Without it, there would be far less poverty than there is, but poverty
is a good old American institution, too; there would inevitably be
less inequality, but inequality is as dear to the American heart as
liberty itself. In New York the inequality has that effect upon the
architecture which I have tried to give some notion of; but in fact it
deforms life at every turn, and in nothing more than in the dress of
the people, high and low. New York is, on the whole, without doubt,
the best-dressed community in America, or at least there is a certain
number of people here, more expensively and scrupulously attired than
you will find anywhere else in the country. The rich copy the fashions
set for them in Paris or in London, and then the less rich, and the
still less rich, down to the poor, follow them as they can, until you
arrive at the very poorest, who wear the cast-off and tattered fashions
of former years, and masquerade in a burlesque of the fortunate that
never fails to shock and grieve me. They must all somehow be clothed;
the climate and the custom require it; but sometimes I think their
nakedness would be less offensive; and when I meet a wretched man, with
his coat out at the elbows, or split up the back, in broken shoes,
battered hat, and frayed trousers, or some old woman or young girl in
a worn-out, second-hand gown and bonnet, tattered and threadbare and
foul, I think that if I were a believer in it, I would uncover my head
to them, and ask their forgiveness for the system that condemns some
one always to such humiliation as theirs.
We say such people are not humiliated, that they do not mind it, that
they are used to it; but if we ever look these people in the eye, and
see the shrinking, averted glance of their shame and tortured pride, we
must know that what we say is a cruel lie. At any rate, the presence
of these outcasts must spoil the beauty of any dress near them, and
there is always so much more penury than affluence that the sight of
the crowd in the New York streets must give more pain than pleasure.
The other day on Fifth Avenue it did not console me to meet a young and
lovely girl, exquisitely dressed in the last effect of Paris, after I
had just parted from a young fellow who had begged me to give him a
little money to get something to eat, for he had been looking for work
a week and had got nothing. I suppose I ought to have doubted his word,
he was so decently clad, but I had a present vision of him in rags, and
I gave to the frowzy tramp he must soon become.
Of course, this social contrast was extreme, like some of those
architectural contrasts I have been noting, but it was by no means
exceptional, as those were not. In fact, I do not know but I may say
that it was characteristic of the place, though you might say that the
prevalent American slovenliness was also characteristic of the New
York street crowds; I mean the slovenliness of the men--the women, of
whatever order they are, are always as much dandies as they can be.
But most American men are too busy to look much after their dress,
and when they are very well to do they care very little for it. You
see few men dressed in New York with, the distinction of the better
class of Londoners, and when you do meet them, they have the air of
playing a part, as in fact they are: they are playing the part of men
of leisure in a nation of men whose reality is constant work, whether
they work for bread or whether they work for money, and who, when they
are at work, outdo the world, but sink, when they are at leisure, into
something third rate and fourth rate. The commonness of effect in the
street crowds is not absent from Fifth Avenue or from Madison Avenue
any more than it is from First Avenue or Tenth Avenue; and the tide
of wealth and fashion, that rolls up and down the better avenues in
the splendid carriages, makes the shabbiness of the foot-passenger,
when he is shabby, as he often is, the more apparent. On the far east
side, and on the far west side, the horse-cars, which form the only
means of transit, have got the dirt and grime of the streets and the
dwellings on them and in them, and there is one tone of foulness in the
passengers and the vehicles. I do not wish to speak other than tenderly
of the poor, but it is useless to pretend that they are other than
offensive in aspect, and I have to take my sympathy in both hands when
I try to bestow it upon them. Neither they nor the quarter they live in
has any palliating quaintness; and the soul, starved of beauty, will
seek in vain to feed itself with the husks of picturesqueness in their
aspect.