THE ALBERT N'YANZA.--ACCOUNT OF ITS DISCOVERY.--INCIDENTS OF THE FIRST
DAY'S VOYAGE.
[Illustration: LAKE SCENE IN CENTRAL AFRICA.]
The _Khedive_ was headed for the western shore of the lake, or rather
she turned her prow in a westerly direction, as she steamed away from
the head of the Bahr-el-Abiad, or White Nile. Doctor Bronson said that
the village Magungo, at the mouth of the Victoria Nile, was not more
than twenty-five miles away in the opposite direction. Frank looked with
his glass, and easily made out the indentation in the shores of the lake
that marked the point where the river flows into the Albert N'yanza.
As they sat on the deck, sheltered by the double awning above them,
Doctor Bronson told his nephew the history of the discovery of the
Albert N'yanza.
"It is very strange," said he, "that only in very recent times has any
one known of the existence of this lake. Some of the negroes had told
the Arab traders who used to come to Gondokoro for ivory that there was
a great body of water a long distance to the south, but their accounts
of it were very much confused; and farthermore, as there was no prospect
that a lake would yield ivory, the traders paid little heed to the
story.
"When Speke and Grant explored the Victoria N'yanza, in 1862, they heard
of this lake, but were not permitted to visit it. Their information was
not altogether clear, but it was sufficient to convince them that there
was a body of water between the Victoria N'yanza and the lakeless Nile.
They left the Somerset River, or Victoria Nile, at Kuruma Falls, a few
miles below the present station of Foueira, and did not see the river
again until they were between the third and fourth parallels of north
latitude. They were then nearly a hundred miles below the point where we
now are, and, of course, there was no place on their route where a
single glimpse of the lake could be obtained.
"On February 15, 1863, they reached Gondokoro, and met Mr. Baker--the
same Sir Samuel or Baker Pacha whom we have occasion to mention so
often--and told him about the undiscovered lake. Baker determined to
reach it if possible; and after a good deal of difficulty he succeeded
in overcoming the scruples of the natives, and persuaded them to guide
him to the mysterious water."
Fred asked if Mr. Baker ascended the main stream of the Nile to its
head, as they had done.
"Not by any means," was the reply. "In the first place, transportation
by water was out of the question, on account of the falls in the river,
and also owing to the absence of suitable boats even for smooth sailing.
Baker pushed southward, by land, over much the same route that Frank has
now taken. He passed the Victoria Nile into the country of Unyoro,
having a long and tedious journey, and finally reached the lake at a
small fishing village on the eastern shore. This village is marked on
the maps as Vacovia. It is of little practical consequence, but will
always be an important spot to geographers.
"It was on March 14, 1864," continued the Doctor, "that Mr. Baker, who
was accompanied by his wife, reached the shore of the new lake at the
village I have mentioned. He gave the name of Albert N'yanza, in honor
of Prince Albert, to this body of water, and the name has been accepted
by all geographers, and will probably be permanent. You may therefore
record in your note-book that Sir Samuel Baker was the first white man
to see the lake, and that the honor of the discovery was shared by Lady
Baker.
"From the point where he saw it the lake appeared to stretch out to a
vast extent to the south and south-west. On the west, or opposite shore
to where he stood, there was a range of mountains whose tallest peaks
were about seven thousand feet in height.
"Baker was unable to explore the lake as he desired. He only made a
voyage by canoes along the coast as far as the mouth of the Victoria
Nile, which he ascended to Murchison Falls. From there he continued his
journey by land, and did not again see the lake. He found the coast
between Vacovia and Magungo bounded by high cliffs, most of them covered
with trees, but frequently so steep that it would have been difficult or
impossible to climb them. In some places they were almost perpendicular.
If you look with your glass you can possibly make out some of these
rocky headlands in the neighborhood of Magungo."
Fred turned his glass in the direction indicated, and could distinctly
see several bold cliffs that seemed to overhang the lake. They extended
to within a few miles of the point where the Nile emerges from the lake,
when they fell off, and gave place to low and at times swampy ground.
"So much for the early history of the Albert N'yanza, which is known to
the natives as the Luta N'zige. It is a hard word to pronounce, but if
you throw 'n' and 'z' into one sound you can possibly manage it. In
default of doing that you may call it 'Ziggee,' or fall back upon
'N'yanza,' which is much easier, and will do just as well; and if you
are very old-fashioned you may drop 'N'yanza,' the African name for
lake, and say you are steaming on Lake Albert, in Central Africa."
[Illustration: SCENE ON THE SHORES OF LAKE TANGANYIKA.]
Fred asked what was the relation between the Albert Lake and Lake
Tanganyika. He had a general idea of the Victoria N'yanza and its
geographical position, but wanted more information about the other.
"We will get to that by-and-by," said the Doctor, in reply. "Tanganyika
is still a mystery, as its outlet has not been fully determined, though
it is pretty definitely settled that it discharges into the Congo, or
Livingstone, and has no connection with the Nile. In fact, the surveys
show that it is at a lower level than the Albert N'yanza, and
consequently cannot flow into it; and as the Nile does not have any
affluent of consequence north of here, it is impossible that roundabout
stream from Tanganyika comes to it. We will talk more about that when we
reach the scenes of the exploits of Livingstone and Stanley."
As they had an abundance of time for circumnavigating the lake and
reaching Magungo on the day appointed for meeting Frank, the Doctor
concluded not to hurry the steamer, but make an early halt. So he told
the captain to land at the first convenient spot, and they would remain
there through the night.
[Illustration: A LAKE VILLAGE.]
It was at least an hour before sundown when the steamer was anchored
near the shore, where a headland pushed out into the lake and afforded
abundant water for safety. The small boat took Doctor Bronson and Fred
to a little village close to the water. It consisted of several huts in
front of a dense growth of papyrus-plants, and with a few palms rising
from the firm ground beyond. The natives were alarmed at the visit of
the strangers, and started to run away. They naturally took the party
for a slave-stealing expedition, and concluded that their only safety
was in flight.
Our friends were accompanied by two soldiers who had been detailed to
remain with them during their voyage, and return with the steamer to its
point of departure. As a matter of precaution, these soldiers went
wherever our friends did; and as they had seen a good deal of service,
and were familiar with many of the African tribes, they were useful in
numerous ways besides serving as escort.
One of them shouted to the people not to run away, as no harm was
intended, and to indicate that their intentions were not hostile, both
the soldiers placed their guns on the ground and held up their empty
hands. This caused the fugitives to pause; and, after some parleying,
they were convinced of the pacific intentions of their visitors, and
signified their willingness to return, provided they received a certain
number of beads and hatchets as a token of friendship.
A few beads and other trinkets had been brought along from the steamer,
but no hatchets. This circumstance was explained, and led to farther
parleying, and finally to the establishment of friendly relations all
round. The people came back to their village, the presents were
delivered, and in a little while everything was harmonious.
[Illustration: LAKE FISHES OF CENTRAL AFRICA.]
Then the natives offered presents in return. They had very little to
give, as they live entirely by fishing, and their gifts were limited to
the products of the lake. Several fishes were brought forward, one of
them an enormous fellow, weighing little if anything less than two
hundred pounds, and having quite a resemblance to the sturgeon of
American waters. One fish was evidently of the perch family, and another
was a near relation of the bull-head, or cat-fish, of the United States.
The natives said it lived in the mud at the bottom of the lake, and was
caught with a long line baited with a piece of another fish, or with a
large worm that abounded in the soil back of their village.
One of the fishes was said to live entirely on vegetable food, and his
jaws were equipped with teeth not unlike those of a sheep. The abundance
of vegetable matter in the lake evidently gave these specimens of the
finny tribe an easy life of it, as they could never be at a loss for
their dinners. As a result they were large and fat, and their shape did
not indicate either speed or power.
"They don't have everything their own way," said the Doctor as Fred was
examining the specimen. "Everything in nature has its uses, and these
vegetable-eating fishes probably furnish the bulk of the food for their
more voracious companions. If it were not so they would soon fill the
lake, as they would have no kind of struggle for existence. But the
other fishes pursue and devour them, so that their numbers are kept
within proper limits.
"Probably the crocodiles find them good eating, and when they fail to
secure any prey on land the water furnishes them with a support."
[Illustration: A FISHERMAN READY FOR WORK.]
Fred noticed that the fishermen were equipped with spears and nets, and
some of them carried bows and arrows. Their modes of fishing were
various, and according to the particular variety of game of which they
were in pursuit. For some kinds they watched at a good place, and either
speared their prey or pierced it with arrows when it came within reach.
Other kinds were taken in nets, others by lines, as we have already
mentioned, and others were caught by being driven into traps. One kind
of fish that always goes in large schools is secured by driving a school
into a trap made of a line of nets fastened to posts, in the same manner
as the nets which were seen by Frank on his way to Foueira.
[Illustration: A FISH-BASKET.]
A strong wind blew from the southward, so that there was quite a sea of
waves breaking on the exposed points of the coast. Doctor Bronson said
it would be inconvenient for them to make their excursion in a canoe, as
Baker had done, since the waves have little respect for the low sides of
the craft, and they would be constantly liable to a drenching. But the
steamer would not be inconvenienced in the least, as she was proof
against any storm that was likely to arise on the lake.
Fred wanted to stay on shore during the night, but the Doctor said there
were several reasons why they should not do so. It would be quite a
task to bring their tents and set up the camp, as everything would need
to be landed with the small boat; besides, it would be safer on board,
since they could never tell what plots the natives might make against
them if they slept on land. "We should need," he continued, "our
soldiers to watch through the night, while on the steamer the ordinary
lookout is quite sufficient for all purposes. So we will return as soon
as the sun touches the horizon, and if we want to land again in the
morning we can easily do so."
When the sun threw its long shadows over the lake our friends returned
to the landing-place, and were soon on board the steamer. After dinner
the watch was set for the night; one man was to be on duty at a time,
and he would be relieved every two hours. The natives were told that
none of their boats must approach the steamer during the night, and for
greater security she was hauled a few hundred yards farther out from
land.
Fred asked if there was any danger.
"No danger whatever, I presume," said the Doctor; "but we never know, as
I before told you, what schemes may be formed for assailing us. We must
always be watchful; and if we take care in advance we may escape a great
deal of trouble. If the natives see that we are always on guard, they
will not be likely to undertake anything in the way of a surprise; but
if they find that we are careless, they are quite likely to take
advantage of our negligence. Bear in mind that the natives of Africa
have no reason to be specially friendly to the white man; beyond the
suppression of the slave-trade, the visits of the stranger have
generally been to the disadvantage of the negro, and the latter knows
it. As he has a good deal of wickedness to the credit of our race, we
need not be surprised if he seeks revenge when the opportunity is
afforded for it.
"In our voyage on the lake we will treat all the people kindly whenever
we meet them, but at the same time we must avoid giving them a chance to
injure us. When we go on shore Ramen and Bash, the two soldiers of our
escort, will always go with us, and will have their guns loaded and
ready for instant use. We will never allow more than four natives on
board the steamer at any one time, no matter what the occasion, and in
this way we will be on the safe side."
Of course Fred readily acquiesced in the Doctor's arrangements for
their safety. He recalled the accounts of previous travellers in Africa,
and found that the rule was by no means a new one. It is the same that
every careful explorer adopts when travelling among barbarous people, no
matter who they are nor what their reputation is. "Never allow yourself
to be surprised, and then you won't be," is the homely way in which one
traveller has clothed the maxim. It sounds a trifle Hibernian, but it
contains a vast amount of solid common-sense.
Our friends slept undisturbed through the night. The captain reported in
the morning that two boats came near the steamer about mid-night; but as
they did not stop or show the least sign of hostility, it was not deemed
worth while to hail them. Soon after daylight several canoes came off
from the village and surrounded the steamer; each canoe carried from
four to eight or ten persons, among them several women and a few
children. The presence of the women and children was indicative of
peace, but the rule of allowing only four natives on board at once was
not relaxed.
[Illustration: A VILLAGE CHIEF.]
After a while the sound of a drum was heard, and a boat larger than the
rest made its appearance. Ramen said it was the head-man of the village
coming to pay his respects; and in order to prepare for his reception
the natives then on board were sent to their canoes, and no others were
allowed to take their places.
The boat with the village chief came along-side, and the stairs were let
down, so that he could easily reach the deck. He desired to bring a
dozen or more of his followers, and they were equally desirous of
coming; but the chief was informed that the steamer was small, and there
was no room for more than three besides himself. He knew the actual
reason for the refusal, but accepted at once the explanation that had
been given, and ascended the steps.
[Illustration: NATIVE HEADS.]
He was a well-formed negro, about forty years of age, wearing only a
strip of cloth about the waist, and carrying a slender bow, which he
used for killing fish. He kept the bow in his hand as he came on board
the steamer, but was polite enough to leave his arrows behind. His hair
was less curly than is usual with the African; it was liberally oiled,
and a small part of it was gathered in a knot or club at the back of his
head. A similar knot was formed under his chin by the scanty beard that
grew there, and his mouth was shaded by a short mustache; altogether,
his features had quite a European cast, and Fred pronounced him a man of
intelligence, who evidently had a good deal of ferocity when occasion
required or permitted.
The chief was shown around the boat; and, as he had never seen anything
of the kind before, he evinced much astonishment. He regarded the
compass with considerable reverence, and pointed to the charms which
hung upon his breast; evidently he believed they were as potent as the
devices of the white man, or at all events of the same character, and it
was not deemed worth the while to explain the compass to him. The
engines puzzled him greatly, and he was quite unable to understand how
they could be moved by hot water. He looked over the stern at the
propeller, and, after studying it for some time, the idea dawned upon
him.
Making a waving motion with his hand, he pronounced the native word for
"fish."
Fred nodded, and the negro grinned with delight to think he had
understood the operation of the propeller.
He was invited to sit on a chair, but preferred the deck, as a more
comfortable resting-place. He sat there for several minutes while coffee
was brought; he drank eagerly several cups in succession, and ate some
of the English biscuits that were offered. The cups hit his fancy, and
he begged for one of them; but as the supply was limited he was not
accommodated. The Doctor brought out his rifle, and fired two or three
shots in rapid succession, to show how quickly the weapon could be
operated; the result was that the chief shook his head, as if in doubt
whether the gun was of human or diabolic workmanship.
The final sensation was created with an explosive shell. For a few beads
the Doctor bought a large fish that had been brought along-side, and
instructed the natives, through the interpreter, to place it on a raft
of reeds, and tow it about a hundred yards from the steamer and there
leave it.
When they had done as he directed, and retired to a safe distance, he
fired an explosive shell into the body of the fish.
The shell burst as it struck and tore the fish into a shapeless mass.
The chief didn't wish to see anything more of the white man's works, but
retired hastily to his boat. He would hardly wait for the presents which
had been brought out for him, and he took them with a good deal of
reluctance, as though afraid they would blow up and destroy him.
[Illustration: ON THE SHORE OF THE LAKE.]