CHAPTER VII.

THE DRINKING CUSTOMS OF ANCIENT GREECE AND ROME.

Thus far we have considered, although superficially, the habits of

those primitive races whose origin is lost in the obscurity of myths

and legends; but we have been able to gather, even from the imperfect

records that have been handed down to us, certain trustworthy information

relating to the subject.

We have ascertained that it is impossible to retrace the history of any

of the nations of antiquity to a period when strong drink was unknown

and intoxication was not practised. We know beyond a doubt that various

productions of the soil, the palm tree, the hemp plant, several shrubs,

herbs, and fruits, especially the grape, and also certain cereals, were

employed from the earliest times in the preparation of intoxicating

beverages. We know, too, that it was considered quite legitimate for

all classes, with very few exceptions, to drink these beverages in

moderation, and that amongst the early races of mankind some of them

were deemed worthy of being offered to their gods, and were supposed to

be acceptable to them. Neither can it be doubted that from the beginning

of the world, so far at least as our records of its history extend,

intemperance existed, and that it was a concomitant of most of the vices

and crimes which it impels men to commit even in our day.

But the imperfection of those records which we have consulted has

prevented us from travelling over the whole life-history of a nation as

we shall be able to do hereafter, for as we follow the migrations of the

great Aryan family from East to West, from Asia into Europe, travelling

downwards on the stream of history, we shall obtain a clearer insight

into the social customs of the time, and be better able to judge of their

relations with its political history. The great empires of Greece and

Rome constitute a connecting link between the ancient and modern world,

and we shall find it profitable to study the history of drink in those

countries, not only on account of its intrinsic interest, but because of

the lessons which it conveys in regard to the present and probable future

of our race.

In Greece the origin of wine and wine-bibbing belongs to the mythical

age. The discovery of wine was attributed to Dionysus, better known to

modern readers as Bacchus, the son of Jupiter and Semele, the daughter

of Cadmus of Thebes.[144] He is said to have travelled in Egypt, Syria,

and parts of Asia, and there to have introduced the manufacture of wine

along with the other arts of civilisation, and on his return to Greece

he was at length acknowledged as a deity through the miracles which he

is said to have performed. After his death he was worshipped as the god

of wine, and the festivals in his honour became more and more riotous

and dissolute, both in Greece and Rome, until they degenerated into

saturnalia of the most disgraceful character. In the latter city they

were entirely suppressed by a consular edict B.C. 186 and a more innocent

festival was substituted. This celebration known as the Liberalia was

held annually on the 16th March, and was made the occasion of investing

all the Roman youths who had attained their sixteenth year with the _toga

virilis_ or vestment of manhood.[145]

We shall have occasion hereafter to refer to the ancient god of wine, but

for the present we must leave him for the purpose of considering another

narrative of the heroic age. Homer, who is variously placed in the

world’s history between 1184 and 684 B.C., also carries us back into the

realm of fiction, and in his pages we find mention made on more than one

occasion of wine and its injurious effects upon those who partook of it

to excess. He tells us, for example, that when Ulysses and his companions

came to the land of the fabled Cyclops, they found it rich in natural

productions which required no human aid to cultivate them. “Trusting to

the gods,” the natives neither plant a plant with their hands nor plough,

but all things unsown, untilled, spring up, wheat, and barley, and vines,

which bear wine from large clusters, and the shower from Jove nourishes

them.[146] In this paradise Ulysses and his companions disembarked, and

finding goats, they killed them and prepared a banquet. They are then

described as feasting on flesh and sweet wine during the whole day until

the setting sun, “for the ruby wine was not yet expended from the ships,

but was in them,” says the chronicler, “for each of us had drawn much

wine in kegs when we captured the sacred citadel of the Ciconians.” After

thus indulging, Ulysses and his companions had the misfortune to fall

into the hands of the Cyclops Polyphemus, who confined them in a cave and

devoured six of them. The monster was, however, unacquainted with the

intoxicating effects of the juice of the grape, and Ulysses succeeded in

making him drunk “with an ivy-wreathed cup of black wine,” and by that

means he effected his escape with his remaining companions.

Thus it would appear that the manufacture of wine from the grape and

its transport from place to place in barrels must have been common in

the days of Homer; and that its intoxicating effects were well known is

obvious, not only from the foregoing extracts, but from various other

portions of the “Odyssey.” Thus, Antinous says to Ulysses, “Sweet wine

hurts thee, which harms others also, whoever takes it too abundantly nor

drinks properly. Wine also inspired the illustrious Centaur Eurytion in

the palace of the magnanimous Pirithous when he came to the Lapithæ, but

he, when he had injured his mind with wine, in madness did wicked deeds

in the house of Pirithous.”[147]

The information which we have thus derived from the ancient poets is

confirmed by the results of modern archæologists. Many of our readers

have no doubt inspected the interesting relics of ancient Troy which

have been brought home by Dr. Schliemann, and are now deposited in South

Kensington Museum. They consist, amongst other articles, of drinking

vessels of various shapes and materials, cast and wrought gold, silver

and earthenware, and of every size, form, and colour. Their precise age

has been disputed, but it is quite unnecessary for our purpose to enter

minutely into this question. The race which used them were evidently

highly convivial in their habits; and in the matter of drinking, at

least, they would seem to have been the originators of many of the

customs of civilised society.

Crossing over once more from Troy into Greece, we find that, at a later

period of its history, the dangers which threatened the nation from

drunkenness became so apparent that in some of the states stringent

measures were taken to enforce abstinence.

The Lacedæmonians were at one time total abstainers,[148] and some

writers go so far as to say that they compelled their helots or slaves to

intoxicate themselves, and to dance indecent dances, and that whilst they

were in that condition they brought their youth to look at them, so that

they might be repelled by the sight, and eschew similar practices.[149]

Be that as it may, temperance and simplicity of life did not long hold

sway in Greece, and all its states, including Sparta, succumbed to habits

of luxury.[150] Of this we have ample proof in the works of the Greek

comedy writers. One of them, Panyasis, a relation of Herodotus, who lived

about 480 B.C., sings in praise of wine as follows:—

“Good wine’s the gift which God has given

To man alone beneath the heaven,

Of dance and song the genial sire,

Of friendship gay, and soft desire;

Yet rule it with a tightened rein,

Nor moderate wisdom’s rules disdain;

For when unchecked there’s nought runs faster—

A useful slave, but cruel master.”

Of immoderate drinking the same writer says, “For insolence and ruin

follow it;” and in that view he was supported by many other writers of

his day. Eubulus, for example, who flourished about a century later,

has left some verses which are applicable to other nations and to times

different from that in which he lived and sang. He puts the following

verses upon the lips of Bacchus:—

“Let them three parts of wine all duly season

With nine of water who’d preserve their reason.

The first gives health, the second sweet desires,

The third tranquillity and sleep inspires.

These are the wholesome draughts which wise men please,

Who from the banquet-house return in peace.

From a fourth measure insolence proceeds;

Uproar a fifth; a sixth wild license breeds;

A seventh brings black eyes and livid bruises;

The eighth the constable introduces;

Black gall and hatred lurk the ninth beneath;

The tenth is madness, arms, and fearful death.

For too much wine poured in one little vessel

Trips up all those who seek with it to wrestle.”[151]

Another quotation illustrative of the habits of the times must suffice.

Epicharmus, a Greek by birth, who lived in Sicily even at an earlier

period than either of the preceding, and of whose writings we have many

remains, has left a few lines on the subject of drunkenness which

supplement the above account of its ill effects, and which, alas! apply

to the nineteenth century of our Christian era equally with the period at

which Epicharmus flourished, namely, about 540 B.C.:—

“Then the drinking riot breeds;

Then on riot and confusion

Follow law and prosecution;

Law brings sentence, sentence chains;

Chains bring wounds and ulcerous pains.”[152]

But it is unnecessary that we should follow the history of the drinking

habits of Greece any further, for we find the same excesses to have

prevailed there as we meet with in the relations on the same subject in

Rome, and to that empire, therefore, we must now direct our attention.

* * * * *

The earliest mention made anywhere of wine in Italy is probably that

found in the writings of Varro, the historian, who says that Mezentius,

king of Etruria (contemporary with Æneas of Troy), succoured the Rutuli

against the Latini on condition that he should receive as compensation

all the wine that was in Latium. But although many other writers have

left us information on the subject, it is to Pliny the Elder that we owe

most of the interesting particulars concerning drink and drinking customs

in Rome.[153] From his pages we learn that wine was well known to the

people of that city from its very foundation[154] (about 650 B.C.); for

an anecdote is related that the wife of Egnatius Mecenius was slain by

her husband with a stick because she had drunk wine from a vat (women

being at that time forbidden to drink wine in Rome), and that he was

absolved from the murder by Romulus. The interdiction of wine to women

was in force at a much later period; for Fabius Pictor,[155] in his book

of “Annals,” states that a certain lady, for having opened a purse in

which the keys of the wine-cellar were kept, was starved to death by

her family; and Cato tells us that it was the usage of the men to give

their female relatives a kiss in order to ascertain whether they smelt of

_temetum_, for it was by that name that wine was known; “whence,” says

Pliny, “our word _temulentia_, signifying drunkenness.” Another case is

quoted, which shows that wine was subsequently allowed to women as a

medicine or a tonic. Cn. Domitius, a judge, gave it as his opinion that a

certain woman appeared to him to have drunk more wine than was requisite

for her health, and without her husband’s knowledge, for which reason

he condemned her to lose her dowry. Later on, however, men and women

caroused together freely.

But we must return to the earliest period of Roman history. Wine appears

then to have been very scarce, for King Numa promulgated a decree known

as the Posthumian law, which contained the injunction, “Sprinkle not

the funeral pyre with wine;” and the same edict forbade the employment

of wine as a libation to the gods which was the product of an unpruned

vine. For it appears that the vines were attached to high trees, which

the husbandman was obliged to climb in order to prune them, and as many

accidents, sometimes fatal ones, resulted from this custom, vines were

neglected, and their produce diminished in consequence. But there are

many other proofs of the scarcity of wine in the earlier days of Rome.

Thus L. Papirius, a general, who on one occasion commanded against the

Samnites, when about to engage, vowed an offering to Jupiter of a small

cup of wine if he should gain the victory; and for a considerable time

milk is often mentioned amongst offerings to the gods, but never wine.

Even at that early period, therefore, we know that, however scarce

intoxicating liquor may have been, it was already employed in a variety

of ways. That it was used in religious ceremonies; as a medicine; as an

article of diet, openly by men and secretly by women; and, if we were to

follow closely the course of Roman history, we should find that for those

purposes, and as a luxury, its consumption must have been always on the

increase. Our space will not, however, allow us to do more than refer to

a few illustrative cases, extracted from the pages of Pliny and other

Roman writers, in order to show how drinking increased, and the extent to

which it prevailed at a later period. We have seen that on one occasion

a Roman general offered as a rare gift to the gods a small cup of wine.

That was about the beginning of the fourth century B.C. (333-272). About

a hundred years later, Cato, another Roman general, who did his utmost to

discountenance the growing luxury of his time, whilst on an expedition to

Spain from which he afterwards returned in triumph, would drink no other

wine than such as was served out to his rowers, “very different indeed,”

says the historian, “to the conduct of those who are in the habit of

giving to their guests even inferior wine to that which they drink

themselves, or else contrive to substitute inferior in the course of

their repast.”[156] Still another century later, M. Varro, the historian

(born 116 B.C.), makes the following statement concerning the wines which

were held in high esteem in his day:—“L. Lucullus, when a boy, never saw

an entertainment at his father’s house, however sumptuous it might be,

at which Greek wine was handed round more than once during the repast,

whereas he himself, when he returned from Asia, distributed as a largess

among the people more than a hundred thousand congiaria[157] of the same

wine. C. Sentius, the prætor, used to say that Chian wine never entered

his house unless his physician prescribed it to him for the cardiac

disease; but, on the other hand, Hortensius (50 B.C.) left 10,000 casks

of it to his heir.” About the same period, Pliny tells us[158] that Cæsar

at a banquet given during his third consulship (B.C. 46), gave Falernian,

Chian, Lesbian, and Mamertine wines; “indeed, it is generally agreed that

this was the first occasion on which four different kinds of wine were

served at table. It was after this that all the other sorts came into

such very high repute, somewhere about the year of the city 700.” And

speaking of his own time (A.D. 23-79), he tells us that the luxurious

ways of his countrymen were fully matured. “Wealth, and not merit, had

become the passport to the highest offices, the motives and hopes of

all, therefore, tending to the one great object, the acquisition of

wealth.... We may therefore conclude, by Hercules, that pleasure has now

begun to live, and that life, so called, has ceased to be.”[159] What

would Pliny have said, had he lived in our time?

To the state of Roman society in Pliny’s day we shall return presently,

but although this is not a technical treatise on intoxicating liquors,

it is probable that some of our readers might desire to know something

of the character of the wines to which reference has been made in the

preceding observations, and we will therefore describe as concisely as

circumstances admit the method of their manufacture, and will add one or

two matters of interest bearing upon their use.

The manufacture of wine in Italy and Greece had been brought to great

perfection about the commencement of the Christian era, and from that

time to the fall of the Roman Empire its quality and varieties occupied

the attention of some of the most learned critics and historians. Three

distinct descriptions or qualities of wine were usually pressed from the

same grapes. The first may be compared to “virgin honey,” for it was

merely the juice or “must” which flowed from the fruit through the simple

pressure of the mass of grapes when they were put into the wine-press.

It was called _protrupum_, and was reserved for the manufacture of

a peculiarly fine description of wine. The second quality, _mustum

lixivium_, was the product of the first pressure; and after the grapes

had been completely pressed, the solid mass was taken out and once more

submitted to the same operation. The liquor from the second pressing

was known as _mustum tortivum_, and was used for the manufacture of

inferior wines, or for mixing with the better qualities. The “must” or

sweet juice was transferred to “_dolia_,” long bell-mouthed earthenware

vases, partially sunk in the earth, in an apartment on the ground floor

called the _cella vinaria_, and in these vessels the fermentation took

place, usually lasting nine days. After this, the upper part of the

inside of the _dolia_ having been previously smeared with a composition

of saffron, pitch, mastic, and fir cones, those vessels were closed with

lids, which were taken off from time to time to give air to the contents,

to remove impurities, and to add any substances which were deemed

necessary to give soundness to the wine. From the _dolia_ the finer

kinds of wine were transferred to other vessels called _amphoræ_, made

of earthenware or glass, and closed with a plug of wood or cork, which

was rendered impervious to air by being coated with clay or gypsum. These

_amphoræ_ bore the name of the wine they held, just as do our bottles,

and they were usually deposited in the upper floor of the house, it being

supposed that the smoke or warmth from the floors below, in passing

upwards, improved the quality of the wine. This effect was heightened by

constructing the bath furnaces below the apartments (_apothecæ_) in which

the wine was stored.[160] The commoner kinds were drawn direct from the

_dolia_, the original vessels in which fermentation had taken place; and

for the sale of wine in the streets and markets, or for its transport,

the wine-holders were usually made of the skins of animals.

The culture of the vine was a most important industry in Greece and

Italy, and the plant itself is said to have attained proportions which

are rarely if at all equalled in our day. We are told, for example, that

in the city of Populonium there was a statue formed of the trunk of a

single vine, which for ages remained proof against all decay;[161] and

again that at Metapontum the temple of Juno stood supported by pillars

formed of the same material. Pliny says that there were in his day

ninety-one varieties of vine, of which he describes several, giving many

details concerning their cultivation.[162] He mentions one hundred and

sixteen different sorts of wine, whereof fifty are called “generous;” and

he (as well as other writers of his day) speaks of the wines of Latium

in Italy, chiefly those growing near the sea, and of certain islands in

the Grecian Archipelago (Chios, Lesbos, &c.), as the most highly prized

and commended. Various substances were used to improve and give flavour

to the wines of those days, and amongst them we find named sea-water,

turpentine, resin, gypsum, almonds, parched salt, goats’ milk, cedar

cones, salts of lead, and a variety of others which would seem hardly

suited to the purpose. Many were adulterants used for doctoring inferior

wines, and severe enactments were passed to prevent such practices. We

are not, however, led to believe that artificial wines were manufactured

and adulteration practised to the same extent as in our day. A German

newspaper[163] recently gave an account of a prosecution in Berlin,

in which it was stated that one large store which had been inspected

contained only artificial wines, into the manufacture of which the juice

of the grape never entered, although the names borne by the labels of the

bottles were those of well-known wines.

But to return to Rome. Drinks more or less intoxicating were made from

honey (_hydromeli_), and from a great variety of fruits, shrubs, and

herbs; but our space will not allow us even to enumerate them. The views

which were entertained at that time concerning the use and abuse of

wine seem to be somewhat similar to those which are held in the present

day. Pliny, for example, describes its effects as follows:—“It causes a

feeling of warmth in the interior of the viscera, and when poured upon

the body is cool and refreshing;” and he adds, that there is nothing more

useful than wine for strengthening the body, while at the same time there

is nothing more pernicious as a luxury if we are not on our guard against

excess.[164] Some wines, we are told, had the virtue of prolonging life;

thus Livia Augusta, who lived to her eighty-second year, attributed her

longevity to the wine of Pucinum, as she never drank any other. The fact

is hardly conclusive, for we do not know how long she would have lived

if she had drunk no wine at all. The author knows an old gentleman who

has attained nearly the same age, and he never drinks anything but brown

brandy, yet he has never heard him attribute his longevity to that cause.

Wine was believed to possess distinctly medicinal properties. Pliny

says, “It acts as an antidote to cantharides and stings inflicted by

serpents,” and that “it is good for the kidneys, liver, and inner coat

of the bladder, and is an antidote for various poisons, especially

hemlock;”[165] whilst Mnesitheus, an Athenian physician, although

he admitted that people who drink a great quantity of unmixed wine

at banquets often receive great injury from so doing, recommended

“occasional hard drinking,” which appeared to him to produce “a certain

purging of the body and a certain relaxation of the mind.”[166] We have

heard opinions expressed almost as irrational as the last named, even in

our time.

The price of wine appears to have been marvellously low. It is said

to have varied from sixpence per gallon down to threepence for ten

gallons;[167] but, of course, it is difficult to form a correct estimate

in this respect without comparing its price with that of bread or some

other article of regular consumption, and ascertaining what were the

rates of remuneration in trades and handicrafts. The strongest proof of

the large consumption of wine is, however, to be found in the number and

variety of the drinking vessels which were employed in Greece and Rome.

The most common were the _calix_, a flat vase-shaped cup with one handle,

and the _rhyton_, a horn-shaped vessel. Originally the latter was the

horn of an animal, which appears to have been the first drinking vessel

of most nations, but gradually the _rhyton_ assumed various ornamental

shapes, such as the head of a bull or greyhound, either made altogether

of earthenware, or surmounted with an open receptacle of chased gold or

silver, and provided with a handle. But besides these, the names of the

drinking vessels were legion. Athenæus describes a vast number with great

minuteness.[168] Some were of precious metal, others of crystal, wood,

horn, or earthenware; some of ordinary dimensions, and others again were

enormous as, for example, the elephant:—

“’Tis a mighty cup,

Pregnant with double springs of rosy wine,

And able to contain three ample measures,

The work of Alcon. When I was at Cypseli,

Adæus pledged me in this self-same cup.”[169]

Dionysius of Sinope, we are told, published a catalogue of cups, which,

if we may judge from the space occupied by little more than the bare

mention of some of them in Athenæus, must have been pretty compendious.

But these drinking vessels had a significance beyond that which attached

either to their size, material, or variety. Whilst some were works of

art, testifying only the skill, the love of the beautiful, and the

cultivated taste of their makers and owners, many, through the indecent

scenes which were portrayed upon them, revealed an age of dissoluteness

which had probably never been surpassed nor even equalled. To descend to

an account of the debauchery practised in the ancient empires of Greece

and Rome would be impossible in this or any other work of a popular

character, but our duty would remain unfulfilled did we not attempt

to convey some idea of the state of society in that day. There were

then, as now, banquets, dinner-parties, and wine-parties (_symposia_),

some of which were conducted with moderation, and were accompanied

by rational entertainments, such as conversation amongst the guests,

musical and dramatic performances, but at others drunkenness and every

species of debauchery were openly practised, and those often terminated

in confusion, riot, and bloodshed. It would be the easiest task possible

to degrade two of the greatest nations that have ruled the earth in the

reader’s eyes by laying bare the private character and doings of some

of those whom we have been in the habit of regarding as the heroes of a

bygone age, but that would be less fair, as it certainly would be less

satisfactory, than to take even the most grossly exaggerated descriptions

of society itself as they have been handed down to us by the satirists

of the day. Many of our readers have doubtless laughed or sighed over

the pages of Aristophanes, Petronius, and Athenæus, and to them the

account of an ancient Roman or Greek feast and drinking bout will be

no novelty; but there are others whose studies and researches have led

them in a different direction, and for these a brief sketch of a Roman

entertainment of the grosser, but by no means of the grossest kind, may

prove of interest. Let it be added that, remembering the practical aim of

this work, we have considerably softened down the farcical or exaggerated

tone of the authors whose writings have served as our guide in the

description.[170]

The scene opens at the entrance gate of a Roman mansion, on which there

are inscribed the following significant words: “Any slave who shall go

out of doors without his master’s leave shall receive a hundred lashes.”

Here the guests may be seen descending from their chariots in banqueting

dress, and within, the _ostium_ or entrance is alive with visitors,

playing various games, engaged in conversation, or already receiving

draughts of wine from the hands of obedient slaves.

The next scene is the banqueting hall itself, where the guests recline on

couches around the tables:—

“For now the floor and all men’s hands are clean,

And all the cups, and since the feasters’ brows

Are wreathed with garlands, while the slaves around

Bring fragrant perfume in well-suited dishes:

And in the middle stands the joyful bowl;

And wine’s at hand, which ne’er deserts the guests

Who know its worth, in earthen jars well kept,

Well-flavoured, fragrant with the sweet fresh flowers;

And in the midst the frankincense sends forth

Its holy perfume, and the water’s cold

And sweet and pure.”[171]

The host, a rich and vulgar _parvenu_, is surrounded by sycophants, who

are as ready to parade his wealth and his imaginary virtues as he is to

listen to and believe their flatteries; and the conversation, carried

on in a loud voice during the banquet, mainly runs upon his munificence

towards his slaves and freedmen, and his great possessions. After the

first course, wine is poured over the hands of the guests, for no one

offers them water;[172] and glass jars are carried round bearing labels,

“Opimian, Falernian, a hundred years old!” A human skeleton made of

silver is then produced, and the host incites his guests to partake of

the good things before them by crying out in a loud voice:—

“Vain as vanity are we,

Swift life’s transient flames decay;

What this is we soon shall be,

Then be merry whilst you may.”[173]

The course which follows deserves special attention. It is placed in a

circular tray divided into twelve sections, marked with the signs of

the zodiac, and each contains an appropriate dish. Thus in Aries there

are rams’-head pies; in Sagittarius, a hare; in Pisces, two mullets;

and so on. The entertainment is here diversified by the entrance of an

Egyptian slave, who sings a song in praise of some celebrated wine. The

host’s lady drinks but little (as yet), but she has an ugly tongue and

chatters eternally. The old story; the parvenu husband does sometimes

manage to conform himself to his new sphere of life—his wife never! But

we must not say too much even for him in this instance. He leads the

conversation, and is listened to with rapt attention. After the fashion

of a dinner-giver who instructed his servant to let a tongue fall from a

dish to enable him to make his pun about a _lapsus linguæ_, so the Roman

host had provided the zodiacal dishes as a theme for wise dissertation.

He spoke learnedly of the signs under which men of various trades are

born. Under Libra, for example, it appears that all retail dealers,

butchers, druggists, &c., are brought into the world! Then he turned

the conversation to some contemptible feast that had been given by one

of his wealthy rivals. “Call that a feast!” he said. “Why, there was a

trumpery show of gladiators; such decrepit wretches, one might have blown

them down.” He had seen better men thrown to the beasts by torchlight!

Other courses follow, and betwixt or during each there is some

entertainment or some surprise. Now a slave boy is freed, then an orator

enters and recounts the munificent deeds of the host. Then again the

cook is dragged in and threatened with condign punishment for having

forgotten to remove the intestines from a hog. At first he is handed over

to the tormentors; but the guests intercede, when the cook is directed

to slash open the intestines with a knife, and out falls a mass of

sausages. Thereupon follows immense applause; the cook is crowned with

honours and dismissed. Poor poets and literary men who are present are

vulgarly patronised by the host, and are “drawn out” into conversation,

whilst compliment after compliment is showered on the host. Towards the

close of the banquet, the ceiling over the heads of the guests cracks and

opens, and a great ring descends, hung all round with golden crowns and

alabaster pots filled with perfume, as presents to the guests; and this

is but one amongst similar surprises.

But how is it about our special department all this time? Are the guests

all as sober as when they assembled? Hardly, for each new course has

brought with it a fresh supply of wine, which is carried round from right

to left as with us; and although at first it is taken mixed with water,

it is soon drunk alone, until all the guests have arrived at that third

stage which “tranquillity and sleep inspires.” But soon one of them,

who never once allowed the wine to pass, and “is not in a fit state

for discussion,” naïvely acquaints his host with the interesting fact

that he is “completely fuddled;” an announcement which is received with

laughter and applause. His example is soon followed by others, until all

arrive at the fourth or fifth stages, from which “insolence” and “uproar”

proceed. The guests begin to vie with one another in drinking, brag, and

bluster. But there is method in this dipsomania; for the slaves, too,

are ordered to drink freely, that they may not see their masters at a

disadvantage; and when, at one particular phase of the entertainment,

the wine is brought round, the host threatens to have it poured over the

head of any of his guests who fails to drain his bumper.[174] During

the entertainment other friends arrive, and one party comes tipsy from

a funeral, until at length host and guests, men and women, are all

drunk together. Some of them retire, if reeling out of the hall can

be so called, and proceed to take a bath, with a view of returning to

the charge and renewing the bout; and finally the spectacle becomes

indescribable, and the curtain falls on the last scene of all amidst

“riot and confusion.”

This is by no means an exaggerated picture of the drunkenness and

debauchery which prevailed in Rome under the Empire. Amusements, if the

practice of the lowest vices can be so called, were introduced into the

entertainments of the rich which are quite unfit to be mentioned, and a

number of unnatural devices were resorted to for the purpose of enabling

the guests to protract their debauches. Accounts of these are to be found

not only in the pages of the satirists, but in the sober philosophical

writings of Pliny and other historians. Pliny says,[175] that on no

object was so much ingenuity expended as upon the manufacture of wine,

and that so common was its use, it was given even to beasts of burden. He

speaks of it as a liquid which deprives man of his reason and “drives him

to frenzy and the commission of a thousand crimes.” One of his statements

seems almost incredible, but it is made by other writers as well, and

that is, that men actually drank hemlock (to which, as already stated,

wine was considered an antidote), before commencing a carouse, “that they

may have the fear of death before them, to make them take their wine.”

“The more prudent,” he says, “have themselves parboiled in hot baths,

from whence they are carried away half dead,” and emetics were commonly

resorted to after a large quantity of wine had been swallowed, so that

the drinking might be renewed. Premiums upon the exercise of the drinking

capacity were offered to such as liked to make exhibitions of themselves

at banquets, and the result of these and similar practices is said to

have been the rupture of all ties of decency and modest bearing on the

part of the guests of both sexes.

“Then it is,” says Pliny, “that the secrets of the mind are revealed:

one man is heard to disclose the provisions of his will; another lets

fall some expression of fatal import, and so fails to keep to himself

words which will be sure to come home to him with a cut throat: and how

many a man has met his death in this fashion! Indeed, it has become a

common proverb that ‘in wine there is truth.’” He goes on to describe the

appearance of the drunkard, which agrees with the picture of him that

was drawn by the satirists, and which may be viewed at the present day:

the blotched and purple skin, the crimson nose, the bleared and watery

eyes! _Delirium tremens_, or, as the historian calls it, “sleep agitated

by furies,” was also common, and was accompanied by loss of memory; “and

this,” he adds, “this is what they call seizing the moments of life!

Whereas, in reality, whilst other men lose the day that has gone before,

the drinker has already lost the day that is to come!” He censures the

fashionable physicians of his day who prescribed alcoholic drinks to

their patients for the purpose of pleasing them, and so securing their

custom; and he does not hesitate to expose the habits of those who were

great topers as well as eminent citizens. Alcibiades comes in for severe

reproof; so, too, an eminent Roman, Novellius Torquatus, of Mediolanum,

a man who held all the honours of the state from the prefecture to the

proconsulate, of whom he says that he could drink off three congii at a

single draught,[176] from which he obtained the name of Tricongius. This

he is said to have done before the eyes of Tiberius, and to the extreme

surprise of the Emperor, who was himself a renowned toper. Another hero,

we are told, kept up a drinking bout at the residence of the same Emperor

for two days and two nights; and these little dissipations do not seem to

have interfered in the least with the exercise of the civil or military

duties of those who indulged in them.

But drunkenness and debauchery were not confined to the higher classes

in the days of Roman decadence. In describing the baths of Caracalla,

Gibbon says, on good authority, that there issued from those stately

palaces crowds of dirty and ragged plebeians, without shoes and without a

mantle, who loitered away whole days in the street or Forum to hear news

and to hold disputes; who dissipated in extravagant gaming the miserable

pittance of their wives and children, and spent the hours of the night

in obscene taverns and brothels in the indulgence of gross and vulgar

sensuality.[177]

Such, then, was the condition of society in the latter days of Rome,

with her proud and debauched patricians and her ragged and dependent

plebeians, shortly before the conquering barbarians of the North swept

down like an avalanche and completed her overthrow; and thus do we find

the curse of drunkenness associated with her downfall. May the story of

her vices and the lesson of her fate not have been learned in vain by

succeeding nations, and above all by the people of our own land; for

they teach us that the upper ranks of society cannot yield themselves

to over-indulgence without the commission of a twofold wrong—without

injuring themselves by their vicious practices, as well as their poorer

fellow-citizens by their evil example. Neither does the inconvenience

cease with the discontinuance of the evil habit; the excesses of the poor

react upon the rich, and it is as idle to attempt to reform the lower

orders by criminal legislation and police restrictions alone, as it is

unwise to content ourselves with denouncing their vices, and leaving

them to work out their own reformation. In order to secure continued

prosperity to a nation, all classes, high and low, rich and poor, must

be alike free, contented, and virtuous. We cannot expect to progress

satisfactorily as a nation amongst our neighbours whilst we have even a

residuum of drunkards in our midst; for as long as there are amongst us

such as those who issued from the baths of Caracalla (but who in our day

neither enter nor issue from any baths at all), as easy would it be for a

rich _bon vivant_ whose head is but little affected by the irregularities

of his appetite but whose nether members the gout has made her own,

to expect to compete successfully in a race with a band of young, and

healthy, and vigorous athletes. This is the first grave lesson to be

learned from a consideration of the history of drink.

The history of drink · 第 7 / 16 章