BY SEA TO THE CONGO RIVER.
The Sultan of Zanzibar--Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls--On board s.s.
_Madura_--"Shindy" between the Zanzibaris and Soudanese--Sketches
of my various officers--Tippu-Tib and Cape Town--Arrival at the
mouth of the Congo River--Start up the Congo--Visit from two of the
Executive Committee of the Congo State--Unpleasant thoughts.
The following private letter to a friend will explain some things of
general interest:--
SS. _Madura_, March 9th, 1887,
Near Cape of Good Hope.
My dear ----,
Apart from the Press letters which are to be published for the benefit of
the Relief Fund, and which will contain all that the public ought to know
just now, I shall have somewhat to say to you and other friends.
The Sultan of Zanzibar received me with unusual kindness, much of which I
owe to the introduction of Mr. William Mackinnon and Sir John Kirk. He
presented me with a fine sword, a shirazi blade I should say, richly
mounted with gold, and a magnificent diamond ring, which quite makes
Tippu-Tib's eyes water. With the sword is the golden belt of His
Highness, the clasp of which bears his name in Arabic. It will be useful
as a sign, if I come before Arabs, of the good understanding between the
Prince and myself; and if I reach the Egyptian officers, some of whom are
probably illiterate, they must accept the sword as a token that we are
not traders.
You will have seen by the papers that I have taken with me sixty-one
soldiers--Soudanese. My object has been to enable them to speak for me
to the Soudanese of Equatoria. The Egyptians may affect to disbelieve
firmans and the writing of Nubar, in which case these Soudanese will be
pushed forward as living witnesses of my commission.
[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF TIPPU-TIB.]
I have settled several little commissions at Zanzibar satisfactorily. One
was to get the Sultan to sign the concessions which Mackinnon tried to
obtain a long time ago. As the Germans have magnificent territory east of
Zanzibar, it was but fair that England should have some portion for the
protection she has accorded to Zanzibar since 1841. The Germans appeared
to have recognized this, as you may see by the late Anglo-German
Agreement. France had already obtained an immense area in West Africa.
All the world had agreed to constitute the domain of King Leopold, on
which he had spent a million sterling, as the Independent State of the
Congo. Portugal, which is a chronic grumbler, and does little, and that
little in a high-handed, illiberal manner, has also been graciously
considered by the European Powers; but England, which had sent out her
explorers, Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Grant, Baker, Keith Johnston,
Thomson, Elton, &c., had obtained nothing, and probably no people had
taken such interest in the Dark Continent, or had undergone such
sacrifices in behalf of the aborigines, as the English. Her cruisers for
the last twenty years had policed the ocean along the coast to suppress
slave-catching; her missions were twenty-two in number, settled between
East and West Africa. This concession that we wished to obtain embraced a
portion of the East African coast, of which Mombasa and Melindi were the
principal towns. For eight years, to my knowledge, the matter had been
placed before His Highness, but the Sultan's signature was difficult to
obtain.
Arriving at Zanzibar, I saw the Sultan was aging, and that he had not
long to live.[F] Englishmen could not invest money in the reserved
"sphere of influence" until some such concessions were signed.
"Please God," said the Sultan, "we shall agree; there will be no further
doubt about the matter." But his political anxieties are wearing him
fast, and unless this matter is soon completed it will be too late.
The other affair was with Tippu-Tib. He had actually in his possession
three Krupp shells, unloaded, which he had brought with him from Stanley
Falls, on the Upper Congo, to Zanzibar, to exhibit to his friends as the
kind of missiles which the Belgians pelted his settlements with--and he
was exceedingly wroth, and nourished a deep scheme of retaliation. It
took me some time to quiet his spasms of resentment. People very furious
must be allowed time to vent their anger. When he had poured out his
indignation some time, I quietly asked him if he had finished, saying, in
a bland way, that I knew well how great and powerful he was, etc., and I
told him that it was scarcely fair to blame all the Europeans and King
Leopold because an officer at Stanley Falls had been pleased to heave
Krupp shells at his settlements; that this trouble had been caused by the
excess of zeal of one man in defending a slave woman who had sought his
protection, in the same way that Rashid, his nephew, had been carried
away by the fury of youth to defend his rights. The Governor of the Congo
State was absent nearly 1500 miles down the river, and Tippu-Tib, the
owner of the settlements, was several hundred miles eastward on the way
to Zanzibar. Now I look upon this affair as the result of a match between
one young white man and a young Arab. The gray heads are absent who would
have settled the trouble without fighting: youths are always "on their
muscle," you know.
"Do you know," I continued, "that that station has given us a great deal
of trouble. We sent Amelot, you remember. Well, he just left the station
without orders, and died somewhere near Nyangwé; then the next, Gleerup,
a Swede, followed suit, and travelled across Africa instead; then we sent
Deane, and for a change he would have war with the Arabs. King Leopold is
not to blame for all this. It is a difficult thing to get men who are
always wise, and understand thoroughly what their orders are. If King
Leopold had sent Deane to fight you, he would not have sent him with
thirty men, you may be sure."
Now, look here. He proposes that you try your hand at governing that
station. He will pay you every month what he would pay an European
officer. There are certain little conditions that you must comply with
before you become Governor.
Tippu-Tib opened his eyes and snapped them rapidly, as his custom is, and
asked, "Me?"
"Yes, you. You like money; I offer you money. You have a grudge against
white men being there. Well, if you do your work rightly there will be no
need for any white men, except him whom we shall have to place under you,
to see that the conditions are not broken."
"Well, what are they?"
"You must hoist the flag of the State. You must allow a Resident to be
with you, who will write your reports to the King. You must neither trade
in slaves, nor allow anybody else to trade in them below Stanley Falls.
Nor must there be any slave-catching; you understand. Such trade as you
make in ivory, gums, rubber, cattle, and anything else, you may do as
much as you please. But there is to be no pillaging native property of
any description whatever below your station. A monthly allowance will be
paid into the hands of your Agent at Zanzibar. Don't answer right away.
Go and discuss it with your friends, and think of what I offer you. My
ship sails on the third day. Give me your answer to-morrow."
A favourable answer was given, a proper agreement was drawn up before the
Consul-General, and we both signed.
I made another agreement with him about the engagement of carriers to
carry ammunition to Lake Albert from the Congo. If there is no ivory I
shall be indebted to Tippu-Tib for the sum of £3,600. But there must be
some, as both Emin Pasha and Dr. Junker declare there is a large store of
it. At the same time I shall not risk the Expedition for the sake of the
ivory.
In consideration of these services which Tippu-Tib has solemnly
contracted to perform, I permitted him free passage for himself and
ninety-six of his kinsmen from Zanzibar to the Congo, with board
included. I also undertook the responsibility of conveying the entire
party safely to Stanley Falls, thus incurring not a small expense, but
which if faithfully performed will be amply paid for by the services
mentioned in the articles of agreement. These negotiations with Tippu-Tib
also ensure for us a peaceful march from the Congo through his
territory, a thing that would have been by no means possible without
him--as his various hordes of raiders will be widely scattered throughout
the region; and it is scarcely likely that we should be allowed to pass
in peace, resenting, as they must naturally do, their late rupture with
Deane. Having bound Tippu-Tib to me I feel somewhat safe against that
constant fear of desertion of the Zanzibaris. No Arab will now persuade
the people to desert, as is their custom when a white man's Expedition
passes near their settlements. Tippu-Tib dare not countenance such
proceedings in this case.
The _Madura_ is a comfortable steamer. On the _Oriental_ and _Navarino_
we were uncomfortably crowded. Tween decks abreast of the boilers is
rather a hot place for the people; but we have had agreeable weather, and
the men have preferred to stow themselves in the boats, and among the
donkeys, and on deck, to the baking heat below.
Two hours from Zanzibar, what is called a "shindy" took place between the
Zanzibaris and Soudanese. For a short time it appeared as though we
should have to return to Zanzibar with many dead and wounded. It rose
from a struggle for room. The Soudanese had been located directly in the
way of the Zanzibaris, who, being ten times more numerous, required
breathing space. They were all professed Moslems, but no one thought of
their religion as they seized upon firewood and pieces of planking to
batter and bruise each other. The battle had raged some time before I
heard of it. As I looked down the hatchway the sight was fearful--blood
freely flowed down a score of faces, and ugly pieces of firewood flew
about very lively. A command could not be heard in that uproar, and some
of us joined in with shillelaghs, directing our attacks upon the
noisiest. It required a mixture of persuasiveness and sharp knocks to
reduce the fractious factions to order, especially with the Soudanese
minority, who are huge fellows. The Soudanese were marched out of their
place and located aft, and the Zanzibaris had all the forward half of
the ship to themselves. After we had wiped the blood and perspiration
away I complimented the officers, especially Jephson, Nelson, and Bonny,
for their share in the fray. They had behaved most gallantly. The result
of the scrimmage is ten broken arms, fifteen serious gashes with spears
on the face and head, and contusions on shoulders and backs not worth
remark, and several abrasions of the lower limbs.
Surgeon Parke has been very busy vaccinating the entire community on
board ship. Fortunately I had procured a large supply of lymph for this
purpose, because of the harsh experience of the past.
We also divided the people into seven companies of about ninety men
each.
I have ordered my Agent to send me 200 loads of various goods to meet the
Expedition at Msalala, south end of Lake Victoria. They will be sent
about October or November, 1887, arriving at Msalala in February or
March, 1888, because if everything proceeds as I should wish, we shall be
somewhere near there not very long after that date.
* * * * *
I have been in the company of my officers since I left Aden, and I have
been quietly observing them. I will give you a sketch of them as they
appear to me now.
Barttelot is a little too eager, and will have to be restrained. There is
abundance of work in him, and this quality would be most lovely if it
were always according to orders. The most valuable man to me would be he
who had Barttelot's spirit and "go" in him, and who could come and ask if
such and such a work ought to be done. Such a course suggests
thoughtfulness and willingness, besides proper respect.
There is a great deal in Mounteney Jephson, though he was supposed to be
effeminate. He is actually fierce when roused, and his face becomes
dangerously set and fixed. I noted him during the late battle aboard, and
I came near crying out "Bravo, Jephson!" though I had my own stick, "big
as a mast," as the Zanzibaris say, to wield. It was most gallant and
plucky. He will be either made or marred if he is with this Expedition
long enough.
Captain Nelson is a fine fellow, and without the ghost of a hobby: he is
the same all round, and at all hours.
Stairs, of the Royal Engineers, is a splendid fellow, painstaking, ready,
thoughtful, and industrious, and is an invaluable addition to our staff.
Jameson is still the nice fellow we saw; there is not an atom of change
in him. He is sociable and good.
Bonny is the soldier. He is not initiative. He seems to have been under a
martinet's drill.
* * * * *
_March 16th, 1887._
At Cape Town, Tippu-Tib, after remarking the prosperity and business stir
of the city, and hearing its history from me, said that he formerly had
thought all white men to be fools.
"Really," I said; "Why?"
"That was my opinion."
"Indeed! and what do you think of them now?" I asked.
"I think they have something in them, and that they are more enterprising
than Arabs."
"What makes you think so, particularly now?"
"Well, myself and kinsmen have been looking at this town, these big ships
and piers, and we have thought how much better all these things appear
compared to Zanzibar, which was captured from the Portuguese before this
town was built, and I have been wondering why we could not have done as
well as you white people. I begin to think you must be very clever."
"If you have discovered so much, Tippu-Tib, you are on the high road to
discover more. The white men require a deal of study before you can
quite make them out. It is a pity you never went to England for a
visit."
"I hope to go there before I die."
"Be faithful to us on this long journey, and I will take you there, and
you will see more things than you can dream of now."
"Inshallah! if it is the will of Allah we shall go together."
* * * * *
On the 18th March the _Madura_ entered the mouth of the Congo River, and
dropped her anchor about 200 yards abreast of the sandy point, called
Banana.
In a few minutes I was in the presence of Mr. Lafontaine Ferney, the
chief Agent of the Dutch Company, to whom our steamer was consigned.
Through some delay he had not been informed of our intending to arrive as
soon. Everybody professed surprise, as they did not expect us before the
25th, but this fortunate accident was solely due to the captain and the
good steamer. However, I succeeded in making arrangements by which the
Dutch Company's steamer _K. A. Nieman_--so named after a fine young man
of that name, who had lately died at St. Paul de Loanda--would be placed
at my disposal, for the transport to Mataddi of 230 men next day.
On returning to the ship, I found my officers surrounding two English
traders, connected with the British Congo Company of Banana. They were
saying some unpleasant things about the condition of the State steamers.
"There is a piece of the _Stanley_ on shore now, which will give you an
idea of that steamer. The _Stanley_ is a perfect ruin, we are told.
However, will you leave the Pool? The State has not one steamer in
service. They are all drawn up on the banks for repairs, which will take
months. We don't see how you are to get away from here under six weeks!
Look at that big steamer on the sands! she has just come out from Europe;
the fool of a captain ran her on shore instead of waiting for a pilot.
She has got the sections of a steamer in her hold. The _Heron_ and
_Belgique_, both State steamers, have first, of course, to float that
steamer off. You are in for it nicely, we can tell you."
Naturally, this news was very discouraging to our officers and two of
them hastened to comfort me with the disastrous news. They were not so
well acquainted with the manners of the "natives" of the Lower Congo as I
was. I only marvelled why they had not been politely requested to
accompany their new aquaintances to the cemetery, in order that they
might have the exquisite gratification of exhibiting the painted
headboards, which record the deaths of many fine young men, as promising
in appearance as they.
I turned to the Agent of the British Congo, and requested permission to
charter his steamer, the _Albuquerque_. The gentleman graciously acceded.
This assured me transport for 140 men and 60 tons cargo. I then begged
that he and his friend would negotiate for the charter of the large
paddle boat the _Serpa Pinto_. Their good offices were entirely
successful, and before evening I knew that we should leave Banana Point
with 680 men and 160 tons cargo on the next day. The State steamer
_Heron_ I was told would not be able to leave before the 20th.
On the 19th the steamers _K. A. Kieman_, _Albuquerque_, and _Serpa
Pinto_, departed from Banana Point, and before night had anchored at
Ponta da Lenha. The next day the two former steamers steamed straight up
to Mataddi. The _Serpa Pinto_ hauled into the pier at Boma, to allow me
to send an official intimation of the fact that the new Governor of
Stanley Falls was aboard, and to receive a hurried visit from two of the
Executive Committee charged with the administration of the Congo State.
We had but time to exchange a few words, but in that short time they
managed to inform me that there was a "famine in the country"; that "the
villages along the road to the Pool were abandoned"; that "the _Stanley_
was seriously damaged"; that "the Mission steamers _Peace_ and _Henry
Reed_ were in some unknown parts of the Upper Congo"; that "the _En
Avant_ was on shore without machinery or boiler;" that "the _A. I. A._
was 500 miles above Stanley Pool"; and that "the _Royal_ was perfectly
rotten;" and had not been employed for a year; in fact, that the whole of
the naval stock promised did not exist at all except in the imagination
of the gentlemen of the Bureau at Brussels; and, said one, who seemed to
be the principal of the Executive Committee, with deliberate emphasis:
"The boats were only to assist you if they could be given without
prejudice to the service of the State."
The gruff voice of the Portuguese captain of the _Serpa Pinto_ ordered
the gentlemen on shore, and we proceeded on our way up the Congo.
My thoughts were not of the pleasantest. With my flotilla of fifteen
whale boats I might have been independent; but there was an objection to
the Congo route, and therefore that plan was abandoned. We had no sooner
adopted the East Coast route than the Sovereign of the Congo State
invited the Expedition to pass through his territory; the Germans had
murmured, and the French Government protested at the idea of our marching
through East Africa. When it was too late to order the flotilla of whale
boats from Forrest and Son we then accepted the Congo route, after
stipulating for transport up the Lower Congo, for porterage to Stanley
Pool, and the loan of the steamers on the Upper Congo which were now said
to be wrecked, rotten, or without boilers or engines, or scattered
inaccessible. In my ears rang the cry in England: "Hurry up, or you may
be too late!" and singing through my memory were the words of Junker:
"Emin will be lost unless immediate aid be given him;" and Emin's appeal
for help; for, if denied, "we shall perish."
"Well, the aspect of our work is ominous. It is not my fault, and what we
have to do is simple enough. We have given our promise to strive our
level best. It is no time for regret, but to struggle and "steer right
onward." Every article of our verbal bond, having accepted this
responsibility, we must perform, and it is the manner of this
performance that I now propose to relate.
I shall not delay the narration to give descriptions of the route
overland to the Pool, or of the Upper Congo and its banks, as these have
been sufficiently treated of in 'Through the Dark Continent,' and 'The
Congo and the Founding of its Free State'; and I now propose to be very
brief with the incidents of our journey to Yambuya, at the head of
navigation on the Aruwimi."
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[F] Seyyid Barghash died six months later.