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HINTS ON DRIVING.
[Illustration: CURRICLE.]
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HINTS ON
DRIVING
BY
CAPTAIN C. MORLEY KNIGHT, R.A.
ILLUSTRATED BY
G. H. A. WHITE, ROYAL ARTILLERY
[Illustration: Publisher’s Logo]
LONDON
GEORGE BELL & SONS, YORK ST., COVENT GARDEN
1902
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First Published, July, 1894.
Second Edition, revised, Dec., 1894.
Reprinted 1902.
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TO
MAJOR-GENERAL ALBERT WILLIAMS, R.A.
IN sincere admiration for his devotion to every kind of sport, and as a
mark of appreciation of his encouragement and kindly advice in all
sporting matters connected with the Royal Regiment of Artillery, this
little Handbook on Driving is respectfully dedicated by one who has had
the honour and privilege of serving under his command.
WOOLWICH,
1894.
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PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
THE favourable reception given by the press and the public to the first
edition of “Hints on Driving,” which has run out in a little over three
months, gives me hopes that a reprint of it will also be acceptable.
For this edition the sheets have been carefully revised throughout, and
some additions have been made, many of which have been suggested to me
during a short period of service in India. Several new illustrations
have also been added.
General Albert Williams, who has kindly interested himself in this work,
has given me permission to insert the following letter:
“MY DEAR MORLEY KNIGHT,
“I have heard with pleasure that a second edition of your book on
Driving is about to be published, and feel sure that it will be as
well appreciated as the first has been. The book is full of valuable
information most useful to beginners, and many professed coachmen
might read it with advantage. The latter, like doctors, differ on
many points, but I feel sure all good coachmen will be glad to know
that your endeavours to instruct in the art of Driving have been so
well received, and will welcome the new edition, the success of
which I shall look forward to with confidence.
“Yours very truly,
“ALBERT H. WILLIAMS.”
I have also to thank His Grace the Duke of Beaufort, K.G., for his
kindly advice, and the numerous hints and corrections which I have
endeavoured to incorporate in this volume.
C. M. K.
_Nov., 1894._
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CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTION 1
CHAP.
I. HARNESS 5
II. DRIVING—SINGLE HARNESS 23
III. DRIVING—DOUBLE HARNESS 45
IV. CURRICLE AND CAPE-CART 58
V. DRIVING FOUR HORSES—POSITION OF 75
COACHMAN
VI. FOUR HORSES—THE REINS 82
VII. FOUR-IN-HAND—THE WHIP 101
VIII. FOUR-IN-HAND. STARTING—PULLING 119
UP—TURNING
IX. FOUR-IN-HAND. VARIOUS USEFUL 131
HINTS—WHAT SPARE ARTICLES TO
CARRY, ETC.
X. TANDEM DRIVING 161
XI. TANDEM HARNESS 187
XII. BREAKING TO HARNESS 197
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FIG. PAGE
CURRICLE _Frontispiece_
1. SINGLE HARNESS ON HORSE 1
2. SINGLE HARNESS—POSITION OF THE 24
HANDS
3. SINGLE HARNESS—RIGHT HAND IN WRONG 27
POSITION
4. SHORTENING REINS 31
5. SHORTENING REINS BY SLIDING LEFT 33
HAND UP TO RIGHT
6. DOG-CART 38
7. DOUBLE HARNESS ON HORSE 44
8. COUPLING REINS PROPERLY 49
FITTED—HORSES’ HEADS STRAIGHT
9. COUPLING REINS OF EQUAL LENGTH 51
10. OFF-SIDE COUPLING REIN FITTED FOR 53
HORSE WHICH POKES HIS NOSE, NEAR
COUPLING REIN FITTED FOR HORSE
WHICH CARRIES HEAD IN CHEST
11. POLE FITTED WITH SPRING FOR 61
CURRICLE
12. CURRICLE BAR AND ROLLER BOLTS 63
13. CAPE-CART HARNESS 69
14. SPRINGING A HILL 74
15. PRACTISING DRIVING WITH THE WEIGHTS 77
16. FOUR WEIGHTS AND PULLEYS FOR 78
PRACTISING DRIVING
17. FOUR-IN-HAND—HOW TO HOLD REINS 83
18. STEADYING TEAM WITH RIGHT HAND 89
19. HOW LOOP SHOULD BE TAKEN UP 90
20. LOOPING NEAR-LEAD REIN UNDER THUMB 91
21. LOOPING OFF-LEAD REIN UNDER THUMB 92
22. LOOPING OFF-LEAD REIN UNDER FIRST 93
FINGER
23. RIGHT HAND ON OFF-SIDE REINS TO 95
PREVENT WHEELERS CUTTING CORNER
24. OPPOSITION POINT TO THE RIGHT 97
25. OPPOSITION POINT TO THE LEFT 99
26. RESULT OF HOLDING WHIP IN WRONG 103
POSITION
27. PREPARING TO CATCH THONG 105
28. THONG CAUGHT UP BEFORE LOOP HAS 107
BEEN TAKEN OFF
29. TAKING OFF LOOP 108
30. SECURING LASH BY TWISTING IT ROUND 110
HANDLE OF WHIP
31. BRINGING BACK THONG OF WHIP AFTER 115
HITTING A LEADER
32. TAKING LEADERS’ REINS OUT OF LEFT 137
HAND WITH RIGHT HAND
33. RIGHT HAND ASSISTING LEFT (ON THREE 151
REINS ONLY)
34. TANDEM WITHOUT BARS 160
35. TANDEM—POSITION OF RIGHT HAND ON 165
REINS
36. TANDEM—TURNING TO THE LEFT 169
37. TANDEM—TURNING TO THE RIGHT 171
38. TANDEM WITH BARS 186
39. LONGEING WITH LONG REINS 196
40. A BREAK BY HOLLAND AND HOLLAND 209
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[Illustration: FIG. 1.—SINGLE HARNESS ON HORSE.]
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HINTS ON DRIVING.
INTRODUCTION.
IN the following pages an attempt has been made to explain to beginners
the rudimentary principles and niceties of driving.
In most treatises on this subject the minute details have been entirely
omitted, the writer taking for granted that the reader has previously
acquired some practical knowledge of harnessing and driving.
It is of course impossible to describe in a short essay every method of
handling the ribbons, for well-known authorities even of the present day
differ on so many points, that to discuss all would take too long.
Nevertheless, as nothing has been considered too trifling to be
explained, it is hoped that these hints may be especially useful to
those who may not have been able to obtain any previous experience, and
have not a thoroughly competent tutor at hand to teach them.
The difficulties which have to be overcome are so numerous that they
cannot all be discussed in detail, for one of the greatest charms of
driving consists in the ever-varying and complicated problems which are
being constantly placed before the driver to solve—problems which must
be solved at once without hesitation—and in no sport or pastime does the
old saw, “He who hesitates is lost,” more frequently prove true than in
that of driving. Thus, though it happens that the same result may be
obtained in a variety of ways by the practised hand, these notes being
especially intended for the instruction of beginners, the author has
endeavoured to solve, in the most simple and lucid manner, those
problems only which are most likely to puzzle the novice.
After all, there is no way of learning to drive so instructive as
sitting on the box seat beside a first-class coachman, and carefully
watching the movements of his hands. The novice is always tempted to
confine his attention to the horses, and so omits to notice the
manipulation of the reins at the critical moment. This omission on his
part should be carefully avoided, as the crisis is over in so short a
space of time that it is most important to keep the attention fixed
almost entirely on the driver’s hands, and carefully to commit to memory
every detail of the handling of the ribbons. In this work no new
theories on the art of driving have been advanced, but many very old
ones have been specially emphasized by repetition—a course which has
been considered justifiable on account of their great importance.
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CHAPTER I
HARNESS.
IT is often said by those who have little or no experience, that four
horses steady themselves, and require therefore little skill in driving.
This is a very great error, and a man who is keen to learn should make
it his first aim to drive one horse well, and having thoroughly mastered
this accomplishment, he should then proceed to handle a pair. In driving
the great aim is to get the horses going well together, and all doing
their fair share of work without taking more out of the driver than is
absolutely necessary. In order to arrive at this it is essential to have
the horses properly bitted, rightly coupled, comfortably poled up, and
the harness fitted correctly.
To begin at the beginning, it is first of all [Sidenote: Fitting of
harness. The collar.] necessary to see that the harness fits the horse.
The collar is a very important point. This should lie flat on the
horse’s shoulders, so as to give sufficient room for the fingers to pass
between it and the horse’s neck at the sides, and the flat of the hand
should be able to pass freely between the lower part of the collar and
the horse’s neck. Before putting the collar on, it ought to be widened
by lateral pressure with the knee, so as not to hurt the horse’s eyes
while passing over his head. [Sidenote: Sore shoulders.] If the horse’s
shoulders should get rubbed, the best remedy is to apply plenty of sweet
oil. This prevents the skin getting hard and the hair coming off. Salt
water should never be used.
[Sidenote: Hames.] The hames should fit the groove in the collar, which
should be well recessed, correctly all round and be buckled up tightly,
otherwise in double harness they are very liable to be pulled out when
going down hill, or when pulling up suddenly. [Sidenote: Hames straps.]
To prevent this, a small strap may be buckled round the bottom of the
collar over the hame links.
With a pair, the hames straps should be buckled on so that the ends
point inwards.
The traces should be of such a length that [Sidenote: The traces.] the
backband will lie on about the middle of the pad when the horse is in
draught; the horse will then not be drawing the cart by the backband.
Care should be taken that the tugs are in front of the stops on the
shaft, or a bad accident may occur owing to the cart running on to the
horse’s quarters.
[Sidenote: The reins.]
The width of the reins may vary from seven-eighths of an inch to an inch
and a quarter, according to the length of the driver’s fingers, but
about one inch will be found the most suitable width for general
purposes. The reins should not be too thick, or they will always be hard
and stiff, while, on the other hand, if they are very thin, they will be
uncomfortably soft in wet weather.
[Sidenote: Backband.] In a two-wheeled cart the backband ought to be
long enough to allow the shafts to hang level. There ought always to be
a little weight on the shafts, as nothing looks so vulgar as shafts
pointing up to the skies, with all the weight on the belly-band.
[Sidenote: Shafts and balance of cart.] It must be borne in mind that by
letting down the shafts the balance of the cart can be very considerably
altered. This alteration is often useful when there are four people in
the cart, as few dog-carts balance well with this number, the weight
being nearly always on the belly-band. Few owners thoroughly appreciate
what misery their friends undergo when made to occupy a back seat under
these conditions, as they so rarely try it themselves.
The belly-band should not hang down [Sidenote: Belly-band.] quite loose,
but, while allowing a little play of the shafts, should be tight enough
to prevent them from tipping up to any extent.
[Sidenote: Girth of pad.] The pad as well as the crupper should be
buckled up pretty tight if there are any steep hills to go down, and a
breeching is not used; otherwise the pad will slip forward and gall the
horse’s withers. Sore withers give a great deal of trouble and are
difficult to cure. Another result of the pad slipping forward is chafing
of the horse’s elbows. On some horses the only way to prevent it is to
fasten the girth back to the shaft on each side by means of straps. This
plan is frequently used in hansoms in London. The pad itself should be
well stuffed off the back, particularly with high-withered horses.
[Sidenote: The blinkers.] The blinkers should be so fitted that the
horse’s eyes come almost in the middle of them, while the headstall
should be tight enough to prevent the blinkers from bulging out when
pressure is put on the bit, and thus enabling the horse to see behind
him; but they should be fitted so as not to turn inwards and almost
touch the eyes. [Sidenote: Horse’s comfort reflected in manner of
going.] This is a point which is very often little attended to, but one
which makes a considerable difference to the horse’s comfort, and is
naturally reflected in his manner of going.
The throat-lash should not be fastened too [Sidenote: Throat-lash.]
tight; if it is, it will half choke the horse. It should be loose enough
to allow three fingers to be passed between it and the horse’s throat.
The nose-band should admit of the breadth [Sidenote: Nose-band.] of two
fingers between it and the horse’s jaw.
[Sidenote: Bitting.] Bitting is all a matter of common sense and
practice. The reins must be altered up or down the bit until the
adjustment most comfortable for the horse has been discovered. But even
then a great deal will depend on [Sidenote: Hands.] what is generally
known as “Hands.” This really unknown quantity, consisting as it does of
complete sympathy between the horse and his driver, though born and not
made, can be improved to some extent by teaching and practice. This gift
has been defined as “not using more force on the reins than the
exigencies of the occasion render absolutely necessary.” As a general
rule the bit should lie flat in the horse’s mouth about one inch above
the tusks.
[Sidenote: Curb-chain.] The curb-chain must not be too tight, and there
ought to be room for at least two fingers to be placed between it and
the horse’s jaw. If a horse is at all inclined to be a puller, an
ignorant groom will very often fix it as tight as he can, with the
probable result that the horse will jib or pull all the harder. In the
latter case he will be likely to get a sore under the jaw. The best
remedy for this is to fix a piece of leather on the chain, so that the
latter does not rub on the sore place. If a horse bores to the near
side, putting the rein down lower on the off than on the near side will
very often make him go straight, and _vice versâ_. Some horses pull with
very sharp bits, and will not do so with a snaffle, while others do just
the contrary. A double-ring snaffle covered with leather or made of
indiarubber is useful for very light-mouthed horses.
[Sidenote: Use of a net.] A net usually stops horses pulling for a time,
but it is doubtful whether it has a permanent effect; so that it is
better to leave it off occasionally.
[Sidenote: Bearing-rein.] If a horse is inclined to put his head down,
and bore, a bearing-rein will prevent him from doing so; but it must not
be too tight. There are many horses that would be undrivable without
one, as it keeps their heads in the proper position, and thus takes the
weight off the driver’s hand. When driving a young horse or a bad kicker
it is always advisable to have a loose one on, as it will prevent him
from becoming unmanageable by putting his head between his legs. The
American pattern, which passes from the bearing-rein hook on the pad
over the top of the horse’s head, through a keeper on the headpiece
between his ears, down to the bridoon is very useful for a hard puller.
The correct adjustment of a bearing-rein requires a certain amount of
practice, as when the horse is standing still it always appears much
tighter than it really is.
[Sidenote: Bitting of a pulling horse.] Sometimes a very hard puller,
especially in a team, can be driven with a big Liverpool bit hanging
loose in his mouth and with the reins fixed to a bridoon; a bearing-rein
can also be fitted on this bridoon if required.
A martingale will prove effective in the case of horses who pull owing
to their habit of star-gazing.
Sometimes a horse pulls by getting hold of the cheek of the bit with his
lip. This can be met with the elbow-bit, which is an improvement on the
Liverpool bit, as, by having a bend in it, the cheek is so far back that
the horse cannot reach it with his lips or tongue. The reason that this
bit is not more generally used is that many people consider it
unsightly.
Indiarubber-covered bits, especially those with a double bar, also
answer very well with some pulling horses, the effect then being to make
the bit work on a different part of the mouth from that to which they
are accustomed.
A double bar can easily be improvised by sewing a piece of leather, like
a lip-strap, only larger, across the top of an ordinary bit, just below
the end of the headpiece.
An inveterate puller may in time get used to any bit, in which case
frequent change is the only remedy.
[Sidenote: Every horse’s mouth has a key.] In fact there is a key to
almost every horse’s mouth if it can only be found, and it is well worth
taking considerable trouble to find it; though frequently much patience
and many experiments will be required before a successful result is
obtained, and the man who has to drive many horses must have a large
assortment of bits.
[Sidenote: Martingale.] A martingale is excellent for a horse that
carries his head in the air, and also very effective for one that rears.
It should be so adjusted as to keep the nose about in line with the
withers, and is generally fixed to the nose-band, but may be attached to
the bit, and when so attached it is better to use a half-moon snaffle,
or one without a joint in it, as this greatly reduces the chances of the
corners of the horse’s mouth getting sore.
Circular pieces of leather, called cheek leathers, are also very useful
in this respect with ordinary bits, as they keep the corners [Sidenote:
Corners of mouth sore.] of the horse’s mouth from being pinched by the
cheeks, and also prevent to a certain extent his getting hold of them
with his lips.
For a horse that has only one side to [Sidenote: One-sided mouth.] his
mouth, it often answers to have a few tacks put on the inside of the
piece of leather, which effectually stops him from leaning his head out
to that side.
These pieces have a round hole in the middle, which fits the bar of the
bit, and a slit from this hole to the outside, so that they can be put
on and taken off quite easily.
[Sidenote: Kicking-strap.] Kicking-straps can be used either in single
or double harness. In the former the strap passes up from one of the
shafts through a loop in the crupper, and down to the other shaft. In
double harness two straps are required. These are fixed to the pad, from
which they run parallel to the crupper down to the splinter bar. They
are connected by a short strap across the loins. Kicking-straps should
be so adjusted that there should be plenty of room for the movement of
the horse’s quarters, as if he breaks into a canter they are liable to
catch his quarters and so make him kick. A good rule is to allow a
hand’s breadth between the horse’s back and this strap.
[Sidenote: Fitting of breeching.] A breeching is a necessity in a hilly
country, more especially with a two-wheeled cart, when a brake is of no
use. It should hang about a foot below the upper part of the dock, and
have about four to six inches’ play when the horse is in the collar.
[Sidenote: Three kinds of breeching.] There are three kinds of
breechings for a dog-cart.
The first starts from the tug on one end of the backband, and goes right
round the horse’s quarters to the tug on the other.
The second buckles to loops on each shaft, these loops being placed half
way between the stops and the front of the cart.
[Sidenote: Brown’s patent.] The third consists of a broad strap, which
is stretched fairly taut across the shafts about six or eight inches
from the front of the cart. This one is always ready and requires no
adjustment, looks neat, and answers admirably. It is known as Brown’s
patent.
The first method is better than the second, because it does not require
any extra loops on the shafts, which tend to weaken them considerably,
and also it does not take any of the paint off.
[Sidenote: Breeching rubbing the horse.] If a horse’s quarters should
get rubbed by the breeching, the best plan to prevent any further damage
is to have a large piece of sheepskin sewn round the strap, with the
hair next the horse.
[Sidenote: Crupper.] The crupper ought to be fitted so that there is
room for the breadth of the hand, or about four inches, between it and
the horse’s back, when the pad is in the right place. Great care should
be taken that all the hairs of the tail are passed through the crupper.
[Sidenote: Breast harness.] Breast harness can very often be substituted
for collars with great advantage, especially when the horses’ necks get
wrung by the latter.
This method of draught also obviates the necessity of keeping a large
number of collars to fit all sorts of horses, while another advantage
is, that you are able to use breechings to the best advantage in double
harness.
The breast strap should be made of a strong leather strap, about three
inches wide, and padded inside so that the hard edges do not touch the
skin.
For double harness a ring must be sewn into the middle for the purpose
of attaching the pole chains.
The breast strap is held up by a light strap passing over the horse’s
withers, and the breeching, by a similar strap, passing over the croup.
A crupper can be used, but is not necessary.
The breast straps should lie flat, and be kept well above the point of
the shoulders. They must be carefully adjusted, the usual fault being
that they are placed too low. Each end of the breast strap has a buckle,
into which both the trace and the end of the breeching are fastened. Of
course it is impossible to get as much work out of a horse with breast
harness as with collars.
[Sidenote: Whip.] The whip should be as light as possible, and well
balanced, the thong being about half the length of the stick. The points
should always be of leather, as these are much the best in wet weather.
[Sidenote: Always hang whip up.] A whip should never be allowed to stand
in a corner or up against a wall, as it will very quickly warp in that
position. It should always be kept hung up, either on a reel or by a
string to a nail in the wall.
Before leaving the subject of harness, a word on the general appearance
and neatness of turn-out will not be out of place. Straps ought to be
shortened to fit the horse, and be no longer than absolutely necessary.
To prevent any ends flapping about, keepers must be tight, and fitted so
as to be within an inch or two of the points of the straps. Nothing
catches the eye more quickly, or looks more slovenly, than the ends of
the traces sticking out a foot beyond the keepers, or a belly-band strap
dangling loose underneath the horse.
When buying harness go to a really good maker: cheap clumsy harness
never pays.
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