CHAPTER VI.

SHIKAR IN THE WURDWAN

4th June. Up the valley, through some beautiful grassy bottoms along

the stream, most likely places for the resort of game. But we got over

some miles of ground, ere any glimpse of an animal was obtained: then

some ibex were seen up the mountain, which before long, scared by some

cause unknown, were seen in rapid career to the inaccessible summits.

We soon moved on: but in the gorge where the ibex were seen a bear was

descried, and the ground being favourable we gained his neighbourhood,

and a shot from the Enfield smote him in the shoulder. He made off, but

after receiving several more shots was brought rolling down.

We continued our course up the valley, still through most promising

coverts, far the prettiest shooting ground I had seen; we saw traces

of bara sing, and numerous of bears, and halted for the day in a clear

space, there to await the evening. Snow fell, and it became bitterly

cold. We took shelter under some firs, and after a time had a fire,

round which we squatted comfortably chatting.

In due time we moved back towards camp--saw a bear, and were about the

right place, when getting our wind he fled amain. Continuing our beat

carefully through the jungle, Subhan dropped to game, and, following

his indicator, I saw a dark coloured animal raise up its head. I said,

"it is a bullock": but no, it was a bear, an unusually large and dark

one, and when he looked up, with his ears pricked up, they looking like

short horns gave him the momentary appearance of some species of 'bos,'

such as the musk ox. But bear, and nothing else, was he.

We stalked, and raising our heads saw him immediately below us, not

half a dozen paces off, in a hollow. I aimed to take him between the

shoulders--off went the gun, and off went the bear, another shot

striking him; then he disappeared. I pursued with Phuttoo--lost all

traces, and turned, when we saw Subhan and Mooktoo in hot chase across

a snowdrift bridging the stream, on which we soon detected the bloody

tracks of the bear. Hopes were raised. The rocky, precipitous mountain

side was difficult to surmount, but I had faith in Subhan, especially

on a bloody trail.

Phuttoo and I, reconnoitring from below, espied the chase high up,

crossing the side of the hill at a slow walk. We hailed the pursuing

hunters, encouraging them in their efforts; saw them emerge, and enter

faithfully on the trail. Then we moved further on, and again I viewed

the chase higher up still, slowly making for a pine-clad crag where,

from its appearance, I judged he would pull up. Anxiety now became

extreme. The ground presented such difficulties, and I had lost sight

of the hunters, who I feared might have given up the chase in despair.

I sat in suspense, gazing upwards, and expressing hopes hardly

entertained to Phuttoo, when crack! went a rifle, the whereabouts

denoted by a small puff of smoke on the top of the crag mentioned. Now

all was serene. I felt sure of victory: when another shot, resounding

from a more distant spot, dimmed my bright hopes, and doubts again

assailed me--another shot, hopes again brightened--an exclamation

from an attendant behind, and the bear was seen clearly defined on

the snow, in a ravine leading down from the crag, evidently dropping.

Suddenly he rolled over, and simultaneously a shot rung out, and smoke

appeared from above him. He slid down the snow: the hunters came in

view following cautiously, and soon after we saw one discharge two

shots at the prostrate, but still formidable brute. Then huge stones

were cast at him, and he was pushed and hustled, till, getting way on,

he came rolling and sliding on the snow to the bottom of the ravine; to

which place we now made our way, and found our prey a monster for these

parts, by far the largest bear I have seen here.

He was riddled with bullets; my first shot had entered between the

shoulders, at the base of the neck, and came out at the belly: the

second struck him well in the middle of the shoulder. Yet he went off

as described, and was nearly lost, as many an one has been before. I

returned very "koosh"--the shikarries, too, proud of this capture, and

their share in it. The bear, they say, turned on them, and put them

to flight. They are great cowards these men, as, I believe, all the

Cashmiries are. Phuttoo, however, is an exception.

5th June. Again, up the valley some distance beyond yesterday's

beat--some most likely places for game. We saw some ibex in an

inaccessible place, and halted for the day.

At 2 P.M. we ascended, and gained a view of a fine stretch of

open grassy slope beyond our halting place, where the valley makes a

bend to the left. Here we stopped a couple of hours: nothing seen but a

bear out of reach. We descended, and wended our way down valley.

A bear was seen: we went after him, and disturbed two bara sing hinds

which were too knowing for us, so to our first attraction, whom we saw

disporting himself on the snow which he cantered across. We were after

him, when Subhan recoiled, saying there was another bear in the same

spot just quitted by the first.

True enough--so after him; and I was crawling to a position about one

hundred and twenty yards from him, when he twigged something wrong, and

looked up. He cocked his ears, when I cocked the rifle, and fearing

his flight I fired hurriedly, but hit him, I believe, well behind the

shoulder. He started, and staggered--then came straight for us. I

waited, prepared to give him second barrel. Passing a few paces above

us on the side of the hill, he gave an angry roar as he cast a passing

glance at us, and I gave him No. 2 somewhere in the ribs, whereat he

winced, but rolled on his course and vanished, Mooktoo on his tracks,

then the rest of us. But, sending Subhan to assist the former, Phuttoo

and I went after the first bear on our homeward route, but saw nothing

of him.

When a couple of miles or so from camp, a breathless villager met us,

and said there was a bara sing down by the river, not far from camp.

Much excited, he started off at a run. I made him walk, but talk, and

that loudly, he would; and when he suddenly pointed out the bara sing

in the valley below, he loudly proclaimed its presence. The animal was

evidently attentive and alarmed; so an attempt we made to approach it

was unsuccessful.

We made the bivouac; and from the prolonged absence of the two hunters

we entertained delusive hopes that they had secured the wounded bear.

But not so: they came in presently, having failed to get near the

brute, which had betaken itself to a steep craggy height. I regret this

loss much: he was a very large bear, of an unusually light colour, hair

very long.

6th June. Off in a direction towards my late bivouac, a sharp frost

and very cold. By the way, the frost was so severe on Monday, that the

water just poured out in a pewter cup to clean my teeth was frozen over

by the time I had washed my hands and face--pretty well for the 4th of

June.

I saw nothing at all; went nearly as far as the bridge, and then

returned to breakfast. Bear skins were laid out to dry--a sudden

thought striking me, I told Mooktoo I would give five rupees

'backsheesh' for the skin of the wounded bear, escaped yesterday. He

and Subhan have accordingly gone to try their luck, and I mean to go

with Phuttoo in the evening to look for the bara sing in the willow

bottom.

We went a short distance, but it did not put in an appearance this time

when wanted. The two hunters returned in the evening reporting the bear

to have gone miles away; but they had killed a female ibex, of which

feat they were very proud, and the camp and the village rejoiced in

the prospect of a feast of flesh; which, however, looked so uninviting

that I declined it, and my servants, Hindoo fashion, would not eat

it, because I would not; so the villagers had the more. I tipped the

shikarries one rupee each; but doubt much if they took up the trail of

the bear.

7th June. Remained in camp: resolved on an attempt on the ibex

to-morrow.

8th June. An early start, and a stiff job climbing the mountain, which

took us nearly two hours, and our toil was unrewarded by the sight of a

single ibex. The hunters carefully reconnoitred the whole neighbourhood

ineffectually.

Whilst at breakfast, they came and reported a bear in view, asleep

under a tree. I descended to the assault over difficult ground; and

Bruin, asleep with one eye open, was distrustful, and hearing the click

of my rifle, when cocking, made off. I fired three shots, all striking

him, and quite disabling him; two shikarries after him, who fired three

shots close by, and after some time I saw the wounded bear crawling

along, a considerable way off: after some time, three or four shots

more, then silence--again, a shot or two. Phuttoo and I remained on

the look out, wondering what the issue was; and thus for two hours, I

think, we waited, once getting a glimpse of the hunters far below us

in some jungle. They did, at length, return, bringing the bear's skin,

upon which some ten bullets were expended, and reporting that they had

wounded a female bara sing.

We remained up all day, though all hopes of ibex had been destroyed by

the noise of the repeated discharges: descended in the afternoon, and

going through some jungle I espied a deer, but could not get Subhan,

who was leading, to acknowledge my low signal which a brawling stream

close by drowned the sound of. I seized a rifle from Mooktoo, and

fired: the animal bounded out of sight. Subhan followed to see the

effect, and stopped, beckoning me on, so I knew the shot had told.

Hurrying to him, he pointed to the animal stretched on the ground,

and advised another shot which hitting the back, traversed the body,

coming out at the left shoulder. It was but a kustoora after all, but a

fine specimen, with long teeth protruding from the upper jaw.

9th June. Phuttoo and Mooktoo complaining of head aches, &c., Subhan

came at dawn to my tent, suggesting remaining in camp till evening. I

readily acquiesced, having had a hard day's work yesterday.

I started in the afternoon in a new direction; climbing the steep

fir-clad hill opposite the village, we reached the crest where we hoped

to meet with bara sing, but only saw their fresh tracks, so sat down to

watch.

Subhan ascended higher with the telescope, and returned after some

time reporting a bear as big as a bullock in sight, so we addressed

ourselves to approach him. Descending the hill-side, a splendid and

extensive grassy slope presented itself, along which we wended our way,

and after about a mile's walk came upon the bear, truly a very large

one, and justifying Subhan's comparison. I took my time to gain breath,

and as we were well placed as regards covert and wind did not hurry;

but, shifting position once or twice till satisfied, let drive Enfield,

upon which Bruin turned bewildered, and dashed down hill, partly in our

direction. I discharged the other barrel, also rifle, as he crossed a

snow drift filling the bottom of a ravine. He still held on, and was

commencing the ascent of the opposite hill, when I levelled Whitworth,

and down he came spinning, rolling over and over, to the snow, and then

slipping and sprawling down that, until he lay still, breathing his

last.

The whole party was triumphant: the shikarries got down to him: his

sides still heaved: the coolies came up, and, Subhan having by my order

cut the animal's throat to extinguish the remaining sparks of life,

they proceeded to take off the skin, and had opened it down the belly,

when, to their terror and my horror, the poor beast came to life again,

as it were, and with a violent movement uttered such a growl as sent

his tormenters flying in all directions. I put an end to him by a ball

in the head. This is another proof of their surprising tenacity of life.

He was truly a monstrous bear with huge limbs. This formidable beast,

it was stated, was the terror of the villagers, having devoured many

of their sheep, and put to flight some score of them, who with dogs,

&c. attempted his destruction. There was great rejoicing over his

destruction.

10th June. Sunday. Remained in camp as usual.

11th June. We moved camp this morning, as previously arranged to

Busman, the opposite side of the valley, and I pitched my tent in a

very picturesque spot, overlooking the village.

In the afternoon I went down valley, and killed a large doe bara sing,

which unfortunately was heavy with young. I much regretted this, but

the shikarries had no such scruples. They were delighted at possession

of so much meat, and set to work 'con amore' to break up the carcase,

a messenger being despatched to bring men from camp to carry in the

flesh. I did not feel at all elated at this success; but general

satisfaction pervaded my party.

One of the coolies, who accompanied the sepoy to Sirinuggur, arrived,

bringing nothing whatever with him. He said the sepoy would be detained

some days, until the Maharajah's arrival in the city, to whom he would

make his statement personally. The Baboo, too prudent would not trust

my letters to this coolie, by which I am much inconvenienced and vexed.

The Kardar of Palgham would not either trust him with the rice, &c.,

which had been ordered; and further said he could not supply it, as

there were five sahebs there to provide for. We, therefore, made

arrangements for a man to start early to-morrow to Shanguz, to procure

supplies there.

12th June. Up the valley leading to Bodicote in expectation of finding

ibex. We had a tremendous climb which, though very toilsome, was not

dangerous, but saw not a single ibex; we halted in a suitable spot to

wait until evening, in hopes of game appearing. There was a bear in

sight feeding below us, which, after some discussion, it was decided

ought to be left unmolested, for fear the report of the guns might

disturb ibex within hearing. Subhan went off to reconnoitre.

After breakfast I sat watching the bear which, having finished his

meal, came in our direction, and on to the snow in the ravine below

us, where, to my astonishment, he stretched himself out composedly

to snooze, apparently approving of cool applications to a distended

stomach. Subhan returned, and reported that he could see no ibex in any

direction, but had seen their tracks with those of dogs in pursuit; so,

auguring ill for our chance of those animals, we resolved to attack our

unconscious neighbour below, and descended for that purpose, but could

not get within a hundred yards of him; at which distance, aiming at his

head, I despatched an Enfield, which just missed him, and off he went

down the snow in the utmost amazement, and came nigh to breaking his

neck, but pulled up, ploughing deep into the snow with his long claws,

and sliding some distance--a most ridiculous object.

Having gained some three hundred yards thus, he stopped and looked all

round. We remained quite still, concealed by a rock. He then slowly

descended the rocks on our side, and, choosing a good site, there he

seated himself, looking anxiously from side to side. We waited, hoping

for an opportunity of quitting our position undiscovered: and so we

remained for half an hour at least, when Subhan, thinking we could

withdraw backwards out of sight, tried if it would do, and beckoning us

we stealthily followed, and, having gained a screen, turned and again

tried to renew our acquaintance with Bruin, who from the nature of the

ground could not now be seen.

We continued to descend the rocks towards his supposed position,

and had got close upon it without discovering him. Mooktoo, from

behind, made signals of seeing him, but Subhan and I could not catch

a glimpse of him, until we gained the projecting rock under which he

was sleeping, again thinking himself secure. The wind lifting his long

hair betrayed him. He was lying with his head towards us, not four

yards off, his head concealed by the rock, so I struck him between the

shoulders, when he dropped backwards, and away he rolled over and over,

in a most surprising manner. I saw him at one time high in mid air, as

he bounded from a projecting rock, as though he had been discharged

from a mortar: and he went rolling down the precipitous ravine for, I

should think, three quarters of a mile, much to the disgust of those

who had to descend and skin him,--a very fine large skin, with long

yellowish fur. We saw other bears as we descended in the evening, but

out of reach, so we got nothing more. It was a very hard day's work. We

had to cross a snowdrift over the river, in which was a large fissure,

which, however, only required nerve to cross safely.

13th June. Off to the place where I killed the doe bara sing. After

some time we saw a bear apparently in retreat up hill. Thinking it

useless pursuing, I turned towards camp; but Subhan pointed out the

bear stopping on the precise spot on which the bara sing had been cut

up, probably picking up the refuse. I resolved to try for him, so we

ascended, and, having gained our point, thought him clean gone, when I

saw something move in the bushes--again thought I was deceived, when

the shikarries twigged him in some bushes across the ravine--a long

shot. I struck him with an Enfield, evidently a severe wound, bringing

him down, and fired other guns at him, as after deceiving us, making

as though he were going to die on the spot, he went off in the jungle.

I sent the shikarries in pursuit, and ere long they appeared with

the dead bear, drawing him down the snow--a small brute riddled with

bullets.

On our way to camp we saw a fox with a splendid brush. I got within

some eighty yards of him, and levelled Whitworth, steadying him on a

rock--bang! and away went renard. Asking where the ball struck, the

shikarries said, high up above the fox. I thought this very odd, and

accused Phuttoo of putting in too much powder, who declared he had only

put in the regular charge. Meantime, the fox was running up and down,

and round and round, in an absurd manner, Mooktoo laughing at him, who

sung out he had dropped dead, and ran off to secure him. Phuttoo and

I, looking on, saw, as we thought, the animal betaking himself to the

hills at a good pace, and called out to Mooktoo to come back, saying

it was of no use. But on he went, not heeding us, and was soon seen

striking something, and then held up the dead fox, another having run

off, and deceived Phuttoo and me. The victim was shot right through

behind the shoulders.

14th June. A rainy morning, with every appearance of a continuance--so,

not unwillingly, I betook myself again to the comfortable warmth of my

blankets.

In the afternoon I went in the same direction as yesterday, and

seeing a bear high up on a hill, attempted to get at him--but in vain;

scrambled about the heights, but, seeing nothing more, gave up and

returned to bivouac.

15th June. Up ere dawn, a long day in prospect, it having been

determined to shift camp to a village on the opposite side of the

valley, and we hunters to climb a mountain, from which we should

descend to the bridge leading to our new quarters in the afternoon.

When rather more than half-way up a bear was descried, to which we

approached with due caution, but owing to the formation of the ground

could not get nearer than some hundred and fifty yards; so that I fired

at that distance, and struck him well in the middle of the shoulder.

Recoiling from the blow, he then made straight for our position, and

gained a rising ground just over us, when seeing us he paused, looking

very ugly, then turned, when trying my other barrel, it missed fire,

the cap being bad. We pursued and soon sighted the chase, in pursuit

of which Subhan and Mooktoo continued, Phuttoo and I looking on--the

mountain side, up which Bruin held his limping course, being spread out

plainly before us; and we had the unsatisfactory view of the abortive

efforts made to secure the wounded animal. The two hunters, not being

able to see the wounded bear as we did, made slow progress, expecting

to meet their foe at every step behind some rock; so Bruin, though

slowly dragging along, and occasionally pausing to look back, made two

paces to their one, and so disappeared over the crest of the mountain.

Whereupon, Phuttoo and I set off to climb up and rejoin the others.

And sharp work we had; but finally reached our two companions who, not

sighting the game, had given up the chase in despair.

We again set forward to gain a favourable spot to pass the day in,

where I proceeded to breakfast, the others retiring somewhere out of

sight. Rain and sleet driven by a furious wind now set in, with thunder

roaring majestically immediately above us. I screened myself as well

as I could under a fir tree, and passed the chill hours, some two or

three, reading.

A hind is seen coming forth to graze down below us; and the rain now

ceasing we descended in chase, but could not get near the wary creature

which, winding us, I imagine, from afar, was seen cantering smartly

away, ere we were within long shot of it.

On reaching camp we found the man, despatched on the 12th for

provisions, returned, having made a rapid journey. He had met

the sepoy who had been detained at Sirinuggur, and they had made

arrangements for the supplies required, now difficult to obtain from

some unexplained cause. They had, therefore, to be collected from

different villages, and the sepoy remained to convoy the bulk, Kamal,

a trusty quiet-mannered fellow, bringing three coolies laden with him,

also a complimentary note and presents from Ahmet Shah--some cherries

and cakes--and from my stout friend of Eish Mackahm some of his bread

cakes, before commended. By the way, he sent me a pair of gloves and

socks by the coolie last coming.

16th June. Much rain during the night, but a fair fresh morning which I

enjoyed much, reading. In the afternoon, forth to hunt.

Two hinds, young ones apparently, were seen descending the mountain.

We tried to intercept them; but a ravine divided us. Lying concealed,

we watched them gamboling beyond our savage hand's reach. They finally

ascended the hill, and gradually retired from our sight. A plan

was then formed to follow them, which took us up the mountain in a

direction to cut their route. A stiff and smart climb landed us on the

top; Subhan and Mooktoo went off to scout, Phuttoo and I lying in wait.

Two bears came in sight. Phuttoo and I, taking the rifles, moved

towards them. The others joined us, having seen nothing: but not having

yet examined the ground where the two deer must have passed, or might

yet be, I ordered it to be reconnoitred 'en route' after the bears,

and there was seen one deer lying down, its head and ridge of back

only shewing--distance about eighty yards. I paused for breath behind

a rise, the deer looking towards me; prepared rifle, and advanced a

little on my knees to get a firmer footing: the deer rose, and standing

erect presented its dun side full before me. Taking deadly aim I pulled

trigger, when--horror and disgust--the cap only exploded. Away bounded

the deer, and also the other--till now unseen, but lying still nearer

to us. I fired the other barrel as they gently moved up hill, but

ineffectually I believe. Away they went.

The guns had been kept all night in the covers which they were in

during yesterday's rain. I had directed the shikarries always to take

the leathern covers in the day time, and to put the woollen ones on

at night, and had for some time enforced compliance. But of late they

had departed from this rule. Finding the woollen covers more easily

disposed about their persons, they had carried them in the day, and

left them on at night. I think a strong impression was made upon them

by to-day's mishap, as thereby they lose a good supply of meat, which

is to them a great disappointment.

The two bears of course fled. And other game, both deer and bears, on

the side from which we had come up, seen while in the ascent, had also

vanished.

I determined to try another entire day on the same mountain on Monday,

and then to move forward by the Sooroo Pass towards Ladâk, supposing

the sepoy to arrive to-morrow. With him I expect a bullet mould for

the Whitworth, having sent in one of the smooth cylindrical bolts as

a pattern, the easiest of the two to manufacture, and which Phuttoo

and the others assure me can be easily made in the city; so I left

the matter in their hands. I did not bring a mould, thinking I had

bolts enough with me for that weapon, but had not calculated on the

astonishing vitality of the bears.

17th June. Sunday. A walk in the morning; and a delightful one it

proved. On returning, the long absent sepoy and some coolies were in

sight on the opposite side of the river, and in due time arrived with

letters, newspapers, supplies, &c.

18th June. We made a very early start to carry out a plan arranged on

Saturday night, to hunt a mountain on which we had seen bara sing.

But, from some whimsical notion or other, the shikarries had altered

their minds, and, passing by this spot, went on to where we stalked the

deer on Saturday, attended by such bad luck. They are queer fellows,

possessed of remarkably odd notions on hunting, quite at variance with

the true science of the chase. They trust so much to luck, to 'kizmet.'

I suppose, being Mahomedans, and hence fatalists, influences them on

these points. I cannot say there is any charm in the character of

these men, such as one might, perhaps, be disposed to attribute to the

hunters of the Cashmere mountains. They are too strongly imbued with

the duplicity and covetousness of their race, and they are deficient

in those characteristics one loves to ascribe to the mountaineer and

hunter--courage, truth, and candour. They do not ever like to exert

themselves over much, and have a great regard for the comforts of a

house, so that it is difficult to get them well away from the inhabited

districts. They are, moreover, constantly begging for something; and,

though one may give them double what they are entitled to, they will

scheme to dupe you into giving them more, quoting fabulous experiences

of the generosity and munificence of saheb so and so. Nor do I consider

them by any means good hunters, their talents being confined to a

knowledge of the country, and a quick sharp eye. They possess none

of that pertinacity and resource which enable hunters to find game

when scarce and wild, and to capture it with certainty when severely

wounded. They are but poor trackers, and quickly give up all efforts at

the pursuit of a wounded animal, if they think it may have gone far.

How often I have longed for one or two of my old Australian native

hunters! _They_ were the fellows to run a tangled trail through bush

or over bare rock, like hounds with the chase in view. Of my three

shikarries, Phuttoo, Mooktoo, and Subhan, the latter is far the best

and more attractive in character. He is young and willing, and is not

yet spoiled, not having hitherto acquired all the wiles and tricks of

such men as the other two, who are old allies, and work together for

their mutual advantage. It is a great drawback to my pleasure in this

excursion, not being able to repose confidence in these associates.

We went over a deal of ground, but arrived at the end of our beat

without seeing anything; then pulled up for the day. Just as I was

finishing breakfast, the hunters came, and informed me there was a

bear in sight. I got up and accompanied them a short way up hill.

Puffing and blowing, distended with tea and dough cakes, I made heavy

way, and, having ascertained the bear to be a long way off in rough

and difficult ground, I declined going after him, but sanctioned the

attempt on the part of Subhan and Mooktoo, Phuttoo and I taking up a

good position to see the fun. After a time we heard three shots in

rapid succession; then saw the bear coming towards us. He sheered

off, and went best pace up hill, evidently unscathed. Soon after, the

hunters appeared, Mooktoo as usual shirking the hard work, and Subhan

climbing the heights manfully, as though he intended to catch Bruin. At

last they rejoined us.

In the evening we retraced our steps, and at length saw an old and a

young bear far ahead of us. Having reached their whereabouts at dusk, I

doubted whether to go after them; but, Subhan catching sight of them,

I buckled to, and climbed the steep. We found our game, the young one

only being visible at first, right under us: then the old one was

detected also, and I fired down on her, aiming at and striking her

between the shoulders, knocking her over: then, aiming at the young

one, the gun did not go off, the cap, I fancy, having fallen off.

The old bear scrambled up close to us, uttering fierce growls; then

turned and made off. I fired two shots, one breaking a hind leg. Subhan

pursued. The young one, a queer looking little brute, sat eyeing us

from a height opposite, and I would not allow Mooktoo to fire at him.

We followed the chase, and found the bear had fallen down hill into the

jungle close by the river. It was too late and too dark to look for her

then, so we took the route to camp, all feeling sure of finding her

dead in the morning.

19th June. Off to retrieve the wounded bear. We got on its tracks,

there being much blood on the trail, and tracked through a bit of

jungle into some wet bushy ground, where the shikarries, no longer

finding blood to guide them, gave up the chase, and, without examining

the neighbouring bushes, turned back towards camp. Aware of the utter

uselessness, from former experience, of endeavouring to incline them to

continue the search, I went silently back.

20th June. We made an early start towards Shugkenuz. Mooktoo espied

two bears in the old place where three were seen on our first coming

this way, and on that evening I wounded two. We resolved to try for

them, and, continuing our route on towards the bridge, I discovered

another high up on our right. We started up, a long and tiresome climb

before us; when, getting near the place where we had seen the bear, we

found it had moved to the opposite side of the ravine. Our side was

very difficult to move on, having a very steep and smooth surface, but

bushes to screen us. The bear was wonderfully 'cute of hearing, turning

at every snap of a dry twig. I made sure it would be off, but advanced

with every caution to a spot where some slight noise was unavoidable,

and could not get nearer without being exposed to view. Here Bruin,

having looked up and reconnoitred repeatedly, moved upwards; then

across the ravine, heading towards us. Mooktoo, excited, declared it

to be coming towards us, so I took up as comfortable a position as I

could, and prepared rifle. Sure enough Bruin's head appeared over a

ridge, coming right for us. He halted, and scrutinized our locality,

then advanced and paused; when--crack!--and over and over it rolled

down the ravine.

It was a female. And the hunters account for its strange approach to

us, by its having from the sound imagined its male friend to be at

hand, which individual I had the honour to represent, so little to the

satisfaction of the expectant fair one.

Leaving Phuttoo and Kamal to take the spoils, we continued our way,

and, crossing the ridge, went in search of the bears first seen. Their

place was vacant: no signs of them. But Subhan, having gone ahead,

signalled us, and we found he had discovered a bear on the other

side the stream which tumbled down this valley. Its movements were

eccentric, and again ascribed to its being under the influence of the

tender passion. However that may be, the lone one came down to the edge

of the stream, there pausing awhile amid the bushes; when an Enfield

ball took effect on its shoulder, and ere it recovered its surprise

another followed. It was then discovered lying apparently dying under

some bushes. Mooktoo went in pursuit, and shortly fired two shots. I

then sent Subhan across to help, knowing Mr. Mooktoo to entertain the

utmost reverence for a wounded bear, always preserving a respectful

distance. Subhan crossed the stream, disappearing in the bushes, which

were seen much agitated, bending to and fro, here and there,--a rush

and the thwack of sticks being audible even above the roar of the

torrent. Then all was still. Next, Subhan appeared at my side; he had

settled the bear, with the result of which he was much pleased. It was

but a small animal, but a very vicious young female.

We proceeded on to Shugkenuz: in the evening visited the same spot, but

saw nothing.

21st June. I had determined yesterday to remain a day here, in order

to make complete arrangements for coolies and supplies, as no village

is met with between this and Sooroo; and we propose stopping to hunt

midway some days, there being good ground for ibex there. I also expect

the coolies back from Sirinuggur, a matter of consequence as lead is

again running short, those tough bears causing such a consumption of

that precious metal.

I started in the morning to hunt a valley across the river, and had

proceeded far up the valley, when I perceived the back of a bear

shewing above some high rank herbage up the hill-side. Up we went, and

came on our prey, and a shot, entering just behind the shoulder, sent

him rolling head over heels down hill: but I had to put a ball through

his head to finish him.

Mooktoo had not accompanied us, having been lame the last two days

from a boil. It is surprising how absurdly ignorant they are of the

simplest principles of curative measures and remedies. His were wet

gunpowder--because it was an European production, I imagine--and a

bandage of woollen stuff. All ready for a move on the morrow.

The Diary of a Hunter from the Punjab to the Karakorum Mountains · 第 6 / 17 章