THE INTERIM AND SECOND TRIP.
The preceding chapter, "The End", was written more than eight years
ago. Readers will have noted the work of monumenting the Oregon Trail
was left unfinished, that only a beginning had been made, that the
seed had been planted from which greater results might reasonably
have been expected to follow; that though in one sense the work had
failed, nevertheless the effort had been fully justified by the results
obtained.
A great change has come over the minds of the American people in this
brief period of eight years. Numerous organizations have sprung into
existence for the betterment of Good Roads, for the perpetuation of
"The Old Trails" and the memory of those who wore them wide and deep.
It is without the province of this writing to give a history of these
various movements, and in any event space forbids undertaking the task.
Suffice it to say the widespread interest in the good roads movement
alone is shown by the introduction of sixty bills upon the subject
during the first month of the Sixty-fourth Congress—more than double
that introduced in any previous Congress. But we are now more concerned
to record a brief history of what happened to the "Overland Outfit"
since the so-called great trek ended.
[Illustration: At the Yukon Exposition, 1909.]
Dave and Dandy, after a few weeks of visiting, were put into winter
quarters in Seattle, where the admonition of the Israelite law, "Thou
shalt not muzzle the ox that treadeth out the corn", was observed and
both showed more fat on the ribs for the nearly three years of the
strenuous life on the road. The dog "Jim" had likewise fattened up
under a less strenuous life, but did not lose his watchful, faithful
care of things surrounding him, that had seemed to have become a sort
of second nature while on the trip. The owner of the "outfit", the
writer, soon became restless under enforced idleness and arranged to
participate in the Alaska Yukon Exposition held in Seattle during the
summer of 1909, for illustrating pioneer life in the cabin and feeding
the hungry multitude. Neither enterprise succeeded financially and the
"multitude" soon ate him out of "house and home", demonstrating he had
missed his calling by the disappearance of his accumulation, leaving
him the experience only, to be vividly felt, though mysterious as the
unseen air. To "lie down" and give up, to me was unthinkable. I had
contemplated a second trip over the Trail to add to what had been done
even if it was impossible to "finish up", but winter was approaching
and so a trip to the sunny climate of California was made to remain
until the winter 1909-10 had passed into history.
March 16, 1910, the start was made for a second trip over the old
Trail from The Dalles, Oregon. "Dave" by this time had become a
"seasoned ox" though had not yet worked out of him the unruly meanness
that seemed to cling to him almost to the last. "Dandy" was not a whit
behind him as an ox and kept his good nature for the whole trip before
him (which lasted nearly two years) and to the end of his life.
On this trip no effort was made to erect monuments, but more special
attention paid toward locating the Trail. Tracings of the township
survey through which the Trail was known to run were obtained at the
state capitals at Boise, Idaho; Cheyenne, Wyoming; Lincoln, Nebraska;
and Topeka, Kansas. The United States deputy surveyors of public
lands are instructed to note all roads or trails crossing section or
township lines. Here came "confusion worse confounded" by the numerous
notations, some appearing on several section lines in succession,
others on one line and then not again for many miles and, of course,
it was not known by the deputies which was the Oregon Trail, or which
was a later road or which was simply an old buffalo trail, and later
followed by the Indians.
If we could pick up a known point of the Oregon Trail noted on a
section line crossing and search for another even if many miles distant
and find it and get the general direction, I don't recall a single
failure to locate the intervening points. This, however, did not always
result in finding the visible marks on the ground, but the memory of
the old settlers would come in or an Indian might remember, and then
sometimes we would stumble on it before we knew where the mysterious
track lay. Once I remember finding two rods in length of the "old
trough" in a fence road crossing, where the traces in fields on both
sides had been cultivated, the road graded, and only this little spot
left undisturbed. Other places out on the plains were left undisturbed
by improvements. Nature had come in to it in parts and obliterated
the marks. Then again at other places the marks remained so plain one
might almost say it could be seen miles ahead, both wide and deep—200
feet wide in places where the sage had been killed out, and then again
in sandy points so deep one hesitates to tell fearing lest he may be
accused of exaggerating; but here goes: I did measure one point fifteen
feet deep and seventy-five feet wide.
In the sage lands there came points where one might say the Trail could
be identified by its "countenance", that is by the shade of color
of the sage growth, sometimes only a very light shade at that, yet
unmistakable where one had become accustomed to see it, like a familiar
face. To me this search became more and more interesting, and I may say
fascinating, and will remain a pleasant memory as long as I live.
It is not my purpose to give a detailed account of this second trip
beginning at The Dalles, Oregon, March 16, 1910, and ending at
Puyallup, Washington, August 26, 1912, twenty-nine months and ten days,
but only refer briefly, very briefly, to some experiences, a passing
notice only.
At San Antonio, Texas, we camped in the Alamo, adjoining to that
historic spot where David Crocket was killed. At Chicago the crowds
"jostled" us almost like the experience in New York three years before.
I crossed over the Loop Fork of Platte River, three-quarters of a mile
wide, in the wagon box under a moving picture camera to illustrate
the ways of the pioneers of the long ago. We encountered a veritable
cloudburst in the Rocky Mountains in which we very nearly lost the
outfit in the roaring torrent that followed, and did lose almost all
of my books and other effects. Later Dandy pulled off one of his shoes
in the mountain road and became so lame we were compelled to abandon
farther driving, then we shipped home. Then came the great misfortune
of losing Jim out of the car, and never got him back. Nevertheless,
I have no regrets to express and have many pleasant memories to bear
witness of the trip. All in all it was a more strenuous trip than
the drive to Washington and all things considered it was prolific in
results.
Part of the time I was alone; but I didn't mind that so much, except
for the extra work thrown upon me.
One more incident, this time a pleasant one:
One day as I was traveling leisurely along, suddenly there appeared
above the horizon veritable castles—castles in the air. It was a
mirage. I hadn't seen one for sixty years, but it flashed upon me
instantly what it was—the reflection of some weird pile of rocks so
common on the Plains. The shading changes constantly, reminding me of
the almost invisible changes of the northern lights, and it so riveted
my attention that I forgot all else until Jim's barking ahead of the
oxen recalled me to consciousness, as one might say, to discover Dave
and Dandy had wandered off the road, browsing and nipping a bit of
grass here and there. Jim knew something was going wrong and gave the
alarm. Verily the sagacity of the dog is akin to the intelligence of
man.
As just recorded, the second trip was ended. I had long contemplated
contributing the outfit for the perpetuation of history. It did not
take long to obtain an agreement with the city authorities at Tacoma
to take the ownership over and to provide a place for them. Before the
whole agreement was consummated the State of Washington assumed the
responsibility of preserving them in the State Historical Building,
where by the time this writing is in print the whole outfit will be
enclosed in a great glass case, fourteen feet by twenty-eight, in one
of the rooms of the new State Historical Building. The oxen, from the
hands of the taxidermist, look as natural as life, while standing with
the yoke on in front of the wagon, as so often seen when just ready for
a day's drive.
The wagon, typically a "Prairie Schooner" of "ye olden days" of the
pioneers, with its wooden axle, the linch pin and old-fashioned
"schooner bed", weather-beaten and scarred, would still be good for
another trip without showing wobbling wheels or screeching axle, as
when plenty of tar had not been used. Of this "screeching" the memory
of pioneers hark back to the time when the tar gave out and the
groaning inside the hub began with a voice comparable and as audible
as of a braying donkey, or the sharper tone of the filing of a saw. Is
it, or was it, worth while to preserve these old relics? Some say not.
I think it was. Taxidermists tell us, barring accidents and if properly
cared for, the oxen are virtually indestructible and that a thousand
years hence they may be seen in this present form by the generation
then inhabiting the earth, who may read a lesson as to what curious
kind of people lived in this the twentieth century of the Christian era.
A map of the old Trail nearly forty feet long has been made with
painstaking care, an outline of which will be painted on the inside of
the glass case. Nearly a hundred and fifty monuments, or thereabouts,
have been erected along the old landmark. Photographs of most of these
have been secured or eventually all will be. The plan is to number
these and display them on the glass with a corresponding number at the
particular point on the map where each belongs. These will doubtless
be added to as time goes on to complete the record of the greatest
trail of all history—where twenty thousand died in the conquering of
a continent, aside from the unknown number that fell by the resisting
hand of the native uncivilized savages. It's a pathetic story and but
few, very few, of the actors are left to tell the story.
THE OLD TRAILS.
I do not propose to write a history of the "Old Trails". That has been
done by painstaking historians, though it may be truly said that by no
means has the last word been written. There is, however, a field that
is to be hoped will soon be occupied, for the assembling of already
recorded facts in a "Child's History" in attractive form, to the end
the younger generation as they come on the stage of action may learn
to love the memory of the pioneers and the very tracks they trod.
Nothing will more surely build up a healthy patriotism in the breasts
of generations to follow than a study of the deeds of their forbears
that conquered the fair land they inhabit. Thus far, a brief history
has been given of the effort to erect granite monuments along the old
Trail. This of itself is a commendable, grand work, but by no means the
last word. Simple sentinel monuments, if we may so designate them, have
their value, but to be enduring should be of utility that will not only
serve as a reminder of the past but likewise attract the attention of
the greater number, the multitude that will become interested because
of their utility and more willing to lend a hand to their preservation
after once being created. This is why the pioneers have so persistently
clung to the design of a highway along the lines of the trails—once
a highway, say they, let them always be such as long as civilization
continues.
And so an appeal was made to Congress for renewing the memory of the
"Old Trails" by establishing a national highway from coast to coast, to
be known as "Pioneer Way".
PIONEER WAY.
64th Congress, First Session.—H. R. 9137.
IN THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES.
January 15, 1916.
Mr. Humphrey of Washington introduced the following bill; which
was referred to the Committee on Military Affairs and ordered to
be printed.
A BILL
_To survey and locate a military and post road from Saint Louis,
Missouri, to Olympia, Washington._
Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of
the United States of America in Congress assembled, That the
Secretary of War be, and is hereby, directed, to appoint a board
of two members, one of them being a United States Army engineer
and the other a civilian, to make a preliminary survey for a
military and post highway from Saint Louis, Missouri, to Olympia,
Washington, said military highway to follow the following route
as near as may be: From Saint Louis to Kansas City, Missouri,
following as near as may be the general route of what is commonly
known as the "Old Trail." From Kansas City, following the joint
Santa Fe and Oregon trails for about forty miles to the city of
Gardner, Kansas; thence following the general route of the Oregon
Trail to Topeka, Kansas, and from Topeka thence to the State line
of Nebraska; thence, following said trail, to the Platte River,
and thence along the most practical route near the right bank
of the said Platte River to a point where, in the judgment of
said board, they may decide as to the best point to cross said
river, said crossing to be below or at the junction of the north
and south forks of said river; thence, as near as may be, along
the left river bank of said North Platte River to the State line
of Wyoming; thence by the best general route to a point where
the Old Trail diverges from said river to the left bank of the
Sweetwater River near the landmark known as Independence Rock;
thence up Sweetwater River to a point where said Old Trail leaves
said river and ascends to the summit of the Rocky Mountains in
the South Pass, and thence to the nearby point known as Pacific
Springs; thence to Bear River Valley and the State line of Idaho;
thence down said valley to Soda Springs and to Pocatello, Idaho;
thence to American Falls, Idaho, and to the best crossing of the
Snake River; thence to and down the Boise Valley to Boise City,
Idaho; thence to recrossing of Snake River and to Huntington in
the State of Oregon; thence to La Grande, Oregon; thence over the
Blue Mountains to the city of The Dalles, Oregon; thence through
the Columbia River Gap to Vancouver on the right bank of the
Columbia River in the State of Washington; thence to the city of
Olympia, Washington; following generally the Old Oregon Trail
and other trails followed by the pioneers in going from Saint
Louis to Puget Sound, utilizing, wherever practicable, roads and
highways already existing.
Sec. 2. That said board shall report as to the cost, the location
of said highway, and the character of construction that they deem
advisable for such highway.
Sec. 3. That said board shall also take up with the State
authorities in the States through which the said road shall pass
and report what co-operation can be secured from such States in
the construction and maintenance of such road.
Sec. 4. That the board shall also report on the advisability
of employing the United States Army in the construction of any
portion of said road.
Sec. 5. That the name of said road shall be "Pioneer Way."
See. 6. That the sum of $75,000, or so much thereof as may be
necessary, be, and the same is hereby, appropriated out of any
money in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, for the purpose
of defraying the expense in connection with such survey.
"At the hearing before the House Committee on Military Affairs, H. R.
9137, A Bill 'To survey and locate a Military and Post Road from Saint
Louis, Missouri, to Olympia, Washington,' Ezra Meeker, of Seattle,
Washington, was called before the Committee and made an oral plea
favoring the passage of the bill and filed a statement, a copy of which
appears below":
The bill before you authorizing the locating and survey of a
great National Highway to be known as "Pioneer Way," as a tribute
to the memory of the pioneers, has a deeper significance than
that of sentiment, though fully justified from that motive alone.
It is well to remember that the possession of the Oregon
country hung in the balance for many years; that a number of
our statesmen of the Nineteenth Century, including Jefferson
himself, did not believe we should attempt to incorporate this
vast territory, the Oregon country, as a part of the United
States, Jefferson even going so far as advocating an independent
government in that, to him then, land of mystery.
Encouraged by these differences of opinion among our own people
and prompted by the hunger for territorial aggrandizement and
likewise spurred to action by the rich harvest of furs that
poured millions of pounds sterling into the coffers of the London
company, known as the Hudson Bay Company, the British government
tenaciously held its grip on the country and refused to give it
up until the pioneers, the home builders, boldly took possession,
refused any sort of a compromise and presented the alternative
of war or to be left in peaceable possession of their homes. It
is simply a record of history that this vanguard of bold, great
men and women hastened the final settlement of the contest and
it is believed by many to have been the determining factor that
compelled the British to withdraw.
It was a great event in the history of the United States, in fact
of the world's history, as otherwise the "Stony Mountains," as
Jefferson advocated, would have been the western limits of the
United States, and it requires no stretch of the imagination to
discern the far-reaching results that would have followed.
Although as I have said, justified in undertaking this great work
from sentiment alone, there are other potent factors that to some
may seem to be of greater importance and to which I wish to call
your attention.
The last decade has wrought great changes in world affairs by the
numerous discoveries and improvements; not the least of these
is the wonderful advance in the use of the "trackless" car now
progressing so rapidly. Pardon me for saying that in my belief
that any of you gentlemen that may live to be of my present age
will see a far greater improvement than has already been made—one
that staggers the imagination to grasp.
Having been born before the advent of railroads in the United
States (1830); witnessing the strides in civilization made
possible by this great factor, I can truly say that I believe
there is a far greater impending change before you from the
introduction of the trackless car than has followed the rail
car. This one feature alone, the government ownership (State
or National) of the road bed with private ownership of the car
will foster enterprise, build up character, promote independence
of spirit, change the tide of people from the cities "back to
the farm", now so important to the continued welfare of the
nation. The tremendous effect upon the development of the seven
States, through which this proposed highway will pass, can not
fail to serve as a great object lesson and encourage other great
interstate highways so necessary to the commercial development of
the country in time of peace and preparedness for defense in time
of war.
As to the latter, preparedness for war, I will speak presently,
but just now wish to call your attention to the influence upon
the material developments of the country, which in fact is a
measure of preparedness for defense or war. This measure, if you
will notice, provides for state co-operation in the building and
maintenance of this thoroughfare. This feature should not be lost
sight of. It is important, of vital importance may I not say. If
a given state will not join, the national government nevertheless
should build the road and restrict its use to military and postal
service, until such times as the state would enter into an
equitable agreement as to its cost and upkeep (which would not be
for long), for commercial use as well as for military and postal
purposes.
Now, as to preparedness for defense or for war to follow the
building of this great trunk line, military highway over the
Oregon Trail which would soon be followed east by the extension
on the old Cumberland road as such to Washington and, as
originally, to Philadelphia, thus creating the world's greatest
thoroughfare, is so patent, we need not occupy your time to
discuss, except as to the general principles of such a measure.
We can readily see how a small army may become more formidable
than a larger one where the means are at hand for speedy
mobilization. The great battle of the Marne, that saved Paris
from the horrors of a siege and probable destruction, was won by
the French by the sudden concentration of troops made possible by
the use of thousands of automobiles.
This object lesson should not be lost sight of and it should
be remembered that the road bed is the final word; in other
words, the usefulness of the automobiles is measured by the road
condition. It is without the province of this discussion to
advocate the measures, that is the extent of preparedness this
nation should undertake. There are millions of honest citizens
who believe there is no danger of an attack from a foreign foe
and hence no measure of preparedness is necessary, forgetting
that as far back as history records run, there has been war, wars
of conquest, religious wars, wars from jealousies or towering
ambitions, from causes so numerous, we tire to recite them and
that what has happened in the history of the thousands of years
that have passed, will happen in the cycle of time in the future.
Whatever may be the difference of opinion as to what measure of
defense we adopt, whether it shall be a large army or a large
navy, there should be none as to this proposed measure coupled
as it is with such other manifest benefits to follow, alone
sufficient to warrant the undertaking. I have been witness in
my short span of life of 85 years to four wars this nation has
been engaged in, all in measure without preparedness and all in
consequence resulting in frightful loss. We can't forget the
battle of Bladensburg, where over 8,000 raw troops, unprepared,
gave way before 4,000 trained that marched to Washington and
burned the Capitol and inflicted a humiliation that rancors to
this day in the breast of any American citizen with red blood in
his veins.
Shall we invite a like humiliation for the future? I say nay,
nay, and bear with me if I repeat again, nay, nay. I feel deeply
the solemnity of this duty that rests in your hands and pardon me
if I do speak with deep feeling.
Mind you, I am addressing you as to this particular feature of
preparedness.
Many of you gentlemen will doubtless remember that pathetic
address of Hon. Lloyd George in the House of Commons last
December, now known the world over as the "Too Late" appeal.
After a million lives had been lost and billions of pounds
sterling expended, this address fell like a thunderbolt upon the
ears of Parliament. He said, "Too late," emphasizing the words:
"We have been too late in this, too late in that, too late in
arriving at decision, too late in starting this enterprise or
that adventure. The footsteps of the Allies have been dogged by
the mocking spectre of too late."
Let not "Too late" be inscribed on the portals of our workshop.
It's a solemn warning this, that some day will come home in
disaster to this nation if we fail to take heed and profit by
the lessons from the experience of others as taught in these
outspoken words of agony, shall we not say, almost presaging the
downfall of a great nation.
I am not an alarmist, not a pessimist, but, gentlemen, we should
not ignore plain facts. There is a disturbing question on the
Pacific Coast that we should heed. A vast population to the West
is clamoring to enter the United States whom we are unwilling to
receive as citizens and who would refuse to accept citizenship.
You will remember the tension of but a few months ago. Some day
the bands of friendship will snap and light the flames of war.
Do you remember the utter failure—breakdown shall I not say—of
the railroads during the war with Spain? What if this condition
covered 3,000 miles instead of but a few hundred? With bridges
destroyed by spies, trains derailed, railroads blockaded, it
requires no stretch of the imagination to know what would happen.
Provide this roadbed, and hundreds of thousands of trackless
cars would appear on the scene and supply transportation for the
speedy transfer of troops and as like in the battle of the Marne
referred to, would decide the fortune of the day.
Bear with me for a moment longer, please. I may have spoken
with too much zeal, too much earnestness, too much feeling,
but I look upon the action to be taken by this committee as of
great importance. We pioneers yearn to have this work begun
because of the intense desire to perpetuate the memory of the
past and believe it of great importance to the rising generation
in implanting this memory in the breasts of the future rulers
of the nation and of sowing the seeds of patriotism, but of
transcendant importance, as you will perceive from what I have
said, is the beginning of this work and carrying it to a speedy
finish, as a measure of preparedness for defense or war. Let
not the responsibility of "Too late" rest upon your shoulders,
but speedily pass this bill to the end a report may reach this
Congress in time for action before the year ends.