JOHNNY GET YOUR GUN! BEAR HUNT!

As bears are too numerous in the town of Peltyville Corners, Vt., the

hunters of the surrounding towns are invited to participate in a grand

hunt to be held on Blue Mountains in the town of Peltyville Corners,

Vt., Wednesday, Nov. 8th, if pleasant. If not, first fine day. Come one,

come all!

They went, but it was the bear that would not participate. The notice

was printed at somebody's Electric Print Establishment. Queer mixture,

isn't it?

The bear does not run large as a rule, but he has a weakness for swine

and calves which brings punishment. Twelve hours' rail and a little

marching take you up to the moose-country; and twenty-odd miles from

here as the crow flies you come to virgin timber, where trappers live,

and where there is a Lost Pond that many have found once but can never

find again.

Men, who are of one blood with sheep, have followed their friends and

the railway along the river valleys where the towns are. Across the

hills the inhabitants are few, and, outside their State, little known.

They withdraw from society in November if they live on the uplands,

coming down in May as the snow gives leave. Not much more than a

generation ago these farms made their own clothes, soap, and candles,

and killed their own meat thrice a year, beef, veal, and pig, and sat

still between-times. Now they buy shop-made clothes, patent soaps, and

kerosene; and it is among their tents that the huge red and gilt

Biographies of Presidents, and the twenty-pound family Bibles, with

illuminated marriage-registers, mourning-cards, baptismal certificates,

and hundreds of genuine steel-engravings, sell best. Here, too, off the

main-travelled roads, the wandering quack--Patent Electric Pills, nerve

cures, etc.--divides the field with the seed and fruit man and the

seller of cattle-boluses. They dose themselves a good deal, I fancy,

for it is a poor family that does not know all about nervous

prostration. So the quack drives a pair of horses and a gaily-painted

waggon with a hood, and sometimes takes his wife with him. Once only

have I met a pedlar afoot. He was an old man, shaken with palsy, and he

pushed a thing exactly like a pauper's burial-cart, selling pins, tape,

scents, and flavourings. You helped yourself, for his hands had no

direction, and he told a long tale in which the deeding away of a farm

to one of his family was mixed up with pride at the distances he still

could cover daily. As much as six miles sometimes. He was no Lear, as

the gift of the farm might suggest, but sealed of the tribe of the

Wandering Jew--a tremulous old giddy-gaddy. There are many such rovers,

gelders of colts and the like, who work a long beat, south to Virginia

almost, and north to the frontier, paying with talk and gossip for their

entertainment.

Yet tramps are few, and that is well, for the American article answers

almost exactly to the vagrant and criminal tribes of India, being a

predatory ruffian who knows too much to work. 'Bad place to beg in after

dark--on a farm--very--is Vermont. Gypsies pitch their camp by the river

in the spring, and cooper horses in the manner of their tribe. They have

the gypsy look and some of the old gypsy names, but say that they are

largely mixed with Gentile blood.

Winter has chased all these really interesting people south, and in a

few weeks, if we have anything of a snow, the back farms will be

unvisited save by the doctor's hooded sleigh. It is no child's play to

hold a practice here through the winter months, when the drifts are

really formed, and a pair can drop in up to their saddle-pads. Four

horses a day some of them use, and use up--for they are good men.

Now in the big silence of the snow is born, perhaps, not a little of

that New England conscience which her children write about. There is

much time to think, and thinking is a highly dangerous business.

Conscience, fear, undigested reading, and, it may be, not too well

cooked food, have full swing. A man, and more particularly a woman, can

easily hear strange voices--the Word of the Lord rolling between the

dead hills; may see visions and dream dreams; get revelations and an

outpouring of the spirit, and end (such things have been) lamentably

enough in those big houses by the Connecticut River which have been

tenderly christened The Retreat. Hate breeds as well as religion--the

deep, instriking hate between neighbours, that is born of a hundred

little things added up, brooded over, and hatched by the stove when two

or three talk together in the long evenings. It would be very

interesting to get the statistics of revivals and murders, and find how

many of them have been committed in the spring. But for undistracted

people winter is one long delight of the eye. In other lands one knows

the snow as a nuisance that comes and goes, and is sorely man-handled

and messed at the last. Here it lies longer on the ground than any

crop--from November to April sometimes--and for three months life goes

to the tune of sleigh-bells, which are not, as a Southern visitor once

hinted, ostentation, but safeguards. The man who drives without them is

not loved. The snow is a faithful barometer, foretelling good sleighing

or stark confinement to barracks. It is all the manure the stony

pastures receive; it cloaks the ground and prevents the frost bursting

pipes; it is the best--I had almost written the only--road-maker in the

States. On the other side it can rise up in the night and bid the people

sit still as the Egyptians. It can stop mails; wipe out all time-tables;

extinguish the lamps of twenty towns, and kill man within sight of his

own door-step or hearing of his cattle unfed. No one who has been

through even so modified a blizzard as New England can produce talks

lightly of the snow. Imagine eight-and-forty hours of roaring wind, the

thermometer well down towards zero, scooping and gouging across a

hundred miles of newly fallen snow. The air is full of stinging shot,

and at ten yards the trees are invisible. The foot slides on a reef,

polished and black as obsidian, where the wind has skinned an exposed

corner of road down to the dirt ice of early winter. The next step ends

hip-deep and over, for here an unseen wall is banking back the rush of

the singing drifts. A scarped slope rises sheer across the road. The

wind shifts a point or two, and all sinks down, like sand in the

hour-glass, leaving a pot-hole of whirling whiteness. There is a lull,

and you can see the surface of the fields settling furiously in one

direction--a tide that spurts from between the tree-boles. The hollows

of the pasture fill while you watch; empty, fill, and discharge anew.

The rock-ledges show the bare flank of a storm-chased liner for a

moment, and whitening, duck under. Irresponsible snow-devils dance by

the lee of a barn where three gusts meet, or stagger out into the open

till they are cut down by the main wind. At the worst of the storm there

is neither Heaven nor Earth, but only a swizzle into which a man may be

brewed. Distances grow to nightmare scale, and that which in the summer

was no more than a minute's bare-headed run, is half an hour's gasping

struggle, each foot won between the lulls. Then do the heavy-timbered

barns talk like ships in a cross-sea, beam working against beam. The

winter's hay is ribbed over with long lines of snow dust blown between

the boards, and far below in the byre the oxen clash their horns and

moan uneasily.

The next day is blue, breathless, and most utterly still. The farmers

shovel a way to their beasts, bind with chains their large ploughshares

to their heaviest wood-sled and take of oxen as many as Allah has given

them. These they drive, and the dragging share makes a furrow in which a

horse can walk, and the oxen, by force of repeatedly going in up to

their bellies, presently find foothold. The finished road is a deep

double gutter between three-foot walls of snow, where, by custom, the

heavier vehicle has the right of way. The lighter man when he turns out

must drop waist-deep and haul his unwilling beast into the drift,

leaving Providence to steady the sleigh.

In the towns, where they choke and sputter and gasp, the big snow turns

to horsepondine. With us it stays still: but wind, sun, and rain get to

work upon it, lest the texture and colour should not change daily. Rain

makes a granulated crust over all, in which white shagreen the trees are

faintly reflected. Heavy mists go up and down, and create a sort of

mirage, till they settle and pack round the iron-tipped hills, and then

you know how the moon must look to an inhabitant of it. At twilight,

again, the beaten-down ridges and laps and folds of the uplands take on

the likeness of wet sand--some huge and melancholy beach at the world's

end--and when day meets night it is all goblin country. To westward; the

last of the spent day--rust-red and pearl, illimitable levels of shore

waiting for the tide to turn again. To eastward, black night among the

valleys, and on the rounded hill slopes a hard glaze that is not so much

light as snail-slime from the moon. Once or twice perhaps in the winter

the Northern Lights come out between the moon and the sun, so that to

the two unearthly lights is added the leap and flare of the Aurora

Borealis.

In January or February come the great ice-storms, when every branch,

blade, and trunk is coated with frozen rain, so that you can touch

nothing truly. The spikes of the pines are sunk into pear-shaped

crystals, and each fence-post is miraculously hilted with diamonds. If

you bend a twig, the icing cracks like varnish, and a half-inch branch

snaps off at the lightest tap. If wind and sun open the day together,

the eye cannot look steadily at the splendour of this jewelry. The woods

are full of the clatter of arms; the ringing of bucks' horns in flight;

the stampede of mailed feet up and down the glades; and a great dust of

battle is puffed out into the open, till the last of the ice is beaten

away and the cleared branches take up their regular chant.

Again the mercury drops twenty and more below zero, and the very trees

swoon. The snow turns to French chalk, squeaking under the heel, and

their breath cloaks the oxen in rime. At night a tree's heart will break

in him with a groan. According to the books, the frost has split

something, but it is a fearful sound, this grunt as of a man stunned.

Winter that is winter in earnest does not allow cattle and horses to

play about the fields, so everything comes home; and since no share can

break ground to any profit for some five months, there would seem to be

very little to do. As a matter of fact, country interests at all seasons

are extensive and peculiar, and the day is not long enough for them when

you take out that time which a self-respecting man needs to turn himself

round in. Consider! The solid undisturbed hours stand about one like

ramparts. At a certain time the sun will rise. At another hour, equally

certain, he will set. This much we know. Why, in the name of Reason,

therefore, should we vex ourselves with vain exertions? An occasional

visitor from the Cities of the Plains comes up panting to do things. He

is set down to listen to the normal beat of his own heart--a sound that

very few men have heard. In a few days, when the lather of impatience

has dried off, he ceases to talk of 'getting there' or 'being left.' He

does not desire to accomplish matters 'right away,' nor does he look at

his watch from force of habit, but keeps it where it should be--in his

stomach. At the last he goes back to his beleaguered city, unwillingly,

partially civilised, soon to be resavaged by the clash of a thousand

wars whose echo does not reach here.

The air which kills germs dries out the very newspapers. They might be

of to-morrow or a hundred years ago. They have nothing to do with

to-day--the long, full, sunlit to-day. Our interests are not on the same

scale as theirs, perhaps, but much more complex. The movement of a

foreign power--an alien sleigh on this Pontic shore--must be explained

and accounted for, or this public's heart will burst with unsatisfied

curiosity. If it be Buck Davis, with the white mare that he traded his

colt for, and the practically new sleigh-robe that he bought at the

Sewell auction, _why_ does Buck Davis, who lives on the river flats,

cross our hills, unless Murder Hollow be blockaded with snow, or unless

he has turkeys for sale? _But_ Buck Davis with turkeys would surely

have stopped here, unless he were selling a large stock in town. A wail

from the sacking at the back of the sleigh tells the tale. It is a

winter calf, and Buck Davis is going to sell it for one dollar to the

Boston Market where it will be turned into potted chicken. This leaves

the mystery of his change of route unexplained. After two days' sitting

on tenter-hooks it is discovered, obliquely, that Buck went to pay a

door-yard call on Orson Butler, who lives on the saeter where the wind

and the bald granite scaurs fight it out together. Kirk Demming had

brought Orson news of a fox at the back of Black Mountain, and Orson's

eldest son, going to Murder Hollow with wood for the new barn floor that

the widow Amidon is laying down, told Buck that he might as well come

round to talk to his father about the pig. _But_ old man Butler meant

fox-hunting from the first, and what he wanted to do was to borrow

Buck's dog, who had been duly brought over with the calf, and left on

the mountain. No old man Butler did _not_ go hunting alone, but waited

till Buck came back from town. Buck sold the calf for a dollar and a

quarter and not for seventy-five cents as was falsely asserted by

interested parties. _Then_ the two went after the fox together. This

much learned, everybody breathes freely, if life has not been

complicated in the meantime by more strange counter-marchings.

Five or six sleighs a day we can understand, if we know why they are

abroad; but any metropolitan rush of traffic disturbs and excites.

Letters of Travel (1892-1913) · 第 19 / 47 题