AN ELEPHANT HUNT.--MARCHING SOUTHWARD FROM GONDOKORO.
There was enough to do and see at Gondokoro and in the neighborhood to
occupy several days, but our friends were not the less mindful of the
necessity for departure. Doctor Bronson consulted Colonel Abd-el-Kader
on the subject, and was soon able to lay before the youths a
satisfactory plan for their future movements.
"Above here," said the Doctor, "we cannot go with the steamer, on
account of the rapids in the river, that render it impassable for any
but the smallest boats. The Nile becomes narrower, and the hills close
in upon it so that it does not at all resemble the Nile of Lower Egypt
and Nubia. It has the characteristics of a river flowing among
mountains, and in the places where the fall is insufficient to create a
rapid or cataract the stream is anything but a sluggish one.
[Illustration: THE NILE BELOW AFUDDO.]
"The rapids occur at intervals for a distance of about a hundred and
twenty miles above Gondokoro by land, and perhaps a hundred and fifty by
the course of the stream. Then we come to a place known as Afuddo by the
natives, and also by geographers, though the latter generally speak of
it as 'Miani's Tree.'"
"Why does it have the latter name?" one of the youths asked.
"Because," was the reply, "it was the point reached by Miani, an Italian
traveller, who explored this part of Central Africa, and was driven back
by the natives through the intrigues of the slave-traders. He returned
despondent to Khartoum, and subsequently undertook an exploration of the
Bahr-el-Ghazal, where he died. It is a great misfortune that he perished
before the history of his explorations had been given to the world, as
he had visited regions hitherto unexplored by any traveller.
[Illustration: A NYAM-NYAM GIRL.]
"Miani penetrated the country of the Nyam-Nyam dwarfs, and brought away
two specimens of that curious race. I happened to be in Cairo at the
time of their arrival. They were sent there after Miani's death, and
were subsequently forwarded by the Khedive, Ismail, to the King of
Italy, the sovereign of the dead explorer. They were perfectly-formed
and adult men, but little more than four feet in height. A Dinka negro
who accompanied them said he had been in the country of the dwarfs, and
very few of the inhabitants were taller than the ones we were
examining.[4]
[4] In the spring of 1874, through the courtesy of Ismail, Khedive, the
author had the opportunity of seeing the two dwarfs mentioned above.
"Above Afuddo, or Miani's Tree," said the Doctor, "the rapids come to an
end, and the Nile is navigable to its exit from the Albert N'yanza.
There is one place in the rapids where the river is narrowed to a
hundred yards, and the water dashes along so furiously as to threaten
destruction to any craft that ventures upon it. At certain stages of the
river boats may pass with the current, but it is quite impossible to
make headway against it.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF THE LAKE.]
"The point where the Nile becomes navigable again is in latitude 3° 32'
north, near the mouth of the Asua River. It is less than a hundred miles
from there to the lake, and the river flows through a beautiful and
populous country.
"Suppose the Soudan railway was finished, and in operation from Wady
Halfa to Khartoum, see how easily we could open navigation into the
heart of Africa," said the Doctor, rising as he spoke, and pointing
toward the south.
[Illustration: NYAM-NYAM WARRIORS.]
"From Khartoum to Gondokoro the Nile is navigable, as we have just
demonstrated by making the journey on a steamboat. A railway of a
hundred and twenty miles, from Gondokoro to Afuddo, would bring us to
the point where the Nile is navigable to the Albert N'yanza, and another
railway, of less than a hundred miles, would connect the Victoria
N'yanza with the Albert N'panza. Thus the interior of Africa could be
opened up to travel and commerce by steam by the construction of two
hundred and odd miles of railway, in addition to the Soudan line.
"But we haven't the railway along with us at present," he remarked as he
resumed his chair, "and must put up with the means at our command. They
are primitive in their character, but others have managed with them, and
so can we."
Frank asked how their baggage would be carried from Gondokoro, as they
would not be able to follow the river, on account of the rapids.
"We must have it carried by men," the Doctor answered, "and here will
begin our experience with African porters."
"They have camels and elephants in abundance in Africa," said Fred, "and
it seems strange that they rely upon human muscle for transporting their
burdens. When camels are so abundant lower down I wonder they don't have
them here; besides, we are in the land where the elephant runs wild in
the woods, and is never domesticated, as he is in Asia. Is there any
reason why they shouldn't use him?"
"The African elephant is much fiercer than the Asiatic," was the reply,
"but there is no good reason why he should not be tamed and used like
his brother in Hindostan. African elephants were domesticated in ancient
times, and even in the present century they have taken kindly to
captivity. The famous 'Jumbo,' which has been the delight of children in
England and America, is an African elephant, and he was captured when
very young. You can readily know an African elephant from an Asiatic one
by his ears; they are at least three times as large, and the lower point
reaches to his leg. On a large elephant of the African variety the ear
will be five feet long by four in width. In South Africa it is sometimes
used as a sledge, and serves its purpose admirably."
[Illustration: ELEPHANT COMING TO DRINK.]
The conversation was interrupted by Abdul, who came to announce a herd
of elephants coming down to the river, a little above the town. They had
evidently been disturbed by the natives, and were endeavoring to find a
place of safety.
Doctor Bronson seized his elephant rifle, which had only been unpacked
the day before, and started without a moment's delay. Abdul followed
with the ammunition-case, and the two boys accompanied the Doctor.
Outside the camp they were passed by Colonel Abd-el-Kader on horseback,
on his way to take a shot at the huge game. The colonel dashed on ahead
of them, and was at the bank of the river when they were little more
than half the distance.
The soldiers came running from the camp, and the elephants took the
alarm and tried to turn on their tracks; but they found themselves
surrounded and their retreat cut off. Their only way of escape was by
swimming the river to an island about a hundred and forty yards away.
They were all fine old elephants, and each one a "tusker," so that they
would be valuable prizes to their captors.
Following their leader, they dashed into the water before either of the
hunters was within shooting distance. The colonel dismounted from his
horse just as the last of the herd entered the river. The elephant swims
so low that no vulnerable part of him is exposed, and therefore the
hunters could only stand and wait till the frightened animals had
reached the opposite bank.
[Illustration: ELEPHANTS HUNTED IN THE WATER.]
Fortune was against the elephants, as the bank was so steep that they
could not climb it, but were obliged to break it away by digging with
their tusks and feet. They are accustomed to this sort of thing, and in
a little while had broken away great masses of the earth and formed a
sloping ascent up which they could climb. The delay gave the colonel and
Doctor Bronson a chance to get their weapons in readiness, and as the
first of the elephants emerged from the river the colonel took a shot at
him.
The bullet took effect in the animal's head, causing him to turn partly
around and expose his side to the Doctor. The latter took instant
advantage of the position and fired. The elephant fell into the water
and floated down the stream.
The second elephant that climbed the bank was served in the same way,
but it took five bullets to bring him down instead of two. The distance
was too far for good work, and the third elephant escaped without
serious injury, as he did not present a good mark. The colonel's rifle
became unserviceable on account of the sticking of a cartridge; the
Doctor found his shoulder considerably bruised by the recoil, and
concluded that two elephants were quite enough for one morning's work.
However, he tried another shot at the third elephant, and by this time
the herd had broken the bank sufficiently to allow them to mount the
land and make their best paces for the woods.
Frank asked the Doctor why he did not keep on firing till the last of
the herd had gone.
"Well," replied that gentleman, "an elephant rifle is no toy to handle,
and two or three shots in rapid succession are about as much as one
desires. Sir Samuel Baker had a similar experience with a herd of
elephants, and was quite satisfied with a couple of prizes. He says that
his rifle was sure to kill an elephant when fired at short range, and
half kill the man that held it. Once his rifle was thrown out of his
hands a distance of several yards by the force of the recoil, and an
Arab hunter who tried to use it had his collar-bone broken by the blow."
The attention of the party was now turned to securing the carcasses of
the slaughtered elephants. They were floating down the stream with the
current, and men were sent with ropes and boats to bring them to land.
This was not a work of great difficulty, though it required much
expenditure of muscle, as the bodies were large and unwieldy. The body
of the elephant floats on the water, while that of the hippopotamus
sinks as soon as it is killed; but it rises again in a few hours, when
the gases within have distended the stomach.
Crowds of natives had flocked to the river and witnessed the slaughter,
and they lent ready hands to the soldiers to secure the prizes. They are
very fond of the flesh of the elephant, and the work of the morning gave
them sure promise of an abundant feast.
"We will have an African dinner such as you have never tasted," the
Doctor remarked as they returned from the hunt.
"What is that?" one of the youths asked.
"We will have an elephant's foot roasted, _à la Afrique_." was the
reply. "As soon as the cook is ready you may see how it is prepared."
The tusks of the elephants were secured, and also the feet. Colonel
Abd-el-Kader offered two of the tusks to Doctor Bronson as his share of
the proceeds of the chase, but the latter politely declined them, and
said he and the boys would be content with three of the smaller teeth,
which they could keep as souvenirs. The soldiers took as much of the red
flesh of the animals as they desired for their cooking-pots, and then
left the rest for the natives. The colonel took one of the feet, the
Doctor another, and the others were given to the officers of the
garrison. The Doctor explained to the boys that the foot of the elephant
is considered the finest part of the animal, and regarded as a great
delicacy by all African epicures.
The boys went with Abdul to witness the preparations for cooking their
dinner. Herewith we give the account which Frank made of the
performance:
"A hole was dug about three feet deep; over this they kindled a fire of
reeds and bushes, and kept it burning at a great rate for two hours or
more. By this time the hole was full of hot ashes and embers, and the
ground around it was heated to a high degree. Then the foot of the
elephant was thrown into the hole and some of the ashes were raked over
it; another fire was kindled above it, and was kept up for two or three
hours longer.
"All through the afternoon there was a mass of hot embers and ashes
around and over that elephant's foot, which did as good work as the best
oven ever invented. Dinner was served about five o'clock, and came
smoking hot to the table. The coals and ashes were raked away, and the
new style of roast joint was found to be cooked to perfection. The skin
was removed by chopping with a hatchet, and revealed something
resembling the interior of a game-pie, but not so dark in color. The
muscles of the foot had a gelatinous character, and the action of the
heat had cooked them to a condition of tenderness which made them very
toothsome.
"There is no civilized dish to which we can compare it, and therefore we
must adopt Fred's suggestion, to let the elephant's foot stand alone. We
had some doubts at first, but have none at present; our appetites are
appeased, and when we next secure an elephant in our hunting excursions
we shall dine on his feet."
Over the dinner-table the consideration of the route to the south was
resumed.
"The colonel tells me," said Doctor Bronson, "that a detachment of
soldiers is about to leave Gondokoro for Foueira, on the banks of the
Victoria Nile. We can go with it to that point, or we can stop at
Afuddo, where there is a station, garrisoned by a company of soldiers,
under command of a captain. You remember that when Baker Pacha came with
his expedition he brought a steamer in sections, which he intended for
the navigation of the Albert N'yanza.
"Owing to the impossibility of securing the necessary carriers Baker was
unable to transport his steamer to Afuddo, and returned without
accomplishing this part of his mission. But his successor, Colonel
Gordon (Gordon Pacha), had better luck, and early in 1876 the steamer
and two iron life-boats were launched on the waters of the White Nile
above the last rapids. On the 8th of March of that year Mr. Gessi, one
of Gordon's officers, started with the steamer and the two iron boats
and ascended to the lake.
"The boat was named the _Khedive_, in honor of the ruler of Egypt. It
was a craft of one hundred and eight tons and twenty horse power, and
will ever be memorable as the first steam-propelled vessel on the lakes
of Central Africa.
"With these boats Mr. Gessi explored the lake, which he reported about
one hundred and forty miles long by fifty in width, containing numerous
islands, and bounded by magnificent forests. It is shallow on the
southern shore, where the country is flat, but on the west the land is
mountainous and the water deep. The little fleet went to Magungo, on the
eastern shore, where the Victoria Nile empties into the lake, twenty-two
miles below Murchison Falls. Afterward the steamer ascended the river to
the foot of the falls, finding plenty of water and easy navigation. The
flag of Egypt was hoisted at Magungo, and the country was occupied in
the name of the Khedive.
[Illustration: THE NAVIGABLE NILE ABOVE THE LAST CATARACTS.]
"Now," the Doctor continued, "the fleet of Mr. Gessi is at the mouth of
the Asua River, or rather at Afuddo, and the colonel says it is at our
service, provided we pay the expenses of running the steamer. We can go
with the detachment of troops that I have mentioned, and they will be
necessary to protect us through the hostile country which lies between
Gondokoro and Afuddo. But at that place we will not need its care any
longer, as the natives are friendly, though it will be well for us to
retain a small escort, to guard against accidents. He will arrange for
the escort, and there is no doubt that the captain of the post at Afuddo
will give us all the aid we need.
"There is one disadvantage in going with the detachment instead of
venturing out alone: carriers are not easily procured in large numbers.
We shall want at least a hundred for ourselves and our baggage, while
the detachment of soldiers will need at least twice that number. Three
hundred men are not always to be had by calling for them, while a single
hundred might be easily procured. I told you before we left Cairo that
the carrier question was the most troublesome one for an African
explorer, and you must make your minds up to be patient and submit
cheerfully to delays, if they must and will come."
Both the youths agreed that they would emulate the example of Job and
refrain from grumbling, however great the provocation. With this
understanding the party broke up, and its members were soon in bed. It
was the fashion to retire early in Gondokoro, so as to be up with the
first blush of morning and enjoy the cool hours of the day.
The colonel sent out men to hire carriers, but there were few to be had.
It looked as though the travellers might be indefinitely delayed at the
outset; and just as they were beginning to feel uneasy a caravan arrived
from Foueira, with four hundred porters, bringing loads of ivory and
other interior products.
Here was a piece of good-fortune! The porters were not wanted any longer
by their employers, and it took only a short time to arrange for them to
carry the baggage of the entire party to Afuddo and Foueira, after they
had been allowed a couple of days to be paid off and to rest from their
fatigues. The time was spent in getting the loads in readiness, and on
the morning of the third day the long and mixed procession started on
its way.
[Illustration: SADDLE-DONKEYS.]
About half the soldiers were in advance, and the rest brought up the
rear. Between them, and stretching over a long distance, was the line of
porters with their loads, the commander of the detachment on horseback,
and our three friends similarly mounted. The three horses had been
bought at a high price by the Doctor, who had also secured as many
donkeys. It was decided that the latter would make acceptable mounts in
case of accident to the larger animals, and in the mean time they could
be ridden by Abdul and Ali, or made useful for carrying baggage.
The families of the soldiers made quite a crowd by themselves. It is the
custom of the soldier in Africa to be accompanied by his wife, except on
the most difficult marches; and though the European officers in the
Khedive's service have protested repeatedly, they have never been able
to break it up. Altogether the procession extended a mile or more, and
appeared powerful enough to take care of itself against any ordinary
enemy.
[Illustration: MARCHING THROUGH THE BARI COUNTRY.]
An important part of the procession was a drove of cattle. Frank called
it the purse of the expedition, as the animals were intended to be used
in payment of the services of the porters, as well as for supplying beef
on the road. As before stated, they are the circulating medium in
certain parts of Africa, and when frightened and at full speed they
_circulate_ with great rapidity. They have the faculty of disappearing
as easily as the bank-notes and coins of more civilized countries, and,
like them, may be regarded as blessings that brighten as they take their
flight.
The cattle gave some trouble to their drivers, and not infrequently
broke up the line of march by dashing across it and scattering the
travellers in all directions. The horns of the beasts were not pleasant
objects to contemplate, especially at the moments when there was a
prospect of being impaled on them.
The country became quite rough as the column advanced, and in a few
hours after their departure from Gondokoro the travellers found
themselves among mountains two or three thousand feet high. Frequently
they came to ravines, and it was in these places that delays were caused
by the cattle, as they could not be driven rapidly. The camp was made
after a march of about ten miles. The tents were pitched under some
wide-spreading trees, and Frank remarked what a pity it was the trees
could not be induced to march along with them, for the grateful shelter
they would afford against the heat of the sun at noon.
The natives had hovered in the vicinity of the line of march in order to
secure any one of the herd of cattle that might stray from its keepers.
But no such good-fortune befell them, as the herd preserved its
integrity during the entire day, and was driven to the temporary
_zeriba_ for protection during the night.
According to the custom of African travellers all the baggage was piled
in front of the tents of the owners, and the boxes and bales were
carefully counted before the porters were dismissed. This is an
important requirement, and the traveller who neglects it even for a
single occasion is liable to be the victim of plunder. The boxes
containing the rifles, ammunition, and the most precious articles should
be housed within the tents, and only the ordinary freight left outside.
Even there a guard is always placed over it, and the greatest
watchfulness is constantly needed.
[Illustration: CAMP SCENE.]