"O'er the smooth bosom of the faithless tides,
Propelled by gentle gales, the vessel glides."
_Falconer._
The gallant Barque the Runnymede, of 507 tons burthen, commanded by
Captain William Clement Doutty, an experienced seaman, and the property
of Messrs. Hall & Co. and Ingram of Riches-court, Lime-street, London,
being a remarkably staunch river-built vessel of the A 1 or first class,
left Gravesend on the 20th of June, 1844, bound for Calcutta. She had
on board a general cargo and a crew of twenty-eight persons, including
officers. She also carried out, on account of the Honourable East India
Company, thirty-eight soldiers, with two women and one child, belonging
to Her Majesty's 10th Regiment of Foot, and also Captain Stapleton,
Ensigns Venables, Du Vernett, and Purcell, and one hundred and five
soldiers, ten women, and thirteen children, belonging to Her Majesty's
50th Regiment of Foot. The whole of the military were under the command
of Captain Stapleton; the medical officer was Mr. Bell, the surgeon of
the vessel.
Every thing proceeded in the same manner as is usual on voyages in the
same course, till they arrived south of the Tropics. The only casualty
they met with was the death of William Bryant, a private of the 10th,
on the 12th of July. He had suffered from sea-sickness ever since his
embarkation. His body was committed to the deep the same evening, with
the customary ceremonies. The principal amusements of the officers and
crew were fishing, shark-catching, booby and pigeon shooting, and
playing at backgammon. There were also on board the ship, books
provided for the use of those who were disposed to read. The hour of
dinner was four o'clock.
On arriving south of the Tropics, the wind, instead of backing to
the westward, blew almost constantly from the north-east and
east-north-east; and when it occasionally got to the westward of
north, it always fell light, contrary to the usual course; and so it
continued until it got to the westward, and then it freshened. In
consequence of the delay occasioned by this state of things, and
the near approach of the north-east monsoon, the captain, on the
21st of October, resolved to call at Penang, for the purpose of
taking in an additional supply of water and other necessaries. They
accordingly steered their course thither. On the 24th they saw the
Island of Sumatra, bearing east-north-east about eight leagues. On
the 26th, in the forenoon, they saw Pulo Rondo, bearing
east-south-east, and on the 29th, at half-past two o'clock in the
afternoon, the ship anchored in safety off Fort Cornwallis, in the
roads of Penang, or Pulo Penang, the word Pulo signifying an island.
Penang is sometimes called Prince of Wales's Island. It is on the
coast of Queda. Its capital is George Town. The East-India Company
first formed a settlement here in 1786.
At Penang they remained till Sunday, the 3d of November, busily
engaged in taking in sixty-one casks or about thirty tons of water,
and other necessaries, and various articles of merchandize on account
of cargo. They found lying here Her Majesty's ship Dido, commanded by
the Honourable Captain Keppel.
Immediately on the arrival of the Runnymede, Captain Doutty and Mr.
Bell, together with Captain Stapleton and Ensign Du Vernett, went on
shore, it being the duty of the latter to report themselves to the
proper authorities.
It was agreed, that after the parties had accomplished their business,
they should meet at the best hotel in the place and dine together.
This understanding led to the following entertaining incidents. On
landing, the parties stepped into palanquin-carriages. The Captain and
the Doctor went one way, and their military friends, another. After
finishing their business, the Captain and his companion went in quest
of their friends, desiring the Malay boy, who had charge of their
carriage, to take them to the hotel. The lad replied, "I stand," and
off they set. After a number of turns and windings, amongst most
beautiful scenery, they arrived in front of a very well planned house,
and were told by their conductor "this was house." They thought it
remarkable that a hotel should be in such a retired situation.
However, upstairs they ran, and sure enough they found their military
friends there.
They were congratulating them upon their good quarters, when a lady
appeared, to whom they were introduced as the lady of the commandant,
whose house it was, and were speedily convinced of their mistake,
which produced a hearty laugh. They then, by signs, tried to make
their palanquin-boys comprehend that it was a hotel they wanted, and
not a private house. These said they understood "Master," and away
they all four went towards the town. At a short distance from this the
boys stopped at another large building, which appeared more like a
hotel than the former. They questioned the lads as to this house, who
replied, "All right," so they entered. They met an old gentleman, who
requested them to pass into an inner room, where he introduced them to
Captain Keppel, who received them most kindly. Their introducer proved
to be Captain Quin, of Her Majesty's ship Minden, who was on his way
home on sick leave in the Dido, and the mansion proved to be the
Admiralty-house. Captain Keppel, with great kindness, invited the
party to a ball and supper, to be given by him on the following
evening, to the inhabitants of Penang, previously to his sailing for
England.
On leaving the Admiralty-house, the party were directed to a place
little better than a booth, and denominated by the natives a
punch-house, a name given to all low taverns in India, but which was
dignified with the name of "The Albion Hotel." In the only
sitting-room of this place they found the officers of the Dido at
dinner. Of this meal they would have been disappointed, had not those
gentlemen kindly invited them to partake of their fare, which
consisted principally of curries of various kinds. So poorly was the
place furnished that no two articles were alike; chairs, plates,
dishes, glasses, knives and forks, were all odd ones, of different
colours and sizes. The badness of this accommodation arises from the
circumstance that those who call at the island are hospitably
entertained, during their stay, at the houses of those residents to
whom they happen to be introduced. For this reason a good hotel cannot
be supported. After the dinner, which went off with a good deal of fun
and mirth, some of the party "chartered ponies for a cruise" in the
interior of the island. Penang is remarkable for piebald ponies.
The next evening the party from the Runnymede repaired to the
admiralty-house, pursuant to invitation, and were hospitably received
by Captain Keppel and his officers. There they met the whole of the
respectable inhabitants of the island, both civil and military, with
their families. The rooms were handsomely decorated, and dancing was
kept up with great spirit, enlivened by the harmonious strains of
Captain Keppel's private band. This was succeeded, at midnight, by a
champagne supper, which, for excellence, might have borne a comparison
with any civic entertainment in London. Between three and four in the
morning the ladies began to move off, and some of the youngsters, by
way of further amusement, sat down to a second supper. At daylight the
Dido was apeak, under all sails, and by eight o'clock, was leading
down the north channel with skysails set for Old England. Her captain
and officers carried with them the good wishes of all they left behind
at Penang.