WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN
In the mode of travel here to be considered the voyageur, equipped
with snowshoes, hauls his provisions and entire camping paraphernalia
upon a toboggan or flat sled. The toboggan (Indian ta´-bas-kan´)
had its origin in the prehistoric past among the Algonquin Indians
of northeastern America. It was designed by them for the purpose of
transporting goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes where sleds
with runners could not be used, and for this purpose it is unequaled.
While for our purpose the conventionalized toboggan sold by outfitters
and designed for hill sliding and general sport will answer very
well, the wilderness model in use by Indians and trappers in our
northern wilderness is a better designed and preferable type for the
transportation of loads.
Various lengths of toboggans are in use, each intended for the
particular purpose for which it was built. The longest Indian toboggan
I ever saw was twelve feet in length, but from six to eight feet is the
ordinary length, with a width of nine inches at the tip of the curved
nose, gradually increasing to fourteen inches wide where the curve ends
and the sliding surface or bottom begins, and tapering away to about
six inches wide at the heel. The conventionalized type averages from
four to six feet in length with a uniform width of about fifteen inches
from curve to heel.
Some three or more crossbars, depending upon the length of the
toboggan, are lashed at intervals across the top, the forward one at
the beginning of the curve where the nose begins to turn upward, and on
either side of the toboggan from front to rear side bar, and fastened
to the side bars at their ends are side ropes.
Beaver-tail, bear's-paw, or swallow-tail snowshoes, of Indian make, are
the shapes best adapted to the sort of travel we are considering. These
models are all broad and comparatively short. The web should be of good
caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon dry snow, and indeed for
all-around conditions. While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may in
some respects be preferable it will not compare in efficiency with the
close web on loose snow, or for all-around work under all sorts of
conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may be very good for racing where
the country is smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, wooded or
broken country or to hummocky snow.
The best and most practical, as well as the simplest sling or binding
for the snowshoe is made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned buckskin
a thong about half an inch wide and thirty inches in length. Thread
one end of this, from above down, through the web at one side of the
toe hole, and from the bottom up at the opposite side. Pull it through
until the two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the middle, where
it crosses the toe hole, to make a loop large enough to admit the toe
under it, but not large enough to permit the toe to slide forward
against the forward cross-bar. Wrap the two ends of the thong around
center of loop two or three times bringing them forward over the top
and drawing them under and back through the loop. Slip your toes under
the loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one on either side of the
foot, and tie snugly in the hollow above your heel.
This sling will hold well, will not chafe the foot, and with it the
snowshoe may be kicked free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an
instant.
Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, the sling may be tightened
by simply taking an additional turn or two (without untying) around the
toe loop.
I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as well as buckskin thongs,
though I have never used it because I have always carried an ample
supply of buckskin.
The best underclothing for the winter trail is good weight--though not
the heaviest--woolen. Two suits should be carried besides the suit
worn. Underclothing should not fit the body too snugly. It is better
that it should be a size too large than an exact fit.
The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of good quality, though not
too heavy.
Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear good-weight moleskin trousers,
almost entirely to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted them
several years ago as superior to any other. They are wind-proof and
warm and are particularly well adapted to the rough work of the trail.
The ordinary coat is not at all adapted to the northern wilderness
in winter, for it will not protect against drifting snow and driving
blizzard. In its stead the Eskimo adickey should be worn.
Any seamstress who can cut and make an ordinary work shirt can make an
adickey if your outfitter cannot supply it. This garment is slipped on
over the head like a shirt, and has a hood attached to draw over the
cap as a neck and head protection. The neck opening is large enough to
permit the head to pass through it without the necessity of a buttoned
opening in front, for no matter how closely buttoned a garment may be
drifting snow will find its way in. In length the adickey reaches half
way between hip and knees and is made circular at the bottom. The hood
should be of ample proportion to pull over the cap loosely, with a
drawstring encircling the front by which it may be drawn snugly to the
face. A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the face increases the
comfort, the fur acting as a protection against drifting snow. While
white Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favorite fabric for this
garment, it may be made of any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth.
Over the kersey adickey another adickey of some smooth-surfaced, strong
material, preferably moleskin, should be worn. This outside adickey
should of course be just enough larger than the kersey or blanket
adickey to fit over it easily. The adickeys may be worn singly or
together, according to the demands of the weather.
A Pontiac shirt, to be worn under the adickeys in extremely cold
weather, should be included in the outfit. This will serve, too, in
camp, when the adickeys are laid aside.
A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided with flaps to turn down over
the ears makes the best head protection. The hoods of the two adickeys,
as before stated, should be large enough to draw over this.
Very important indeed is the question of foot dress. Not only must we
aim to secure the greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, but
the ever-present danger of frostbite must also be guarded against.
Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit variety, and besides the pair
worn, three or four extra pairs should be carried in the kit.
Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, however, and where two
or three pairs are worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with
chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hudson's Bay Company stores keep
in stock a white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. If you are
making your start from a Post purchase some of this duffle and have
one of the women at the Post make you a pair of knee-length stockings
of the duffle to pull over your knit socks, and two pairs of slippers
of the same material, one just large enough to fit over the foot of
the long stockings, the other just a little larger to fit over all.
These should be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. The larger
outfitters carry in stock good wool duffle, and will make these to fit
properly.
In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never softens or gets moist even
under the midday sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer footwear.
Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, stop the proper circulation of
blood, and certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins should be
made with high tops, reaching above the ankles, with buckskin strings
to wrap around and secure them. Moccasins are light to pack, and it is
always well to carry a couple of extra pairs, to have on hand in case
of emergency.
Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, pliable cloth) large enough
to push the foot through protect the legs. These should be knee high,
with a drawstring to secure them just below the knee. Ordinary canvas
leggings will not do. The leggings _must_ be made in one piece, without
side buttons or other fastenings, for otherwise snow will work through
to the great discomfort of the wearer.
I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to legs of harbor sealskin,
the hair side of the sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable to
separate leggings but sealskin legs are difficult to procure.
Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit socks, one pair of the long
duffle stockings described above and one pair of the duffle slippers,
worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite sufficient.
The knit socks may be done away with entirely and also one pair of
duffle slippers if rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are worn with
the hair next the foot, and are very warm and soft.
In weather when the snow softens and becomes wet at midday, buckskin
moccasins will not do, for the least moisture penetrates buckskin. In
such weather sealskin boots are the best foot protection. They are
waterproof, pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this purpose have
neither soles nor heels. They are simply sealskin moccasins with legs,
secured with drawstrings below the knee. These are of Eskimo make, and
not generally obtainable though they may be purchased in Newfoundland.
Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are the next best moist-snow foot
gear.
Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs of mittens of thick wool
duffle, will protect the hands in the coldest weather. One pair should
be a little smaller than the other, that it may fit snugly into the
larger pair without wrinkles, and the larger pair of a size to fit in
the same manner into the buckskin mittens. When the weather is too warm
for both pairs, one pair may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or other
fur around the wrists of the buckskin mittens protects the wrists from
drifting snow.
A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the forehead will protect it from
intense cold. Hunting hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a pretty
good head protection, particularly at night. They cover the whole head
except the face, and may be drawn up over the chin. Mouth and nose must
not be covered, or the breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon the
face.
One caution, though it may seem a digression, may be made: If the nose
or cheeks become frosted, as will certainly happen sooner or later to
one traveling in a very low temperature, _do not rub snow upon the
frosted part_. Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture and remove
sections of the skin. The Eskimo way is to hold or rub the frosted part
with the bare hand until frost has been removed, and is far superior.
The clothing outfit above described will be found ample. Extra trousers
or other extra outer garments are not needed. _Let all hang loosely
upon the body._ Nothing should fit snugly.
A pair of smoked or amber goggles should always be included in the
winter outfit. Amber is more effective than smoked glass, though
ordinarily the latter will do. The goggles should be fastened with a
string to slip over the back of the head. _No metal should touch the
flesh._
The best low temperature sleeping bag is one of caribou skin made with
the hair inside. Under ordinary conditions, however, a waterproofed
canvas bag lined with good woolen blankets will do as well, though such
a bag with sufficient blanket lining to give it warmth equal to that
of the caribou skin bag would be much heavier and more bulky than the
latter. A bag lined with four thicknesses of llama wool duffle (that
is, four thicknesses over and four beneath the sleeper), however,
should not weigh more than ten pounds, and would correspond in warmth
to one lined with blankets weighing twenty pounds.
An A or wedge tent will be found the best model for winter travel. A
sheet-iron tent stove _with bottom_ and telescoping pipe will make the
tent warm and snug. The tent should be fitted with an asbestos ring at
the stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth or tarpaulin will
serve as an adequate and comfortable tent floor.
It is never safe or advisable for one to travel in the wilderness
alone, for a sprained ankle or broken leg in an isolated region would
be more than likely to result in death.
In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of flour, one pound of fat pork,
with baking powder, tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a man. It
is well when possible to carry frozen fresh meat, free from bone, with
a proportion of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. Butter makes
a tasty variety to the fat, for it will remain sweet at this season.
Prunes and chocolate are both worth while.
Or if the journey is to be extended the menu may be simplified by
the introduction of pemmican and the elimination of other articles.
Pemmican is the best condensed food ever invented for cold weather
work. One pound of pemmican and a quarter pound of pilot biscuit, as
a daily ration, will sustain a man at hard work, though it will prove
a monotonous diet. The above is merely suggested as a basis. It may
be expanded or contracted as circumstances require without disturbing
its mean value. Let it be remembered, however, that ordinary bread and
other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard as stone. Jerked venison
and desiccated vegetables make tasty and sustaining additions to the
ration, and will not freeze.
A man is supposed to be able to haul at good speed upon a toboggan a
load equal to his own weight. Therefore two men, each weighing 150
pounds, should between them haul 300 pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes,
guns, bedding, extra underclothing and all personal belongings of both,
if proper care be exercised in selection, should weigh not to exceed
140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we have 220 pounds, or a maximum
load of 110 pounds for each. The tent and general camp outfit is indeed
sufficient for four men. It is presumed that the aluminum cooking
outfit previously described will be chosen. Some eliminations, as,
for example, that of the folding baker, might easily be made without
serious loss of comfort.
To secure the load upon the toboggan, arrange the bags in which it is
packed evenly, taking care that no part of the load extends beyond the
sides of the toboggan. Adjust the tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth
neatly over it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the side rope on
one side at the rear. Bring the other end over and under the side rope
opposite. Cross it back over the load and over and under side rope to
front of next crossbar, and so on to front crossbar, taking slack as
you proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope in same manner over
load and under side ropes, forming diamonds where the rope crosses
itself on top of load. Bring the end of rope under side rope at rear,
take in all slack and tie.