itself, buttoning to the waistband of the trousers, Fig. 2, which are
full, and rather long. The over-jacket may be made of Cashmere or any
suitable material, and is intended for the street. The peculiar style of
the sleeves and the square opening of the front display the fine linen
bosom and sleeves.
FASHIONABLE BONNETS AND CAPS.
_From the celebrated Establishment of Thomas White & Co., No. 41 South
Second St., Philada._
[Illustration: No. 1.]
[Illustration: No. 2.]
[Illustration: No. 3.]
[Illustration: No. 4.]
No. 1. BOY'S HAT.—Material of Coburg straw.
No. 2. BONNET TIP.
No. 3. BONNET CROWN.
No. 4. WIRE BONNET FRAME.
* * * * *
_Description of Cuts on page 481._
No. 1. INFANT'S TURBAN.
_Material._—Embroidered French blonde and gimp.
_Trimming._—Bunches of white ribbons at the sides, with quilling of
blonde around the face.
No. 2. BOY'S JOCKEY CAPS.
A. _Material._—Straw brilliant, edged and trimmed around the front with
Paris gimp.
B. _Material._—Brilliant straw, inserted with Paris gimp. Front edged
with gimp.
No. 3. SUMMER BONNET.
_Material._—Blonde lace, with quilling of ribbon. Crown of silk, with
lace fall to hang over the cape.
_Trimming._—Bouquets of wild flowers.
No. 4. ITALIAN LEGHORN.—Untrimmed.
CHINESE SAYINGS.
SOME of the ordinary expressions of the Chinese are sarcastic enough. A
blustering harmless fellow they call "a paper tiger." When a man values
himself overmuch, they compare him to a "rat falling into a scale, and
weighing itself." Overdoing a thing they call "a hunchback making a bow."
A spendthrift they compare to a rocket which goes off at once. Those who
expend their charity on remote objects, but neglect their family, are said
"to hang their lantern on a pole, which is seen afar, but gives no light
below."
BRAID FOR CHILD'S DRESS.
[Illustration]
WHY DON'T LADIES LEARN TO COOK?
AMONG the common things to the teaching of which public attention is now
so strongly directed, it is to be hoped that the art of cookery—one
of the commonest, and yet, apparently, one of the most difficult and
neglected of all—will not be forgotten. The instruction of the female
peasantry in this useful art would be as advantageous to themselves when
settled on their own hearths as to the families of the middle classes,
in which, before marriage, they officiate as domestic servants. On all
sides we hear complaints of the difficulty of finding, and of retaining
when found, a cook who can roast a leg of mutton, and make batter-pudding
or pea-soup. In point of fact, we have heard of ladies who have it in
serious contemplation to dispense with servants altogether, as the least
troublesome alternative. Without wishing matters carried quite so far, we
are convinced that many of our fair friends would lose nothing, either
in point of respectability or happiness, while they could add at least
one-third to the effective incomes of their husbands, if they were to
spend a little more time in their kitchens, superintending the preparation
of the family dinner, instead of contenting themselves with ordering
it—if, indeed, they condescend to do even that. Some forty years back,
ladies were driven to shoemaking as a fashionable way of killing time.
Why not try a little cooking? Thanks to the modern stoves, with their
nicely-arranged skillets and stewpans, which science and mechanical skill
have substituted for the blazing kitchen hearth of other days, young
ladies of the nineteenth century, just passing its prime, may cook without
soiling their fingers or injuring their complexions. Were it not so, we
would not recommend them to cook. We would rather live on bread and cheese
all the days of our lives.
It will be said, perhaps, that our notions with regard to female education
and employment are too antiquated—that in these matters, as in everything
else, a new era has dawned, and the solid course of instruction now given
in colleges for ladies will be triumphantly appealed to. Ladies, however,
who possess these solid acquirements—who, like Lady Jane Grey, prefer
Plato to a picnic—will be least likely to neglect the economy of the
kitchen. They will thoroughly understand the dignity of the employment,
and call to mind all the poetry of cooking. To say nothing of the dinner
which Milton describes Eve as preparing when "on hospitable thoughts
intent," there are the Homeric banquets at which kings literally "killed
their own meat," and at which queens and princesses turned the spit for
the roasting, or drew the water and chopped wood for the boiling. Cooking
is classical, and no lady will disdain to take part in it who has read
of these feasts in the original Greek. Let it be observed that it is the
middle and working classes on whom we wish to urge the importance of the
study. A gentleman's daughter can afford to be so ignorant of common
things as not to be able to recognize chickens in a poultry-yard, because
they do not run about with a liver under one wing and a gizzard under
the other, though our modern poultry shows, it must be confessed, will
tend much to dissipate this error. A knowledge, however, of the art of
cooking is of more importance to the wives of the laboring population
than to those of the middle classes, because it is the art, when properly
cultivated, of making a little go a great way.—_Mark-lane Express._
A LACE BASQUE.
_Furnished from Madame Demorest's Emporium of Fashions, 375 Broadway,
New York._
THIS novel and graceful design is adapted for black lace or any other
thin material that fancy may dictate, as will be seen by reference to the
engraving. It is gathered in a graceful fulness to a band of insertion
across the back, and also to a similar band fitting closely to the form at
the waist, and falls in a rich double flounce over the person. The corsage
is made high in the neck, gathered into a band same as the back. The style
of sleeve (which is so clearly illustrated by the artist as not to need
any further description) harmonizes most beautifully with the general
design.
[Illustration: VOIGT _Del_]
TRUTH.
BY D. HARDY, JR.
AS stands the old oak when the tempest is raging,
While others less firm are upturned by the blast,
So Truth, though with Error a warfare is waging,
Is firm and unyielding, triumphant at last.
She stands as unmoved as the bold promontory,
Tow'ring so proud by the waves of the sea;
Her heart-gushing song and her soul-cheering story
Should bless and make glad every land that may be
Truth, mighty and noble, down came from the Maker,
The Sovereign Ruler of earth and of sky;
Then cling to her fondly and never forsake her,
Till death shall have closed thy now beaming eye;
Truth is so mighty, Superstition and Error,
All powerless and weak, must fall by her side;
Then, friends of the Right, do not falter in terror,
But nobly press onward with Truth for your guide.
LADY'S RIDING BOOTS.
[Illustration]
WE are at pains to present our friends with every _recherché_ article that
can contribute to their welfare; for this purpose, we illustrate a pair of
riding boots for ladies, which, in addition to their ostensible purpose,
are admirable for damp or muddy walking, especially in locations where
vegetation renders protection desirable. These boots will effectually
prevent the moisture that is brushed off from proving detrimental. They
are made of patent leather, of a rich, lustrous black hue, the upper
portion of fancy colored morocco, purple, maroon, green, or bronze, and
bordered with silk galloon, finished with neat tassels. Excepting in
their elegant proportions and ornamental appearance, they are essentially
similar to the dress boots of the sterner sex; and we are gratified to
observe this move in the right direction. This fashion is in accordance
with sound sense and comfort.
For the original of these beautiful and commendable articles, we are
indebted to Mr. E. A. Brooks, Boot and Shoe Emporium, 575 Broadway, New
York, from whose large and varied collection we propose affording frequent
illustrations, that our fair readers may be fully _au fait_ in this
important department of their costume.
COTTAGE FURNITURE.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
Fig. 1 represents two tables formed to fasten together underneath.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
Fig. 2 is a Pembroke table with the leaves raised.
LADY'S SLIPPER ON CLOTH.—SMYRNA EMBROIDERY.
[Illustration: LADY'S SLIPPER ON CLOTH.—REDUCED DESIGN.]
_Materials._—Any dark-colored cloth, black or dark claret is the
best. Silk or terry velvet of a color contrasting well with that of
the cloth. Purse twist, first size, either gold color or the color
of the velvet, but one shade or two lighter.
Draw your pattern on the cloth first; then on the wrong side of the
velvet; cut out the velvet carefully, and gum well the wrong side of the
velvet. When cut out, apply on the cloth, press it down gently, and let it
dry; when perfectly dry, work the outlines in chain stitch with the purse
twist.
If you can manage the tambour needle, the chain stitch would be better
done in tambour work, also quicker and more easily.
This design, embroidered with black silk on scarlet or blue merino, will
also make an extremely pretty baby's shoe.
[Illustration: THE LEAF OF THE SLIPPER IN ITS PROPER SIZE.]
[Illustration: PART OF AN EMBROIDERED COLLAR.]
BREAD-CLOTH.
[Illustration]
_Materials._—Five reels crochet cotton, No. 24, with crochet-hook,
No. 18.
MAKE a chain of 160 stitches, and work on it one row in dc.
_2d row._—Begin with 1 chain, and work 2 dc in each of the first two dc
of last row. One dc in each of the others, except the last two, in both of
which work 2, and end with a chain stitch.
The remainder is to be worked from the design, in ordinary square crochet;
but, as there is first an increase of a square at each end, and afterwards
a decrease to the same extent in every row, the space in the centre only
being without either increase or diminution, we shall describe the way in
which the decrease is so effected as to leave a regular edge; the increase
being always done as we have described in the 2d row. There are two close
squares at each end.
FOR THE DECREASE.—Slip on the first stitch, sc on the next, sdc on the
next, dc on the fourth, do three more dc, 2 ch, which form the first open
square in the line. At the other extremity reverse the process, working on
the last four stitches, 1 dc, 1 sdc, 1 sc, 1 slip.
In all the succeeding rows that are decreased, make the slip stitch on the
first dc stitch of the previous row, at each end, thus shortening every
row by three stitches.
The edge being of two close squares, allows for all the ends being worked
in, which should invariably be done.
Work one row of open square crochet all round, with the dc stitches
sufficiently close at the corners to set flat, and in every square knot a
fringe of twelve or sixteen strands, and 2 inches deep.
EMBROIDERY.—DRESS COLLAR.
(_See Colored Plate in front of Book._)
_Materials._—Embroidery cotton, No. 100.
Trace the pattern upon the muslin with a quill pen and blue mixed with
gum-water; make the leaves, stems, and flowers in raised satin-stitch; the
circles in buttonhole-stitch, either making them close or open, as may be
preferred; if close, a raised spot must be worked in the centre of each.
Work the edge in buttonhole-stitch.
PATTERNS FOR EMBROIDERY.
[Illustration]
EDITORS' TABLE.
"Man to man so oft unjust,
Is always so to woman."--BYRON.
SUCH is the testimony of a poet, and history, we are sorry to say, would
prove his assertion true. Yet a "better time" is coming, has already
begun, and, in our country, seems making progress quite as rapidly as
women are prepared to receive and adjust themselves to the new and
enlarged duties which are opening before them. Education is the grand
lever to elevate society. When both sexes are allowed equal privileges
of instruction, the advancement of the race will be accelerated in more
than twofold proportion, because the ignorance of one-half the species
serves to hinder greatly the influences of intelligence in the enlightened
portion. A small cloud can dim the sun.
Some important questions respecting female education are yet unsettled;
one of these concerns the prerogative of their colleges. Are these
institutions, when chartered by legislative authority, to hold equal rank
with male colleges? When _degrees_ are conferred on the female student,
shall she have an equal right to the honors these are supposed to confer,
as are claimed for her brother graduate? Not long since, a lady was
complimented by the Faculty of one of the most eminent Female Colleges
in our country with "the Honorary degree of Mistress of Arts." While
acknowledging the compliment, the lady wrote--
"Allow me to inquire if, in thus conferring degrees on women, you
contemplate the assumption of the style similar honors confer on men?
Would you be pleased to see that I added the M. A. to my name? Now, this
is an important question, and will, as I think, have much influence on
the future aspect of female education. If colleges for women are invested
with full power of conferring degrees, and do confer them, why should not
the same rules be applied to these as are considered proper in regard to
colleges for your sex?
"If to append the _sign_ of his degree to his name be for a man an
advantage, showing his acquirements have been acknowledged and guaranteed
by the competent authority, why is not a similar course beneficial, under
like circumstances, for a woman?" &c.
The faculty of the college made reply by the president to the effect
that they did confer the _degree_ in good faith, considering it "one and
the same held by the faculty," and that the lady had an equal right with
themselves to assume the A. M. We were intending to invite attention to
this subject, gathering thus the results of discussion, when the following
article reached us, and we give it here to invite others to write on this
question:--
"TO THE EDITOR OF THE 'LADY'S BOOK:' Knowing that you have very much at
heart the advancement of learning and the spread of useful knowledge, and
that you do not think woman's share an unproductive one, or her powers
below culture, I venture to ask why most of the stimulants to generous
ambition are neglected in her case? Is it because men consider her nature
too elevated to require the adventitious helps they throw out to each
other? It cannot be that they fear on equal ground some odious comparisons
might be obvious.
"Milton says--
'Fame is the spur that the clear spirit does raise
To scorn delights and live laborious days.'
So sensible have mankind ever been of this, that, in all ages, incentives
have been offered to the ingenious and distinguished, by titles, honors,
and decorations distributed to excellence. To excellence in _men_; for
_women_, however industrious their researches, however 'laborious'
their 'days,' have little to expect but a limited fame, and the inward
consciousness of high motives. Why should this be? Why might not woman
have the satisfaction of feeling that her deservings may entitle her to
the marks of approbation of the learned in her own sphere, and that her
name may acquire a general respectability from honors worthily borne?
In other words, why may not honorary degrees be granted by literary and
scientific institutions to _all_ persons who merit them? And why may not
women publicly bear such testimonials, by appending to their names the
same titles borne by men under similar circumstances? I know that there
is a large, worthy, and respectable class of men who, as some shrink in
undefinable horror from the sight of a cat, feel nervous shudderings and
morbid vexation at the word _strength of mind_ as applied to woman. To the
_word_; for I have, in _essentials_, found many of these nervous gentlemen
happy to avail themselves of the objectionable quality when it was taken
by them in a disguised way. These might, at the first blush of the thing,
begin to wince at a lady being styled A. M., F. R. S., _cum ceteris_.
But, if they will, if they _can_ consider the subject coolly, they will
see that there is nothing unfeminine, nothing the finest womanly delicacy
need fear in the matter. Would the names of Maria Edgeworth or Hannah
More have been published with less propriety, had they been supported
by initials signifying that certain judges of literature approved their
efforts and sanctioned their pretensions? For my part, I think it seems
altogether more befitting a woman's weakness to be ushered into public by
the stamp of masculine authority. I think even a _weak-minded_ woman could
not disparage her charms by seeking in a signature the protection of her
superiors.
"Far be it from me, speaking in modern cant, to draw woman out of her
sphere. I would have every one do her 'duty in that sphere of life in
which it has pleased God to call her.' Let man rule in the court, the
camp; let him make laws and enforce them; let him plough the main; let him
defend his country; while woman soothes the bed of sickness and instructs
her children. Let her studies and her efforts be to alleviate pain, to
increase mental development, and, above all, by precept and example, to
watch over morals and religion. These things she may do; these things she
daily does; but, though more patient, and more spiritual than her brother
_man_, she is not an angel. She needs encouragement, praise, and rewards
to cheer her course. Why, then, deny her the harmless gratifications that
are her due, that she has won and should wear?"
* * * * *
WHAT SHALL BE DONE FOR THE INSANE?--The Report for 1853 of the Trustees
of the Hospital for the Insane, in the State of Maine, contains a remark
equal to a conclusive reason in favor of hereafter building every new
insane hospital for one sex only--a recommendation lately submitted to the
public by Medical Superintendents.
The Maine Trustees say, "It is very important the public should have every
possible assurance that patients of one sex should not know, except by
report, that there are those of the other sex in the hospital." This
testimony, so official and experienced, is full of meaning, and it will be
used by many voices in a wise way to effect a reform.
Pecuniary economy alone has led, in most places, to the present method of
combining insane men and women in the same building. One building of a
determined size, it has been argued, can be more cheaply supported than
two, having together a capacity to accommodate the same number of patients
as the larger one. But, whenever in any population a new hospital must
be erected for increasing numbers, it will not be attended with an extra
expense in supporting it, to appropriate it to one sex, and to remove into
it the patients of this sex from the prior institution.
New ones ordered by a Legislature with an intention to devote each to
one sex, can, from their foundations, be so arranged as to secure the
attaining of many special advantages relating to social parlors, amusement
saloons, reading-rooms, work-rooms, private rooms for interviews between
patients and their near relations, bath-rooms, &c.
The proper locations of the noisy, of the homicidal, and of the dreadfully
impulsive in various ways, so as to prevent them from injuriously
disturbing others, is a serious problem of difficult solution in most
hospitals now in operation. At present, all of the same sex are in the
same wing; and therefore the timid are sometimes much distressed or
excited by the furious we have alluded to. The difficulty of solving the
problem will be almost removed in a hospital for one sex, by placing the
furious at the far end of one wing, and those who would be hurtfully
disturbed by them in the other wing; thereby separating them through the
intervention of the centre building.
The proposed reform will enlarge the liberty and the privileges of
patients, both within the buildings, and outside of them in walks, courts,
or gardens. Females will be exempt from a risk, to which they are now
subject in the best-conducted institutions, of being observed by male
patients and their attendants through windows overlooking the grounds.
Now, excited patients must often be secluded in rooms, or limited to small
courts for air and exercise, to keep them from being seen by the other
sex; whereas these very patients may more than others need daily walks
with their attendants as the surest means of soothing their fury.
Whenever the whole of one wing of a hospital is constructed and organized
for convalescent and timid patients, they can and will be allowed, with
scarcely any inconvenience to the internal government, more frequent and
longer visits from sane and sensible conversers, than are now allowable.
They will then have the benefit of what is much needed, a greater variety
of sane companionship and its healthful influences, than the household,
together with the ordinary restricted visiting, can ever possibly supply.
When these influences are of a wise quality, they are mental medicines of
heavenly value to the many who need them and ought to have them.
* * * * *
MORAL COURAGE.--In an address, entitled Human Happiness--see book
notices--we find the following very straightforward definition and
advice:--
"What do I mean by moral courage? I mean the energy and spirit to say and
do what is right and true, _in a respectful and proper manner_, though it
be unpalatable to some, or apparently against our own interest. I do not
intend you to suppose that I am advising you needlessly to tell all you
know concerning either yourselves or others, but that you should avoid, as
much as in you lies, doing or saying anything which you would be ashamed
to acknowledge, _if necessary to do so_; and then when you have committed
errors and faults towards others, should not hesitate to own and correct
them. Young ladies, this would be moral courage. Do not, I beseech you,
forget what it is, and do not hesitate to practise it, for it is a
beautiful quality; it will always promote your comfort, respectability,
and happiness, and very often your immediate and best interests."
* * * * *
FLOWERS AND THEIR INFLUENCE.--The people of France pay much attention to
flowers, and thus one of their best writers on Education, M. Aimé Martin,
describes the effect of this taste:--
"In all countries women love flowers, in all countries they form nosegays
of them; but it is only in the bosom of plenty that they conceive the idea
of embellishing their dwellings with them. The cultivation of flowers
among the peasantry indicates a revolution in all their feelings. It is
a delicate pleasure, which makes its way through coarse organs; it is
a creature, whose eyes are opened; it is the sense of the beautiful,
a faculty of the soul which is awakened. Man, then, understands that
there is in the gifts of nature a something more than is necessary for
existence; color, forms, odors, are perceived for the first time, and
these charming objects have at last spectators. Those who have travelled
in the country can testify, that a rose-tree under the window, a
honeysuckle around the door of a cottage, are always a good omen to the
tired traveller. The hand which cultivates flowers is not closed against
the supplications of the poor, or the wants of the stranger."
* * * * *
CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATIONS OF YOUNG MEN.--These are becoming the rule in our
cities. We have before us the "First Annual Report" of one formed in
Boston a year or two ago. Why might not similar associations be formed
among the young women? Many a girl from the country has been lost, who
might have lived virtuously, happily, and usefully, had she, when coming
to the city, known friends of her own sex to whom she might have gone for
counsel in her loneliness and sorrows. But these efforts to save young
men will gladden the hearts of mothers and sisters, whose brothers and
sons are gone from the domestic roof out into the dangers and temptations
of the world. We subjoin the opening remarks, or reasons for the
association:--