No single activity of the forest has grown so rapidly in recent years as
recreation. The forest is ideally adapted to recreational use because of
the rough, majestic, and undeveloped character of its wilderness where
most travel must be done with a horse and pack outfit. It is truly a
forest with a “back country.” The numerous lakes and mountain streams,
the glaciers, the vast forest cover, and the abundance of fish and game
are attractions that draw large numbers of people who wish to see
wilderness areas unspoiled by the hand of man.
[Illustration: F-385837
_Mixed virgin stand of Engelmann spruce and Douglas fir._]
Wilderness Areas.—Two wilderness areas—the North Absaroka, containing
about 380,000 acres, and the South Absaroka, containing about 600,000
acres—have been set aside to insure the perpetuation of the delightful
natural and virgin conditions characteristic of the back country in the
Shoshone. Entirely undeveloped, except for horse trails and occasional
sanitation facilities at camp sites, primeval conditions are comparable
to those encountered when John Colter traveled through this country in
the early years of the nineteenth century. No roads will be permitted
nor will there be any hotels, resorts, or summer homes. Sales of timber
will not be made, but the grazing of domestic stock—cattle, horses, and
sheep—will be allowed under well-regulated conditions, insuring ample
range for big game animals and the protection of the basic soil and
water resources.
These wilderness areas and the wildlife and fishing resources of the
forest are the basis for one of northwestern Wyoming’s principal
industries—dude ranching. Within and adjacent to the Shoshone are more
than 30 such ranches and similar resorts. Guests enjoy all of the sports
common in the mountains—fishing, hunting, hiking, or riding delightful
trails. As the cool of the evening descends, they enjoy sitting before a
glowing campfire to hear yarns of the West. These ranches and resorts
have various types of accommodations for overnight or weekend guests,
camping parties, pack trips, or family groups. Hundreds of guests visit
them annually, and go home with tanned faces and a spring in their step.
Within the forest are two main highways which offer splendid scenery to
those who do not have the time or inclination to get into the back
country with horses and pack outfits.
_Along the North Fork._—The Cody Road to the Yellowstone National Park,
U. S. 20, winds its way along the banks of the North Fork of the
Shoshone River. The forest boundary is 25 miles west of Cody, and on the
way, such interesting features as DeMaris Hot Springs, extinct geyser
cones and craters, the Shoshone Dam, the tunnels, the Shoshone Cavern
National Monument, and typical western stock and dude ranches and
resorts can be visited. At the boundary the character of the country
changes. The canyon becomes narrower, and here on either side, Signal
Peak and Flag Peak, like the Pillars of Hercules, guard the entrance.
From this point to the east entrance of Yellowstone Park, the distance
is 27 miles.
Within the forest, the road passes through livestock and game ranges,
heavily timbered watersheds, with active timber sales in progress, and
extensively used recreation areas. Thus the tourist is given an
opportunity to actually see the coordinated activities of a national
forest. Watch for the Laughing Pig, the Camel, the Holy City, the Goose,
the Anvil, Henry Ford, Chimney Rock, the Elephant Head, and other
figures carved from rock by the hand of nature.
Along the way there are a number of dude ranches and resorts where
accommodations may be had, also gasoline stations and stores. At
frequent intervals there are picnic and campgrounds for the use of
tourists. These are:
_Name_ _Miles from _Miles from
Cody_ Yellowstone_
Hanging Rock Campground 26.8 26.2
Horse Creek 28.1 24.9
Campground—Trailers
Big Game Campground 29.1 23.9
Wapiti Camp and Picnic Ground 30.1 22.9
Elk Fork Campground 30.1 22.9
Rex Hale Campground 36.7 16.0
Newton Creek 37.5 15.5
Campground—Trailers
Eagle Creek Campground 45.5 7.5
Sleeping Giant Campground 48.9 4.1
Three Mile Campground 49.7 3.3
Pahaska Campground—Trailers 51.0 2.0
Individual camping stalls, tables, water, and campfire grates are
available at all campgrounds.
_Beartooth Plateau—Clarks Fork Country._—The Red Lodge-Cooke City
Highway, a hard-surfaced road, passes through the most spectacular area
in the forest. Leaving Red Lodge, Mont., it follows a southwesterly
course along Rock Creek into the Custer National Forest.
Abruptly the highway leaves the creek and turns up the north slope of
Beartooth Plateau, and over easy grades zigzags its sinuous way into
Wyoming and the Shoshone National Forest and to the very “top of the
world.” Once on top a breath-taking panorama unexpectedly unfolds before
the astonished traveler. Vision is practically unrestricted in any
direction because the road is well above timberline. To the east lies
the Big Horn Basin, with the Big Horn Mountains in the background; to
the south is the Clarks Fork Valley, Sunlight Basin, and still further
south the North Fork and South Fork valleys of the Shoshone. As far as
one can see, rugged snowcapped mountains pierce the sky. In the west,
Pilot Peak and its Siamese twin, Index Peak, point the way into the
heavens. To the north is a continuation of Beartooth Plateau into the
Custer Forest which contains grasshopper glaciers and the “land of the
red snows.” Everywhere evidences of glaciation and tremendous expanses
of barren rock are to be seen. Snowbanks are common. Numerous lakes of
various sizes nestle in the pockets of the land. Gradually, as the
traveler goes westward, he descends to timberline, where gnarled,
stunted trees carry on an age-old struggle for existence against the
fierce elements of cold driving snows and terrific winds. Further
westward as altitude is lost the timber becomes taller, until as one
nears the Clarks Fork River dense, thrifty stands are the rule.
[Illustration: F-385960
_A pack string on the South Fork Trail._]
Aside from two dude ranches along the road, the only other
accommodations within the forest are at Beartooth Lake. Here also are a
store, filling station, and picture studio.
The Shoshone National Forest campgrounds along this road are:
_Name_ _Miles from _Miles from
Cooke City_ Red Lodge_
Crazy Creek Campground 10.8 54
Beartooth Lake Campground 22.9 41.9
Island Lake Campground 26.0 38.8
_Sunlight Basin._—There is also a third road, unimproved, which in good
weather affords a real treat to the auto tourist. It leads from Cody
over Dead Indian Hill into Sunlight Basin and the upper Clarks Fork
Valley. This road is delightfully scenic and connects with the Red
Lodge-Cooke City Highway just below the Nordquist ranch. There are two
campgrounds along this route, one where the road crosses Dead Indian
Creek and the other at the Sunlight Creek crossing. The road leads to
excellent fishing in Dead Indian Creek, Sunlight Creek, the Clarks Fork
River, and the waters on Beartooth Plateau. It is the shortest route to
Beartooth Plateau from Cody.