CHAPTER XXVII

_CHOPSTICKS_

Although our chopsticks may have some resemblance to magic wands, the

purpose they fulfil is a much more prosaic one, and, at the same time, a

much more useful one. They are the auxiliaries which help us to convey

to our mouths the food which we need for our bodies, the coal required

by the human machine. It is generally thought in Europe that we use two

chopsticks—one in each hand—for taking up the morsels of food, and for

conveying these to our mouths. That is a mistake: our knife and fork

exercise is much less complicated. The chopsticks are held in the right

hand. Maintained by the thumb and the ring-finger, they are worked

by the index and the middle finger. One remains motionless, the other

manœuvres and catches up the fragments of meat, and even the smallest

particles of rice. When rice is eaten, the bowl containing it is brought

very close to the mouth. The chopsticks work with feverish activity, for

rice is our daily bread, and we can admit of no slip between the cup

that contains it and our lips. It may be thought that the use of the

chopsticks demands very great skill, but that is only the prejudice of

those accustomed to the use of the fork. A child can learn how to use

the chopsticks as easily as the utensils in use in Europe. It may be

mentioned that we also make use of forks for roast meats, and of spoons

for taking up liquids. The Book of Rites, which deals with all the

acts of life, mentions that chopsticks are to be used for all purposes

except for drinking soup. The use of the spoon was thus consecrated many

centuries ago. The chopsticks are not plain, shapeless pieces of wood.

They are made of bamboo, or of more precious woods, and also of ivory and

silver. The top part, which is from eight to ten inches long, by from

four to six broad, is square, the remaining part being round. On one

of the sides of the square top part, poems and pictures are engraved.

Under the reign of the Han family, the Emperor was dining one day at a

political banquet with his ministers, when one of them—Tcheng-Liang by

name—rose to his feet and said: “Your majesty’s cause is lost. I have

just consulted my chopsticks.” And as it turned out, the Emperor’s plan

of conquest failed. Even to-day the cleverness of this statesman, who

knew how to disguise his own opinion in the form of a revelation by his

chopsticks, and to pass off his own advice as the result of a Divine

inspiration, is much admired.

Some centuries later, the famous dictator, Tchao-Tsao, was dining with

a rival of his, who tried to hide his ambition under the most modest

appearance. Tchao-Tsao was anxious to publicly expose the designs of his

rival, whom he had seen through, and began to talk of the bravest men

of the day. Each mentioned certain names, and finally Tchao-Tsao said,

“We two alone are really courageous men.” Hearing himself thus directly

named, Liou-Pei, as the rival was called, dropped his chopsticks just as

a clap of thunder was heard rolling through the sky. He tried to hide

his emotion, and said, “Ah! how great is the power of heaven, I really

was frightened.” But he was unable to divert the suspicion to which his

terror had given rise.

Under the reign of the Thangs, Kai-Yang presented a pair of gold

chopsticks to his Minister of State, Soung-King, saying that he made

him this present, not on account of the intrinsic value of the gold,

but because the chopsticks were symbolical by their shape of the

straightforwardness of his character.

It is recorded of a gourmet, named Ho-Tseng, who used to spend a large

sum of money on his food, without ever being able to satisfy his tastes,

that he fed like a prince, and though he spent upwards of a thousand

crowns on his table, did not consider a single dish worthy of his

chopsticks.

The number of historical anecdotes told about chopsticks is far too large

to be given here. Let me, however, quote one of these anecdotes;

“A sea-shell which had the elongated form of a stick, and

which is known as the solen or razor, is greatly appreciated

in China. It bears a mark on its side. It is said that an

Emperor having taken a solen up in his chopsticks, cast it into

the lake. The mollusc multiplied, but each of its descendants

preserve the traces of the chopsticks of Emperor Han-Ou-Ti.”

Let me conclude with four lines of poetry about the chopsticks, which

were written by one of our philosophers:

“I often wish to consult my chopsticks,

Which always taste what is bitter and what is sweet before we do.

But they answer that all good savour comes from the dishes themselves,

And that all that they do is to come and to go.”

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Chin-Chin; Or, The Chinaman at Home · 第 27 / 37 章