Sierra Leone--Sources of its Population--Appearance of the Town and
surrounding Country--Religious Ceremonies of the Mandingoes--Treatment of
liberated Slaves--Police of Sierra Leone--Agencies for Emigration to the
West Indies--Colored Refugees from the United States--Unhealthiness of
Sierra Leone--Dr. Fergusson--Splendid Church--Melancholy Fate of a Queen's
Chaplain--Currency--Probable Ruin of the Colony.
_October_ 15.--We arrived off the point of Sierra Leone, last night, and
were piloted up to the town, this morning.
This is one of the most important and interesting places on the coast of
Africa. It was founded in 1787, chiefly through the benevolent agency of
Mr. Granville Sharp, as a place of refuge for a considerable number of
colored persons, who had left their masters, and were destitute and
unsheltered in the streets of London. Five years later, the population of
the colony was recruited by above a thousand slaves, who had fled from the
United States to Nova Scotia, during the American revolution. Again, in
1800, there was an addition of more than five hundred maroons, or outlawed
negroes, from Jamaica. And finally, since 1807, Sierra Leone has been the
receptacle for the great numbers of native Africans liberated from
slave-ships, on their capture by British cruisers. Pensioners, with their
families, from the black regiments in the West Indies, have likewise been
settled here. The population is now estimated at about forty-five
thousand; a much smaller amount, probably, than the aggregate of all the
emigrants who have been brought hither. The colony has failed to prosper,
but not through any lack of effort on the part of England. It is the
point, of all others on the African coast, where British energy, capital,
and life, have been most profusely expended.
The aspect of the Cape, as you approach it from the sea, is very
favorable. You discern cultivated hills, the white mansions of the
wealthy, and thatched cottages, neat and apparently comfortable, abodes of
the poorer class. Over a space of several miles, the country appears to be
in a high state of improvement. One large village is laid out with the
regularity of Philadelphia, consisting of seven parallel streets, kept
free from grass, with thatched huts on either side, around which are small
plots of ground, full of bananas and plantain trees. The town itself is a
scene of far greater activity than any other settlement on the West Coast.
Great numbers of negroes, of various tribes and marks, are to be seen
there. So mixed, indeed, is the colored population, that there is little
sympathy or sense of fellowship among them. The Mandingoes seem to be the
most numerous, and are the most remarkable in personal appearance. Almost
without exception, they are very tall figures, and wear white robes, and
high caps without visors.
These Mandingoes hold the faith of Mahomet, and at the time of our
arrival, were celebrating the feast of the Ramazan. Several hundreds of
them paraded through the streets in a confused mass, occasionally stopping
before some gentleman's house, and enacting sundry mummeries, in
consideration of which they expected to receive a present. In front of a
house where I happened to be, the whole body were ranged in order; and two
of them, one armed with a gun, and the other with a bow and arrow, ran
from end to end of the line, crouching down and pretending to be on the
watch against an enemy. At intervals, their companions, or a portion of
them, raised a cry, like those which one hears in the mosques of Asia. The
above seemed to compose nearly all the ceremony; and our liberality was in
proportion to the entertainment, consisting merely of a handful of
coppers, scattered broadcast among the multitude. When this magnificent
guerdon was thus proffered to their acceptance, they forthwith forgot
their mummery, and joined in a general scramble. The king, or chief, now
stept forward, and protested energetically against this mode of
distribution; it being customary to consign all the presents to him, to be
disposed of according to his better judgment. However, the mob picked up
the coppers, and showed themselves indifferently well contented.
When cargoes of slaves are brought to Sierra Leone, they are placed in a
receptacle called the Queen's Yard, where they remain until the
constituted authorities have passed judgment on the ship. This seldom
requires more than a week. The liberated slaves are then apprenticed for
five, seven, or nine years; the Government requiring one pound ten
shillings sterling from the person who takes them. Unless applicants come
forward, these victims of British philanthropy are turned adrift, to be
supported as they may, or, unless Providence take all the better care of
them, to starve. For the sick, however, there is admittance to the
Government Hospital; and the countrymen of the new-comers, belonging to
the same tribe, lend them such aid as is in their power. Food, consisting
principally of rice, cassadas, and plantains, or bananas, is extremely
cheap; insomuch that a penny a day will supply a man with enough to eat.
The market is plentifully supplied with meats, fowls, and vegetables, and
likewise with other articles, which may be tidbits to an African stomach,
but are not to be met with in our bills of fare. For instance, among other
such delicacies, I saw several rats, each transfixed with a wooden skewer,
and some large bats, looking as dry as if they had given up the ghost a
month ago. Supporting themselves on food of this kind, it is not to be
wondered at, that the working-classes find it possible to live at a very
low rate of labor. The liberated slaves receive from four to six pence,
and the Kroomen nine pence per diem; these wages constituting their sole
support.
As may be supposed, so heterogeneous and wild a population as that of
Sierra Leone requires the supervision of a strict and energetic police.
Accordingly, the peace is preserved, and crimes prevented, by a whole army
of constables, who, in a cheap uniform of blue cotton, with a white badge
on the arm, and a short club as their baton of office, patrol the streets,
day and night. Their number cannot be less than two or three hundred.
There is a desire, in some quarters, to destroy the colony of Sierra
Leone; and one of the means for accomplishing this end is, of procuring
the emigration of the colored colonists to the West Indies. For this
purpose there are three different agencies. One has over its
door:--"British Guiana Emigration Office;" another is for Trinidad; and a
third for Jamaica.
Great promises are made to persons proposing to emigrate; such as a free
passage to the West Indies, wages of from seventy-five cents to a dollar
per day, and permission to return when they choose. Very few, however, of
those who have been long resident here, can be induced to avail themselves
of these offers, small as are the earnings of labor at Sierra Leone. They
believe that the stipulations are not observed; that emigrants, on their
arrival in the West Indies, will be called upon to pay their passages, and
that it will not be at their option to return. In short, they suspect
emigration to be only a more plausible name for the slave-trade. The
Kroomen are the class most sought for as emigrants, although negroes of
any tribe are greedily received. Even the Africans just re-captured are
sent off, as the authorities are pleased to term it, "voluntarily." The
last emigration, consisting of somewhat less than two hundred and fifty
persons, included seventy-six slaves, almost that instant landed from a
prize. A respectable merchant assured me, that these men were not
permitted to communicate with their countrymen, but were hurried off to
the vessel, without knowing whither they were bound. The acting governor,
Dr. Fergusson, denied the truth of this, although he admitted that the
seventy-six liberated slaves did emigrate to the West Indies, very soon
after landing from the prize.
It is to be remarked, that the white inhabitants of Sierra Leone, as well
as the colored people, entertain very unfavorable notions of this scheme
of procuring laborers for the West Indies. The best defence of it,
perhaps, is, that neither blacks nor whites can flourish in this
settlement, and that a transportation from its poor soil and sickly
climate, to any other region, may probably be for the better. But,
undeniably, the British government is less scrupulous as to the methods of
carrying out its philanthropic projects, than most other nations in their
schemes of self-aggrandizement.
In Freetown, which is the residence of all the Europeans, are to be found
what remains of the emigrants from Nova Scotia, and their descendants. The
whole number transported hither at several periods, was about fifteen
hundred. Not more than seventy or eighty of these people, or their
progeny, now survive upon the spot. Our pilot is one of the number. He
affirms, that his countrymen were promised fifty acres of land, each, in
Sierra Leone, on condition of relinquishing the land already in their
possession in Nova Scotia. With this understanding they emigrated to
Africa; but, in more than half a century which has since elapsed, the
government has never found it convenient to fulfil its obligations. Only
two or three acres have been assigned to each individual. Meantime, the
body of emigrants has dwindled away, until the standard six feet of earth
by two, the natural inheritance of every human being, has sufficed for
almost all of them, as well as fifty, or five thousand acres could have
done. These emigrants were the colonial slaves, who were taken or ran away
from the United States, during the Revolutionary war. Considered
physically and statistically, their movement was anything but an
advantageous one. It would be matter of curious speculation to inquire
into the relative proportions now alive, of slaves who remained upon our
southern soil, and of these freed men, together with the amount of their
posterity. Not, of course, that it has been in any degree a fair
experiment as to the result of emancipating and colonizing slaves. The
trial of that experiment has been left to America; and it has been
commenced in a manner that might induce England to mistrust her own
beneficence, when she contrasts Liberia with Sierra Leone.
This settlement has been known as "The White Man's Grave;" and it is
certainly a beautiful spot for a grave--as lovely as one of those
ornamental cemeteries, now so fashionable, and on which so much of our
taste is lavished; as if only the dead had leisure for the enjoyment of
shrubbery and sculpture. Sierra Leone, however, is by no means the fatal
spot that it once was. Formerly, a governor was expected to die every
year, although a few held the reins of power, and enjoyed the pomp and
dignity of office, twice or even thrice that period. Brave and excellent
men have accepted the station, on this fearful tenure. Among them was
Colonel Denham, the adventurous traveller in Africa. Very great mortality
likewise prevailed among the merchants, military and civil officers, and
soldiers. This was partly owing to the recklessness of their mode of life.
The rich were in the habit of giving champagne-breakfasts at noon, and
heavy and luxurious suppers at night. The continual neighborhood and near
prospect of death made them gaily desperate; so that they grew familiar
with him, and regarded him almost as a boon companion. And, besides, in a
sickly climate, each individual is confident of his own personal immunity
against the disease which, he is ready to allow, may be fatal to those
around him. I have noticed this absurd hallucination in others, and been
conscious of it in myself. In battle it is the same--the bullet is
expected to strike any and every breast, except one's own--and here,
perhaps, is the great secret of courage.
Latterly, the Europeans at Sierra Leone practise a more temperate life.
Another circumstance that has conduced to render the settlement less
insalubrious, is the clearing of lands in the vicinity, and conversion of
the rank jungle into cultivated fields. The good effect of this change
will be readily appreciated by those who have noticed the improved health
of our Western settlers, as the forest falls before the axe; or who have
seen the difference between the inhabitants of old and new lands, in any
country.
It is said, by the old residents here, that they do not find it very
sickly, except once in seven years, when an epidemic rages, and carries
off many settlers. This has happened regularly since 1823, until the
present year, when, in the proper order of things, the angel of death
should have re-appeared. Several persons provided for their safety by
quitting the place; and others made their arrangement to retreat, on the
first symptoms of danger. But the year, thus far, seems to have been
distinguished by no peculiar mortality.
Life, in a climate like this, must generally be much more brief than in
temperate regions, even if it do not yield at once to the violence of
disease. Yet there are circumstances of Europeans attaining a good and
green old age at Sierra Leone. Mr. Hornell, a Scotch merchant of great
wealth and probity--which latter virtue is rare enough, in this quarter,
to deserve special mention--has resided here fifteen years, and
twenty-seven years in the West Indies. He lives regularly, but generously
imbibing ale, and brandy-and-water, in moderate quantities, every day of
his life.
The governor, Colonel George Macdonald, is now absent in England. In the
interim, the duties of the office are performed by Dr. Fergusson, a
mulatto in color, but born in Scotland, and married to a white lady, who
now resides in that country. Dr. Fergusson was regularly educated at
Edinburgh, and is a medical officer of the British army; a man of noble
and commanding figure, handsome and intellectual countenance, and finished
manners. He is affable, as well as dignified, in his deportment, and
fluent and interesting in conversation. To him, and five or six other men
of color, whom I have met on the coast, I should refer, as proofs that
individuals of the African race may, with due advantages, be cultivated
and refined so as to compare with the best specimens of white gentlemen.
There is a large church here, said to have cost seventy thousand pounds
sterling; notwithstanding which vast expenditure, divine service has
ceased to be performed. The last clergyman, a young man universally
beloved and respected, lost his life, two or three years ago. He had gone
with a party of friends, five in all, on board a homeward-bound vessel,
which lay at a short distance from the shore. On their return the boat
capsized and sunk. The five Kroomen saved themselves, by swimming, until
picked up by a canoe; the five whites were lost; and the young clergyman
among them. The latter swam well, and was almost within reach of a canoe,
when he threw up his hands, exclaiming, "God have mercy on me!"--and
disappeared. A shark had undoubtedly seized him, at the moment when he
believed himself safe. This gentleman held the office of Queen's Chaplain;
and since his melancholy fate, no new appointment of that nature has been
made. If credit be due to the statements reciprocally made by the
colonists, in reference to one another, there is great need of teachers to
inculcate the principles of religion, morality, and brotherly love;
although the spiritual instruction heretofore bestowed (which has cost
large sums to the pious in England) has been almost entirely thrown away.
There are some missionaries here, who have directed their labors
principally to the business of education.
The tide runs so strongly, into and out of the river, that such accidents
as that which befell the five Europeans, above-mentioned, are of no
unfrequent occurrence. When boats or canoes are upset, it is impossible
for the passengers to swim against the current. We had an instance of the
danger, while at anchor there. The captain was seated in his cabin, with
the stern windows open, when he heard a native in a canoe, under the
stern, say "Man drown!" Being asked what he meant, he reiterated the
words, pointing towards the sea. Just then, a cry was indistinctly heard.
Two of our boats were instantly despatched, and picked up three Kroomen,
whose canoe had sunk, leaving them to the mercy of the current, which was
rapidly drifting them towards the ocean. The Humane Society of Sierra
Leone bestows a reward for every person rescued from drowning. In this
instance, of course, no claim was made upon their funds.
The currency here differs from that of all the other settlements on the
coast, except those belonging to Great Britain. The Spanish and South
American doubloons are valued at only sixty-four shillings sterling each,
or fifteen dollars and thirty-six cents; while they are worth elsewhere,
sixteen dollars. Spanish and South American dollars pass at about one per
cent. discount. The English sovereign is reckoned at four dollars eighty
cents; and the French five-franc piece at ninety-two cents. The gold and
silver coin of the United States is not current at Sierra Leone. Bills on
London, at thirty days sight, are worth from par to five per cent.
premium, and may actually be sold in small sums (say, from £100 to £2000)
at fair rates.
Pilotage is five shillings sterling per foot; and the port-charges are so
exorbitant as to prevent the entrance of many vessels, which would
otherwise stop to try the market. Of late years, the trade of Sierra Leone
has suffered great diminution. Money having been lost on all the timber
exported, that business is at present nearly abandoned. Another cause of
decay is the withdrawal of the British squadron, which has now its
principal rendezvous at Ascension. More than all, as contributing to the
decline of the colony, the home-government has discontinued the greater
part of the assistance formerly rendered. The governor, colonial
secretary, and chief justice, are believed to be all the civil officers
who now draw their salaries from England. The military force consists of a
captain, five or six subalterns, and probably two or three hundred
soldiers. In consequence of the failure of support from the
mother-country, the colony has imposed higher duties upon certain
articles, in order to try the experiment of raising a revenue from their
own resources. The most sagacious and best informed residents predict that
the result aimed at will not follow, and that three or four years will
suffice to render the colony of Sierra Leone bankrupt.