LIFE IN KHARTOUM.--DEPARTURE FOR GONDOKORO.
From Shendy to Khartoum there was little change of landscape. The
country increased in fertility, and Abdul informed the travellers that
they were every hour getting farther into the region of periodical
rains. The grasses grew without irrigation, and, only the strip of land
near the river, where beans and other garden products were raised,
required artificial watering. The people keep large flocks of sheep and
goats, and our friends had practical knowledge of this fact in the ease
with which they could purchase mutton at the landing-places. Mountains
appeared in the distance, and were a great relief to the eye after the
flat and wearisome plains.
Frank and Fred were watching for the junction of the Blue and White
Nile. Before coming in sight of the point where the rivers unite they
became aware of its proximity by the appearance of the water. The White
Nile was of a grayish color, while the other stream was several degrees
darker in hue. Doctor Bronson said he was reminded of the confluence of
the Ohio with the Mississippi, or of the latter river with the Missouri.
There is an island just below the point of land where Khartoum is built,
and boats may pass from one river to the other above this island. There
is usually very little current through the channel, so that the actual
junction is considerably farther down.
[Illustration: ARRIVAL AT KHARTOUM.]
The man at the helm directed the steamer up the Blue Nile, and turned
her prow toward a stone embankment in front of several large buildings.
There were two or three groups of these buildings, and as the boat
steamed onward Abdul described them to the strangers. "On the left,"
said he, "is the Governor's palace, and close by it are the residences
of the principal officials; to the right are other government buildings,
and then farther away are the habitations of the foreign consuls and
other persons of distinction. The front of Khartoum is more attractive
than the interior, and if you want to retain the best impression of the
place you would do well not to go on shore at all."
This did not suit the desires of our young friends, and they declined
asking the captain of the boat to pass Khartoum without stopping.
Probably he would have laughed at the request, or gravely referred it to
the commanding officer on shore.
The steamer stopped at the foot of the stone embankment, and as soon as
the plank was out the three travellers mounted the steps to the top of
the low bluff. Abdul and Ali remained to look after the baggage and
arrange for its storage, while Doctor Bronson went to call upon Mr.
Jenquel, a German merchant, to whom he had letters of introduction. Mr.
Jenquel was out at the time; but his partner received the strangers
kindly, and speedily arranged for their being comfortably lodged during
their stay. There is no hotel at Khartoum, and travellers are obliged to
hire lodgings or accept the hospitality of the few Europeans living in
the place.
They took a stroll through Khartoum in company with their new-found
friend, and saw many things to attract their attention. The street near
the river was well shaded with palm and other trees, and they passed
several gardens of citron and orange trees, whose fruit seemed to invite
immediate plucking and devouring. They found the older part of the town
made up of narrow and crooked streets, and had several narrow escapes
from being knocked down by camels that moved along the way as if it
belonged to no one but themselves. After dodging several times to
avoid the ponderous beasts Frank asked where they came from, and what
they were carrying.
"They are mostly from the Atmoor, or desert of Korosko," was the reply,
"and their burdens consist of European goods intended for the African
market."
"These goods are about the same as we are carrying for paying our way in
Africa," said the Doctor. "Cotton cloths, beads, knives, small tools,
and a lot of toys and gewgaws constitute the staple of African supplies.
The merchants in Khartoum fit out the wandering traders, and send them
into the interior for ivory, gum, ostrich feathers, and the other
products of the country that will bear a high rate of transportation.
The chief article is ivory, and the trade of Khartoum sometimes amounts
to a million dollars a year in ivory alone. Latterly it is said to have
declined, owing to the diminished number of elephants and the difficulty
of capturing them.
[Illustration: ELEPHANTS AT HOME--SHAKING A FRUIT-TREE.]
"From present indications," the Doctor continued, "the elephant seems
destined to follow the fate of the buffalo in America and disappear
before many years. Formerly he was pursued only by the natives, who were
unprovided with fire-arms and relied upon their spears and arrows, and
also on pitfalls and other rude contrivances. His sagacity enables him
to elude the latter, except in rare instances, and his great strength
was in favor of his safety from primitive weapons. But since the white
man has entered the field, and especially since the invention of rifles
that kill at long distances, and carry explosive bullets, the days of
the elephant are numbered. Strength and sagacity are of little avail
against modern weapons and their murderous accessories, and if the
elephant survives the American bison, it is only because the African
continent has been settled more slowly than our own.
"If you look on the map you will see that Khartoum is at the end of the
caravan route from Kordofan and Darfoor; consequently some of the camels
you have been dodging may have come from those countries as well as from
the desert of Korosko. Then there is the route by the river, both south
and north, and also along the Blue Nile. It is the intention of the
Egyptian government to bring the Soudan railway to Khartoum, and it is
not impossible that a decade or so hence we may travel in a Pullman car
from Cairo to the spot where we are now standing."[3]
[3] Since writing the above the author has received a letter from the
American Consul-general at Cairo, in which it is stated that in
consequence of the insurrection in the Soudan provinces the English
government has been called upon to act with Egypt in restoring the
authority of the latter country. Foreseeing the great difficulties in
carrying troops and stores across the Desert to Khartoum, England is
seriously considering the question of a railway between Suakim, on the
Red Sea, and Berber, on the Nile. In addition to its political
importance, the line would have great commercial advantages, as it would
afford an outlet for the rich region between Khartoum and the equatorial
lakes.
"Just think of it!" exclaimed Fred; "riding by railway to Central
Africa, only fifteen degrees north of the equator, and in the land of
elephants and crocodiles!"
His meditations were brought suddenly to an end by an encounter with
another string of camels, followed by several negroes, who were closely
watched by a swarthy Arab, armed with a large whip.
[Illustration: PROFILES OF DINKA NEGROES.]
"Those men are slaves," whispered their guide; "though the Arab in
charge of them would declare he knew nothing about them if you should
ask him. They come from the southern country, and are of the tribe of
Dinka negroes. The Dinkas are greatly liked as slaves, and bring a
higher price than those from other tribes.
"You see they are not tied together, or in any way restrained; but if
they should try to run away they would get some sharp blows of the whip,
and the Arabs that are loitering about would hinder their escape. The
police would not interfere to assist either party. The slave has few
friends, while all the Arabs are interested in keeping up the commerce,
and are therefore the natural enemies of the captive.
[Illustration: BRINGING A SLAVE TO MARKET.]
"When the slave caravans are on the road the men and women are tied
together, and frequently have wooden yokes around their necks, to keep
them from running away. Carrying these heavy burdens, they move with
difficulty, and their strength is so much exhausted that they are
completely under the control of their captors."
A couple of hours among the narrow streets of the old part of Khartoum,
where their nostrils were constantly assailed by vile smells from the
wretched drains, were quite enough for our friends, and they returned to
the river bank. Their guide told them that the city was notoriously
unhealthy, owing to its bad drainage. It had been fatal to a great many
Europeans, and of late years the government had endeavored to remedy the
evil, but had not succeeded altogether. The population is a mixed lot of
Arabs, Turks, Jews, Berbers, negroes, and Europeans. The latter are
principally Greeks and Italians, engaged in selling European products to
the native merchants, and some of them keep small shops for vending
spirits and canned edibles.
Altogether, Khartoum has a population of about thirty thousand, and is
said to be steadily increasing with the growth of trade in Central
Africa. Before the destruction of Shendy it was a place of little
importance; but when the capital of the Soudan was transferred to
Khartoum, in 1822, it rose rapidly in importance, and has been greatly
helped by its geographical position.
Returning to the establishment of Mr. Jenquel, they found that
gentleman, who received them cordially, and said they must dine at his
house, which was a short distance from his place of business. Dinner
would be ready in an hour, and meanwhile he would show them how he lived
in Khartoum.
They went to the house at once, and their host said they might take his
dwelling for a fair specimen of the best class of houses in Khartoum. It
stood in a yard or garden about five hundred feet square, and surrounded
by a mud wall eight or nine feet high, and nearly half as thick. The
house was nearly two hundred feet square, with a court-yard in the
centre; the part of the building nearest the entrance was two stories
high, but the remainder was only one story. Stairways are objectionable
in hot countries, as the exertion of climbing is too much for human
endurance, and elevators have not yet penetrated into Africa. The upper
story was occupied by Mr. Jenquel and his amiable wife, while the
ground-floor contained the dining-room and two or three apartments for
visitors, together with the kitchen and the quarters of the servants.
All the rooms were large and airy, and were fitted partly in European
and partly in Arab style. There was a wide balcony surrounding the upper
story, and it formed an agreeable lounging-place in the coolest hours of
the day.
Mrs. Jenquel proved to be a most charming lady, who spoke German and
English with equal fluency. She had been only a short time in Khartoum,
and was evidently not over-charmed with the place. She said there were
only two European ladies besides herself in the city. There were no
theatres, balls, parties, or other amusements, and altogether there was
a great deal of monotony in the life she led. It was a relief to her
when strangers came to visit them, and she welcomed with delight the
presence of Doctor Bronson and the intelligent youths who accompanied
him.
Dinner was served in European style, the principal dish being roast
mutton, preceded by soup and fish--the latter a species of salmon from
the Blue Nile--and followed by a liberal supply of fruits. Among the
latter were delicious oranges from the garden of the host, together with
tamarinds, dates, custard-apples, and grapes. Our friends had made the
acquaintance of the custard-apple in India, and found the product of
Khartoum in no way inferior to that of Asia.
Abdul came to announce that their lodgings were ready, and the baggage
had been carefully landed and stored as previously arranged. When the
proper time arrived they said "good-night" to their kind entertainers,
and followed the dragoman to the house that had been secured for them.
[Illustration: TREES NEAR THE RIVER.]
It was not unlike the residence of Mr. Jenquel, though considerably
smaller, and belonged to a merchant, who had gone to Cairo on business,
and was not averse to the occupation of his house by suitable tenants
during his absence. Half a dozen servants remained in charge, so that
Doctor Bronson and the boys found themselves comfortably lodged, and as
much at home as though the place was their own. Abdul was installed as
chief manager, and the promise of a liberal backsheesh made everything
right with the regular servants of the house.
The party remained nearly two weeks at Khartoum, as the preparations for
departure could not be made in a hurry. They were now at the last
outpost of civilization, and their next move would carry them into the
wilderness. The boys readily fell into their new life, and were very
soon as familiar with Khartoum as though they had resided there a decade
or two.
They rose early every morning, and were generally off by sunrise for a
ride in the country around Khartoum. Sometimes they were mounted on
horses which Abdul had hired from a merchant who kept a large stable
close to their residence, and sometimes on camels, that were readily
procured from one of the encampments of the caravans. They found the
horses less fatiguing than the "ships of the desert;" but occasionally
they were treated to half-wild steeds, exceedingly hard on the bit, and
having a strong tendency to run away with their young riders. One
morning they had a lively run of nearly two hours on the broad plain
south of Khartoum, their horses going at full gallop, and evidently in
the mood for exercise. When they came to pull up their restive beasts
they were nearly thrown from the saddles; and Frank said he could see no
indications that his horse was wearied from the long race. Abdul said
the horses came from Darfoor, and were anxious to get back again. They
were fine animals, and worthy of all the praise bestowed by the Arabs on
their favorite steeds. Fred afterward read the account which Bayard
Taylor gives of his ride over this very plain, when he left his
attendants far behind, though they were mounted on swift dromedaries,
and made every exertion to keep close at his heels. The youth was
decidedly of opinion that the animal he rode in the race with his cousin
was in every respect the equal of the famous red stallion of the
Austrian consul.
[Illustration: VIEW NEAR THE EDGE OF THE TOWN.]
The middle of the day was generally passed within doors, on account of
the heat; the afternoon was devoted to business and visits, if any were
to be made, and to walks in the town or along the banks of the two
rivers which have their place of meeting just below the city. Then there
were letters and journals to be written, maps to be studied, books to be
read, and in various ways the time slipped pleasantly away.
Fortunately for our friends, it happened that a government steamer was
about to leave Khartoum with despatches for the Governor of the post at
Gondokoro. By means of a telegram from the authorities at Cairo, and the
judicious use of backsheesh in certain quarters, it was arranged that
Doctor Bronson's party could take passage on this steamer. There was
some difficulty about the baggage, as the captain of the boat (an
Egyptian Arab) said it was impossible to carry it in addition to what
was already ordered on government account.
[Illustration: PREPARING DINNER.]
Abdul invited the captain to dine with him, and the dinner was the best
that could be prepared. It lasted until a late hour. Before it was over
the whole matter was arranged, and the captain said he would carry the
baggage of the party, even if he was obliged to stow it in his own room.
The conversation was in Arabic, and we are therefore unable to say how
the business was settled; but as Abdul excused himself once during the
dinner, and asked the Doctor for five hundred francs in gold, it is fair
to suppose that the negotiations were not unconnected with backsheesh.
As they steamed away from Khartoum, Abdul said their solitary boat was
quite a contrast to the fleet of Baker Pacha when he started from the
same point for his famous expedition to suppress the slave-trade.
[Illustration: BAKER'S EXPEDITION LEAVING KHARTOUM.]
"Baker's expedition, as I before told you," said Abdul, "had two
steamers and thirty-six sailing boats; and each of the steamers had a
couple of dahabeeahs, or sailing-boats, in tow. It was a grand sight as
we swept past the town, the steamers leading, with their tows, and the
sailing-craft driving ahead with the strong north wind. Salutes were
fired from the batteries in front of the palace, and the decks of our
boats were crowded with men watching till the single minaret of Khartoum
was lost in the distance.
"The steamers pushed on with their tows, leaving the rest of the fleet
to follow, and made the best of their way to Fashoda, the government
post in the Shillook country, six hundred and eighteen miles by the
river from Khartoum. Fashoda is the first place where we shall stop,
except to take in wood for our engines, unless we meet with an accident
that is not down in our programme."
Frank and Fred watched the example of the soldiers of Baker's expedition
and kept their eyes on the minaret of Khartoum till it faded and was
blended with the horizon. Then they turned to look at the country around
them.
Their prow was pointed to the south, save where the windings of the
river caused a temporary change of their course. The shores on either
side were low, and generally flat, with here and there clumps of trees
and little patches of grass. They were still in the region of the
desert, but it was not altogether barren, like the great Atmoor of
Korosko. Flocks of ducks and geese flew in the air or settled in the
nooks along the shore; and now and then the ibis, the sacred bird of the
Egyptians, showed his tall form on the sand-banks. Occasionally a
crocodile lay basking in the sun, or the snort of a startled
hippopotamus would be heard close to the boat.
In the night the clear sky was studded with stars, and the youths
lingered long on deck, studying the various constellations. The north
star was nearly sunk to the horizon behind them, while in front the
Southern Cross sparkled in all its glory, and recalled memories of their
voyage from Singapore into the Java Sea. Once more they were approaching
the equator, but with far greater difficulties before them.
The steamboat held her course during the night, and in the morning our
friends opened their eyes on a change of scene.
[Illustration: A VILLAGE SCENE.]
The monotonous plain had been left behind, and they were in a region of
hills. More than this, the region was no longer a desert. The hills were
studded with trees, and on the banks of the river there was a succession
of forests and cultivated fields, quite unlike the picture presented
below Khartoum. Droves of cattle and flocks of sheep and goats were
numerous, and the conical huts of the natives had no resemblance to the
flat-roofed dwellings of Lower Egypt.
Occasionally a train of camels was visible, wending its stately way
along, and making a sharp contrast to the droves of diminutive donkeys
peculiar to this part of the Nile. Where the boat went close to the
banks the boys several times discovered monkeys playing among the
branches of the trees, and Frank would have made no objection if they
had halted long enough to capture one of the amusing beasts. A
mountain-range appeared in the distance; the vegetation steadily
increased in luxuriance; and the boys became fully aware that they were
nearing THE HEART OF AFRICA.
[Illustration: THE HEART OF AFRICA.]