two plans when he starts. He must either make a fine drive right over
the willows, and land in the meadow which lies between the teeing-ground
and the first hole, or he must make a careful drive so as to place the
ball on the hither side of the bushes, and then loft it over them with
an iron. If the ball drops in a favorable position, however, the player
may use his brassey with advantage, and drive through a gap that exists
in the underbrush. This move will generally save him a stroke over the
iron play. If he uses the iron, and arrives safely on the ground beyond,
a good cleek shot will land him on or near the green. If he used the
brassey and went through the willows at the ditch, a mashie shot should
put him in position for a putt.
In all plays for the first hole the fence as well as the road and the
bushes on the right must be avoided. Within sixty feet of the tee for
the second hole there is a ditch, and beyond it a slight hill, and after
that a level clear stretch to the second hole, just behind which is a
fine woods. Careful driving is therefore required to avoid going into
the ditch or hitting the hill, and many of the novices find they need to
give good care to their lofting to save themselves from jumping into the
woods.
[Illustration: ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL, CONCORD, GOLF LINKS.
Looking back from the middle links; course is around the fence on the
left.]
From the second to the third hole it is perfectly plain sailing, an
even, smooth meadow with a slight downward inclination. This part of the
course is so good that it has frequently been made in one drive. Between
the tee for the fourth hole and the hole itself there is a potato patch
surrounded by a fence, and, as every man who plays golf knows, a potato
patch is a very unpleasant hazard. But to the careful driver its terrors
in this case may be greatly reduced, for a good strong drive will put
you out of all danger. The putting green, however, is on a slight
elevation with woods behind it, so that considerable care is required
when dropping the ball upon it with a mashie stroke.
From the fourth to the fifth hole the course runs through an orchard,
which, however, is not very extensive, and many of the most expert
players on this links can drive entirely over it. The ground slopes
toward the putting green until within about fifty yards of it. From the
fifth to the sixth hole the ground is overgrown with crab bushes about
two feet high and very dense, so that a ball dropping fairly into the
midst of this patch is likely to lodge there. The space around the
green, however, is perfectly level, and is screened on the far side with
pine woods. It is one of the shadiest and best of greens that it has
been my fortune to see anywhere.
The course from the sixth to the seventh hole is likewise over a
reasonably smooth green, with tufts of crab bush sticking up here and
there. It has no especially difficult features, being a plain
straightaway course, but it offers a favorable chance for a good
iron-player to distinguish himself. The green from the next to the last
hole ends in a semicircle of pine woods, and then comes the long hole
home.
The home putting green, although level itself, is situated on a
hill-side, and so the man who is reckless or over-energetic with his
putting-iron is liable to make a long putt--and see his ball roll all
the way down the hill. At the bottom of this hill are a fence and
bushes, where many a game has been lost through the carelessness or
misfortune of the players who have allowed their balls to get into this
hazard at the last moment.
This St. Paul's links is situated in a very pretty part of the country,
and there are enough natural hazards to make it interesting even for a
first-class player. As may well be judged from the brief description I
have been able to give here, it is plain that the course is not over a
barren, uninteresting table-land, as is the case with many of our
American links, but in a locality where there are plenty of woods and
hills to make the scenery interesting. There are no impossible bunkers
or hazards, so that a round of the links is sure to be interesting. The
course is only about four or five minutes' walk from the main school
grounds, and is situated on school property, so that the students do not
have far to go for their sport, and find no one to interfere with them
when they get there.
The interest in the game has been growing steadily ever since the links
was first laid out, and it is to be hoped that other schools will take
the game up in the near future. There are a few country schools that
cannot have links, for even if the school property is not extensive
enough for the course to be laid out upon it, there ought to be little
difficulty in securing the permission of land-owners to lay out a few
putting greens, which would be about the only improvements required.
Almost any section of country has a sufficient number of natural hazards
to make it unnecessary to construct artificial bunkers and sand-pits.
And now that we are on this interesting subject of golf and bunkers and
hazards, it may be well to devote the rest of our space in the
Department this week to the answering of questions which have been
coming in with greater or less frequency during the year. Most of these
questions have concerned links and their construction, and as this is a
subject which cannot be treated satisfactorily in short letters, it has
seemed best to wait for a convenient time when the laying out of links
might be debated in these columns.
It may seem at first a very easy matter to lay out a golf course, but
when one begins work upon a links there are several things to be
considered. A very hilly country is unsuited to the game, and stony
fields or ploughed land is impossible. The best kind of land for a
course is pasture land, such as may be found in the neighborhood of
almost any town not situated in the mountain country. When a suitable
stretch of ground has been found, the first thing to be done is to make
a general survey of its salient features in order to determine the
general direction of the course and its length.
A links may be laid out with six holes or nine holes or eighteen holes,
and such courses would vary all the way from a mile and a half to four
miles. The ideal course should be about three miles and a half long. If
the available ground is limited, it is much better to lay out nine good
holes than to try to get eighteen into the limited space. Having settled
upon the starting-point and the number of holes that you are going to
have, the general direction of the course should be laid out so that it
will swing around in a sort of circular path, and finish up somewhere
near the starting-point. In other words, the home green should be placed
as near as possible to the first tee.
The length or distance between holes varies anywhere from a hundred up
to five hundred yards, the distance being based on the number of full
shots that a player must make to reach the next hole. The idea is to
make it easy for a good player to reach the green, but difficult for a
poor player, whose lack of skill must be penalized. Therefore a distance
of two hundred yards is generally bad, for it brings about the
objectional combination of a full shot and a short approach.
It is always well to have the holes well guarded with hazards on all
sides. Of course few holes can be thus completely surrounded, but when
laying out a links it is well to keep this object in mind, for hazards
call out the skill of a player. Sometimes there are not enough natural
hazards along the course, and it is necessary to throw up banks of
earth, or to plant bushes, or to dig ditches. If it becomes necessary to
throw up a bank across the course, it is better to build it in a sort of
curve rather than along a straight line, for it thus makes a much better
golfing hazard. One thing must be remembered in the construction or
arrangement of hazards, and that is that they should not interfere with
good play.
In the laying out of putting greens one should endeavor to have a space
clear of hazards about twenty yards square. The hole should be sunk in
about the centre of this green, and lined with an iron or tin cylinder.
But on no account should the rim of the cylinder come above or even
flush with the edges of the hole, or it will interfere with the play.
These cylinders may be bought at almost any shop where sporting goods
are for sale, or, if nothing better is at hand, an old piece of tin
water-pipe will do.
It is preferable to have level greens, although any slight inclination
is no serious disadvantage. It is well to dig up the ground where the
putting greens are to be laid out, in the autumn, and sod them in the
spring. They should be rolled frequently, and the grass must be kept
short.
Teeing-grounds should be marked with whitewash, or with disks of
whitewashed tin stuck into the ground. A teeing-ground should be as
level as possible, and never hanging--that is, sloping in the direction
from which the shot has to be played from it. Almost any slight
elevation will do for a teeing-ground, and it must be within easy
walking distance of the hole that has just been played.
After a golf course has been in use for a short time, it will be noticed
that the parts which suffer most are the places from which approach
shots are made to the greens, and the putting greens themselves. The use
of heavy irons is very injurious to the soft turf, and players should
always make it a point to replace any sod they may have torn up by
careless or poor strokes. When a green gets badly worn it is usually
advisable to change the location of the hole to another part, and
replace it in its original position after the turf has recovered some of
its original good condition.
Rolling is an important factor toward the keeping in order of a putting
green, but the roller should be a light one rather than a heavy one, as
heavy rollers are liable to get the turf root-bound. If the turf be very
coarse it is well to sprinkle sand over it, as that seems to have a
beneficial effect in thinning out and fining down the grass.
It has become a custom with the more important golf clubs of the country
to use flags of various colors to mark the outgoing and incoming holes.
Outgoing holes are marked with a red flag, and the incoming with white
flags. These colors are more easily distinguished against foliage than
any others. The line flags should be of a different color, so as not to
be confounded with the hole flags; yellow or pink is a good shade.
Another good thing to do in the way of marking a course is to indicate
the limits of such important hazards as water, roads, fences, or brier
islands with short wooden sticks painted white or whitewashed. Such
stakes may prove of great convenience, and take but little time and
trouble to set out.
In reference to the tables of records published last week, it is well to
say that the National figures may be looked upon as exact, because the
performances of the first National meeting stand as the Association's
records until they shall be bettered at future meetings of the National
I.S.A.A.A.; but of the figures in the Interscholastic table we cannot be
so sure, because there are so many interscholastic meetings all over the
country that it is almost impossible to get correct and reliable reports
of all performances, but this table is as near right as can be made
under the circumstances, and has been very carefully revised by a number
of athletes and other gentlemen interested in school sports in various
parts of the country.
It is interesting to note that most of the members of the Berkeley
School baseball team, who won the N.Y.I.S.B.B.A. championship this year,
are residents of New York city; thus it cannot be said with any justice
that New York boys cannot play ball. In the comment on the work of the
N.Y.I.S.A.A. nines in a recent issue of the ROUND TABLE it was stated
that Markell led in batting. This was a typographical error for Mallett.
Mallett of Trinity School heads the batting list with an average of
1000.
"TRACK ATHLETICS IN DETAIL."--ILLUSTRATED.--8VO, CLOTH, ORNAMENTAL,
$1.25.
THE GRADUATE.
[Illustration: STAMPS]
This Department is conducted in the interest of stamp and coin
collectors, and the Editor will be pleased to answer any question
on these subjects so far as possible. Correspondents should address
Editor Stamp Department.
Some time ago Mr. Friedl of Vienna, whose postal museum was one of the
sights of Vienna, came into possession of a large number of the Austrian
Mercury stamps of which the used copies bore a cancellation mark
hitherto unknown. He sold some of these stamps at large prices, when the
sale was stopped by a charge that these stamps were counterfeits. A
lengthy controversy ensued, which ended by an open acknowledgment that
the stamps were genuine. Mr. Friedl felt aggrieved at the charges, and
has determined to sell out his collections, his stock, and the contents
of his museum. One of the leading American dealers met him in Germany,
and secured a number of very valuable stamps; among other things he
purchased the unique complete unused sheet of 3 pf. Saxony, 1850 issue,
catalogued at $50 per stamp. Unfortunately the sheet never came to
America, as it was sold to a leading English collector who was also in
Germany at the same time. Numerous other good U.S. stamps changed hands
through this dealer, so that very little has come across the water.
[Illustration]
The only plate of the 2c. stamps containing different triangles is No.
170. This plate is printed in one sheet of four panes, each pane
containing 100 stamps. These sheets of 400 stamps are cut apart, and the
panes of 100 each form a complete sheet as we get them from the
post-office. The two left-hand sheets of Plate No. 170 contain seven
rows of Triangle III., and three rows of Triangle II. When a complete
sheet is not kept, collectors usually take a pair or block showing both
triangles.
[Illustration]
The summer months are usually dull in a philatelic sense, yet many
collectors find time to devote themselves to their hobby, and frequently
manage to get stamps at a lower price than during the brisker winter
months. This year the off season seems to have been devoted more
especially to Revenue and other stamps which are not connected with the
postal service. A collection of these oddities is very interesting in
itself, and also very instructive. In Germany many collections of the
Governmental Insurance stamps are made. (See illustration of the 14 pf.
Elsass-Lothringen stamp.) Late issues of German papers state that the
government has a surplus of 125,000,000 marks insurance money on hand,
which it proposed to invest in the building of cottages and houses for
workmen, to be let at reasonable rates. The law has been in force since
January 1, 1891, and it probably affects over 15,000,000 workmen and
work-women. It provides insurance against sickness and accidents, and
for a pension in old age. The benefits are: 1. Free medical treatment,
medicine, and surgical appliances through life. 2. Half-pay in cash
during illness, or free hospital treatment for thirteen weeks each year.
3. Twenty days' wages on death, and, if insurance is kept up, those
dependent on the deceased receive a small pension. 4. At a fixed period,
late in life, payments cease, and a small pension is given. The payments
into the fund for insurance are made weekly (forty-seven weeks to the
year) one-third by the workman, one-third by the employer, and one-third
by the government. Each state in Germany has its own series of stamps,
14 pf., 20 pf., 24 pf., 30 pf., etc., similar to the Elsass-Lothringen
represented above, but bearing its own name.
[Illustration]
In this country quite a number of savings-banks and similar
establishments have introduced a similar system. For instance, the Pratt
Thrift of Brooklyn sells stamps at 5c., 10c., 25c., and 50c. each. These
are pasted in a book or on a card, and can be turned in as so much cash
whenever desired. The great objection to collecting stamps of this
nature is that no used stamps can be bought, and unused stamps must be
paid for at full face.
On the other hand, it is not necessary to collect every value of each
issue. The lowest value will answer for the set if the design is the
same. Indeed, "general" stamp-collectors will soon be forced to take a
step like this in view of the absolute impossibility of obtaining copies
of the rarer stamps.
A. LOMBARD.--Any of the U.S. Revenues, unperforated, are worth
keeping. Many of them are rare, and uncovered pairs are always
worth much more than two single stamps.
PHILATUS.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
[Illustration: ROYAL BAKING POWDER]
[Illustration: THOMPSON'S EYE WATER]
[Illustration: BICYCLING]
This Department is conducted in the interest of Bicyclers, and the
Editor will be pleased to answer any question on the subject. Our
maps and tours contain many valuable data kindly supplied from the
official maps and road-books of the League of American Wheelmen.
Recognizing the value of the work being done by the L.A.W., the
Editor will be pleased to furnish subscribers with membership
blanks and information so far as possible.
[Illustration: Copyright, 1896, by Harper & Brothers.]
This week we give one of the best short trips in the vicinity of
Chicago. To take the trip, leave Chicago some afternoon by train, say
Saturday, planning to arrive at Waukesha in time for supper. Begin the
run early enough next morning so that you can reach Oconomowoc before
the heat of the middle of the day. It is possible to either take
breakfast at Waukesha, or to merely have a cup of coffee, and plan to
eat breakfast at Pewaukee, at the head of the lake of the same name. The
road is easily found, running north and northwest from Waukesha. Follow
the railroad for a short mile, then take the left fork and run out two
miles, after turning left again, before reaching the river, and follow
along on the westward side of this stream into Pewaukee. The distance is
about five miles and a half. After breakfast you can either take the
steamboat down the lake to Lakeside Cottages, or run out across the
Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad, keeping to the left fork at
the crossing, and running westward by Lakeside Station to Hartland.
From Lakeside Cottages you wheel up by the Lakeside station, cross the
track, and turn to the left into the road running into Hartland. From
Hartland to Nagawicka the road follows most of the way along by the
railroad, passing Pine Lake, and then, still following the railroad,
runs through Nashotah, at the head of Nagawicka Lake, continuing through
a slightly hilly country to Okauchee, and thence passing between
Okauchee Lake and Oconomowoc Lake, crossing the railroad just before
reaching Giffords, and recrossing again a mile beyond, running thence
into Oconomowoc. The road is easily found, except at a point just as you
pass through Okauchee, where, on reaching the school-house, you turn to
the left where the road forks and run direct to Giffords, as described.
From Hartland to Oconomowoc the road is through very attractive country,
covered with thriving farms, with frequently a water view over one of
the lakes that is well worth the ride from Waukesha. Here and there you
see summer cottages of city people in the midst of the farming country.
The hills between Nashotah and Okauchee are easy to climb, as they are
all graded, and the roads are as fine as any in that part of the State.
The gravel which lies on the top is well rolled down.
After having had two or three hours' rest in the middle of the day, with
dinner at Oconomowoc, the return trip can be made by what is called the
Nashotah road, passing Soft Water Lake, and running on between upper and
lower Nashotah lakes, thence following the road into Delafield, crossing
the stream in the centre of the town, and running out eastward along the
lower end of Nagawicka Lake. From this point the run into Waukesha is
made over what is known as the graded road to Waukesha. This trip can be
made easily in time for you to arrive in Waukesha early enough to take a
late afternoon train for Chicago.
The whole country about Waukesha is filled with lakes and with
picturesque scenery, and this particular trip can be extended in several
different ways by circling any one of the lakes, or by making a stay of
a day or two at any one of the towns, especially Pewaukee. Besides this,
a good way to reach Waukesha is to take a steamer from Chicago to
Milwaukee, and then ride down to Waukesha itself over the
Waukesha-Milwaukee road race-course, the distance being twenty-five
miles. This particular route will be given in the ROUND TABLE at an
early date. The Waukesha route itself is about thirty-six miles in all.
[Illustration: THE CAMERA CLUB]
Any questions in regard to photograph matters will be willingly
answered by the Editor of this column, and we should be glad to
hear from any of our club who can make helpful suggestions.
THE MYSTERY OF SILVER FEINTING.
Correctly speaking, the image on the sensitive paper is permanent when
it is removed from the printing-frame, but the silver chloride which has
not been acted upon by the light is still sensitive, and unless it is
removed, it would also decompose, and thus the picture would be lost. In
order to preserve this picture some chemical agent must be used which
shall remove or dissolve the unchanged chloride of silver.
It has been shown that the portion of the chloride of silver which has
been acted upon by the light has been changed to a different chemical
compound. Any chemical process to which the picture might be subjected
would be likely to act on each compound in a different manner. In order
to preserve the picture some chemical agent must be employed which shall
remove or dissolve the silver chloride, but which shall not affect the
chemical compound which forms the picture.
After many experiments a safe, and now cheap,[2] agent was found in
hyposulphite of soda. When the print is placed in a solution of
hyposulphite of soda a new compound is formed--silver sodium
hyposulphite. This double salt dissolves very quickly in water, and is
easily washed out of the film. If, however, the hypo solution is not
strong enough, another compound is formed, which will not dissolve, and
cannot be washed out of the film. It decomposes by degrees, and produces
a yellowish-brown deposit, which ruins the paper or film. This is the
reason why prints and films are a dull yellowish color; it is the
formation of an insoluble salt by using too weak hypo, or not leaving
the paper or negative long enough in the solution.
[2] When Herschel discovered that hyposulphite of soda was a solvent for
chloride of silver, the price was one guinea per pound.
Each atom of nitrate of silver requires three atoms of hyposulphite of
soda to form the soluble double salt. Negatives require a solution
double the strength of that used for prints. The proportion for
negatives is 1 oz. of hyposulphite of soda to 4 oz. of water, while the
solution for prints requires 8 oz. of water to 1 oz. of hypo.
Hypo does not keep well in solution, and should be made up in small
quantities. It is better to keep the bottles containing it in a dark
place, or to wrap them in paper. A small piece of chalk dropped in the
solution will counteract or neutralize any trace of acid that may be
formed.
A bottle which has contained hypo, or a dish in which it has been used
for fixing purposes, should not be used for other chemicals. Hypo will
penetrate glass or porcelain in a few days, and therefore contaminates
any solution which is placed in a vessel which has once contained it.