PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
Each canoeist should have a personal kit or duffle bag of waterproof
canvas. These may be purchased from outfitters and are usually 36
inches deep and of 12, 15, 18 or 21 inches diameter. The 12-inch
bag, however, is amply large to accommodate all one needs in the way
of clothing and other personal gear. This, as well as every other
waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, excepting the cooking kit bag,
should be supplied with a handle on the bottom and one on the side.
These bags not only keep the contents dry, but, as previously stated,
do not absorb moisture to add to the weight, a very essential feature
where every unnecessary pound must be eliminated. I was once capsized
in a rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day in the water before it was
recovered. The contents were perfectly dry.
One suit of medium weight woolen underclothing in addition to the suit
worn is ample for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick woolen socks
should be provided--the home-knit kind. An excellent material for
trousers to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for midsummer wear
a good quality khaki is first rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand
the hardest usage and to my mind is superior to khaki or any other
material where wading is necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is
very nearly windproof. A good leather belt should be worn, even though
suspenders support the trousers.
The outer shirt should be of light weight gray or brown flannel and
provided with pockets. A blue flannel shirt of the best quality is all
right. The cheaper qualities of blue crock, and this feature makes
them objectionable. If the outer shirt is too heavy it will be found
cumbersome under the exertion of the portage.
A large, roomy Pontiac shirt to slip over the outer shirt and use as a
sweater is much preferable to a sweater on the trail. It is windproof
and warm. Do not take a coat--the Pontiac shirt will be both coat and
sweater. A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip and makes the pack
that much heavier.
A pair of low leather or canvas wading shoes for river work and
larrigans or shoe pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit two
pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed
mountaineer shoes or boots are not in place here.
Heavy German socks, supplied with garter and clasp to hold them in
position, are better than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from
chill at times when wading is necessary in icy waters.
Any kind of an old slouch hat is suitable.
Some canoeists take with them a suit of featherweight oilskin.
Personally I have never worn rainproof garments when canoeing. Once
I carried a so-called waterproof coat, but it was not waterproof. It
leaked water like a sieve, and was no protection even from the gentlest
shower. I am inclined, however, to favor featherweight oilskins, though
not while portaging--they would be found too warm--but when paddling in
rainy weather, or to wear on rainy days about camp.
If the trip is to extend into a black fly or mosquito region,
protection against the insects should be provided. A head net of black
bobbinet that will set down upon the shoulders, with strings to tie
under the arms, is about the best arrangement for the head. Old loose
kid gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers' satin elbow sleeves
to fit under the wrist bands of the outer shirt will protect the
wrists and hands. The armlets should be well and tightly sewn upon the
gloves, for black flies are not content to attack where they alight,
and will explore for the slightest opening and discover some undefended
spot. They are, too, a hundred times more vicious than mosquitoes.
There are many receipts for fly dope, but in a half hour after
application perspiration will eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and
a renewed application must be made. Nessmuk's receipt is perhaps as
good as any, and the formula is as follows:
Oil of pine tar 3 parts
Castor oil 2 parts
Oil of pennyroyal 1 part
If when you were a child your father held your nose as an inducement
for you to open your mouth while your mother poured castor oil down
your throat, the odor of the castor oil rising above the odors of the
other ingredients will revive sad memories. Indeed it is claimed for
this mixture that the dead will rise and flee from its compounded odor
as they would flee from eternal torment. It certainly should ward off
such little creatures as black flies and mosquitoes.
Another effective mixture is:
Oil of tar 3 parts
Sweet oil 3 parts
Oil of pennyroyal 1 part
Carbolic acid 3 per cent.
An Indian advised me once to carry a fat salt pork rind in my pocket,
and now and again rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I tried it
and found it nearly as good as the dopes.
Unless one penetrates, however, far north In Canada during black fly
season these extraordinary precautions will scarcely be necessary.
There Is nowhere In the United States a region where black flies are
really very bad (though perhaps I am drawing invidious comparisons in
making the statement), and even in interior Newfoundland they are,
compared with the farther north, tame and rather inoffensive though
always troublesome.
The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms depends largely upon
personal taste. Steel rods of the best quality will serve better than
split bamboo on an extended trip where one, continuously on the portage
trail, is often unable to properly dry the tackle. The steady soaking
of a split bamboo rod for a week is likely to loosen the sections and
injure a fine rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case is the right
sort for the rod--leather cases are unpractical on a cruising trip.
Leather gun cases, too, under like circumstances will become
watersoaked, and under any circumstances they are unnecessarily heavy.
Use canvas cases therefore in consideration for your back. They are
light and in a season of rain immeasurably better than leather.
Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your target practice before you hit
the trail. A hunter that cannot get his limit of big game with twenty
rifle cartridges is an unsafe individual to turn loose in the woods.
For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other small game a ten-inch barrel,
22-caliber single-shot pistol is an excellent arm, provided one has had
some previous experience in its use. It is not a burden on the belt,
and a handful of cartridges in the pocket are not noticed.
Pack your cartridges in a strong canvas bag, your gun grease and
accessories in another receptacle.
On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four-inch blade skinning knife
of the ordinary butcher knife shape. This will be your table knife, as
well as cooking and general utility knife.
In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a waterproof matchbox, always
kept well filled, and a compass.
A film camera is more practical for the trail than a plate camera for
many reasons, one of which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily
broken. It is well to have each roll of films put up separately in
a sealed, water-tight tin. Dealers will supply them thus at five
cents extra for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote case, too, is
better than leather, for leather in a long-continued rain will become
watersoaked, as before stated.
If a plate camera is carried the plates may be packed in a small light
wooden box--a starch box, for instance. The box will protect them under
ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, however, may be carried in a small
canvas bag that will slip into one of the larger waterproof bags.
My object in outlining outfit is rather to emphasize the possibilities
of selecting a light and efficient outfit that may be easily packed
and transported on the trail, than to evolve an infallible check list;
therefore I shall not attempt to name in detail toilet articles,
tobacco and odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save those things you
will surely find occasion to use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe,
should your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will hold them,
together with a sewing case containing needles, thread, patches and
some safety pins. Another will hold the hand towels and hand soap in
daily use, while an extra hand towel may be stowed in your duffle bag.
In concluding this chapter it may be pertinent to say that the novice
on the trail is pretty certain to burden himself with many things he
will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter into your confidence.
Tell him what sort of a trip you contemplate and he will advise you.
First-class outfitters are usually practical out-of-door men and
camping experts. They have made an extended study of the subject, for
it is part of their business to do so. Therefore, in selecting outfit,
it is both safe and wise to rely upon the advice of any responsible
outfitter.