General Haupt, who became famous in the late war as a bridge-builder,

attempted to pierce the Hoosac Mountain; but after several years

he abandoned the work, and the whole property of the company was

transferred to the State of Massachusetts. When the state took

possession it began work on its own account, and in 1868 the

legislature appropriated five millions of dollars, and made a contract

with Walter and Francis Shanly, of Canada, for the completion of the

tunnel. They began work in the following March, and there is very

little doubt of their completing the tunnel.

In 1870 I made an excursion up the valley of the Connecticut as far as

Greenfield, and there took the railway train to the Hoosac Mountain.

At the east side or end of the tunnel I abandoned the cars, and took

to a six-horse coach. I managed to obtain a seat near the driver, a

burly, moon-faced fellow, who collected fifty cents extra for the

privilege of riding near him. He treated everybody on the outside as

politely as though he were king of the Cannibal Islands, and we were

his subjects. For downright impudence, with a good deal of rudeness to

the bushel, I will back an American stage-driver against any other man

in the world.

Soon after dinner we drove away from the station, and after the horses

had given us a little circus exhibition on their own account, which

threatened to overturn us and break half a dozen necks, we climbed

slowly up the valley skirting the edge of a forest, whose leaves were

tinged with the varying colors of autumn. Our progress up the eastern

face of the mountain was slow, but when we came down the western side

the case was different. On the upper part of the mountain there is a

long and comparatively level stretch of ground, on which there are

many fine farms, and a general appearance of prosperity. Approaching

the western face of the mountain, we overlooked the flourishing town

of North Adams, and a region of country spread out before us like a

beautiful panorama. I have looked from mountains in many countries,

but rarely have I gazed upon a landscape more beautiful and more

attractive than this. It is not grand—awfully grand—in its character,

like many other landscapes, but there is an air of beauty about it

which makes it charming in the extreme.

The road winds, in a sort of zigzag, down the side of the mountain,

and our horses went at a good speed. The coach swung from side to

side, and the baby of a feminine passenger screamed as if a dozen pins

were being driven an inch or so, into its arms and legs. Down, down,

down the mountain we went, and soon we were inside the busy town, and

were driven up in front of the Wilson House. There I concluded to

remain, and take my point of departure the next day for the tunnel.

On the following morning it was raining, not exactly cats and dogs,

but a drizzly, misty, damp—very damp—sort of rain. I did not care very

much for rain, though, especially as it made no difference, when once

in the tunnel, what the outside weather might be. When breakfast was

over, I started for the tunnel under the escort of the proprietor of

the hotel.

[Sidenote: VISITING THE TUNNEL.]

The western portal of the tunnel is two miles south of the village.

The road leading to it is among some small hills that appear trying

to hug the mountain. Mr. Haupt began his work on this side of the

mountain, in a limestone rock, from which he expected to pass directly

into the solid primary rock, forming the base of the mountain; but to

his surprise and mortification, his hopes were not realized.

[Sidenote: DEMORALIZED ROCK.]

Instead of reaching the solid rock, he entered into a mass that is

known as demoralized rock, a sort of combination of mica, quicksand,

water, and everything else that is disagreeable. It was perfectly

unmanageable. As fast as they dug it out it flowed in. Imagine a

mouse attempting to construct a tunnel through a barrel of swill,

and you can form a very good idea of the difficulty of working in

this rock. You might as well attempt to make a tunnel through a

thousand cart-loads of soft mud; in fact, you could get along easier

in the mud than in this demoralized rock, because you could take

precautions against the flowing in of the mud, which you could not

take against this disintegrated mica. It is a sort of soft stuff which

French miners denominate “moutarde,” and English miners allude to as

“porridge.”

In order to escape this porridge, the engineer tried to make a tunnel

farther up the hill-side; but it was of no use. There was the stuff

again, and somehow it must be met. Not only was it impossible to

prevent its caving in, but it was necessary to prevent its rising

upward. Consequently an arch must be made below, as well as above; in

fact, it was necessary to construct the brick-work in such a way that

it would form, when completed, a perfect cylinder, as the pressure of

the porridge would be exerted in all directions. As the work was put

forward and completed, a casing of timber was made, and inside this

casing of timber the brick arch of the tunnel was built.

[Illustration: EASTERN ENTRANCE.

Illustration: WESTERN ENTRANCE.

THE HOOSAC TUNNEL, MASSACHUSETTS.—LENGTH 24,500 FEET. COST ABOUT

$15,000,000. FIRST TRAIN OF CARS PASSED THROUGH APRIL 5, 1875.]

Our first visit was made to the western portal, into which we

penetrated several hundred feet. For about seven hundred feet, the

tunnel is laid in brick seven or eight courses thick, and forms a

complete arch. Beyond that the rock is quite soft, but sufficiently

hard to sustain itself long enough to permit the construction of an

arch. When this work is completed there will be some two thousand feet

of brick arching.

We thought that in entering this western part of the tunnel, we should

get out of the rain; but we found streams of water occasionally

coming through the brick-work, and especially through the stone at

the heading, where the work of arching was going on. Quite a stream

of water ran through the bottom of the tunnel, and I managed, in the

course of my walk, to get my feet pretty thoroughly soaked. However, I

had been wisely encased in a suit of old clothes, and when I emerged,

there was more mud than clothing visible about me.

Climbing out of the western portal, we took the open road again,

and went to what is known as the western shaft. The work through

the demoralized rock and porridge was so slow that the engineers

determined to sink a shaft farther up the mountain. It is about half a

mile from the portal, and is three hundred and eighteen feet deep.

As soon as the shaft was sunk, the miners turned and worked outwards

through the soft rock, cutting a small passage through to the western

portal, so as to allow the water to drain off, and thus save the use

of the pumps. In the other direction, that is, towards the east, the

miners had found the solid rock of the mountain. At the time of my

visit they were about half a mile from the bottom of the shaft.

[Sidenote: FLOODING A TUNNEL.]

Along our road forming the portal to the shaft, there was a small

stream of water. My guide explained to me that in the great flood a

year before, the water came down, tearing away the embankment which

separated the brook from the tunnel. In a few minutes the embankment

was all torn away, and the whole force of the stream was poured into

the tunnel. An alarm was given as quickly as possible, and by running

rapidly, the men who were working in the tunnel escaped, with the

exception of one who was doing his first day’s work there, and was

probably delayed by his unfamiliarity with the place. In a very short

time the water completely filled the tunnel, and it was some weeks

before the works were restored to their old condition.

Along this brook and around the west shaft there was quite a village

occupied by the miners and their families. The town of North Adams

provided a school-house and a school for the children, of whom nearly

one hundred received instruction there during the week. For a part

of the year the school-house was occupied at different hours, on

Sunday, by two Sunday schools, one conducted by some of the Protestant

churches, while the other is under the care of the Roman Catholics.

Around the shaft were the usual buildings and shops for the repair of

tools, and for the ordinary machinery used about the mine. After a

pleasant talk in the office of the superintendent, I was requested

to dress in an oil-skin suit and a lantern, preparatory to going

below. When all was ready, we went to the shaft, entered a cage, and

descended. From the bottom of the shaft we struck out along the tunnel

to make our way to the heading.

Our guide explained to us that there would be a blast in, about twenty

minutes, and that we must move forward at good speed in order to see

it. “Step right out without fear,” said he; “there is no danger of

falling through, as the bottom is perfectly solid. You need not mind

splashing those boots with water and mud, as they are used to it.”

[Sidenote: WALKING UNDER GROUND.]

I obeyed his directions and followed him, and I did some very rapid

walking. The lanterns gave out just about light enough to make

darkness visible. Away in the distance we could see the lights of the

miners, and hear the noise made by the machinery and the tools of the

workmen. An iron pipe six inches in diameter lay at one side of the

floor, and through this was forced the air which furnished the power

to the drilling machinery, and at the same time ventilated the tunnel.

A channel had been cut in the solid floor to carry off the water which

flowed in from various seams in the rock.

A short distance from the foot of the shaft were the stables,

containing several mules, which were used for hauling the cars. The

mules seemed to look at us with a desponding gaze, as if connecting us

in some way with the outside world, which they would never see again.

“Did these animals,” said I, “come down in the cage where we

descended?”

“Certainly,” said the assistant superintendent. “How else could they

come down? They were sent down in that box, not all together, but only

one at a time.”

I endeavored to ascertain how it was possible to pack a live animal

into that cage without killing him. The assistant said it was easy

enough if you only knew how, and could induce the animal to do as you

wanted him to. “They are good mules,” said he, “and with a strong

rope you can double them up any way, though they do not exactly like

it. If they live two years longer, they will get out alive, otherwise

they will die here. It does not pay to be hoisting live mules out, and

lowering other live mules in. When they get here, they stay till we

are through with them.”

About half way from the shaft to the heading we passed a couple of

surveyors, who were making an alignment of the tunnel, to see that

everything was correct. They had the ordinary instruments used for

levelling purposes in the open air, but it seemed rather odd to find

them using the same instruments by the light of lanterns, and laying

out the track far down in the interior of the mountain. Every foot of

the work of the tunnel had to be laid out with the utmost care, in

order that the ends, when they met, could be made to join perfectly.

[Sidenote: SUGGESTION OF A VISITOR.]

There was a narrow track along the bottom of the tunnel, where cars

drawn by mules, for the removal of the rock to the foot of the shaft,

where it could be hoisted out. My guide told me that a recent visitor

to the tunnel asked, with apparent innocence, why they hoisted out all

that rock, and suggested that it would be much easier to dig a hole in

the bottom of the tunnel, and bury it there; but he did not suggest

what should be done with the rock which they removed to make the hole.

We encountered several of these cars, and at one place were crowded

rather closely against the walls.

Originally gunpowder was used for blasting purposes in the tunnel, but

later in the work nitro-glycerine was adopted.

Several accidents with explosive materials occurred during the

construction of the tunnel, one of the most serious being in 1869.

The magazine where the nitro-glycerine was stored for operations

on the eastern part of the tunnel, was about a quarter of a mile

from the portal. Three of the miners went one morning to prepare

the nitro-glycerine for the day’s use, and an explosion occurred,

killing them all. Two of them were inside the building at the time,

and nothing but a few pieces of them were found; the other, who was

outside the building, was so badly disfigured that it was almost

impossible to identify him, and the force of the explosion was so

great that not a plank or a timber of the building remained.

[Sidenote: THE GREAT EXPLOSION.]

On the 19th of October, 1867, a terrible accident occurred at this

shaft. A depth of nearly six hundred feet had been reached, and

thirteen men were at work below. The gasoline apparatus used for

lighting the works exploded, and set fire to the buildings. The

engineer was badly burned, and driven from his post, and the men

perished by suffocation. The shaft was soon filled with water, but

it was not until next day that the fire was extinguished so that

anybody could descend. A workman named Mallory was lowered, with three

lanterns attached to him. Near the bottom two of his lanterns went

out, and at a signal he was drawn up nearly insensible from breathing

the foul air. He said there were fifteen feet of water in the shaft,

and no signs of the men. It was necessary to erect buildings and

machinery to clear the shaft, and it was not until a year after

that the water was pumped out, and the bodies of the victims were

recovered. They were all in a good state of preservation, but crumbled

to pieces soon after exposure to the air.

[Illustration: WORK AT THE HEADING IN HOOSAC TUNNEL.]

As we neared the heading the noise increased. The shouts of the miners

and the sound of the drilling machines overpowered any ordinary tones

of the voice. The drilling machine was an iron frame, resting upon

trucks, and was pushed as near as possible to the face of the rock.

The drills were fastened to it in such a way that they could be turned

upon any designated point. They were operated by compressed air, and

worked with great rapidity, striking as many as three hundred blows

to the minute. The quality of the rock was generally so hard that

the drills became dull and blunt in a short time, and required to be

sharpened; but they worked much more expeditiously than hand drills.

Under the ordinary process of hand drilling it would take six weeks to

accomplish the distance made in a single week by them.

When the drill-holes had been sunk to the required depth, the machine

was moved back, and some plank doors were closed in front of it to

prevent injury by the flying fragments of rock. Just as we reached

the end of the heading the noise ceased, and the machine was drawn

back, preparatory to blasting. The holes were cleared, and then three

men came forward with the charges of nitro-glycerine in long tin

tubes. These were put in the holes, the wires were fastened in their

places, and then the men moved back; it is hardly necessary to say

that I moved back at the same time, and quite as far as the workmen.

Everything being ready, the signal was given.

“Look out that you are not blown down!” said my guide.

I did look out. There came a sound and a quick explosion, followed

by the rumbling and crashing of the rock, and then a rush of air and

smoke that almost threw me over.

The pressure of the air in the iron pipe for working the drills and

ventilating the tunnel was about six atmospheres, or ninety pounds to

the square inch. As soon as the blast was made, the air was turned

on; the smoke from the blast was driven back, and the miners found

themselves in a clear atmosphere.

After this blast it was intimated that there was nothing more to see,

and we made our way out of the tunnel into the open air again, and

back to the Wilson House.

On December 12th, 1872, the east heading was connected with the one

driven east from the central shaft. The west heading was connected

with the one driven west from the shaft on the 27th of November, 1873.

This proved a splendid engineering feat.

The road bed was finished and the track laid early in 1875, and the

first freight train passed through on the 5th of April of that year.

The first passenger train was run through, July 8th, 1875.

[Sidenote: ACCIDENT AT THE CENTRAL SHAFT.]

Owing to the explosive action of nitro-glycerine the rock was broken

for some distance beyond the limits planned in constructing the sides

and arch of the tunnel, and there was constant danger of pieces of

rock falling upon the track. The plan of arching it with brick was

conceived of, and a contract was made in 1874, to do the arching and

also to enlarge a portion of the tunnel at the eastern terminus. This

work was completed, and the road is now in complete running order.

The cost of the work in the aggregate is nearly $15,000,000. The

construction of the tunnel opens direct communication between Boston

and Troy, and is of inestimable advantage to Massachusetts from a

commercial point of view.

XXXIV.

THE MONT CENIS TUNNEL.

MOUNTAIN CHAINS BETWEEN NATIONS.—MONT CENIS.—CROSSING THE

ALPS.—THE GREAT ALPINE TUNNEL.—LAYING OUT THE WORK.—THE

ARC AND DORA.—DIFFICULTIES.—THE SURVEYS.—PENETRATING THE

MOUNTAIN.—COMPLETION OF THE WORK.—THE CHANNEL TUNNEL.—ITS

COST.—COST OF TUNNELS IN VARIOUS COUNTRIES.

It has been said with truth that “mountains interposed make enemies of

nations.” In various parts of the world we find that mountain chains

stand as barriers between different nations, and in many instances the

boundaries thus formed by nature have remained unchanged for hundreds

of years. On the map of Europe the most prominent mountain chain

is that of the Alps, and it has stood as a separating line between

nations for a long time. It is true that occasionally wars have been

carried beyond these mountain chains, and conquests have been made in

spite of them; but for practical purposes the chain of the Alps has

been for centuries the separating line between France and Austria on

the north, and Italy on the south. Sometimes the French possessions

have extended to the south of the Alps, and sometimes Italy has

extended her possessions to the north of that chain. Such possessions

have never been held for a great length of time, and in one way or

another they have fallen to the nation to whom they belonged by

natural position.

Carriage roads were long since made across the Alps. In later years

the railway has traversed these mountains, but the ascent is tedious

and laborious, so that rapid communication was impossible. It remained

for the science of the present day to overcome the obstacles which the

mountains afforded, not by cutting away the Alps, but by piercing a

passage through them.

More than twenty years ago the attention of the French and Italian

governments was called to the necessity of a tunnel through the

Alps by which France and Italy should be connected. The project was

discussed for some time, and finally a convention was formed between

France and Italy for the purpose of undertaking the work. Four or five

years were consumed in surveys and in the contemplation of plans. All

sorts of objections were made, and a list of these objections forms a

humorous page. One man contended that the heat would be so great in

the centre of the mountain that the men would be roasted alive while

working in the tunnel. Another was positive that the noxious gases

and vapors arising in the tunnel would suffocate everybody. Another

contended that rivers of water would be found in the mountain so great

that they would overwhelm the workmen, and convert the tunnel into an

enormous spring. And so on, one after another, the objections were

heaped up, and there was at one time a prospect that the work would

not be undertaken.

[Sidenote: COMMENCEMENT OF THE WORK.]

The actual work on the tunnel was begun on the Italian side in 1857,

and a little afterwards work on the French side also commenced. A

great deal of labor had been performed in locating the tunnel. A

mountain chain is not a single line of mountains, like a row of potato

hills; but it consists of a central back-bone of mountains, with other

and smaller mountains on either side, so that a chain may often be

a hundred or more miles in width. Now, in piercing a chain like the

Alps, it is necessary to find a way among the outlying hills on each

side through the valleys of the rivers that flow from the central

chain. In this way the open-air railway is brought to the foot of one

of the mountains forming the great central back-bone.

But a difficulty arises in finding two of these valleys directly

opposite each other. You may follow a valley until you get to the very

base of one of the highest mountains of the range, but on looking to

the other side you may find no corresponding valley.

It was this peculiarity of all mountain chains that greatly hindered

the location of the Mont Cenis Tunnel. After much search, the best

location was found to be by following the valley of the River Arc, on

the northern side, and the River Dora, on the southern. A great many

surveys were made, and it was finally discovered that the Arc and

Dora, in their windings, were, at a certain point, less than eight

miles apart. At this point, it was evident, Nature designed—if she had

any design about it—that the great work should be constructed.

[Sidenote: VISITING THE MONT CENIS TUNNEL.]

In 1867, while travelling north from Italy to France, I determined

to pay a visit to the Mont Cenis Tunnel. It was said to be quite

difficult to obtain a permit to enter the workings; but perseverance

and letters of introduction will accomplish a great deal, and after a

little delay I obtained what I asked for. I found it more convenient

to visit the northern end of the tunnel for the reason that on the

Italian side the workings were sixteen miles away from the regular

line of travel, while those on the northern side were directly on the

route of tourists.

A railway over Mont Cenis was then under construction, and nearly

completed; but as it was not open for travelling, I made the transit

in a carriage, just as many thousands of people had made it before me.

The railway over the Alps is of itself a curiosity. In some places the

ascent equals one foot in ten, so that great power was required for

the locomotives to enable them to drag their burdens upward. The track

was narrow, and it was peculiar in having three rails instead of two.

The wheels of the carriages run on two rails only, just like wheels of

carriages on other railways. The central rail was intended for the use

of the locomotives, to assist their power of traction. The wheels were

arranged on these locomotives in such a way as to grip the central

rail with tremendous force, and the brakes were also so arranged that

by pressing this central rail they could bring the carriages to a

sudden stop in case of accident.

The line of the railway over Mont Cenis follows very nearly the

carriage road, and occasionally crosses it. In some places it passes

through short tunnels, and in others it is roofed in to avoid injury

by snow. In crossing the mountain by this railway very little time

is saved over the ordinary carriage route, while the latter is very

much to be preferred on account of its comfort and the advantage it

gives for observing the scenery. We were a party of four, and after

an unhappy night in a dirty hotel at Susa, an old town founded by the

Romans, and containing some ruins dating from the time of the Romans,

we started on our journey.

[Sidenote: A ROW WITH A LANDLORD.]

Our night had been unhappy. Our breakfast was still more unhappy, and

our bill for what the landlord facetiously termed our “entertainment”

was the worst feature of all. The discomfiture of his establishment

was greater than the comfort of the best hotel in Paris, and he

charged us about twice the rate that any Parisian landlord would dare

to ask. We consoled ourselves and settled our breakfast by getting up

a magnificent row with him, threatening to break his head, and talked

at least fifteen minutes in mingled _patois_ of English, French,

Italian, Russian, and Chinese. We did not succeed in having our bill

reduced, but I am confident if what we said to that landlord remained

ringing in his ears for twenty-four hours, it must have driven him to

hopeless insanity.

We wound slowly up the mountain, with the top of our carriage thrown

back, so that we could enjoy the view.

The Mont Cenis Pass is the least interesting of all the great passes

of the Alps. Tourists complain of its tameness, but there are points

where it is picturesque.

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