INTO MOROCCO

The transatlantic steamers, that every season bear so many of our

fellow-countrymen from our own shores directly to the ports of Italy,

pass, as all travelers know, through the Gibraltar Straits. Those who

have sailed this course undoubtedly recall with a thrill of pleasure the

morning when, after eight days upon the broad Atlantic, they waked to

find on either hand the shores of a great continent,—the hills of Spain

upon the north, and opposite, the grim forbidding mountains of Morocco.

They will recall, as well, those two gigantic rocky promontories which

guard the western entrance to the Mediterranean,—those historic Pillars

of Hercules called by the ancients Calpe and Abyla,—the rocks that for

the men of that time marked the extreme western boundary of the known

world.

For centuries Calpe and Abyla, sea-girt mountains torn asunder by some

god of might, were looked upon as the very ends of the earth. Beyond

them no man dared venture.

[Illustration: GIBRALTAR]

Calpe is now the famous fortress of Gibraltar, a bit of Spain held by

the British Empire. Abyla, upon the shore of Africa, is now the penal

colony Ceuta, a piece of Moorish territory, conquered and held by force

of Spanish arms. At the bases of these two mighty cliffs the waters of

two oceans mingle; for there the wide Atlantic, the waterway of the new

world, touches the historic inland ocean, around the shores of which are

grouped the nations that have ruled the world in ages past. The narrow

channel that links the seas together serves also to separate two lands

so widely dissimilar that nowhere in the world may the traveler, with

so little effort, enjoy a greater shock of contrast than by crossing

the Gibraltar Strait from Southern Spain to Tangier, in Morocco.

[Illustration: CAPE SPARTEL LIGHT

(By Permission)]

In the space of a few short hours he may there go back a thousand years;

pass from to-day to a mysterious yesterday, strangely remote from us in

life and thought. Within sight of the shores of Europe, within sight of

the Spanish railway stations, within sound of the cannon of Gibraltar,

he will find a land in which there are no roads of any sort, a people

who still use in war the picturesque Arabian flintlock and the clumsy

yataghan; he will find a remnant of the Middle Ages, so perfectly

preserved by the peculiar embalming influence of the Mohammedan religion

that the Morocco of to-day differs little from the Morocco of the year

one thousand.

[Illustration: A CITY LIKE A DRIFT OF SNOW]

One of the most keenly relished moments of my life was the moment when

that tiny patch of white, at first so like a drift of snow on the distant

Moorish hills, finally resolved itself into a city of strange African

aspect, and our ship dropped anchor in what the Moors are pleased to

call the _harbor_ of Tangier. At last we are about to touch the shore

of the strangest, most inaccessible, and most mysterious land that

borders on the Mediterranean. Algeria and Tunis have been modernized

by France; railways transport pilgrims to and from the Holy Sepulcher

in Palestine; Egypt is but an Anglo-Saxon playground; Greece also has

her roads of steel, her daily papers, and her parliament. But Morocco

remains unique. Isolated from the world of to-day, and—thanks to that

isolation—completely independent, the Empire of the Moorish Sultan has

preserved the customs and traditions of its past, untouched by modern

civilization, unchanged by European influence. The land is to-day as it

was, and as it shall be—at least until it be conquered by the infidel,

and the throne of the descendants of the Prophet be overthrown by the

enemies of Allah.

[Illustration: CORSAIRS OF TO-DAY]

Meantime, the contemporary devotees of Allah have taken cognizance

of our arrival. Lighters are quickly manned, and we are treated to an

excellent representation of the manner in which Christian ships were

boarded and pillaged by Barbary pirates, in the day when the Corsairs

ruled the sea, and all Christendom paid forced tribute to the Sultans,

Deys, and Bashas of the Barbary States. A horde of turbaned porters and

guides overrun the decks, seize indiscriminately all visible handbags,

bundles, and boxes, and toss them, yelling madly all the while, into the

boats which rise and fall alongside as the huge swells from the Atlantic

glide swiftly underneath our ship. Emulating wise and pious Moslems, we

decide to trust in Allah for the recovery of our belongings in due time;

and, while the battle of the baggage rages, we turn our attention to a

neighboring cattle-ship, where the embarkation of its bovine passengers is

proceeding with much celerity and considerable discomfort to the unhappy

creatures. The horns of each steer are bound with rope; a hook descends,

is engaged in the loops; the donkey-engine snorts, and skyward go the

astonished steers, two at a time, in attitudes painfully undignified.

But painful as is this rise in beef, the worst is still to come. To land

the animal in the proper place upon the deck, fearless Arabs seize his

tail, and by a series of vigorous yanks and twists cause the suffering

creature to alight with his nose pointed toward the pen in which he may

leisurely readjust his elongated carcass, recover from his undisguised

indignation, and console himself by watching the precipitate arrival of

some other steer with whom he may have had unfriendly relations on the

Moorish plains. Thus it is that hundreds of head of Moorish cattle begin

their fatal voyage across the strait; for vast quantities of Moroccan

beef go to feed the lean and hungry Spaniard, or to supply the brawn

and muscle of Gibraltar's sturdy English garrison.

[Illustration: PIRATES OR PORTERS]

[Illustration: A RISE IN BEEF]

Having witnessed the acme of this cruelty, we observe with comparative

unconcern the unceremonious manner in which the animals are persuaded to

enter the lighters. A yelling band of Arabs and negroes boost and shove

the resisting brute up the gangplank and tumble him head foremost into

an already crowded boat, where he regains his feet as best he may. The

thuds of falling bodies, the wild cries of the savage workers, continue

until, the cargo complete, the craft puts off.

[Illustration: A TAIL OF WOE]

Looking around we find that we have neared the beach, above which rise

the frowning walls of old Tangier. Formerly all passengers landed on the

beach, and in rough weather the arrival of a tourist party was a diverting

spectacle, the frightened passengers being carried from the tossing

rowboats to the sandy beach upon the broad backs of native porters.

These porters are invariably Jews, for we are given to understand that

no self-respecting Moslem would bend his back to so vile a burden as the

carcass of a "Christian dog." We almost regret the tameness of our own

arrival, for, thanks to a comparatively calm sea, our boats are able to

approach the little pier, and to land us without danger or discomfort

save that occasioned by the pressing curiosity of the crowd assembled

to watch the coming of the money-spending infidel.

[Illustration: PERSUASIVE METHODS]

[Illustration: THE BEACH]

[Illustration: THE PIER]

[Illustration: THE HARBOR OF TANGIER]

The pier, by the way, represents the one harbor-improvement grudgingly

executed by the Moors. The harbor of Tangier could be made most secure at

small expense, but the Moors prefer not to tamper with it. "God made it

so," they tell us; "we would not presume to alter the wise arrangements

of the Almighty." They did not even attempt to repair the old breakwater

built by the English years ago and blown up by them upon the close

of the brief British occupation. The mention of a British occupation

recalls a bit of history. Tangier was taken by the Portuguese in 1471.

By them it was held until a Portuguese princess, Catarina of Braganza,

went to England as the bride of Charles the Second. She brought to him a

splendid dower, including two then unimportant pieces of real estate,—the

island of Bombay in far-off India, and this city of Tangier at the

Mediterranean's western gate. Strange indeed the fate of these two bits

of real estate. Bombay, the hopeless, far-away possession, became in

time the glorious Indian Empire. Tangier, with its unrivaled situation

at one of the great doorways of the western world, was held for twenty

years, and then, through sheer stupidity, abandoned to barbarism. It was

returned by England to the Moors as a free gift; a transaction almost

unique in Britain's history. But we must not forget that Gibraltar was

not yet a cushion for the British lion's paw; had it been so, another

paw would have rested firmly on this Moorish shore, insuring to England

absolute control of the Gibraltar Strait.

[Illustration: THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL]

But if the Anglo-Saxon armies long since relinquished this invaluable

prize, the Anglo-Saxon tourist has made Tangier his own. Having passed

the solemn Moors who sit at the water-gate at receipt of custom, we find

ourselves in a trough-like passage above which rises that stronghold of

the globe-trotter, the Continental Hotel. It appears like a huge grin

upon the frowning face of the walled city; and its hospitable and cheery

aspect contradicts the hostile impression produced by the cannon on the

ramparts and the scowling looks of some of the inhabitants.

Let not the tourist be disappointed because a modern structure first

obtrudes itself. Tangier is not the real Morocco; it is a Moslem seaport,

defiled by contact with an infidel world.

[Illustration: THE HILLS OF SPAIN ARE SEEN ACROSS THE STRAITS]

[Illustration: A CROWD OF MENDICANTS]

The late Sultan of Morocco disowned the city. When last he came and

beheld the changes wrought by foreigners, it is said that he exclaimed:

"Allah confound these greedy Christians!—they have stolen from me my

beautiful Tangier!"

[Illustration: PENNIES FOR THE POOR]

[Illustration: AFTER TASTING GOVERNMENTAL GENEROSITY]

The crowd we see near yonder doorway is gathered by a distribution

of pennies to the poor,—an act of charity performed every week by

the officials of the custom-house. How superbly important seems the

white robed Moor charged with the graceful task of pressing into every

outstretched dirty palm a shining Spanish copper worth about two cents,

while his assistant keeps his eyes well open to detect repeaters. Every

now and then there is a lively row, resulting from the detection of some

clever unfortunate, who has changed rags with a fellow pauper, and has

complacently applied for a second dose of governmental generosity. Utter

poverty and black misery are depicted upon the rags and visages of the

expectant throng—even the babies wear oldish, knowing expressions on their

little faces. A strange feature is the curious little pigtail worn by

the boys,—a pigtail growing all awry, sprouting, not from the crown, but

from one side of the head. The pigtail is an agent of salvation; on it

depends the hope of heaven; for we are told that at the day of judgment

Allah is to lift the righteous faithful by their pigtails into paradise.

Apropos of this statement and other statements heard in the course of

our journey, it may be well to quote an Arab maxim: "Never believe all

you hear; for he who believes all he hears often will believe that which

is not." Another maxim from the same source contains excellent advice

for the traveler, and much comfort for the lazy: "Do not do all that you

can; for he who does all he can, often will do that which he should not."

Another is a pearl of great price to the returned traveler especially:

"Do not say all you know; for he who says all he knows often will say

that which he knows not." There is yet a fourth gem of Arabian wisdom

with a similar setting: "Do not spend all you have; for he who spends

all he hath, often will spend that which he hath not."

[Illustration: COMRADES IN POVERTY]

The arrival in Tangier is unlike that in any other city in the world.

Every native face is a type, every group a picture. We begin to love

the dirt, the smells (not all bad ones, by any means, merely strange

foreign smells suggestive of what is old and Oriental), and as we make

our way into the perplexing maze of Tangier's weird little alleys, we

seem to have taken a journey backward through the ages. Our sensations

might be those of one suddenly transported from this familiar earth to a

strange planet; and yet the hills of Spain are seen across the straits.

A group of water-carriers earnestly discussing some important piece of

news that probably will never be published to the Christian world, forms

a picture almost Biblical in its antiquity. They are retailers of that

precious beverage,—the beverage of all the worshipers of Allah,—the

true gift of God, pure water. We can forgive the Moslem many things,

because he never has been, and, so long as he clings to the religion of

his fathers, never will be, a drunkard. The water-bags are goat-skins,

the hind leg serving as a faucet; but although we are as thirsty as the

African sun itself, we do not patronize these itinerant fountains; being

newly come to Tangier, our squeamishness interferes with an indulgence

in many little comforts; but what a surprising revolution will be worked

by an expedition into Morocco! We shall return from the interior with

adamantine sensibilities as regards such trifles. But to-day we are

open to impressions of all kinds. So dazed are we by the strangeness

of our surroundings that we have left no words with which to express

our delight when, stepping out at last upon the balcony of our hotel,

we look down upon Tangier, the "White City of the Straits." Below us

is the beach, dotted with the rude camps of pilgrims who are awaiting

ships for Mecca; above it are tiers of batteries; beyond we see a mass

of white cubes, the dwelling-houses of the Moors. A dainty minaret,

green-tiled and graceful, rises from this angular snow-bank; near it,

the flags of foreign nations float above their respective consulates

and legations. Strange indeed this mingling of the Occidental and the

Oriental, beautiful indeed this city of Tangier, the sentinel city of

Morocco, posted here at the corner of Africa to watch with jealous eyes

for the coming of the inevitable conqueror who is to sally forth from

the gates of Christendom, dimly discerned across the Gibraltar Channel.

Of small account will be these batteries, furnished with antiquated

cannon. These crippled dogs of war rend nothing more tangible than air,

and damage nothing but ear-drums. And frequently is the air rent, and

the ear assaulted, for the arrival of every man-of-war is greeted with

a ferocious salvo of artillery, at sound of which the Moors gaze proudly

seaward, expand their chests, recall the days when Moorish corsairs ruled

the seas, and dream of future victories for the armies of the Prophet.

[Illustration: WATER CARRIERS]

The sunshine in this land is wonderful; at seven in the morning it is so

brilliant that we cannot bear the reflection from the chalky housetops,

and recover the use of our eyesight only when in the dark and narrow

corridors that serve the Tangerines in lieu of streets. The thoroughfare

which every visitor must traverse when going from the hotel to the

great or lesser market-places, is distinctly banal in aspect. It is the

leading shopping street of the European residents; its shops are stuffed

with canned provisions, patent-medicines, and playing-cards, while a

saloon or two make known their presence, even to the blind, by strong

gin-like aromas wafted thence. When lost in the labyrinthine maze of

Moorish Tangier, the foreigner has but to follow his nose to reach the

place where rum and brandy are on sale, and European civilization well

in evidence. Then he may emerge into the lesser market-place, or "Soko,"

as it is called in local speech. Here he finds one tiny French cafe

and the postal stations of England, Spain, and France; for as Morocco's

postal-service is on a par with its other governmental enterprises, these

nations each maintain post-offices in Tangier and an elaborate courier

service in the interior. European mails now penetrate to Fez, even to

Mequinez and Morocco City, with tolerable dispatch and certainty.

[Illustration: TANGIER]

[Illustration: THE WHITE CITY OF THE STRAITS]

[Illustration: THE STREET OF EUROPEAN SHOPS]

While we refresh ourselves at the cafe, we are amused by the ape-like

antics of a negro from the far-away province of Suss. His wig of wool is

hung with shells and teeth and nails, all of which clatter as he dances

to the music of a pair of iron castanets.

But he cannot compare in picturesqueness with this other visitor—a superb

representative of the saintly beggar class. So imposing a revelation of

dignity in rags it is not possible to find among men of any other race or

creed. We learn that this haughty mendicant is crazy; that in Morocco,

insanity is the most valuable asset of those who desire to engage in

what European residents irreverently term the "saint business." The

Moors are convinced that if the mind of a man inhabit not his body, it

is because God, having discerned in that mind much beauty of holiness,

retains it in paradise as a thing too precious to be sent with the man

to earth. Therefore great consideration should be shown for the mortal

coil pertaining to that mind. Thus "crazy" has become a synonym for

"sanctified," and an insane man has but to mumble prayers, and watch

his saner fellow-citizens vie with one another in propitiating him with

gifts and offerings. But sometimes this insanity is only feigned, and

some of these weird characters are in reality agents of the militant

Moslem brotherhoods of Tripoli and Tunis, charged with the spreading of

a Mohammedan propaganda and the keeping alive of bitter anti-Christian

agitation.

[Illustration: THE CAFE IN THE LITTLE SOKO]

[Illustration: A... SINGING NEGRO FROM THE SUSS]

If we follow this splendid _miserable_, we shall presently lose sight of

him in the confusion of the be-draped, be-hooded crowd surging through

the upper gate that opens toward the greater market-place, or "Soko," on

the high ground behind the city. The women are closely veiled and buried

in the smothering folds of the white woolen "haik." All rich men wear

the colored caftan, or the white burnoose, and some are draped in muslin

veils; the poor men wear the rough brown jelaba, a sack-like garment

with a pointed hood. On feet that are not bare are yellow slippers; on

the heads, a red fez, a white turban, or a monkish-looking hood.

[Illustration: DIGNITY IN RAGS]

[Illustration: A SPLENDID "MISERABLE"]

The Soko on Thursday or on Sunday (local market-days) is a sight to be

remembered. The market-place itself is, literally, out of sight; during

the night and early morning, living things, from men to mules, from

women to camels, and things inanimate, from eggs to beef and mutton, from

oats to olive oil, have been gathered together, spread out, heaped up,

forming a mass that moves and gives forth cries and odors. Twice every

week the sun looks down upon a scene like this. Here in the Soko is

the true frontier between the Christian and the Moslem worlds. Here is

the borderland of the real Africa; here couriers from Fez and from the

desert region farther south meet the postmen of the European provinces;

here surges the murky tide of African humanity; here breaks the last

sun-crested wave of continental civilization; here top-hats and turbans

mingle; here Europe ends and Africa begins.

[Illustration: THE BE-DRAPED, BE-HOODED CROWD]

From the windows of the legation of a European nation which open upon

the Soko, there are wafted lively measures of piano melody; and these

are almost drowned by the prayers of beggars, the vociferations of the

trading throng, and the incantations of half-crazy conjurors. Conquering

our first emotion of aversion, almost of fear, we press through the

ill-smelling, yelling crowd, and work our way to the front rank of a

magician's audience. The conjuror welcomes us with curses, and refuses

to continue his performance until our cameras have been lowered, and

our offering of money has been cast into the ring of spectators. Then,

muttering strange prayers, he gathers from the ground a handful of straw,

calls on his god, and on the generosity of the onlookers, and blowing upon

the straw causes it miraculously to burst into flames, which instantly

consume it. More offerings are then demanded, more prayers are said, and

more unflattering remarks are made concerning us; for to curse and to

insult a Christian is a pious deed. Another trick is performed: A youth

is (supposedly) hypnotized, and while he seems unconscious, a long bodkin

is thrust through the flesh of his throat and the ends left protruding,

while the old fakir takes up the most successful collection of the

afternoon. Because we do not give more silver coins instead of Moorish

coppers, the holy wonder-worker exhausts his stock of anti-Christian

expletives, much to the edification of his sympathetic congregation.

So great is the hatred of Christians on the part of the lower classes

that even the beggars return curses instead of thanks, atoning for the

sin of receiving unclean Christian money by calling down the wrath of

heaven, not only upon our heads, but also upon the heads of all who are

dear to us, or related to us, even unto the fourth and fifth generation

of those who have preceded us and are responsible for our existence.

One simple and popular anathema is, "May Allah burn your grandmother!"

Another expresses the wish that the wife of your great-grandfather may

enjoy perpetual torridity in the nether world.

[Illustration: THE BORDERLAND OF THE REAL AFRICA]

[Illustration: THE SOKO ON SUNDAY]

[Illustration: A CURSING CONJUROR]

The blind mendicants beg in little companies of six or eight. One

sightless horrible, standing, cries aloud for charity in the name of

his companions. These are not pleasant sights, but no true impression

of Tangier can be imparted if we leave out of the picture the rags, the

beggars, and the dirt. One more sad spectacle must suffice—that of an

old beggar, shriveled by age, baked by the cruel sun, bent beneath the

burden of many hopeless years, not even clad in rags, but merely covered

with a mat of straw—a superlative expression of Moroccan misery.

[Illustration: "MAY ALLAH BURN YOUR GRANDMOTHER!"]

[Illustration: HYPNOTIZED!]

[Illustration: A PETTY TRANSACTION]

[Illustration: MOROCCAN MISERY]

Here we may recall the story of the English clergyman, who, touched

at the sight of all this misery and ignorance, resolved to tell the

gospel-story to the people of Tangier—to make a public exhortation in

the market-place. With the greatest difficulty he secured a capable

interpreter, for most of the hotel guides feared to assist him in his

rash and dangerous crusade. When the pious preacher began his sermon in

the market-place, he was not only surprised, but thoroughly delighted

at the reverence with which his glowing words, translated by his guide,

were received by the attentive throng of Moslems. When he had finished,

he was even urged to speak again. Undoubtedly the good man carried away

a soul filled with joy because of the good seed he had planted here. One

English newspaper chronicled the marked interest shown by the heathen

in the words of Christian truth; but it is to be hoped that the good

man will never learn that while he stood in the center of this meeting

place and spoke, his diplomatic interpreter and guide not only held the

respectful ears of the crowd, but possibly saved the missionary's life

by cleverly turning the orthodox sermon into one of the favorite romances

from the "Arabian Nights."

[Illustration: A SYNDICATE OF BLIND BEGGARS]

[Illustration: MOSLEM SALVATIONISTS]

No, it is virtually impossible to turn the Moslem from the faith of his

fathers. His religion forms too intimate a part of his daily life; his

religious fasts and festivals are observed with a strictness that is

absolute. We chanced to witness the celebration of the great feast called

Aid-el-Kebir. The early morning finds us on a hillside near the market,

where there is gathered a multitude of spectral forms. Here the slanting

rays of the newly risen sun draw out all shadows to a grotesque length,

while from the midst of the assemblage there bursts a cloud of smoke

which like a veil conceals the wild tribesmen who are there performing a

fantastic powder-play with old-fashioned noisy flintlocks. An hour later

the populace repairs to the high-walled garden of a suburban mosque to

witness the sacrifice of a magnificent ram. The ram, however, is not

allowed to die in peace, for according to an ancient custom its bleeding

body must be borne swiftly down through the city streets to the great

mosque in the lower town, where, if it arrives living, the omen for

the year is pronounced good; if dead, the wise men shake their heads

and prophesy disaster. Hence are the swiftest runners employed to dash

with the dying burden across the Soko, into the city gates, down abrupt

alleys to the other sanctuary. Like a host of madmen they rush past us,

the sheep slung in a basket dragged by four men. Thrice do the bearers

stumble, thrice is the bleeding mass rolled in the dust, thrice is the

mad race resumed, the people urging on the panting runners with cries,

and sticks, and stones. The sacrificial ram is dead upon arriving at the

mosque, yet it is given out by the authorities that it was still alive.

The disorderly mob disappears through the arched portals of the town,

and a dignified procession crosses the Soko. The Basha, or Governor,

of the province of Tangier, with his mounted escort, is returning from

the recent ceremony. Although his salary is only seventy-five dollars a

month, this wise official, by strict economy, has grown very rich. He,

like all the swells, rides a handsome mule; for in Morocco mules enjoy

much favor and are preferred to horses for long journeys and for city

promenades; in fact, for everything, save battle.

[Illustration: GATHERING TO CELEBRATE THE "GREAT FEAST"

(Photograph by Mr. White, of Tangier)]

[Illustration: NEAR THE SUBURBAN MOSQUE]

[Illustration: THE BASHA OF TANGIER]

A feast is held in every house upon this sacred day, a sheep being

sacrificed for each adult member of the family. We see many a woolly

burden carried through the streets upon the shoulders of the purchaser.

Other means also are employed for the successful home-bringing of the

fatted creatures. One man will attempt to drag the balky ram by the

horns; another, more clever, will seize the hind feet and shove the sheep

along as one would push a wheelbarrow, the result being a wildly zigzag

progress down the steep, narrow streets. Throughout the entire Moslem

world this day of Aid-el-Kebir is celebrated. At Mecca, the fountain-head

of the Moslem faith, a hundred and twenty thousand sheep are put to the

knife at each recurrence of the festival. Even in Tangier the feast may

be likened to an ovine Saint Bartholomew Massacre, a day as fatal to

these woolly victims as is Thanksgiving day to the devoted gobblers of

New England. The city becomes a mammoth butcher-shop; the gutters in the

narrow streets run red with blood. To escape these little tragedies, we

make our way up to the higher regions of the town, where the Palace of

the Governor, the Treasury Building, and the Prison are found in close

proximity to one another. We find the palace inaccessible, the treasury

empty, and the prison full.

[Illustration: AN OVINE SAINT BARTHOLOMEW]

[Illustration: THE SACRIFICIAL RAM]

The prison externally is a blank, white structure, high and in sad want

of repair. We enter a small vestibule, where several lazy guards are

stationed; they indicate an opening in the wall, a window, protected by

heavy bars and closed by a thick metal shutter. This, they say, is the

unique means of ingress to the prison. No means of egress is required,

for prisoners seldom come thence alive. A hasty glance through a round

hole in the metal shutter reveals a filthy, spacious hall, crowded with

animated mummies loosely wrapped in earth-colored tatters. We are told

that no food is furnished to the prisoners save that which may be brought

by pitying outsiders, friends of the unfortunates within. The government

allows its victims the one privilege of reaching out through the little

aperture for the bread of pity. Some of the prisoners make colored

baskets, like those which hang upon the wall, and eke out an existence

by the sale of these. The presence of a traveler becoming known in the

den, baskets by the dozen come tumbling out to tempt him in charity to

buy.

[Illustration: THE ONLY DOORWAY TO THE PRISON]

[Illustration: THE PRISON]

While it is difficult for a man to get out of the prison, it is absolutely

impossible for a man to enter the harem of the neighboring palace of the

Basha; but foreign women are sometimes presented to the Basha's wives. One

feminine visitor reports that the mysterious beauties examined carefully

the details of her dress. "Oh," said one to another, as she discovered

that the white hands were gloved, "see!—the American lady has two skins

upon her hands!" In reply to a question as to what little present might

be welcome, one Oriental matron replied with much enthusiasm, "Ah, send

us from your country some of those pretty little combs with the fine

teeth—they are so much more useful than our coarse ones, and—we need

them very much!"

[Illustration: THE BASHA'S PALACE AND THE TREASURY]

[Illustration: AT THE U. S. CONSULATE-GENERAL]

Leaving the inhospitable palace, we descend to the one building of all

Tangier, in which we are certain to receive a cordial welcome. The shield

of the United States Consulate-General dispels the Moorish gloom of at

least one dim thoroughfare. Here in this land of despotism and darkness

it shines forth like a symbol of liberty and light. The Consul-General,

Dr. J. J. Barclay, tells us with justifiable pride that his grandfather,

the Hon. Thos. Barclay, negotiated the first treaty between the United

States and the Empire of Morocco. He shows us two interesting documents;

one, the Consular Commission signed by George Washington; the other,

the Exequatur granted by the Sultan to the first Consul of the young

American Republic. The following is a translation of the Exequatur, made

by the official interpreter of the Consulate-General:

"In the name of God, the Clement and Merciful. There is no strength

or force but in God, the High and Eternal. From Abdallah Mohammed, Ben

Abdallah, in whom the Almighty deposited his confidence."

[Illustration: IMPERIAL SEAL]

"To the great President of the American States: I salute you with

empressment, and hope in God you are well. The Ambassador, Thomas Barclay,

has come to us bearing a precious letter from the Spaniard Charles. We

have read it, and we understand all its contents in which you asked us

peace with you like the other Christian nations with whom you have made

peace. We accept your demand, and peace be between us on land and sea,

and according to the Treaties you demanded from us. We have written this

in our letter to you, to which I affixed my Sheriffian seal, and we

have ordered all our employees in my seaports to do with your vessels

and merchandise that go to my seaports, as they do with those of the

Spaniards, and your vessels can enter, and anchor with safety in any

of my seaports you choose, from Tetuan to Wadnoon; they can also buy

and sell, and do business for themselves, and they can depart. We have

answered just like this to the great Spaniard Charles, who wrote me a

letter on your behalf. I join with you in perfect peace and friendship.

In peace.

"This is written the first day of the blessed month of Ramadan 1200

(1785-1786)."

[Illustration: AN AMERICAN HOUSE IN TANGIER]

[Illustration: COMMISSION OF CONSUL THOMAS BARCLAY SIGNED BY GEORGE

WASHINGTON]

To Dr. Barclay we confided our cherished plans for a journey into Morocco,

and asked him to advise, assist, and guide us. He became most zealous

in our cause; made light of the difficulty and danger said to attend the

journey, spoke in glowing terms of the pleasures and surprises in store

for us. Within the week all the formalities incident to our departure

are complied with. The Moorish Minister of Foreign Affairs has graciously

granted us permission to traverse the Empire of his Master, the Sultan of

Morocco, and he has provided us with letters to many provincial chiefs,

and to the Governor of Fez, the capital. He has promised us a military

escort equal to our needs, and has called down blessings upon us, and

has accepted the usual little token of our high esteem in the form of

a pile of Spanish dollars. All this we owed to the good offices of Dr.

Barclay, to whom also we owed a delightful glimpse of the gay social

life led by the foreign residents and diplomats in old Tangier.

[Illustration: EXEQUATUR OF THE FIRST U. S. CONSUL TO TANGIER]

The hillsides round about the city are dotted with luxurious, palatial

villas, in the drawing-rooms of which cosmopolitan gatherings discuss

the latest continental news in half a dozen languages. According to an

English dictum, "Society in Tangier is split into three factions,—those

who will know one another, those who won't know one another, and those

who must know one another, but don't like to." There are artists,

musicians, and diplomats, millionaires and globe-trotters, and ex-consuls

and ex-ministers by the dozen; for they say that when one has lived in

Tangier, it is not possible to be contented elsewhere. Therefore many men

who come hither for a few years of diplomatic service, end by purchasing

hillside villas and becoming permanent residents.

[Illustration: A LAST LOOK AT TANGIER]

Tangerine hospitality is famous for its freedom, but we have little time

for social dissipations. Every moment is occupied in preparations for

departure. A few days more and we are to leave this most attractive corner

of Cosmopolis, bid farewell to friends, to comfort, and to civilization.

The hotel will give place to the tent, the daily pony-canter on the beach

to the long weary marches of our caravan over hills and mountains, in the

region where there are no roads, where to-day is the same as yesterday.

We are to voyage forth upon a strange expanse, where the ship of Moorish

civilization, stranded upon the shoals of the religion of immutability,

has lain rotting since the conquest of Granada.

It is but right that you should know something about the men upon whom

our future comfort, welfare, and safety entirely depend. Let me introduce,

first of all, the most faithful of guides, the most honest of dragomans,

the cheeriest of companions, the cleverest of pathfinders, the best of

cooks, and—the most amusing prevaricator I have ever known. His name

is like all Moorish names, a mouthful, "Haj Abd-er-Rahman Salama." We

see him first at the door of his dwelling, a bright young Salama at his

side. We speak with him in French and Spanish, for his much-advertised

command of English is monumentally inadequate. Moreover in French he

speaks like a gentleman, in English like a blackguard; one language having

been learned in Algiers and in Paris, the other picked up from profane

sportsmen, while serving as dragoman for pig-sticking expeditions. As for

his name, we forget it altogether, and address him simply as Haj, the

word "Haj" being a sort of honorific prefix, meaning Pilgrim, in other

words, a righteous Moslem who has made the Holy Pilgrimage to Mecca.

When it was noised abroad that we were thinking of a trip to Fez, the

professional guides of Tangier looked on us as lawful, tempting prey.

One Jewish pathfinder proffered his services and outfit for seven English

pounds a day. Then others came with other propositions, and there ensued

a veritable rate-war in which tents figure in place of Pullman cars,

and, in place of sixty-miles-an-hour locomotives, mules that travel only

sixteen miles a day. And Haj triumphed over all competitors, not because

he made the lowest bid, but because we saw in him a useful, clever

man, full of resource, one of the few Moorish minds able to respond to

Anglo-Saxon sympathies. He is one who has bridged the gulf between the

Moslem and the Christian races, at the cost, possibly, of his orthodoxy

and his hopes of heaven.

[Illustration: THE BEST OF GUIDES, HAJ ABD-ER-RAHMAN SALAMA]

In violent contrast to him in these respects, is our military escort:

our fighting-force, assigned us by the government and consisting of one

personal unit—with dignity and bigotry and decorative picturesqueness

enough for half a regiment. Kaid Lharbi, for such are his title and

name, belongs to the Makhazni, or corps of irregular cavalry, the most

ornamental branch of the Moorish Sultan's army. No traveler is permitted

to go into Morocco unless chaperoned by a Makhazni. Kaid Lharbi will

be for us a sort of living passport, his presence at the head of our

caravan assuring all persons that we are traveling under the protection

of the Moorish government, and that offenses against us will be severely

punished. Without this living token of governmental sanction for our

expedition, it would be within the power of any local chief to arrest

our progress, sending us back in ignominious captivity to Tangier;

or, if he preferred, he could rob us with impunity. Kaid Lharbi is

therefore a valuable acquisition from the standpoints both of safety

and of picturesqueness. He is Moorish in the fullest sense; he thinks

such thoughts and dreams such dreams as did his fathers half a thousand

years ago. He carries a flintlock made in Tetuan, and is supplied with

a lump of lead and a small bullet-mold, that in case of attack he may

be able to cast the necessary bullets.

[Illustration: KAID LHARBI, OUR MILITARY ESCORT]

The sixth day of May is appointed for the departure of our caravan.

It is a memorable day for us, because it marks the close of a long

period of doubt and uncertainty as to the possibility of undertaking

the expedition, and because it marks the beginning of a new life—the

entry into a new world, which is yet immeasurably old. The pack-mules in

charge of the three servants have been sent on ahead to await us in the

suburbs. Kaid Lharbi, muffled in his blue burnoose, has been stationed

like an equestrian statue at the door of the hotel since early morning.

Haj, the guide, is here, there, and everywhere, attending to the thousand

and one little details and difficulties that always arise at the last

moment.

We bid adieu to our acquaintances at the hotel door. At last the start

is made, we file through narrow streets, cross the crowded market-place,

and on its outskirts overtake the pack-mules and the muleteers. A few

necessary articles, brought at the last moment by our thoughtful Haj,

who would have felt himself disgraced had he forgotten anything, are

added to the already heavy burdens of the mules.

[Illustration: THE DEPARTURE]

Then at a signal, our men, the skeptic Haj, and all the rest reverently

turn their faces toward the East, toward Holy Mecca, while Kaid Lharbi,

his head bent low over his horse's neck, intones an impressive prayer

for the successful and happy termination of our journey. This pious duty

done, the order for a forward march is given, and in single file our

little train of men, horses, mules, and donkeys winds its way out of

Tangier, every hoof-beat of the animals taking us nearer to the Middle

Ages. Gradually the suburban street becomes a lane, gradually the lane

fades away, becoming a mere trail, and finally the trail itself, crossing

a ruined bridge, loses itself in the roadless vastness of the Moorish

Empire.

[Illustration: ADDING THE LAST ITEM TO THE PACKS]

[Illustration: THE EDGE OF CIVILIZATION]

Never in all my travels have I more keenly felt that oppressive sense

of separation from things known and familiar than at this moment. No

previous departure by train or steamer had ever seemed so definitely to

break the link that binds us to our own age and our own civilization.

Here, at the bridge that spans a dry and thirsty river-bed, all semblance

of civilization abruptly terminates; before us lies a land without

railways, without roads, without fences, hedges, trees—without dividing

lines of any kind, save long low ranges of barren hills and, in the

eastern distance, the crests of savage mountains. Across this roadless

empire we are now to travel for many days; overhead there will hang

at times a scorching sun, at times dark storm-clouds are to form our

canopy; around us is to stretch a savage, silent land. Before us lies a

scarcely distinguishable track, worn by the hoofs of countless caravans

in years that are uncounted. But for me, in the foreground of every

Moorish landscape looms the figure of Kaid Lharbi. All day I looked over

my horse's ears upon Kaid Lharbi's back, his horse's tail, and his cloak

of blue, his broad-brimmed hat, such as are made and worn by the women of

Tetuan, its brim so broad that colored cords are required as guy ropes to

sustain it. That famous hat served both as a parasol and umbrella; the

image of its expansive brim, flapping gaily in the breeze, or drooping

gloomily beneath an avalanche of water from the skies, will never be

effaced from memory. All day I looked upon that hat; at night I saw it

in my dreams; and, at the journey's end, I acquired it by purchase, and

it now hangs upon my wall,—a mute reminder of a memorable ride.

[Illustration: ACROSS THE ROADLESS PLAINS]

[Illustration: "TWO HARD-WORKING HUMBLE SOULS"]

[Illustration: "BOKHURMUR"]

Less picturesquely mounted, less self-important than Kaid Lharbi but

far more useful, diligent, and kindly were the two hard-working humble

souls who rode on little burros in the rear of the procession. On them

devolved the hardest labors of the journey—to load the mules; to drive

or guide them all day long, frequently running along for miles on foot;

to help or urge the struggling, overburdened animals through the muddy

ditches; to unpack everything at night, set up the tents, build fires,

tether and find forage for nine animals, including their own patient

little donkeys—this formed their regular daily routine. Yet they are

cheerful with it all, although sun and rain, health and sickness, must

mean the same to them; they must not rest on pain of being left behind.

Their names, as near as it was possible for us to grasp them, were

respectively, Bokhurmur and Abuktayer, but which was "Abuktayer," and

which "Bokhurmur" is a point upon which my friend and I could never

quite agree.

[Illustration: THE FIRST HALTING PLACE]

[Illustration: DEVELOPING OUR CANVAS VILLAGE]

At a command from Haj, the caravan has halted. "We have arrived," adds

Haj; "unload! pitch camp! We are where we should be at five o'clock."

[Illustration: THE FIRST CAMP]

Here, then, is to be our first camping-ground, here for the first time

we are to see our outfit set up in its entirety; here we are, for the

first time, to sleep in tents like the Bedouins; to begin the new life

that promises to be so strange and fascinating. With keenest interest

we watch our little canvas village develop. At first we attempt to aid

the men, but Haj sternly prohibits all effort on our part. It is not

consistent with our dignity as great American _seigneurs_ to stoop to

labor. A mattress is hastily unpacked and spread upon the ground, and

on it we repose in lordly laziness. Had we driven a single tent-peg, we

should have lost completely the respect of our Oriental hirelings.

[Illustration: A SILENT, CURIOUS PYRAMID]

Three tents compose the camp: one large green tent of English manufacture

for the grand _seigneurs_, two Moorish tents, for the accommodation of

the faithful suite. One by one the canvas houses rise. The animals are

tethered close at hand. From the neighboring village, ragged men bring

fodder for the animals, eggs and chickens for the foreign lords. These

things, of course, are paid for, because, our expedition not being of a

diplomatic or official nature, we do not enjoy the right to be served

with the traditional "Mouna," that is, we cannot levy contributions

upon the tribes. Our letters of recommendation demand for us merely

the protection of the village chiefs. When a great man, be he a native

potentate or the ambassador of a foreign nation, passes through the land

in state, all things are by the Sultan's command furnished him gratis

by the people of each bashalik, or province. As the villagers gather in

a silent, curious pyramid, to watch with deepest interest everything

we do, to examine with uncomprehending eyes our mysterious camp-beds,

our folding chairs and tables, let me describe another custom that is

observed during the progress of an official expedition.

[Illustration: "WITH UNCOMPREHENDING EYES"]

[Illustration: CHEZ NOUS]

When the people of a village have a boon to ask or a favor to entreat

from the Sultan at Fez, such as the release from prison of some fellow

tribesman, or the recall of some too cruel tax-extortioner, a deputation

of villagers comes in procession to the tent of the great man, and

before the entrance sacrifices a heifer or a sheep. If the chief or

the ambassador is inclined to grant the petition, or to further the

purposes of the suppliants, he accepts the gift of meat and it is eaten

by his escort. If he denies their request, he averts his face; no man

is permitted to touch the sacrifice, and it is left as food for birds

of prey.

[Illustration: "HAJ" IN DOUBT]

[Illustration: "HAJ" IN JOY]

[Illustration: "ACHMEDO"]

The camp arrangements being complete, and all things made ready for

our reception, Haj proudly but anxiously invites our inspection of the

interior arrangements of our canvas home. "Well done, Haj Abd-er-Rahman

Salama!" we exclaim, as a vision of coziness and comfort is revealed to

us. Well done, indeed! No wanderer in a barbarous land could ask for

more. We behold soft beds with fresh white sheets and pillow cases,

bright rugs upon the turf, a table large enough for two, well spread

with tempting food, and all this is protected from heat and cold and rain

and wind by a fine triple tent, green without, pink-lined within like a

luxurious boudoir. And this is to be our home for forty long delightful

days. No matter where our camp may lie, on the barren hillside, in the

fertile plain, or on the outskirts of a dirty town, this cozy corner

will be always the same. No matter how wild and hostile the surrounding

scenes, we have but to draw the tent-flaps close to find ourselves

delightfully _chez nous_. Moreover, we are as well served as in an

excellent hotel, for although we lack the electric-button, we have a

perfect substitute in the person of Achmedo al Hishu, our valet, groom,

and butler. Achmedo is not handsome, but he is indispensable; he is

always at hand, answering a call before it is made, satisfying a want

as soon as it is felt. He speaks a kind of Tangerine servant language, a

mixture of Spanish, French, and English, startling at times, but always

comprehensible. His one fault is a fondness for the pipe, in which he

smokes—not comparatively innocent tobacco—but the nerve-deadening weed

called "keef." Moreover, we observe him to be a great imbiber. As he

rides across the plain, proudly seated on the summit of a baggage-pack

(beneath which the poor mule is scarcely visible), Achmedo may be seen

to lift a bottle reverently to his lips, three times to every mile. We

marveled that he could preserve his equilibrium day after day, until we

discovered the nature of the contents of that bottle—cold tea, flavored

with mint and sugar.

[Illustration: A MISTY MORNING]

A word more about our invaluable Haj Abd-er-Rahman Salama, whose dusky

face reflects the anxiety that fills his soul as he awaits our verdict

upon the first meal prepared by him. He claimed to be himself a skillful

chef, and insisted that he be allowed to manage the commissary department

without interference. We reluctantly intrusted our gastronomic welfare

to this homely heathen, and throughout the day visions of hard-tack and

rancid bacon haunted our hungry souls. We scarcely dared to hope for

better fare, furnished, as it was to be, by this cunning caterer, who has

us completely in his power. He is free to starve or stuff us; no power

can touch him now. If he prove faithless, we must suffer; we are his

slaves for forty days; he is our master, we must go whither he leads,

for we are in an unknown country; we must eat that which he provides,

for we are in an empty land.

[Illustration: OVER THE RED HILL]

But when dinner is served, we enthusiastically declare that Haj is

the best cook south of Paris; and at this his handsome features are

convulsed into a smile of proud and happy satisfaction. The dinner

served on that first evening in our camp was a culinary triumph; a

perfect little table d'hôte: consomme; fish, fresh from the basket of

a Tangier fisherman; sweetbread croquettes; broiled chicken; salad;

blancmange, cooled in a neighboring stream; a sip of Turkish coffee, a

little glass of benedictine, and then a cigarette. All this prepared and

served in a little tent pitched far from town or city in the midst of

the somber Moorish plain. How it was possible for Haj to turn out from

his tiny canvas kitchen, and with his crude utensils, dishes so varied

and delicious, was an enduring mystery to us, but we fared sumptuously

throughout the journey. We lived in greater comfort and were better

served than in the French hotels of Algeria or the big hotels of Spain,

and we dined as well as on the Paris boulevards; and for all this,

we paid a price ridiculously low. Haj provided the entire outfit,—two

horses, five mules, two donkeys, and three tents; paid wages to three

servants, baksheesh to the military escort, furnished all provisions,

cooked for us, schemed for us, guided us,—all for twelve dollars daily

and a present at the journey's end. Beyond this small sum we spent not

a penny, save for the purchase of some little souvenirs.

[Illustration: "NEVER MORE THAN TWENTY MILES A DAY"]

[Illustration: THE CAMP OF THE GOVERNOR]

On the second morning, dark, lowering clouds obscure the heavens; yet,

despite the threat of a stormy day we break camp, a task requiring about

two hours of hard labor for our men. Our animals are loosed and roam at

will, browsing upon the fresh sweet clover. The men of the neighboring

village, who have been guarding the camp since evening, return to their

huts at daybreak; all night they sat in groups around our tents, chanting

or mumbling prayers to keep themselves awake. We reward them with a

present of silver coins, which they accept with greedy eyes. At last,

the countless things pertaining to the camp being all stowed securely in

the broad packs, we bid farewell to our first Morocco halting-place and

begin what, we have been told, will prove the most disagreeable stage of

the entire journey—the crossing of the Red Hill; an experience dreaded

by all caravans, especially in rainy weather. And rightly unpopular is

it, this trail of broken rock and slimy reddish clay, where at every

step our horses stumble or slip, where every now and then a pack mule,

fixing the forefeet firmly, goes glissading swiftly down the hill, until,

over-balanced by its enormous burden, it literally capsizes, and lies

helpless in the mire while the crew jettisons the cargo, rights the

poor hulk, re-ballasts it, and steers it down the dangerous channel,

using the tail as rudder and sharpened sticks as inspiration. Frequent

heavy downpours of rain add to our discomfort, drenching us to the skin

and threatening to shipwreck our hopes of reaching camp with tents and

baggage dry. But suddenly, an hour after we reach the plain, the sky is

cleared and swept completely clean, as if a great sponge had wiped away

the rain clouds; and then a beaming sun quickly dries men and animals and

burdens, causing us to give off clouds of vapor until we can scarcely

distinguish one another. And thus we journey on, never faster than at

a rapid walk, with frequent delays caused by the breaking of a strap,

the balky temper of a mule, or by a deep ditch difficult to ford. We

cover never more than twenty miles a day. At midday we come upon the

camp of the Basha of Tangier, and near it we make a halt for luncheon.

Haj informs us that the Governor has come up country to arrange a few

official robberies, and to administer a little Moorish justice—a peculiar

quality of justice.

[Illustration: SUBJECTS OF THE SULTAN]

The collection of taxes is, however, the Basha's most important business.

The taxpayers are assembled around his tent, and pay in money, in produce,

and in cattle. The assessment varies according to the visible possessions

and apparent prosperity of the victim. No wise subject of the Moorish

Sultan ever boasts of his possessions. All feign poverty; for every man

is allowed to rob the man who is next in rank below him. The poor man

who can find no poorer man to rob that he may pay his due, is the one

who suffers most. We saw a dozen such in the tent at the Basha's camp,

chained together, the neck of each locked in a metal collar; the whole

procession was to be marched with the music of that clanking chain to

the prison at Tangier, many miles away.

[Illustration: PRISONERS]

There is no justice in Morocco. The headman of a village squeezes all

he can out of the nothing that his people have; the chief man of the

district levies on the village headman; the chief pays tribute to the

Governor; the Governor cannot expect to hold his office unless magnificent

presents are annually sent to some grand vizier of the court at Fez; and

every now and then we hear of the downfall of a grand vizier, who has

waxed wealthy, boasted of his possessions, excited the cupidity of his

sacred Sultan and paid the penalty, either by suffering the confiscation

of his fortune and then exile, or perhaps by drinking, at the command

of the all-holy Emperor, a little glass of poisoned tea.

[Illustration: ALCAZAR-EL-KEBIR]

We one day tendered in payment for provisions a Spanish dollar somewhat

dim and dark. It was refused. "Give me bright shining money," said the

man who had supplied us with eggs and milk. "That dark coin looks as if

it had been buried; if I attempt to pass it, the chief will send his men

to dig around and underneath my house, to see if I have more concealed

beneath the floors or in the ground outside."

Next day after our meeting with the Basha, we reach the first interior

city of any considerable size, Alcazar-el-Kebir. "Alcazar the Great,"

its inhabitants proudly entitle it, and in its time it has been great.

Here there were fitted out, in the eighth century, the expeditions that

went forth to conquer Spain and Europe. Later it was taken and held by

the Portuguese until that fatal day in 1578, when, on the battlefield not

far from the city gates, the very flower of the chivalry of Portugal fell

before the fearful onslaught of the Moorish foe. At Alcazar, Portugal

received the death-blow of her greatness. Before the loss of Alcazar

Portugal was one of the world's great powers. This terrible defeat was

the beginning of the end.

[Illustration: A THOROUGHFARE]

[Illustration: THE SULTAN MULAI AL HASAN IN TANGIER

(Photographed by Molina)]

[Illustration: WE PURCHASE MORE MOORISH CLOTHING]

The city is unlike all other cities of the interior, for it was built

by the Portuguese. It is not white, as are the Moorish cities, but all

in dull greys, browns, and soiled and dingy yellows. In the bazaar we

purchase more Moorish clothing—long white garments, far cooler than

our riding-suits, and upon returning in our new attire to the camp, we

are greeted effusively by a dusky gentleman who introduces himself as

the Consular Agent of the United States. Unfortunately his kindly words

are all Arabic, of which we do not understand a word. Nevertheless Mr.

Hamman Slawi convinces us of his good-will by presenting us with a pair

of yellow slippers, and manifests his admiration by sitting in our tent

and looking at us intently for just two hours and a half. Long calls are

the custom in Morocco, and when Mr. Slawi finally departed, he left his

son, a fat little chap, to continue staring at us so that we might not

feel neglected. And when the boy was finally induced to go, the father

sent the local symphony orchestra to serenade us in the gloaming, with

two insistent drums and an exasperating flute.

[Illustration: MR. HAMMAN SLAWI, U. S. CONSULAR AGENT]

We are compelled to give these cacophonic tormentors a present to bring

the concert to an end. A present, by the way, is an important element in

every Moorish proposition. Presents are the lubricating medium used in

the social and political machinery of this ancient empire. Acting upon

the advice of former travelers, we have brought with us many gifts for

the Kaids or sheiks or bashas who show us kindness, or from whom we may

desire to obtain favors. A dozen Waterbury watches are reserved for the

men who are very great; for lesser notabilities we carry other presents,

among them, strange to say, all sorts of little toys, like jumping

jacks, kaleidoscopes, and automatic animals. These are not intended for

the children, but for full-grown men, hoary-headed chieftains who have

a passion for such novelties. The Moors are at heart big children, with

all the simplicity, deceitfulness, and passion of real children.

[Illustration: THE SERENADE]

And, like unfeeling children, these people are often thoughtlessly cruel.

They appear not to notice the wounds caused by the heavy, ill-adjusted

harness of the pack mules, or the ugly cut made by the brutal bit in the

mouth of Kaid Lharbi's faithful horse. When we remonstrated with our men

about this useless cruelty, they answered that the animals are "used to

it;" that it is the custom of the country for mules to have raw backs

and horses bleeding jaws. The Moslem firmly believes that "whatever is,

is right;" and we console ourselves with the assurance of the classic

author who asserts that "the souls of usurers are metempsychosed, or

translated, into the bodies of asses, and there remain certain years

for poor men to take their pennyworth out of their bones."

[Illustration: TRAVELING THUS EIGHT HOURS EVERY DAY]

[Illustration: THE MOUNTAINS OF WAZZAN]

Later in the day we met with a curious experience. As we began the descent

into a broad valley, we saw approaching us another caravan. When it

drew near, we discovered, with pleased surprise, that the man who rode

in front was clothed in coat and trowsers, evidently a European, a man

from our own world, perhaps the only other white-skinned traveler in the

land. We shook off the lethargy that results from a long morning in the

saddle, and prepared to greet the stranger with smiles and questions,

eager to give news of the living world to one who must have been buried

for at least many days in this roadless land, eager to send back by him

messages to the consul in Tangier. Nearer he comes and nearer, but as

yet he makes no sign. Imagine, then, our blank dismay when the caravans

pass one another on this narrow trail amid the yellow grain, and the

stranger—a German merchant, as we learned afterward—rides past with his

Teutonic nose high in air, without a side glance or a nod, without the

slightest sign of recognition in answer to our smiles; for so astonished

were we that we could not speak. This exhibition of boorishness, I fear,

gave our Moslem followers a sad notion of the love and good-fellowship

existing between man and man in the world of unbelievers.

After receiving this cut-direct, we ride on across the grand free

landscape, its lines unbroken by trees or houses, where grain grows wild

and rots unharvested. In Roman times Morocco was the granary of Europe;

to-day the Moorish authorities prohibit the exportation of all grain.

"It is not meet," they say, "that the unbeliever should be nourished by

the labor of the faithful."

[Illustration: "WHERE GRAIN GROWS WILD"]

Thus our days pass until, on the fifth morning of the journey, we halt

in a delightful garden on the outskirts of the city of Wazzan. The word

"Wazzan" perhaps means nothing to a stranger, but to a Moorish Moslem

it is second only to Mecca in sacred significance; for as Mecca was

the home of Mohammed, the great prophet, so Wazzan is the home of the

grand Shareef, the most direct descendant of Mohammed, the most revered

personage in all Morocco. A connection, however remote, with the prophet's

line is a relationship that insures the respectful consideration of every

Mohammedan. To be the most descendant, the grandson-many-times-removed

of Fatima, the prophet's daughter and Ali, his favorite disciple, is to

take precedence over Emperors and Sultans in the sight of every true

believer. And thus the Shareef of Wazzan, upon whose holy city we now

cast our profane glance, is a greater, holier man than either the Sultan

of Turkey or the Sultan of Morocco.

[Illustration: DRUDGERY]

[Illustration: A WELL IN THE GARDEN NEAR WAZZAN]

[Illustration: THE SACRED CITY OF WAZZAN]

True, these two emperors trace their ancestry back to the same sacred

source; but many true believers call his Turkish majesty a renegade

and backslider, while the family-tree of the Moorish Sultan has been

so bent and twisted, and its branches have been so rudely hacked and

broken by revolutions, wars, and crimes that a majority of his subjects

look askance upon his pretensions as Commander of the Faithful. Many of

them secretly, some openly, acknowledge the Shareef of Wazzan not only

as the spiritual head of the Empire, but also as its rightful temporal

lord. Fortunately for the internal peace of the land the Shareefs have

been content to exercise imperial power by suggestion, to receive tithes

in lieu of taxes, and to leave to the Sultan and his ministers at Fez

the vexatious details of the government and the semblance of absolute

authority. So sacred is this city of Wazzan, so fanatical are its

inhabitants, that we dared not enter its gates until a military escort

sent by the Shareef came to conduct us to the home assigned us as a

residence by that sainted potentate.

[Illustration: THE MARKET-PLACE]

It cost our servants several hours' labor to clean the mansion and make

it habitable. In the meantime, with Haj as interpreter and Kaid Lharbi

to lend dignity to our party, we were escorted by a half-dozen ragged

soldiers to the Shareef's palace, which gleams white in the midst of

green gardens. There we were received with high-bred dignity and more

than ordinary cordiality by the man who, as has been said, is revered,

from Morocco to Madras, as the holiest and greatest representative of

Islamism.

[Illustration: OUR "PALACE" IN WAZZAN]

We found the Shareef seated on soft cushions beneath a white pavilion in

the midst of a luxuriant garden. Around him courtiers were grouped; old

men with long, white beards, young men with fierce, hard faces—chiefs of

the neighboring tribes. The Shareef, a handsome man, black-bearded and

completely robed in simple veils of white, bore his thirty-five years

with dignity, despite a suggestion of indolence, almost of lethargy in

his manner. Haj approached on hands and knees and kissed the Shareef's

garments. We bowed and took the chairs which had been placed for our

comfort just outside the pavilion. The dialogue ensuing between our host

and guide was deliberate, cordial, and much embroidered with compliments,

as is the custom here in good society. We, through our spokesman, thanked

his holiness for his hospitality. He apologizes for the condition of

our house.

[Illustration: "THE SHAREEF'S PALACE, WHITE IN THE MIDST OF GREEN GARDENS"]

[Illustration: A HOME IN THE SHAREEF'S CITY]

Haj is instructed to express our complete satisfaction. He translates

our crude reply with Moorish tact and delicacy: "My masters, O Shareef,"

he says, "bid me declare that to see thy face is so great joy that they

have no thought of minor things; illuminated by the light of thy face,

the house becomes a palace, grander than their own palaces in foreign

lands." And this sort of thing is actually taken seriously in Morocco!

Then, remembering that the presentation of gifts is now in order, Haj

continues: "O Shareef, so grateful are my masters for thy kindness that

they beg thee to accept a humble present. The youth who wears no beard

gladly parts with his precious timepiece, the gift of his father, much

prized by him, but still scarcely worthy thine acceptance." Whereupon

my friend, with feigned reluctance, detaches from his watch-chain one

of our stock of Waterburys, and, as if it had been a gold chronometer,

an heirloom in the family, lays it at the feet of Holiness. Holiness

graciously accepts the gift, and although he remarks upon the absence of

a chain, is apparently well pleased. We are glad that he does not know

that we have still nine "Waterbury heirlooms" left in stock.

[Illustration: A FORD]

[Illustration: THEIR DAILY TIPPLE—"TEA"]

The interview being over, we return to our residence to find our men

indulging in their daily tipple—tea. Kaid Lharbi, sitting aloof as befits

his higher rank, brews the tea, and serves it with much ceremony to the

rest. Meantime Haj gives us some information regarding the Shareefs of

Wazzan. The present saint is, he assures us, a very proper personage,

but his late father who owed his title to a clever ruse, was a scandal

to the holy name. When his immediate predecessor was upon his deathbed,

his ministers implored him to designate which of his many children should

succeed him. The old man answered: "In the garden you will find a child

playing with my staff. Him shall ye consider the one chosen of God to

become Shareef." At this, one of the negresses, a slave, slipped secretly

from the room, and finding in the garden the favorite white child of the

dying saint, snatched away from the little one the staff, and placed it

in the hands of her own little boy, a jet-black imp, who also had the

right to call the Shareef father. When the ministers appeared, they bowed

low before the negro child, and upon him the mantel of impeccability

descended; but whoever has gazed upon him as he appeared in later years

will not wonder that the mantle of impeccability was not worn gracefully,

and that it frequently slipped off. The charm of European life appealed

too strongly to him. He forsook Wazzan, and built for himself a palace

in Tangier, where he wined and dined the foreign diplomats, and ended

by falling in love with an English governess. As to his liking for

liquor, that sin was forgiven him, since wine cannot enter the mouth

of a Shareef—it turns to water at the merest touch of saintly lips. As

to his love-affair, that was more serious; for he married his English

sweetheart, to the horror of his people and despite the protests of the

woman's friends. The marriage was not performed, however, until he had

been forced to sign a contract, abolishing his harem, and making her

his wife in a Christian sense. Moreover, one clause provided that should

he, "the party of the first part," in spite of all take to himself other

wives in the future, a forfeit of twenty thousand dollars should be paid,

per wife, to "the party of the second part." Alas, how many thousands

of his great income went to balance this account, so rashly opened

with his Christian spouse! After a brief spell of good behavior, the

husband fell back into his old ways; marriages occurred with startling

frequency, and, finally worn out by his excesses, the "holiest man in

all Morocco," revered by Moslems from the east to the west of Islam, died

from the effects of too frequently performing his favorite miracle—that

of changing champagne and brandy into water by pouring them between his

sacred lips.

[Illustration: THE LATE LAMENTED SHAREEF OF WAZZAN]

[Illustration: IN CONVERSATION WITH KAID LHARBI]

The English wife of the wicked old Shareef bore him two sons, now

young men. They have been educated abroad, speak English well, and are

distinctly up to date. Yet when they travel in Morocco they wear the

native dress, and their journey is like a triumphal progress; all the

people worship them. I have seen large crowds in Tangier fighting only

for the opportunity to kiss their garments as they rode through the

market-place. Neither, however, became grand Shareef on their father's

death, for he appointed Sidi Mohammed, his son by a Moorish wife, the

man to whom we gave the Waterbury watch. The English widow lives a very

secluded life near Oran, in Algeria, but she is loved and revered by

the Moors; for while her influence endured, she went about doing good,

relieving distress, bringing a little Anglo-Saxon light into the dark

lives of her people.

[Illustration: "BIDS US BEGONE"]

And dark indeed must be the lives of the people in the villages near which

we pitch our camp. Perhaps a woman would, with great vehemence, bid us

begone, lamenting the desolation that will surely come to her village

if the strangers camp under the protection of its chief. Her reason is

that should we meet with loss from the attack of some wandering band of

marauders, this village will be held responsible, and punishment for

offenses committed against us will be visited upon those who, by the

sacred laws of hospitality, are bound to protect us.

[Illustration: "YET FLOWERS AND BABIES GROW IN THESE MOORISH VILLAGES"]

But disregarding prayers and threats we make ourselves at home; and

finally the women, reconciled, come with their babies to beg for aid and

medical advice. Every white man is supposed to possess the power to cure

disease, and many were the pitiful appeals made to us for relief and

help. We were asked to treat all kinds of maladies, but we discovered one

unique and hitherto unknown ailment: "What is your trouble?" was asked

of a man who came with sadness written on his face. "Oh!" he replied,

"I cannot eat as much as I should like to." Poverty and ignorance are

the common lot, yet flowers and babies grow in these Moorish villages.

[Illustration: "ON THE LOOKOUT FOR ADVENTURE"]

We have now approached a portion of the Beni Hassan territory, a region

inhabited by a tribe whose chief pursuit is robbery, whose supreme

joy is murder; and the placing of a guard around the tent is no longer

a mere formality. As yet, however, we have seen no roving bands; but

next day as we file across the flower-spotted plain, we observe on the

horizon a number of moving patches of bright color. With lightning-like

rapidity, these flashes of color sweep toward us, each one resolving

itself into a Moorish cavalier, well mounted, fully armed, and seemingly

upon the lookout for adventure. These, then, are Beni Hassan men! What

will they do to us and how shall we greet them? is our anxious thought,

as they draw nearer, brandishing their rifles, shouting as they ride.

The first brief moment of alarm is, however, quickly ended. The chief

salutes us cordially; asks Haj whence we come, whither we are going; and

then, desirous of showing honor to us (for foreign travelers are always

looked upon as men of great distinction), he offers to perform for us

a fantasia. The fantasia is an exhibition of Arabian horsemanship, a

sort of glorified cavalry-charge, a spectacular manœuver, the favorite

amusement of the Moorish cavalier, the exercise in which he takes most

pleasure and most pride. It is called by him lab-el-baroud, "the powder

play." A dozen cavaliers, each one a savage, long-haired son of Hassan,

advance across the plain, their horses aligned, breast with breast. They

twirl aloft their richly inlaid guns; then, putting their chargers to

their fullest speed, the riders rise in the stirrups, seize the reins

between their teeth, and sweep toward us in swift majesty. On go the

horses at full gallop, still accurately in line. Faster and faster

spin the guns above the riders' heads; now muskets are tossed high in

air, and descending are caught by strong bronzed hands that never fail.

On go the horses; then the men, still standing in the stirrups, their

loose garments enveloping them like rapid-flying clouds, at a signal

discharge a rousing volley, and under cover of the smoke check—almost

instantaneously with the cruel bits—their panting horses, bloody-mouthed

and deeply scarred and wounded by the spurs. This intensely thrilling

and picturesque performance is rehearsed before us several times, the

chief being proud of his little band of "rough riders."

[Illustration: A SON OF HASSAN]

The men disdainfully examine our English saddles, our horses with docked

tails, and laugh at our tiny spurs, for their spurs are sharp spikes

three or four inches long. They mockingly challenge us to join them in

another fantasia, and to the amazement of the chief my friend accepts

the challenge. The long muzzle-loading rifles are charged again, and

the entire troop, with an American in its midst, slowly canters away.

Facing about, the horsemen form in line and begin to twirl their guns

on high. Having no rifle, the stranger draws and flourishes an American

revolver. Then, suddenly, the horses leap away, and like a whirlwind the

fantasia is upon us. The muskets are discharged; the revolver pops away,

and then a mad race begins. Strange to say, the Tangier horse outruns

the chargers of the plains, and we see the white helmet of the American

flash past, one length in advance of the line of frenzied horsemen!

[Illustration: A NOONDAY RESTING-PLACE]

Chagrined at this defeat, the chief attempts to unseat the victor,

charging directly at my friend, who, by a skillful movement, avoids

a dangerous collision. Then, spurring after that boasting Beni Hassan

tribesman, the American overtakes him, and throws an arm around his neck;

and, as they dash on, locked in this embrace, my friend, with a voice

that was trained in the Athletic Field at New Haven, shouts a rousing

"Rah, Rah, Rah!—Yale!" into the ear of the astonished savage, and thus

ends our adventure with the wild Beni Hassan band.

[Illustration: HAPPY MOMENTS FOR THE MULES]

Reassured by the amusing outcome of this first encounter, we ride on

toward our noonday halting-place. Our marches are so timed that at midday

we may find ourselves near some patch of shade. Shade in Morocco is rare

indeed, but as every tree and bush between Tangier and Fez is marked

on Haj's mental map, we are usually assured of leafy shelter during our

noonday rest. Throughout the burning hours from noon till three or four

o'clock, we lie at full length amid the flowers, carefully following

the shadows as they slowly creep around the trees. The animals, relieved

of pack, though not of saddle, browse dreamily, or roll in ecstasy amid

the fragrant grasses. Our men with Oriental resignation lunch frugally,

sit and smoke in silence, or indulge in semi-slumber, with one eye open

lest the mules escape. Then, after the sun's rays have lost a little of

their torrid sting, we jog on once more in the comparative coolness of

the afternoon across the Moorish prairies.

[Illustration: ROUGH RIDERS]

Space in Morocco is still a stern reality. The city Fez, to reach which

we must travel thus during eleven days, could be reached by rail (were

there a railway leading thither) in a half-dozen hours! Apropos of this,

let me repeat a scrap of wayside conversation.

"Morocco is indeed a spacious country," said I one day to dignified Kaid

Lharbi.

"It is the biggest country in the world," gravely replied the Kaid. Then

gently I endeavored to disabuse his mind of this impression by telling

of the vastness of the territory of the United States.

"But how long does it take to cross your country?" he inquired.

"We travel five days in fast trains to go from San Francisco to New

York," I answered.

"Bah! that is nothing," rejoined our military escort with a sneer of

triumph. "To go from Tafilet in the south to Tangier in the north, the

fastest caravan must travel _forty days_. You see Morocco is the biggest

country in the world!"

[Illustration: "HAJ"]

Nor can we blame him for his opinion, for the land looks boundless. The

grand, free lines of the Moorish landscape are unbroken; no trees, no

houses, no hedges, and no highways are there to spoil the composition of

the picture drawn and painted by the master artist, Nature. The country,

although fertile, is uncultivated. The horizon seems wider than in other

lands. Apparently there is no end, no limit to the landscape. We know

that beyond each range of hills there will be revealed a replica of this

primeval picture. One scene like this will succeed another with scarce

an interruption until the minarets of Fez shall cut their square majestic

outlines against the southern sky.

[Illustration: "SPACE, IN MOROCCO, IS STILL A STERN REALITY"]

Who can describe the floral beauty of these boundless prairies?—who

except Pierre Loti? It was his dainty volume, "Au Maroc," that inspired

me with a desire to follow him into Morocco. When I was reading his

beautiful descriptions of the floral mosaic that covers both the plains

and hillsides of the land, I could not easily accept as true the seemingly

exaggerated assertions of the author; his glowing word-pictures of an

"empire carpeted with flowers." Yet he spoke truly, and as I rode across

these broad stretches of pure white, where marguerites in all their modest

loveliness lie thick upon the greensward, I knew that I had seen it all

before—seen it upon his printed page, as real, as beautifully vivid as

it is to me to-day. To visit Morocco after reading Pierre Loti is like

returning to a land that is familiar, to a land already seen, to a land

the charm of which has been revealed in the magic pages of his poetic

prose.

[Illustration: "THE BIGGEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD"]

For miles and miles this bundle of narrow intersecting trails, the

only Imperial Highway of the Sultan of Morocco, leads us on through a

veritable garden—between interminable flower-beds. Our foreground is

at times pure white, at others purple with a sea of iris flowers, at

others scarlet with the blood of anemones, at others yellow with the

golden glory of the buttercups and daisies. The mountain slopes and

hillsides meanwhile reflect the many colors of the spectrum. It is as

if some gorgeous rainbow, shattered in the Moorish heaven, had fallen

upon the deserted hills and valleys of this savage, silent land. It is

as if the divine Artist had resolved to make this wilderness the palette

from which to take the colors for all future landscapes. It is as if the

sunset of the day before was lingering here to meet the sunset of the

morrow. It is as if Almighty Allah had selected the Empire of Moghreb

for his sanctuary, and had spread out upon its sacred floor a prayer-rug

of unutterable beauty, woven by the divine looms—a carpet of heavenly

design to inspire man to fall upon his knees and pray.

[Illustration: AN EMPIRE CARPETED WITH FLOWERS]

This is our life during ten delightful, never-to-be-forgotten days.

All day we journey southward, pausing at noon "midway twixt here and

there;" at night we arrive, as my friend expressed it, at "nowhere in

particular," and in the glow of the sunset we pitch our little camp. Then,

when the evening fire is lighted, the encircling night grows blacker,

the surrounding darkness becomes a protecting wall, and we feel almost

secure. Our animals are hobbled in a row before the tent, each with a

heap of fresh green grass or clover. They eat all night; and when we

wake, startled by the cry of a jackal, or by a shout from one of the men

on guard, we are sure to hear that music of nine munching mouths. It is

our lullaby, and we fall asleep again to dream of Fez, the mysterious

city which we shall enter on the morrow.

[Illustration: INTERMINABLE FLOWER-BEDS]

[Illustration: "NOWHERE IN PARTICULAR"]

[Illustration: "A SEMBLANCE OF A HIGHWAY"]

On the eleventh morning of our journey this semblance of a highway comes

straggling from the south to meet us. The countless caravans, crawling

toward the holy city, have created this illusion of a road—a road that

will lead us in a few short hours to the gates of a great city, the

fascination of which, for him who has the slightest love of romance in

his soul, is irresistible. Fez is no banal, modernized, or tourist-ridden

city, nor is it a mere heap of ugliness and ruin of which the only charm

is a remoteness from the living world. Fez is a city that has been in its

time one of the proudest and most splendid cities of the Moslem world.

Its fall has been so gradual that there has been no change, nothing but

a slow decay, so gentle that it has not scarred old Fez, but beautified

it. Fez, like Venice, requires but a touch of the imagination, aided by

the long shadows of the early morning, the mystery of twilight, or the

silvery magic of the moonlight, to restore it to us as it stood in all

its somber beauty eight hundred years ago.

[Illustration: "MIDWAY TWIXT HERE AND THERE"]

[Illustration: UN TRIBUNAL ARABE

(J. LAURENT MADRID)]

Therefore do we most eagerly await the moment that will reveal to us

this crumbling stronghold of a dying race, this beautiful but fragile

shell of Moorish civilization,—a civilization that long ago ceased to

progress, and, ceasing to progress, has thereby ceased to live.

[Illustration]