TEA AND MR. BENNETT

I knew that my friend Mr. Arnold Bennett was a handy man. It is his

foible to do many things, and he does most of them surprisingly well.

The villagers in the poem were left wondering how the schoolmaster's

small head "could carry all he knew"; and I have myself often idly

wondered how Mr. Bennett has managed to become an expert in so many

arts and crafts in the intervals of pouring out a stream of books and

plays that would alone seem the abundant occupation of all his waking

hours. I suppose the explanation is, first, that he has in an

unusual degree an industrious habit under iron discipline and an

orderly mind that parcels out its minutes as a miser parcels out his

gold; and, second, that he has a devouring curiosity about life.

He is a taster of life. He goes about like a country boy at a fair,

taking a shy at every Aunt Sally, a ride on every roundabout, a shot

at every shooting-range. The bearded woman delights him, and Punch

and Judy hold him as the glittering eye of the ancient mariner held

the wedding guest. He never grows tired of the show. He keeps into

middle age the juvenile wonder which most of us lose when we lose our

youth--hence the unfailing freshness of his mind. He is always

interesting, because he is always interested. I would trust him to

get along on a desert island as comfortably as any living man. He

would write his own books, pen his own criticisms, paint his own

pictures, make his own music, sail his own boat, take his own physic,

run his own farm, engross his own conveyance, drive his own car, cook

his own dinner--probably cut his own hair. For he can explain to you

why the barbers of Italy are superior to the barbers of France and

wherein the Dutch barber fails to touch the highest pinnacle of his

calling. And all these things he would do, not clumsily or

grudgingly as one driven into a corner by cruel circumstance, but

joyfully, as a boy on a picnic. He would rejoice that at last he

could do things as they should be done, instead of having them done

for him by others in ways in which they should not be done.

For example, he would be able to have a cup of tea worth drinking. I

did not know, but I am not surprised to learn, that he is an artist

with the tea-pot. "I would undertake," he has just told the world,

"to make better tea than nineteen-twentieths of the housewives of

this country." If it were anybody else, we should say this was

conceit; but Mr. Bennett without this note of childlike

self-assurance would not be the Mr. Bennett we love. We should not

know him. We should think he was just an ordinary man like the rest

of us, and pass him by in the crowd. Moreover, when he tells us that

he is a master craftsman with the tea-pot, I have no doubt he is

speaking the truth. He will, I am sure, have studied this great

subject as profoundly as he has studied the technique of play-writing.

And I daresay he would agree that it is at least as well worth

studying as play-writing. Plays are only a very occasional affair in

our life, but tea flows on for ever. At this moment I hear the

pleasant clatter of the tea-things in the next room, and I suppose

there is hardly a house in the land where the kettle is not boiling

and the cups are not tinkling. When I went to see my lawyer

yesterday afternoon he rang for "another cup," and if I go to see my

publisher to-morrow afternoon he will ring for "another cup," too.

Next to the Russians, we are, I suppose, the greatest tea-topers in

the world. Tea-drinking has ceased to be merely a custom and has

become a ritual as well. It is what the pipe of reconciliation is to

the Indian or the eating of salt is to the Mussulman.

Yet though every day we drink enough tea to float the British Navy,

it is probably true, as Mr. Bennett suggests, that few of us know how

to make it. I do not pretend to be one of the few. But I delight in

the rare occasions on which I get the real article, and in a casual

way, quite different I am sure from Mr. Bennett's orderly

experiments, I have picked up the rudiments of a system from those

whose brews have pleased me. Thus from one great artist of the

tea-pot, a fine old gentleman with a long white beard, who used to

sit and watch the kettle boiling as anxiously as the doctor feels the

pulse of his patient, I learned that the water should be poured on

the tea the moment it comes to the boil. From another, a learned

scientist, I gathered that boiling water (from another kettle, I

fancy) should be poured in the pot before the tea is put in. A

bachelor acquaintance of mine, on whom I called one afternoon,

indoctrinated me with the idea of washing the tea with a rapid drench

of boiling water drawn off instantly before pouring in the water

intended for the brew. From another friend (this time a lady) I

picked up the fact that the way to weaken your tea is not to pour

more water into the tea-pot, but to dilute the beverage in the cup.

A small matter you say; but the art of making tea is composed of

these small delicacies. What, for example, could seem a matter of

more indifference than that of the order in which you pour the milk

and the tea in the cup? Yet it is a capital point. Put the tea in

first, and the virtue seems to have gone out of the cup; put the milk

in first, and the subtle law of the art is observed. And the

proportion of milk must be exact; you cannot add to it afterwards and

get the same effect.

I pass by such fundamental points as the selection of the right tea

for the water and the duty of pouring off the tea quickly so as to

catch the first fine rapture of the leaf. But I hope I have said

enough to set tongues wagging on this fruitful subject, and enough to

win the respect (perhaps even the envy) of Mr. Arnold Bennett. I

don't mind confessing that that is the reason I am writing this

article. I am weary of the omniscience of Mr. Bennett. I am

humiliated by the sense of the number of things I don't know or can't

do when I am in his presence or read his books. If I did not love

him I should hate him. I should write to the papers to denounce him

as a charlatan. I should guy his pictures and scoff at his books and

make fun of his criticisms about this, that and the other and quote

slighting things about Jacks-of-all-trades and generally make myself

unpleasant. But since I love him I content myself with saying firmly

and even defiantly, that I have ideas on the art and science of

tea-making, too. True, I have never made it, but I could make it at

a pinch.

Many furrows · 第 25 / 68 题