Taos represents the northernmost of the pueblos in New Mexico. It is
also one of the most scenic, lying at the foot of the Taos Mountains, a
spur of the mighty Sangre de Cristo range. It is a prosperous village of
about 900 persons. There is no finer example of pueblo apartment
architecture in New Mexico. The main pueblo building rises five stories
above the mesa. One must be careful not to confuse the Spanish town, don
Fernando de Taos, and the old Indian farming center, Ranchos de Taos,
with the pueblo, San Geronimo de Taos. It is the latter that is Indian
and is, therefore, by far the oldest of the three.
The ruins of the old San Geronimo mission at Taos represent one of the
most historic and fateful in all the Southwest. It was there that two
priests were murdered in 1680 during the first days of the Pueblo
Revolt. It was there that Po-pé sowed the first seeds of that rebellion.
Again in 1696, the Taos Indians sought to free themselves from Spanish
control by killing their priests and other Spaniards in the vicinity.
Again they were subdued. In 1847, when the Americans annexed New Mexico,
the Taos Indians tried once more to gain their independence. Inflamed by
Mexican citizens who refused to accept American authority, they attacked
the Americans at Fernando de Taos, killing nine of them. Governor
Charles Bent, builder of the famous Bent’s Fort on the Santa Fe Trail,
was among those killed. On February 3, 1847, the American army in New
Mexico laid siege to the village and the Indians fortified themselves in
the mission. It became the Alamo of the Taos people. American artillery
was brought to bear, and the walls of the ancient church were battered
down; the Indians fled, first to the village and then into the
mountains, leaving behind 150 dead and many wounded. They were finally
forced to surrender, and their leaders were hung. Those so hung remain
martyrs to this day. The ruins of the Taos mission, built three and a
quarter centuries ago, still can be seen. They are a stark landmark to
the stubborn independence of the people of Taos.
[Illustration: (_Forest Service, U.S.D.A._)
Souvenir of the American army’s work in 1847: Taos Pueblo mission]
The traditions and ceremonials of Taos are well preserved. Their arts
and crafts, however, have declined and are not of the high quality found
in some of the other pueblos. Their ceremonials are excellent and are
noted for their beauty and precision. The feast day of San Geronimo,
September 30, is the most important event of the year.