THE following excursion was undertaken for several reasons: the first of
which was, that though I had been many times in Paris before, yet I had
not once been there since the Revolution, and I was desirous of seeing
how far a residence of a few years in France might be practicable and
agreeable; secondly, a Counter-Revolution, or, at least, some violent
measures were expected, and I was willing to be there at the time, if
possible; and lastly, I wanted to examine the gardens near Paris.
I must here premise that I sent for a passport from the Secretary of
State's office, which I knew could do no harm if it did no good,
thinking I should have it for nothing, and obtained one signed by Lord
Grenville, but at the same time a demand was made for _two guineas and
sixpence_ for the fees; now, as I have had passports from almost all the
European nations, _all and every one_ of which were _gratis_, I sent the
pass back; it was however immediately returned to me, and I was told
that, "A passport is never issued from that office without that fee,
even if the party asking for it changes his mind." _I paid the money,
and that is all I shall say about the matter._
_Mr. Chauvelin_ (the minister from France) sent me his pass _gratis_;
those which I afterwards received in Paris from _Lord Gower_, and the
very essential one from _Mr. Petion_, were likewise _gratis_.
That of _Mr. Chauvelin_ has at the top a small engraving of three
_Fleurs de Lys_ between two oak branches, surmounted by a crown: at the
bottom is another small engraving, with his cypher F. C. it was dated
London, _17th_ July, 1792, 4th year of Liberty.
_No passport of any kind is necessary to enter France._ At Calais one
was given to me by the magistrates, mentioning my age, stature,
complexion, &c. and this would have been a sufficient permit for my
going out of France by sea or by land, if the disturbances in Paris, of
the 10th of August, had not happened.
I embarked at Dover on the 25th July, at one in the afternoon, and
landed at Calais after a pleasant passage of three hours and a half.
I immediately procured a national cockade, which was a silk ribband,
with blue, white, and red stripes; changed twenty guineas for forty
livres each, in paper, (the real value is not more than twenty-five
livres) hired a _cabriolet_, or two wheeled post-chaise of _Dessin_,
(which was to take me to Paris, and bring me back in a month) for three
_louis d'ors_ in money, bought a post-book, drank a bottle of Burgundy,
and set off directly for _Marquise_ (about fifteen miles) where I passed
the night.
The next day, 26th, I proceeded only to _Abbeville_, and it was ten at
night when I got there, because a gentleman in the chaise with me, and
another gentleman and his wife, who had not been in France before, and
who accompanied us all the way to Paris, wished to see Boulogne. We
accordingly walked round the ramparts, and then went on.
The 27th we remained a few hours at _Amiens_, and saw the cathedral and
the engine which supplies the city with water, called _La Tour d'Eau_.
We slept at _Breteuil_ which is a paltry town (_Bourg_.)
The 28th. We were five hours occupied in seeing _Chantilly_. This palace
is the most magnificent of any in Europe, not belonging to a sovereign.
In the cabinet of natural history, which has lately been very
considerably augmented, by the addition of that of _Mr. Valmont de
Bomare_ (who arranged the whole) I observed the _foetus_ of a whale,
about fourteen inches long, preserved in spirits; and the skin of a wolf
stuffed. I saw this identical wolf at _Montargis_, a palace beyond
_Fontainebleau_, in 1784, soon after it had been shot. The carp came, as
usual, to be fed by hand. Some of them are said to have been here above
a century. As to the gardens, they are well known; all that I shall say
is, that they do not contain a single curious tree, shrub, or flower. We
hired a landau, at the inn, to drive us about these gardens, and in the
evening proceeded to _St. Denis_, which is only a single post from
Paris, where we remained, as it would not have been so convenient to
seek for a lodging there at night.
The next day, Sunday 29th, early in the morning, we entered Paris, and
put up at the _Hôtel d'Espagne_, _Rue du Colombier_, and in the evening
went to the opera of _Corisandre_.