island. It contains several lakes; but as the scenery round these is
not very romantic, they are but little known to the tourist; and the
aspect is not improved by the dry stone walls or hedges; except in the
western district, where the beautiful shores of Lough Corrib will repay
the trouble of a visit, through an extensive tract of irreclaimable bog
and mountain. On the sea coast it is picturesquely broken by numerous
arms of the sea; and its rivers deserve the notice of the inquisitive
tourist. Dr. Beaufort observes, that several of these rivers are
subterraneous in part of their course: near the village of Shrull,
on the borders of Mayo, the Black river runs under ground for about
3 miles; but the most remarkable fact is that of the Moyne and the
Clare, which unite their streams under ground, alternately appearing
and retiring from view at the Turlachmore, which in winter forms a
lake and in summer a beautiful and sound sheepwalk, upwards of 6 m. in
length and 2 in breadth. Bounded W. by the Atlantic; N. by Mayo; N.E.
by Roscommon; E. by King's County, Tipperary, and the Shannon; S. by
Clare, and Galway bay.
AGHRIM, 24 m. E. of Galway, is a small village; but noticeable as
the scene of battle between Ginkle and St. Ruth in the war of the
Revolution, 12th July, 1691, when the latter, with his French and
Irish army, was completely defeated. The scene of action was on
Kilcomodon Hill. See the beautiful demesne of Ballydonnellan, also
Ballydugan; ruins of old Castles; and the magnificent demesne of Wood
Lawn. But this place and its surrounding scenery may be visited from
Loughrea.
ATHENRY, 10 m. N.E. of Galway, now in decay; once a strong English
fortification; its walls built in 1211. See Dominican monastery, noble
even in its ruins. The tower and several of the gable windows are very
fine; but its appearance is much altered by a part having been fitted
up for the reception of the garrison, the cloisters forming the
modern barrack-yard. Ancient Castle of the Lords Birmingham, in ruins;
with lofty tower and ivy-mantled walls, affording a good idea of the
feudal manners on the borders of the Pale. At Knockmoy, 7 m. N., see
ruins of a monastery, with an ancient tomb of the O'Connors adorned
with sepulchral mementos in fresco painting.
BALLINASLOE, 30 m. E. of Galway, is on the very verge of the county,
and interesting to the statistical tourist from its autumnal fair for
cattle, under the immediate patronage of the Farming Society. (_See
further Mr. Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 229.)
CLONFERT, 30 m. E. of Galway, is an ancient bishopric.--Visit the
beautiful ruins of the Cathedral, especially the W. front (1270).
This was the scene of frequent battles during the irruptions of the
Danes. Hall speaks highly of this place; observing, that the planting
and improvement about the Bishop's Palace render Clonfert a little
paradise. Visit Shannon Bridge and the round tower, at a place called
the Seven Churches.
GALWAY, the county town, is 102 m. W. of Dublin, formerly fortified
and celebrated in the wars of the Revolution; but now dismantled, and
every trace disappearing. The architecture of the old town gloomy
and massive; of the suburbs, elegant and airy. See 3 Nunneries,
3 Friaries, and 3 Barracks; Court-houses; Infirmary; magnificent
Gothic Ch.; massy Gaol; and coarse woollen manufacture. The bay is
very fine, sheltered at its entrance by the isles of Arran; but the
country around is described by Mr. Curwen as having the most singular
appearance he ever beheld, resembling the seat of a volcanic eruption
from the immense blocks of limestone scattered over a space of great
extent, with scarce a symptom of vegetation. See ruined tower of
Ballensnave Castle; Caher Morres, a small hamlet, 11 m. N., but with
good inn, as a station for the northern shores of Lough Corrib; Clare
Galway, ancient Abbey, with lofty tower and fine Gothic east window;
also splendid ruins of a strongly built castle; Dun Aengus in the
greater isle of Arran, is a circle of large stones on a lofty cliff, a
remnant of ancient fortification: Rosserally has extensive ruins of a
monastery (1498). Turlaghmore, already alluded to, may from hence be
visited.
LOUGH CORRIB possesses some romantic scenery; and is about 20 m. long,
and at the broadest part 11; being contracted in the middle so as to
appear like two lakes. The collector may here pick up some very good
specimens of pearls from a muscle peculiar to the lake. The scenery on
its western shores is a chain of wild and stupendous mountains, with
some few fertile valleys. It contains many pretty islands; and here
is caught the gillaroo trout, with a gizzard like a fowl, esteemed
a great delicacy. Headfort, on its northern shore, is a well-built
village, with venerable Ch. and barrack; near it an ancient mansion of
the St. George family.
LOUGH DERG is a wide reach of the Shannon, which may be visited from
Portumna. In it is a beautiful island, on which is a round tower 70
feet high, and the remains of 7 Churches.
LOUGH REA, 16 m. E. of Galway, is a well built village, and will
receive the tourist in exploring the eastern district as a central
station. See the fine lake; pleasing prospects; ruins of the old
Castle of the De Burghs; various castle ruins in the vicinity.
Dalystown, the handsome mansion and demesne of the Daly family. Gort,
10 m. S.W., is a neat though small village, 2 m. from which ruins of
Cathedral at Kilmacduagh, and round tower 112 feet high, inclining
17-1/2 feet from the perpendicular, being 4 more than the tower of
Pisa. Here are places called the Swallows, into which several streams
are engulfed, and rise afterwards into day. Kilconnel Abbey, in ruins,
has a lofty tower and some fine arcades.
OUCHTERARD, 20 m. N.W. from Galway, is a small village, but forms
a good station for the tourist who will persevere in examining
the western district of the county. Here is a chalybeate, and its
situation is considered peculiarly salubrious. If the tourist chooses,
he may penetrate to Ballynahinch, a small village, but worthy a visit,
being situated in that district called Connemara; mountainous, and
intersected by numerous bays affording great diversity of scenery. It
stands at the foot of the vast ridge of Beannabeola, or the Twelve
Pins, consisting principally of perpendicular rocks, with a charming
lake extending for several miles in its immediate vicinity; round
which the hills are watered by rivers and small lakes, and sheltered
by the venerable remains of ancient woods, among which are to be found
a simple rude people, inhabiting what is generally called "Joyce's
Country," forming a distinct class in manners and in appearance.
The western shores of Lough Corrib may be visited from Ouchterard;
also Lough Mask. See also the small district of Ross, N. of it, a
sequestered spot, whose solitary wilds have scarcely yet been trod by
civilized man.
PORTUMNA, 30 m. S.E. of Galway, and on the banks of Lough Derg,
forms a good station for that district.--A neat village with wooden
bridge across the Shannon. See the Castle, a venerable mansion of the
Clanricards: ruins of an Abbey, walls nearly entire, the choir of
parish Ch. Eyre Court, 2 m., a straggling village. See the venerable
Castle. Numerous ruins of Castles in the vicinity. At Tynagh see
ruins of Palace Castle in the midst of a grove; also the Ch. Near it
Flowerhill, a delightful residence of Lord Riverston. Spring Garden,
and other good seats of the gentry.
TUAM, 16 m. N.E. of Galway; large and populous.--See Cathedral;
venerable Palace; elegant Mall. See Claddagh Castle in a wild and
sombre district; Dunmore, with ruins of an Abbey; Newton Butler and
Castle Bellaw, a fine seat, with ruins of a Castle.
BOTANY.
_Aquilegia vulgaris_, Columbine:--in woods near Clunetuescart.
_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--in the Isles of Arran.
_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--at Milleek.
_Erica Daboicia_, Irish Heath:--on the mountains.
_Gentiana campestris_, Vernal Dwarf Gentian:--on the mountains between
Gort and Galway.
_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--on mountains.
_Lycopodium Selago_, Upright Fir-moss:--on the mountains near Galway.
_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--in meadows and pastures
and under hedges in Pallace near Tynagh.
[Illustration: _Engraved for the Scientific Tourist._
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
_Published by J. Booth, Duke Street, Portland Place, 1818._]
KERRY.
Famous in Ireland as the landing-place of the Milesians. This county
was long impassable for tourists; but much has been done by the
resident gentlemen, who have shortened many of the old roads, carrying
them in straight lines over rocks and morasses, deep glens and rugged
mountains; so that not only the approach to the Lakes of Killarney, but
also to many other interesting tracts, is much facilitated. It is a
maritime district, indented with numerous bays and harbours; rugged and
mountainous, but justly celebrated for its lake and mountain scenery.
It has been observed indeed by Mr. Wakefield, that in this county the
attention of the tourist is so much occupied with Killarney, that the
romantic scenery in other parts is either overlooked or forgotten;--yet
it ought not to be consigned to neglect, as there is a great deal of it
(though inferior to that of Killarney) which is still worthy of being
noticed. Bounded on the N. by the Shannon; on the S. and W. by the
Atlantic Ocean; and on the E. by Cork and Limerick counties.
ARDFERT, 4 m. N.W. of Tralee, is now a decayed village, though
an episcopal see in early times. It has the ruins of a splendid
Cathedral, with curious monuments and gravestones, and a sculptured
figure of St. Brandon. Ruins of round tower. To the E., ruins of
Franciscan Friary, a venerable structure, from whence follow road
leading to the sea and mansion of the Crosbie family. Visit Ballyheigh
bay with fine strand; ancient Castle of Ballykeal; Castle on Ferrit
Island; Kerryhead surrounded by picturesque and savage wildness;
Kilcroghan, where is a curious hermitage cut in the rock, also a
Danish fortification; Lixnaw the ancient seat of the Earls of Kerry;
Odorney Abbey in ruins; remains of Rahanane Castle, once an episcopal
residence; and lofty round tower at Rattoo. The tourist must employ a
guide in surveying this district.
CASTLE ISLAND, 9 m. E. of Tralee, a decayed village on the route to
Killarney, though anciently the shire town. See parish Ch.; roofless
town house, barracks, &c.--As there are some decent inns, the tourist
may from hence visit some of the scenery to the E. of Killarney.
DINGLE, 16 m. W. of Tralee, forms a station for the wild western
district.--See Gaol built on vaults of Old Castle. Notice the various
houses built in Spanish fashion, with stone balconies. See the
mansion of the Knight of Kerry; the ruins of an ancient Monastery;
also of part of the old parish Ch. and monuments of the Fitzgerald
family. 1 m. N.E. see the vitriolic spa of Ballybeg; also Burnham, or
Ballingolin Castle. Whilst exploring the wild beauty of this vicinity,
the tourist will be amply repaid for his labour, by a journey across
the Brandon mountains towards Tralee Bay. The views which they afford
are highly picturesque, and the prospects from almost every eminence
are very extensive. Ventry Bay merits investigation; on the western
point, Caher Trant, are remains of a Danish entrenchment, and another
at Rathanane, near a ruined Castle of the Fitzgeralds; also a stone
Cell near it. Some historical interest is given to this isthmus, by
a tradition that it was the last ground in Ireland possessed by the
Danes; and there is a curious story about it in Hanmer's Chronicle,
illustrative of the manners of those early times. A little further
west is what is esteemed the _furthest_ extremity of the island, to
which, like Johnny Groat's house in Caithness, is given "a local
habitation and a name," its appellation being "Tyvorney Geerane," or
_Molly Geerane's house_. From hence the tourist may visit Blasket
Islands, remarkable for the simplicity of the inhabitants, for ancient
religious ruins, and for a great variety of aquatic fowls, some
rivalling the ortolan.
IVERAGH BARONY forms the S.W. extremity of Ireland, and will afford
great delight to a tourist who fears not fatigue and privations.
Visit the romantic Lake of Currane, of an oval form, 3 m. in length,
surrounded by lofty mountains. In it are three small islands; on one
of which, ruins of a Ch. and Cell, with marks of foundations under
water. See the river Inny, with ruins of Ch. and Bridge. Dowles
Head is near Valentine Island: here are several large Caves, one
of which has an entrance so low as scarcely to admit a boat with
a man standing up, but within it is as high as a Gothic cathedral.
There is a most curious echo; and when a person speaks, his voice
is so reverberated from side to side as to seem louder than a
speaking-trumpet. Glanbehy parish, the easternmost of the barony of
Iveragh, has a most romantic but dangerous road, resembling that
of Penmonmawr in Wales; and over which indeed, according to the
traditions of the country, none but poets should attempt to pass;
since in the opinion of its neighbours it is necessary to make some
verses to its honour, otherwise, as they affirm, the traveller will
meet with some mischance. Perhaps it was some similar superstition
that gave rise to the custom of the _album_ in the monasteries
situated in the mountainous passes of Switzerland and Italy. The
Hags-tooth mountain is of great height, with many romantic lakes.
Visit the Skelig Islands, containing several ecclesiastical ruins,
and the scene of modern pilgrimages. They offer much amusement to the
geologist. Valentia, in this district, affords slight accommodation.
KENMARE is a small neat town, within the compass of the Killarney
tour, and a good station for much romantic scenery.--The approach to
this town, even before it is seen, is very romantic; along a road
winding up to the summit of a mountain, between which and another
of tremendous altitude, is a deep glen, where the scenery is much
improved by the contrast of the superincumbent rugged barrenness.
"Here," says Mr. Wakefield, "the eye is sometimes attracted by
a solitary herd of goats browsing among the heath below; while
cultivation, gradually extending up the sides of the hills, forms a
pleasing contrast with the desert and more prominent features of the
prospect." In the vicinity are several small islands in Kenmare river,
consisting of beautiful specimens of variegated marble. These islands
are also interesting to the botanical tourist, from the varieties of
Arbutus and Juniper, with the immense number of marine and aquatic
plants which fringe their romantic sides. See the Fairy rock, and
Glanerought vale.