FOUR-IN-HAND. VARIOUS USEFUL HINTS—WHAT SPARE ARTICLES TO CARRY, ETC.
THE beginner must not suppose that a team, or for that matter even one
horse, can be driven with the left hand only; even the very best of
whips is obliged to have constant recourse to the right hand, especially
when passing through traffic.
At the same time, he must remember to resist the temptation of keeping
the right hand permanently on the reins, nor should it ever be employed
like the coachman’s hand in fig. 3, in holding on to a bight of the off
reins in order to keep the horses straight.
The team ought to run perfectly straight at any time with the reins in
the left hand only; and as a continuous pressure of the right hand is
very liable to cause any one of the reins to slip, especially the near
wheel when the horses are pulling, this practice is objectionable. Of
course if the left hand gets tired, the right must come to its
assistance, and then it should be placed either on three or all four
reins (see figs. 18 and 35).
[Sidenote: Always keep a steady pressure on reins.] Mind and keep a good
steady pressure on the reins at all times, and keep the horses up to
that pressure with the whip. The most common fault among amateurs is
that they do not hold their horses nearly tight enough by the head.
[Sidenote: Reins slipping a common fault.] Always have a good hold of
them, and above all things remember never to let the reins slip through
the fingers. This is a constant cause of horses getting out of hand, and
pulling for a long way, when they would otherwise have gone quite
comfortably after the first mile or so.
[Sidenote: Resin or wax on gloves.] To prevent the reins from slipping,
if the horses are pulling, and especially with new gloves, it will be
found very convenient to put a little powdered resin or beeswax on the
fingers and palm of the hand.
[Sidenote: Start slow.] If you have time, always start slowly (at first
six or seven miles an hour); by adopting this plan the horses will go
more kindly, and after a bit your arm and fingers will feel much less
tired than if you had started at a rapid pace.
[Sidenote: Right wrist well rounded when right hand on reins, back
inclined downwards.] It is very important to keep the right wrist well
rounded when pulling the reins on either side, and the back of the hand
rather inclined downwards.
[Sidenote: Point of whip to be kept well up and to the front.] By
keeping the hand in this position it will be found that the point of the
whip is kept well to the front and high up. If the back of the hand is
turned up at all, the whip is sure either to cause considerable
inconvenience to the person on the box seat (fig. 26), or else to hit
the near wheeler close to his tail. This will most probably make him
swish it, and if it should by any chance get over the thong, the result
may be disastrous to the boot.
[Sidenote: Team boring to one side—how to remedy.] If the horses are all
boring to the left, it is no use simply pulling at the two off-side
reins with the right hand, but at once shorten these reins in the left.
This can be done either by shortening them singly, or by catching hold
of the two off-side reins as usual, placing the forefinger over the near
lead, and the middle finger over the near wheel, and then allowing the
near-side reins to slide a little through the fingers of both hands,
while still retaining a firm grip of the off-side reins. Of course,
however, only a very little can be got out at a time by this method.
Another plan is to grip the reins tightly with the right hand, the first
two fingers over the near-side reins, the lower fingers over the off,
and then to open the fingers of the left hand, when the off-side reins
can be pushed through them by turning the lower part of the right hand
towards the left (see figs. 18 and 35).
[Sidenote: Never remove left hand from reins.] Never on any account take
the left hand out of the reins, even though the right may be holding
them firmly in front, as it is very difficult to get the left hand back
into its place again with the reins in the right places. Of course, if
your fingers are numbed from cold or from hard pulling, it will be
necessary to take the hand out and slap the fingers on the thigh.
[Sidenote: Taking leaders’ reins out with right hand.] But if the horses
seem to be going all anyhow, take the leaders out with [Sidenote: Lead
reins should seldom be removed from left hand.] the right hand, the
little finger over the off lead, and the first or second finger over the
near lead (fig. 32); then adjust the wheelers by letting the rein which
is too short slide gently through the left hand, and replace the
leaders. If the reins are found to be too long, shorten them all from
behind. This plan should be rarely resorted to, as it is a very bad
habit to perpetually fiddle with the lead reins.
[Sidenote: Keep an eye always on horses.] Always keep an eye on the
position of the horses, and see that they are in their right places, and
that each is doing his fair share of work.
If any horse is out of his place, find out the cause, and adjust the
rein or use the whip accordingly.
[Sidenote: Grip tightly with third and little fingers to prevent reins
slipping.] Always keep the left hand and elbow in their proper
positions, and keep a firm grip of the reins with the third and little
fingers never on any account allowing one to slip. This cannot be too
strongly insisted on, although it will be found very tiring at first,
even if the horses are not pulling.
[Illustration: FIG. 32.—TAKING LEADERS’ REINS OUT OF LEFT HAND WITH
RIGHT HAND.]
[Sidenote: Do not drop left hand.] When catching or attending to the
whip, beginners are very apt to drop the left hand. This leads to horses
getting out of hand, and makes them pull.
[Sidenote: When looping do not alter position of left hand.] Do not
allow the left hand to go moving across the body from side to side, or
to move to the front to pick up the reins; except occasionally when
turning to the left, when it may be useful to loop thus:—
Hold the off-side reins under little and third fingers of the right
hand; then take hold of the near-lead rein with the forefinger some
three inches away from left hand; and holding it tight bring it up as
much as possible towards the body, at the same time quickly passing the
left hand down so as to catch the near-lead rein in front of the right
forefinger with the left thumb; then bring the left hand back to its
original position, and you have a good loop, and the wheelers are
checked from rushing the corner by the lower part of the right hand
pressing on the off reins.
[Sidenote: Leader’s tail over reins.] If one of the leaders gets his
tail over the reins, never pull at it, but, on the contrary, slack it
out. Pull the wheelers across to that side on which the offender is
running; then hit the wheeler on the opposite side, on his neck, when
the movement of the wheelers to one side will probably clear the rein.
[Sidenote: Loosen rein fixed under tail by hitting horse.] Another plan
for getting the rein out is to slack it a good deal, and give the horse
a sharp hit with the whip behind the pad; this will nearly always cause
him to swish his tail, when you can pull the rein quickly away.
If both the above methods fail, stop the coach at once, when a man must
get down and release the rein by lifting up the leader’s tail, and not
by pulling the rein away from under it.
[Sidenote: To prevent leader getting tail over a rein.] With a horse
that habitually gets his tail over the reins and then kicks, it is a
good plan to run the lead rein either through the throat-lash, or the
inside loop of the bearing-rein of the wheeler which is on the opposite
side of the coach to the kicking leader.
The reins can also be run through the head terrets or loops on the top
of the wheelers’ heads, but if this is done it is better to use a
bearing-rein, because, if the horse shakes his head up and down, he will
inevitably jerk the leader in the mouth.
These terrets have been almost entirely done away with, as, if the
leaders pull, they put a great strain on the wheelers’ heads, and if the
latter throw their heads up and down to any great extent, they
continually jerk the leader’s mouths, [Sidenote: Objection to lead reins
passing through head terrets.] whereas by passing the lead reins through
the ring on the throat-lash of the wheeler there is almost a straight
pull from the leaders’ mouths to the terrets on the pads of the
wheelers.
[Sidenote: Side reins.] Side reins are sometimes useful on leaders, and
have a good effect on hard-mouthed horses.
If on the outside, they should be fixed to the buckle of the horse’s own
trace, but on the inside to that of the other horse.
A very useful kind of side rein has a brass ring sewn into one end of it
instead of a buckle; a short strap or loop is passed through this ring
and buckled to each side of the bit, while the other end of the rein is
buckled to the inside trace of the other horse.
The ordinary rein used by the Artillery Driver on his off horse will do
equally well. This consists of a long rein buckled to the outside of the
bit, and a short coupling piece to the inside. If a horse pulls very
hard and tries to get in front of the other horse, either of these reins
will bring all the pull on to his bit and keep him in his place.
[Sidenote: Fitting coupling reins.] The leaders’ coupling reins should
not be made too long or else the horses’ tails may get fixed in them—a
position from which it will be found that they are extricated with
difficulty. The buckles should come to within six or eight inches of the
top of the leaders’ tails, which allows plenty of room for taking up or
letting out these reins.
[Sidenote: To prevent buckle of coupling rein getting fixed in terret.]
Have a runner fixed about a foot below the buckle on the rein, through
which the coupling should be passed; this will prevent any chance of the
buckle getting through the terret. Messrs. Whippy and Steggall of London
have invented another simple device to prevent this danger occurring.
They place a short steel plate, about five inches long, covered with
leather, and the same width as the reins, between the rein and the
coupling. One end has a hole which passes through the tongue of the
buckle, and the other has a runner on it, through which the coupling
passes, so as to admit of this rein being altered. They also place two
keepers on the rein just below the buckle. By this means the steel plate
would be drawn across the terret and the buckle could not possibly get
through. For the fitting of coupling reins the reader must refer to
Chapter III.
[Sidenote: To prevent wheelers cutting corners.] In order to prevent the
wheel horses from rushing too quickly round a corner, which they very
often try to do, it is usual to catch hold either of both off or
near-side reins with the right hand, on the opposite side to which you
are turning, after having looped.
When looping a wheel rein for the opposition point, take hold of the off
rein from outside, but the near rein from above the two off reins.
[Sidenote: Keep tight hold of horse’s head when hitting him.] When
striking a horse be careful to keep a tight hold of him, as the whole
effect of the punishment will be lost if the reins are slack or are
allowed to slip.
[Sidenote: Buckles of wheel reins should be close to hands.] The buckles
of the wheelers’ reins should be well within reach, but should not be so
far up as to come into the hand when going down a steep hill or when
pulling up. A foot from the hand when the horses are in draught will be
found to be about right.
[Sidenote: Cruppers unnecessary except with bearing-reins.] Cruppers
will be found quite unnecessary as a general rule, more especially on
the leaders, but if bearing-reins are used, it is almost imperative to
have them on, in order to prevent the pads being pulled forward on to
the withers, and so galling the horses.
Be careful not to have any spare end of the crupper-strap hanging loose,
or the lead rein will be apt to get caught in it, and give trouble. For
this reason it is a good plan to have the cruppers made martingale
fashion, as they have no spare ends, and only one runner is required.
[Sidenote: Reins should be of equal thickness.] Both lead and wheel
reins should be exactly the same width and thickness, and should on no
account be short. This is extremely dangerous, as they might be easily
dropped. It is much better to have them very long, but about two or
three feet of spare rein will usually be found sufficient.
[Sidenote: Leaders flying apart.] When leaders are inclined to fly away
from each other, or one of them hangs outwards, the inside traces should
be lapped round each other and hooked into their own bars. This will
help to keep the horses together. It is not a good plan, though it is
sometimes done, to fasten the leaders’ bars together by a chain as, if a
horse kicks, and gets his legs fixed up between the main bar and the
others, it becomes a very difficult matter to extricate him.
[Sidenote: Spare gear should be carried.] The following spare articles
should always be carried on a coach:—
Two swingle-trees—one large and one small.
Two traces—one lead and one wheel.
A jointed whip fixed up on a board. A leather bag containing a hand
punch with assorted bits, and a McMahon spanner.
[Sidenote: Brushing boots.] Brushing boots. Those made of fairly thick
blanket will be found the most useful. They must be long enough to go
right over the fetlock and overlap, and should be fastened round the
middle with tape and be deep enough for the upper part to be folded down
over the knot.
Collar-pads—several leather ones are required.
Sheepskin—a good-sized piece.
Needle and waxed thread.
A few spare straps and buckles.
A few cheek leathers.
[Sidenote: False collars.] False collars, which can either be made of
leather or numnah, often come in very handy. The advantage of the latter
material over the former consists in its being softer, and in the event
of a gall a piece can easily be cut out; but, on the other hand, it
requires a more roomy collar.
[Sidenote: Alter bits when team pulling.] If the team are pulling too
hard, stop them occasionally and alter the bits. Lowering these in the
horses’ mouths often has a wonderful effect. You can also tighten the
curb-chains, or put the reins lower down on the bits. Do not pull at
your horses more than you can help, but directly you feel that they are
getting the best of you stop at once, and if possible give them up to
another driver. [Sidenote: Pace should suit the slowest horse.] If three
of the team can go ten miles an hour, and the fourth horse only eight,
keep the three back to the slow one, for you cannot make him go up to
the others without galloping. When, however, you are on a road coach, it
is better to let the slow horse gallop than to lose time.
[Sidenote: Galloping.] Galloping should not be attempted by the novice,
for until he has learnt to take a good steady hold of the horses’ heads
it is really very dangerous, not only on account of the rapid pace, but
because the coach will almost certainly be set rocking in a very
uncomfortable manner, and may eventually be upset. [Sidenote: How to
prevent coach rocking.] When a coach is found to be rocking, give the
leaders a little more rein, so that their traces may place a more
constant strain on the pole, which will then be steadied. Then take hold
of the horses’ heads and slow down gradually.
[Sidenote: Horse’s likes and dislikes.] If possible try and find out
what a horse likes and dislikes so as to avoid irritating him. The sound
of the horn annoys many horses terribly, and makes them pull. Sometimes
this can be got over by constantly blowing the horn in the stable. Some
hate the sound of the whip, so try and use it very quietly. Others
dislike the sound of heavy carts rattling past them, and are in that
case best placed on the near side.
[Sidenote: Judging pace.] To become a really good judge of pace is most
difficult, but it is very important, and can only be learned by constant
and steady practice.
[Sidenote: Team wobbling.] To drive neatly the horses must above all
things be kept going straight along the road, with the wheelers exactly
behind the leaders. Always save your cattle as much as possible, and to
this end never let them wobble across the road. In some teams this
tendency to wobble is great, and must be checked at once. This can only
be done by continually watching them. [Sidenote: Coach wobbling, apply
grease.] One great cause of the coach wobbling is the fore-carriage
moving stiffly, owing to grit or mud having found its way in between the
plates—a state of affairs which can easily be remedied by a plentiful
application of grease.
[Sidenote: Steering team like steering a ship.] Any such movement should
be anticipated in the same manner that a good helmsman anticipates the
swing of his ship, with a slight motion of the rudder, as by so doing he
is never obliged to put his helm hard over. The unaccustomed hand always
waits too long, till the ship has already swung, and then is obliged to
use a great deal of helm—the result being that he makes his course into
a series of zigzags.
In the same way a very slight pressure applied on the reins at the right
time will keep the horses going perfectly straight and true, without any
pulling or jerking.
[Illustration: FIG. 33.—RIGHT HAND ASSISTING LEFT (ON THREE REINS
ONLY).]
[Sidenote: Treating four reins as if only three.] To attain this end it
is very convenient to treat the four reins as if there were only three,
the two off-side reins being treated as one and always kept together
(fig. 33). Then all that is necessary is to place the third and fourth
fingers on the off-side reins, and the middle finger on the near leader
to check the tendency of the leaders to run to the right or of the
wheelers to the left, or else the middle finger on the near wheeler
(fig. 33), to check the tendency of the leaders to run to the left or
the wheelers to the right. This cannot be too strongly impressed on the
reader, as the right hand has to be more frequently used in this way
than in any other.
[Sidenote: Watching an omnibus driver is a good lesson.] A very good and
inexpensive lesson in driving may be obtained by riding on the box seat
of an omnibus by the side of a good driver through the most crowded
parts of London. The driver has not only to gauge his own pace
accurately, but also that of the other vehicles he is meeting and
passing.
[Sidenote: Judging pace of other carriages.] This renders it absolutely
necessary for him to keep his eyes looking well to the front and not
always riveted on the horses, otherwise he will be unable to judge
exactly the relative positions of his own and the other vehicles on the
road, all of which, at any given moment, will most probably be moving at
different rates of speed.
These things have to be calculated to a nicety and almost
instantaneously, if the coachman wishes to wend his way at a steady and
a fairly uniform pace through the busy traffic of crowded thoroughfares
like those of the Metropolis.
[Sidenote: Change of pace must be gradual.] When he finds that it would
be impossible to get through by continuing at an even pace, he must
either go faster or slow down. But in either case the change of speed
should be gradual, so as to avoid any sudden jerks.
[Sidenote: Pulling up with jerk, bad driving.] To be obliged frequently
to pull up with a jerk not only indicates bad driving, but causes the
greatest discomfort to both passengers and horses. Many London coachmen
are in the habit of treating their passengers in this way, with the
result that they are perpetually jolted out of their seats and
experience sensations which are both unpleasant and irritating.
The reason is not far to seek—these coachmen are bad judges of pace,
interval, and distance, and do not see till too late whether it is
possible to get through or not. They first hit their horses to try and
get through, and then at the last moment finding it impossible are
obliged to pull up suddenly. With a heavy coach it is impossible to pull
up at once, so that the chances are a collision will occur.
[Sidenote: How to judge width of coach.] The width of a coach is judged
as far as the driver is concerned by the leaders’ bars. They are always,
or they ought to be, rather wider than the pipe boxes of the wheels, so
that the driver knows with the greatest certainty that wherever his bars
will pass his coach will pass also, always provided that he is going
straight. If he is on a curve he will have to make some allowance for
his hind wheels, as their track will pass a little inside that of the
fore.
[Sidenote: In passing give room to other carriages.] When passing a
carriage do not move across the road more than is necessary, but at the
same time, once having overtaken it, do not pull across its front until
well clear, unless compelled to do so. It is considered bad form to
oblige another driver to slow down unnecessarily. Begin to cross in
plenty of time, so as to make the incline as gradual as possible, and
thus avoid pulling at the horses. It is far better and safer for the
beginner to give himself plenty of room, and to slow down at once if he
is not certain of getting through. Nothing should be left to chance.
[Sidenote: Take a pull before going down hill.] Always take a pull at
the horses to steady them just before you arrive at the crest of a hill,
and begin to descend the other side slowly. The pace can always be
increased, but it is most difficult to check it if you find that you
have too much way on.
In crossing over a bridge, like the ordinary canal bridge, where the
rise and fall of the road are very sharp, be careful the leaders are out
of draught, otherwise the jerk on the pole might cause it to snap.
[Sidenote: The break.] As regards the break, the driver should put it on
and take it off himself, as no one else can tell the exact moment when
it is required or when it can be dispensed with; but with the beginner,
who probably has quite as much as he can do to manage the reins, it is
advisable to have assistance. It should be put on, as a rule, before the
coach is actually on the incline, and, if another hill has to be
ascended immediately, it should be taken off before actually arriving at
the bottom, in order to take advantage of the way on the coach to assist
in mounting the opposite ascent.
[Sidenote: Coming off racecourse.] When coming off a racecourse with a
heavy load never pull up if it can possibly be avoided, but keep moving
at any price, however slowly, the wheels will then never have time to
sink deeply into the ground. When this happens with a team that is
inclined to jib, it is long odds against getting started again without a
considerable loss of time.
[Sidenote: On slippery stones or asphalt.] When coming on to slippery
stones or asphalt the horses will require holding rather more firmly
than before, and it is advisable to slow down a little when approaching
a corner, otherwise the wheelers are liable to slip up in turning it.
[Sidenote: Wheeler slipping going down hill.] If, while going down a
hill, and especially when near the bottom, you find a wheeler slipping
on to his hocks, do not try to pull him up, but drop your hand and allow
the team to go a trifle faster.
[Sidenote: Place right hand on reins passing startling objects.] It is a
good plan for the novice to accustom himself to place his right hand on
the reins when passing anything on the road, or any object by the side
of it, which might startle the horses, so as to be ready to check them
at once should they show any tendency to shy in either direction.
Naturally the beginner will find that it takes some little time for his
right hand to get into the habit of instinctively seizing the proper
reins when a sudden emergency arises, and accidents occur so very
quickly that I think these precautions may save him from many a mishap.
_Experientia docet._
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: FIG. 34.—TANDEM WITHOUT BARS.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER X
TANDEM DRIVING.
[Sidenote: Principles of tandem driving.] THE fundamental principles of
tandem driving are very naturally almost the same as those of driving a
coach. But the chief difference between the two styles arises from the
fact that both horses in a tandem turn much more quickly and with far
less pressure on the reins, more especially the leader, than the pair of
horses, either wheel or lead, in a coach. Furthermore, the tendency to
wobble about the road is much greater, necessitating a much more
frequent use of the right hand; so that it really requires greater
quickness and lighter hands to drive a tandem than a coach. [Sidenote:
Great nicety and quickness required.] On the other hand, a tandem can
turn on its own ground and everything is in front of the driver, whereas
a coach requires a large space to turn in, and often a good allowance
has to be made for the hind wheels.
[Sidenote: Advantages of tandem.] One of the greatest recommendations of
a tandem is that it is well within the reach of many who cannot afford a
team. The small extra expense and trouble which the leader entails are
fully compensated for by the extra enjoyment which everyone feels when
driving behind a perfect and well-appointed tandem.
[Sidenote: Idea of tandem being dangerous is erroneous.] It is quite a
mistake to suppose that a tandem is necessarily a very dangerous
turn-out to sit behind. It is nothing of the sort, if driven by an
experienced coachman and the horses are fairly trained.
Of course horses that have never been driven in single harness cannot be
safe in a tandem. [Sidenote: Almost any horse will go in tandem.] But
almost every horse that will go in single harness, and some that will
not, will make perfectly safe leaders with very little teaching. It must
be thoroughly understood that there is an immense difference between the
terms a perfectly safe leader and a perfect leader. A horse may be a
perfectly quiet animal, which will not kick, nor do anything that will
get one into difficulties or danger, but yet be a terrible slug. This
would altogether prevent one driving him rapidly through traffic;
therefore, though a perfectly safe animal, he is not a perfect
[Sidenote: Frequent use of right hand necessary.] leader. As mentioned
above, it is necessary to use the right hand very frequently when
driving a tandem, in order to immediately check every tendency the
leader may have to [Sidenote: Follow leader if he turns suddenly.] cross
the road or to turn round a corner. But if by any chance the leader has
got well on the turn before you are able to check him, do not then try
and do so, but apply the principle of “Follow my leader” at once. Follow
after him, and when the horses are straight turn round and come back
again. Do just the same if you are standing still, and the leader
suddenly comes right round. Whilst turning the wheeler, back him if
possible, so as to give the leader plenty of room. By this means you
will never get the leader tied in an inextricable knot.
If it is not possible to follow the leader round, hit him on the side of
the head with the whip, which will probably induce him to get back into
his place.
[Sidenote: Position of left hand and method of holding reins.] The left
hand should be held in the same position as when driving four horses,
and the reins held in precisely the same way, but as these matters have
been thoroughly discussed in a previous chapter it is unnecessary to go
into them again here.
[Sidenote: Position of right hand when on reins.] The right hand ought
to be placed on the reins in front of the left, with the little and
third fingers together over the two off-side reins, the middle finger
over the near-wheel, and the first finger over the near-lead (fig. 35);
all the reins will then be under the immediate control of the right
hand.
[Illustration: FIG. 35.—TANDEM—POSITION OF RIGHT HAND ON REINS.]
The two off-side reins should in all cases, except for a sharp back turn
to the right, be treated as one rein, and always kept under the little
and third fingers of the right hand. [Sidenote: Three-rein principle.]
This, which may be termed the three-rein principle, will be found to
simplify matters very considerably, owing to there being practically
only three reins to think about instead of four.
[Sidenote: Difficult to get right hand quickly into the reins.] The
beginner will experience considerable difficulty at first in passing his
right hand quickly on and through the reins in the proper manner, the
reason being that they are all close together, much more so than with
four horses, so that he is obliged to stretch the right hand much
further forward in order to get it in between them. For this reason,
carry your hand well out to the front, where the reins open out a
little, and when once you have hold of them correctly slide it back
towards the body. It looks very awkward to drive with the right hand
held out a long way from the left, and it is also quite unnecessary.
[Sidenote: Always keep right hand on reins at night. ] For those who
have not much experience, it is far better to keep the right hand always
on the reins, and particularly so at night, when the hand should never
be taken away unless it is required for the purpose of using the whip.
Rarely pull one rein singly, as described for pointing the leaders in a
coach, except when looping a lead rein in order to turn a sharp corner,
or to execute a quick bend to get through traffic. If you pull a rein
singly, especially a lead rein, you are very likely to overdo it or jerk
it.
[Sidenote: Never pull rein as if ringing a bell.] Never jerk a rein at
all except in an emergency, but apply the pressure steadily and
gradually. The only excuse for “ringing the bell” with a rein is when
driving a slug which is not going quite up to his bit, when you want to
turn a corner.
It is generally advisable, whenever possible, to advance a few paces
before turning round in a road from the halt. The best methods of
avoiding any jerking when going round corners with free-going horses are
as follows:—
[Sidenote: Turning to the left.] To turn to the left, slide the right
hand slightly to the front and catch hold of the near-lead rein with the
forefinger, and then bring the right hand back towards the left,
allowing the other fingers to slide over, but not to move away from
their proper reins. The near-lead rein will then be looped under the
first finger (fig. 36). When the leader is turning nicely round the
corner, tighten the little and third fingers on the off-side reins, and
apply as much pressure as is necessary by turning the wrist away from
the body; thus bringing the little finger closer to it. This will have
the effect of checking any tendency of the leader to turn too fast,
while also preventing the wheeler from following round too quickly after
him, and cutting the corner.
[Illustration: FIG. 36.—TANDEM—TURNING TO THE LEFT.]
If the wheeler is still turning too fast, drop the left hand towards the
right, which will slack the near-wheel rein and so keep him off to the
right, or away from the corner. Should the leader not turn quickly
enough, seize the loop which is held by the forefinger of the right hand
with the left thumb, retaining it there in the same manner as previously
described for “pointing” a rein. Another loop can then be taken up as
before, which will bring the leader round as fast as is desired.
[Sidenote: Best method of turning to right.] To turn to the right, slide
the right hand to the front, and with the middle finger seize the
near-wheel rein; draw the hand back about an inch or two, still
retaining a grip of the near-wheel, but sliding the fingers over the
other reins. This is done in order to prevent the wheeler coming round
too quickly. Then tighten the little and third fingers on the off-side
reins, and press strongly on them (fig. 37). This will have the effect
of bringing the leader round to the right. If the leader is not coming
round sufficiently fast, turn the back of the left hand down gradually,
this will enable you to turn him with the greatest nicety.
[Illustration: FIG. 37.—TANDEM—TURNING TO THE RIGHT.]
The above methods are especially recommended, as they entirely do away
with the necessity of taking the right hand out of the reins for looping
purposes, the great danger of which is that it is almost impossible to
get the right hand back between them quickly enough to prevent the
wheeler cutting the corner, if he is at all inclined to do so, or to
check the leader if he is coming round too rapidly. The horses turn so
quickly, that the wheeler can see the leader coming round almost before
the lead rein can be seized with the left thumb, and tandem reins being
very close together, it is difficult for the right hand to catch the
wheeler’s rein in time to check him. The fact is that several things
have to be done simultaneously, or nearly so, to obtain perfection, and
the manipulation of the reins is then, as I have often heard it
expressed, somewhat like playing the harp. Of course with very sluggish
horses the reins can be looped in the same manner as when driving four
horses, but as a rule less rein must be taken up, or the leader will
come round and look you in the face. Therefore you must always be ready
to pull the opposite rein, and so check the horse from going too far
round.
[Sidenote: Proper time to turn leader at a corner.] Practice alone will
enable one to hit off exactly the proper moment to turn the leader when
a sharp corner has to be negotiated. Perhaps the best general guide is
to give the leader the office when his head is abreast of the centre of
the road to be turned down. More than this it is useless to say, as
everything depends on the width of the road and the angle of the turn.
It is, however, always a safe thing to take as much room as possible,
and it is therefore a good plan before arriving at the corner to pass
off to the opposite side of the road, provided the traffic will allow
this to be done.
[Sidenote: Quickness of handling reins necessary in traffic.] In order
to turn corners nicely with the wheeler going over the same ground as
the leader, and not shuffling round anyhow, or to go in and out rapidly
through traffic like that of London, requires the utmost nicety and
quickness of handling, and also that the horses be well trained to keep
constantly up to their bits, and to feel even the lightest pressure and
answer to it at once. [Sidenote: Horses should answer to pressure of
driver’s hands at once.] When you drop your hand to them, they should at
once increase their pace until you come back to the original pressure,
but the moment more than this is put on they should at once check their
pace. They should also willingly go into an omnibus if driven there, and
never shy off. Such is a perfect tandem, but one most difficult to find.
[Sidenote: Tendency to slow down.] A beginner at tandem driving, and
even some who have had a certain amount of practice in driving four
horses, will usually find the tandem has a great tendency to slow down,
and that a considerable amount of whip is required to keep the horses up
to the proper pace. This tendency will be found to disappear if a
practised hand takes the reins, without the aid of the whip. A want of
lightness of hand is usually the cause, and a want of give and take to
the horses’ mouths. Probably the wrist is kept too stiff, and the
pressure on the horses’ mouths is as a result uneven, too much being
applied at one moment and not enough the next. To keep an even feeling
on the horses’ mouths the hand must be allowed to move backwards and
forwards a little, and there should be plenty of play from the wrist.
[Sidenote: Effect of altering centre reins.] When you find that the
leader is going off to the left, and the wheeler to the right, it is
usually right to push the two centre reins back a little through the
left hand from the front with the right hand, using the whole hand to do
it with.
[Sidenote: Reins must be held firmly.] If, on the contrary, the leader
is bearing off to the right, and the wheeler to the left, you must then
pull the two centre reins out a little until they, _i.e._, the horses,
are straight. You must remember that, although you are using the right
hand a great deal, the reins must none the less all the time be held
very firmly in the left, and not allowed to slip in the least; so that
at any moment you should be able to take the right hand off the reins
and the horses should still be going exactly one behind the other, with
all the reins tight, the left wrist turned in towards the body with the
back of the hand to the front and almost perpendicular.
This position of the left hand is of great importance, as by turning the
back down or up respectively a great deal can be done in the way of
directing the leader to the right or left without any assistance from
the right hand. [Sidenote: Thumb and forefinger always ready to take up
loop.] The thumb should be nearly parallel to the front, and like the
first finger should be ready at any time to take up and hold a loop of
either lead rein; therefore these fingers should never be busy gripping
the reins. [Sidenote: Third and fourth fingers must grip reins tightly.]
The whole four reins should be held firmly in position by the grip of
the third and little finger, slightly assisted by the middle finger.
To get horses, which have never been in [Sidenote: Tendency to form a
pair.] tandem before, exactly to follow one behind the other, requires
considerable skill and patience, as it will be found that their common
tendency is to get one alongside the other, the wheeler as a rule being
anxious to run up alongside the leader. This tendency to form a pair
must be checked at once, but without any jerking or hurried pulling at
the reins.
[Sidenote: Do not worry leader.] The leader should be worried as little
as possible; therefore, do not pull him across the road more than you
can avoid, particularly at first, but try to make the wheeler follow
him, and you will find that if they are fairly well-disposed horses they
will soon fall in with the idea of following one another.
[Sidenote: Constant use of whip shows bad coachman.] Do not use the whip
perpetually; try and work the horses chiefly with your hands, and to a
certain extent by your voice. For instance, when starting them give them
the office by slightly feeling their mouths with the reins and
immediately shouting “Go on,” or something to that effect, momentarily
dropping your hand to them in order to avoid any jibbing while getting
under way. The horses will very quickly understand this, and the use of
the whip will be unnecessary. [Sidenote: Wheeler should start cart.]
Remember, however, that the wheeler should start the cart; therefore be
ready to touch him with the whip, if he hangs back; if, however, he is
inclined to jib, it may be better to allow the leader to assist him.
With raw and nervous horses a good start is everything. Watch the leader
carefully, and when you see him starting get the wheeler off at once by
using the whip if he is not moving off at the same time. When pulling
up, I think it is always a good plan to say “Whoa.” They very soon learn
to obey the voice, and it often comes in handy.
[Sidenote: Encourage horse with voice.] If a horse shies, speak to him
at once and encourage him, but on no account hit him or you will confirm
him in the habit. He does it nearly always from nervousness, or from
defective vision, and not from devilry. [Sidenote: Never hit a shyer.] A
shyer will often go perfectly in the wheel of a tandem and never shy at
all, but is never safe in the lead. I am also a believer in rating a
horse soundly when he does wrong, and especially when you are hitting
him, as the next time you rate him he will think he is going to feel the
whip, and be very careful at once.
[Sidenote: Returning lash after hitting leader.] In a dog-cart, when you
have hit your leader, bring the lash back and catch it quickly with a
turn round the stick by a slight jerk, or bring it straight into the
fingers of your right hand by the same motion. You can then at once
bring it well into the cart, and get your hand back on the reins. This
last is a very important matter, as when the leader is hit he generally
takes to pulling for a few yards, and your whip hand is much needed on
the reins to steady him.
On the other hand, it is very unsafe to bring your right hand on to the
reins unless the lash has been brought well into the cart, as it may
easily be caught up round the axle or get under the wheel; and, as a
rule, if the wheel goes over it, it will break off at that spot next
time you use it.
It is often very convenient to have the whip ready to hit the leader at
a particular place or corner which he is likely to want to go round. To
do this unwind the lash, and keep the point of the stick out to the
right front. The lash can then fly loose and do no harm, unless the wind
is blowing across from right to left.
[Sidenote: Check pace before going down hill.] Always check the pace
before reaching the crest of a hill which you are about to descend, as
when once on the downward slope this may not be possible, whereas to
increase the pace is easy enough. When going down a hill it will be
necessary to shorten up all four reins, either by pulling them through
from behind with the thumb and forefinger (fig. 4), or by placing the
right hand on the reins as before explained and sliding the left up to
it (fig. 35). Sometimes it will be found necessary when going down a
very steep hill to pull back the leader a little, [Sidenote: Leader out
of draught down hill.] but as a rule the mere fact of the wheeler coming
out of draught to hold back the cart will necessitate the shortening of
all the reins, which will bring the leader sufficiently out of his
collar to prevent him pulling on the traces.
[Sidenote: Shortening lead reins.] The leader’s reins can be shortened
either by taking out both the lead reins with the right hand (fig. 32),
the near lead under the first or second finger, the off lead under the
little finger, and then replacing them in the left hand, or else by
pushing them through from the front with the right hand in front of the
left, the latter being usually far the best plan.
[Sidenote: Leader doing too much work.] While on this subject, it may be
well to remark that the novice is usually inclined to allow the leader
to do a great deal too much work. The traces should never be quite taut
except when going up a hill, and then the leader may be allowed to do
his best. The result of allowing the leader to do all the work on the
flat is that the wheeler soon learns to hang back, and thus makes his
companion pull him along as well as the cart, and when this happens it
is almost impossible to [Sidenote: Turning while going up hill.]
negotiate a sharp turn safely. From this it is evident that, when going
up a hill with the leader well in draught, he must be taken out of the
collar before a turn is attempted, otherwise the wheeler will be forced
to cut the corner.
From this chapter it will be seen, that although the general principles
of driving a tandem are the same as those of driving four horses, yet
there are many minor points of difference, which the man, who wishes to
drive both with equal skill, must carefully study and practise.
One very notable difference, which may be pointed out again, is the
greater lightness and quickness of handling necessary to guide a tandem
with ease and safety through difficult places.
Tandem is therefore admirably adapted for ladies who are fond of
driving, as it affords all the interest of a team, without placing any
undue strain on their strength or powers of endurance, while it enables
them to exercise those qualities of quickness and lightness of hands, in
which as a rule they surpass men.
The whole art of driving is composed of innumerable small, though most
important details, but probably no other class of driving requires so
much attention to be paid to these minutiæ as Tandem.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: FIG. 38.—TANDEM WITH BARS.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER XI
TANDEM HARNESS.
[Sidenote: Best kind of harness simple and light.] THE harness should be
as simple and as light as possible, consistent with strength. The colour
is a matter of taste and convenience, but perhaps for country work brown
with brass mounts is the most suitable, whereas for driving in the Park
black harness is almost _de rigueur_. Certainly for soldiers at home,
and more especially abroad, brown is far the most useful, because it is
a part of every mounted soldier’s training to clean this kind of
leather.
[Sidenote: Wheel harness.] The wheeler’s harness is an ordinary single
set with one or two trifling additions, none of which are absolutely
necessary. These are two brass rings or loops fixed under the trace
buckles, into which are fastened the spring hooks of the leader’s
traces, and terrets on the pad divided by a roller to separate the
reins. For the former short pieces of leather can be substituted, which
have holes punched in one end, through which the tongues of the trace
buckles pass, while at the other end are sewn metal rings to take the
hooks of the leader’s traces. [Sidenote: Lead harness.] The leader
should have a pad of rather lighter make than the wheeler, with two
fixed leather loops, one at each side, for the traces to run through.
There must also be a bearing-strap passing over the horse’s loins, and
this should be just long enough to keep the traces level.
[Sidenote: Lead traces.] The traces are usually made long enough to be
fixed to the loops on the wheeler’s traces, as already described. This
is the simplest and most economical plan, but another method consists in
having two swingle bars, by means of which the leader’s traces can be
reduced to the same length as those of the wheeler.
[Sidenote: Swingle bars.] The first of these bars, which is about two
feet six inches in length, has a large hook about five inches long fixed
in its front, and a light chain about one foot long attached at the
back. The chain is hooked to a ring in the bottom of the wheeler’s
hames, and is intended to prevent the bar from falling down. At each end
of the bar are two short traces about two feet long, which hook into the
wheeler’s trace in the same way as previously described for the long
ones.
[Sidenote: Advantages of swingle bars over long traces.] The second bar
is a light swingle-tree about two feet in length, having an eyelet to
attach it to the hook of the other bar.
Advocates for this system claim that it is less dangerous than the
other, because neither horse can get a leg over the trace, nor can a
trace wrap round the leader’s quarter if he swings suddenly round to
study the view in rear. The second method however entails more expense
and trouble than the first, which with careful driving need rarely be
the cause of accidents.
[Sidenote: Traces hooked to shafts dangerous.] The leader’s traces are
sometimes hooked to the points of the shafts, but as this is a most
dangerous system it should never be employed.
I have seen tandem traces extemporized out of ordinary single-harness
traces and pole chains, the latter bridging the gap between the
wheeler’s traces and the leader’s. This arrangement looked very smart,
but must make the lead traces too heavy.
[Sidenote: Breast harness.] Although not so smart as a collar, breast
harness can be used in tandem equally as well as in single harness, and
as it can be adjusted to fit any horse its use avoids the necessity of
spending money on numerous collars. It also comes in very useful when a
horse’s shoulders have been wrung by a collar (see Chap. I.).
[Sidenote: Length of lead traces.] The length of the leader’s traces
should depend on the length of the horses and also on their action. They
should be as short as possible, but not so short as to make the wheeler
appear to be stepping on the leader. Three feet from nose to croup seems
to be about the right distance when the leader is in draught.
[Sidenote: Hooking up lead traces.] While on the subject of the leader’s
traces it may be well to point out that the best way to hook them up,
when putting to or taking out the leader, is to pass the end of the
trace from outside under and over itself just in front of the
bearing-strap, and then fasten the hook to the ring of the hames.
[Sidenote: How to fasten up lead reins.] As regards the fastening up of
the lead reins, it is usual to take a loop in the end of the rein and
pass it through the terrets of both pad and hames, so adjusting it that
no spare end hangs down by itself. The loop will be about the right
length if the end of the rein is brought up to the terret on the pad,
the end of the loop thus made being then put through the terrets as
described above.
[Sidenote: Driving bits.] The best bits for all-round work are either
the Liverpool or the elbow-bits, [Sidenote: Wheeler’s bit.] but the
wheeler’s should be made with a light bar across the bottom of the cheek
pieces. This prevents the wheeler from catching the lead rein under the
end of the cheek piece, which constantly happens if he is inclined to
shake his head about, and has the effect of pulling the leader sharply
to one side. [Sidenote: Bit catching in rein.] It is, moreover, very
difficult to get the rein free when caught in this way without getting
down. I think, as a rule, it is a good plan to pass the lead reins
through the loops of the bearing-rein of the wheeler, instead of through
D’s fixed on his [Sidenote: Lead reins through bearing-rein loops.]
head-collar or throat-lash. The loops should hang down about four
inches, and be quite loose, so that the wheeler can toss his head to a
considerable extent without violently jerking the leader in the mouth.
It is unnecessary to pass the reins through the terrets on the hames, as
bringing them straight back to those on the pad gives a better lead.
Of course, if the wheeler habitually shakes his head about very much,
either up or down, or both, then a martingale and a bearing-rein must be
put on, which will effectually stop his little game.
[Sidenote: Lead reins never to be buckled.] Never drive with the lead
reins buckled, as, if the leader breaks either the traces, or the bar
(if he has one), by kicking or falling, the reins will run through the
terrets, and the horse can then get clear away, and a worse accident be
avoided. [Sidenote: Leader’s tail over rein.] Should the leader get his
tail over a rein, a good way of getting it clear is to pull the wheeler
well across to the side on which the rein is fast, and the leader rather
over to the opposite side, slacking at the same time the fixed rein as
much as possible. By this manœuvre the rein will often come loose. If it
does not, try hitting the leader on the quarter with the whip, when he
will probably swish his tail and allow the rein to drop.
[Sidenote: Tandem whip.] The whip is generally a rather lighter and
shorter one than that used for four horses, though the same can
perfectly well be used. The usual lengths of stick and lash are about
five and ten feet respectively. As to the correct method of holding and
handling it the reader must kindly refer to a former chapter, where it
is fully discussed. The principles are obviously exactly the same.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: FIG. 39.—LONGEING WITH LONG REINS.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER XII
BREAKING TO HARNESS.
[Sidenote: Accustom horse to harness in stable.] IN conclusion, a few
hints as to breaking a horse to harness may be useful to those who have
had no experience in giving a young horse his first lessons. In the
first place, it is a good plan to put the harness on in the stable, and
let the horse stand with it on for a time, with his head on the pillar
reins.
In India I found that with Australian horses, even those trained to
military draught, it was absolutely necessary to accustom them to
blinkers before attempting to drive them. They should be made to stand
in their stables, fed and taken out to water, and exercised with
blinkers on, previously to their being driven for the first time,
otherwise they will almost invariably jib.
[Sidenote: Longeing with long reins.] After the pupil is accustomed to
his harness, he should be taken out and longed with two long reins (fig.
39), never with one only. These can be conveniently made of webbing,
like a common single longeing rein, but the lead reins of a tandem will
also answer the purpose. The horse should have a body roller on with two
rings or loops about half way down each side, though an ordinary
single-harness driving pad with the tugs on, or a saddle with the
stirrup irons fixed up for loops, can be substituted. In all cases a
crupper should be used.
[Sidenote: Use snaffle and martingale.] It is always advisable to have a
fairly loose standing martingale on the bit, which should be a large
smooth snaffle, the martingale being so adjusted that it will keep the
bit on the bars of the mouth, and will not allow the horse to get his
head up sufficiently high to cause the bit to press only on the corners
of his lips.
[Sidenote: Bearing-straps.] It is also advisable to put on
bearing-straps like those of a tandem leader, in order to keep up the
reins. The long reins should be passed through the loops of the
bearing-straps, then through the rings on the roller, the tugs on the
pad, or the stirrup irons of the saddle, as the case may be, and then
buckled on to the bit.
[Sidenote: Use whip when longeing.] The horse can now be driven about
and be kept up to his bit with the whip, which the operator should
always have in his hand.
Keep him circling with the outer rein round his quarters above his
hocks. This will teach him to go collectedly, and enable the driver to
keep his quarters well in towards the centre, preventing him from
passing off sideways like a crab. It is impossible to attain this object
with a single rein, which also would have the effect of teaching him to
go on his shoulders.
Another point about having the rein against the horse’s quarters is that
it teaches him not to kick at the trace or breeching.
[Sidenote: Do not longe too long on one rein.] If he should very much
resent having the outer rein on his hocks, begin by driving him with
this rein over his back. He should not be kept circling too long on one
rein, but be often changed from one side to the other. If, however, one
side of his mouth is harder than the other, he should be made to turn to
that side for a longer period, until he turns equally well both ways.
When the horse has learnt to answer the rein at once, and turn equally
well to both sides, he should be taught to rein back.
When this has been successfully accomplished, bring him out with his
harness on and long traces like lead tandem traces.
[Sidenote: Have two men pulling against traces.] Tell off two men to
hang on to these while he is being driven about. By this means the
amount of pressure can be regulated, and as only a small amount need be
applied to begin with, the horse will become gradually accustomed to
pulling with his shoulders. It is impossible to begin too gradually;
although some horses can be taken out of the stable and put into a break
or a coach at [Sidenote: Jibbing taught by undue hurry.] once and will
go fairly well, others will be rendered jibbers for ever by this too
hurried process.
[Sidenote: Horse-breaking in India.] In India a young horse is generally
given his first lessons harnessed to a block of wood. The block of wood
is triangular in shape, and in front of it is fixed a long splinter bar.
The horse’s traces are hitched to this, and the breaker, standing on the
block of wood, drives his pupil about until he is quiet enough to be put
in a cart. A short pole, with a cross bar at the top like a parrot’s
perch, is fixed to the front of the block, to enable the driver to
steady himself and prevent his being jolted off.
This is not at all a bad way of breaking a horse, as he cannot do much
harm by kicking or plunging, and the block being very light does not
teach him to jib.
[Sidenote: Steady horse alongside youngster.] The horse having been
taught to pull is now quite fit to be driven in a break or cart. If
possible, place him at first in a double break, with a steady old horse
alongside of him, which will do all the starting by steady pulling and
not by jumping into the collar. Many old break horses are quite up to
watching the young one, and start accordingly.
Never forget to have a bearing-rein on, also kneecaps and bandages.
[Sidenote: Accustom to both sides of pole.] Drive the youngster on both
sides of the pole for a time, when he should be quite fit to put into a
single-harness break or cart.
Always have a rope halter on a young horse under the bridle the first
few times that he is put to. If he is likely to be very violent, two
halters may be put on, and you can then have a man leading him on each
side.
[Sidenote: Take young horse among traffic.] It is far better to drive
him where there is some traffic than along a deserted country road, for
he will go much better if he sees other things moving about, as they
will distract his attention, and keep him from playing tricks on the
driver.
[Sidenote: Exercise before giving lesson.] It is advisable to have him
well exercised before attempting to give him any of the above lessons.
[Sidenote: Breaking in single cart.] Supposing that there is no double
break available, use a strong light cart with extra strong shafts
instead; but a heavy cart with no springs is bad, as it will make a
rattling noise and possibly frighten the novice, while its weight may
teach him to jib.
In this case put a good strong kicking-strap on, but be careful not to
buckle it down too tight, or it will catch his quarters if he should
canter, and perhaps induce him to kick.
The bearing-rein must be loose, but tight enough to prevent him from
getting his head close in to his chest. A loose martingale may also be
added if the horse has a tendency to put his head up; fasten this to the
nose-band.
[Sidenote: Two men to assist in putting to.] Have a couple of men to
hold him, and try and put him in without the shafts touching him
anywhere. Hold the shafts well up, and get the horse as nearly under
them as possible, and quite straight in front of the cart; then lower
them quietly and run the cart up, passing the points of the shafts
through the tugs.
[Sidenote: Hook traces before buckling kicking-strap.] Next hook the
traces and buckle the kicking-strap on as quickly as possible. One man
should be kept standing in front of the horse and holding his head the
whole time, and he should never move away until the driver is ready to
start. It is a good plan at this stage to lead the horse about by the
rope halter, with a man on each side ready to assist, while the driver
walks with the reins in his hand on the off side of the cart. He can
thus guide him without getting up, while the weight which the horse has
to pull to begin with is materially reduced.
[Sidenote: When quiet get up into cart.] If he goes along all right,
mount into the cart and drive him about, keeping a man running alongside
for a little, when, if he continues to go well, the man can jump up
behind. If he should be inclined to jib, have him led on at once, but do
not hit him. Never let the man lead him by the rein, but invariably by
the nose-band or halter. [Sidenote: Turning lesson.] When he has gone
well for some distance on the straight, teach him to turn. Begin by
turning him if possible on a very large circle. If this cannot be done,
have him led round very slowly, the man pushing the outer shaft at the
same time to assist him, as in turning the inner one is bound to catch
him on the shoulder, when he will most probably passage off sideways or
rein back and get frightened.
[Sidenote: How to start a jibber.] With a horse that continues to jib
from sheer cussedness, I have found that strapping up one leg, and
making him stand still until he is tired out, will often induce him to
start off perfectly quietly as soon as the leg has been released.
A rope crupper may also be tried with good effect. This is formed by
taking an inch rope about sixteen feet long and doubling it. The loop is
tied by a thumb-over-hand knot, forming a crupper about two feet long.
Pass the loop under the tail and bring the ends forward, one on each
side; then put a man to pull on each of these ends, and the horse will
most probably move forward at once.
This system is a very useful one for getting refractory horses into a
stable or loose box. In Ireland it is a common practice to rub some
gravel in a jibber’s mouth, and this appears to be effective at times.
When a horse is inclined to kick on first being put in harness, he can
often be prevented, if not cured, by holding, or even tying up a leg, as
in the case of a jibber.
[Sidenote: How to guard against pulling.] If the horse is likely to be a
hard puller, it is a good plan to have a Liverpool bit in his mouth,
with two pairs of reins, one buckled to the cheek and the other to the
bar, the latter only being used to check him if he is pulling too hard.
[Sidenote: Lessons must be continuous.] The lessons must be continued
without intermission daily for some considerable time, or else it will
be found that the pupil very soon forgets what he has been taught.
[Sidenote: How to fix up reins when taking out of cart.] At the
conclusion of the lesson, after getting out of the cart, place the reins
over the off terret to prevent them from falling on to the ground when
the horse is being led into the stable. Take care that the spare parts,
which hang down on each side of the terret, are well in front of the
stop on the shaft; otherwise, if the horse should by any chance jump to
the front while the cart is being run back, [Sidenote: Rein catching apt
to cause an accident.] the rein may get caught round the stop and give a
sharp jerk to the horse’s mouth, which will probably frighten him.
[Illustration: FIG. 40.—A BREAK BY HOLLAND AND HOLLAND.]
Horses that have once been frightened in this way seldom forget it, and
are apt to plunge forward directly they think they are clear of the
traces, which is a constant source of accidents, as the horse may only
get half out of the shafts, and then he will probably bolt. For this
reason the kicking-strap must always be unbuckled before the traces are
unhooked.
[Sidenote: How to prevent horse plunging forward out of shafts.] The
best way of breaking a horse of this very bad habit is to drive him
straight up to a wall, or into a corner where he cannot jump forward;
then unhook the traces and run the cart back.
[Sidenote: Accustom horse to bars in stable.] A horse that is to be
driven in the lead of a team can be to some degree accustomed to the
bars, by having one tied on so as to hang down and touch him just above
his hocks when standing in the stable.
In conclusion, I would remind the reader that “Prevention is better than
cure,” and in breaking a horse to harness every precaution should be
taken from the very beginning of his education, for when a young horse
has once been hurt or frightened, it is a very difficult thing to
persuade him that the same thing may not occur again, and many a
naturally quiet and generous horse is ruined for harness work, or
rendered nervous for life, simply owing to carelessness or to want of
ordinary precautions during his first two or three lessons.
The beginner who has mastered the foregoing pages will, I trust, find
that he is thoroughly grounded in the theory and principles of driving,
and his interest will, I hope, be roused to such an extent as to induce
him so to turn theory into practice, that with time and perseverance he
will develop into a neat and skilful whip.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: Logo]
CHISWICK PRESS:—CHARLES WHITTINGHAM AND CO.
TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HINTS ON DRIVING.
PRESS OPINIONS ON THE FIRST EDITION.
From _The Times_.
“Another book which will appeal to all who are interested in horses is
the capital little volume called ‘Hints on Driving,’ by Capt. Morley
Knight, R.A. Captain Knight has nothing to do with history or anecdote;
his work is entirely practical. Doubtless there are other books on the
subject, but none within our knowledge is more clear or complete in the
instructions given for driving in single or double harness, and, above
all, for the more difficult mysteries of four-in-hand or tandem driving.
The utility of the volume is much increased by the accurate vignette
illustrations of hands holding reins, etc., made by G. H. A. White,
Royal Artillery.”
“Captain Knight is the author of a thoroughly practical book entitled
‘Hints on Driving,’ which he dedicates to Major-General Albert
Williams.”—_Morning Post._
“There are perhaps few greater masters of the detail of the art than the
author.”—_The Sportsman._
“One conspicuous and excellent feature is that it takes nothing for
granted, etc. Altogether this little volume is a capital manual of its
kind.”—_Glasgow Herald._
“It is simple, practical, and instructive. So far as the delicate art of
handling the ribbons can be taught by a book, this book succeeds to the
best effect in teaching it.”—_Scotsman._
“Any who are deficient or novices in the art of driving—and it is an
art—will do well to inwardly digest the contents of a capital volume by
Captain Knight, R. A., whose practical advice, down to the veriest
minutiæ, will work wonders in a short space.”—_Sporting Life._
“Captain Knight has done as much as anyone could do to place before his
readers the more or less accepted canons of driving. The book costs but
little money, and anyone who wants to drive properly would do well to
invest his 3_s._ 6_d._, and commit to memory some of the principal
rules.”—_The Field._
“A very businesslike and pleasant little book it is. Captain M. Knight’s
little book will be found far more serviceable than the big work on
Driving in the ‘Badminton Library.’ The book is provided with copious
illustrations and diagrams.”—_National Observer._
“The advice and details afforded by Captain Knight are about as
succinct, clear, and reliable as those which any pupil can desire to
acquire.”—_The Road._
“We have come to the conclusion that the author has accomplished his
design with no little success, and that anyone who desires to drive
properly would be well advised to study Capt. Knight’s pages attentively
before spending much money in driving lessons.”—_Baily’s Magazine._
“Much which it is very necessary for the learner to know may be acquired
from a writer who is sufficient master of his pen and of his subject to
make his meaning clear. Such an one is Captain C. Morley Knight, R.A.,
whose ‘Hints on Driving,’ published by Bell and Sons, will supply a
long-felt want.”—_Referee._
“The neophyte in handling the ribbons has found an excellent friend in
Captain C. M. Knight, R.A., whose ‘Hints on Driving’ are exactly what
the beginner needs. Capt. Knight is a master in the art, and whatever he
says is the fruit of practical experience.”—_Army and Navy Gazette._
“Quite fulfils its author’s object,—namely, to explain to beginners the
rudimentary principles and niceties of driving.”—_United Service
Gazette._
“A most useful, practical, and handy little work on all that appertains
to driving in single and double harness—including four-in-hand and
tandem driving.”—_Broad Arrow._
“We have not for some time come across such a thoroughly practical and
sound handbook as this.”—_Admiralty and Horse Guards Gazette._
“This little octavo volume should have an immense sale in India, where
every household keeps its trap. Herein is given information and
instruction on every conceivable point connected with the mysterious
craft of Whip and Reins.”—_The Pioneer_ (Allahabad).
“It is pleasant to meet with a little volume like Captain Knight’s
‘Hints on Driving,’ so erudite and yet so simple.”—_Times of India._
LONDON: GEORGE BELL AND SONS.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
● Transcriber’s Notes:
○ Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected.
○ Unbalanced quotation marks were left as the author intended.
○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that was in italics is enclosed in underscores (_italics_).