CHAPTER I.

[Transcriber's Note: In this text the two occurrences of the letter n

with a macron above it are represented by ṅ. The one occurrence of the

letter ā with an acute accent above it is represented by ´ā. Some

illustrations have been relocated to fall between paragraphs rather

than within.]

THE PATAGONIANS

LONDON: PRINTED BY

SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE

AND PARLIAMENT STREET

[Illustration: WÁKI KILLING A PUMA.]

AT HOME

WITH

THE PATAGONIANS

A YEAR'S WANDERINGS OVER UNTRODDEN GROUND

FROM THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN

TO THE RIO NEGRO

By GEORGE CHAWORTH MUSTERS

RETIRED COMMANDER R.N.

_WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_

LONDON

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET

1871

_The right of translation is reserved_

TO MY FRIEND

F. W. EGERTON,

ROYAL NAVY,

THIS NARRATIVE IS DEDICATED.

PREFACE.

In submitting the following pages to the public, I am conscious that

some readers who desire exact and scientific descriptions of the

geography and geology of Patagonia will be disappointed; but it must be

urged as an apology that instruments could not be carried nor safely

used under the circumstances. The course travelled was as carefully laid

down, by the help of a compass, as was possible; and the map of the

country is so far accurate, and, if incomplete, at least is not

imaginative. To others who may perhaps eagerly expect tales of stirring

adventure and hair-breadth escapes, such as are usually recounted as the

every-day occurrences of uncivilised life, I can only express the hope

that this faithful record of life with the Indians all the year round,

if not very sensational, will serve at least to make them really at home

with the Tehuelches. It is a pleasanter task to record my thanks to

those by whose assistance the results of my journey have been utilised;

foremost of whom is the venerable ex-President of the Royal Geographical

Society, Sir RODERICK MURCHISON, whose kindly reception and introduction

of the returned traveller to the Society are gratefully acknowledged.

My obligations are scarcely less to CLEMENTS MARKHAM, C.B., whose

unrivalled knowledge of the early history as well as the geography of

South America has been freely placed at my disposal; and to Dr. HOOKER,

Director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, for his courteous assistance in

identifying some of the plants observed: while to Mr. RUDLER, of the

Museum of Mines, I am indebted for a careful classification of the

various specimens of rocks and minerals collected in the country.

Lastly, the reader will share in my gratitude to Mr. ZWECKER, whose able

pencil has created, out of rough outlines sketched in a pocket-book, the

vivid and faithful illustrations which bring before his eyes the scenery

and incidents of life in Patagonia.

G. C. M.

_September 1, 1871._

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.

PAGE

Journey Planned. -- Preparations. -- Passage from Stanley. -- The

Straits. -- First Footsteps in Patagonia. -- The Narrows. --

Punta Arenas. -- Commandante Viel. -- The Colony. -- The Town.

-- Chilotes and Convicts. -- Resources. -- Visit to the Coal

Bed. -- Lieut. Gallegos. -- The Start. -- Rio Chaunco. -- The

Patagonian Pampas. -- Our Party. -- Cabecera del Mar. -- Oazy

Harbour. -- A useless Chase. -- A Fireless Night. -- Volcanic

Hills. -- Pampa Yarns. -- Rio Gallegos. -- First Indians. --

Sam Slick. -- Rio Cuheyli. -- Meeting with Tehuelches. --

Caravan of Women. -- 'Anglish' Politeness. -- Desert. -- Santa

Cruz at last 1

CHAPTER II.

SANTA CRUZ.

Introduction to Chiefs. -- Orkeke. -- Chilian Deserters. -- The

Settlement. -- Island of Pabon. -- Natural Advantages. -- The

Mission Station. -- Mr. Clarke. -- Our Circle at Pabon. --

Expedition to Lake Viedma. -- Winter Occupations. -- Work and

Play. -- Casimiro's Adventures. -- His Character. -- A Winter

Hunting Excursion. -- A Pampa Snow-storm. -- The Santa Cruz

Valley. -- Up the River. -- The Northern Hills. -- Pumas. --

Devil's Eyes. -- Hunting on Foot. -- Intense Cold. -- Return of

the Deserters. -- Visit to the Indian Camp. -- First Night in a

Toldo. -- Towing a Horse. -- Adieu to Santa Cruz 33

CHAPTER III.

THE RIO CHICO.

Breaking up of the Camp. -- An Idle Day. -- A Rash Start. -- A

Dilemma. -- Alone on the Pampa. -- Reunion. -- The Kau or

Toldo. -- The Domestic Interior. -- The Indian Tribes. -- Three

Races. -- Order of the March. -- The Hunt. -- Indian Game Law.

-- Tehuelche Cookery. -- Basaltic Hills. -- An Indian Festival.

-- My First Tehuelche Ball. -- Mrs. Orkeke's Spill. -- Fording

Rio Chico. -- A Battle. -- Death of Cuastro. -- Dangerous

Times. -- Chilian Conspiracy. -- Obsidian Plain and Pass. --

First Ostrich Eggs. -- Amakaken. -- Lifting the Boulder. -- The

Devil's Country. -- God's Hill. -- Condors and Dinner. --

Sunrise on the Cordillera. -- The Plague Herald. -- Gelgel Aik.

-- Escape from Matrimony. -- Téle. -- Eyes of the Desert. --

Preparations for War. -- Another Fight. -- Water Tigers. --

Indian Bravoes. -- Iron Ores. -- Ship Rock. -- Perch Fishing.

-- Appley-kaik. -- Casimiro's Escape. -- Arrival at Henno 62

CHAPTER IV.

HENNOKAIK TO TECKEL.

Ceremonial of Welcome. -- Hinchel's Indians. -- Tehuelches

and Araucanos. -- Jackechan and the Chupat Tribe. -- My

Examination. -- Encampment at Henno. -- Peaceful Occupations.

-- The Oldest Inhabitant. -- Chiriq. -- The Hidden Cities. --

Modern Legends. -- Mysteries of the Cordillera. -- Los Cesares.

-- La Ciudad Encantada. -- Its Whereabouts. -- The Indian

Cesares. -- The Guanaco. -- The Patagonian Ostrich. --

Neighbourhood of Chiriq. -- Horseracing. -- Indian Horses. --

Indian Dogs. -- Dog and Lover. -- Plaiting Sinews. -- Windy

Hill. -- Surrounded by Fire. -- Young Guanaco. -- Arrival of

Grog. -- News from Santa Cruz. -- Gisk. -- Romantic Scenery. --

A Pleasant Neighbourhood. -- Fairy Glen. -- Breaking a Horse.

-- Female Curiosity. -- The Wild Cattle Country. -- The Forests

of the Cordillera. -- The Watershed. -- Among the Mountains. --

Wild Flowers. -- A Bull Fight. -- The Bull Victorious. -- No

Christmas Beef. -- Teckel. -- Change of Quarters 108

CHAPTER V.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TEHUELCHES.

Patagonian Giants. -- A Long Walk. -- Strength and Good Humour.

-- Heads of Hair. -- Tehuelche Coquettes. -- Dress of Men and

Women. -- Ornaments and Cosmetics. -- Toilette and Bath. --

Arms and Implements. -- Ancient Bolas and Arrows. -- Saddles

and Bridles. -- Silversmiths. -- Manufacture of Mantles. --

Women's Work. -- Diet and Cookery. -- Smoking. -- Card Playing.

-- Game of Ball. -- Ceremonies at Birth. -- Childhood. --

Marriage. -- Funeral Rites. -- Religion. -- Demons and Doctors.

-- Witchcraft and Omens. -- Medical Skill. -- Population and

Politics. -- Etiquette. -- Tehuelche Character. -- Natural

Affection. -- Advice to Travellers 157

CHAPTER VI.

TECKEL TO GEYLUM.

Casimiro's Household. -- Carge-kaik. -- Quintuhual's Son. --

Woolkein. -- Partridges. -- Meeting with the Araucanians. --

The Cacique Quintuhual. -- Esgel-kaik. -- Araucanian Belles. --

Communication with Chupat Colony. -- Diplaik. -- Calficura's

Declaration of War. -- Tehuelches learn Fishing. -- My Indian

Relatives. -- Woodland Rambles. -- An Indian Paradise. -- The

Upper Chupat. -- Cushamon. -- Losing Horses. -- Official

Functions. -- Message from Las Manzanas. -- Blessing the

Liquor. -- Casimiro Intoxicated. -- Foyel's Encampment. --

Great Parlemento. -- Foyel's Ideas. -- Gatchen-kaik. -- Arrival

at Geylum 189

CHAPTER VII.

LAS MANZANAS.

Catching a Thief. -- Miss Foyel. -- Start for Las Manzanas. --

First View of the Apple Groves. -- Omens of War. -- Inacayal's

Tolderia. -- Crossing the Rio Limay. -- Mr. Cox's Shipwreck. --

Lenketrou's Raid. -- A Night of Alarm. -- Bravery of my

Cousins. -- The Great Cheoeque. -- A Mounted Parlemento. --

Apples and Piñones. -- Graviel's Madness. -- Las Manzanas. --

Cheoeque's Palace. -- The Revels. -- Feuds between the Chiefs.

-- The Picunches and the Passes to Valdivia. -- Trading and

Politics. -- Resolutions of Peace. -- A Grand Banquet. -- Power

of Cheoeque. -- Araucanian Customs. -- Farewell Presents. --

Invitation to Return. -- Orkeke's Generosity. -- Return to

Geylum. -- Outbreak of an Epidemic. -- My Pretty Page. --

Departure from Geylum 218

CHAPTER VIII.

GEYLUM TO PATAGONES.

A Sick Camp. -- Oerroè Volcanic Hill. -- Crimè's Deathbed. --

Graviel's Promotion. -- The Burning Ground. -- Hot Springs. --

Fighting the Gualichu. -- A Real Fight. -- A Soda Lake. --

Encampment at Telck. -- The Doctor comes to Grief. -- An

Obliging Ostrich. -- Appointed Chasqui. -- Miseries of Pampa

Life. -- A Bad Time. -- The Plains of Margensho. -- Casimiro's

Distrust. -- Doctor and Sick Child. -- Duties of a Messenger.

-- Departure of the Chasquis. -- Travelling Express. -- The

Paved Pampas. -- An Ideal Bandit. -- Letter from the Chupat

Colony. -- Trinita. -- Teneforo's Pampas. -- Champayo's

Generosity. -- A Morning Drink. -- Departure from Trinita. --

Valchita. -- The Pig's-Road. -- Wild Horses. -- The Travesia.

-- Limit of the Patagonian Fauna and Flora. -- First View of

the Rio Negro. -- Sauce Blanco. -- The Guardia. -- San Xaviel.

-- Approach to Patagones. -- Señor Murga. -- Welsh Hospitality.

-- Among Friends at Last 247

CHAPTER IX.

THE RIO NEGRO SETTLEMENTS.

Patagones, or Carmen Old Town. -- The Fort and Buildings. -- The

Southern Town. -- The English Mission. -- Elements of the

Population. -- The Negroes. -- The Convicts. -- Lawless State

of Society. -- The Cemetery. -- Early History of the Colony. --

A Successful Stratagem. -- Villarino's Ascent of the River. --

Expedition of Rosas. -- The Island of Choelechel. -- La Guardia

Chica. -- Estancia of Messrs. Kincaid. -- Ancient Indian

Graves. -- Flint Weapons. -- The Shepherd and Pumas. --

Estancia San André. -- The Indians and the Colonists. --

Calficura's Raid. -- Indian Method of Attack. -- The Tame

Indians. -- View of the Valley. -- Trade of Patagones. --

Fertility of the Soil. -- Rio Negro Wine. -- The Sportsman. --

Advice to Emigrants. -- Interview with Col. Murga. -- The

Government Grants to Chiefs. -- Casimiro again. -- The

Tehuelches in Town. -- Farewell. -- The Welsh Utopia. -- Social

Life at Patagones. -- The Steamer at Last. -- Aground. -- The

Pilot. -- Pat Sweeny. -- Adieu to Patagonia 288

APPENDIX.

A.--A partial Vocabulary of the Tsoneca Language as spoken by the

Northern Tehuelches 319

B.--Testimony of successive Voyagers to the Stature of the

Patagonians 323

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

WÁKI KILLING A PUMA _Frontispiece_

MAP OF PATAGONIA _at the end_

STATION ON PABON ISLAND, RIO SANTA CRUZ _to face p._ 37

HUNTING GUANACO AND OSTRICH, VALLEY OF RIO CHICO _p._ 64

START FROM THE CAMP AT MÔWAISH, OR WINDOW HILL 75

CEREMONY OF WELCOME (TEHUELCHES AND ARAUCANIANS) 110

A WILD BULL IN THE CORDILLERA 151

SKETCH MAP FROM RIO SENGEL TO TECKEL 156

TEHUELCHE ARMS AND IMPLEMENTS 164

THE PRETTY HOUSE AND DANCE 175

CROSSING THE RIO LIMAY 223

INTRODUCTION.

Three hundred and fifty years ago the great navigator Magellan anchored

in a port on the eastern coast of an unknown shore, part of the seaboard

of the vast continent of South America, to which he gave the name of St.

Julian. Starting from this point, the pilot Serrano explored the coast

to the southward, and discovered a river, which he named Santa Cruz. His

ship was wrecked near the mouth, and left her timbers on the rocks, the

first of the long list of vessels lost on that ironbound coast which,

from the mouth of the Rio Negro to the Straits, offers but one or two

safe harbours, while submerged reefs, fierce gales, strong tides,

currents, and overfalls combine to render it nearly the most perilous

known to navigators.

Magellan remained at Port St. Julian and Santa Cruz from April till

October of 1520, when he sailed southward, and discovered the Straits

which bear his name. Two months after his arrival at Port St. Julian a

man of gigantic stature appeared on the beach, 'larger and taller than

the stoutest man of Castile.' Eighteen natives afterwards arrived,

dressed in cloaks of skins and shoes of guanaco hide, which made huge

footmarks, whence they were called Patagonés, or 'large feet,' by the

Spaniards; and thus originated in a nickname the name of the country,

Patagonia. These men used bows and arrows, and had with them four young

guanacos, with which they decoyed the wild ones within shot. Two young

men were treacherously seized and carried off, howling and calling on

their god Setebos. The natives naturally resented this return for their

ready friendliness, and, attacking a party sent after them, killed one

Spaniard with their arrows. Enough, however, was seen of them to furnish

Pigafetta with some details. 'Their tents were light movable frames,

covered with skins; their faces were painted; they were very swift of

foot, had tools of sharp-edged flints, and ate their meat nearly raw.'

That the first knowledge of Patagonia was diffused in England by

Pigafetta's narrative is suggested by Caliban's lines in the 'Tempest:'

'he could command my dam's god Setebos;' but it was not till 1578 that

the newly-discovered country was visited by Englishmen.

Sir Francis Drake in that year anchored in Seal Bay--probably a little

to the south of Port Desire--and saw several Indians. His chaplain

narrates their method of stalking the ostriches: 'They have a plume of

ostrich feathers on a long staff, large enough to hide a man behind, and

with this they stalk the ostriches.' He further says: 'They would have

none of our company until such time as they were warranted by their God

"Settaboth." They never cut their hair, which they make a store-house

for all the things they carry about--a quiver for arrows, a sheath for

knives, a case for toothpicks, a box for fire sticks, and what not; they

are fond of dancing with rattles round their waists; they have clean,

comely, and strong bodies, are swift of foot, very active, a goodly and

lively people. Magellan was not altogether wrong in naming them giants,

yet they are not taller than some Englishmen.' Drake next visited Port

St. Julian; and, curiously enough, as Magellan had in this place put to

death two and marooned a third of his captains who mutinied, so this

harbour was the scene of the execution of Mr. Doughty, who chose rather

to be beheaded than to be put on shore. The ensuing year Sarmiento was

despatched from Callao to examine the Straits in search of the daring

Englishman. He saw natives who chased their game on horseback, and

brought it down with bolas. But fifty years had elapsed since horses had

been imported by the Spaniards of the Rio de la Plata, and already the

Indians in the far south had become horsemen, and would seem to have

exchanged their bows and arrows for the bolas.

In 1581 Sarmiento was sent from Spain with 2,500 men in twenty-three

ships, to found new colonies in the Straits, and established a

settlement, leaving 400 men and thirty women, furnished with eight

months' provisions. On his way home his ship was captured by the

English, and the unhappy colonists were altogether forgotten and

neglected by their Government.

Five years after, Thomas Cavendish anchored in a bay to the south of St.

Julian, called by him Port Desire, which perpetuates the name of his

little craft of 120 tons. Here the natives attacked his men with bows

and arrows. Visiting the Straits, he arrived at the settlement, and

found only twelve men and three women surviving, the rest having

perished of slow starvation and disease; and the name of the place,

Port Famine, conferred by him, still recalls the miserable fate of

these ill-fated colonists.

On his next voyage, in 1591, Cavendish died; but John Davis twice

visited Port Desire, and explored the river for twenty miles. During his

stay some 1,000 natives visited the strangers, and Knyvet describes them

as being fifteen or sixteen span high.

Passing over the visits of Van Noort and Schouten, in the reign of

Charles the Second Sir John Narborough took possession of the country

near Port Desire in the name of the King. But few natives were seen, and

the mate, Mr. Wood, boastingly declared that he himself was taller than

any of them.

In the eighteenth century Byron and Wallis successively visited the

shores of Patagonia, and made friends with the natives, whose height

was found to be from 5 feet 10 inches to 6 feet, while some were nearly

7 feet high.

In 1774 the Jesuit Father Falkner published his work on Patagonia,

containing all the information procured by himself and the other Jesuit

missionaries who had attempted to obtain a footing on the western and

northern boundaries. His account of the Tehuelches, or Tsoneca Indians,

was evidently derived from personal communication with them, although

his knowledge of the topography of their country seems to have been

procured from the reports of others. By this work, which produced a

great sensation, the jealous fears of the Spanish Government were

aroused, and they hastened to despatch an expedition to form settlements

on the coast of Patagonia.

Of the brothers Viedma, who were sent in command, Francisco founded

Carmen at the mouth of the Rio Negro, and Antonio, after first fixing

on Port Desire, determined finally on Port St. Julian as the site

of another colony. He thence undertook the first exploration of the

interior in search of timber for building, in the course of which he

reached the great lake at the foot of the Cordillera, from which flowed

the Rio Santa Cruz. Both on the coast and in the interior he received

much friendly aid from the Indians, of whom he formed a most favourable

opinion.

Under his brother's auspices the Rio Negro was ascended as far as the

mountains by Villarino, to whose expedition reference will be made in

the proper place.

No further knowledge was gained of the interior of Patagonia until the

survey of the Beagle, so ably performed and so admirably described by

Fitzroy and Darwin; during which the ascent of the Santa Cruz river for

200 miles enabled the latter to observe the remarkable formations which

he has so aptly described in his work on the Geology of South America.

This brief but perhaps tedious account has been given to show that

although the coasts of Patagonia had been explored and surveyed, yet

the interior of the country, though pierced by the expeditions of Viedma

and Fitzroy, remained up to a late date still almost unknown. Its

inhabitants, the Tehuelches, had been often communicated with, their

stature noted, and their friendly disposition commended; but their

real manners of life as they wandered through the country, and their

relations with, or difference from, the Araucanian and Pampa Indians,

had remained almost as much a mystery as they were in the last century.

During the last thirty years the Governments of Chili and of Buenos

Ayres have shown themselves inclined to claim the possession of the

coast, the former trying to advance from the Straits, and the latter

from Patagones; and the natives have acknowledged the influence of

either Government as they happened to be in the northern or southern

parts respectively. Our missionaries also have not left the Patagonians

without some efforts to instruct and evangelise them; and although these

efforts have been necessarily limited to the coast, yet the fruits of

Mr. Schmid's sojourn with the Tehuelches remain both in their friendly

feelings and in the lasting record of the vocabulary of the Tsoneca

language published by him. And the intercourse of these Indians with

Argentines and Chilians, and more especially with English officers,

sealers, and missionaries successively, all of whom have testified

favourably to their character, has tended to make them more open to

access, and to give them a knowledge of foreigners; so that in this

respect I can feel that to all those who have been mentioned as having

thus preceded me, this brief record is due from a traveller who has

experienced the friendly feelings of the natives towards strangers, and

especially Englishmen.

While engaged in preparing the ensuing pages for the press, I have had

an opportunity of perusing the work of M. Guinnard, first published

in French, and recently given to the English public in a spirited

translation, entitled 'Three Years' Slavery among the Patagonians.' The

name necessarily attracted me, but to my great surprise careful perusal

led to the distinct conviction that the author's personal experiences

were altogether confined to the Pampas Indians north of the Rio Negro.

From his own statements and omissions it is quite evident that he was

not carried by any of his successive masters across this river, which he

clearly and accurately defines to be (p. 40) the northern boundary of

Patagonia. The name of Patagonians is, therefore, a complete misnomer;

and the curious account (pp. 72-3) of the 'Tchéouelches,' or Foot

Nomads, clothed in seal skins and accustomed to live on fish, and

literally destitute of horses, is applicable to no tribe whatever east

of the Cordillera, the Fuegians being the only race presenting any of

the characteristic habits attributed to this so-called Patagonian tribe.

I hope I may not be supposed to be desirous of impeaching the accuracy

of M. Guinnard's account of the hardships endured in his captivity, or

of the customs of the Indians into whose hands he fell, much of which I

can corroborate; but it is to be regretted that he was induced, probably

by others, to describe under the name of Patagonians, the Pampas

Indians, who, by country, race, language, and character, are marked as

being altogether distinct from the Tehuelches of Patagonia.

AT HOME

WITH

THE PATAGONIANS.

CHAPTER I.

FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.

Journey Planned. -- Preparations. -- Passage from Stanley. -- The

Straits. -- First Footsteps in Patagonia. -- The Narrows. --

Punta Arenas. -- Commandante Viel. -- The Colony. -- The Town.

-- Chilotes and Convicts. -- Resources. -- Visit to the Coal

Bed. -- Lieut. Gallegos. -- The Start. -- Rio Chaunco. -- The

Patagonian Pampas. -- Our Party. -- Cabecera del Mar. -- Oazy

Harbour. -- A useless Chase. -- A Fireless Night. -- Volcanic

Hills. -- Pampa Yarns. -- Rio Gallegos. -- First Indians. --

Sam Slick. -- Rio Cuheyli. -- Meeting with Tehuelches. --

Caravan of Women. -- 'Anglish' Politeness. -- Desert. -- Santa

Cruz at last.

In April 1869 chance took me to our remote colony of the Falkland

Islands, with the purpose of taking thence a passage to Buenos Ayres to

arrange some business matters. During my stay in the settlement, the

coast of Patagonia, in the survey of which H.M.S. Nassau was then

engaged, formed a frequent topic of conversation. I had formerly, when

stationed on the south-east coast of America, read with delight Mr.

Darwin's work on South America, as well as Fitzroy's admirable Narrative

of the Voyage of the Beagle, and had ever since entertained a strong

desire to penetrate if possible the little-known interior of the

country. Now, at length, a favourable opportunity seemed to have arrived

for carrying out the cherished scheme of traversing the country from

Punta Arena to the Rio Negro, Valdivia, or even to Buenos Ayres. The

accounts given me of the Tehuelche character and of the glorious

excitement of the chase after the guanaco, graphically described by a

seaman, Sam Bonner, who had been much on the coast and had resided at

the Santa Cruz station, made me more than ever anxious to prosecute this

plan; and, having a tolerable acquaintance with Spanish, which language

many of the Indians know well, it seemed to me possible to safely

traverse the country in company with some one or other of their

wandering parties. Accordingly I bestirred myself to obtain information

as to the best way of getting such an introduction to the Indians

as would probably secure their consent; to which end most material

assistance was afforded by Mr. Dean, of Stanley, who kindly provided

me with letters of introduction to Captain Luiz Piedra Buena, an

intelligent Argentine well known in Stanley, the owner of a schooner, in

which he worked the seal fisheries on the coast, and also of a trading

station at the Middle Island, on the Santa Cruz river. Mr. Dean was of

opinion that I should be almost certain to meet with Don Luiz in the

Straits of Magellan, and that he would willingly exert his influence

with the Indians to enable me to carry out my plan of travel. I was

furthermore provided with letters of credit to the firm of Messrs.

Aguirre & Murga, at Patagones, or, as it is most commonly called at

Stanley, the Rio Negro.

Thus armed with credentials, and equipped with a guanaco skin mantle,

lazo and bolas, I availed myself of the offer of a passage to the

Straits made by an old friend who was bound to the westward coast.

In the first week of April we sailed from Stanley, and, after a

boisterous passage of eleven days, anchored in Possession Bay, just

within the entrance of the Straits, to wait for the turn of the tide, as

the extreme velocity with which the tides ebb and flow through these

channels renders it impossible for any vessel not possessed of great

steam power to proceed except the tide is favourable. Our first view of

the Straits did not impress me favourably. On either hand the shores

looked bleak and barren, though far away to the south and west the

mountains of Tierra del Fuego could be distinctly seen. As we anchored

early in the afternoon, a descent on the coast of Patagonia was

proposed, and a party speedily volunteered--well provided with guns

and other arms, for the purposes of sport and self-defence in case of

necessity--and were soon in the boat. As the tide was out, the shoal

water did not permit us to reach the shore, so we had to wade some two

or three hundred yards over beds of sharp-edged mussels, and, after a

climb up the steep cliff, found ourselves on the verge of a barren plain

which seemed perfectly destitute of life.

After a tramp of some distance we came to the edge of a gully running

down to the coast, where finding the torn carcase of a guanaco, we

stopped to examine what was to most of us an unknown animal; and

our speculations as to the curious hybrid form of the odd-looking

'camel-sheep' were put an end to by the discovery close by of the fresh

footprints of a puma. These were eagerly tracked, in the hopes of a

little entertainment; but after some tedious searching we abandoned

the pursuit, and again resuming our excursion, tramped along through

high, coarse grass, and sparsely scattered thorny bushes; some of the

sportsmen varying the monotony by an occasional shot at a snipe. The

day was very genial, the warmth of the bright sunshine was tempered by

a wind just cool enough to make a walk pleasant, and the Patagonian

climate was pronounced by all hands to be agreeable. Whilst we were

beating a rough bit of ground, to our utter amazement and delight our

friend the puma jumped out of a bush; but the first surprise was so

great, that the opportunity of giving him a long shot was lost. Away

we all started in chase, hoping to be able to keep him in sight from

a small adjacent eminence; and after a good breather two of the party

succeeded in viewing him to somewhere near the edge of the cliffs,

mainly guided by a retriever dog, which seemed as anxious as anybody to

see what the catamount hide was made of. On arriving at the cliff, a

seaman observed his tracks on the soft clay of the shelving brow, and

soon proclaimed his discovery of the puma in a hole or small cave just

below, by the exclamation of 'There he is!' at the same time thrusting

the stick he had been beating with nearly into the mouth of the 'lion,'

which had set our dog, and appeared about to spring on him. Two shots

were fired in quick succession, but apparently without effect, as

he made good his retreat, affording us a fine view as he went off,

springing in great bounds, along the beach. Pursuit was of course

organised, but night being near failed to afford us an opportunity of

a closer study of this specimen of the feline race; and we accordingly

started again for the ship, after firing a shot or two into the numerous

flocks of oyster-catchers and shags which were domiciled on the rocks

and about the cliffs. The number of these and other sea-birds was

incalculable; the numerous beds of mussels furnishing them with constant

food.

Next morning we were under weigh with the flood-tide, and rapidly ran

through the narrows at a speed of eighteen miles an hour. The scenery on

the northern side of the Straits offered little variety until we sighted

the Barrancas of San Gregorio, a range of somewhat picturesque hills,

rising near the north shore of the bay of the same name, and running

along for some miles in an easterly direction. On the southern or

Fuegian side of the Straits the land was low for some distance from the

coast, and resembled the northern shore, but high mountains were visible

in the background. After passing the second narrows, an hour or two's

run with the flood-tide and a good head of steam brought us opposite to

the 'Island of San Isabel,' or Elizabeth Island; after passing which the

snow-clad peaks of Mount Sarmiento, in the southern part of Tierra del

Fuego, came into sight, appearing to rise out of the water, ninety miles

distant, if not more. Steaming along the coast through numerous beds

of the characteristic kelp seaweed, which in the most forcible way

attracted our attention, by fouling the screw, and holding the ship

as if anchored for about an hour, we passed Cape Negro, and opened

completely different scenery. Instead of undulating plains, hills

thickly wooded were seen; at the foot of one of which, on a low piece

of flat ground, numerous horsemen, dressed in gay-coloured ponchos, were

visible, careering about.

It was the afternoon of Sunday, which in all Spanish South American

countries is a gala day, more or less appropriated to horse-racing.

However, the sight of a steamer appeared to cause a diversion, and, in

fact, a general race to the settlement ensued, all being apparently

anxious for anything new or strange. The anchor was soon dropped, near

an American schooner lying off the Sandy Point, from which the Chilian

settlement of Punta Arenas derives its name.

There was no sign of the Nassau, then engaged in the survey of the

Straits, which we had hoped to find in this anchorage; but from the

Chilian officer, who speedily boarded us, we learned that she had sailed

to the westward a day or two before our arrival, and was expected to

return immediately. The results of the careful observations made by Mr.

Cunningham, of the scenery and natural history of the Straits, have

appeared while these pages were in preparation for the press; and it

affords me pleasure to refer such as desire more scientific accounts of

the botany and zoology, at least of Southern Patagonia, than it was in

my power to obtain, to his work.

My own object in visiting Punta Arenas was to proceed thence to Santa

Cruz with the Indians, or in whatever way might prove feasible;

but, in truth, it was by no means clear to my mind how it was to be

accomplished; it was, therefore, with great relief that I learned

from the Chilian lieutenant that a small expedition was about to be

despatched by the governor to Santa Cruz in pursuit of some runaways

from among the deserters who were serving their term of punishment in

the colony. He suggested that the Commandante would, doubtless, give

permission to accompany this party; and, without delay, I accompanied

him on shore, and was introduced to Commandante Señor Viel.

Nothing could exceed the kindness and courtesy with which the

Commandante entered into my plans; he at once not only gave me

permission to accompany the party, but, unasked, offered me the use

of a horse, and told me not to trouble myself about the commissariat

for the road. It was possible, however, that the deserters might be

overtaken in the Pampas, in which case the party would return without

proceeding as far as Santa Cruz; he therefore advised me to secure

the services of some one acquainted with the route, who could act as

guide in the event of our having to proceed without the rest of our

companions.

I was afterwards introduced to Señora Viel, a fair Limena possessing all

the proverbial charms of the ladies of Lima, and who bemoaned bitterly

the isolation and ennui of life at Punta Arenas; she had literally no

equals of her own sex, and scarcely any of the other, to speak to. Señor

Viel had formerly commanded a Chilian ironclad, instead of which he had

accepted the government of this distant colony; his zeal and energy

in discharging the duties of his office were unceasing, and his naval

habits asserted themselves in the strictness of discipline maintained,

which was absolutely necessary to keep in order the motley population.

But as a residence, viewed from a social point of view, Punta Arenas

must have been unimaginably dull. The Commandante kindly pressed me to

make his house my home, promising quarters for the night--which his own

limited accommodation could not supply--in an adjacent house. So after

two days, agreeably spent in the interchange of courtesies and visits, I

bade adieu to my shipmates, who were to sail at daylight for the Western

Straits, and removed myself and traps to a wooden house close to the

Cuartel, the quarters of Don Centeno, the engineer in charge of the

Government works. The next morning, accompanied by Captain Cushing, of

the schooner Rippling Wave, I set out to procure some few necessary

supplies, and make inquiries for a guide. We bent our steps to the

store of a man named Guillermo, and after purchasing tobacco and other

necessaries, the talk turned on gold, of which Don Guillermo showed us

some specimens, obtained from the banks of a neighbouring stream. One of

the crew of the Rippling Wave grew greatly excited and exclaimed, 'Ah,

that's the stuff we used to grub up in a creek in Californy; I guess if

the old boat lays her bones on these here shores, I'll stop and turn to

digging again.' Hanging up in the store were some Indian bolas and a

belt made of beads, studded with silver bosses, which the owner informed

me was a woman's girdle, and, with the bolas, had been left in pawn by

the Indians. They had not, however, visited the colony, at least for

trading purposes, for several months, as they had taken umbrage about a

dispute between a Chilian and an Indian, in which they considered their

comrade to have been treated with injustice. The party described by Mr.

Cunningham evidently arrived with doubtful intentions, and the tact

displayed by Señor Viel removed their resentment. This information

explained what had previously mystified me, viz., that nothing was to be

seen or heard of the Indians with whom I had hoped to make acquaintance.

My good fortune in arriving on the eve of the departure of the

expedition, and the Commandante's courtesy, were now even more keenly

appreciated by me, as otherwise I should have been simply stranded in

Punta Arenas. The guide difficulty was not long of solution, although,

from the natural dislike of most of the unofficial population to take

part in the recapture of runaways, it had seemed rather perplexing.

After we had quitted the store, we were accosted by a man named J'aria,

who came to offer his services. A short examination of his knowledge

and recommendations proving satisfactory, he was engaged on terms which

certainly were far from exorbitant, and he deserves to have it recorded

that he fully earned his pay. My equipments and preparations for the

journey were now made complete by the thoughtful good nature of Captain

Cushing, with whom I proceeded on board his vessel, where he provided

from his stores, and forced on my acceptance, several most useful

articles; and it is pleasant to be able to publish my sense of the

kindness received from one of our American cousins, who are always ready

to sympathise with and befriend a Britisher, at least according to my

experience.

A stroll of inspection round the settlement was extended to the

saw-mill, not far distant, worked by water-power; where, under the

direction of Mr. Wells, an American, the trees when cut down are

converted into boards to build the houses that take the place of the

forest. Proceeding thence to the half-cleared outskirts, we found the

Commandante supervising numerous labourers, principally of the convict

class, who were busily engaged in felling trees, clearing stumps,

and otherwise preparing the way for the future development of the

settlement.

To anyone unaccustomed to frontier towns, the _coup-d'œil_ of the

town presented an irregular and random growth of wooden houses; but the

plan which was indicated in outline was laid out after the usual Spanish

American fashion, as originally prescribed by the Council of the Indies.

A main street ran near and parallel to the beach, crossing a large

vacant square--the Plaza, out of which, and at regular intervals from

the main street, ran other embryo streets intersecting at right angles,

so that the houses, whenever they should be built, would form blocks

or 'cuadros.' In the Plaza were the church and a large unfinished

school-house. Chilian ideas as to the public duty of education are

advanced, and the schoolmaster is a state functionary, combining at this

time at Punta Arenas the duties of secretary to the Governor with those

proper to his office. The excellent sketch of Staff-Commander Bedwell

(Cunningham, 'Straits of Magellan,' p. 70) shows the Governor's house

nearly at the end of the main street, and beyond it was the Cuartel, a

palisadoed inclosure, containing the barracks, the gaol or lock-up, and

the guard-house, irreverently termed by the officers of the Nassau 'The

Punch and Judy House,' and shown in the same sketch.

From this a constant look-out is maintained, and a light displayed

at night. The transverse streets, running up almost to the uncleared

forest, were only indicated by scattered houses, and in the line of the

main street two or three detached dwellings a mile distant were only

separated from the trees by patches of potato ground.

The first penal colony planted in the Straits by the Chilian Government

was established in 1843, at Port Famine, the ominous name of which

recalls the miserable fate of the colonists left there by Sarmiento in

1581. The superior anchorage was the inducement to select the same place

for the modern colony, but the same evil destiny seemed to cling to it.

After struggling on for some years, during which the inhabitants were

frequently reduced to great distress by the failure of supplies of food

from Chili, it was sacked and destroyed by the convicts, who mutinied

and killed the Governor and Padre. They afterwards seized a vessel in

which they attempted to escape, but were pursued by a man-of-war, and

met with deserved punishment.

The colony was subsequently removed to its present position, and in

addition to the involuntary immigrants, chiefly deserters from the army,

settlers were tempted by liberal grants of land, and a large number of

Chilotes or natives of Chiloe were introduced. These men, who are of

mixed Spanish and Indian blood, are a hardy, sturdy race, accustomed

to the use of the axe in their own thickly-wooded country, whence they

export quantities of timber. They are very Paddies in their diet, living

almost altogether on potatoes, which grow freely in Chiloe, but in Punta

Arenas do not attain large size. Besides land, the Chilotes receive

wages from the Government for their labour, and are the most industrious

portion of the population: the men are hard working, but also hard

drinking, and the women are said to be very lax in their notions of

fidelity. Of the convicts, some were allowed, for good behaviour, to

live in their own houses, subject to certain restrictions; but many of

them were utterly reckless, and needed to be kept under the strictest

surveillance, and locked up in the Cuartel every night. Notwithstanding

all precautions, escapes are continually contrived, and the runaways

face the difficulties of the Pampas, sometimes succeeding in joining the

Patagonians, but as often losing their way, and perishing of starvation,

or becoming a prey to the pumas. Thus, ten or a dozen had succeeded

in escaping just before my visit, necessitating the despatch of the

expedition in chase of them. The garrison consisted of some fifty or

sixty regular soldiers, besides irregular employés, who hunt wild

cattle or deserters, as occasion requires. The number of troops is quite

insufficient to defend the place against an attack of the Indians, but

the southern Tehuelches are not naturally inclined to raids, and if well

and fairly treated are more willing to avail themselves of the trading

facilities afforded by the half-dozen stores, the existence of which

could only, in my mind, be accounted for by the hopes of Indian barter,

for they were far in excess of the wants of the colony. Still the

permanent population was certainly a thirsty one, and seemed to do its

best to encourage trade, at least in grog: drunkenness in the streets

is, however, an offence punishable by imprisonment, and at the time of

my visit the blacksmith was in durance vile, whence the Irish Doctor had

only just been released for this venial offence.

There appeared to be little cultivation, with the exception of potatoes.

The climate does not permit wheat or barley to ripen, though, perhaps,

oats or rye might succeed. The tame cattle seemed to me stunted and

miserable, but in the forests there are others of a wild breed, which

are said to be large and of excellent quality; these, as well as the

red deer, afford, during some portion of the year, occupation to a few

hunters, who obtain high prices for their meat, but the supply is too

scanty and irregular to prevent fresh meat from being a rare luxury. The

resources and prospects of the colony naturally formed the subject of

conversation at Señor Viel's, and Don Centeno, who was in charge of the

survey of the newly-discovered coal bed in the vicinity, invited me to

join him the next day in a visit of inspection.

Next morning we accordingly set out, and crossing a small stream,

shortly arrived at the commencement of the forest, through which a

straight road was in course of formation. Numerous groups of Chilotes

were employed on all sides, some levelling the way already cleared,

others at work felling trees, others applying fire instead of the axe.

The timber consists chiefly of Chilian beech (Fagus antarctica) and

Winter's bark, described by Mr. Cunningham, the former of which splits

readily and is available for most purposes.

After Don Centeno had completed some minor details of surveying, we

struck into the dense forest, and followed a winding path until we

arrived at the bed of the stream, which debouches at the colony. This

we followed up for some time, and eventually arrived at a ravine, the

sides of which were as regular as if navvies had been employed to form a

cutting, in which, at a point sixty yards above our heads, the seam of

coal was visible. Here we dismounted and scrambled up a slippery path to

a spot where a shaft, or rather burrow, had been driven into the bed,

to the depth of perhaps fifty or sixty feet, made apparently for the

purpose of examining the quality, regularity, &c., of the seam. The coal

did not appear to me of a very good quality; but I have since heard that

it gave exceedingly favourable results. My companion also pointed out

to me a place in the opposite bank where some men had been washing for

gold, the specimens of which I had seen in the town; and their labours

were said to have been attended with good returns. As the day was

advancing and rather chilly, a fire was kindled; and after a warm

thereat, mounting our horses, we returned homewards down the ravine. On

emerging from the forest, we observed a large steamer just on the point

of anchoring; so we hurried on to obtain news and despatch our letters

if it should prove the Magalhaens--one of the line of packets from

Liverpool to Valparaiso. On the beach we found the Commandante and Mrs.

Viel, the latter having visited the vessel and obtained some English

newspapers. After dinner, accepting the Governor's offer of his boat, I

proceeded on board, and found her to be a magnificent steamer of great

power and good accommodation. The establishment of this line of steamers

will doubtless have a most beneficial effect on the prosperity of Punta

Arenas; as, though agriculture and Indian trade are not likely to reward

industrious or speculative immigrants, the discovery of the coal-bed is

of the most obvious importance as affecting the future of this colony.

It will now be possible to maintain powerful steam-tugs to tow

sailing-vessels through the Straits, and thus avoid the passage round

Cape Horn; whereas up to the present time the navigation of the Straits

has been almost closed to sailing-ships; while, owing to the great

steam-power required, even steamers, whether war or merchant ships, are

frequently obliged to buy wood at Sandy Point; and then, owing to the

vast quantity used to keep steam, not unfrequently are obliged to stop

again before entering the Pacific to renew their supply wherever they

could cut it. Now this will all be changed, and a steam-launch will

probably be kept to tow the lighters to and fro, and thus materially

facilitate coaling. As population and colonisation increase, encouraged

by the accommodation afforded by the Pacific steamers--which at this

present date run every month, bringing the Straits of Magellan almost

within hail--the interior of the country may become opened up, in which

case, probably, other sources of mineral wealth will be discovered and

made productive.

Our departure having been definitely fixed for the morrow, I proceeded

to review and arrange my equipments for the journey, a list of which may

gratify intending explorers of Patagonia. Two saddle-bags contained my

kit and necessaries, consisting of a couple of shirts and a jersey

or two, a few silk handkerchiefs, and soap, lucifer matches, writing

materials, fishing lines and hooks, quinine and caustic, and a small

bottle of strychnine. The armoury comprised a rifle in case complete,

and two double-barrelled breech-loading pistols, hunting-knives, a small

ammunition-case of unfilled cartridges, and a supply of powder. The only

instrument ventured on was a small compass. My personal equipment was a

shooting suit of tweed and a Scotch cap, and a most excellent pair of

boots made by Thomas, to which for comfort were superadded a guanaco

skin mantle, two ponchos, and a waterproof sheet. In the evening Señor

Viel introduced me to my future travelling companion, Lieutenant

Gallegos, who was to command our party. He was a short, thick-set man,

with a dark, almost Indian complexion, and looked all over what the

Commandante declared him to be, 'a man for hard work.' In his native

province of Arauco he had been for many years employed in the frontier

wars with the Indians, and could handle the lazo or the lance with

wonderful dexterity. He spoke with great cordiality of the officers of

the Nassau, and seemed well inclined to the company of one of the same

service; indeed, I am strongly inclined to believe that he is introduced

into the foreground of Commander Bedwell's sketch--at all events, if any

reader wishes to know his appearance, the occupant of the fallen

tree presents a strong resemblance to the leader of our party. Our

arrangements and prospects were fully discussed; and after bidding

farewell to Captain Cushing, who was to sail the next day, and to my

most kind and courteous host and hostess, we parted, agreeing to meet at

daylight ready for the road.

At an early hour of the morning of the 19th of April I was awoke by

J'aria, and with him and my small belongings proceeded to the Corral,

where the horses were being caught and loaded. Here we were joined by

Gallegos, and when everything was nearly ready for the start adjourned

to his house close by for a cup of coffee. The Señora seemed to regard

me with great commiseration, and recounted various dismal tales of the

dreadful cold winds, hardships, Indians, and other disagreeables to be

encountered; her consolations were cut short by the entrance of J'aria

with the news that all was ready. After a parting glass of something

stronger than water, we got into our saddles, and the cavalcade,

consisting of Gallegos, myself, one regular soldier, three irregulars or

employés of the Government, and J'aria, with twenty-one horses, left the

town. As we passed the cuartel, the guard turned out in the balcony and

presented arms, and the bugler executed a musical salute. It was a fine

frosty morning, and we rode on in high spirits, accompanied by two or

three horsemen, who were going to spend their Sunday festa in duck

shooting, and had made an early start to escort us a little way.

Scarcely had we crossed the stream when one of the baggage horses kicked

his load off; this was soon replaced; but when the bustle was over and

the cavalcade reformed, J'aria and one of the employés, to whom I had

confidingly entrusted a bottle of rum, were missing, and they did not

turn up again for some time, and the bottle never again. We rode along

the coast until we reached the outpost called Tres Puentes, where a

narrow pass, between the forest on one hand and the sea on the other,

is barred by a gate house tenanted by two men, posted there to prevent

desertion; they turned out, and we lingered for a farewell chat, during

which one of the sportsmen stalked and shot some ducks; at the report of

his gun the regular soldier's horse, not being used to stand fire, shied

and threw him, capsizing his saddle-bags, and strewing the beach with

tortillas (cakes) and coffee, with which his no doubt provident and

thoughtful 'she' had stored them. Gallegos sat in his saddle and laughed

at the scene; but as the others could not catch the horse, he gave us a

proof of his dexterity with the lazo. After this little diversion we

pursued our course along the beach as far as Cape Negro, where the

forests terminated, and our accompanying friends bade us adieu after

taking a parting glass all round; J'aria and the other absentee

overtaking us in time for this part of the performance.

Our horses' heads were then turned from the coast in a north north-west

direction, and after half-an-hour's ride a halt was called for breakfast

under the lee of a sheltering hill. To the southward we viewed the

counter slope of the wooded hills, below which on the other side lay

Punta Arenas. A thick growth of shrubs covered the ground, but beautiful

glades of luxuriant pasture were visible; one of which opened just to

the south of our camping place, and others appeared east and west like

oases of green. Their appearance caused me to remark that as a settler I

should choose this location for my hut. Gallegos, however, replied that

the pastures could not be used for the cattle of the settlement during

the summer, as neither the Indians nor their own men could be trusted;

the latter would desert, and the former would steal the beasts. After

a pipe we remounted, and having crossed the hill we descended to the

valley of a small but deep stream, called the Rio Chaunco, having forded

which we ascended the opposite border slope, and entered on the Pampa,

which name is universally used in Patagonia to designate the high

undulating plains or plateaux, frequently intersected by valleys and

ravines, or rising into successive or isolated hills, which generally

occupy the crest of the country. The Indians, indeed, who know a little

Castilian, apply the word Pampa indiscriminately to any tract of country

hunted over by them. After a successful day's sport, and the contentment

consequent on a hearty meal, they will ask with great satisfaction, 'Muy

buena Pampa? No?' really meaning 'Is not the wild life the best?' But

English readers, who have derived their idea of a Pampa from Head's

delightful work, or from other experiences of the unlimited grassy

or thistle covered plains which roll away for miles in the Argentine

States, and offer no obstruction to the stretching gallop of the

untiring gaucho, must not transfer that pleasing picture to Patagonia.

The Pampas, properly so called, of Patagonia, occasionally indeed

present a tolerably even and uniform succession of rolling plains

covered with coarse grass, but more frequently the surface, even when

unbroken by hills and suddenly yawning ravines, is sterile, with a

sparse vegetation, consisting of stunted bushes and round thistle

clumps; and even these are often wanting, and nothing clothes the bare

patches of clay or gravel; elsewhere it is strewn with huge round

boulders, and again rugged with confused heaps or ridges of bare

sharp-edged rocks, many of them of volcanic origin: this more

particularly applying to the northern part of the country. The only

uniformity of appearance is afforded in the winter, when the white sheet

of snow covers rocks, grass, and shingle; but one accompaniment is the

same, whatever be the nature of the soil or surface; and the word Pampa

invariably recalls to one's shuddering memory the cutting blasts which

sweep almost without intermission from various points, but chiefly from

the west, over the high country, till, reaching the heated atmosphere of

Buenos Ayres, the cold Patagonian wind becomes the Pampero, the sudden

and terrific blasts of which cause so many disasters among the shipping.

The descent from these Pampas to the valleys, or more sheltered and

fertile level ground bordering the banks of the streams and rivers, is

commonly termed 'Barranca,' or bank, from the scarped slopes, varying in

depth from fifty to two or three feet, and in angle from an easy to an

almost perpendicular descent, but often fissured by ravines or gullies,

affording roads, down all of which, however, the native riders gallop

with equal recklessness.

The Pampa we were now traversing presented an expanse of undulating

or rolling plains covered with a uniform growth of coarse grass

interspersed with barberry bushes, and occasional lagoons in the

hollows. No living creatures except ourselves appeared on the waste.

To the westward the snow-clad peaks of the mountains bordering the

Sarmiento Straits greeted us with an icy blast which made my thoughts

longingly revert to the cosy cabin and my late shipmates, who were, no

doubt, threading the intricacies of its channels. But the good guanaco

mantle kept out the wind, and our motley party pushed briskly on in

good order. Lieutenant Gallegos has been already introduced: as to

the others, J'aria was a small man, of rough exterior, of doubtful

extraction, and more than doubtful antecedents, who looked fit for

any business except good; but he served me most assiduously, and with

unlooked-for care. The soldier was a fine-looking fellow, new to the

Pampas, whose carbine, which he duly carried, proved a source of great

embarrassment to him; and his horse being by no means too manageable, he

was considerably bothered, much to the delight of the rest. Two others

were hybrids, between gauchos and sailors, having, like our marines,

been equally accustomed to service _per mare, per terram_; but, like the

jollies, they were unmistakeably useful and good men. The last of the

party was of the J'aria type. All were well mounted, and provided with a

spare horse. We carried for provisions biscuit, charqui or dried meat,

roasted wheat meal, and coffee and sugar, and were furnished with an

unusual but welcome luxury, a small tent, underneath which we cared

little for the bitter frost outside.

After riding over the Pampas for three or four hours we encamped for the

night in a hollow by the side of a lagoon, having selected a suitable

spot for pitching the tent on the sheltered slope, well out of the sweep

of the wind. The lagoon was covered with black-necked swans and other

wild fowl; so, as soon as the horses had been unloaded and looked after,

a fire lit, and all arrangements made for camping, two or three of us

went out to try and shoot some wild fowl; but our sporting endeavours

were not crowned with much success, and a little before dark we

returned to a supper of charqui, and after a talk over the fire, turned

in, and slept sound and warm, though outside the frost was severe. My

mind was much disquieted, first by the discovery that the box of rifle

ammunition which J'aria carried had been dropped by that worthy at the

scene of the baggage horse escapade, and secondly, by the mysterious

absence from my shot-belt of all my coin, consisting of an onza and a

few sovereigns. I said nothing, however, until next morning, when I

proceeded quietly to search, remembering that I had taken off my

accoutrements before the tent was pitched, and dropped in the grass I

found the missing coins. The story afforded J'aria a great theme for

jokes, and he often adverted to the chance of inheriting my ounce, in

a way that might have made a timid traveller expect foul play, though

nothing was farther from my guide's thoughts. At seven o'clock, after

coffee and a biscuit, we were again _en route_, and about ten arrived

close to the head of Peckett's Harbour. Here one of the party discovered

a horse, which was chased into our troop, but as it appeared lame was

not pressed into our service; it had probably belonged to the Indians.

As in a long voyage, so in a journey of this description, the slightest

novelty serves to relieve what it is needless to say becomes the

slightly monotonous task of trotting along behind the troop of horses

over barren wastes, so we were always on the _qui vive_ for something

to chase. One of the men had a dog with him, and shortly after the

excitement about the horse we started some ostriches, which, however,

proved too swift for the cur, and escaped over some muddy plots close to

the 'Cabecera del Mar.' This is a large inlet or arm of the sea, running

up some miles from Peckett's Harbour, with which it communicates by a

very narrow channel, which can only be crossed at low water; it was our

good fortune to arrive at this period, thus escaping a long _détour_

round the inlet. But our crossing was not effected without trouble; the

flood-tide rushing up like a mill-race, and proving almost too much for

the steadiness of one of the baggage-horses. After clearing the channel,

in our farther progress we passed several small streams with swampy

ground, all of which probably discharge themselves into Oazy Harbour,

and arrived towards evening at an old Indian encampment situated under

a range of hills, running more or less north and south, forming one

barrier of a broad and well-watered valley, bounded on the eastern side

by the well-known 'Barrancas' of San Gregorio.

Our station was just within the opening of the valley, which, being

sheltered from the wind, is the favourite winter quarters of the

Southern Tehuelches, whose encampment is usually pitched near Oazy

Harbour, called by them 'Ozay Saba.'

Westward the low flats which bordered the shores of the Cabecera del

Mar terminated in irregular hills, beyond which higher peaks rose, and

they in their turn were overlooked by distant snow-clad summits on the

horizon. Among the blue hills of the middle distance floated wreaths of

light haze so much resembling smoke that Gallegos, ever on the alert

for signs of the deserters, proposed to deviate from our route to

investigate, and only my strongly pronounced opinion in favour of haze

_versus_ smoke induced him to give up the idea. The Argentine Government

formerly planned a settlement in this valley, which was not carried out,

and the missionaries also proposed to fix a station hereabouts, with

Oazy Harbour as a depôt, but the Chilians of Punta Arena set up their

claims and compelled the missionaries to desist.

After camp was arranged, the weather, which since our start had been

bright with cold winds and moderate frosts at night, changed to rain,

and Gallegos proposed to me that, in the event of its continuing bad,

we should remain under the shelter of the tent. However, though the

night was rough and rainy, morning broke fair and the sun rose bright

and warm, so we started, following a path along the base of the

before-mentioned range of hills until about ten o'clock, when, just

after passing a beautiful little stream where I noticed fish darting

about in the pools, a herd of guanaco, hitherto concealed by a small

eminence, came into view. Chase was immediately given, but most of our

horses were soon blown, and Gallegos, the soldier, and myself having

ascended the hills over which the herd had taken flight, as it appeared

useless to continue the chase, stopped on the crest and watched the

animals as they streamed up an opposite hill. One of the party was

missing, and suddenly an exclamation from the Lieutenant 'What is it?'

caused us to turn our eyes in the direction to which he pointed, where

some fancied they descried a man. The idea of deserters immediately

occurred to their minds, so they started off, asking me to tell J'aria

(who had remained with the horses) to travel on to a given spot at the

head of the valley. Having descended the hill, which was tunnelled with

burrows of the Ctenomys Magellanicus,[1] the crowns of which, yielding

to the horses' tread, proved a series of dangerous traps, I rejoined

J'aria and we pursued our way for a few miles until we reached a small

lagoon at the head of the valley, covered with thousands of widgeon and

duck. The sight suggested the thought that no man need starve in this

country, so abundant seemed the supplies of animal life. Here we waited,

and in the course of half-an-hour the remainder came up with their

horses blown, one of the party having a piece of guanaco meat hanging

to his saddle. This was José Marinero, one of the hybrids, who had

succeeded in lazoing a guanaco, at which he appeared intensely

delighted. The 'man,' as I had previously supposed, proved imaginary. I

regretted not being up at the death, as it turned out that José had

been close to us, but hidden from sight by a rise. After a pleasant and

refreshing rest and a draught of café Quillota (parched corn meal and

water), we resumed our route north. After leaving the lagoon, a scarcely

perceptible slope ascended from the valley, and a more undulating course

was traversed until we reached a small cañon, which, after a gradual

descent, dipped down between walls a hundred feet high, sloping up at

either hand, and finishing in a rounded summit leading to the high

plain. 'Here,' said J'aria, 'there is no firing, and those _stupid_

Indian women actually carry loads of it from the next stage.' But the

event proved that the Indians were wiser than ourselves. Following this

we arrived at another cañon running at right angles, east and west, on

one of the grass-covered sides of which we observed a couple of horses

feeding in a hollow which looked more verdant than the rest of the

ground, but the animals being caught and examined proved unsound and

useless. In the bottom of the cañon there flowed a small but deep stream

spreading into lagoons in places. We crossed this and encamped on the

northern side, and found J'aria's words, as to no fuel to be found about

this valley, verified, much to our discomfort. Towards evening we went

out and shot some ducks, but having no fire to cook with, were content

to turn in on meal and water. During the night the tent pole, having

been first soaked with rain and then frozen, snapped in two, and down

came the spread of wet canvas; and altogether we did not spend a very

pleasant time.

[1] Cunningham, p. 133.

Misfortunes never come single; at daylight no horses were to be seen,

and we had to wait until near ten o'clock before they turned up. During

this interval we burnt the tent pegs and some chips from the tent pole,

and raised sufficient fire to make coffee. J'aria informed me that this

cañon extends from the Cordillera to the sea, but runs in a tortuous

manner, and we afterwards again struck either the main line or some

cañon leading from it. Having scaled the precipitous banks, we headed

towards a range of peaked hills, curiously resembling one another, and

after passing down one or two more cañons, where we refreshed ourselves

with the berries of a barberry (Berberis axifolia), called by the

Chilians califate, and also saw plenty of the red and white tea-berries,

so common in the Falklands, we entered a wide plain or valley, at the

farther end of which rose a peculiar pointed hill, one of a range that

stretched away east and west, pierced by a pass. In the midst of it a

huge square flat rock shone white in the sunlight, forming a striking

object: it looked like a megalith, deposited by giants to cover the

grave of some deceased hero. Others of less dimensions lay strewn here

and there, giving somewhat of a graveyard aspect to the scene. As we

advanced the ground was encumbered with rocks and scoriæ, lying in heaps

in all directions, making it very difficult travelling for the horses,

and on arriving at the hills themselves their appearance was decidedly

volcanic. The whole immediate vicinity of this range of hills presented

a peculiarly wild, blasted, and weird appearance; nevertheless ostriches

and guanaco were observable in great quantities. My first thought on

passing one hill, where, among the other fantastic forms into which

the rocks had been tossed, was a natural corral, or circle of huge

fragments, built with apparent regularity, but of superhuman dimensions,

was, 'What a hell this must have been when the volcanoes were in an

active state, belching out the streams of lava and showers of rock, and

that perhaps at no distant period!' While at Santa Cruz, Casimiro told

me of an active volcano situated at a distance and in a direction which

would fix it as belonging to this range. Formerly its neighbourhood had

been frequented by the Indians, as the guanaco resorted thither in great

numbers during the winter; but the Indians' horses had most of them been

poisoned by drinking the water of a stream close to the range, and soon

after all the toldos were shaken down by an earthquake or the vibration

of an explosion, and since then they had not ventured to go near the

place. Casimiro and Gonzalez had, however, subsequently ascended the

volcano, and had killed numbers of guanaco in the neighbourhood. It was

also mentioned that when they were encamped on the Cuheyli, or Coy Inlet

River, tremendous volumes of thick black smoke, rolling from the west,

enveloped the Indians and terrified them exceedingly. No signs were

afterwards found of burned pasture, and it was conjectured that the

Canoe Indians of the Chonos Archipelago had fired the western forests,

but it was much more likely to have been due to volcanic eruption. While

trotting along the defile through these hills formed by a chasm, with

perpendicular walls of rock rising on each hand, as evenly scarped as

the sides of a railway cutting, I observed several caves, which J'aria

had a tradition the Indians formerly used as dwelling places. This pass

led into another valley still more rugged and strewn with sharp angular

fragments of rock, amongst which stunted shrubs began to appear; and

lagoons, some of which were encrusted round the edges with saltpetre,

and contained brackish water, might be seen at intervals. Towards

evening we encamped by the side of a small lagoon of circular form,

with wall-like cliffs rising some 200 feet from its banks, and nearly

surrounding it. I took a stroll, rifle in hand, whilst the men were

getting firewood; and plenty of guanaco were visible, but I only

succeeded in wounding one, which escaped on three legs. Traces of a

puma, in the shape of carrion, were also there, but Leon himself was

hidden. So I returned empty-handed to the fire, where I found a cheerful

supper of wild duck and guanaco meat just ready. The moon was beautiful,

and the air just frosty enough to be bracing and exhilarating, so some

of us staid smoking and spinning yarns until the small hours. The

stories were chiefly of adventures on the Pampas. José narrated how,

when in pursuit of a party of runaways in the depth of winter, when the

snow lay thick on the ground, he and his comrade rode into a valley

where countless guanaco had taken refuge from the storm in the upper

heights, and stood huddled together, too benumbed by the cold to attempt

to escape, and were slaughtered like oxen in the shambles. In another

hunt the party overtook the deserters, housed in the toldo of an Indian,

and a fight ensued, ending in the death of one of the pursuers; the

deserter who shot him was pistolled, and J'aria and José carried the

dead body of their comrade on horseback to the settlement, sixty

miles distant, proceeding without a halt all through the night, and

accomplishing their ghastly journey by the next morning. J'aria related

how he had been drifted in a launch among the ice in the Straits, and

carried over to Tierra del Fuego, where they found rocks so magnetic

that iron nails adhered to them. He further amused us by a short

dissertation on his domestic arrangements; how, when his last wife

died, he married a Chilote to be mother for his children and wife for

him, and he always called her in conversation the 'Madre Muger'--wife

mother.

Next morning we started early, and varying our march with one or two

races after foxes, which generally met their death in a very short time,

and an engagement with a female puma, which one of the men despatched by

a splendid revolver shot through the head, traversed some uneven Pampas,

with occasional hills, and arrived at the descent of the valley of the

Rio Gallegos, where the very remarkable bench formation, afterwards

observed on a smaller or larger scale in other Patagonian rivers, first

arrested my attention. To the west, some miles away, a high hill,

apparently of basalt, the square summit of which with seemingly regular

walls and towers mimicked the distant view of an extensive fortress,

served as a landmark for the break in the barranca, which formed a

natural road, by which we reached the first or upper bench, a mile and a

half in width; from this a drop or scarped slope of 50 feet and upwards

descended to another terrace or plain of equal extent, and terminating

in another fall, at the bottom of which lay the bed of the river; it is

fordable in the summer months, I believe, in many places, but when we

crossed the water about reached where one's saddle flaps would be if

riding on an English saddle. After crossing the ford a halt took place

to smoke a pipe, whilst doing which we watched the gyrations of a huge

vulture of the condor species; he hovered for some time, and at length

boldly settled on a point of rock about a hundred yards distant; so the

soldier, whose carbine was always ready, took a shot, but missed, much

to the grief of Gallegos, who asserted that the heart of the vulture is

a good remedy for certain diseases. We then mounted, and riding about a

mile halted for the night by a spring gushing out of a ravine in the

slope between the upper and lower benches, where the pasture was good,

as J'aria declared that water was scarce for some leagues farther on.

The bivouac arranged, José and myself proceeded to try and shoot a

guanaco, but the plain was too open, so, after lighting up a bed of dry

grass to attract any neighbouring Indians, we very foolishly indulged in

a bathe in the river. The water was intensely cold, and the ill effects

of this ill-timed indulgence were felt for a long time after. The

soldier meanwhile was away on horseback chasing a large herd, but he

returned about dusk empty handed. Next morning we started about 9

o'clock, having been, as usual, delayed by the horses having strayed

some distance. Ascending the slope we crossed the higher bench, a

barren, dreary waste, for about a league, until we came to a lagoon

covered with upland geese, and lying just below what may be termed the

barranca of the Upper Pampa. Halting here for a smoke and warm to dispel

the effects of the intensely cold wind, we were about resuming our route

to ascend the steep slope of the upper plains, when large columns of

smoke, in answer to the signal fire we had left behind us, rose up to

the sky in a N.E. direction. We moved on, and arriving at the summit of

the ascent, looked eagerly round for signs of the fire, but nothing

was visible. The plains lay before us apparently destitute of life,

excepting a stray guanaco here and there. J'aria then set light to a

neighbouring bush, which gave out dense clouds of black smoke, and in a

few minutes this was answered in the same direction as that previously

observed. A horseman was at length espied galloping towards us, who

proved to be an Indian named Sam, son of the chief Casimiro, who has

been mentioned in the missionary reports. After conversing for a short

time with J'aria and Gallegos, he turned to me and said, in English,

'How do you do? I speak little Anglishe,' which he had learned during

a visit to the Falklands, where also he had acquired his sobriquet of

Sam Slick. He then galloped away at full speed, and brought up his

companions, who had been concealed from view in a neighbouring hollow;

the party consisted of two men and a boy, and two women, all mounted,

and apparently having just finished hunting, as they had plenty of fresh

guanaco meat with them. We halted by a bush, and in a few minutes had a

fire kindled, and the pipe being handed round, I had an opportunity of

observing them closely. The men were fine muscular specimens. One, whom

they called Henrique, was a Fuegian, formerly, I believe, a captive, but

now doctor, or wizard. He travelled with this party separate from the

remainder of the tribe on account of some suspicion of his having caused

the death of a chief. One of the men, taller than the others, was a

Tehuelche. The boy was bright looking and intelligent, and it afterwards

appeared that Don Luiz Buena had kept him for some time, vainly

endeavouring to teach him Spanish. They were very cordial, and

especially forced on me more meat than I could carry; but there was

a certain constraint visible in their manners, probably owing to their

being conscious of some dealings with the deserters, whom J'aria

counselled them to despatch whenever they might meet with them. The

women carried bottles of water, which they readily gave us, to our

great refreshment and relief, for we were all parched with thirst.

Gallegos asked Sam whether he was willing to guide us to Santa Cruz,

J'aria not being over certain of the route. The tracks made by the

guanacos are easily mistaken by almost anyone but an Indian for the

trail of 'chinas,' or caravans of women and laden horses; and this,

combined with the want of landmarks on the Pampas and the confusing

succession of hills closely resembling each other, renders it only

too easy to lose the right direction. As examples of this, out of ten

deserters of whom the party was in search, six were never more heard of.

Our guide J'aria himself, when travelling from Santa Cruz to the colony,

lost his way, and would inevitably have starved had he not fortunately

been fallen in with by a party of Indians. Sam having agreed to come

with our party, we bid adieu to the Indians, who, in return for their

presents of meat, were gratified with a little tobacco, and rode off.

Suddenly a fox started up from a neighbouring bush. The soldier giving

chase, Sam shouted, 'Stop, I'll show you:' at the same time putting

spurs to his horse, and cutting Reynard off, he put his hand to his

waist-belt, drew out his bolas, gave them two turns round his head,

and in another minute the fox was lying dead, with his ribs crushed

completely in where the metal hall had struck him. Under the directions

of our new guide, who rode ahead with me, we traversed a succession of

high barren plains, sinking into frequent irregular hollows, without

streams, but usually containing lagoons of salt or brackish water,

until, about 4 P.M., we descended into the valley of Rio Cuheyli, or

the river, which debouches at Coy Inlet. The bench formation, though

noticeable, is not here so decidedly marked. For some time we pursued

the trail in an orderly march; but an ostrich springing nearly under our

horses' feet, and escaping over some marshy swamp, where horses could

not follow, roused Sam's hunting propensities, and he proposed to

myself, the soldier, and José to leave the path--which he said, with

emphatic disdain, was good for women, not for men--and ride up the

barranca to see him ball an ostrich; so having regained the Pampa, we

formed into line, about two hundred yards apart, to drive a certain area

of ground down to a point where there was a gentle slope to the valley,

so as to meet the advancing cavalcade of the rest of our party. We saw

nothing except one ostrich vanishing at great speed towards the valley

at another point, and a pair of doves, which I remarked with interest;

so we returned to the track, and as night was closing in, pushed on,

wishing to cross the ford of the river and encamp on the other side. At

seven o'clock, having reached a nice spring flowing from the barranca,

where there was firewood in profusion, Gallegos ordered a halt, although

Sam wished to proceed, observing that the moon was so bright it was 'all

the same as day.' We accordingly encamped for the night, after making

a good supper off guanaco meat, which was a pleasant change after our

previous charqui. The valley of the Cuheyli slightly indicates the bench

formation, though it does not present so distinctly marked terraces as

those which border the Gallegos River; but the lowest or river plain,

which is nearly two leagues wide in the neighbourhood of the ford, is of

a more fertile character, the pasture being luxuriant and good. One or

two of the springs--notably the one the water of which, contrary to our

guide's advice and example, we drank--had a strong taste of iron, which

caused all the party to suffer from internal derangement; and Sam stated

that near our encampment there was a deposit of the black earth with

which the Indians paint their bodies. Starting early, after a night of

severe frost, we soon struck the ford. Our guide had vanished; but while

rearranging the packs, we saw a volume of black smoke rising to the

east, caused by Sam, who, having thus signalled his countrymen, rejoined

us on the march across the slightly ascending plain. We then observed

numerous Indians galloping in our direction, and crossing the stream at

various parts, as J'aria remarked, quite regardless of fords. We halted,

and were soon surrounded by about forty or more, most of them riding

useful-looking horses barebacked. As they appeared very friendly,

Gallegos gave them some biscuit and charqui; their chiefs--the head

cacique being a nephew of Casimiro--forming them into a semi-circle, in

tolerably good order, to receive the present. There were undoubtedly

some very tall men amongst them, but what struck me particularly was

their splendid development of chest and arms. Although the wind was very

sharp, many of them had their mantles thrown back in a careless way,

leaving their naked chests exposed to the air, and appeared not the

least incommoded. They readily recognised me for an Englishman, coming

and examining me closely, and asking for tobacco with a broad grin on

their faces, exposing a wonderfully clean and regular set of teeth. My

gratifying their importunate requests for tobacco made Sam very jealous,

and for some time he bothered me with remarks such as 'Me very cold,

no got poncho,' 'Me no got knife, me no got "pellon"' (saddle-cloth),

until, finding it useless to beg, he relapsed into sullen silence. A

smoke of the pipe, however, brought him back to his usual cheerful

temper, and as we galloped along he chanted an Indian song, which

consisted of the words 'Ah ge lay loo, Ah ge lay loo,' expressed in

various keys.

After a ride of some leagues in a rather more open but still undulating

country, a break in the Pampas was reached. Hills of irregular and

picturesque outlines, with labyrinthine valleys or ravines, not running

in parallel order, but communicating with each other, occupied an

extensive district, and though travelling was considerably more

difficult, yet the change in the aspect of nature was grateful after

the barren monotony of the plains.

We halted in an Indian encampment, situated in a valley underneath a

peaked hill called 'Otiti,' where there were pools of fresh and salt

water in close proximity. Amongst the incense and thorn bushes, which

grow at intervals in these regions, we passed to-day another description

of shrub with a thick rough bark, which is readily detached and leaves

a long rattail-like sort of twig. From the Rio Gallegos the soil had

become generally of a yellower colour than on the south side of that

river, although in the valleys and hollows dark peaty earth was

generally to be found, and the surface of the Pampas had assumed a more

desolate appearance, being strewn with small pebbles, and studded with

bushes--generally of a thorny species. Round clumps of prickly thistles,

which burn like tinder on applying a lighted match--and a few stray

tufts of withered grass, only made more desolate the hungry barrenness

of the deserts, over which the wind blew with cutting violence, yet they

are the home of large herds of guanaco, ostriches, puma, and armadillo,

though the latter were at this period comfortably hybernating.

Next morning no horses were visible, and as time went on till ten

o'clock without any appearance we all began to suspect Indian treachery.

Sam volunteered the remark that if they (the Indians) had played us

such a trick, he would go and clear all their animals out the following

evening. This threat there was fortunately no occasion for him to put

into execution, as the troop proved only to have strayed into another

valley. As we were now nearing Santa Cruz, which the last of the Indians

were just leaving, having completed their trade and finished all the

grog, we saw numerous columns of smoke, caused by their hunting parties.

After passing the broken ground and reaching the high Pampa, Sam and

myself rode on ahead, amusing ourselves by fruitlessly chasing guanaco

or ostrich, but Sam's dexterity with the bolas was frustrated by his

being mounted on a horse belonging to the expedition and unused to this

work. Towards evening, after again passing numerous salt lagoons, we

came to a descent of 300 or 400 feet leading to a valley containing a

large salina, and halting, made our fire by the side of a spring,

near which, Sam informed me, were the graves of two Indians, which he

mentioned with the deepest respect and in an awe-stricken undertone.

Our signal smoke, which was as much to attract Indians as to give the

direction of our route to Gallegos and J'aria, was soon responded to

from the opposite hills on the northern side of the valley, and shortly

a line of mounted women and children descended the slope in front,

making for our fire, which Sam informed me was their intended camping

place. We advanced to meet them, and Sam conversed in their tongue,

interpreting to me that they had left Santa Cruz two days previously,

and that Don Luiz P. B. had quitted his settlement on the island to sail

in his schooner to Buenos Ayres; while the Northern Indians, encamped to

the north of Santa Cruz, with whom I hoped to proceed to the Rio Negro,

had no intention of marching until the ensuing spring. On leaving those

ladies, amongst whom was a young and rather pretty girl, I lifted my cap

in salute, which called forth a burst of laughter from the whole group

and cries of 'Anglish, Anglish!' amidst which we rode off to join the

remainder of our party, who were crossing the valley to the eastward,

having intentionally deviated from the straight route; and although Sam

used every effort to induce Gallegos to stop at the Indian encampment,

the latter wisely determined to proceed about a league farther, knowing

that a halt here would cause a considerable inroad to be made in the

stock of provisions, which, in view of the return journey, with perhaps

an increased party, it was desirable to avoid. We accordingly left the

sheltered valley and encamped on the plateau in an exposed situation

near a lagoon, the ice of which had to be broken to secure a supply

of water. The frost was keen, and the tent afforded but a partial

protection from the biting wind; so that the economical foresight of

our leader resulted in all the party spending the coldest night hitherto

experienced by us.

During the evening we were visited by several Indians, bringing presents

of ostrich and guanaco meat. I was presented by the soldier with a piece

of the gizzard (the tid bit), which he had cooked on the end of his

ramrod; but I must confess I did not appreciate it at the time, though

later on in my journey I learnt to relish this and other strange

delicacies. Amongst the Indians who gave us the benefit of their company

this evening was 'Pedro el Platero,' mentioned in Mr. Gardener's mission

book; also an old squaw rejoicing in the name of 'La Reina Victoria'

(Queen Victoria), who was the occasion of much chaff, my Chilian friends

declaring I ought to salute the sovereign of the Pampas in due form; but

having obtained a charge and a light for her pipe, all she required, she

was soon lost sight of in the dark. We gladly left the camp early the

ensuing morning, the cold continuing unabated; the wind blew strong

in our faces, and though from the northward, was so keen that Sam and

myself kept galloping on and kindling fires at intervals.

Thus we rode on over a tract of country surpassing in desolation all the

districts hitherto traversed. As far as the eye could reach stretched a

level waste unrelieved by even an eminence or hollow; the aspect of the

low withered shrubs, coarse parched grass, and occasional patches of

pebble-strewn ground which for thirty miles wearied the eye with dreary

sameness, produced an extraordinary feeling of depression, which was

afterwards recalled when journeying through the Travisia, bordering the

Rio Negro, which this district resembles, though on a smaller scale.

Occasional frozen lagoons, doubtless supplied by rainfall, only added to

the desert aspect of this trackless wilderness. The situation was not

improved by Sam pulling up and remarking that he was by no means sure

that he had not lost himself. The only variety was afforded by an

unlucky fox which we chased till he escaped, as he thought, on to the

ice of a lagoon, but the treacherous surface gave way, and poor Reynard,

after a vigorous struggle, sank out of reach of a lazo. At last, about

two o'clock, the desert terminated in a cliff rising from the valley at

our feet, and we looked down upon the winding river of the Santa Cruz.

Having waited till the rest came up, we descended by a gorge to the

valley, when, after refreshing ourselves by a drink of water, we struck

into a trail which followed the river downwards. We were all in high

spirits at the prospect of a speedy and felicitous conclusion to our

journey; and J'aria was continually questioned as to the distance of

the settlement. His answer was invariably 'a league;' and we rode along

vainly expecting every moment to see the place, rounding innumerable

promontories or points where the barranca advanced into the valley.

Each of these projecting cliffs, which stood like outposts of the

Pampas, J'aria declared in succession to be the last, Sam all the while

maintaining a dignified silence, until at length, at 7.30, when we had

almost despaired of ever arriving, we came to the ford opposite the

island of the settlement, and a barking of dogs saluted our ears. After

Sam had hailed, an answer came back, that if we were going across that

night we must look sharp, as the tide was flowing. We accordingly

proceeded to cross at once, narrowly escaping having to swim our horses,

which on a cold frosty night would have been anything but a pleasant

business.

My ideas as to the size and extent of the settlement--and it must be

confessed my visions of a 'cheerer,' and even of wine, to put some

warmth into my chilled frame--were sadly dispelled by the reality; the

thriving, though small, town of my imagination being represented by one

house, and all wine and liquor proving to have been exhausted. But this

was fully made up for by discovering in Mr. Clarke--or, as the Indians

called him, 'Clakalaka'--an old acquaintance, whom I had known some

years previously in the Falklands. His utter surprise at the sudden

appearance of one whom he thought far away may be imagined. But, to my

great delight, he thoroughly approved of the proposed excursion. His

cordial welcome and hot coffee soon cheered up our spirits, and when

warmed and rested we discussed my plans. It appeared that the Indians

had not reported wrong as to Don Luiz Buena's movements and the

intentions of the Northern party; but Mr. Clarke believed that the

schooner was still detained in the river mouth waiting for a fair wind,

and undertook to send off a messenger to communicate with him: my object

being to obtain permission to reside in the settlement until the return

of the schooner, so as to equip myself with stores as presents for the

Tehuelches. After an agreeable 'confab,' I turned in on a shakedown on

the floor, well satisfied with having accomplished the first stage,

and deriving a good omen for the remainder of the journey from this

successful trip to Santa Cruz.