ile [_a mile_] we were intercepted with great craggy stones in the
midst of the riuer, where the water falleth so rudely, and with such a
violence, as not any boat can possibly passe, and so broad disperseth
the streame, as there is not past fiue or sixe Foote at a low water,
and to the shore scarce passage with a barge, the water floweth foure
foote, and the freshes by reason of the Rockes haue left markes of the
inundations 8. or 9. foote: The south side is plaine low ground, and
the north side high mountaines, the rockes being of a grauelly nature,
interlaced with many vains of glistring spangles.
That night we returned to _Powhatan_: the next day (being Whitsunday
after dinner) we returned to the fals, leauing a mariner in pawn with
the Indians for a guide of theirs, hee that they honoured for King
followed vs by the riuer. That afternoone we trifled in looking vpon
the Rockes and riuer (further he would not goe) so there we erected a
crosse, and that night taking our man at _Powhatans_, Captaine
_Newport_ congratulated his kindenes with a Gown and a Hatchet:
returning to _Arsetecke_, and stayed there the next day to obserue the
height [_latitude_] thereof, and so with many signes of loue we
departed.
[Illustration: ~Storm at Sea.~]
WILLIAM STRACHEY.
WILLIAM STRACHEY[3] was an English gentleman who came over to Virginia
with Sir Thomas Gates in 1609, and was secretary of the Colony for
three years. Their ship, the _Sea Venture_, was wrecked on the
Bermudas in a terrible tempest, of which he gives the account that
follows. It is said to have suggested to Shakspere the scene of the
storm and hurricane in his "Tempest."
WORKS.
A True Repertory of the Wracke and Redemption of Sir Thomas Gates
upon and from the Islands of the Bermudas.
Historie of Travaile into Virginia Brittania.
_Edited_ Lawes Divine, Morall, and Martiall.
William Strachey's writings show a thoughtful and cultivated mind. His
style abounds in the long involved and often obscure sentences of his
times, but his subject matter is usually very interesting. Compare the
following selection with Shakspere's "Tempest," Act I., scene 1 and 2,
to "_Ariel, thy charge_." Notice the reference to _Bermoothes_
(Bermudas).
A STORM OFF THE BERMUDAS.
(_From A True Repertory of the Wracke and Redemption of Sir Thomas
Gates._)
On St. James his day, July 24, being Monday (preparing for no less all
the black night before) the clouds gathering thick upon us, and the
winds singing and whistling most unusually, which made us to cast off
our Pinnace, towing the same until then asterne, a dreadful storm and
hideous began to blow from out the Northeast, which, swelling and
roaring as it were by fits, some hours with more violence than others,
at length did beat all light from heaven, which, like an hell of
darkness, turned black upon us, so much the more fuller of horror, as
in such cases horror and fear use to overrun the troubled and
overmastered senses of all, while (taken up with amazement) the ears
lay so sensible to the terrible cries, and murmurs of the winds and
distraction of our Company, as who was most armed and best prepared,
was not a little shaken. . .
For four and twenty hours the storm, in a restless tumult, had blown
so exceedingly, as we could not apprehend in our imaginations any
possibility of greater violence, yet did we still find it, not only
more terrible, but more constant, fury added to fury, and one storm
urging a second, more outrageous than the former, whether it so
wrought upon our fears, or indeed met with new forces. Sometimes
strikes in our Ship amongst women, and passengers not used to such
hurly and discomforts, made us look one upon the other with troubled
hearts, and panting bosoms, our clamors drowned in the winds, and the
winds in thunder. Prayers might well be in the heart and lips, but
drowned in the outcries of the Officers,--nothing heard that could
give comfort, nothing seen that might encourage hope. . . . .
Our sails, wound up, lay without their use, and if at any time we bore
but a Hollocke, or half forecourse, to guide her before the Sea, six
and sometimes eight men, were not enough to hold the whip-staffe in
the steerage, and the tiller below in the Gunner room; by which may be
imagined the strength of the storm, in which the Sea swelled above the
Clouds and gave battle unto heaven. It could not be said to rain, the
waters like whole Rivers did flood in the ayre. And this I did still
observe, that whereas upon the Land, when a storm hath poured itself
forth once in drifts of rain, the wind as beaten down, and vanquished
therewith, not long after endureth,--here the glut of water (as if
throatling the wind ere while) was no sooner a little emptied and
qualified, but instantly the winds (as having gotten their mouths now
free and at liberty) spake more loud, and grew more tumultuous and
malignant. What shall I say? Winds and Seas were as mad as fury and
rage could make them. . . . . . .
Howbeit this was not all; it pleased God to bring a greater affliction
yet upon us, for in the beginning of the storm we had received
likewise a mighty leak, and the ship in every joint almost having
spewed out her Okam, before we were aware (a casualty more desperate
than any other that a Voyage by Sea draweth with it) was grown five
feet suddenly deep with water above her ballast, and we almost drowned
within, whilest we sat looking when to perish from above. This,
imparting no less terror than danger, ran through the whole Ship with
much fright and amazement, startled and turned the blood, and took
down the braves of the most hardy Mariner of them all, insomuch as he
that before happily felt not the sorrow of others, now began to sorrow
for himself, when he saw such a pond of water so suddenly broken in,
and which he knew could not (with present avoiding) but instantly sink
him. . . .
Once so huge a Sea brake upon the poop and quarter, upon us, as it
covered our ship from stern to stem, like a garment or a vast cloud.
It filled her brimful for a while within, from the hatches up to the
spar deck. . .
Tuesday noon till Friday noon, we bailed and pumped two thousand tun,
and yet, do what we could, when our ship held least in her (after
Tuesday night second watch) she bore ten feet deep, at which stay our
extreme working kept her one eight glasses, forbearance whereof had
instantly sunk us; and it being now Friday, the fourth morning, it
wanted little but that there had been a general determination, to have
shut up hatches and commending our sinful souls to God, committed the
ship to the mercy of the sea. Surely that night we must have done it,
and that night had we then perished; but see the goodness and sweet
introduction of better hope by our merciful God given unto us. Sir
George Summers, when no man dreamed of such happiness, had discovered
and cried, "Land!" Indeed, the morning, now three-quarters spent, had
won a little clearness from the days before, and it being better
surveyed, the very trees were seen to move with the wind upon the
shore-side.
FOOTNOTE:
[3] Pronounced Str[va]k´ey.
JOHN LAWSON.
~Died 1712.~
JOHN LAWSON was a Scotch gentleman who came to America in 1700. In his
own words: "In the year 1700, when people flocked from all parts of
the Christian world, to see the solemnity of the grand jubilee at
Rome, my intention being at that time to travel, I accidentally met
with a gentlemen, who had been abroad, and was very well acquainted
with the ways of living in both Indies; of whom having made inquiry
concerning them, he assured me that Carolina was the best country I
could go to; and, that there then lay a ship in the Thames in which I
might have my passage." He resided in Carolina eight years. As "Gent.
Surveyor-General of North Carolina," he wrote his History of North
Carolina, which is an original, sprightly, and faithful account of the
eastern section of the State, and contains valuable matter for the
subsequent historian. It is dedicated to the Lords Proprietors of
Carolina, and was published in 1714.
He was taken captive by the Tuscarora Indians, while on a surveying
trip, and was by them put to death in 1712 on the Neuse River in
North Carolina, because, said they, "he had taken their land," by
marking it off into sections.
WORK.
History of North Carolina [rare].
NORTH CAROLINA IN 1700-1708.
(_From History of North Carolina, 1714._)
The first discovery and settlement of this country was by the
procurement of Sir Walter Raleigh, in conjunction with some public
spirited gentlemen of that age, under the protection of queen
Elizabeth; for which reason it was then named Virginia, being begun on
that part called Ronoak Island, where the ruins of a fort are to be
seen at this day, as well as some old English coins which have been
lately found; and a brass gun, a powder horn, and one small
quarter-deck gun, made of iron staves, and hooped with the same metal;
which method of making guns might very probably be made use of in
those days for the convenience of infant colonies. . . . . .
I cannot forbear inserting here a pleasant story that passes for an
uncontested truth amongst the inhabitants of this place; which is,
that the ship which brought the first colonies does often appear
amongst them, under sail, in a gallant posture, which they call Sir
Walter Raleigh's ship. And the truth of this has been affirmed to me
by men of the best credit in the country.
[Illustration: ~Sir Walter Raleigh.~]
A second settlement of this country was made about fifty years ago, in
that part we now call Albemarl county, and chiefly in Chuwon precinct,
by several substantial planters from Virginia and other plantations;
who finding mild winters, and a fertile soil beyond expectation,
producing everything that was planted to a prodigious increase;
. . . . so that everything seemed to come by nature, the husbandman
living almost void of care, and free from those fatigues which are
absolutely requisite in winter countries, for providing fodder and
other necessaries; these encouragements induced them to stand their
ground, although but a handful of people, seated at great distances
one from another, and amidst a vast number of Indians of different
nations, who were then in Carolina.
Nevertheless, I say, the fame of this new discovered summer country
spread through the neighboring colonies, and in a few years drew a
considerable number of families thereto, who all found land enough to
settle themselves in (had they been many thousands more), and that
which was very good and commodiously seated both for profit and
pleasure.
And, indeed, most of the plantations in Carolina naturally enjoy a
noble prospect of large and spacious rivers, pleasant savannas and
fine meadows, with their green liveries interwoven with beautiful
flowers of most glorious colors, which the several seasons afford;
hedged in with pleasant groves of the ever famous tulip tree, the
stately laurels and bays, equalizing the oak in bigness and growth,
myrtles, jessamines, woodbines, honeysuckles, and several other
fragrant vines and evergreens, whose aspiring branches shadow and
interweave themselves with the loftiest timbers, yielding a pleasant
prospect, shade and smell, proper habitations for the sweet singing
birds, that melodiously entertain such as travel through the woods of
Carolina.
The Planters possessing all these blessings, and the produce of great
quantities of wheat and indian corn, in which this country is very
fruitful, as likewise in beef, pork, tallow, hides, deer skins, and
furs; for these commodities the new England men and Bermudians visited
Carolina in their barks and sloops, and carried out what they made,
bringing them in exchange, rum, sugar, salt, molasses, and some
wearing apparel, though the last at very extravagant prices.
As the land is very fruitful, so are the planters kind and hospitable
to all that come to visit them; there being very few housekeepers but
what live very nobly, and give away more provisions to coasters and
guests who come to see them than they expend amongst their own
families. . .
The easy way of living in that plentiful country makes a great many
planters very negligent, which, were they otherwise, that colony might
now have been in a far better condition than it is, as to trade and
other advantages, which an universal industry would have led them
into. The women are the most industrious sex in that place, and, by
their good housewifery, make a great deal of cloth of their own
cotton, wool and flax; some of them keeping their families, though
large, very decently appareled, both with linens and woolens, so that
they have no occasion to run into the merchants' debt, or lay their
money out on stores for clothing.
. . . As for those women that do not expose themselves to the weather,
they are often very fair, and generally as well featured as you shall
see anywhere, and have very brisk, charming eyes which sets them off
to advantage. . . . .
Both sexes are generally spare of body and not choleric, nor easily
cast down at disappointments and losses, seldom immoderately grieving
at misfortunes, unless for the loss of their nearest relations and
friends, which seems to make a more than ordinary impression upon
them. Many of the women are very handy in canoes and will manage them
with great dexterity and skill, which they become accustomed to in
this watery country. They are ready to help their husbands in any
servile work, as planting, when the season of the weather requires
expedition; pride seldom banishing good housewifery. The girls are
not bred up to the wheel and sewing only, but the dairy and the
affairs of the house they are very well acquainted withal; so that you
shall see them, whilst very young, manage their business with a great
deal of conduct and alacrity. The children of both sexes are very
docile and learn any thing with a great deal of care and method, and
those that have the advantages of education write very good hands, and
prove good accountants, which is most coveted, and, indeed, most
necessary in these parts. The young men are commonly of a bashful,
sober behaviour; few proving prodigals to consume what the industry of
their parents has left them, but commonly improve it.
HARVEST HOME OF THE INDIANS.
(_From History of North Carolina._)
They have a third sort of feasts and dances, which are always when the
harvest of corn is ended, and in the spring. The one to return thanks
to the good spirit for the fruits of the earth; the other, to beg the
same blessings for the succeeding year. And to encourage the young men
to labour stoutly in planting their maiz and pulse, they set up a sort
of idol in the field, which is dressed up exactly like an Indian,
having all the Indians habit, besides abundance of Wampum and their
money, made of shells, that hangs about his neck. The image none of
the young men dare approach; for the old ones will not suffer them to
come near him, but tell them that he is some famous Indian warrior
that died a great while ago, and now is come amongst them to see if
they work well, which if they do, he will go to the good spirit and
speak to him to send them plenty of corn, and to make the young men
all expert hunters and mighty warriors. All this while, the king and
old men sit around the image and seemingly pay a profound respect to
the same. One great help to these Indians in carrying on these
cheats, and inducing youth to do as they please, is, the uninterrupted
silence which is ever kept and observed with all the respect and
veneration imaginable.
At these feasts which are set out with all the magnificence their fare
allows of, the masquerades begin at night and not before. There is
commonly a fire made in the middle of the house, which is the largest
in the town, and is very often the dwelling of their king or war
captain; where sit two men on the ground upon a mat; one with a
rattle, made of a gourd, with some beans in it; the other with a drum
made of an earthen pot, covered with a dressed deer skin, and one
stick in his hand to beat thereon; and so they both begin the song
appointed. At the same time one drums and the other rattles, which is
all the artificial music of their own making I ever saw amongst them.
To these two instruments they sing, which carries no air with it, but
is a sort of unsavory jargon; yet their cadences and raising of their
voices are formed with that equality and exactness that, to us
Europeans, it seems admirable how they should continue these songs
without once missing to agree, each with the others note and tune.
WILLIAM BYRD.
~1674=1744.~
WILLIAM BYRD, second of the name, and the first native Virginian
writer, was born at Westover, his father's estate on the James below
Richmond.
[Illustration: ~Westover, Home of William Byrd.~]
The following inscription on his tomb at Westover gives a sketch of
his life and services well worth preserving:
"Here lies the Honourable William Byrd, Esq., being born to one of the
amplest fortunes in this country, he was sent early to England for
his education, where under the care and direction of Sir Robert
Southwell, and ever favoured with his particular instructions, he made
a happy proficiency in polite and various learning. By the means of
the same noble friend, he was introduced to the acquaintance of many
of the first persons of that age for knowledge, wit, virtue, birth, or
high station, and particularly contracted a most intimate and bosom
friendship with the learned and illustrious Charles Boyle, Earl of
Orrery.
"He was called to the bar in the Middle Temple, studied for some time
in the Low Countries, visited the Court of France, and was chosen
Fellow of the Royal Society. Thus eminently fitted for the service and
ornament of his country, he was made receiver-general of his Majesty's
revenues here, was then appointed public agent to the Court and
Ministry of England, being thirty-seven years a member, at last became
president, of the Council of this Colony.
"To all this were added a great elegancy of taste and life, the
well-bred gentleman, and polite companion, the splendid economist and
prudent father of a family, with the constant enemy of all exorbitant
power, and hearty friend to the liberties of his country. Nat. Mar.
28, 1674. Mort. Aug. 26, 1744. An. aetat. 70."
His daughter Evelyn was famous both in England and Virginia for her
beauty, wit, and accomplishments. She died at the age of thirty,
1737.--See Century Magazine, 1891, Vol. 20, p. 163.
WORKS.
Westover Manuscripts:
(1) History of the Dividing Line [the survey to settle the line
between Virginia and North Carolina, 1728.]
(2) A Journey to the Land of Eden [North Carolina, of which
Charles Eden was governor 1713-19.]
(3) A Progress to the Mines [Iron mines in Virginia which
Ex-Governor Alexander Spotswood and others were beginning
to open and work.]
[Illustration: ~Evelyn Byrd.~
Considered one of the most beautiful women in Virginia, or of her
time.
[FROM AN OLD PAINTING.]]
His writings are among the most interesting that we have, being
remarkable for their wit and culture, a certain poetic vein, a keen
interest in nature, a simple religious faith, a fund of cheerful
courage and good sense, and a fine consideration for others.
SELECTING THE SITE OF RICHMOND AND PETERSBURG, SEPT., 1733.
(_From A Journey to the Land of Eden._)
When we got home, we laid the foundations of two large Citys. One at
Shacco's, to be called Richmond, and the other at the Point of
Appamattuck River, to be nam'd Petersburgh. These Major Mayo offered
to lay out into Lots without Fee or Reward. The Truth of it is, these
two places being the uppermost Landing of James and Appamattux Rivers,
are naturally intended for Marts, where the Traffick of the Outer
Inhabitants must Center. Thus we did not build Castles only, but also
Citys in the Air.
A VISIT TO EX-GOVERNOR SPOTSWOOD, 1732.
(_From A Progress to the Mines._)
Then I came into the Main County Road, that leads from Fredericksburgh
to Germanna, which last place I reacht in Ten Miles more. This famous
Town consists of Colo. Spotswood's enchanted Castle on one Side of the
Street, and a Baker's Dozen of ruinous Tenements on the other, where
so many German Familys had dwelt some Years ago; but are now remov'd
ten Miles higher, in the Fork of Rappahannock, to Land of their Own.
There had also been a Chappel about a Bow-Shot from the Colonel's
house, at the End of an Avenue of Cherry Trees, but some pious people
had lately burnt it down, with intent to get another built nearer to
their own homes.
Here I arriv'd about three o clock, and found only Mrs. Spotswood at
Home, who receiv'd her Old acquaintance with many a gracious Smile. I
was carry'd into a Room elegantly set off with Pier Glasses, the
largest of which came soon after to an odd Misfortune. Amongst other
favourite Animals that cheer'd this Lady's Solitude, a Brace of Tame
Deer ran familiarly about the House, and one of them came to stare at
me as a Stranger. But unluckily Spying his own Figure in the Glass, he
made a spring over the Tea Table that stood under it, and shatter'd
the Glass to pieces, and falling-back upon the Tea Table, made a
terrible Fracas among the China. This Exploit was so sudden, and
accompany'd with such a Noise, that it surpriz'd me, and perfectly
frighten'd Mrs. Spotswood. But twas worth all the Damage to shew the
Moderation and good humour with which she bore this disaster.
In the Evening, the noble Colo. came home from his Mines, who saluted
me very civilly, and Mrs. Spotswood's Sister, Miss Theky, who had been
to meet him _en Cavalier_, was so kind too as to bid me welcome. We
talkt over a Legend of old Storys, supp'd about 9, and then prattl'd
with the Ladys, til twas time for a Travellour to retire. In the mean
time I observ'd my old Friend to be very Uxorious, and exceedingly
fond of his Children. This was so opposite to the Maxims he us'd to
preach up before he was marryed, that I cou'd not forbear rubbing up
the Memory of them. But he gave a very good-natur'd turn to his Change
of Sentiments, by alleging that whoever brings a poor Gentlewoman into
so solitary a place, from all her Friends and acquaintance, wou'd be
ungrateful not to use her and all that belongs to her with all
possible Tenderness.
We all kept Snug in our several apartments till Nine, except Miss
Theky, who was the Housewife of the Family. At that hour we met over a
Pot of Coffee, which was not quite strong enough to give us the Palsy.
After Breakfast the Colo. and I left the Ladys to their Domestick
Affairs, and took a turn in the Garden, which has nothing beautiful
but 3 Terrace Walks that fall in Slopes one below another. I let him
understand, that besides the pleasure of paying him a Visit, I came to
be instructed by so great a Master in the Mystery of Making of Iron,
wherein he had led the way, and was the Tubal Cain of Virginia. He
corrected me a little there, by assuring me he was not only the first
in this Country, but the first in North America, who had erected a
regular Furnace. . . That the 4 Furnaces now at work in Virginia
circulated a great Sum of Money for Provisions and all other
necessarys in the adjacent Countys. That they took off a great Number
of Hands from Planting Tobacco, and employ'd them in Works that
produced a large Sum of Money in England to the persons concern'd,
whereby the Country is so much the Richer. That they are besides a
considerable advantage to Great Britain, because it lessens the
Quantity of Bar Iron imported from Spain, Holland, Sweden, Denmark,
and Muscovy, which us'd to be no less than 20,000 Tuns yearly. . .