LADÂK.
7th July. Up at the earliest dawn, and off, with a string of tattoos
and foals following. I did not understand the meaning of this, but
ere the journey had well commenced discovered that the shikarries had
craftily schemed to save their shoe leather, and through the influence
of my 'purwanah' had persuaded the moonshi to press these animals into
our service. Poor Subhan, however, had as leader to march before me who
had resolved not to ride before breakfast at any rate.
The road was very fair, always accompanying the river, and leading
through hamlets such as have been already described, some of much
interest, with their narrow lanes of rose bushes which were one mass of
blossom, and delightfully fragrant. In one place, was a hedge of yellow
roses covered with blossoms which were, unlike the red, double and
well-formed, but of inferior perfume. The red rose hedge on one side,
and yellow on the other, had a pretty effect; and I imagine their being
thus placed to be purely accidental.
We tramped on manfully, Subhan and I, the other fellows riding with
the moonshi in the rear, for some three or four hours, when arriving
at a thriving village where we were to change coolies, not horses,
I stopped to breakfast, and on the arrival of attendants started
afresh about noon, it being cloudy and tolerably cool. I mounted the
moonshi's tattoo, a well-bred, nice looking mare; and oh! the bother of
regulating the stirrups, or trying to do so, for I had to ride, after
all, with one some eight or nine inches longer than the other; and such
a hard scrimpy, little bit of a saddle--I should have been better off,
had I walked the whole distance, long though it was, I believe.
Soon after leaving this village we passed through another, and left a
large cultivated valley on our right, entering upon a track of rocky
desolation.
From the base of the mountains to the river's brink was nothing but
heaps of stones, apparently water-worn stones, a very wilderness of
stones--ten thousand Londons might have been paved from them, and
they would not have been missed. The mountains, big, brown, and ugly,
towered behind them; the sun came out fiercely, the saddle pinched,
the stirrup leather galled, the little mare, weary, fumbled drearily
along through the loose stones, and I did not altogether feel as
though I liked it. However, I was charitable to the poor little nag,
and, barring an occasional impatient jerk of the bridle and a mild jog
of the heel, took no steps to urge her to greater exertions. So, on
we slowly wended our weary way, the country after a while improving,
and again presenting verdant stretches of cultivation with the usual
accompaniment of willow trees, and now, not unfrequently, poplars,
most of which, like Greenwich pensioners, had lost a limb or two, or
been otherwise maimed. Hedgerows of roses became more abundant, and
one or two small villages were lovely with them, and their rich crops
of grain--beans, peas, and lucerne, all in bloom--adding beauty and
fragrance to the scene. Bright sparkling water, too, in plenty trickled
across and down our path.
But, though I tried hard, I could not properly enjoy all these charms:
I was so weary and uncomfortable. Some five or six miles beyond where
I looked for our halting-place, Kargyl, we at length reached it--an
irregular basin, into which flows the river I have been following,
and another from the east, both united flowing out in a northerly
direction as a large rapid river. A square fort with corner turrets is
the principle feature, glaring with whitewash. The crops all around are
fresh and green, the whole surrounded by massive mountains of varied
form, but of one hue of sombre brown.
8th July. Sunday. A delightful fresh morning, which induced me to
take a stroll before breakfast, feeling now perfectly recovered
from yesterday's fatigues. I had pitched my tent in a small tope of
young poplars, in the midst of which some clear water, escaped from
a channel in the hill above, had found its way moistening the ground
and producing fine green turf, but leaving a dry sandy space for a
tent. Sand-flies were numerous and pertinacious. During the night I
was suddenly roused with a sensation of something in my hair; raising
my hand I clutched something of peculiar substance, but felt it had
legs. I threw it on one side shuddering, and was amused this morning
at seeing the object of my fright on the canvas over my head--a large,
fat, green caterpillar, with a pair of tweezers at his tail, with which
he held on.
My stroll led through the small fields hanging on the hill-side,
supported by rough stone walls in terraces, the crops rich and
beautifully green. My path was agreeably lined by rose bushes.
Many flowers and sweet scented herbs were also on either hand, and
some poplars and a fine mulberry tree or two were a great addition
to the general features of the landscape. I turned here or there,
following the windings, and ups and downs, of the borders of the
field, until I had gained an eminence overhanging the valley down
which the river rushed and foamed, fields lining its banks. It was
a very beautiful view, the lofty mountains exhibiting their massive
proportions well-defined at this early hour of the day, a haze in the
distance improving the effect. The air was cool, balmy, and delicious,
fragrant with the perfume of flowers. Long I gazed around, and much I
mused. There was much in the scene before me, and its fresh, sweet,
mild atmosphere, that reminded me strongly of other lands that I had
visited--Madeira, Malta, the Cape. There appeared to me a decided
blending of similarity with the two former, and also a trait or two
undefinable of the latter.
I was amused by the manoeuvres of a startled child, too small to
run away, who had been deserted by his companions, in alarm at my
approach. The 'wee' chap was squatted amid some tussocks, and clumps
of flag, the blue Iris, I think; and, as I advanced, he turned himself
round one, believing that he was effectually concealing himself from
the formidable monster approaching. But my sharp hunter's eye had at
once detected him, and without stopping, lest he might be too much
terrified, I spoke to him caressingly--at least, I tried to. This was
before I paused and mused, as above. When I returned, he was still
beside his fancied screen, but no longer performed his evolutions.
He gazed on me still with evident wonder and awe, though at the same
time somewhat reassured, so I did not approach too near. This slight
incident, somehow or other, had a pleasing influence on me, and sent me
back cheerful to camp.
The sky became overcast, and in the afternoon there was a violent wind,
and at last rain, so I kept my covering.
9th July. A very cloudy morning saw me under-weigh at 5 A.M.
We crossed the river by a good wooden bridge on rough stone piers,
situated just below my tent. Then, ascending the other side, and
mounting a stiffish hill, we found ourselves on a table land--open
undulating downs--closed in, of course, by mountains. These downs had
but a tinge of green, as from the sandy soil and want of water there
was but a very light, sparse herbage on them. The air was delicious,
cool, and fresh, the rain of yesterday having purified the atmosphere,
and brought out all the latent perfume of the plants around.
I tramped gaily on, chatting with Subhan, the other shikarries keeping
in the rear on tattoos. I had given no permission or authority for
engaging these ponies, and was rather puzzled to know how they were
provided. However, I said nothing, intending to ascertain in the
evening, as I had no notion of paying for ponies for these lazy scamps.
Knowing the parties, I suspected some underhand tricks.
The path for some miles led up a stream bordered by fields interspersed
with roses, a few houses here and there; then, leaving the village of
Pashgyam, it entered upon a barren ravine, running along the hill-side;
and so on, until we came upon more cultivation and a pretty village,
where in a charming spot under some willows, by a clear brawling brook,
I stopped for breakfast, having been on the march four hours.
My food was not altogether satisfactory; half my tea had oozed out
of the bottle; one egg was all yellow, instead of that colour being
confined to the yolk. This was pitched into the stream. Another with
a slight touch of the jaundice I devoured reluctantly, and repented
having done so afterwards. And from the condition of my dough cakes
I think Ali Bucks must be moulting, the black hairs are so numerous,
and being long they cannot be extracted. Small matters these to an old
campaigner. I got some good fresh milk, and the fine air was 'edibles.'
After a while, I noticed the arrival of a sepoy with a native who
remained discussing something with the shikarries, Mr. Phuttoo being
principal. This lasted some time, and they, perceiving that I noticed
what was going on, moved away. I called Subhan, and asked him what the
sepoy wanted, and what they discussed. Nothing at all, he assured me.
Shortly after, a Thibetan came rushing down to me, vociferating and
claiming protection; and it turned out that these rascally shikarries
had pressed his tattoos by some connivance of the moonshi at Kargyl. I
directed them to be given up at once, and turned away in disgust from
these lying knaves. It is no use saying any thing. They tell you that
it is the 'dustoor,' the custom of the country; and they all practise
oppression over each other, whenever they possibly can.
I forgot to record before, that the shikarries told me on the morning
I left the camp before reaching Sooroo, a place where they had assured
me we should have two or three days' good sport with ibex, that a man,
a friend of Subhan's, tending ponies pasturing there, had confided to
him the previous night, that the Sooroo kardar, hearing that a 'burra
saheb' was coming to 'shikar,' and apprehending that if he found sport
he would stop some days and would be troublesome to him for supplies,
had sent men with guns and dogs to hunt and scare away the game;
that they had killed one ibex, and only left the place the evening we
arrived. On first hearing this, I scouted the idea; it was so very
improbable. But Subhan and the others repeated the story with such
asseverations, and so many plausible corroborations, that I partly
believed them. On arriving at Sooroo these knaves assumed a high tone,
and frightened the poor old kardar who did not come near me for some
time; but having appeased the shikarries by a 'douceur,' as I suppose,
they told him I would receive him, and forgive him on apologising. Now
I believe the whole story to have been false from beginning to end,
and actually plotted and devised to extort something from the kardar.
Verily, in these parts, all men are liars.
We continued our route, and plodded on, the sun now hot, finally
arriving at our camping place, the village of Shazgool, a Buddhist
place, with the lama's house curiously built into the face of a
perpendicular rock looking down on the village, a shabby tumble-down
place, and some tombs or shrines tawdrily painted with clumsy devices
of hideous demons on them. These are paltry looking constructions, of
mud principally.
This was a small village of some nine or ten houses in a dilapidated
condition; but they are all apparently in like bad case, the
inhabitants miserably poor, judging from their appearance and
surrounding indications. But they seem to be stout, healthy, and
cheerful. The women, I fancy, do most of the work, as with all
barbarians. A large wicker basket seems to be a fixture on their backs,
and with this appendage they are seen busy in the fields, weeding,
putting every shred of herbage so gathered into the said basket which
by evening is filled, when they return, and the produce of their
industry serves for fodder for cow, sheep, or goat, every blade of
vegetation being of value in these barren regions, where nothing grows
but what is actually extorted from reluctant nature. How different from
the adjoining country of Cashmere, where, on the other hand, nature is
profuse in her gifts, covering mountain and valley with the richest
herbage, and yielding heavy crops of cereals to the merest scratches of
the plough. Both are wonderful countries: Cashmere, for its beauty and
fertility; Thibet, for its savage desolation and sterility. The natives
of each land, too, partake strongly of the relative characteristics of
their native land: the Cashmiries, famous for personal beauty,--the
Thibetans, as notorious for ugliness. Strange, though, they possess
some taste; for almost every individual of the numbers met travelling
yesterday and to-day had a bunch of yellow roses, or other bright
flowers stuck in his greasy cap.
10th July. On the march at 5 A.M.--the path as ever in these
mountainous regions running by a stream threading the narrow valley.
Here and there was a strip of green cultivation, with brown mountains,
mounts, huge hillocks, all barren, some craggy, others smoothly
rounded, heap on heap, pile on pile, here falling sloping back,
allowing the eye to range over many successive wave-like summits, there
rising up abruptly with crags, and clefts, and dark ravines, closing in
upon and overshadowing the narrow valley. I tried to find some mode of
description by which one might give a person verbally some tolerable
idea of the combined desolation and grandeur of these scenes; but all
in vain.
We had a long and fatiguing ascent, prior to which we passed through
the village of Waka, near which abutting on the path, is a sculptured
rock standing alone, representing a Hindoo deity. The figure is carved
on the face of the rock which is of granite, I think, the height
about thirty feet, and the workmanship the average of what one sees in
Hindostan. A small mud building closes in the lower extremities of this
idol, in which is a shrine; and I found within garlands, and signs of
recent worship, some few professors of Hindooism residing close by. The
natives call this idol, Mohir Chamba, and say it is of great antiquity;
but to me the chiselling appeared fresh and sharp. This, however, from
the hard quality of the stone would be the case for a length of time,
especially in this dry climate. There are few Hindoos now in Thibet,
Buddhism being the prevailing creed. Many mussulmans are scattered
among them.
Men are now met with wearing pig-tails, Chinese fashion. They have a
different cap, too--a long bag of black woollen stuff which is turned
over, covering the top and one side of the head. The Maltese, if I
recollect right, wear one precisely similar.
Finding no shelter from the sun after breakfast, having halted an
hour we continued our route, now downwards, until we descried one or
two willows in a hamlet; for which we made, and glad enough we were
to escape the sun's scorching rays, and rest ourselves. We moved on
again about two o'clock--much too soon; and, after two or three miles,
further grilling, we stopped at Karbo, our halt.
There are many Buddhist monuments here, rude tombs of mud and loose
stones. The principal feature is a thing like a great sugared cake,
perhaps intended to represent an urn: adjoining and connected with
this is a raised oblong, varying in length--some are ten feet, some
twenty, others fifty--built up of stones, about four feet high, the top
flattish, and covered all over with loose flat stones, all sculptured,
both in figures and letters. These tombs contain the bones of sainted
lamas, I believe. They are very inferior to the tombs and pagodas met
with in Burmah, some of which are beautiful specimens of architecture,
and extremely picturesque. All I have seen here as yet are mean and
paltry. These monuments are whitewashed, the wash remarkable for its
lustrous quality. I questioned Phuttoo as to the composition. He said
it was a substance dug out of the earth. I observed that it differed
much from that in use in India. He said, it was not 'chunani.' I
imagine it to be a kind of chalky pigment.
11th July. Away, with the dawn, though we had not so long a march in
prospect as those of the two previous days, which must have been over
twenty miles. But it is well to start early to enjoy the freshness of
morn, and avoid the excessive heat of the sun which I really think I
endure better than the shikarries. The scenery of to-day was similar to
that of yesterday, which is, I imagine, the type of the entire region,
unless the banks of the Indus present any variety: if so, it will only
be in the height and formation of the mountains. There was a gradual
ascent, with a sharp pitch at the end, to the summit of the hill on
which was a stone Buddhist monument, and in its shade I stopped to
breakfast. From this eminence the view was extensive and interesting,
the adjacent mountains possessing peculiar features, and being so
distributed as to afford good distances.
I stopped till the small building no longer protected me from the sun;
then, perforce, braved his potent rays, and pursued my route on to Lama
Yurru, our intended bivouac.
As we descended to the level of the valley, opening a bend I detected
some wild looking animals moving from among some cattle. Subhan, after
a while, declared them to be shâpu, wild sheep; so guns were got ready,
and with small prospect of success, the ground being level and bare,
we prepared to stalk them. The game, numbering some twenty-five head,
rufous coloured animals, of deer-like form and action, with two small
upright horns curving backwards, were gamboling, moving here and there;
nor did they become aware of dangerous neighbours, until we were about
a hundred yards from them, when they stood gazing for some seconds,
presenting a fair mark. But, alas! my lungs were heaving so that I
could not take aim, Subhan, in spite of my oft-repeated lectures and
warnings, hurrying on 'ventre a terre,' so that with the attitude
I was quite distressed, and only looked and longed at the inviting
target before me, entertaining a sort of hope that they would give me
time. But not so; a few seconds only to gaze, and away they cantered
in a string across us. Rising, I aimed at the line; the ball struck
true in direction but low, I think, the scared animals dashing aside
right and left. A thud, however, was heard, and we all thought that
one was hit; when looking some little distance beyond, there stood an
unfortunate bullock, one hind leg slightly raised from the ground, and
blood trickling down. There was only time for an exclamation or two as
we followed the herd now making for a hill, when they were on which I
fired my battery at them, the distance three or four hundred yards, the
balls striking right amongst them--wonderful how they all missed!
Now came full upon me the sense of my misfortune and ill luck. There
stood the hapless bullock patiently and silently enduring his wrongs,
his poor wounded leg still shrinking from the ground on which the
oozing blood was frothing. I was much annoyed and grieved at this
mishap. The poor wounded creature looked so melancholy in its patient,
silent attitude, and I feared the wound was mortal. The ball from
Whitworth, striking the ground, had doubtless glanced, and so struck
the wrong animal. I loudly deplored my ill luck: the shikarries
dumbfounded muttered together, attributing such a strange accident
to the undue influence of evil spirits; and we pursued our way down
the dusty path, until the green vale of Lama Yurru greeted our aching
eyes--a remarkable place, a stronghold of Buddhism, a monastery and
other dwellings of lamas being perched on the top of a singular ridge
of rocks of some hundred and fifty feet perpendicular, scooped and
hollowed out here and there, divided into buttresses over which were
laid the floors of these curious buildings which themselves appear well
constructed of sun-dried brick, of two or three stories in height--one
the principal mansion of four. Some have little balconies projecting;
all have windows, some good-sized and regularly placed, while a number
of small loopholes are scattered about the walls. These buildings slope
inwards from the base slightly, on the pyramid principle, as I believe
all the houses of this country do. Many monuments and tombs are here.
Long rows of them stretch along parallel with the path, looking just
like a line of huge chess pawns with square pedestals.
A considerable extent of terraced fields along the stream attest
the comfortable circumstances of this community. Clumps of yellow
and common roses are numerous; but sad havoc has been played with
the willows, the stump of many a fine tree recently felled being
conspicuous: but about half-a-dozen remain standing. I have not
ascertained for what purpose this unusual cutting has taken place:
perhaps, some new building or extensive repairs are in contemplation.
My tent is pitched on a nice bit of turf, a stream of clear water close
at hand, guided to turn a small mill which rumbles away beside me.
On reaching this place I threw myself down disconsolate beneath a shady
willow, the shikarries endeavouring to divert me from my gloomy mood
by anecdotes of accidents and mishaps of a far more melancholy colour
than mine;--how a shikarry had shot a man in his own field for a bear,
this very man having indicated that identical spot as the place the
bear would be found in, then by fate being led thither himself, and,
concealed by the high grain, there slain. Several similar instances
were narrated. Phuttoo, the most eloquent and storied of the trio,
winding up with an astounding accident that befell his father who,
when with Golab Sing and his army, in some unaccountable manner shot
a bear; the ball, passing clean through the bear, killed outright six
sepoys, all in a lump, and wounded a seventh in the arm. The Maharajah
conducted an inquest personally on this lamentable slaughter of his
warriors, and found the circumstances so marvellous, and Phuttoo
senior's 'kizmet' so wonderful in effecting such destruction with one
ball, that he over-looked the loss of his men, and presented him with
two hundred rupees, backsheesh;--a nice, veracious, little narrative
this. The other shikarries, of course, vouched for its accuracy.
On arrival I despatched a man to ascertain the nature of the wound
of the bullock, and to whom it belonged, in order to compensate the
owner. Resolved not to hunt to-morrow, needing some repose after these
long marches, I arranged to send out two villagers to scout. After
dinner the messenger returned, bringing intelligence of the wounded
beast which turned out to be a cow, less valuable in these parts than
a bullock; which latter, being used for carriage of merchandise, are
more highly prized. The wound he seemed to think not mortal. I differ:
a Whitworth bolt is no trifle, and the frothing blood a bad symptom.
All the natives of the place came to look at us, and visit the
shikarries, Phuttoo being known to some of them. One of the group
had in his waist-belt a double flageolet, or rather whistle, which I
requested him to play. He made an attempt or two, but failed except
to produce some unsatisfactory notes, excusing himself on the plea of
nervousness and alarm at performing before so great a dignitary. The
two pipes are in unison, I think.
I am going to remain here three or four days; certainly over Sunday,
whether sport is found or not, as I want my servants and things from
Sirinuggur to join me. My original plan was for them to meet me at
Kargyl; but the shikarries made such a bad bunderbus, dissuading me
from sending orders from Shugkenuz, as I proposed, that they could only
have started from Sirinuggur on the 6th, and we reached Kargyl on the
8th, to which place it is ordinarily eight days' march from the former
place. A longer delay is likely to take place owing to a deficiency
of coolies, as the messenger of a saheb 'en route' to Ladâk informed
us. He said, the Maharajah was sending his whole army to subdue the
Gylghit tribes who were in open revolt against his authority, and that
all available means of transport had been taken up to accompany the
force. He told me there were fears entertained that my baggage could
not be sent on at present. This would be unfortunate as I am out of
powder nearly, and should have to send in and wait the return of the
messenger ere proceeding further. But the Baboo would have written
in such an extremity: so I hope, four or five days hence, to welcome
my belongings. This messenger overtook us on the march from Kargyl:
he is in the employment of Lieut. Brinckman, 94th, who has gone into
Chan-than, beyond Ladâk, on a shooting expedition; where I had thought
of going but for the strong dissuasions of Phuttoo who represented
that country as a most sterile, dusty, and difficult region to
traverse, everything--even to grass--having to be carried, and the wild
yâk, the only object worth the trouble and risk, even if seen, which
was exceedingly doubtful, a most difficult creature to approach.
On these and other similar representations, I abandoned the idea,
limiting my travels eastward to Leh and its environs, where I propose
remaining a few days, giving Suleiman an opportunity of offering
his Scriptures, &c.; thence to make my way to Iskardo, returning to
Cashmere through the Tilyl valley, by which time the bara sing will be
in season.
12th July. I took a saunter along under the lamas' dwellings, then down
into the barley fields--very pleasant this leisurely stroll after my
three days' hard, broiling work. The two villagers, sent out at dawn
to scout, returned with the unsatisfactory information that they had
searched far and wide, but seen nothing. However, we did not place much
dependence on them.
In the evening, taking my glass, I went off myself in the direction
in which it was stated the game would be found, if anywhere. But not
a vestige of shikar could I discover. I saw Subhan go by on the same
errand, and returned to dinner. On coming back he reported a barren
country without a trace of game.
I had great doubt about trying to-morrow, but after some consultation
determined to convince myself on the question of game or no game; and,
if none should be found, to shift camp on Saturday across the Indus
to Kalsee, reported by the shikarries to be a nice village, with many
trees, and undoubted shikar in the neighbourhood; so that will be a
pleasanter locale in which to await my things, and it is but eight or
nine miles off.
The owner of the wounded cow came to report on the health of that
unfortunate quadruped which by his statement is alive, but in a bad
way, lying down and eating nothing. I fancy something definite will be
known to-morrow.
13th July. I started at dawn with not very pleasant anticipations of
my day's work, expecting very hard walking in a barren stony country,
with hardly a chance of sport. And so it turned out. We ascended hills,
and traversed table lands, and peered into gullies right and left, but
saw not a glimpse of game: so, after some three hours and a half of
this unsatisfactory toil, we descended to a stream on the road, hard by
where I shot the cow; there breakfasted, and returned to camp.
We again passed some of those curious Buddhist erections--long, oblong,
tomb-shaped piles. There were two about fifty yards long each, with
an interval of some thirty yards. The tops were slightly slanted from
the centre, and covered with the smooth, flat, water-worn stones,
except a few yards left to be filled in by them. These stones were all
inscribed with figures, or Thibetan characters; and I endeavoured to
ascertain from the two native attendants, through the interpretation
of the shikarries, the meaning of the inscriptions, and the object
with which they were so placed. But my gleanings were very scanty,
the shikarries having but a limited stock of Hindostani phrases,
not a general knowledge of the language, and only a few words of
Thibetan. But thus much I made out; that every stone was similar
in its inscription, bearing the words--as well as I can letter the
sounds--Mâni, Pâni, Pudma-hoo--which I understood to be one of the
titles of their divinity, and that these engraved stones were thus
presented as an oblation and offering acceptable to their god--being an
act of faith and devotion from which as a consequence prosperity is
looked for. More I could not discover, the shikarries being very obtuse
in apprehending an idea on such subjects. These are not tombs, then,
but rather altars.
On return I announced my intention to move to-morrow. The lumbadar
came to see me. He had just returned from Leh, had a decided Thibetan
face, and wore some ornaments, necklace, ear-rings &c., of red coral
and turquoise. These appear to be the fashionable jewels here, nearly
all--the poorest even, in rags and tatters--having a bit or two stuck
about them. He showed me a card written by poor Moorcroft who perished
so sadly in Bokhara, bearing date June 16th, 1822, stating that he
had presented a coral to the monastery, as a token of his visit.
This lumbadar was an interesting fellow, evidently very bashful and
sensitive, but quick in apprehension and intelligent.
The cow case came up for final adjudication, the animal in the same
condition; so after some discussion I gave the owner the full price of
the cow, as stated, _viz_: six Maharajah rupees--only five shillings
English--and, if it recovered, so much the better, he would be a lucky
fellow. So ends this sporting episode. It has not been without its good
results in establishing the European character for justice.
14th July. We got away at 5 A.M., and took the path onwards to
Kalsee. It threads a narrow gorge giving exit to the waters of a
torrent, the scenery grand and savage--towering cliffs, beetling crags,
shutting out the sky. The path was conducted in the most irregular
evolutions and zigzags, and occasionally running almost into the river;
so much so that I was reduced to mounting Subhan at two places to keep
dry. We crossed several well-constructed bridges, and came upon a much
larger stream, which we followed through its devious windings to the
Indus. In one place it rushed along a channel cut in the solid rock,
each side level and scarped as though by man, the depth being some
twelve feet, and the width about six.
At length this ravine, opening out a little, debouched upon the valley
of the Indus running at right angles to our course, and here a dirty,
shabby-looking river, of some twenty or thirty yards in width, in a
narrow and sterile valley, the mountains on either side shelving down
so close to the river as to leave little more than a few yards of
level on which was the path. We saw on the opposite side men working
at a hole, and on our own met others with gold-washing implements,--a
wooden, flat, boat-shaped affair, with a cane-work frame, and ladles of
gourd. I believe the yield is very scanty.
On, about a mile, to a bridge over the Indus, on this side of which
is a Buddhist shrine; on the Ladâk side is a small fort of sun-dried
brick, very insignificant--a three-pounder would knock it into
'smithereens' in half a dozen rounds. There are three or four sepoys
here. All goods are weighed here, and pay duty before crossing.
It was about half a mile further to Kalsee: and pleasant, indeed,
it was to see the green trees and fields. The place appeared quite
civilised after the savage country we had traversed. There were large
gardens and fields fenced in by stone walls, fruit trees thickly
interspersed amid the grain, principally standard peaches, the fruit
now at about half its size. The whole wore a charming aspect of
industry and improvement. Passing along the walls, we came under the
village which, built on the side of a rocky hill, overlooks its smiling
terraced fields and orchards, now beautifully green. The path now led
under some fine spreading walnuts, affording delicious shade, a most
grateful relief to my aching eyes, parched and bloodshot from the
burning glare of the barren rocky regions I have been crossing.
No level spot of sufficient space, devoid of grain, being available
for my tent, I resolved to purchase the crop under a walnut tree, so
ordered the attendance of the Zemindar, with whom the shikarries and
sepoy bargained, the price being fixed at a pukka rupee. While this was
going on, an alarming attack was made upon the intruders from above.
The proprietor's better half, having got tidings from some busy-body of
what was going on, descending took up a position above us, and began
to wag her tongue violently, as some of the dear creatures can do.
Not relishing this music, and fearing that, if she was not satisfied,
we should have a constant repetition of it, I offered an additional
half-rupee, explaining my reason for this excessive liberality. This
being interpreted to the Zemindar caused him and the bystanders much
merriment, for I fancy that I made a hit in attributing a voluble
tongue to this howling harridan. All was now serene, and I was
installed in my barley field under the fine walnut tree; and much did I
relish my homely meal, reposing under its pleasant shade.
We had some talk on the prospect of sport here. There are ibex and
shâpu a few miles off, but not in any numbers, and the ground very
difficult: the latter information I regard little, feeling now equal
to anything. I despatched a villager, professing to know the haunts
of the animals, to procure accurate information; and on Monday mean
to try my fortunes in the chase again. I fancy myself now inured to
disappointment and ill-luck.
My tree did not effectually protect me from the sun when declining from
its meridian height; so about 2 P.M. it was oppressively hot,
and continued so long after sunset. I had not calculated on so sudden
a change of temperature, and was really unwell from its effects.
Lama Yurru always afforded a cool refreshing breeze; and there is a
considerable difference in the altitude of the two places, which gives
that place the advantage of the cooling influence of the snows on the
neighbouring mountain heights, from which Kalsee is too distant to
benefit at this season.
I turned into my little oven of a tent, the heat very great, and
innumerable sandflies adding their torments to its discomforts.
15th July. Sunday. After a restless night I arose not feeling much
refreshed, but taking a stroll, and ascending a hill, the fresh
morning air and fine bold scenery gradually had its beneficial effect
on mind and body. I mounted some distance, expecting a prospect in
the direction we should proceed to-morrow, where, by the way, Subhan
and Mooktoo have gone on their own suggestion to look about and
make enquiries. I found the view intercepted by an elevation too
considerable to encounter as I felt, so sat down amid the boulders,
still having a splendid prospect up the Indus, not seeing much of
the river but the adjacent mountains which were more varied in form
and broken up than usual here; and the colouring was this morning
rich, and yet subdued and toned down under the effects of a delicious
haze, the soft morning light sobering the too glaring browns of these
naked rocks, leading them away from the foreground by imperceptible
variations of shade--here and there a suspicion of olive green--until
they were lost in the pervading blues and greys of distance. The tone
was soft and mellow yet cool. I was charmed; and my mind soon took that
devotional phase which such influences are so apt to produce.
I returned in mind serene and cheerful to camp. I had directed my
tent to be shifted a few feet, by which move it was in shade all day,
and consequently I felt the heat less. Indeed, I did not experience
any discomfort from it, as a strong breeze from northward was blowing,
rustling among the leaves overhead, and sweeping with pleasant music
over the green crops bending and waving to its pressure, which would
have imparted an idea, if not a reality, of coolness to one, had it
been actually hotter. The shikarries returned, reporting the ground
to be entirely devoid of even the tracks of game. They had extended
their search over an extensive range, and had interrogated some native
shikarries shooting partridges, but the result ever the same--nothing.
We agreed, therefore, to shift camp to-morrow some eight miles further
towards Leh, and there try our luck. This country, however, is so
barren and desolate that I despair of sport here.
After dinner the shikarries came for a chat. I was interested in their
account of the brothers Schlagentweit who were some time in Cashmere,
prosecuting their explorations in natural science. Subhan had been in
their employ for some months, collecting specimens for them; and his
account thereof, and his amazement at such, to him, worthless rubbish
being thus treasured and sent to Europe, was very droll. It escaped in
the course of his narrative, that these talented naturalists were, from
their mysterious experiments, more than suspected of connection with
the Evil One, and of practising sorceries, &c.
Subhan, trying to put on an air of unconcern and incredulity, evident
uncertainty and suspicion evincing themselves in his tone and manner,
described how these 'savans' mysteriously and with cautious secrecy dug
holes in a garden at night, covering them over, and leaving a candle
or lamp burning near, he and others being ordered to watch and see
that no one meddled. "Nobody," said Subhan, "was ever allowed to see
what was put into these holes, and, when questioned, the sahebs told
them the matter was beyond their comprehension," But, he added, it got
about, and was confidently asserted, that these strange operators had
purchased a slave to whom they administered doses of 'shrâb' (spirits)
till he was insensible: they then buried him in the ground, in order
to make a good specimen to add to their collection. The shikarries all
eyed me in that peculiar manner denoting a partial belief in a wonder,
with a certain sense of its improbability. I burst out laughing,
of course, at this extraordinary misconception of some scientific
experiments, and believe I removed this lurking suspicion of black
deeds on the part of the innocent philosophers from their deluded minds.
I understand that search is still being made after the effects of
the unfortunate one of these three, whose death in the wild regions
north-east of Simla is yet enveloped in obscurity. I heard just before
leaving the Punjab, that some tidings had been received, and there were
hopes of recovering the poor fellow's effects and papers, the latter of
which would, doubtless, prove valuable to science.
All arranged for a move to-morrow.