"MRS. GEO. P."--The appearance of the gum probably was the result of

injury from a hard substance, an ivory or wooden plaything, possibly.

Some children do not get any teeth before they are a year old, though

six months is usually looked upon as the commencement of dentition. In

selecting a baby's toys, it is necessary to see that they are not hard

enough to hurt the mouth, or rough, so as to scratch and inflame it, as a

child naturally tries to bite everything it can lay hands on. Common cheap

toys are objectionable, as the paint comes off on the mouth and face. A

plain ring of bone or ivory, tied by a broad string of tape or ribbon to a

child's waist, will amuse it for hours, and is perfectly safe. Knit dolls

are excellent, and the old style "rag baby" is worth a dozen of wax or

composition. If a child has a plaything that will be likely to scratch its

mouth or put out its eyes, it should be held by the nurse or mother, and

never trusted to its powerless little hands.

"THE READING CIRCLE OF E., PA.," will find "Markland," by the author of

"Margaret Maitland," and the "Memoir of Mrs. Ware," added to their list.

We think the plan an excellent one; and, as the books are to be taken in

turn when read through, do not see how any ill feeling can grow out of it.

We should advise them to take "Household Words," if they can afford but

one English magazine.

"MRS. S."--Flannel will not answer the purpose. A half handkerchief of

oiled silk, bound with ribbon or flannel binding. Nursery aprons of

gingham or chintz, with an oil-silk lining, are much used.

"A. L. S."--For grafting, we have seen the following highly recommended in

a paper read before a State agricultural society: Two-thirds resin to one

of common beeswax. It will not melt or run.

"A YOUNG AUTHOR" has need of "good courage." In presenting his MSS. to a

publisher, send it by express or post, _prepaid_, with a plain, sensible

letter on the subject of the book, and leave it to him or his editor

to praise it. Never say "that a partial friend, or friends, advise its

publication." If you wish it done, you need offer no excuse; if not, keep

it to yourself. Do not expect to make a fortune on your first venture. If

you can have it printed free of expense, it is all you ought reasonably to

expect. Many are glad to do this. Remember that poems rarely pay for print

and binding at the present time, and no young writer can be a finished and

original essayist. The essay, above all other forms of composition, needs

purity of style, original thought, acute observation, and wide experience.

"MRS. K.," of White Plains.--We would recommend "Kane's Arctic

Expedition," and "St. Herndon's Valley of the Amazon;" they are the most

popular recent books of travel, and suitable for family reading.

"ALICE" will find we have attended to her request. Cambric sets are still

fashionable.

Fashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery,

etc., by ladies living at a distance, _the Editress of the Fashion

Department_ will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it,

with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required.

Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets, dresses, jewelry, bridal

cards, cake-boxes, envelopes, etc. etc., will be chosen with a view to

economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to

any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

_Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be

addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for

the amount, and the early execution of commissions._

_No order will be attended to unless the money is first received._

Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note

of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which

_much depends_ in choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's; cloaks,

mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets

from Miss Wharton's; jewelry from Bailey's or Warden's, Philadelphia, or

Tiffany's, New York, if requested.

DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS FOR JUNE.

_Fig. 1st._--Walking-dress of green taffeta, a skirt and basque. The

skirt is made on a band, very full, long, and plain. The basque is close,

and much sloped at the hip. It will be noticed that it is very long,

approaching the size of the velvet street basques worn last summer.

Sleeves demi-long, and flowing, finished with three ruffles, pinked. Large

collar of cambric embroidery. Bonnet of drawn taffeta, the same shade as

the dress, a light plume at the right. A simple full cap of blonde inside

the brim. Rich scarf, oriental style.

_Fig. 2d._--A graceful and serviceable riding-dress, one of the best

styles we have had for several seasons, being at once suited to the road

and becoming to the figure. The skirt is on a band, or under waist, the

ordinary fulness and length. The jacket, with its coat sleeves and rolling

collar, fits the figure easily, and rounds over the hips into a short

basque. A buff chemisette, in the fashion of a close vest, finished by

upright linen collar and small flat necktie. Beaver hat and plume, the

crown rather higher than has been worn of late. The material may be either

habit cloth, cashmere, or merino. Habit cloth, being heavier, seems more

serviceable for the road, and keeps in place better.

CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS FOR JUNE.

This is the favorite month in the year for the display of light and airy

styles in our Atlantic cities, the few who have gone to their country

houses in advance of the season being replaced by the arrival of Southern

and Western belles, refitting at Stewart's, Levy's, Lawson's, Miss

Wharton's, and every other fashionable establishment, for the summer

campaign at Saratoga and Newport. Every resident has her favorite spring

walking-dress, in which to pay her last round of calls, when she leaves

her P. P. C., and is "not at home," until autumn comes again, to her dear

five hundred friends.

These street dresses are mostly silks, varying from the rich dark poplins

and _moir antique_ to the lighter _glacé_ stripes and plaids, or the India

foulards, with their close glossy folds. The heavier silks are usually

entirely plain in the skirt; even _poult de soie_, the heavy plain-colored

silk that comes next to a poplin in richness of effect, has usually only

a deep hem at the bottom of the skirt. The basques and sleeves have all

the novelties of style and decoration. For these there are new galloons

and ribbons appearing daily, matching the silks in shade, or used as a

contrast, as taste may dictate. Velvet uncut, plain, and embossed; _moir

antique_, richly watered; brocaded and embroidered ribbons, varying from

one to three inches in width, are used for these heavier stuffs, which are

now nearly out of season.

The lighter silks are in stripes and plaids of infinite variety. Green

and violet seem to be the favorite shades. These are made with flounces,

usually three, nearly the same width, the top one measuring the same from

the top of the skirt. Fringe in alternate stripes, to correspond with

the silk, is used where much trimming is desired on the edge of these

flounces, or they may be simply bound or pinked. Pinking is used more

than of late, and, in every establishment where it is done, there are a

great variety of patterns, many of them elaborate. We have seen a very

tasteful walking-dress, of violet and white plaid--a "quadrilled" silk,

the manufacturer calls it--made with three flounces as above, the basque

trimmed with fringe (alternate white and violet, instead of being mixed,

as was the style) three inches deep. This was, in turn, headed by violet

satin ribbon an inch wide, box-plaited on, and continuing around the front

of the corsage. The sleeves were flowing, with three rows of fringe much

narrower, but exactly corresponding, also headed by the plaiting, and

fastened on the inside by a knot of rich brocaded ribbon with flowing

ends. This, of course, had an exceedingly elegant effect, and could only

be worn by a tall, full figure. We describe it to show how elaborate and

costly the trimming of dresses are made the present season, while the

materials, silks, tissues, _barèges_, etc., remain much the same as

the past year. Box-plaited ribbons, whether plain, pearl-edged satin,

brocaded, or plaided, are much used. It is usual to allow twice and a half

the desired length of the trimming in purchasing them. Bows of broader

and more expensive ribbon are still used for the sleeves and front of the

corsage.

For thin materials, as _barège_, tissues, etc., in all the fanciful names

by which they are called, most of which are manufactured by the importers'

clerks, there is every variety of trimming in the shape of gauze ribbons.

They have usually a coarse thread in the plain edge, by which they can be

drawn up into quillings, ruches, and even box-plaitings. So many yards are

used in a full trimming, and it is so expensive, never less, and usually

more than a quarter of a dollar a yard, that the trimming and making often

cost as much, and even more than the original material.

No city dressmaker, with any pretence to a good style, will undertake to

make a dress for less than three dollars. In the really fashionable shops,

$4 75 is the charge for making a basque waist, apart from the skirt--silk,

buttons, all trimmings charged separately in the bill; so that you have

from seven to nine, and even fifteen dollars, to add to the cost of your

two yards and a half of silk, the quantity usually purchased for a basque.

We have seen no more tasteful bonnets at any establishment than at Genin's

bazaar, which, as most of our readers know, has been elegantly fitted up,

and so arranged as to be nearly double the original size, thus leaving

plenty of room for a large millinery and dressmaking establishment,

carrying out more fully the first design of Mr. Genin. The workwomen have

two large and cheerful apartments assigned to them, and the show-room

adjoining is always thronged. The nursery department has been removed

to this more spacious suite, and the space below the dome is now filled

by rows of industrious workers, with the silks and muslins they are

manufacturing for the juveniles expressly.

Leghorn bonnets are still worn, though in July and August more dress hats

of silk, crape, and lace will be seen. The Leghorns are in unusually good

shapes, and trimmed very simply, either with straw, marabout plumes, or

plain white ribbons. We speak of the prevailing styles; of course, many

tastes are to be suited, and some people would flounce a _moir antique_

with the same, if they thought it would look more expensive, and for this

class of community ribbons and garlands cannot be too profuse even on a

Leghorn, which, if handsome, is generally considered, like a rich silk,

to "have no need of ornament." There is a profusion of plain straws of

every shape and cost. We notice that they come close, or nearly so, under

the chin, and the whole bonnet is a gradual slope from the brim to the

crown. They are trimmed in every variety of style, ruches of narrow ribbon

box-plaited on, numerous flat bows of ribbon an inch in width disposed as

a wreath, etc. etc. Ribbons, as a general thing, are much narrower than

the past season, and those long scarf-like strings are not considered in

good taste. We have before spoken of the profusion of trimming inside the

brim. Blonde caps--a narrow edge of blonde usually sewn upon a broad or

wash-blonde lace--are usually almost invariably used to soften the effect

of the flowers and ribbon bows that encircle the face. The flowers used

are of the most delicate description, made of crape, in strict imitation

of nature. Flag flowers, convolvulus, lilac sprays, field violets, and all

the more delicate blossoms, are exquisitely reproduced.

FASHION.

[Illustration: Godey's Latest Fashions.]

* * * * *

+-------------------------------------------------+

| TRANSCRIBER NOTES: |

| |

| P. 486. 'Novado' changed to 'Novada'. |

| P. 501. 'toffe' changed to 'toffee' |

| P. 506. 'com' changed to 'come'. |

| P. 507. 'mocassin' changed to 'moccasin'. |

| P. 561. 'nna' changed to 'Anna'. |

| Fixed various punctuation. |

+-------------------------------------------------+

Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 48, June, 1854 · 第 16 / 16 段