CHAPTER XXXVI.

THE COMPANIONS AND FOLLOWERS OF COLUMBUS (_concluded_).

Nicuesa and the Duns of San Domingo—Indian Contempt for a Royal

Manifesto—La Cosa’s Advice Disregarded—Ojeda’s Impetuosity—A

Desperate Fight—Seventy Spaniards Killed—La Cosa’s Untimely

End—Ojeda found Exhausted in the Woods—A Rival’s Noble

Conduct—Avenged on the Indians—A New Settlement—Ojeda’s Charm

fails—A Desperate Remedy—In Search of Provisions—Wrecked on Cuba—A

Toilsome March—Kindly Natives—Ojeda’s Vow Redeemed—Dies in Abject

Poverty—The Bachelor Enciso and Balboa—Smuggled on Board in a

Tub—Leon and his Search for the Fountain of Youth—Discovery of

Florida—Magellan—Snubbed at Home—Warmly seconded by the Spanish

Emperor—His resolute Character—Discovery of the Straits—His

Death—The First Voyage round the World—Captain Cook’s

Discoveries—His Tragical Death—Vancouver’s Island.

Nicuesa remained some time in San Domingo after the sailing of his rival’s

fleet, obtaining so many volunteers that he had to purchase another ship

to convey them. That commander was much more the courtier than the man of

business, and expended his money so freely that in the end he found

himself seriously involved. Some of his creditors, knowing that his

expedition was not favourably regarded by the governor, Admiral Don Diego

Columbus, threw every obstacle in the way of his departure, and never was

an unfortunate debtor more harassed by duns, most of whom he managed,

however, to satisfy or mollify. His forces, which now numbered seven

hundred men, were safely embarked, but just as he was stepping into his

boat he was arrested for a debt of five hundred ducats, and carried before

the Alcalde Mayor. “This was a thunderstroke to the unfortunate cavalier.

In vain he represented his utter incapacity to furnish such a sum at the

moment; in vain he represented the ruin that would accrue to himself, and

the vast injury to the public service, should he be prevented from joining

his expedition. The Alcalde Mayor was inflexible, and Nicuesa was reduced

to despair. At this critical moment relief came from a most unexpected

quarter. The heart of a public notary was melted by his distress! He

stepped forward in court, and declared that rather than see so gallant a

gentleman reduced to extremity, he himself would pay down the money.

Nicuesa gazed at him with astonishment, and could scarce believe his

senses; but when he saw him actually pay off the debt, and found himself

suddenly released from this dreadful embarrassment, he embraced his

deliverer with tears of gratitude, and hastened with all speed to embark,

lest some other legal spell should be laid upon his person.”

Ojeda set sail from San Domingo on the 10th of November, 1509, with three

hundred men, among the adventurers being Francisco Pizarro, afterwards the

renowned conqueror of Peru. They arrived speedily at Carthagena, which

harbour Cosa advised Ojeda to abandon, and commence a settlement in the

Gulf of Uraba, where the natives were much less ferocious, and did not use

poisoned weapons, as did those of the former place. Ojeda, however, was

too high-spirited to alter his plans on account of any number of naked

savages, and he landed with a considerable force, and several friars, who

had been sent out to convert the natives, were ordered to read aloud a

manifesto, which had been specially written by eminent divines and jurists

in Spain. It was utterly thrown away on the savages, who immediately made

demonstrations of the most warlike kind.

Cosa once more begged Ojeda to leave these unfriendly shores, but in vain,

and the latter, offering up a short prayer to the Virgin, led on a furious

charge. Juan de Cosa followed in the bravest manner, although the assault

was contrary to his advice. The Indians were soon driven off, and a number

killed or taken prisoners, on whose persons plates of gold were found.

Flushed by this easy victory, he pursued them into the interior, followed

as usual by his faithful, though unwilling lieutenant. Having penetrated

deep into the forest, they came to a stronghold of the enemy, where they

were warmly received. Ojeda led his men on with the old Castilian war-cry,

“Santiago!” and in a few minutes the Indians took to flight. “Eight of

their bravest warriors threw themselves into a cabin, and plied their bows

and arrows so vigorously that the Spaniards were kept at bay. Ojeda cried

shame upon his followers to be daunted by eight naked men. Stung by this

reproach, an old Castilian soldier rushed through a shower of arrows and

forced the door of the cabin, but received a shaft through the heart and

fell dead on the threshold. Ojeda, furious at the sight, ordered fire to

be set to the combustible edifice; in a moment it was in a blaze, and the

eight warriors perished in the flames.” Seventy prisoners were sent on

board the ships. Ojeda, still against the strongly-expressed advice of

Cosa, continued his pursuit, and he and his followers arrived at what

appeared to be a deserted village. They had scattered in search of booty,

when troops of savages, who had been concealed in the forest, surrounded

them. The desperate valour and iron armour of the Spaniards availed

little, for they were overwhelmed by numbers, and scattered into detached

parties. Ojeda collected a few of his followers, and made a desperate

resistance from the interior of a palisaded enclosure. “Here he was

closely besieged and galled by flights of arrows. He threw himself on his

knees, covered himself with his buckler, and being small and active,

managed to protect himself from the deadly shower, but all his companions

were slain by his side, some of them perishing in frightful agonies. At

this fearful moment the veteran La Cosa, having heard of the peril of his

commander, arrived with a few followers to his assistance. Stationing

himself at the gate of the palisades, the brave Biscayan kept the savages

at bay until most of his men were slain, and he himself was severely

wounded. Just then Ojeda sprang forth like a tiger into the midst of the

enemy, dealing his blows on every side. La Cosa would have seconded him,

but was crippled by his wounds. He took refuge with the remnant of his men

in an Indian cabin, the straw roof of which he aided them to throw off,

lest the enemy should set it on fire. Here he defended himself until all

his comrades but one were destroyed. The subtle poison of his wounds at

length overpowered him, and he sank to the ground. Feeling death at hand,

he called to his only surviving companion. ‘Brother,’ said he, ‘since God

hath protected thee from harm, sally forth and fly, and if thou shouldst

see Alonzo de Ojeda, tell him of my fate!’” Thus perished one of the

ablest of the Spanish explorers, and one of the most loyal of friends, a

true counsellor, and a warm-hearted partisan.

[Illustration: THE DEATH OF LA COSA.]

Meanwhile there was great alarm on the ships at the non-arrival of the

seventy men who had adventured into the forests on this mad expedition.

Parties were sent ashore and round the coasts, where they fired signal

guns and sounded trumpets, but in vain. At length some of them arrived at

a great thicket of mangrove trees, amid the entanglements of which they

caught a glimpse of a man in Spanish attire. Approaching, they found that

it was their commander, buckler on shoulder and sword in hand, but so weak

with hunger and fatigue that he could not utter a word. When he was a

little revived by the fire they made on the shore, and the food and wine

they gave him, he told the story of how he had escaped from the savage

bands, how he had hidden every day, and struggled forward at night among

rocks and thickets and matted forests till he reached the coast. As

another proof of the special protection of the Virgin he showed them his

buckler bearing the marks of 300 arrows, while he had received no wound

whatever.

Just as this transpired, the fleet of Nicuesa arrived, and Ojeda was much

troubled in mind, remembering his late rash challenge. He ordered his men

to return to the ships, and leave him on the shore till his rival should

depart. Some of the men went to Nicuesa and intreated him not to take

advantage of Ojeda’s misfortunes. But there was no need for this, and

Nicuesa blushed with indignation that they should think him a gentleman so

unworthy the name. He told them to bring their commander to him, and when

they met he received his late foe with every show of friendship. “It is

not,” said he, “for hidalgoes, like men of vulgar souls, to remember past

differences when they behold one another in distress. Henceforth, let all

that has occurred between us be forgotten. Command me as a brother. Myself

and my men are at your orders, to follow you wherever you please, until

the deaths of Juan de la Cosa and his comrades are revenged.” This noble

offer was not one of words only, and the two commanders became fast

friends. Four hundred men, with several horses, were landed, and they

approached the village, which had cost them seventy lives, in the dead of

the night, their near approach being heralded by the numerous parrots in

the woods, which made a great outcry. The Indians paid no attention,

however, believing that the Spaniards had been exterminated, and they

found their village in flames before they took the alarm. The Spaniards

either killed them at their doors or drove them back into the flames. The

horses, which they supposed to be savage monsters, caused great alarm. The

carnage was something fearful, for no quarter was given. While ranging

about in search of booty they found the body of La Cosa tied to a tree,

swollen and discoloured in a hideous manner by the poison of the Indian

arrows. “This dismal spectacle had such an effect upon the common men that

not one would remain in that place during the night.” The spoil in gold

and other valuables was so great that the share of Nicuesa and his men

amounted to 37,281 dollars.

[Illustration: ARRIVAL OF OJEDA AND HIS FOLLOWERS AT THE INDIAN VILLAGE.]

Ojeda now, somewhat late in the day, took the advice of his late faithful

lieutenant, and steered for the Gulf of Uraba, where he formed a

settlement which he named St. Sebastian. The Indians of the surrounding

country proved unfriendly and hostile, and at length their provisions

began to fail. “In one of their expeditions they were surprised by an

ambuscade of savages in a gorge of the mountains, and attacked with such

fury and effect that they were completely routed, and pursued with yells

and howlings to the very gates of St. Sebastian. Many died in excruciating

agony of their wounds, and others recovered with extreme difficulty. Those

who were well no longer dared to venture forth in search of food, for the

whole forest teemed with lurking foes. They devoured such herbs and roots

as they could find without regard to their quality. Their bodies became

corrupted, and various diseases, combined with the ravages of famine,

daily thinned their numbers. The sentinel who feebly mounted guard at

night was often found dead at his post in the morning. Some stretched

themselves on the ground, and expired of mere famine and debility; nor was

death any longer regarded as an evil, but rather as a welcome relief from

a life of horror and despair.” Such is the chronicler’s mournful account.

We have seen that Ojeda felt unbounded confidence in his charm—the picture

of the Holy Virgin—and he had so long escaped unscathed that the Indians

also believed him to bear a charmed life. They determined one day to test

the question, and placed four of their most expert archers in ambush, with

directions to single him out, while a number more advanced to the fort

sounding their conches and drums, and yelling with hideous noises. Ojeda

sallied forth to meet them, and the Indians fled to the ambuscade. The

archers waited till he was full in front, and then discharged their

poisoned arrows. Three he warded off by his buckler, but the fourth

pierced his thigh. Ojeda was carried back to the fort, more despondent

than he had ever yet been, for his talisman seemed to have failed him, and

thrilling pains shot through his body. But he was not to be thus defeated.

He caused two plates of iron to be made red hot, and ordered a surgeon to

apply them to each orifice of his wound. The surgeon, fearful that should

he die the death would be laid to his door, shudderingly refused,

whereupon Ojeda threatened to hang him if he did not obey, and he was

obliged to comply. Ojeda refused to be held or tied down, and endured the

agony without moving a muscle. This violent remedy so inflamed his system

that he had to be wrapped in sheets steeped in vinegar to allay the fever,

and it is said that a barrel of vinegar was consumed in this way. But he

lived, and his wounds healed; “the cold poison,” says Las Casas, “was

consumed by the vivid fire.”

At this time their provisions were again becoming scarce, and the arrival

of a strange ship, commanded by one Bernardino de Talavera, a desperate

pirate, was welcomed, as it brought some relief, although supplies were

only furnished for large prices in gold. Some dissatisfaction was

expressed at the division of the food, and shortly afterwards serious

factions arose. At last Ojeda volunteered to go himself to San Domingo in

quest of necessary supplies, to which his followers agreed, and he

embarked on board Talavera’s ship. They had scarcely put to sea when a

serious quarrel arose between the freebooter and Ojeda; the latter,

apparently, having acted on board as though he were commander instead of

passenger. He was actually put in irons, where “he reviled Talavera and

his gang as recreants, traitors, pirates, and offered to fight the whole

of them successively, provided they would give him a clear deck and come

on two at a time.” They left him fuming and raging in his chains until a

violent gale arose, and they bethought themselves that Ojeda was a skilful

navigator. They then parleyed, offering him his liberty if he would pilot

the ship, and he consented, but all his skill was unavailing, and he was

obliged to run her on the southern coast of Cuba—then as yet uncolonised,

except by runaway slaves from Hayti. Here they made a toilsome march

through forests and morasses, crossing mountains and rivers, in a nearly

starved condition. One morass, entangled by roots and creeping vines, and

cut up by sloughs and creeks, occupied them thirty days to cross, at the

end of which time only thirty-five men survived out of seventy that had

left the ship. At last they reached an Indian village. “The Indians

gathered round and gazed at them with wonder, but when they learnt their

story, they exhibited a humanity that would have done honour to the most

professing Christians. They bore them to their dwellings, set meat and

drink before them, and vied with each other in discharging the offices of

the kindest humanity. Finding that a number of their companions were still

in the morass, the cacique sent a large party of Indians with provisions

for their relief, with orders to bring on their shoulders such as were too

feeble to walk.... The Spaniards were brought to the village, succoured,

cherished, consoled, and almost worshipped as if they had been angels.”

And now Ojeda prepared to carry out a vow he had made on his journey, that

if saved, he would erect a little hermitage or oratory, with an altar,

above which he would place the picture to which he attributed his

wonderful escape. The cacique listened with attention to his explanations

regarding the beneficence of the Virgin, whom he represented as the mother

of the Deity who reigned above, and acquired a profound veneration for the

picture. Long after, when the Bishop Las Casas, who has recorded these

facts, arrived at the same village, he found the chapel preserved with

religious care. But when he offered—wishing to obtain possession of the

relic—to exchange it for an image of the Virgin, the chief made an evasive

reply, and next morning was missing, having fled with the picture in his

possession. It was all in vain that Las Casas sent messages after him,

“assuring him that he should not be deprived of the relic, but, on the

contrary, that the image should likewise be presented to him.” The cacique

would not return to the village till he knew that the Spaniards had

departed.

We find Ojeda next in Jamaica, and afterwards in San Domingo, where he

inquired earnestly after the Bachelor Enciso, who had, it will be

remembered, promised to aid him with reinforcements and supplies. He was

assured that that ambitious lawyer had sailed for the settlement, which

was a fact. Next we find the sanguine Ojeda endeavouring to set on foot

another armament, but the failure of his colony was too well understood,

and there were no more volunteers, either as regards personal service or

pecuniary aid. The poor adventurer was destined never again to see his

settlement, the subsequent history of which is a series of intrigues and

disasters. He died in abject poverty in San Domingo, and “so broken in

spirit that, with his last breath, he intreated his body might be buried

in the monastery of St. Francisco, just at the portal, in humble expiation

of his past pride, _that every one who entered might tread upon his

grave_.” Nicuesa, after many vicissitudes, was lost at sea. The Bachelor

Enciso was rather snubbed when he arrived at Ojeda’s colony, but made some

fortunate ventures, and plundered a village on the banks of a river named

Darien, collecting great quantities of gold ornaments, bracelets, anklets,

plates, and what not, with food and cotton to the value of ten thousand

castillanos, or about ten thousand seven hundred pounds sterling. Among

the men who for a time served with Enciso was Vasco Nuñez de Balbao,

afterwards the discoverer of the Pacific from the Isthmus of Darien, of

whom these pages have already furnished some account. He joined the

expedition of Enciso in a very curious manner. He had been a man of very

loose and prodigal habits, but had settled down on a farm in Hispaniola,

where he soon became hopelessly involved in debt. The proposed armament

gave him the opportunity he sought of running away from his creditors. He

concealed himself in a cask, which was taken on board the vessel as though

containing provisions. When the vessel was fairly out at sea “Nuñez

emerged like an apparition from his cask, to the great surprise of Enciso,

who had been totally ignorant of the stratagem. The Bachelor was indignant

at being thus outwitted, even though he gained a recruit by the deception,

and, in the first ebullition of his wrath, gave the fugitive debtor a very

rough reception, threatening to put him on shore on the first uninhabited

island they should encounter. Vasco Nuñez, however, succeeded in pacifying

him, ‘for God,’ says the venerable Las Casas, ‘reserved him for greater

things.’” It was Nuñez who afterwards directed Enciso to the village where

he obtained so much plunder.

Another remarkable man of that age was Juan Ponce de Leon, the conqueror

of Porto Rico, and the discoverer of Florida. He had amassed a

considerable amount of wealth in the former place, and, like many of the

active discoverers of that energetic age, was ambitious for new triumphs.

By accident he met with some Indians who assured him “that far to the

north, there existed a land abounding in gold and in all manner of

delights; but, above all, possessing a river of such wonderful virtue,

that whoever bathed in it would be restored to youth! They added that in

times past, before the arrival of the Spaniards, a large party of the

natives of Cuba had departed northward in search of this happy land and

this river of life, and, having never returned, it was concluded that they

were flourishing in renewed youth, detained by the pleasures of that

enchanting country.” Others told him that in a certain island of the

Bahamas, called Bimini, there was a fountain possessing the same

marvellous and inestimable qualities, and that whoever drank from it would

secure perennial youth. Juan Ponce listened to these fables with

credulity, and actually fitted out three vessels at his own expense to

prosecute the discovery, and obtained numerous volunteers to assist him.

“It may seem incredible,” says Irving, “at the present day, that a man of

years and experience could yield any faith to a story which resembles the

wild fiction of an Arabian tale; but the wonders and novelties breaking

upon the world in that age of discovery almost realised the illusions of

fable, and the imaginations of the Spanish voyagers had become so heated

that they were capable of any stretch of credulity.” A similar statement

was made by an eminent man of learning, Peter Martyr, to Leo X., then

Bishop of Rome. Juan Ponce left Porto Rico on the 3rd March, 1512, for the

Bahama Islands, on his search for the Fountain of Youth, but all his

inquiries and explorations failed in its discovery. Still he persevered,

and was rewarded in discovering on the mainland a country in the fresh

bloom of spring, the trees gay with blossoms and abounding with flowers.

He took possession of it in the name of the Castilian sovereigns, and gave

it the name of Florida, which it still retains. He subsequently discovered

a group of islands, where his sailors, in the course of one night, caught

one hundred and seventy turtles. He appropriately named them the Tortugas,

or Turtles, the title they also still bear. Disheartened by the failure of

his special mission, he gave up the command to a trusty captain, and

returned to Porto Rico, “where he arrived infinitely poorer in purse and

wrinkled in brow, by this cruise after inexhaustible riches and perpetual

youth.” His captain arrived soon after with the news that he had

discovered the island of Bimini, and that it abounded in crystal springs

and limpid streams, which kept the island ever fresh and verdant; “but

none that could restore to an old man the vernal greenness of his youth.”

As late as 1521 we find old Juan Ponce engaged in a new expedition to

Florida, where, in an encounter with the Indians, he was fatally wounded

by an arrow. He retired to Cuba, where he died shortly afterwards. The

Spaniards said of him that he was a lion by name, and still more by

nature.

The name of Magellan, or Magalhaens, is more familiar to the general

reader than some of those which have preceded it in this chapter. He was a

Portuguese of noble birth, and had served honourably in India. When he

made the offer of his services to his own sovereign, there is no doubt

that the undertaking he proposed—viz., to determine the question whether

the shores of South America were washed by an open sea—had been mooted

before. To him however, belongs the credit of having brought that question

to an issue. His own king would have nought to do with his project, and

dismissed him with a frown. Magellan, accompanied by Ruy Falero, an

astrologer (the astrologers were in part the astronomers of those days),

who was associated with him in the enterprise, next made his proposals to

the Spanish Emperor, Charles V., by whom he was received with attention

and respect. Articles of agreement were drawn up, to this effect: the

navigator agreed to reach the Moluccas _by sailing to the west_; they were

to enjoy for ten years the exclusive right to the track (!), and to

receive the twentieth part of all profits accruing from their discoveries,

with some special privileges in regard to the merchandise of the first

voyage. Moreover, the Emperor agreed to furnish five vessels, and victual

them for two years—an unusual act of liberality in those days, when the

monarchs usually contented themselves with conferring patents, privileges,

and titles merely, which cost them nothing, and yet were often the means

of subsequently enriching them. The sailing of the expedition was retarded

by the machinations of the Portuguese king, who now professed a

willingness to employ Magellan, and, failing in this, is said to have

spread reports that “the King of Spain would lose his expenses, for

Fernando Magellan was a chattering fellow, and little reliance could be

placed in him, and that he would never execute that which he promised.”

But at last, on the 20th September, 1519, the squadron got under weigh.

In the month of December following Magellan anchored in a port on the

coast of Brazil, which he named Santa Lucia. The natives appeared a

confiding and credulous race, and readily bartered provisions for the

merest trifles; “half a dozen fowls were exchanged for a king of spades”

(card). Putting again to sea, Magellan sailed southward, touching at

various points till he came to anchor in a harbour which he named San

Julian, and where he made a stay of five months. Here discontent, and at

length open mutiny, broke out, the ringleaders being certain Spanish

officers who felt mortified at serving under a Portuguese commander.

Magellan was not a man to stand any nonsense, and was utterly

unscrupulous. He despatched a person with a letter to one of the captains,

with orders to stab him whilst he was engaged in reading it. This

commission being rigorously executed, and followed up by other stringent

measures, his authority was re-established through the mutineers’

knowledge and fear of his determined character.

In October of the next year, after various minor discoveries, he arrived

at the entrance of the great strait which now bears his name. After

careful examination of the opening, a council was held, at which the

pilot, Estevan Gomez, voted for returning to refit, while the more

enterprising wished to complete their discovery. Magellan listened

patiently and silently, and then firmly declared that were he reduced to

eat the hides on the yards—which were, in fact, the sails—he would keep

his faith with the Emperor. It was forbidden to speak of home or scarcity

of provisions on pain of death!

Two vessels were sent to reconnoitre in advance, and these were driven

violently by a gale into the straits, where the two coasts more than once

seemed to join, and the mariners thought all was lost, when a narrow

channel would disclose itself, into which they would gladly enter. They

returned, and made their report to Magellan, who ordered the whole

squadron to advance. On reaching the open expanse of water into which the

second gut opens, an inlet to the south-east was observed, and Estevan

Gomez was sent in charge of one of two vessels to explore it. He took the

opportunity to incite a mutiny, threw the captain into chains, and steered

back for Spain. When the western or Pacific end of the straits was

reached,(53) and they saw a grand open ocean beyond, they named the

headland at the entrance, Il Capo Descado—the “Longed-for Cape”—and spent

some days in erecting standards in conspicuous places, and in rejoicing

over their discovery. On the 28th November, 1520, the small squadron

reached the open sea, and took a northerly course towards the equator, in

order to reach a milder climate, the sailors having suffered much in and

about the straits.

[Illustration: FERDINAND DE MAGELLAN.]

Magellan, besides minor discoveries, is fairly credited with that of the

Philippine Islands, where he was treated in a most friendly manner. At

Zebu he acted after the manner of his time; for, finding the people

submissive and respectful, he exacted a tribute, which seems to have been

willingly paid. One king, or chief, alone refused, which so incensed

Magellan that he resolved to punish him. He accordingly landed with

forty-nine of his followers, clothed in mail, and began an attack on 1,500

Indians. The battle raged some hours, but at last numbers prevailed, and

only some seven or eight Spaniards remained with Magellan, the rest being

either already killed or utterly routed. He himself was wounded in the

limbs by a poisoned arrow, and his sword-arm being disabled he could no

longer defend himself, and so fell a martyr to overweening ambition and

greed. The voyage home was completed, and those of his men who remained

had achieved the proud distinction of having been the first

circumnavigators of the globe.

Before leaving the subject of remarkable voyages, a few supplementary

remarks are necessary. The great epoch just mentioned was followed by

great commercial activity, owing to the important discoveries of new lands

made, and, of course, the map of the world was by degrees filled in with

details which earlier explorers had overlooked. In some previous chapters,

notably those referring to the history of shipping and shipping interests,

many of the more important voyages following those just described have

been sufficiently noticed. In effect, the many subjects treated in

connection with THE SEA naturally intertwine, and the same voyages are in

the course of this work occasionally mentioned more than once, though in

different ways, and for different reasons.

No explorer’s name, after those recently considered, shines with more

effulgency than that of the celebrated Captain Cook, already mentioned in

two separate connections. Born in 1728, the son of an agricultural

labourer and farm bailiff, he early showed an irresistible inclination for

the sea, and could not be chained down to the haberdasher’s counter, for

which his father had destined him. He commenced his seafaring life as an

apprentice on a collier, but soon rose to be mate. He next entered the

royal navy, where, from able seaman, his promotion was rapid. Some charts

and observations drawn up by him while marine surveyor of the coasts of

Newfoundland and Labrador brought him much notice from scientific

quarters, and the Royal Society offered him the command of an expedition

to the Pacific, to make an observation of the transit of Venus. This was

the first of his three great voyages, during which he re-discovered New

Zealand,(54) practically took possession of Australia, proved that New

Guinea was a separate island, made discoveries in the Antarctic,

discovered the Sandwich Islands, and made the northern explorations also

mentioned previously. He met his death on the island of Hawaii (Sandwich

Islands), in the tragical manner known almost to every schoolboy.

It would appear that, previous to the fatal day, there had been some

little trouble with the natives. One day, the officer who had commanded a

watering-party returned to the ship, stating that some chief had driven

away the natives employed in rolling the casks to the beach, work which

had been gladly performed before for trifling payments. A marine, with

side-arms only, was sent back with him, when it was noticed that the

islanders were arming with stones, and two others with loaded muskets were

sent off to the watering party’s assistance, which for the moment quieted

the matter. Captain Cook gave orders that, if the natives should venture

to attack his men, they should in the future fire on them with balls,

instead of small shot, as hitherto. And not long after a volley proceeding

from the _Discovery_, fired after a retreating canoe, announced that his

orders were being carried into execution. Ignorant that some stolen goods

were thereupon returned, Cook himself, with an officer and a marine,

chased these natives on shore, but fruitlessly. Meantime, the officer who

had recovered the stolen goods, thinking that he might retaliate, took

possession of a canoe on the beach, which act the owner naturally

resented, and a scuffle ensued, during which he was knocked down by a blow

from an oar. The natives returned the attack with a shower of stones, and

would have destroyed the pinnace but for the interference of the very man

who had just been knocked on the head, who was, however, still friendly

inclined towards the English.

Captain Cook was naturally annoyed at and perplexed by these occurrences.

In the course of the next night a boat was stolen from the _Discovery_,

and Cook at once ordered a body of marines ashore, going with them

himself, and taking a double-barrelled gun, one barrel loaded with small

shot, and the other with a bullet. The other boats were ordered out to

prevent any canoe from leaving the bay until the matter was settled.

Arrived ashore, he marched up to the old king, who to every appearance had

had no hand in the theft, nor had connived at it, for he promised to go on

board with the captain, the latter intending to keep him as a hostage. The

chief’s two sons were already in the pinnace, when his wife entreated him

with tears not to go off to the ship. Two chiefs also, at this juncture,

forcibly laid hold of the old man, and made him sit down on the beach.

Cook saw from the general aspect of affairs, and the gathering thousands

on the beach, that he must give up his idea, and proceeded slowly to the

place of embarkation.

It appears that, while this was going on, some of the men on the boats

stationed around the bay had fired on some escaping canoes, and worse, had

killed a chief. The news arrived ashore just as Cook was leaving, and the

natives immediately began to put on their war-mats, and arm themselves.

One of them, carrying an iron dagger, which he brandished wildly,

threatened Cook with a large stone, and the captain at last could stand

his insolence no longer, and gave him a volley of small shot. This against

the native’s thick war-mat was about as effective as shooting peas against

a rhinoceros. Next came a volley of stones in return, while an attempt was

made to stab a marine officer, who returned a heavy blow from the butt-end

of his musket. A native crawled behind a canoe, and then aimed a spear at

Cook, who soon gave them the contents of his other barrel, killing one of

the assailants. In quick succession, volleys of stones were answered by a

volley of musketry; four marines fell, and were speedily despatched. Cook

now stood by the water’s edge, signalling the men to stop firing and get

on board; but in the scuffle and confusion his orders were not understood.

A lieutenant commanding one of the boats blundered, or worse, to the

extent of taking his boat further off, so that the picking up of the

wounded marines was thrown entirely on the pinnace, which had been brought

in as near the shore as the master was able to come. Poor Cook was left

alone on a rock, where he was seen trying to shield his head from the

shower of stones with the one hand, while he still grasped his musket in

the other. So soon as his back was turned, the natives attacked him, one

clubbing him down, and another stabbing him in the neck. Again he dropped

in the water knee-deep, looking earnestly out for help from the pinnace,

not more than a few yards off. But the end was near. The savages got him

under in deeper water. In his death-struggle he broke from them, and clung

to the rock. In a second there was another blow, and the end had come. His

body was dragged ashore and mutilated. After the fall of their commander,

the survivors of the men escaped under cover of a fire kept up from the

boats. But for Cook himself, one of the most humane of commanders, nothing

seems to have been attempted in the hurry and excitement of the scuffle.

Cook’s body—or as much as remained of it—was subsequently recovered, and

committed to the deep, the guns booming solemnly over the watery grave of

one of England’s greatest explorers. While the rites were being performed,

absolute unbroken silence was enjoined upon the natives ashore and afloat,

nor was the water disturbed by the dip of a single paddle. Thus perished,

at the early age of fifty-one, in a miserable scuffle with semi-savages,

Captain James Cook, a navigator whose fame was and still remains

world-wide.

Our space will only permit us to refer, briefly, to one other notable

voyage, namely, that of Vancouver, whose first experiences were gained

with Cook. The fame of this explorer rests very much upon his

circumnavigation, towards the end of the eighteenth century, of the island

which now bears his name. The actual discovery of the entrance to the

straits between the island and mainland dates from the time of De Fuca;

while Vancouver himself, in the following passage, admits a prior claim to

its partial investigation. He says—“At four o’clock a sail was discovered

to the westward standing in shore. This was a very great novelty, not

having seen any vessel but our consort during the last eight months. She

soon hoisted American colours, and fired a gun to leeward. At six we spoke

her. She proved to be the ship _Columbia_, commanded by Mr. Robert Gray,

belonging to Boston, from which port she had been absent nineteen months.

Having little doubt of his being the same person who had formerly

commanded the sloop _Washington_, I desired he would bring to, and sent

Mr. Puget and Mr. Menzies on board to acquire such information as might be

serviceable in our future operations.”

On the return of the boat, Vancouver found that his conjectures had not

been ungrounded, and that Mr. Gray was the same gentleman who had

commanded the sloop _Washington_ at the time she had made a voyage behind

the island. It was a little remarkable that on his approach to the

entrance of this inland sea or strait, he should fall in with the

identical person who, it had been stated, had sailed through it. Mr. Gray

assured the officers, however, that he had penetrated only fifty miles

into the straits in question in an ESE. direction; that he found the

passage five leagues wide; and that he understood from the natives that

the opening extended a considerable distance to the northward. He then

returned to the ocean the same way he had entered it. This inlet he

supposed to be the same De Fuca had discovered. The fact, however, remains

that Vancouver most thoroughly explored the coasts of the island, and the

inlets and shores of Puget Sound, Washington Territory, and British

Columbia—countries which are slowly but surely taking their proper place

in the world’s estimation.

END OF VOLUME III.

FOOTNOTES

1 “The History of the Bucaniers of America.” This once celebrated work

contains a number of the most reliable histories of the pirates and

freebooters of the seventeenth century.

2 The “piece of eight” means in value, as nearly as possible, the

American dollar of to-day.

3 This is the chronicler’s statement. He meant the _cacao_-nut.

_ 4 i.e._, “Spiked,” as we say now-a-days.

5 Wherever “religious men and women” are mentioned in these old

records, the meaning is priests or monks, and nuns.

6 The city site was almost immediately afterwards moved to a spot,

four miles off, where the present Panama stands to-day.

7 The account is derived from a French source, and although in all

probability veracious in most points, cannot be implicitly believed.

For this reason the author has not gone further into the most

romantic story of this high-principled pirate. Misson is said to

have later gone down with his vessel, while Caraccioli was killed in

an affray with natives.

8 The best known of which is “The Pilot,” in which he is the prominent

character.

9 Few readers will need reminding that the same Dr. Franklin was the

celebrated philosopher.

10 The narrative is derived from one of two most graphic letters by the

author of “The Military Sketch-book.”

11 “Heroes of the Arctic.” Society for the Promotion of Christian

Knowledge.

12 These papers, with others, were published in a small work bearing

the title, “The Possibility of Approaching the North Pole Asserted,

&c.”

_ 13 De_-lighted—_i.e._, deprived of light.

14 “Under the Northern Lights.” By J. A. MacGahan.

15 The entertainments were, we are informed by Captain Markham, termed

the Thursday “Pops,” and popular they most undoubtedly were.

16 Few readers will need to be reminded that on the Fahrenheit

thermometer commonly used in England zero is expressed by 0, and

that the freezing point of water is plus (+) 32°, or 32° above zero.

The above temperatures are all minus (-), or below zero. Without

remembering these facts, one can hardly appreciate the intense and

almost unparalleled cold experienced by the late expedition.

17 “Journals and Proceedings of the Arctic Expedition, 1875-6,” &c.

(printed as a Parliamentary Blue-book).

18 Mercury frequently froze during the writer’s stay on the Yukon, and

other parts of Northern Alaska, in the winter of 1866-7. On one

occasion the thermometer registered 58° below zero (90° below the

freezing point of water).

19 The recently-reported exploit of Professor Nordenskjold, of which we

have at present the barest outlines, does not properly come under

this category. It was in reality a successful voyage by the

north-west passage, and must eventually find its place in these

pages.

20 Sir John Barrow: “Chronological History of Voyages into the Arctic

Regions.”

21 The full name of this navigator is Willem zoon Barents, or Barentz,

_i.e._, William, the son of Barents. The abbreviated form, however,

has always been adopted of late.

22 Introduction to the Hakluyt Society’s edition of these voyages.

23 A Dutch proverb, used when an undertaking turns out badly. The dog

stole a sausage, and got well whipped for his pains.

24 “Discoveries East of Spitzbergen,” &c. Paper read before the Royal

Geographical Society by C. R. Markham, Esq., C.B., F.R.S., February

10th, 1873.

25 A cubical or rectangular mass of ice will, floating in the sea, have

about six times the depth under water that it has height above. But

it will be evident that this will not apply to irregular-shaped

masses, which may have very solid bases, rising above in lighter

pinnacles or other fantastic forms. The brother of the writer has

seen on the Greenland coast icebergs 90 to 100 feet out of the

water, _grounded_ at 100 fathoms (600 feet).

26 “Journey from Prince of Wales’s Fort in Hudson’s Bay to the Northern

Ocean.”

27 In several of the older Arctic works glaciers and icebergs are

confounded. The fact is that the latter, or at all events the larger

number of the latter, are born of the former. They are masses of ice

which have become detached at the sea end and have floated away.

28 The writer has visited many parts of Russian-America, or, as it is

now called, Alaska, a little south of the above point. The natives

as a rule live _underground_ in winter, but they have for summer use

board and log houses on the surface, and stages above and around

them of all kinds, some for drying fish, others for raising sledges

or canoes above the surface of the ground, &c.

29 There is none growing, but a wreck or piece of drift-wood

occasionally supplies their need. The writer was in Behring Sea in

the autumn of the year 1865, when the famed and dreaded privateer

_Shenandoah_ burned _thirty_ American whale-ships, and the natives

had then a considerable amount of wreckage, including complete

boats, which had come ashore. _Vide_ the author’s work, “Travel and

Adventure in the Territory of Alaska,” &c.

30 In the summer of 1843 Middendorf explored the coasts and

neighbourhood of Cape Taimyr, and looking seawards to the Polar

Ocean, saw open water.

31 The writer has spelt the word phonetically. It is impossible to

render more than the sound of a Russian word in English, and any

attempt to Anglicise the Russian spelling must end in failure, as

there are thirty-six letters in that language. But from intercourse

with educated Russians in Kamchatka during two visits in 1865 and

1866, he knows that his mode more nearly represents the sound than

the versions commonly adopted, one of which may be noted above in

the quotation from Müller, where the English translator has made the

word _Kamtschatka_.

32 We read little of these animals afterwards in Parry’s narrative, and

they were not, and could not be, of service in the perilous and

harassing journey, over broken and detached _sea_ ice, about to be

described.

33 “Phipps’s Voyage towards the North Pole.”

34 Sir John Franklin’s first wife died on the day after the departure

of the expedition from England.

35 It is not desirable here to enter into the detailed consideration of

who first discovered the North-west Passage. When Franklin sailed in

1845 there was but a comparatively small gap between Parry’s

furthest western point (Melville Island) and Back’s Great Fish

River, unexplored, and Franklin did undoubtedly complete this

missing link. M’Clure, as we shall afterwards see, made the passage

successfully and independently, and his discoveries were published

long before the world knew anything of Franklin’s fate or the extent

of his last voyage. The late Sir Roderick Murchison considered

Franklin “the first real discoverer of the North-west Passage,” and

the inscription on his monument bears witness to the same effect.

36 It will have been observed that Captain Collinson, who was to have

accompanied M’Clure, was never able to communicate with him. This

vessel, however, passed some time in the Arctic waters, and some

pieces of wreck purchased by him from the Esquimaux, and _supposed_

to have been parts of Franklin’s vessels, the _Erebus_ and _Terror_,

were the only relics which were ever obtained by any naval commander

acting under Government orders. Captain Parry’s discoveries, however

interesting in regard to the early progress of the expedition, threw

no light on its fate.

37 Although there is some variation in the mode of preparing this

comestible, it is essentially always the same: lean meat, dried and

cut into shreds, which is then pounded up and mixed with melted beef

fat, and pressed into cases. Among the Indians, who have not this

latter resource of civilisation, gut and skins are employed, and

their pemmican is not, therefore, unlike a rather substantial and

solid sausage.

38 Conjecture is perhaps wrong at this point, but the painful thought

has often occurred to the writer that the Esquimaux, not always

quite so innocent as some writers would have us believe, were the

murderers of some at least of the enfeebled party. Broken down by

starvation, and exhausted by painful travel, they would be an easy

prey to the hardy natives, whose cupidity might be excited by the

many useful articles they possessed. We have before seen how

Franklin was nearly involved in a serious _fracas_ with those

people, and in later days it is on record that Dr. Hayes, the

American explorer, discovered a plot for the destruction of his

party.

39 There are slight discrepancies in the above records, which, however,

can be readily understood were made in the hurry and excitement of

the moment.

40 No part of the skull of either skeleton was found, with the

exception only of the lower jaw of each.

41 “Arctic Explorations in the Years 1853, ’54, ’55,” by Elisha Kent

Kane, M.D., U.S.N.

42 “Summer in the Antarctic Regions.”

43 The word _Arctic_ is derived from the Greek, and signifies _of_, or

_belonging to the bear_.

44 Captain Dumont D’Urville commanded an expedition dispatched by

France in 1837 for the express purpose of exploring the Antarctic,

and Lieutenant Wilkes, U.S.N. had a similar commission the same

year. Wilkes and D’Urville sighted each other’s vessels on one

occasion, but through a mistake did not communicate.

45 Don Cristoval Colon. The port now generally termed Aspinwall, on the

Atlantic side of the Isthmus of Panama, was long, and is sometimes

nowadays known as Colon.

46 Translation of the history by Don Ferdinand Columbus in Churchill’s

Collection of Voyages and Travels.

47 They had been seventy days on the passage from Spain.

48 “Land-lubber” about expresses this term.

49 “History of the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella.”

50 It must be remembered that it was the received opinion of the good

Roman Catholics of the period, that heathen nations were outside the

pale of spiritual and civil rights, and that their bodies were the

property of their conquerors. Even Columbus recommended an exchange

of native slaves for the commodities required in the colony;

representing, moreover, that their conversion would be the more

surely effected in slavery! _Vide_ Prescott’s “History of the Reign

of Ferdinand and Isabella.”

51 Calicut, in the district of Malabar, must not be confounded with

Calcutta. Calico derives its name from Calicut, once a famous

manufacturing city.

52 “The Voyages and Discoveries of the Companions of Columbus.”

53 The Straits of Magellan are nearly 300 miles in length, and vary in

breadth from one and a half to thirty-three miles. The rocky cliffs

and mountains which bound it are in some places 3,000 to 4,000 feet

in height. The passage has only been used extensively since the

steamship era. Now it is a common highway for steamships and some

sailing vessels, the latter being often towed through by steam tugs.

54 First discovered by Tasman in 1642.

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up paragraphs

and are near the text they illustrate.

Several illustrations which were missing from the List of Illustrations

have been added to it. They can be identified by the missing page numbers

in the list.

The following changes have been made to the text:

page iv, “Portugese” changed to “Portuguese” (three times)

page 7, “sudddenly” changed to “suddenly”

page 21, comma changed to period after “fleet”

page 27, “armanent” changed to “armament”

page 41, double quote changed to single quote after “them.”

page 60, “were” changed to “where”

page 134, “Vere” changed to “Veer”

page 201, period added after “northward”

page 212, quote mark added after “putrid.”

page 229, prime added after “43”, prime changed to double prime

after “15”

page 246, quote mark added before “It”

page 249, quote mark added after “superb.”

page 251, quote mark added after “land.”

page 271, quote mark added after “ice.”

page 275, comma changed to period after “whales”

page 299, quote mark removed before “On”

page 310, quote mark added after “fate!”

page 319, double “to” removed

Differences between the table of contents and the chapter summaries have

not been corrected. Neither have variations in hyphenation been

normalized.

The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 3 · 第 36 / 36 章