visiting: for though much of it consists of furze-clad mountains, yet
these are finely contrasted by the diversified scenery on the banks of
the Suir and Barrow, its eastern and western limits, and of the Nore
which divides it nearly in two. In several parts of the county the
mineralogist will find petrifactions or incrustations similar to those
of Derbyshire; especially on the banks of a stream which flows through
the glen of Ballyragget; and the Derbyshire farmers may here learn a
lesson from the Irish agriculturists, who have discovered that these
incrustations or depositions, which form with great rapidity, make an
excellent manure. In many parts also are found calcareous petrifactions
of pectunculites, echinites, cochlites, and some Cornua ammonis; and
in several places, particularly in the barony of Galmoy, (as stated
by Mr. Wakefield,) are tubiporites in such size and plenty as to be
often seen in the fields and on dry stone walls. The antiquities are
very numerous; Raths, Druidical Monuments, Castles, Abbeys, &c. are
scattered in all parts, but very ruinous. The rivers are on a large
scale, and the scenery pleasing. Bounded on the N.W. by Queen's County;
N. by Carlow; E. by Wexford; S.W. by Tipperary.
CALLEN, 7 m. S.W. of Kilkenny, has ruins of three Castles, and old
Gothic Ch., all destroyed by Cromwell. 1 m. see Eve Castle in ruins;
also very large Rath, 40 feet high, 46 yards by 24.
CASTLE COMER, 8 m. N. of Kilkenny; see the celebrated Kilkenny
coal-pits; beautiful mansion of Lady Ormond, the scene of several
battles during the rebellion. Town partly burnt down, but since
rebuilt.
CASTLE DURROW, 12 m. N.W. of Kilkenny, a town pleasantly situated on
the banks of the Erkin, a small river, with a good inn. Near it the
large old-fashioned mansion of Lord Ashbrooke. Roads good. Country
round well cultivated, with some wood. Several vestiges of Danish
Mounts. Visit Ballyspellan, 6 m. _S.W._, a celebrated Spa, chalybeate,
with much to amuse the mineralogist; also Druidical remains. Fertagh
has curious old Ch., and Round Tower 96 feet high. At Freshford see
Irish inscription over Ch. door. Galmoy has numerous Danish Raths in
its vicinity.
DUNMORE CAVE, 5 m. N.W. of Kilkenny, is one of the most remarkable in
the island. Proceed to the Ch. of Mothe, a little to the southward of
which, in a field on the slope of a gently rising hill, is the mouth
of the cave, which opens into a large oval pit, about 40 or 50 yards
wide, apparently formed by the sinking in of the surface, at the
eastern end. To this there is a descent of 70 feet from the opposite
quarter, over the rubbish of stone and clay; but the other sides of
the pit are perpendicular. Rabbits often burrow near the entrance;
and the first cavern, which is spacious, but of an irregular form, is
generally a shelter for wild pigeons. To the roof of this cavern is an
altitude of at least 50 feet; the floor slopes downwards, and towards
the left the tourist arrives at a narrow passage which leads by a
slippery ascent to the interior cavern. The difficulty of approach to
this spot is amply repaid by the wonders within, where a great variety
of stalagmitic concretions, added to the rugged forms of the rocks,
exhibit a most singular and striking appearance. The tourist who
wishes to explore all the wonders, must now proceed to the upper end,
which becomes much narrower, but soon expands into a larger apartment.
Beyond this there are other winding passages and other caves; but as
neither Mr. Wakefield nor Mr. Walker seems to have explored them, it
perhaps remains for some adventurous tourist to discover wonders equal
to the caves of Trophonius or even Montesinos. Those who choose not to
proceed further may consult Mr. Tighe's Survey of the County, where
various other circumstances are stated. It is said that one of those
passages leads to the other side of the hill, where day-light may be
seen to enter through a narrow chink. In another of the inner caverns,
imagination supposes the calcareous concretions to have assumed the
form of an organ; in another, of a cross and altar. A stream of
water passes through the cavern at a considerable distance from its
entrance; and many skulls and other human bones have been found near
to it, also in the more interior passages beyond it. Some of these
skulls have been seen petrified, as it is called, or covered with the
calcareous spar. The mineralogist may here pick up some specimens of
an indurated clay, tinted by carbon, and called in the vicinity black
chalk. Upon the whole, a visit to this place cannot fail to be highly
gratifying to the tourist; though he will meet with some difficulties
in exploring it, as the bottom is always damp and slippery, and rugged
withal, from the stalactites formed by the dripping water on its very
irregular flooring.
ENNISTEAGUE, or INNISTIOGUE, 12 m. S.E. of Kilkenny, has a handsome
Bridge and some pleasing scenery.--See the enchanting and picturesque
glen at Woodstock, near Glanmore, with ruins of Ch. and Castle, in
whose winding recesses nature and art have done every thing possible
to embellish the scene.
GOWRAN, 8 m. E. of Kilkenny, stands on a pleasant stream.--See Ch.
in ruins, a fine specimen of the middle Gothic. In the cemetery are
the bones of the officers of the Castle garrison shot by order of
Cromwell for their gallant defence. See Low Grange, 1 m., modern
mansion erected on ruins of ancient Castle. Visit Graignemanach lying
in a sequestered vale on the romantic banks of the Barrow, which
claims the tourist's notice by majestic ruins of an extensive Abbey,
of which the architecture and sculpture excite our admiration even in
its present dilapidated state. It is built in the form of a cross; and
its outline pretty entire. The arch leading into the choir, rising to
the roof with double mouldings and supported by clustered pillars, is
a very fine specimen of the Gothic. It is impossible to view the two
plates of it given by Grose, without wishing to explore its venerable
arcades. It was a mitred Abbey, and founded in 1212; but particularly
remarkable for having been the depository of a "Doomsday Book," or
Survey of the Island, begun by Henry II., and finished under the
orders of John.
KILKENNY, the county town, is 57 m. S.W. of Dublin.--The Castle is an
interesting object to the inquisitive tourist, originally begun in
the 12th century by Strongbow, and completed by William de Mareschal,
Earl of Pembroke. Great part of the ancient edifice has survived the
various convulsions of civil anarchy, now repaired and beautified so
as to form a conspicuous ornament to the city, on a rising ground,
with a rapid descent to the Nore, and on the other sides fortified by
walls and towers, the Gothic grandeur of whose remains is disfigured
in the eye of taste, by a lofty marble entrance gate of the Corinthian
order. Much fine tapestry, in fresh and lively colours, representing
the story of Decius, will interest the visitor on entering the
breakfast-room. See also the alcove or presence-chamber, hung with
tapestry, with a chair of state raised a step above the floor, a
remnant of ancient pomp, now superseded by the simpler habits of
modern nobility. The other parts of the mansion have also been well
fitted up for the fashionable conviviality which has recently graced
its walls. The ball-room or gallery is of great length, and contains
pictures, many of which are highly interesting, being the portraits of
the gay court of the 2d Charles. See also the Countess's Dressing-room
in an octagon tower; the Chapel, and, if permitted, the Evidence
Room, which contains an immense mass of valuable MSS., materials
partially gleaned by Carte, the historian. Near the city is the
Cathedral Ch. of St. Canice, of considerable antiquity, being, in its
finished state, of the reign of Edward the 1st, and still in very good
preservation. It stands on an eminence, with a descent on all sides;
and the Ch. yard is entered, from the town, by a flight of marble
steps. The cemetery being planted with trees has a romantic effect,
and presents a very extensive prospect over a rich vicinage. In the
interior the seats of the choir and gallery are of oak varnished, and
the whole plain, but remarkably neat. The compass ceiling is adorned
with fretwork, and has many modillions, and in the centre a group
of foliage, festoons, and cherubim. In the nave and aisles are many
beautiful sepulchral Monuments. It is the Cathedral of the see of
Ossory; and close to it is a very curious Round Tower. The Dominican
or Black Abbey, an extensive ruin, with the elegant ramifications
of some of its Gothic windows in pretty good preservation, stands
low, and is surrounded by squalid huts, which disfigure its outside
and take off much of the sombre effect of its venerable walls. The
windows, especially the east one, are light and elegant: the arcades
are open and airy; and the towers spring up with an airy elegance
that seizes at once upon the traveller's attention. The Abbey of
St. Francis, with its square Tower springing from a lofty Gothic
arch, is worthy the tourist's notice, though much disfigured in its
interior by the squalid cabins of poverty and idleness, and by part
of its precincts being turned into a horse barrack. The great altar
is a marble slab of amazing size; but perhaps the most remarkable
circumstance about the place is the legendary story of a sainted lady
who built part of the choir, and whose extreme chastity induced her
to descend a virgin into the grave at the age of 70, although she had
been married young and to several husbands. The ruins of St. John's
Abbey, part of which has been converted into a foot barrack, present
some very fine specimens of the light Gothic in the windows and
corridors. Founded in 1220. See the marble mill, about 2 m. from the
city, and on the left bank of the river; a very ingenious invention,
alike admirable for the simplicity of its construction, and for the
power which it exerts. The saws are made of soft iron, and will last
but a week; each cutting about ten or twelve inches per day, equal to
the labour of two men. Not far from these mills are various marble
quarries; but the most curious mineralogical specimen is called
Sidero-calcite, so plentiful as to have been used for repairing the
roads. Unlike the other marbles, it cannot be burnt into lime; but it
contains a quantity of iron and manganese; and as it is brittle and
friable, it has been proposed as an ingredient in mortar or cement
used for building under water. Visit Clogmanta Hill, about 10 m.
N.W., where are some extensive Druidical remains, with a magnificent
prospect from the summit. Rathbeath, 5 m. N., is supposed to be the
ancient Argat-Ross, where in early times a silver mine existed, whence
the first Irish coinage took place.
KNOCTOPHER, 9 m. S. of Kilkenny, stands pleasantly on the banks of a
rivulet which flows into the Nore. Bessborough, 8 m. S., is a handsome
seat of the Earl of that name, in a park of 500 acres; the house 100
feet in length, with elegant hall, saloon and parlour containing
numerous fine paintings, of the Italian and Flemish schools. See
various Cromlechs and other Druidical remains at Garryduff-hill,
especially Leibe ne Cuhn, or the Priest's Grave, with stone cells.
Grandison or Grany Castle, though apparently not older than the
reign of Henry VIII., being in the style of domestic fortification
of that period, and now almost a total ruin, is yet far from being
an uninteresting object, not only in picturesque effect with its
numerous towers, but as affording a good idea of the insecure state
of society during that unsettled period. It has three Round Towers on
the Suir, and two Courts; a large square Tower, connected to a great
hall, and another Round Tower form the other side; in the inside of
the arch of a window in the hall is a grotesque angel holding a shield
with the arms of Butler. It was built by Margaret, the great Countess
of Ormonde, at a period when ladies of high birth seem to have been
proud of exercising the masculine authority of the other sex. Kells,
a pleasant little place, 3 m. N., has some pretty river scenery. At
Kilbeacon see Earl's Rath, a very large fort, oblong, and surrounded
by a deep fosse, formerly filled with water, with a bank about 20 feet
high; in the area are remains of buildings. Kilmogue has a curious
Cromlech, the upper stone, 45 feet in circumference, supported by
several others, nine in number. The stones are of siliceous breccia,
and it is still known by the name of Lachan Scahl, the Great Altar
Stone. At Mullinavat, the mineralogist will find considerable
amusement in his researches. At Tory-hill, to the S.E. about 7 m.,
and called in the Irish, Sleigh Grian, or the Hill of the Sun, see a
circular space on the very summit, covered with stones, in which is
one large squared stone, 5 feet long, resting on three others, with an
inscription in the ancient Pelasgic characters, BELIDIVOSE, supposed
to be a dedication to the Deity, under the name of Bel, Baal, or
Apollo.
THOMASTOWN, 9 m. S.E. from Kilkenny, deserves the notice of the
antiquary from its being one of the most ancient towns in the
island, being founded by one of the chiefs of Henry II. in his first
expedition. From this Thomas Fitz-Anthony it derives its nomenclature.
Its principal remnant of antiquity is the Abbey, of which there are
some considerable fragments; one end being fitted up as the parish
Ch. There is a venerable Tower at one angle; and the Gothic arcades
afford some fine specimens of the lancet arch, evidently of a date
posterior to the foundation of the town itself. In the ruinous part of
the edifice, the tourist will notice a large sepulchral stone, which
is reported in traditionary legends to cover the body of a giant.
Its trade is considerably increasing in consequence of the river
navigation. The river Argula falls into the Nore, close by Ballyduff,
where are ruins of an old Castle. About 2 m. above it, on the banks
of the Nore, are the ruins of the Abbey of Jerpoint, a Cistertian
establishment as early as 1180. Its remains, which are extensive, more
resemble a fortress than an Abbey; and it has a very fine light and
airy Tower with four pinnacles. The picturesque tourist when at this
place must not omit a most romantic walk to a secluded dell and glen
at Kilfaun, about 1-1/2 m. in length, well described by Wakefield, who
notices an elegant cottage placed in a situation truly delightful;
opposite to which is a waterfall, the rivulet running through the lawn
and flower garden, having on both sides rocks ornamented with large
evergreens, the whole scene exhibiting numerous beauties both of art
and nature. Near Thomastown is Mount Juliet, the seat of the Earl
of Carrick, which, though in a neglected state as described by Mr.
Wakefield, is deserving of notice; the house being built in the old
fashioned style of architecture, and standing immediately on the banks
of the romantic and rapid Nore.
MINERALOGY.
Granite in various parts of the county; particularly on Brandon
mountain near Gowran, with siliceous schistus, containing mica,
crystals, and jasper. Pyrites and quartz near Inistioge. Black slate
and hone-stones near Castle Durrow. Kilkenny coal near Castle Comer.
Some pieces of very fine compact jasper, of various sizes, may be found
on the borders of the granite district in the S. The specimens already
discovered were of a deep red colour, for the most part obtusely
angular, and squarer at one end than the other: they were imbedded in
yellow clay, a few feet below the surface.
The mineralogist may feel gratified by the examination of a very fine
granite quarry in the vicinity of Gowran. It is a beautiful stone of
a light yellow cast, fine grained and compact, and may be taken up in
blocks of any required size.
On the top of Drumdowny Hill, the extremity of an extensive range,
there is a dry stone wall inclosing a space of about 300 acres,
appropriated for quarrying a species of breccia, or pudding stone,
which is cut into mill-stones.
BOTANY.
_Borago officinalis_, Burrage:--on the ruins of Grandison Castle.
_Erica cinerea_, Female Heath; with white flowers:--on moist sides of
hills.
_Humulus Lupulus_, or Hops:--indigenous evidently in many parts of the
county.
_Iris Pseud-acorus_, Common Flags or Saggons:--in wet grounds.
_Lichen_, Common Mosses; with all the varieties of _caninus_,
_physodes_, _farinaceus_, &c.:--in many places.
_Lonicera_ var. _fol. quercinis_, Oak-leaved Honey-Suckle:--in the S.E.
district, in meadows.
_Lycopodium alpinum_, Alpine Moss:--on the hills on western side of the
Nore.
_Lycopodium clavatum_, Club Moss:--near Inistiogue.
_Lycopodium Selago_, Ladies' Shamrock:--in moist grounds on the banks
of the Nore.
_Rumex Acetosa_, Sorrel:--in moist meadows.
_Rumex acutus_, Sharp Dock:--on clayey soils in the north.
_Verbena officinalis_, Vervain:--in pastures, and on road sides.
KING'S COUNTY.
This is one of the small Irish inland counties, long and narrow,
bordering in some degree upon the Shannon, and traversed by the canal
intended to unite the Irish Channel with that river.--It is flat and
often boggy, especially in that district called the Bog of Allen; with
the exception of the range of hills that separate it from the Queen's
County, called the Sliebh-bloom mountains. Bounded N. by East and West
Meath; E. by Kildare and Queen's County; S. by Tipperary; and W. by
Galway and the River Shannon.
BALLYBOY, 17 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is nearly central to the
county, on the Silver river, and but an inconsiderable village,
with ruins of several Castles in its vicinity. See Anna lake and
remains of Killinany Castle. At Ballycumber, ruins of a Castle, and
a Ch. At Ferbane, beyond the Brosna, 10 m. N.W., see ruins of Cool
and Killcolgan Castles; and near it are the ruins of Clonmacnoise,
celebrated as the cemetery of numerous chieftains, priests, &c. These
splendid remains are seated in the midst of delightful scenery, on a
rising ground on the banks of the Shannon. See an ornamented Cross,
fifteen feet high, standing near Teanpull Mac Diermid. It is in a
rich style of sculpture, exhibiting the duties of Christianity, and
some legendary stories of St. Kiaran, (A.D. 549,) the patron saint.
The doors of the Ch. of Teanpull are also deserving of notice for
their statues and ornamented architecture. Here are also two stone
Crosses, and another nearer to Ferban, with ruins of several Castles.
The episcopal palace is also in ruins, about 1/2 m. distant, besides
some remains of a Nunnery. Many inscriptions in the Irish and the
learned languages may be traced in the sepulchral Monuments; and the
whole scene assimilates well with the wild and romantic landscape that
surrounds it. Frankford is a small town, 3 m. N.W., with a Charter
School, and some remains of a roofless Chapel.
BANAGHER, 30 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is seated on the E. bank of the
Shannon, with pleasing river scenery and two bridges: a well built
town, and good station for the tourist. Cloghan, 4 m., a village
with a most comfortable inn, rendering it a convenient resting-place
for the pedestrian artist wishing to examine the surrounding wild
landscape. The statist may also derive considerable pleasure from
investigating the progress of civilization and improvement resulting
from the judicious planting and cultivation across the river Silver,
by the Rev. Dr. Mullock, at Bellair, and from the erection of a
village well planned, with neatness, cleanliness, and a good police
as its main objects, in concert with the introduction of the Linen
Manufacture.
BIRR, 28 m. S.W. of Philipstown, and seated on a river of the same
name, was formerly called PARSONSTOWN, from the family to which
it belongs, who have a castellated mansion in the outskirts. The
town itself is new, and well built, of a good size, and the streets
regularly laid out; with a square, called Duke's Square, from a
statue of the Duke of Cumberland erected on a lofty stone column. The
tourist will find a good inn at the King's Arms. See the fine old
and venerable Castle, the mansion of the Earl of Ross, which stood a
siege by General Sarsfield in the war of the Revolution. Excellent
Market-house, and Infantry Barrack. Canger, to the S.E., towards the
Sliebh-bloom mountains, manifests how much may be done in Ireland
by the exertions of an individual. Here, by the judicious care of
Mr. Atkinson, aided indeed by the neighbouring gentlemen, much has
recently been accomplished; whiskey is giving place to malt liquor;
the people quiet and loyal, though illiterate; and other improvements
daily taking place. Excellent houses are also building for the
tenants; labouring wages have been generously raised; the children
constantly employed, and industry and content going hand in hand.
Agricultural improvements and experiments are here practised, to the
manifest instruction of the hitherto neglected farmer. At Drummoyle, 4
m., see the ancient Castle of Leap, with the incongruous addition of
two modern wings to its Gothic centre. In the ancient part the walls
are 14 feet thick. Dunkerron has a comfortable inn for those who wish
to explore the southern angle of the county, and the Sliebh-bloom
mountains. Near it see Franfort, the antique mansion of Mr. Rolleston,
regularly defended with fortifications, a fosse and draw-bridge;
also a modern, elegant, and spacious mansion house at Greenhills.
In the Sliebh-bloom mountains, see a large pyramid of white stones,
the emblem of the Sun-fire amongst the Celtic nations, from whence
arose their ancient name of Bladhma, or Beal-di-mai, the necromancy
of Baal's-day. They extend through a range of 15 miles, through which
there is but one steep, narrow, and craggy pass, called Glandine Gap,
not more than five feet wide, called by some the Irish Thermopylæ, and
leading into Tipperary. At Rathmore, or the Great Rock, examine that
extensive work once fortified by numerous towers, but now yielding to
the hand of peaceful improvement. Shinrone has a handsome Ch., and
Market-house, with a good Classical School.
EDENDERRY, 8 m. N.E. of Philipstown, a pleasant village inhabited by
Quakers.--See ruins of Castle on a hill; and near it, spacious ruins
of a Monastery.
PHILIPSTOWN, 39 m. S.W. from Dublin, took its name from Philip of
Spain, being in a new shire incorporated by Queen Mary.--See ruins of
Castle on bank of the river, with the spacious Gaol,--this, though
a sorry village, being the county town. Near it see Croghan-hill,
conical, and beautifully clothed with the most luxuriant verdure to
its top; with ruins of Ch. at the base, and ancient cemetery at the
summit.
PORTARLINGTON, 10 m. S.E., stands partly in this county, partly in
Queen's, being divided by the river Barrow.
TULLAMORE, 7 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is divided in two by the river
Clodagh. Here the tourist will find a good inn and accommodations
at the Charleville Arms near the bridge. The town was burnt down a
few years ago, but is reviving rapidly, with a busy and flourishing
aspect, under the auspices of Lord Charleville; intersected by a canal
leading from Dublin to the Shannon, on which a covered boat is fitted
for passengers. A short distance, and on the banks of the canal, see
a small square fortress in good preservation. See Charleville Castle,
a magnificent mansion in all respects, erected in the Gothic style,
but yet wanting the hoary hand of time to darken its castellated
battlements, being built of limestone, which does not yet harmonize
with the foliage of a flat park, or with the artificial piece of water
formed in its front. The scenery in the demesne is very fine, with
cascades, grottoes, rustic bridges, &c., &c. Clara, 10 m. W., is a
neat handsome village, surrounded by the Linen Manufactory. Geashill,
3 m. S.E., has ruins of an ancient lofty Castle, the residence of the
O'Molloys, which, defended by a lady, made a strong resistance against
Cromwell. Near it a celebrated spring, and ruins of an Abbey.
MINERALS.
The Sliebh-bloom mountains offer a fine field of research to the
mineralogical and geological tourist; being at present virgin ground.
In other parts may be found, manganese, iron ore, ochres, with
limestone and potter's clay.