The time during which the divers can remain submerged is variously stated,

and no doubt it differs greatly according to the constitution of the

individual. Some observers declare that, in their experience, it never

exceeded fifty seconds; but Captain Percival, in his work on Ceylon,

gives two minutes as the usual time of remaining under water.[10] Serious

effects are produced by this employment, and the divers may frequently be

seen with blood issuing from their mouth and nostrils. Yet this does not

hinder them from going down in their turn. They will make from forty to

fifty plunges in one day, and bring up on each occasion about one hundred

oysters. Their day closes before noon; for, as soon as the sea-breeze sets

in, the signal is given for the return of the boats to the shore. Their

owners, and a large assemblage of persons of all classes, are eagerly

looking out for the arrival of the flotilla, and are soon busily employed

in examining and stowing away the cargoes.

Each owner has a shallow pit fenced round and secured for his own use,

in which his store of oysters is deposited, and left open to the air.

This pit, or _couttó_, as it is called, is in the midst of a group of

huts belonging to the same owner, so that it is under guard of his

party. Here the oysters are allowed to putrefy under a burning sun, and

a stench arises from them which would seem enough to depopulate the

shore of its thousands of inhabitants. Yet such is not the case. The

health of the people does not appear to be materially affected, and

the oysters are allowed to remain till dry, when they can be easily

opened and the pearls extracted. To open them when fresh would require

much greater force, and would be likely to injure the pearls. When the

putrefaction is sufficiently advanced, the oysters are taken from the

_couttó_, and placed in troughs made of the trunks of trees. Sea-water

is thrown over them: they are easily opened, and render their pearls to

the washing and shaking of a number of men who stand all on one side of

the trough, while inspectors at each end closely watch their proceedings,

and other inspectors examine the shells which are thrown away, lest they

should contain some of the precious substance. The workmen engaged in

washing pearls dare not lift their hands to their mouths under penalty

of a flogging, yet a man will sometimes contrive to swallow a pearl

of high price. After all the pearls are washed out, the largest are

carefully picked out from the sand at the bottom of the troughs and

washed repeatedly in clean water: the next in size are spread out on

white napkins to dry in the sun. The remainder are left to the care of

women, who pick them up and dry them. Pearls are assorted by means of

three sieves placed one above another, the meshes in which are smaller

as the pearls descend. Thus the pearls which will not pass through the

uppermost sieve are of the first class, and so on with the others. Another

assortment is made as to color, regularity of form, &c., and here the

tastes of different nations have to be consulted. The Europeans prefer

pure white pearls, the Indians yellow pearls, and the natives of Ceylon

those which are tinged with rose-color.

Besides the number of persons who arrive in Ceylon in the fishing season

for the purpose of speculating in pearls, there are also numerous Indian

artisans who are very expert in piercing and drilling pearls, and who

practise their trade on the spot on economical terms. A writer thus

describes their operations: "A machine made of wood, and of a shape

resembling an obtuse inverted cone, about six inches in length and four

in breadth, is supported upon three feet, each twelve inches long. In the

upper flat surface of this machine holes or pits are formed to receive the

larger pearls, the smaller ones being beat in with a little wooden hammer.

The drilling instruments are spindles of various sizes, according to that

of the pearls; they are turned round in a wooden head by means of a bow

handle, to which they are attached. The pearls being placed in the pits

which we have already mentioned, and the point of the spindle adjusted to

them, the workman presses on the wooden head of the machine with his left

hand, while his right is employed in turning round the bow handle. During

the process of drilling, he occasionally moistens the pearl by dipping

the little finger of his right hand in a cocoa-nut filled with water,

which is placed by him for that purpose; this he does with a dexterity and

quickness which scarcely impede the operation, and can only be acquired

by much practice. They have also a variety of other instruments both for

cutting and drilling the pearls. To clean, round, and polish them to that

state in which we see them, a powder, made of the pearls themselves, is

employed. These different operations in preparing the pearls occupy a

great number of the black men in various parts of the island. In the black

town, or pettah of Columbo, in particular, many of them may every day be

seen at this work, which is well worth the attention of any European who

is not already acquainted with it."

MOTHER-OF-PEARL, or NACRE, is the hard, silvery, internal layer of several

kinds of shells, especially oysters, the large varieties of which in the

Indian seas secrete this coat of sufficient thickness to render the shell

an object of manufacture. The genus of shell-fish, _Pentadinæ_, furnishes

the finest pearls as well as mother-of-pearl: it is found round the coasts

of Ceylon, near Ormus in the Persian Gulf, at Cape Comorin, and in some of

the Australian seas. The dealers in pearl-shells consider the Chinese from

Manilla to be the best: they are fine, large, and very brilliant, with

yellow edges. Fine large shells of a dead white are supplied by Singapore.

Common varieties come from Bombay and Valparaiso, from the latter place

with jet black edges. South Sea pearl-shells are common, with white edges.

The beautiful dark-green pearl-shells called _ear-shells_ or _sea-ears_

are more concave than the others, and have small holes round the margin:

they are the coverings of the _Haliotis_, which occurs in the Californian,

South African, and East Indian seas.

In the Indian collection of the Great Exhibition in London, specimens of

the finest pearl-shells were shown, known in commerce as _flat-shells_,

_ear-shells_, _green snail-shells_, _buffalo-shells_, _Bombay shells_. It

is stated that the shores of the Sooloo Islands afford the finest shells.

The beautiful tints of mother-of-pearl depend upon its structure;

the surface being covered with a multitude of minute grooves, which

decompose the reflected light. Sir David Brewster, who was the first to

explain these chromatic effects, discovered, on examining the surface

of mother-of-pearl with a microscope, "a grooved structure, like the

delicate texture of the skin at the top of an infant's finger, or like

the section of the annual growths of wood as seen upon a dressed plank

of fir. These may sometimes be seen by the naked eye; but they are often

so minute that 3,000 of them are contained in an inch." It is remarkable

that these iridescent hues can be communicated to other surfaces as a

seal imparts its impress to wax. The colors may be best seen by taking

an impression of the mother-of-pearl in black wax; but "a solution of

gum-arabic or of isinglass (white glue), when allowed to indurate upon

a surface of mother-of-pearl, takes a most perfect impression from it,

and exhibits all the communicable colors in the finest manner, when seen

either by reflection or transmission. By placing the isinglass between two

finely-polished surfaces of good specimens of mother-of-pearl, we obtain

a film of artificial mother-of-pearl, which, when seen by single lights,

such as that of a candle, or by an aperture in the window, will shine with

the brightest hues."

It is in consequence of this lamellar structure that pearl-shells admit

of being split into laminæ for the handles of knives, for counters, and

for inlaying. Splitting, however, is liable to spoil the shell, and is

therefore avoided as much as possible. The different parts of the shell

are selected as near as possible to suit the required purposes, and the

excess of thickness is got rid of at the grindstone. In preparing the

rough pearl-shell, the square and angular pieces are cut out with the

ordinary brass-back saw, and the circular pieces, such as those for

buttons, with the annular or crown-saw, fixed upon a lathe-mandrel. The

pieces are next ground flat upon a wet grindstone, the edge of which is

turned with a number of grooves, the ridges of which are less liable to

be clogged than the entire surface, and hence grind more quickly. If the

stone be wetted with soap and water, it is less liable to be clogged. The

pieces are finished on the flat side of the stone, and are then ready for

inlaying, engraving, polishing, &c. Cylindrical pieces are cut out of the

thick part of the shell, near the hinge, and are rounded on the grindstone

preparatory to being turned in the lathe. Counters, silk-winders, &c.,

are smoothed with Trent sand or pumice-stone and water on a buff-wheel

or hand-polisher, and are finished with rotten-stone moistened with

sulphuric acid, which develops finely the striated structure of the shell.

For inlaid works, the surface is made flat by filing and scraping; then

pumice-stone is used, and after this putty-powder, both on buff-sticks

with water; and the final polish is given with rotten-stone and

sulphuric acid, unless tortoise-shell, or some other substance liable to

be injuriously affected by the acid, be present in the inlay. In turned

works, fine emery-paper, rotten-stone and acid or oil are used. The

pearl handles for razors are slightly riveted together in pairs, then

_scraped_, _sand-buffed_ on the wheel with Trent sand and water; thirdly,

_gloss-buffed_ on the wheel with rotten-stone and oil, or sometimes with

dry chalk rubbed on the same wheel; and fourthly, they are _handed up_, or

polished with dry rotten-stone and the naked hand.

ARTIFICIAL PEARLS.--The art of making artificial pearls has been brought

to such perfection in Paris, that even jewellers and pawnbrokers have

occasionally had a difficulty in deciding between the artificial and

the real. The origin of this successful imitation is given as follows:

A French bead-maker named Jaquin, observing that when the small fish

called _ablette_, or bleak (_Cyprinus alburnus_), was washed, the water

was filled with fine silver-colored particles, collected some of these

for the purposes of his trade. He found that the soft shining powder thus

obtained had, to a remarkable degree, the lustre of pearls; hence, he

called it essence of pearl, or _essence d'orient_. He first made small

beads of gypsum and covered them with this substance; they were greatly

admired and eagerly sought after; but it was found that this pearly coat,

when exposed to heat, separated itself from the bead, and attached itself

to the skin of the wearer in a manner that was anything but pleasant. The

ladies themselves, it is said, suggested to Jaquin the making of hollow

glass beads, and covering the inside with essence of pearl. This he did,

and established a manufacture, of which some idea may be gained by the

following account. Slender tubes of glass are first prepared, called

_girasols_, a term applied to opal, and sometimes to the stone called

cat's-eye, and given to these tubes because the glass is of a peculiar

bluish tint. From these the artist blows minute globules, to the extent of

from two to six thousand per day, not caring to make them all perfectly

regular or free from blemish, because the natural pearls are not so. The

pearl essence is then mixed with a solution of isinglass, and is blown

while hot into each bead by means of a fine glass pipe. The solution is

spread equally over the whole internal surface, by shaking the pearls in

a vessel placed over the table where the workman sits, and to which he

gives motion by his foot. When the varnish is equally diffused and dry,

the beads are filled with white wax; this gives them the necessary weight

and solidity, and renders them less fragile. They are then bored with a

needle, and threaded on strings for sale. The holes in the finer sort are

lined with thin paper, that the thread may not adhere to the wax.

To produce one pound of scales no fewer than 4,000 fishes are required;

but this quantity of scales only yields four ounces of pearl essence. The

fish are about four inches long; they are sold at a cheap rate in the

markets after being deprived of their scales. The value of a pound of

washed scales in the Chalonnais is from fifteen to twenty-five livres. The

early manufacturers suffered great inconvenience from not knowing how to

preserve the scales from putrefaction, and consequently being obliged to

use the essence immediately it was obtained, lest it should acquire the

intolerable odor of decayed fish. Attempts were made to preserve them in

spirit of wine or brandy, but those liquors wholly destroyed their lustre.

At length it was discovered that these fishy particles can be kept for a

long time in solution of ammonia, and this enables the manufacturers of

artificial pearls to carry on a considerable traffic with distant places

where the fish is plentiful, the supply from the Seine, though abundant,

being insufficient for the purposes of the trade of Paris. Down to a

late period, the heirs of M. Jaquin continued to manufacture pearls to

a considerable extent, in the Rue de Petit Lion, at Paris. An elaborate

account of this art is given by De Beost, in a work entitled, "_L'Art

d'imiter les Perles fines_," from which most English descriptions of this

manufacture have been obtained.

[Illustration: ARTIFICIAL PEARLS IN THE MUSSEL (MYA MARGARITIFERA).]

In a recent number of the "Journal of the Society of Arts," it was stated

that an "oyster, or rather a mussel, of the species known to naturalists

as the _mya margaritifera_, in which the artificial pearls are formed by

the Chinese, had recently been sent to England. These pearls are only

obtained near Ning-po, and until lately very little was known of the

manner in which they were formed; and the account first published by Sir

Joseph Banks was generally questioned. The _Hermes_ steamer, however,

on a late visit to that place, was able to obtain several live ones, in

which, on being opened, several pearls, as many as eighteen or twenty,

were found in the course of formation. The one sent only contains simple

pearls adhering to the shell. It appears they are formed by introducing

some pieces of wood or baked earth into the animal while alive, which,

irritating it, causes it to cover the extraneous substance with a pearly

deposit. Little figures made of metal are frequently introduced, and,

when covered with the deposit, are valued by the Chinese as charms. These

figures generally represent Buddha in the sitting position, in which that

image is most frequently portrayed. Several specimens have, it is said,

been preserved alive in spirits, and others slightly opened, so as to show

the pearls."

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 10: Dr. Faraday found that, by first exhausting the lungs by

several deep exhalations, so as to expel the carbonic acid, and then

taking a deep inspiration of fresh air, he was able to hold his breath for

two minutes and a half.]

ILLUMINATED, OR VELLUM-PAINTING.

AS it is the duty of a faithful journalist not only to "hit the follies

of the day," but to study the tastes of the times, we have now ventured

to make a few remarks on an art which has of late been revived, and which

is now not only much practised as an accomplishment, but widely diffused

as a means of general ornamentation. A slight sketch of its history will

perhaps form a not unacceptable introduction to our subject.

It would appear that the metallic portions, and the general idea of

illuminated painting, have been familiar to Oriental nations for ages;

numberless traces of it, as applied to decorative purposes, having been

discovered among those memorials now existing of the early Persian,

Arabian, and Moorish races. The Egyptians, too, appear to have possessed

the art of adding burnished gold or silver to their paintings; but

whether they ever thus ornamented manuscripts is not known to us--in all

probability they did not. Neither do the more ancient inhabitants of Italy

appear to have applied it to manuscripts, for none of those discovered

amid the ruins of the buried cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii are

illuminated.

Many writers have surmised that manuscripts were not thus decorated

until they began to assume something of the folio form; certainly, we

are not aware of any traces of illuminating having been found in those

rolled manuscripts which have descended to us. "The Dioscorides" in the

Library of Vienna, and the celebrated copy of "Virgil" in the Vatican

at Rome--both of which are supposed to date back so far as the fourth

century--are believed to be the oldest examples of illuminated MSS.

extant; and these can scarcely claim to be termed illuminated, for they

only differ from ordinary manuscripts in having colored capitals. It is

not until the seventh century that we find this art practised in any part

of Great Britain; and then, in its earliest form, it simply consisted in

staining the vellum purple or rose color, or inscribing the characters

in gold. In the British Museum is a splendid MS., termed the "Golden

Gospels," supposed to date from about the eighth century; its text is

entirely of gold. There are some beautiful decorations in this valuable

and curious relic of the patience, industry, and artistic powers of our

Anglo-Saxon ancestors. There is another illuminated manuscript copy of the

Gospels in the Archiepiscopal Library at Lambeth Palace, supposed to be

nine hundred years old, and to have been painted by Moelbrigid Mac Durnan,

Abbot of Derry, for Athelstan, who presented it to the city of Canterbury.

In those early ages, illuminating was applied only to religious and

devotional MSS.; and it was chiefly done by members of the religious

orders, for a very good reason--that they appear to have been almost

the sole depositories of what learning and fine arts then existed. The

celebrated St. Dunstan is said to have been a skilful illuminator, and is

represented, in one of the pictures of an old manuscript, as busily at

work decorating a missal.

The earlier specimens of illuminating which have descended to us are

mostly crude and simple, consisting chiefly of colored capitals, stained

ground, and metallic letters. For several ages the art does not appear

to have made much progress, except that the capital letters increase in

size, in ornament and beauty; and about the twelfth century we find them

assuming a gigantic height, abounding in florid development, gorgeous

in hues, and often exquisite in execution. In the early part of the

fourteenth century an alteration is perceptible--the MS. pages assume

an illuminated border, which at first only passes down one side, but

gradually extends along the top and the bottom of the page; and, after a

lapse of years, constitutes a complete frame to the text.

These borders at first consist simply of foliage or scrolls; but, as the

art improves, and doubtless is more fostered and patronized, arabesques

are introduced, in which forms of marvellous grace and beauty, linked

in inextricable twinings, shine forth in all the gorgeous hues of a

brilliant sunset; and these are, at a later period, gemmed with medallions

or miniature paintings, illustrative of portfolios of the text. Indeed,

several of the most celebrated painters of those days did not disdain

to enrich MSS. for some high personage with specimens of their artistic

skill. This continued until the middle of the sixteenth century.

Subsequently, a progressive decline in the excellence and artistic beauty

of illuminated painting becomes very evident. It is true that, in the

middle of the seventeenth century, it was florid, gorgeous, and, to a

certain degree, admirable, but it was not the beauty of art; the rococo

taste was beginning to dawn--that strange exuberance of fancy which heaped

in one mass the most incongruous details, and was often more cumbrous and

grotesque than graceful and harmonious. Nor was it probably only to this

cause that the decline in the art may be attributed--the introduction of

printing, and its gradual diffusion, had made manuscripts less valuable.

The Reformation also, doubtless, had its share in depreciating illuminated

painting, which soon ceased to be practised to any extent--excepting in

Catholic countries--for the decoration of missals.

Then comes a period of some hundred or hundred and fifty years, during

which the art may almost be said to be extinct; nor is it until within

the last ten or twenty years that it has received much attention. Then,

when lithographic printing, and various similar improvements, facilitated

the reproduction of an indefinite number of copies of any given subject,

and the still further invention of color-printing and chromo-lithography

came into exercise, the value of a study of illuminated painting was

perceived, and its applicability to all purposes of literary ornamentation

developed. The title-pages of albums, of music, and of annuals; the covers

of magazines and books; the initial letters of articles in periodicals;

the decorations on circulars, cards, labels, and numberless other

similar productions, whether printed, colored, gilded, or stamped--all

will be found more or less derivable from the old style of illuminated

manuscripts; indeed, a person who has not studied it can form little idea

how largely its principles enter into all this kind of decorations.

It has been said that this branch of the art of painting is so mechanical

as to be easily taught in a few lessons to those who have no previous

knowledge of drawing. This we cannot fully admit. It is true such persons

may acquire a smattering of the art--a crude, inartistic style of working

it; but, unless they have a correct eye, good taste, and some judgment,

they cannot achieve anything that will not betray the amateur.

It is by no means an easy matter to give practical written instructions

for illuminated painting on vellum; for it is not merely directions as to

what materials shall be used, and the mode of employing them, that are

required, but principles for general guidance which have to be inculcated.

The desired effects cannot be produced by a heterogeneous assemblage of

forms and colors, but only by careful and artistic combinations of the

appropriate and the harmonious.

In the matter of letters, allegorical letters, suitable to the subject

they are to commence, may be obtained by arranging animals, fishes,

reptiles, &c. &c., into the requisite forms.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.]

Fig. 1 represents an L adapted for a paper on botany.

For those who may wish to paint from these cuts, we state that the leaves

are of sap-green, shaded with Prussian green, and just touched at the tips

with gold; the small ones are more delicately tinted than the others.

[Illustration: Fig. 2.]

Fig. 2 is a T adapted for a paper on woods or forest trees. It is painted

in Vandyke brown, and shaded with black, and the leaves and ground are

green.

In an old MS. at the British Museum, the human form is most oddly

contorted into grotesque semblances of capital letters. An initial for a

paper on war may be composed of armor, weapons, &c.

Fig. 3, an S, is suitable for a heroic poem, or romantic tale of

chivalry. For agriculture, we form our initial of corn, or the implements

of husbandry, and such like; for music, of musical instruments and

characteristic ornaments.

The S in the annexed cut is of silver, burnished and wrought (terms which

we shall presently explain); the flag is painted in ultramarine, and

striped and bordered with silver the spear-headed staff is shaded with

Vandyke brown, and its decorations put in with silver.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.]

[Illustration: Fig. 4.]

Fig. 4 is not an allegorical letter, but simply decorative, and adapted

for a title-page, rather than an initial. The darker and central parts of

the letter are of vermilion, shaded with carmine; and the ornamentation

of gold burnished and wrought. The letter in Fig. 5 belongs to the same

class, and is only a modification of style; the white ground is merely

shaded up with soft touches of carmine. The varieties of letters which

can be formed are endless, and may be as quaint and as ideal as fancy can

devise, provided they are also appropriate, and do not depart from the

gracefully-curved line of beauty.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.]

Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 48, June, 1854 · 第 9 / 16 段