CASHMERE.
14th October. Sunday. I did not stir from the bivouac till the
afternoon, passing the day reading, in pleasant enjoyment of my
sylvan retreat. The coolies returned about 2 P.M., bringing some
apples, pears, and grapes--a welcome supply, but the grapes small and
flavourless. In the afternoon I rambled some distance downwards to a
seat commanding, at the same time, the magnificent prospect of the
valley spread out below, and some ravines and dells on either hand
likely to contain bara sing. Here I sat long meditating--thinking over
the incidents of my excursion, and casting reflections forward on my
future route, and arrival below. Nothing was seen or heard. Retracing
my steps, it occurred to me from examination of the range of hills
I was traversing, that I might hunt the ravine tried yesterday, and
descend from thence, while the coolies and traps took the ordinary and
easier route. On proposing this, it was cordially welcomed by the two
hunters. Buddoo and coolies would make straight for Shalimah Bagh to
which a canal ran from the Dal lake. There he was to engage boats, and
await our arrival.
15th October. We got away with earliest dawn--again heard the bara
sing--again were they seen, and a shot all but obtained as they crossed
the ridge as before. The guide was now sent down to drive the other
ravine, and we kept along the ridge, and stopped in ambush a long time
without seeing anything. Then, giving up, we resumed our downward
course, and I had stopped to don another pair of grass sandals, when
Mooktoo, looking down into the ravine, signalled game. On joining him,
we saw a fine stag standing gazing at the guide who on the same level
was trying to turn him up to us. But the provoking animal, as though
quite up to the dodge and danger, preferred facing the guide and the
stones he hurled to breasting the hill, and diving down took back up
the bed of the river. This was the last episode of the chase of the
bara sing.
A steep and slippery descent, not accomplished without some half-dozen
tumbles, landed us in the bed of a ravine which crossed that we had
been hunting at right-angles, and with its brawling torrent debouched
on the open cultivated undulations lying over the Dal lake. A path
leading through two villages, as usual shaded by fine chunars, brought
us to the Shalimah Bagh, a monument of former magnificence and luxury,
now neglected and desolate. Some patchwork repairs have been made this
year to its buildings by the Maharajah, only enough to check ruin and
decay here and there, to which everything here seems rapidly hastening.
Following the now empty aqueduct, we reached the canal, and found two
boats awaiting us, into one of which I stepped, and gladly extended
myself on the soft namba spread for me. The passage from the Shalimah
Bagh to my former bungalow occupied about an hour and three-quarters.
The Jhelum was now some six or seven feet lower than before, and the
stream proportionably moderate. I found all my baggage stowed in the
bungalow, and ordered it to be ready for a start on the seventeenth,
intending to get off myself, if possible, on the eighteenth.
16th October. After breakfast I took boat, and went first to a shawl
merchant's, Mirza Mahomed Shah, and purchased articles for presents to
dear ones at home; then to a papier-machè shop. Coming back, I found
a card from Captain Tulloh, 21st P.N.I. He left to-day, I understood.
But as I was sitting shut up for the night, and reading, I heard sounds
as of an arrival, and voices as of a saheb, and sure enough there was
Tulloh come to claim shelter, as his jan-pan broke down shortly after
starting. We sat long chatting over our mutual excursions.
17th October. Both of us astir early. A merchant employed by Tulloh
had brought his own horse to take him to Ramoo, and on my mentioning
a difficulty in procuring money, he readily engaged to supply.
Tulloh off, I had a talk with the merchant, Samhed Shah, a most
respectable-looking and pleasant-mannered man. I agreed to go to his
shop after breakfast, and was aggravated into buying a scarf, caps,
and black choga--the latter not yet ready. All my baggage left this
morning; Murad and party also. Abdoolah and Buddoo only remain with
me. Suleiman informed me that the Rajah of Kopalu was here, and had
received the Testaments. He would like to see me, but feared the
jealousy of the Maharajah.
On my arrival I had been visited by an Affghan to whom I had before
given ten rupees. He was, by his own report and that of many
testimonials apparently genuine, of great service to our sick and
wounded at the time of the Affghan disaster, for which humanity he
had to flee his country on the withdrawal of the British troops, and
(strange to say) has never been adequately rewarded by our Government,
though his case has been brought forward and published. I promised to
represent the matter to Sir R. Montgomery, in hopes of something being
yet done for his benefit.
18th October. Samhed Shah not appearing by ten o'clock, I took boat
and went down the river, and sent a man to his shop from which came a
brother or partner and told me that the black choga would not be ready
for three or four hours. On representing the delay and uncertainty to
Abdoolah, he recommended putting off the start till to-morrow, and
fetching Shupyim in one march. I now took leave of my three shikarries
who had remained in order to escort me some miles out, but this further
delay was too much for them, naturally enough as they had been more
than five months absent from their families. I also took leave of the
Baboo whose services have been invaluable. He refused any pecuniary
reward, and I had difficulty in getting him to name any present from
below that would be acceptable to him. After some time I suggested a
revolver. This seemed to please him, so having two with my baggage, I
engaged to send him one of them, and so we shook hands and parted. He
has got a nag for me to take me to Ramoo, from the Maharajah's stud, he
says. And now I have parted, I think, on the most friendly terms with
my Cashmere allies and retainers.
At length came the long expected choga, just from the dyer's and
still moist, so it had to be hung up. And now this busy day draws to
a close, and to-morrow I quit this lovely country, so full of natural
charms, but through bad government with its vast resources so little
developed. Would that it might fall into the hands of the British,
without either usurpation or fraud such as we have been in the habit in
India of pleasantly designating political necessity!
19th October. As I was still within the outskirts of Sirinuggur, a man
halloaed to me to loose my dogs, little Sara and Fan, as there was
shikar before me, and, looking up, there was a fine fox with a splendid
brush scudding over the maidan, a great cur far behind him. My two
little animals made a dash for him, but he just then crossed a bank;
and they came back. I suppose the animal had escaped from trap or cage.
I arrived at Ramoo heartily tired of the native saddle, and was glad
to mount my own Cabulli. My saddle was like an armchair after the
other, and though the mid-day sun was hot I jogged on contentedly to
Shupyim, where all my baggage still waited. It was now three o'clock,
and I immediately directed all to move to Heerpoor, in order to reach
Alliahabad to-morrow, where I shall join them. The old kotwal, a most
obliging old fellow, welcomed me warmly, mindful of former backsheesh.
Buddoo and baggage not arriving till nine, he sent me his charpoy
and bedding, and placed his choga from his own shoulders on to mine,
notwithstanding my protestations against his so denuding himself. He
insisted, having plenty more, he said, at home. Abdoolah cooked me some
chops, so altogether I fared admirably, and was just turning in, when
Buddoo arrived. He had been detained by the delay and difficulty in
obtaining a change of coolies at Serai.
20th October. Up ere dawn, and everything made ready for a start,
the kotwal very busy, lending a helping hand. I gave him a long
certificate, of which testimonials he has hundreds, and takes much
pleasure in exhibiting them to any saheb who may have sufficient
patience and good temper to humour him. With a friendly farewell I
set off on foot, and enjoyed a delightful march to Heerpoor, where
I mounted Yarkandi who was full of spirits, and when in such a mood
is very absurd with his clumsy frisking. The weather was lovely and
scenery beautiful, admiring which and often dismounting from the very
rocky and steep nature of the ground, I reached Alliahabad. My servants
and coolies had been there some time. I ordered out my tent, but had
better have put up in the old serai, for the wind outside was biting.
The season, though, is much less advanced than last year, when the
ground was covered with snow, and the undergrowth in the forests dead
and prostrate as in mid-winter. Now the vegetation is only beginning to
yield to the remorseless gripe of Jack Frost, enough still remaining to
shelter a bear; though I saw none of those animals now, whereas last
year I spied three on the bare ground.
The wind was wondrous shrewd, and put me in mind of Karakorum. I gave
orders to halt here to-morrow, Sunday.
21st October. A severe frost, and bitter cold wind. I kept my tent,
and breakfasted within. Finding I had no less than forty coolies--just
fifteen more than I required in coming up, with my full supply of
liquors, stores, lead, shot, and books, &c.--in spite of Abdoolah's
reluctance, I ordered all the baggage together, and examined the
contents of the kheltas, when I found that I could with ease reduce the
number of loads to thirty-five. Such a lot of rubbish of Abdoolah's
stowed away; some in every khelta, I think. Excepting the above slight
disturbance, I passed a pleasant, cheerful day.
22nd October. Much fuss and bawling at a very untimely hour, yet the
baggage not off as early as intended. The coolies took such a time
to fit their loads to their fancies that I passed them all within a
mile of camp, and trudged steadily on for the Pir--a heavy, steady
pull of three miles or so. Thence I enjoyed the superb view--the
whole valley, through which my homeward route lies, being unrolled
in all its windings before me. And beautiful it looked, now just
lit up by the risen sun. A few minutes to take an impression, and
down I sped, the path--bad enough in itself--made more difficult
than usual by the number of tattoos and bullocks which appear at
this season to throng the narrow paths. It took me about an hour to
reach the bottom. I was surprised to find the huge snowdrift, which
I thought to be inconsumable--some always remaining to be renewed
each winter--entirely dissolved; the mass of earth and stones it had
collected alone remaining to mark its position. I scrambled from the
bed of the torrent up that horrid bit of road immediately above it, and
there was completely checked by a continuous string of some two hundred
laden bullocks. As it was very possible to be sent rolling down the
precipitous bank by a rude shock from their hard mass of salt, I pulled
up for half an hour, and then on to Possianah, where I was welcomed
by the man and woman who attend to the wants of wayfarers. Though I
carried my usual hunter's breakfast, I gratified the old importunate
couple by directing some chupatties and eggs to be prepared, and did
not fail to do justice to them. I gave the old fellow a pukka rupee,
for which liberal donation the pair pretended to offer up prayers on
my behalf. Alas! the hypocrites! When Abdoolah arrived, they claimed
payment of him for my refreshment, assuring him that such was my
order. But Abdoolah knew my ways better, and was not deceived, though
the man followed him a long distance, urging his claim. I walked the
whole distance to Byramgullah, and enjoyed the exercise amid such
lovely scenery. On the arrival of Abdoolah, and learning from him the
attempted fraud of the Possianah 'traiteur,' I ordered the kotwal to be
informed of it, that he might be fined and checked in such malpractices.
23rd October. On setting off I was accosted by the old delinquent of
Possianah, who, it seems, had been immediately on my report brought
with his wife to answer the charge. They were astonished and terrified
at the position into which they had brought themselves, and were
profuse in all sorts of asseverations of innocent intention. They
stated that my servants had been supplied after me, and for this
they demanded remuneration, considering my rupee as my individual
backsheesh, as indeed it was. If this were true, they had right on
their side, and it is very probable that such were the facts. But it is
impossible to arrive at the truth in such a case, the Hindoo servants
being as great adepts at lying as these people, especially where their
interests are at stake. I could not even rely upon Abdoolah in such
a case. I desired the kotwal to pardon them; but they are sure to be
forced to give up the rupee.
This disposed of, I continued my progress, and was attended by a
well-looking black-and-tan dog of the Ladâk breed, whose evident
familiarity with Europeans made me think him a stray dog of the Survey
department. He left me at the foot of the Rattan Panjal; up which steep
mountain I ascended, and pausing to take a mental photograph of the
splendid view presented from the top again pushed on, enjoying the
beautiful scenery, varied at each turn of the winding path. I think
nothing in the whole journey surpasses this. The forms of the hills
are so fine and diversified, and the foliage so rich and abundant. I
stopped by a bright gurgling stream in an enchanting spot. Reposing on
a thick, soft turf, and canopied by sweet-smelling shrubs, I awaited
the arrival of breakfast. In this locality, and on to Thanna, still
bloom some deliciously-fragrant creepers, yielding a perfume like
woodbine. With this exception, one misses the abounding fragrance
enjoyed early in the year--one of the greatest charms of the journey to
my mind.
I finished the remaining mile or two riding. There was a very
perceptible change of temperature here, which induced me on arrival of
my traps to effect a thorough change of costume. I was well remembered
and pestered by beggars--one, a blind man, with a fearful goitre: one
sees but few so afflicted in these mountain regions. My servants, to my
surprise, brought with them the Ladâk dog. He had followed them, and
was so pleased with my notice that, feeling sure I was not committing a
theft, but only securing a truant or wanderer, I ordered him to be tied
up, and to be enrolled on our strength for rations. Poor Sara is so
dreadfully jealous that he has gone and secluded himself in the tent,
and actually shed tears in his distress: he refused his dinner also,
till I took it into the tent for him, and coaxed him to eat it.
A row just took place between the Maharajah's moonshi, or tax-gatherer,
and some of my followers. I heard angry voices for some time, Suleiman
appearing to be much aggrieved and loud in indignation. After
repeatedly intimating his intention of appealing to me, he came and
reported the said moonshi to be exceedingly intrusive and impertinent,
insisting upon an examination of his bundles, and persevering therein
in spite of his remonstrances and those of Abdoolah, as well as
threats of my vengeance. This representation Abdoolah confirmed, and
assured me that no obstacle had been placed in the way of the moonshi
inspecting the goods of the numerous hangers-on of my party. So I
sallied forth, and calling to the moonshi ordered him to approach, and
he hesitating to obey, I sent my sepoys to bring him to me. He then
advanced amid a general bully-ragging. Suleiman accused him of abusing
him. Believing there had been loss of temper on both sides, I asked the
moonshi if he had any complaint to make, or if any of the strangers,
who had attached themselves to my company, had attempted to evade his
scrutiny. He replied, 'No:' so I cautioned him to execute his duties in
a more becoming manner, and not to interfere where he had no authority.
And so amid general clamour the party dispersed, the moonshi strutting
off with his myrmidons, with an air of immense importance and offended
dignity. Suleiman did not meet with any of the enquiries met with
when coming up. He was told they had dispersed here and there, in one
employment or other. The Ladâk dog, dubbed 'Bhoota,' has taken to his
new quarters by my tent, and commenced his duties as watch-dog, barking
in a fine rich base voice. Sara still in the dumps.
24th October. A pleasant march to Rijaori. Excepting a few stony
places, this is a tolerable path, much the best of the whole route.
Once again I reclined under those fine chunars--the last I shall see,
as they are the first when coming. The young fishermen were soon in
attendance with bait, and gave me a full account of the great success
of Bucksby White saheb (24th) who stopped here eight days, and caught
many fish, some very large, but nothing like mine. They dwelt forcibly
on his giving them five rupees, backsheesh--pukka rupees, too. I got
my tackle in order, but from the report of the low state of the river
and clearness of the water did not anticipate sport; still thought I
ought to try, so started off at four, and tried two favourite pools
which were so still and clear that I remained but a short time, judging
that all attempts would be vain to catch a big one, and I cared not for
a small one. So I wound up and returned, no ways disappointed, the sun
now setting and the effects charming.
I read to-day in a back number of the _Lahore Chronicle_ a letter
signed 'Traveller,' purporting to be a just representation of the
condition of the Cashmiries under the Maharajah's rule, which he
describes to be most satisfactory--the whole country highly cultivated,
inhabitants well off and contented, and signs of good government and
prosperity everywhere. A man of small powers of observation might
possibly be deceived to such an extent, however difficult, but when
this scribbler comes to draw comparisons between the Maharajah's and
the British government favourable to the former, especially in the
matter of the repair of roads--a process altogether unknown in the
Maharajah's dominions--one cannot help suspecting the writer to have
been tempted by a douceur; to have been engaged by the Maharajah
specially thus to misrepresent facts, and give a false colour to
realities in Cashmere, in order to mislead the public, and blind
distant enquirers as to the nature of the Maharajah's rule and the
condition of his people. I can imagine no other reason for such a
palpable perversion of truth than seeing objects through the golden
hues of the Maharajah's spectacles.
25th October. I got a considerable wetting crossing the river which
though now so low is full of irregularities, deep holes, and terrible
smooth round stones. It is certainly a very awkward ford at the best
of times. I discovered some duck in a deep pool, and dropped one
wounded. The two little dogs gave chase, little Fan first plunging
into the deep water at which the usually forward Sara hesitated. Away
they went, and there was a grand duck hunt. The bird, as the dogs
neared it, dived, and so crossed the width of the pool to my side, its
course discovered by the tell-tale bubbles, and there it took refuge
under the thick bushes fringing the bank. Now in plunged the sporting
syce, Ruttoo, and was immediately up to his neck. He peered under the
bushes as I made my way above, and we had gone their length without
retrieving the bird, when a violent hurry-scurry took place forward,
and the little dogs were full cry after their poor, quacking, hobbling
victim which was secured just as it regained the brink of the water.
There were a good many black partridges about here, and many fine
fish seen basking. The Yarkandi lost a shoe, and believing him to be
lame I dismounted, but think the cunning old fellow did it on purpose
to humbug me as I noticed that he went all right when I was off him.
Reaching the old Serai, I found a new baraduri erected on a fine
airy prominence over the river, a great convenience to travellers. A
havildar and six sepoys turned out in full fig to salute me, looking
very clean and smart. I had a long chat with the havildar, a very civil
fellow: he begged some powder as he is fond of shikar, and there are
pea-fowl, wild-duck, jungle-fowl, and partridge in the neighbouring
jungle.
26th October. The havildar provided me with a chuprassee who was to
shew me a different and better road than that I had come by. But,
excepting about a mile immediately on quitting the baraduri which lay
by the river-side, he took me by the old stony route, there being
no better, I presume. The skeleton of the murderer appeared to have
fallen from the ropes which had suspended it, relieving the public of
a most repulsive spectacle. I took up my old camp ground in preference
to going on to the baraduri, at which, however, I understand all
travellers stop and are satisfied.
27th October. In consequence of the increasing heat of the sun as we
neared the plains, I made an earlier start than usual. It was still
far from light as I crossed the river which, to my surprise, I was
able to do on stepping stones, so low is it from the absence of rain,
I suppose. As I was crossing, two duck flew by within easy shot, and
as they returned I got my gun ready, and dropped one which fell some
way off up stream. Reloading I went after it, and had almost given it
up, when Sara tracked it up, and a hunt took place in the water, the
two little dogs working well and securing the game. Mounting the hill I
hailed the old couple at top, and ordered some milk: the old woman came
forth with it, and we had a chat. These poor people were robbed of all
their little wealth not long before I came this way, and have recovered
nothing. The thief was one upon whom they had bestowed hospitality, a
sort of faquir who are one and all impostors, if not rogues. The old
lady, as though pleased with our colloquy, brought some ripe plantains,
evidently rarities in these regions.
Crossing another stream, a small flock of wild fowl flew over. I
dismounted, and got my gun, and as good luck would have it they came
back overhead, and firing both barrels one bird fell dead, a fine
grey widgeon. Then I jogged on to Saidabad. It is now very hot in the
middle of the day, so I put up in the baraduri, though there are many
objections--a number of hornets in the roof, and a noisy party of
natives in an adjoining part.
Halting here the next day (Sunday), I was off on Monday morning ere the
stars had disappeared, and surmounted the long and rugged ascent. The
descent was tiresome--long, stony, and steep--but I hastened on without
a pause till I emerged from the narrow ravine opening on to the level
cultivated lands, the commencement of the interminable plains of the
Punjab. I arrived in good time at Bhimber, and found to my satisfaction
a chowdree from Lahore stationed here to arrange dâks for officers
coming from Cashmere--a capital and considerate plan. My servants and
baggage arriving, I arranged things for the journey, keeping the head
with me; settled with servants and coolies, tipped sepoys, packed up
the revolver with a letter for the Baboo, and having dined on wild
duck, and taking an ample supply of 'vivers' for the road, entered my
dooly, and was borne off with the uncomfortable prospect of a tedious
and dusty two days' journey to Amritsir. And here I conclude my diary,
having succeeded far beyond my expectations in maintaining it in some
order and method.
* * * * *
NOTE.--The skull, on being examined by medical men, was pronounced to be
that of an Asiatic.
END OF DIARY.
The sad task now remains of recording the death of the writer, which
took place at Meean Meer on the 23rd of August, 1861, under the
circumstances mentioned in the following extract from the _Lahore
Chronicle_:--
"It is with deep grief that we announce the death last night
from cholera of that admirable officer and most excellent man,
AUGUSTUS HENRY IRBY, Lieutenant-Colonel Commanding
the 51st King's Own Light Infantry. In him the public service
and society have lost one of its most honourable members, and
the officers and men whom he commanded one they esteemed as a
warm-hearted comrade and true friend. In all relations of life,
Colonel IRBY had won the esteem of those with whom he
had connection. He knew his duty thoroughly and did it; when his
regiment moved out of the cantonments to escape, if possible, from
the pestilence which has struck down more than one hundred and
twenty of them, he remained with the sick, caught the contagion,
and died at his post."
HENRY W. STACY, PRINTER, HAYMARKET, NORWICH.
Transcriber's notes:
The following is a list of changes made to the original.
The first line is the original line, the second the corrected one.
suggestion; so, leaving a man to help then on, I continued
suggestion; so, leaving a man to help them on, I continued
descended to the bed of the ravine, The Bruin family,
descended to the bed of the ravine. The Bruin family,
established, "nous avons changè toute cela." It is not
established, "nous avons changé toute cela." It is not
8th June. An early start, and a stiff job climbing the the mountain,
8th June. An early start, and a stiff job climbing the mountain,
and, Subhan having by my order cut the animals throat
and, Subhan having by my order cut the animal's throat
such a growl as sent his tormenters flying in all directions
such a growl as sent his tormenters flying in all directions.
a total failure, tattoos being in all directions,
a total failure, tattoos being in all directions.
ice in the morning, I was only informed, when starting,
ice in the morning. I was only informed, when starting,
loudy for Buddoo: they were all fast asleep, and, after
loudly for Buddoo: they were all fast asleep, and, after
the aid of their beleagured countrymen, Walli Khan's
the aid of their beleaguered countrymen, Walli Khan's
largely in all produce, and exercising a monoply of tea
largely in all produce, and exercising a monopoly of tea