LEH AND LADÂK.
17th September. Everybody astir early. Even the coolies were anxious
for a start. Not their wont by any means: it has always been a hard
matter to rouse them up. But they, poor mortals! have their affections,
and are now looking forward to return to their homes and families.
Having seen many hares and partridges when coming this stage, I had
my gun and shot ready, wishing to give little Sara some diversion.
Arriving at fields and cultivation after six or seven miles of horrid
barren country, I dismounted, and flushed a snipe in some swampy
ground, whilst a hare was visible running off in the distance. I
thought Master Snipey a certain bag after the hare, so did not fire at
him, though an easy shot. The hare made off through a fence, and a teal
rising I knocked it over. Now I tried for the 'long-bill.' But whether
the report of the gun had awakened dormant hereditary suspicions--for
he could never have been shot at--I know not; but he proved himself
the most 'cute and wide-awake creature imaginable, and, after many
dodges, finally took flight. So I tried after the hare. No find. Then
I took down a stream, and shot a long-billed bird which, when sitting,
I thought must be a woodcock: but it was only some kind of plover, the
head and bill exactly like the woodcock's. I saw the 'long-bill.' There
was but this one, and again I sought his life. In vain: he was off long
ere I got near him. Then I tried a swamp; found nothing, and stopped to
breakfast. All the people and traps came up and passed. I felt resolved
to have that snipe. And, as he had gone off in the direction of the
spot first found in, I had no doubt of seeing him there, so went back.
There he was, quite conspicuous, feeding about, but still wide-awake,
and ever fluttering on out of shot; and at last, when my attentions
became too pressing, he took a long flight, but came back a long round,
and settled in some sedges. I was relentless, and resolved to compass
his death by treachery; so, taking advantage of a fence covering
my approach, I stole upon him. Reconnoitring carefully, I saw him
evidently on the 'qui vive,' and had to advance still some way to make
sure. I peeped again: he was not visible. Suspecting a 'ruse,' I went
on a little further, and looking over the hedge saw my fine fellow, his
head on one side, evidently listening. Without any compunction, I blew
out his brains then and there. Soon after, I shot a hare, and then,
turning towards the horses, a good long beat lying between, I fired at
four others ineffectually; a just punishment for the persecution and
murder of the solitary snipe.
I found my tent pitched at Panamik in the old spot; and in the
afternoon transacted a deal of business. The moonshi, Ahmet Shah's
relative, met me on the road. He and Abdoolah had come to some
understanding on prices and charges, and we got on very well. The
horse left on the hill died yesterday, making five in all out of the
seventeen taken from Panamik, which gives a fair idea of the nature
of the journey. The hire of each horse for the forty days, after due
deductions, is eight rupees, one anna. I was very glad to have the
matter settled, and attacked my stew with additional zest. Some turnips
and pumpkins obtained yesterday were a great treat after a month's
forced abstinence from all vegetables. No fruit to be got here. I push
on to-morrow beyond the corresponding stage when coming, and, as the
river is now low, shall probably avoid Diskit altogether.
18th September. A more than usually tiresome march, the glare from
the surrounding bare sandy ground excessively trying to the eyes.
The moonshi overtook and accompanied me, and on arrival at Lanjoong
procured me some melons and apples which, though indifferent of their
kind, were most acceptable. Here I discharged Tar-gness who appeared
delighted with his rate of wages, doing obeisance in a most servile
manner. The kardar arrived from Diskit, and I tipped him five rupees,
much to his satisfaction.
19th September. A long and most wearisome march, repeating all the
disagreeables of yesterday in a magnified degree, the road lying
through an interminable tract of shingle and deep sand by the river
side. I shot a hare at the village where we stopped to breakfast, and
disturbed a young brood of chakore there. The hen bird exposing herself
to certain destruction to draw off attention from her nestlings,
I forbore to injure her, respecting her maternal solicitude and
magnanimous self-devotion. We finally brought up at a small village on
the right bank, having passed by Diskit and Kalsar, and thus gaining
a position almost opposite the ravine leading down from Karbong. The
sheep arrived from Diskit looking well, all but the solitary survivor
of the Wurdwan lot which, whether from pining in strange company in an
uncongenial climate, or other cause unknown, is in very poor case.
20th September. After two or three miles of very deep sand, we
crossed the river where divided into several channels. Its waters
are diminished in depth and force, otherwise it is not fordable when
comprised in its main channel. We had now a rough path up a rugged
ravine, with some very steep pitches to ascend, and did not reach
Karbong until eleven, and had to wait for breakfast till twelve. The
owner of the horses of my expedition, who is accompanying me to Leh,
there to receive his money, came up and reported that five of the
coolies had bolted at our camp, and every male had disappeared from the
village, so that Abdoolah had adopted the only course left, and gone
back to another village with the sepoy to impress other coolies. This
mishap compelled me to give up all thoughts of going further to-day,
which will necessitate a double march to-morrow, including that horrid
mountain.
21st September. A very severe frost, and the cold intense on this
elevated plateau, surrounded by snow-covered mountains. I rose at the
first glimpse of dawn, and tramped fast and long before acquiring any
glow. After a heavy drag up hill for four hours I halted to breakfast
about a mile and a half from the foot of the ascent; which I then
accomplished, not without sundry slips and tumbles, the ice beneath the
snow being hard and slippery. The descent was steep and rugged, down a
horrid stony path running through corn fields now under the reapers'
hands, to the immediate precincts of Leh, passing under the rock and
its crowning palace; and thence turning across the fields we entered
the enclosure where was our camp, and were warmly welcomed by Suleiman
and domestics. The former was much relieved at our appearance, having
suffered, he said, much suspense from want of authentic information
regarding us, and flying rumours of misfortune.
Major Tryon had taken his unfortunate servant with him in a doolie. He
had lost some of his fingers which had dropped off, but was thought to
be getting better.
No letters or papers for me, nor any news of those transmitted hence
having reached the Baboo. I am thus in a fix, not knowing whether
I have leave or no, nor even if my application for leave was ever
received. I must hasten on to Cashmere, expecting to meet the Baboo's
explanations 'en route.'
The thanadar was very civil in messages, sending apples and a sheep,
bed and bedding too. Abdoolah arrived and reported things on the
way, yet far behind. Buddoo and bedding arrived, so I was well
provided for. I sat chatting by the fire some time, and then turned
into my large tent, quite a mansion, and read for an hour or so. One
small snooze--and then I was roused and kept awake for hours by an
inharmonious combination of sounds--people wandering about, coolies
arriving holloaing at each other, servants and followers all jabbering
away together, horses neighing, a jackass braying, yâks grunting, and
Sara and Fan rushing out of the tent and adding their shrill yelps to
the general outcry. I summoned patience, and dwelling on my safety and
comfort forbore to interrupt my retainers in the outpouring of their
mutual gossip on reunion; but lay and endured it all, hoping for a lull
in the storm, which at length arriving, I submitted joyfully to the
sweet bonds of sleep.
22nd September. A delightful fresh morning. I just sauntered about
around my tent, and ordered two sheep, rice, flour, and tea for the
entertainment of my establishment, to commemorate the safe return
of the expedition. Suleiman reports that he had distributed all the
Scriptures and tracts, but a few which he had kept in reserve in case
we should visit Kopalu. He had met with some attentive listeners, one
a Sikh from Lucknow, now resident in this country, who said his mind
was full and troubled after reading the Gospel, and wished he could
consult with a 'padre.' He is going to Kopalu, and Suleiman was going
to entrust him with some books for the Rajah of that place, a very
intelligent man, and one with whom Suleiman, in his former travels in
this country with Colonel Martin, had held communication and discourse,
of whom too he was hopeful. But we learn that the Rajah is now in
Sirinuggur attending the durbar, so we hope to meet him in person.
There is also an old man, a bunga, native of Feruckabad, who has
been here some years, and has married a native woman, by whom he has
three young children: he is earnest in his enquiries, and professes a
conviction of the truth of Christianity. He proposes to go under my
escort to the mission at Amritsir. But to remove and deport a family
of the Maharajah's subjects without full sanction would be going much
too far. And, then, how would my friends, the missionaries, approve
of my burdening them so heavily? After pondering over the subject,
I resolved, if the customs and laws of the land permitted, to run
all risks and encounter the trouble and expense, for the sake of the
children--nice, lively, dirty, naked, little wretches, always merry
and chattering. So I sent Abdoolah and the moonshi to enquire of the
thanadar about the matter, who replies that, when a foreigner marries
a native of the country, he ought not to quit without due authority
from the Maharajah. So I thought the utmost prudence necessary in such
a case. I was sorry to reject the poor man's petition, and, pitying
his disappointment, said I would endeavour to get a purwanah from the
Maharajah for his exit, should I have an interview with his highness.
Poor old Basti Ram is ailing, and obliged to be bled, so I have
announced my intention to pay him a visit.
23rd September. Sunday. A quiet morning. About breakfast time Bella
Shah, the moonshi, Murad, and other folk and attendants came to see me.
Murad, who looked remarkably down and conscious, excused himself from
going on with me, stating that his horses were lame, and, when this was
contradicted, he then declared that he owed Bella Shah money, which if
I paid he would go. Bella Shah had then taken leave. I declined it, and
told him he was at liberty to choose his own route, time, &c., and so
dismissed him.
24th September. I paid all wages and claims before breakfast, and
afterwards off to the town to Bella Shah's, and inspected some rugs,
and damask silks, and other goods. The silks were described as from
Russia, but had a stamp with the arms of England, lion and unicorn, on
them. If they are from England, a far less circuitous route might be
found for such merchandise. Questioning Bella Shah as to Murad's being
indebted to him, he said it was true; he had borrowed money at Yarkand
from his nephew to be repaid here, but that this should be no obstacle
to his accompanying me. I had thought much last night over Murad's
conduct, and the best course to take in regard to it, and had come to
the conclusion that it was my duty to take possession of the head of
the deceased gentleman, leaving the other things with Murad.
I now went to Basti Ram's, and was ushered into the old gentleman's
presence with due ceremony. He is feeble, but his eye is bright
and his voice strong. A large group of slovenly attendants and my
own suite were admitted to the presence. We had much chat about my
journey, and then brought Murad upon the 'tapis.' Basti Ram became
excited and energetic, declaring that he would force him along with me,
and send an escort with him: had he not come under my protection, he
would have been imprisoned immediately on his arrival, so strong were
the suspicions entertained against him: there were merchants of the
first respectability now in Leh aware of all the circumstances of M.
Schlagentweit's murder, who distinctly taxed Murad with connivance and
complicity in the treachery that betrayed him to Walli Khan. The old
man was quite roused as he dwelt on this topic. I now made up my mind,
and explained my wishes to Basti Ram that he should summons all the
credible persons from Yarkand, who were cognisant of any of the facts
of this wicked business, examine them, and duly and officially record
their depositions in Persian, attaching his sign manual thereto; and
that the same parties should also give evidence before me. To this he
readily assented, issuing the necessary orders on the spot. He told me
that there was a merchant, a man of importance, in the town, who was
actually present when M. Schlagentweit was killed. This arranged, I
took leave.
There was food for reflection in the information just received, and my
resolve thereupon at once taken I sent the jemadar, who followed me
from Basti Ram, to bring me the head from Murad, and then returned to
camp. After a while the jemadar arrived with Murad, the head, book, and
instrument. The head, taken from the box and unwrapped, exhibited a
skull complete with facial bones. Earth and dust adhered to it as when
it was exhumed. The upper front teeth were remarkably prominent, the
two centre ones large. The jemadar, who had been well acquainted with
the deceased, had no doubt of the identity. There was a deep cut in
the bone just above the nape of the neck. The few roots of hair on the
skull were black. I ordered these relics to be placed in my tent, and
Murad was made aware that he must accompany me. He only demurred at the
difficulties of feeding himself and horses on the road. But this was at
once overruled, as Basti Ram had engaged to settle all such matters,
or I would have done so. The witnesses are to be paraded before me
this evening, when something definite, one way or the other, may be
elicited. I have taken measures to have them interrogated separately,
and much ado I had to get this understood. Natives will follow their
own train of ideas, and pervert one's words in conformity thereto.
Murad and the witnesses having come, after fruitless efforts to conduct
an examination in any useful form--it being impossible to obtain
definite answers, and equally out of the question keeping a witness to
the point, and preventing interruptions from my attendants, all wanting
to have a say--I gave up the attempt in despair, and sent the whole
party off to the thanadar to be examined on their oaths.
Abdoolah returned from the inquisition with Murad and a paper
containing the summary of evidence taken on oath before the thanadar,
who sent me word that there was nothing whatever stated, which could
in any way incriminate Murad; his suspicions against him were now
entirely removed, and he believed his narrative to be substantially
true. This result gives me the greatest satisfaction. I congratulated
Murad upon it, and pointed out how necessary it was for his own sake
that the rumours to his prejudice should have been sifted and refuted.
He now holds up his head again, and is quite ready to accompany me, but
requires an advance of cash; so I gave him the sum he asked, twenty
rupees.
25th September. Bella Shah and his nephew and other people came to see
me, and we had a long and interesting conversation on the circumstances
connected with M. Schlagentweit's journey and death. Bella Shah's
relative says, that the Chinese authorities of Yarkand are not inimical
to the British, and would have treated M. Schlagentweit hospitably and
with honour. The borders of the country of Andejan are three days'
march from the city of Yarkand. This territory contains eleven large
cities, is a month's journey in width, and joins its frontiers to the
provinces of Russia, which country has recently erected and established
a military cantonment on its frontier, after some opposition and
fighting. Peace now prevails, and a large amount of trade is carried
on. Even British goods find their way by this route through Bokhara,
where only any duty is levied, and that light, computed at two and
a half per cent. I questioned Bella Shah as to why he, an eminent
merchant, did not introduce British manufacturers by the Ladâk route.
He replied, that the exactions were too heavy, and the difficulties of
the route caused heavy expenses. He did send calicoes and piece goods,
but sometimes found the market overstocked by consignments from Russia.
It was so at present: such goods were selling in Yarkand for half their
original value. It seems unfortunate that the Indian government did not
support Moorcroft in his schemes for opening up these vast regions to
British commercial enterprise. Russia has now established her influence
here, and makes a good thing of it.
I have been purchasing some warm articles of felt clothing for my fat
friend the lumbadar of Eish Mackahm; then took a warm farewell of Bella
Shah. Yesterday evening, when Murad returned from the thanadar, that
functionary sent with him a man denounced by Murad as having in his
possession property to the value of 1008 rupees of M. Schlagentweit's.
The man admitted to having been entrusted with goods to that amount
by M. Schlagentweit who had sent him on arrival at Khylian to a
neighbouring village to dispose of them. He followed M. Schlagentweit
on to Yarkand, thinking to find him there, and was himself made
prisoner. The goods, he said, were safe in the hands of other parties
in Yarkand. Mahomed Dahomey had sent a sepahu to him from the Andejan
country to give up this property, but he had refused to comply without
due authority. The thanadar sent me word that, if the man did not
give up the goods at my bidding, he would send him to Lahore to be
dealt with. I sent directions to the thanadar to act himself in the
matter, and take such steps as he deemed best to procure the property,
and transmit it to British authority. He sent to me this morning to
write him an order so to act. I have, therefore, given him an official
authority, as a British officer, in the absence of other legitimate
authority, to search for, and possess himself of, all or any effects or
papers of the deceased, and duly apprise the Punjab government when he
may succeed. This seemed to me the rational course to take.
26th September. Every one astir ere dawn amid a scene of bustle and
confusion. The shikarries and even all my servants, Abdoolah told me,
had resolved to indulge themselves with tattoos. Not the remotest
objection on my part, as I would only pay for Abdoolah's and the
moonshi's. I tipped jemadar, gopal, and the old bunga who was anxious
that I should not forget his name, in order to bring his case before
the Maharajah. Abdool, the whilom guide, appeared and undertook to lead
the way out of the labyrinth of paths, and then took his leave with
proper salaams. I believe the poor creature is really grateful for the
treatment he has received from me, a rare feeling among Asiatics.
We arrived without any adventure at Mimah, and camped in an enclosure.
The evening was delightfully fresh, even rather chill, rendering a
clear crackling fire pleasant to sit and think or chat over. My nights
now, unbroken by that terrible oppression of lungs experienced further
north, pass in tranquil and refreshing repose. If I do awake, it is but
to enjoy the realisation of my condition of health and security under
God's blessing and providence.
27th September. We altered our course from that in coming, Subhan
recommending the road by Sassapool instead of Hemschi, the abatement of
the waters of the Indus now having rendered the lower road practicable.
No ways loath, mindful of the stony hilly demerits of the other, it
was so ruled. The road as far as Sassapool was very fair. Subhan
recommended a move on to Noorla, as it was yet early, about 9.30
A.M., and that place not distant. In this, however, he was much
mistaken. The path led along the banks of the Indus, up and down
precipitous rocks, rough, difficult, and most wearisome, the distance
such that we did not reach Noorla till 4 P.M. There was little
hope of the baggage coming up till night, and the Cashmere coolies
could hardly be expected at all. I determined to make the best of the
lots of walnuts to be had for the pelting, and some apples.
At dusk Ali Bucks came up with the disagreeable news of all the Bhoot
coolies, who were taken in relay at Sassapool, having bolted; that
a few things only were coming on, and that Abdoolah and the sepoy
were endeavouring to press other people. I soon had some chupatties
made, which with some cold meat formed an excellent dinner: I got some
Yarkand tea also which was quite flavourless, but being hot did well
enough. Buddoo and the large tent now came up, but no bed or bedding.
However, I contrived very well with part of the outer fly of the tent
and one or two nambas spread on the ground; and Abdoolah, the sturdy,
invincible Abdoolah, having arrived and reported things all on the way,
though far distant, describing the difficulties and struggles attending
the flight of the former coolies and the forcible enlistment of the
new lot, I rolled myself up, little Fan nestled close on one side, and
Sara stretched out under the covering on the other, and passed a fair
night, though often disturbed by the irregular arrival of the grumbling
coolies. The gopal of this place was reported to be drunk from 'bang,'
when we arrived, and was not only useless, but saucy and obstructive.
I sent him a threatening message, when the fumes were leaving his
faculties somewhat clearer, which had the desired effect of providing
for our wants.
28th September. Finding that everything had arrived during the night,
I determined to reach Lama Yurru to-day. I enjoyed a pleasant walk
at a good pace to Kalsee, to which place Kamal had been despatched
an hour ere dawn to direct a relay of coolies. It was here that I
purchased the crop of corn for my camp. On enquiring of the gopal, he
pointed to the produce remaining stuck up in the walnut tree. I amused
myself by the consternation with which he received my demand for the
restitution of a rupee in consideration of this harvest. My followers,
however, helped themselves liberally to walnuts on the strength of
it. The jemadar of the bridge fort, who had been uncommonly civil and
obliging when coming, advanced from his fortalice to salute me, and,
on my entering the doorway, presented a tray of apples, congratulating
me on my safe return. A Co. rupee 'backsheesh' called forth abundant
thanks, and I passed the wooden bridge over the Indus, and was soon
in that tremendous gorge leading up to Lama Yurru, the scenery truly
magnificent in its savage grandeur, the road full of precipitous ups
and downs, and running as a mere ledge over fearful depths and chasms.
My old nag, on which I was mounted, was a little nervous at these
slight shelves so projecting, some of which were formed on pieces
of timber let into the smooth side of the perpendicular cliff, and,
besides having an ominous leaning downwards, were very shaky and full
of holes. The old Yarkandi snorted with alarm, craned in front, and
dashed forward when urged, trying to jump the suspicious spots. But for
this pusillanimous conduct he sought to make amends by dashing at the
stairlike path up hill, and springing up at full gallop. I much enjoyed
the excitement of this hap-hazard ride. The weather was delightful, and
the surrounding scenery full of romantic charms.
We reached the halting-place, and things arrived in due time. I made
enquiries after the yâk I had wounded. The villagers interrogated
pretended ignorance, which naturally persuaded us that the animal had
recovered, and on the gopal arriving he at once told us that it was
so. My ponies' shoes requiring replacing, nailing, &c., I had sent off
for a smith who resided some six miles off. Night approached, but no
man of iron. Lamenting this as a serious mishap, the gopal volunteered
to do the job, and set to work, and in such a manner as to keep me
on tenter hooks, lest he should lame my nags; his hammer, a little
round-headed tool, falling with unsteady aim, driving the nail this way
and that. One only having been driven home, and another with difficulty
extracted, he relinquished the attempt until morning, daylight now
quite failing. Should I ever undertake a similar journey in such
barbarous regions, I will go provided with farrier's tools, shoes, and
nails, and do my own shoeing.
It was very cold here, snow falling on the mountains; and a bitter
cutting wind blowing with sharp frost reminds me of the Karakorum. But
I can find means here to repel the cold, which there no precaution
could effect.
29th September. Leaving the gopal at work at the horses, I marched
off, wishing to outstrip the coolies already started, as there was
some chance of seeing shâpu as on the former occasion. But many people
were passing to and fro, so that any animals were scared from the
neighbourhood of the path. It was a stiff pull up the mountain to the
pir, but I did not dislike the work, the lungs here playing freely;
then, down again by a long slope into a valley where the trusty Kamal
had provided a fire and fresh milk. Having breakfasted, I mounted
and had gone but a few paces, when a duck rose from the stream and
resettled. The gun was at hand, and the bird soon potted. On nearing
Karbo, our halting place, as I was descending to the stream watering
the valley, the shikarries signalled me and I was at once aware of a
number of teal in the ford just under us. I got the gun, and creeping
to a position to enfilade them delivered right and left as they rose,
stopping six of their number. As they appeared to settle some way down
stream, I followed along the bank, and again came upon them. Three fell
to one barrel, the other did not go off. But I had committed slaughter
enough.
Waterfowl are not numerous in this country, there being no 'jheels'
or feeding grounds for them apparently. But in Chan-than and
Roopschoo, where these qualifications are plentiful, they abound. In
Cashmere, at this season, they swarm in the lakes and rivers; snipe
also are numerous, and that splendid bird, the woodcock, not rare
in the jungles; so that, what with pheasants and partridges, the
shot-sportsman may find ample amusement. Should I obtain my extension,
I must try a day or two by way of experiment to see what there really
is to be got.
30th September. Sunday. An exceedingly sharp frost. I took a stroll,
morning and evening; the weather all that could be desired, and
scenery magnificent, though monotonous in colour. The remains of an
extensive fort crown the lofty height immediately over the village.
One is led to wonder under what condition of circumstances this small
valley could have been of sufficient importance to be worth such a
considerable defensive work. Many like ruins are met with in these
valleys, mostly perched on inaccessible rocks. The shikarries--not
reliable historians--tell me that the population generally inhabited
these strongholds, prior to the conquest of Lower Thibet by Golab Sing,
being subject to frequent inroads and depredations by roving bands of
freebooters. So, in fact, I suppose that the cultivators of every one
of these strips of valleys retired from their daily labours to the
security of these forts, their only residence.
I enjoyed my day's halt and repose, and took the opportunity of
pointing out to the shikarries and others assembled round the fire the
wisdom and beneficence of the Sabbath ordinance, well exemplified in
the enjoyment displayed by the coolies and horses in this respite from
their toils. I tried to describe a Sunday in England, with the general
stillness and tranquility prevailing, save the bells ringing out from
the many churches, and the troops of worshippers to be seen wending
their way in obedience to that cheerful mandate. My audience seemed to
approve much of such a rule and practice, but did not, I imagine, think
it applicable to themselves.