Start winding waxed tying silk (See Diagram 5, page 28) (A) about 1/8"
from the eye of the hook, take three or four turns towards the bend of
the hook and cut off end, Fig. 1, Diagram 5. Cut a section about 1/4"
wide from a right and one from a left wing feather, as Fig. A Diagram 4,
page 21 (duck wings are best for dry flies). Place convex sides together
(just the reverse of Fig. B, Diagram 4). Do not cut off the butt ends,
instead straddle the hook as Fig. 2, Diagram 5. Hold between the thumb
and finger of the left hand as already explained in Figs. 4 and 10,
Diagram 3, page 15. Tip the wings (B) forward so that they stand about
perpendicular to the shank, and pull down loop, Fig. 3, as explained in
Diagram 3, Fig. 4. Take one more turn with (A) around the wings (B) in
front as Fig. 4 and before loosening the grip with the left hand take
two turns around the hook close in back of the wings (B), Fig. 5. Next
pull the butt ends back tightly as Fig. 6, take two tight turns around
them with (A) and cut off on dotted line as Fig. 6. Cross (A) between
wings (B) to spread them, and wind tying silk (A) down shank of the hook
as Fig. 7.
{28}
[Illustration: Diagram 5. Page sized diagram showing drawings of dry fly
construction.]
{29}
[Illustration: Page sized photograph of Fan Wings, Dry Flies, and Nymphs
tied by the author.]
{30}
From now on the body is made as previously explained, so for the sake of
variation we will tie a band in the centre, the same as a Royal
Coachman. Tie in tail (C) Fig. 8. Tie in two or three strands of peacock
herl (D) Fig. 9 with (A) and wind (A) four or five turns towards the eye
of the hook. Take three or four turns with herl (D). Tie in two strands
of silk floss (E) Fig. 10, take a few more turns with (A) over the loose
ends of (D) towards the eye of the hook. Wind silk floss (E) over the
herl about half way up the hook. Take a turn or two around silk floss
(E) with (A) and cut off end of (E) as Fig. 11. Carry (A) up to the
front of the wings. Finish body with herl (D) wound tight against the
back of the wings. (This helps to push the wings forward and to hold
them in place.) Tie off herl (D) with (A) Fig. 12. The next step of
putting on the hackle (F) is done the same as Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page
21. But here the hackle is much more important than on the wet fly. The
floating qualities of a dry fly depend entirely upon stiff neck hackle
of the proper size. (Use Hackle Chart.) Sometimes two hackles are used,
these are laid together, and both butts tied in at the same time. One
hackle of the proper size and stiffness is usually enough, so we will
use one tied in as Fig. 13 and explained in Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page
21. Clip the hackle pliers to the tip of hackle (F) and wind
about two turns edgewise in front of the wings, wind two turns close
{31} in back of the wings. Take two or three more turns in front of the
wings, all the while keeping the hackle edgewise, with the shiny side
towards the eye of the hook. Wind the hackle close so as not to fill up
the eye of the hook and to leave room for the head. Tie in the tip with
a couple of turns of (A) Fig. 14. The hackle should now be standing
straight out from the hook, with the most of it in front of the wings.
Shape a tapered head with (A). (Head should be about 1/16" long on a
size 12 hook.) Finish with two or three half hitches and a drop
of head lacquer, Fig. 15.
Various feathers are used for wings of dry flies, such as breast
feathers from mallard, teal; partridge, grouse, black duck, wood duck.
Hackle tips, starling, duck, turkey, goose, pheasant, wing feathers,
etc.
Two whole feathers of the proper size, with the natural curve are used
for fan wings. The tips of two feathers, or a section may be cut from
two matched feathers. All of these wings are tied on in the same manner
as previously explained. See Diagram 2 for flies tied with different
style wings.
[Illustration: Drawing of hackle size chart at bottom of page.]
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NYMPHS AND THEIR
CONSTRUCTION