Immense quantities of mushrooms are produced in Paris, as is well

known, in caves, and interesting accounts have been written of visits

to these subterranean mushroom-vaults of the gay city. In one of these

caves, at Montrouge, the proprietor gathers largely every day,

occasionally sending more than 400 pounds weight per day to market,

the average being about 300 pounds. There are six or seven miles' run

of mushroom-beds in this cave, and the owner is only one of a large

class who devote themselves to the culture of mushrooms. Large

quantities of preserved mushrooms are exported, one house sending to

England not less than 14,000 boxes in a year. Another cave near

Frépillon was in full force in 1867, sending as many as 3,000 pounds

of mushrooms to the Parisian markets daily. In 1867, M. Renaudot had

over twenty-one miles of mushroom-beds in one great cave at Méry, and

in 1869 there were sixteen miles of beds in a cave at Frépillon. The

temperature of these caves is so equal that the cultivation of the

mushroom is possible at all seasons of the year, but the best crops

are gathered in the winter.

Mr. Robinson gives an excellent account, not only of the subterranean,

but also of the open-air culture of mushrooms about Paris. The

open-air culture is never pursued in Paris during the summer, and

rarely so in this country.[D] What might be termed the domestic

cultivation of mushrooms is easy, that is, the growth by inexperienced

persons, for family consumption, of a bed of mushrooms in cellars,

wood-houses, old tubs, boxes, or other unconsidered places. Even in

towns and cities it is not impracticable, as horse-dung can always be

obtained from mews and stables. Certainly fungi are never so

harmless, or seldom so delicious, as when collected from the bed, and

cooked at once, before the slightest chemical change or deterioration

could possibly take place.

Mr. Cuthill's advice may be repeated here. He says:--"I must not

forget to remind the cottager that it would be a shilling or two a

week saved to him during the winter, if he had a good little bed of

mushrooms, even for his own family, to say nothing about a shilling or

two that he might gain by selling to his neighbours. I can assure him

mushrooms grow faster than pigs, and the mushrooms do not eat

anything; they only want a little attention. Addressing myself to the

working classes, I advise them, in the first place, to employ their

children or others collecting horse-droppings along the highway, and

if mixed with a little road-sand, so much the better. They must be

deposited in a heap during summer, and trodden firmly. They will heat

a little, but the harder they are pressed the less they will heat.

Over-heating must be guarded against; if the watch or trial stick

which is inserted into them gets too hot for the hand to bear, the

heat is too great, and will destroy the spawn. In that case artificial

spawn must be used when the bed is made up, but this expedient is to

be avoided on account of the expense. The easiest way for a cottager

to save his own spawn would be to do so when he destroys his old bed;

he will find all round the edges or driest parts of the dung one mass

of superior spawn; let him keep this carefully in a very dry place,

and when he makes up his next bed it can then be mixed with his summer

droppings, and will insure a continuance and excellent crop. These

little collections of horse-droppings and road-sand, if kept dry in

shed, hole, or corner, under cover, will in a short time generate

plenty of spawn, and will be ready to be spread on the surface of the

bed in early autumn, say by the middle of September or sooner. The

droppings during the winter must be put into a heap, and allowed to

heat gently, say up to eighty or ninety degrees; then they must be

turned over twice daily to let off the heat and steam; if this is

neglected the natural spawn of the droppings is destroyed. The

cottager should provide himself with a few barrowfuls of strawy dung

to form the foundation of his bed, so that the depth, when all is

finished, be not less than a foot. Let the temperature be up to milk

heat. He will then, when quite sure that the bed will not overheat,

put on his summer droppings. By this time these will be one mass of

natural spawn, having a grey mouldy and thready appearance, and a

smell like that of mushrooms. Let all be pressed very hard; then let

mould, unsifted, be put on, to the thickness of four inches, and

trodden down hard with the feet and watered all over; and the back of

a spade may now be used to make it still harder, as well as to plaster

the surface all over."[E] Mushrooms are cultivated very extensively by

Mr. Ingram, at Belvoir, without artificial spawn. There is a great

riding-house there, in which the litter is ground down by the horses'

feet into very small shreds. These are placed in a heap and turned

over once or twice during the season, when a large quantity of

excellent spawn is developed which, placed in asparagus beds or laid

under thin turf, produces admirable mushrooms, in the latter case as

clean as in our best pastures.[F]

Other species will sometimes be seen growing on mushroom-beds besides

the genuine mushroom, the spawn in such cases being probably

introduced with the materials employed. We have seen a pretty crisped

variety of _Agaricus dealbatus_ growing in profusion in such a place,

and devoured it accordingly. Sometimes the mushrooms will, when in an

unhealthy condition, be subject to the ravages of parasitic species of

mould, or perhaps of _Hypomyces_. _Xylaria vaporaria_ has, in more

than one instance, usurped the place of mushrooms. Mr. Berkeley has

received abundant specimens in the Sclerotioid state, which he

succeeded in developing in sand under a bell glass. Of course under

such conditions there is much loss. The little fairy-ring champignon

is an excellent and useful species, and it is a great pity that some

effort should not be made to procure it by cultivation. In Italy a

kind of _Polyporus_, unknown in this country, is obtained by watering

the _Pietra funghaia_, or fungus stone, a sort of tufa impregnated

with mycelium. The _Polypori_, it is said, take seven days to come to

perfection, and may be obtained from the foster mass, if properly

moistened, six times a year. There are specimens which were fully

developed in Mr. Lee's nursery at Kensington many years since. Another

fungus is obtained from the pollard head of the black poplar. Dr.

Badham says that it is usual to remove these heads at the latter end

of autumn, as soon as the vintage is over, and their marriage with the

vine is annulled; hundreds of such heads are then cut and transported

to different parts; they are abundantly watered during the first

month, and in a short time produce that truly delicious fungus

_Agaricus caudicinus_, which, during the autumn of the year, makes the

greatest show in the Italian market-places. These pollard blocks

continue to bear for from twelve to fourteen years.

Another fungus, which Dr. Badham himself reared (_Polyporus

avellanus_), is procured by singeing, over a handful of straw, a block

of the cob-nut tree, which is then watered and put by. In about a

month the fungi make their appearance, and are quite white, of from

two to three inches in diameter, and excellent to eat, while their

profusion is sometimes so great as entirely to hide the wood from

whence they spring.[G] It has been said that _Boletus edulis_ may be

propagated by watering the ground with a watery infusion of the

plants, but we have no knowledge of this method having been pursued

with success.

The culture of truffles has been partially attempted, on the principle

that, in some occult manner, certain trees produced truffles beneath

their shade. It is true that truffles are found under trees of special

kinds, for Mr. Broome remarks that some trees appear more favourable

to the production of truffles than others. Oak and hornbeam are

specially mentioned; but, besides these, chestnut, birch, box, and

hazel are alluded to. He generally found _Tuber oestivum_ under

beech-trees, but also under hazel, _Tuber macrosporum_ under oaks, and

_Tuber brumale_ under oaks and abele. The men who collect truffles

for Covent Garden Market obtain them chiefly under beech, and in mixed

plantations of fir and beech.[H]

Some notion may be obtained of the extent to which the trade of

truffles is carried in France, when we learn that in the market of Apt

alone about 3,500 pounds of truffles are exposed for sale every week

during the height of the season, and the quantity sold during the

winter reaches upwards of 60,000 pounds, whilst the Department of

Vaucluse yields annually upwards of 60,000 pounds. It may be

interesting here to state that the value of truffles is so great in

Italy that precautions are taken against truffle poachers, much in the

same way as against game poachers in England. They train their dogs so

skilfully that, while they stand on the outside of the truffle

grounds, the dogs go in and dig for the fungi. Though there are

multitudes of species, they bring out those only which are of market

value. Some dogs, however, are employed by botanists, which will hunt

for any especial species that may be shown to them. The great

difficulty is to prevent them devouring the truffles, of which they

are very fond. The best dogs, indeed, are true retrievers.

The Count de Borch and M. de Bornholz give the chief accounts of the

efforts that have been made towards the cultivation of these fungi.

They state that a compost is prepared of pure mould and vegetable soil

mixed with dry leaves and sawdust, in which, when properly moistened,

mature truffles are placed in winter, either whole or in fragments,

and that after the lapse of some time small truffles are found in the

compost.[I] The most successful plan consists in sowing acorns over a

considerable extent of land of a calcareous nature; and when the young

oaks have attained the age of ten or twelve years, truffles are found

in the intervals between the trees. This process was carried on in the

neighbourhood of Loudun, where truffle-beds had formerly existed, but

where they had long ceased to be productive--a fact indicating the

aptitude of the soil for the purpose. In this case no attempt was

made to produce truffles by placing ripe specimens in the earth, but

they sprang up themselves from spores probably contained in the soil.

The young trees were left rather wide apart, and were cut, for the

first time, about the twelfth year after sowing, and afterwards at

intervals of from seven to nine years. Truffles were thus obtained for

a period of from twenty-five to thirty years, after which the

plantations ceased to be productive, owing, it was said, to the ground

being too much shaded by the branches of the young trees. It is the

opinion of the Messrs. Tulasne that the regular cultivation of the

truffle in gardens can never be so successful as this so-called

indirect culture at Loudun, but they think that a satisfactory result

might be obtained in suitable soils by planting fragments of mature

truffles in wooded localities, taking care that the other conditions

of the spots selected should be analogous to those of the regular

truffle-grounds, and they recommend a judicious thinning of the trees

and clearing the surface from brushwood, etc., which prevents at once

the beneficial effects of rain and of the direct sun's rays. A truffle

collector stated to Mr. Broome that whenever a plantation of beech, or

beech and fir, is made on the chalk districts of Salisbury Plain,

after the lapse of a few years truffles are produced, and that these

plantations continue productive for a period of from ten to fifteen

years, after which they cease to be so.

M. Gasparin reported to the jurors of the Paris Exhibition of 1855,

concerning the operations of M. Rousseau, of Carpentras, on the

production of oak truffles in France. The acorns of evergreen and of

common oaks were sown about five yards apart. In the fourth year of

the plantation three truffles were found; at the date of the report

the trees were nine years old, and over a yard in height. Sows were

employed to search for the truffles. Although these plantations

consist both of the evergreen and common oak, truffles cannot be

gathered at the base of the latter species, it so happening that it

arrives later at a state of production. The common oak, however,

produces truffles like the evergreen oak, this report states, for a

great number of the natural truffle-grounds at Vaucluse are planted

with common oaks. It is remarked that the truffles produced from

these are larger but less regular than those of the evergreen oak,

which are smaller, but nearly always spherical. The truffles are

gathered at two periods of the year; in May only white truffles are to

be found, which never blacken and have no odour; they are dried and

sold for seasoning. The black truffles (_Tuber melanosporum_) commence

forming in June, enlarging towards the frosty season; then they become

hard, and acquire all their perfume. They are dug a month before and a

month after Christmas. It is also asserted that truffles are produced

about the vine, or at any rate that the association of the vine is

favourable to the production of truffles, because truffle-plots near

vines are very productive. The observation of this decided M. Rousseau

to plant a row of vines between the oaks. The result of this

experiment altogether does not appear to have been by any means

flattering, for at the end of eight years only little more than

fifteen pounds were obtained from a hectare of land, which, if valued

at 45 francs, would leave very little profit. M. Rousseau also called

attention to a meadow manured (_sic_) with parings of truffles, which

was said to have given prodigious results.

The cultivation of minute fungi for scientific purposes has been

incidentally alluded to and illustrated in foregoing chapters, and

consequently will not require such full and particular details

here. Somewhat intermediately, we might allude to the species of

_Sclerotium_, which are usually compact, externally blackish,

rounded or amorphous bodies, consisting of a cellular mass of the

nature of a concentrated mycelium. Placed in favourable conditions,

these forms of _Sclerotium_ will develop the peculiar species of

fungus belonging to them, but in certain cases the production is more

rapid and easy than in others. In this country, Mr. F. Currey has

been the most successful in the cultivation of _Sclerotia_. The

method adopted is to keep them in a moist, somewhat warm, but

equable atmosphere, and with patience await the results. The

well-known ergot of rye, wheat, and other grasses may be so

cultivated, and Mr. Currey has developed the ergot of the common

reed by keeping the stem immersed in water. The final conditions

are small clavate bodies of the order _Sphæriacei_, belonging to

the genus _Claviceps_. The _Sclerotium_ of the _Eleocharis_ has been

found in this country, but we are not aware that the _Claviceps_

developed from it has been met with or induced by cultivation. One

method recommended for this sort of experiment is to fill a

garden-pot half full of crocks, over which to place sphagnum broken

up until the pot is nearly full, on this to place the _Sclerotia_,

and cover with silver sand; if the pot is kept standing in a pan of

water in a warm room, it is stated that production will ensue.

Ergot of the grasses will not always develop under these conditions,

but perseverance may ultimately ensure success.

A species of _Sclerotium_ on the gills of dead Agarics originates

_Agaricus tuberosus_, another _Agaricus cirrhatus_,[J] but this should

be kept _in situ_ when cultivated artificially, and induced to develop

whilst still attached to the rotten Agarics. _Peziza tuberosa_, in

like manner, is developed from _Sclerotia_, usually found buried in

the ground in company with the roots of _Anemone nemorosa_. At one

time it was supposed that some relationship existed between the roots

of the anemone and the _Sclerotia_. From another _Sclerotium_, found

in the stems of bulrushes, Mr. Currey has developed a species of

_Peziza_, which has been named _P. Curreyana_.[K] This _Peziza_ has

been found growing naturally from the _Sclerotia_ imbedded in the

tissue of common rushes. De Bary has recorded the development of

_Peziza Fuckeliana_ from a _Sclerotium_ of which the conidia take the

form of a species of _Polyactis_. _Peziza ciborioides_ is developed

from a _Sclerotium_ found amongst dead leaves; and recently we have

received from the United States an allied _Peziza_ which originated

from the _Sclerotia_ found on the petals of _Magnolia_, and which has

been named _Peziza gracilipes_, Cooke, from its very slender,

thread-like stem. Other species of _Peziza_ are also known to be

developed from similar bases, and these Fuckel has associated

together under a proposed new genus with the name of _Sclerotinia_.

Two or three species of _Typhula_, in like manner, spring from forms

of _Sclerotium_, long known as _Sclerotium complanatum_ and

_Sclerotium scutellatum_. Other forms of _Sclerotium_ are known, from

one of which, found in a mushroom-bed, Mr. Currey developed _Xylaria

vaporaria_, B., by placing it on damp sand covered with a bell

glass.[L] Others, again, are only known in the sclerotioid state, such

as the _Sclerotium stipitatum_ found in the nests of white ants in

South India.[M] From what is already known, however, we feel justified

in the conclusion that the so-called species of _Sclerotium_ are a

sort of compact mycelium, from which, under favourable conditions,

perfect fungi may be developed. Mr. Berkeley succeeded in raising from

the minute _Sclerotium_ of onions, which looks like grains of coarse

gunpowder, a species of _Mucor_. This was accomplished by placing a

thin slice of the _Sclerotium_ in a drop of water under a glass slide,

surrounded by a pellicle of air, and luted to prevent evaporation and

external influences.[N]

As to the cultivation of moulds and _Mucors_, one great difficulty has

to be encountered in the presence or introduction of foreign spores to

the matrix employed for their development. Bearing this in mind,

extensive cultivations may be made, but the conditions must influence

the decision upon the results. Rice paste has been used with advantage

for sowing the spores of moulds, afterwards keeping them covered from

external influences. In cultivation on rice paste of rare species, the

experimenter is often perplexed by the more rapid growth of the common

species of _Mucor_ and _Penicillium_. Mr. Berkeley succeeded in

developing up to a certain point the fungus of the Madura Foot, but

though perfect sporangia were produced, the further development was

masked by the outgrowth of other species. In like manner, orange

juice, cut surfaces of fruits, slices of potato tubers, etc., have

been employed. Fresh, horse-dung, placed under a bell glass and kept

in a humid atmosphere, will soon be covered with _Mucor_, and in like

manner the growth of common moulds upon decayed fruit may be watched;

but this can hardly be termed cultivation unless the spores of some

individual species are sown. Different solutions have been proposed

for the growth of such conditions as the cells which induce

fermentation, to which yeast plants belong. A fly attacked by _Empusa

muscæ_, if immersed in water, will develop one of the _Saprolegniæ_.

The _Uredines_ and other epiphyllous _Coniomycetes_ will readily

germinate by placing the leaf which bears them on damp sand, or

keeping them in a humid atmosphere. Messrs. Tulasne and De Bary have,

in their numerous memoirs, detailed the methods adopted by them

for different species, both for germination of the pseudospores and

for impregnating healthy foster plants. The germination of the

pseudospores of the species of _Podisoma_ may easily be induced, and

secondary fruits obtained. The germination of the spores of _Tilletia_

is more difficult to accomplish, but this may be achieved. Mr.

Berkeley found no difficulty, and had the stem impregnated as well as

the germen. On the other hand, the pseudospores of _Cystopus_,

when sown in water on a slip of glass, will soon produce the

curious little zoospores in the manner already described.

The sporidia of the _Discomycetes_, and some of the _Sphæriacei_,

germinate readily in a drop of water on a slip of glass, although not

proceeding further than the protrusion of germ-tubes. A form of slide

has been devised for growing purposes, in which the large covering

glass is held in position, and one end of the slip being kept immersed

in a vessel of water, capillary attraction keeps up the supply for an

indefinite period, so that there is no fear of a check from the

evaporation of the fluid. Even when saccharine solutions are employed

this method may be adopted.

The special cultivation of the _Peronosporei_ occupied the attention

of Professor De Bary for a long time, and his experiences are

detailed in his memoir on that group,[O] but which are too long

for quotation here, except his observations on the development of the

threads of _Peronospora infestans_ on the cut surface of the tubers

of diseased potatoes. When a diseased potato is cut and sheltered from

dessication, the surface of the slice covers itself with the mycelium

and conidiiferous branches of _Peronospora_, and it can easily be

proved that these organs originate from the intercellulary tubes of

the brown tissue. The mycelium that is developed upon these slices

is ordinarily very vigorous; it often constitutes a cottony mass of a

thickness of many millimetres, and it gives out conidiiferous

branches, often partitioned, and larger and more branched than those

observed on the leaves. The appearance of these fertile branches

ordinarily takes place at the end of from twenty-four to forty-eight

hours; sometimes, nevertheless, one must wait for many days. These

phenomena are observed in all the diseased tubercles without

exception, so long as they have not succumbed to putrefaction,

which arrests the development of the parasite and kills it.

Young plants of the species liable to attack may be inoculated with

the conidia of the species of _Peronospora_ usually developed on that

particular host, in the same manner that young cruciferous plants,

watered with an infusion of the spores of _Cystopus candidus_, will

soon exhibit evidence of attack from the white rust.

It is to the cultivation and close investigation of the growth and

metamorphoses of the minute fungi that we must look for the most

important additions which have yet to be made to our knowledge of the

life-history of these most complex and interesting organisms.

[A] Experiments were made at Belvoir, by Mr. Ingram, in the

cultivation of several species of _Agaricini_, but without

success, and a similar fate attended some spawn of a very

superior kind from the Swan River, which was submitted to the

late Mr. J. Henderson. No result was obtained at Chiswick,

either from the cultivation of truffles or from the inoculation

of grass-plots with excellent spawn. Mr. Disney's experiments

at the Hyde, near Ingatestone, were made with dried truffles,

and were not likely to succeed. The Viscomte Nôe succeeded in

obtaining abundant truffles, in an enclosed portion of a wood

fenced from wild boars, by watering the ground with an infusion

of fresh specimens; but it is possible that as this took place

in a truffle country, there might have been a crop without any

manipulation. Similar trials, and it is said successfully, have

been made with _Boletus edulis_. Specimens of prepared

truffle-spawn were sent many years since to the "Gardener's

Chronicle," but they proved useless, if indeed they really

contained any reliable spawn.

[B] Robinson, "On Mushroom Culture," London, 1870. Cuthill, "On the

Cultivation of the Mushroom," 1861. Abercrombie, "The Garden

Mushroom; its Culture, &c." 1802.

[C] This has, however, not been confirmed, and is considered (how

justly we cannot say) a "canard."

[D] This method is pursued with great success by Mr. Ingram, at

Belvoir, and by Mr. Gilbert, at Burleigh.

[E] Cuthill, "Treatise on the Cultivation of the Mushroom," p. 9.

[F] Mr. Berkeley lately recommended, at one of the meetings of the

Horticultural Society at South Kensington, that the railway

arches should be utilized for the cultivation of mushrooms.

[G] Badham, "Esculent Funguses," 1st ed. p. 43.

[H] Broome, "On Truffle Culture," in "Journ. Hort. Soc." i. p. 15

(1866).

[I] No faith, however, is, in general, placed on these treatises, as

they were merely conjectural.

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