Santa Barbara
Picturesque situation
Fertility of the country
Climate
Population
Society
Leave Santa Barbara
Rincon
Grampus
Mission of St. Buenaventura
Fine gardens
Meet a party of mounted Californians
They retreat before us
Abundance of maize
Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton
Effects of war upon the country
More of the enemy in sight
News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton
Mission of San Fernando
The Maguey
Capitulation of the Californians
Arrive at Los Angeles
General reflections upon the march
Meet with old acquaintances.
The battalion remained encamped at Santa Barbara, from the 27th of
December to the 3rd of January, 1847. The U.S. flag was raised in the
public square of the town the day after our arrival.
The town of Santa Barbara is beautifully situated for the picturesque,
about one mile from the shore of a roadstead, which affords anchorage
for vessels of any size, and a landing for boats in calm weather.
During stormy weather, or the prevalence of strong winds from the
south-east, vessels, for safety, are compelled to stand out to sea. A
fertile plain extends some twenty or thirty miles up and down the
coast, varying in breadth from two to ten miles, and bounded on the
east by a range of high mountains. The population of the town I should
judge, from the number of houses, to be about 1200 souls. Most of the
houses are constructed of adobes, in the usual architectural style of
Mexican buildings. Some of them, however, are more Americanized, and
have some pretensions to tasteful architecture, and comfortable and
convenient interior arrangement. Its commerce, I presume, is limited to
the export of hides and tallow produced upon the surrounding plain; and
the commodities received in exchange for these from the traders on the
coast. Doubtless, new and yet undeveloped sources of wealth will be
discovered hereafter that will render this town of much greater
importance than it is at present.
On the coast, a few miles above Santa Barbara, there are, I have been
told, immense quantities of pure bitumen or mineral tar, which, rising
in the ocean, has been thrown upon the shore by the waves, where in a
concrete state, like resin, it has accumulated in inexhaustible masses.
There are, doubtless, many valuable minerals in the neighbouring
mountains, which, when developed by enterprise, will add greatly to the
wealth and importance of the town. For intelligence, refinement, and
civilization, the population, it is said, will compare advantageously
with any in California. Some old and influential Spanish families are
residents of this place; but their _casas_, with the exception of that
of Senor Don José Noriega, the largest house in the place, are now
closed and deserted. Senor N. is one of the oldest and most respectable
citizens of California, having filled the highest offices in the
government of the country. One of his daughters is a resident of New
York, having married Alfred Robinson, Esq., of that city, author of
"Life in California."
The climate, judging from the indications while we remained here, must
be delightful, even in winter. With the exception of one day, which was
tempestuous, the temperature at night did not fall below 50°, and
during the day the average was between 60° and 70°. The atmosphere was
perfectly clear and serene, the weather resembling that of the pleasant
days of April in the same latitude on the Atlantic side of the
continent. It is a peculiarity of the Mexicans that they allow no shade
or ornamental trees to grow near their houses. In none of the streets
of the towns or missions through which I have passed has there been a
solitary tree standing. I noticed very few horticultural attempts in
Santa Barbara. At the mission, about two miles distant, which is an
extensive establishment and in good preservation, I was told that there
were fine gardens, producing most of the varieties of fruits of the
tropical and temperate climates.
Several Californians came into camp and offered to deliver themselves
up. They were permitted to go at large. They represented that the
Californian force at the south was daily growing weaker from
dissensions and desertions. The United States prize-schooner Julia
arrived on the 30th, from which was landed a cannon for the use of the
battalion. It has, however, to be mounted on wheels, and the gear
necessary for hauling it has to be made in the camp. Reports were
current in camp on the 31st, that the Californians intended to meet and
fight us at San Buenaventura, about thirty miles distant. On the 1st of
January, the Indians of the mission and town celebrated new-year's day,
by a procession, music, etc., etc. They marched from the mission to the
town, and through most of the empty and otherwise silent streets. Among
the airs they played was "Yankee Doodle."
_January 3_.--A beautiful spring-like day. We resumed our march at 11
o'clock, and encamped in a live-oak grove about ten miles south of
Santa-Barbara. Our route has been generally near the shore of the
ocean. Timber is abundant, and the grass and other vegetation
luxuriant. Distance 10 miles.
_January 4_.--At the "Rincon," or passage between two points of land
jutting into the ocean, so narrow that at high tides the surf dashes
against the neatly perpendicular bases of the mountains which bound the
shore, it has been supposed the hostile Californians would make a
stand, the position being so advantageous to them. The road, if road it
can be called, where all marks of hoofs or wheels are erased by each
succeeding tide, runs along a hard sand-beach, with occasional
projections of small points of level ground, ten or fifteen miles, and
the surf, even when the tide has fallen considerably, frequently
reaches to the bellies of the horses. Some demonstration has been
confidently expected here, but we encamped in this pass the first day
without meeting an enemy or seeing a sign of one. Our camp is close to
the ocean, and the roar of the surf, as it dashes against the shore, is
like that of an immense cataract. Hundreds of the grampus whale are
sporting a mile or two distant from the land, spouting up water and
spray to a great height, in columns resembling steam from the
escape-pipes of steam-boats. Distance 6 miles.
_January 5_.--The prize-schooner Julia was lying off in sight this
morning, for the purpose of co-operating with us, should there be any
attempt on the part of the enemy to interrupt the march of the
battalion. We reached the mission of San Buenaventura, and encamped a
short distance from it at two o'clock. Soon after, a small party of
Californians exhibited themselves on an elevation just beyond the
mission. The battalion was immediately called to arms, and marched out
to meet them. But, after the discharge of the two field-pieces, they
scampered away like a flock of antelopes, and the battalion returned to
camp, with none killed or wounded on either side. Under the belief that
there was a larger force of Californians encamped at a distance of some
five or six miles, and that during the night they might attempt a
surprise, or plant cannon on the summit of a hill about a mile from
camp, so as to annoy us, a party, of which I was one, was detached,
after dark, to occupy the hill secretly. We marched around the mission
as privately as possible, and took our position on the hill, where we
remained all night without the least disturbance, except by the
tempestuous wind, which blew a blast so cold and piercing as almost to
congeal the blood. When the sun rose in the morning, I could see, far
out in the ocean, three vessels scudding before the gale like phantom
ships. One of these was the little schooner that had been waiting upon
us while marching along the "Rincon." Distance 14 miles.
_January 6_.--The wind has blown a gale in our faces all day, and the
clouds of dust have been almost blinding. The mission of San
Buenaventura does not differ, in its general features, from those of
other establishments of the same kind heretofore described. There is a
large garden, inclosed by a high wall, attached to the mission, in
which I noticed a great variety of fruit-trees and ornamental
shrubbery. There are also numerous inclosures, for cultivation, by
willow hedges. The soil, when properly tilled, appears to be highly
productive. This mission is situated about two miles from the shore of
a small bay or indentation of the coast, on the edge of a plain or
valley watered by the Rio Santa Clara, which empties into the Pacific
at this point. A chain of small islands, from ten to twenty miles from
the shore, commences at Santa Barbara, and extends south along the
coast, to the bay of San Pedro. These islands present to the eye a
barren appearance. At present the only inhabitants of the mission are a
few Indians, the white population having abandoned it on our approach,
with the exception of one man, who met us yesterday and surrendered
himself a prisoner.
Proceeding up the valley about seven miles from the mission, we
discovered at a distance a party of sixty or seventy mounted
Californians, drawn up in order on the bank of the river. This, it was
conjectured, might be only a portion of a much larger force stationed
here, and concealed in a deep ravine which runs across the valley, or
in the _canadas_ of the hills on our left. Scouting-parties mounted the
hills, for the purpose of ascertaining if such was the case. In the
mean time, the party of Californians on our right scattered themselves
over the plain, prancing their horses, waving their swords, banners,
and lances, and performing a great variety of equestrian feats. They
were mounted on fine horses, and there are no better horsemen, if as
good, in the world, than Californians. They took especial care,
however, to keep beyond the reach of cannon-shot. The battalion wheeled
to the left for the purpose of crossing a point of hills jutting into
the plain, and taking the supposed concealed party of the enemy on
their flank. It was, however, found impracticable to cross the hills
with the cannon; and, returning to the plain, the march was continued,
the Californians still prancing and performing their antics in our
faces. Our horses were so poor and feeble that it was impossible to
chase them with any hope of success. As we proceeded, they retreated.
Some of the Indian scouts, among whom were a Delaware named Tom, who
distinguished himself in the engagement near San Juan, and a
Californian Indian named Gregorio, rode towards them; and two or three
guns were discharged on both sides, but without any damage, the parties
not being within dangerous gun-shot distance of each other. The
Californians then formed themselves in a body, and soon disappeared
behind some hills on our right. We encamped about four o'clock in the
valley, the wind blowing almost a hurricane, and the dust flying so as
nearly to blind us. Distance 9 miles.
_January 7_.--Continuing our march up the valley, we encamped near the
rancho of Carrillo, where we found an abundance of corn, wheat, and
frijoles. The house was shut up, having been deserted by its
proprietor, who is said to be connected with the rebellion. Californian
scouts were seen occasionally to-day on the summits of the hills south
of us. Distance 7 miles.
_January 8_.--Another tempestuous day. I do not remember ever to have
experienced such disagreeable effects from the wind and the clouds of
dust in which we were constantly enveloped, driving into our faces
without intermission. We encamped this afternoon in a grove of willows
near a rancho, where, as yesterday, we found corn and beans in
abundance. Our horses, consequently, fare well, and we fare better than
we have done. One-fourth of the battalion, exclusive of the regular
guard, is kept under arms during the night, to be prepared against
surprises and night-attacks. Distance 12 miles.
_January 9_.--Early this morning Captain Hamley, accompanied by a
Californian as a guide, came into camp, with despatches from Commodore
Stockton. The exact purport of these despatches I never learned, but it
was understood that the commodore, in conjunction with General Kearny,
was marching upon Los Angeles, and that, if they had not already
reached and taken that town (the present capital of California), they
were by this time in its neighbourhood. Captain Hamley passed, last
night, the encampment of a party of Californians in our rear. He landed
from a vessel at Santa Barbara, and from thence followed us to this
place by land. We encamped this afternoon at a rancho, situated on the
edge of a fertile and finely watered plain of considerable extent,
where we found corn, wheat, and frijoles in great abundance. The rancho
was owned and occupied by an aged Californian, of commanding and
respectable appearance; I could not but feel compassion for the
venerable old man, whose sons were now all absent and engaged in the
war, while he, at home and unsupported, was suffering the unavoidable
inconveniences and calamities resulting from an army being quartered
upon him.
As we march south there appears to be a larger supply of wheat, maize,
beans, and barley in the granaries of the ranchos. More attention is
evidently given to the cultivation of the soil here than farther north,
although neither the soil nor climate is so well adapted to the raising
of crops. The Californian spies have shown themselves at various times
to-day, on the summits of the hills on our right. Distance 12 miles.
_January 10_.--Crossing the plain, we encamped, about two o'clock P.M.,
in the mouth of a _canada_, through which we ascend over a difficult
pass in a range of elevated hills between us and the plain of San
Fernando, or Couenga. Some forty or fifty mounted Californians
exhibited themselves on the summit of the pass during the afternoon.
They were doubtless a portion of the same party that we met several
days ago, just below San Buenaventura. A large number of cattle were
collected in the plain and corralled, to be driven along to-morrow for
subsistence. Distance 10 miles.
_January 11_.--The battalion this morning was divided into two parties;
the main body, on foot, marching over a ridge of hills to the right of
the road or trail; and the artillery, horses and baggage, with an
advance-guard and escort, marching by the direct route. We found the
pass narrow, and easily to be defended by brave and determined men
against a greatly superior force; but when we had mounted the summit of
the ridge there was no enemy, nor the sign of one, in sight. Descending
into a _canada_ on the other side, we halted until the main body came
up to us, and then the whole force was again reunited, and the march
continued.
Emerging from the hills, the advance party to which I was attached met
two Californians, bareheaded, riding in great haste. They stated that
they were from the mission of San Fernando; that the Californian forces
had met the American forces under the command of General Kearny and
Commodore Stockton, and had been defeated after two days' fighting; and
that the Americans had yesterday marched into Los Angeles. They
requested to be conducted immediately to Colonel Fremont, which request
was complied with. A little farther on we met a Frenchman, who stated
that he was the bearer of a letter from General Kearny, at Los Angeles,
to Colonel Fremont. He confirmed the statement we had just heard, and
was permitted to pass. Continuing our march, we entered the mission of
San Fernando at one o'clock, and in about two hours the main body
arrived, and the whole battalion encamped in the mission buildings.
The buildings and gardens belonging to this mission are in better
condition than those of any of these establishments I have seen. There
are two extensive gardens, surrounded by high walls; and a stroll
through them afforded a most delightful contrast from the usually
uncultivated landscape we have been travelling through for so long a
time. Here were brought together most of the fruits and many of the
plants of the temperate and tropical climates. Although not the season
of flowers, still the roses were in bloom. Oranges, lemons, figs, and
olives hung upon the trees, and the blood-red _tuna_, or prickly-pear,
looked very tempting. Among the plants I noticed the American aloe
(_argave Americana_), which is otherwise called _maguey_. From this
plant, when it attains maturity, a saccharine liquor is extracted,
which is manufactured into a beverage called _pulque_, and is much
prized by Mexicans. The season of grapes has passed, but there are
extensive vineyards at this mission. I drank, soon after my arrival, a
glass of red wine manufactured here, of a good quality.
The mission of San Fernando is situated at the head of an extensive and
very fertile plain, judging from the luxuriance of the grass and other
vegetation now springing up. I noticed in the granary from which our
horses were supplied with food many thousand bushels of corn. The ear
is smaller than that of the corn of the Southern States. It resembles
the maize cultivated in the Northern States, the kernel being hard and
polished. Large herds of cattle and sheep were grazing upon the plain
in sight of the mission.
_January 12_.--This morning two Californian officers, accompanied by
Tortaria Pico, who marched with us from San Luis Obispo, came to the
mission to treat for peace. A consultation was held and terms were
suggested, and, as I understand, partly agreed upon, but not concluded.
The officers left in the afternoon.
_January 13_.--We continued our march, and encamped near a deserted
rancho at the foot of Couenga plain. Soon after we halted, the
Californian peace-commissioners appeared, and the terms of peace and
capitulation were finally agreed upon and signed by the respective
parties. They were as follows:--
ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION,
Made and entered into at the Ranch of Couenga, this thirteenth day
of January, eighteen hundred and forty-seven, between P.B. Reading,
major; Louis McLane, junr., commanding 3rd Artillery; William H.
Russell, ordnance officer--commissioners appointed by J.C. Fremont,
Colonel United States Army, and Military Commandant of California;
and José Antonio Carillo, commandant esquadron; Augustin Olivera,
deputado--commissioners appointed by Don Andres Pico,
Commander-in-chief of the Californian forces under the Mexican flag.
Article 1st. The Commissioners on the part of the Californians agree
that their entire force shall, on presentation of themselves to
Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, deliver up their artillery and public
arms, and that they shall return peaceably to their homes,
conforming to the laws and regulations of the United States, and not
again take up arms during the war between the United States and
Mexico, but will assist and aid in placing the country in a state of
peace and tranquillity.
Art. 2nd. The Commissioners on the part of Lieutenant-Colonel
Fremont agree and bind themselves, on the fulfilment of the 1st
Article by the Californians, that they shall be guaranteed
protection of life and property, whether on parole or otherwise.
Article 3rd. That until a Treaty of Peace be made and signed between
the United States of North America and the Republic of Mexico, no
Californian or other Mexican citizen shall be bound to take the oath
of allegiance.
Article 4th. That any Californian or citizen of Mexico, desiring, is
permitted by this capitulation to leave the country without let or
hinderance.
Article 5th. That, in virtue of the aforesaid articles, equal rights
and privileges are vouchsafed to every citizen of California, as are
enjoyed by the citizens of the United States of North America.
Article 6th. All officers, citizens, foreigners or others, shall
receive the protection guaranteed by the 2nd Article.
Article 7th. This capitulation is intended to be no bar in effecting
such arrangements as may in future be in justice required by both
parties.
ADDITIONAL ARTICLE.
Ciudad de Los Angeles, Jan. 16th, 1847.
That the paroles of all officers, citizens and others, of the United
States, and naturalized citizens of Mexico, are by this foregoing
capitulation cancelled, and every condition of said paroles, from
and after this date, are of no further force and effect, and all
prisoners of both parties are hereby released.
P.B. READING, Maj. Cal'a. Battalion.
LOUIS McLANE, Com'd. Artillery.
WM. H. RUSSELL, Ordnance Officer.
JOSE ANTONIO CARILLO, Comd't. of Squadron.
AUGUSTIN OLIVERA, Deputado.
Approved,
J.C. FREMONT, Lieut.-Col. U.S. Army, and Military Commandant of
California.
ANDRES PICO, Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the National Forces
of California.
The next morning a brass howitzer was brought into camp, and delivered.
What other arms were given up I cannot say, for I saw none. Nor can I
speak as to the number of Californians who were in the field under the
command of Andres Pico when the articles of capitulation were signed,
for they were never in sight of us after we reached San Fernando.
Distance 12 miles.
_January 14_.--It commenced raining heavily this morning. Crossing a
ridge of hills, we entered the magnificent undulating plain surrounding
the city of Angels, now verdant with a carpet of fresh vegetation.
Among other plants I noticed the mustard, and an immense quantity of
the common pepper-grass of our gardens. We passed several warm springs
which throw up large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar. Urging our
jaded animals through the mud and water, which in places was very deep,
we reached the town about 3 o'clock.
A more miserably clad, wretchedly provided, and unprepossessing
military host, probably never entered a civilized city. In all, except
our order, deportment, and arms, we might have been mistaken for a
procession of tatterdemalions, or a tribe of Nomades from Tartary.
There were not many of us so fortunate as to have in our possession an
entire outside garment; and several were without hats or shoes, or a
complete covering to their bodies. But that we had at last reached the
terminus of a long and laborious march, attended with hardships,
exposure, and privation rarely suffered, was a matter of such heartfelt
congratulation, that these comparatively trifling inconveniences were
not thought of. Men never, probably, in the entire history of military
transactions, bore these privations with more fortitude or uttered
fewer complaints.
We had now arrived at the abode of the _celestials_, if the
interpretation of the name of the place could be considered as
indicative of the character of its population, and drenched with rain
and plastered with mud, we entered the "City of the Angels," and
marched through its principal street to our temporary quarters. We
found the town, as we expected, in the possession of the United States
naval and military forces under the command of Commodore Stockton and
General Kearny, who, after two engagements with six hundred mounted
Californians on the 8th and 9th, had marched into the city on the 10th.
The town was almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, and most of
the houses, except those belonging to foreigners, or occupied as
quarters for the troops, were closed. I met here many of the naval
officers whose agreeable acquaintance I had made at San Francisco.
Among others were Lieutenants Thompson, Hunter, Gray and Rhenshaw, and
Captain Zeilin of the marines, all of whom had marched from San Diego.
Distance 12 miles.