CHAPTER III.

Visit of Governor Roberts, &c.--Arrival at Cape Palmas--American

Missionaries--Prosperity of the Catholic Mission--King Freeman, and his

royal robe--Customs of the Kroo-people--Condition of native women.

_August_ 2.--We were visited by Governor Roberts, Doctor Day, and General

Lewis, the latter being colonial secretary, and military chief of the

settlement. They looked well, and welcomed me back to Liberia with the

cordiality of old friendship. The Governor was received by the commodore,

captain, and officers, and saluted with eleven guns. He and his suite

dined in the cabin, and some of the officers of the Porpoise in the

ward-room. In the evening, we brought out all our forces for the amusement

of our distinguished guests. First, the negro band sang "Old Dan Tucker,"

"Jim along Josey," and other ditties of the same class, accompanied by

violin and tambourine. Then Othello played monkey, and gave a series of

recitations. The French cook sang with great spirit and skill. The

entertainments of the evening, as the theatrical bills expressed it,

concluded with Ma Normandie and other beautiful songs and airs well

executed by the French cook, accompanied by Symmes on the violin, and a

landsman on the flute.

5.--Sailed for Cape Palmas, in company with the Porpoise.

9.--Anchored at Cape Palmas. We were boarded by Kroo-men, in eight or ten

canoes. While the thermometer stood at 75 or 80 degrees, these naked

boatmen were shivering, and seemed absolutely to suffer with cold; and

such is the effect of the climate upon our own physical systems, that we

find woollen garments comfortable at the same temperature.

Visited and lunched with Governor Rasswurm. Called on Mr. James, a colored

missionary, now occupying the house of Mr. Wilson, who has lately removed

to Gaboon river. Mr. James presented us with some ebony, and a few Grebo

books. He informed us that the fever had visited him more or less

severely, as often as once in four weeks during seven years. This may

truly be called a feverish life! He is about to remove to Gaboon.

The Catholic Mission seems to have driven the Presbyterian from the

ground. We called on Mr. Kelly, a Catholic priest from Baltimore, and the

only white man of the Mission at present in Africa. Preparations, however,

have already been made for twenty more, principally French, whose arrival

is expected within a year, and who will establish themselves at different

points along the coast. Mr. Kelly is now finishing a very commodious

house, on a scale of some magnitude, with piazzas around the whole. There

is evidently no lack of money. The funds for the support of the Catholic

mission are derived principally through Lyons, in France; and the

enterprise is said to be under the patronage of the king. The abundant

pecuniary means which the priests have at command, and the imposing and

attractive ceremonies of their mode of worship--so well fitted to produce

an effect on uncultivated natures, where appeals either to the intellect

or the heart would be thrown away--are among the chief causes of their

success. It is said, too, and perhaps with truth, that as many converts

are made, among the natives, by presents, as by persuasion. But no small

degree of the prosperity of the mission must be attributed to the superior

shrewdness and ability of the persons engaged in it--to their skilful

adaptation of their precepts and modes of instruction to the people with

whom they have to deal, and to their employment of the maxims of worldly

policy in aid of their religious views. These qualities and rules of

conduct have characterized the Catholic missionaries in all ages, in all

parts of the world, and in their dealings with every variety of the human

race; and their success has everywhere been commensurate with the

superiority, in a merely temporal point of view, of the system on which

they acted.

Before returning on board, we called on King Freeman, who received us,

seated on a chair which was placed in front of his house. His majesty's

royal robe was no other than an old uniform frock, which I had given him

three years ago. We accepted the chairs which he offered us, and held a

palaver, while some twenty of his subjects stood respectfully around. He

remembered my former visit to the colony, and appeared very glad to see me

again. His town was nearly deserted, the people having gone out to gather

rice. About the royal residence, and in the vicinity, I saw thirty or

forty cattle, most of them young, and all remarkably small. It is said,

and I believe it to be a fact, that cattle, and even fowls, when brought

from the interior, take the coast-fever, and often perish with it. Certain

it is that they do not flourish.

11.--King Freeman came on board, dressed in his uniform frock, with two

epaulettes, a redcap, and checked trowsers. He received some powder and

bread from the Commodore, and some trifles from the ward-room.

12.--Joe Davis brought his son on board to "learn sense." In pursuit of

this laudable object, the young man is to make a cruise with us. The

father particularly requested that his son might be flogged, saying,

"Spose you lick him, you gib him sense!" On such a system, a man-of-war is

certainly no bad school of improvement.

13.--A delightful day, clear sky, and cool breeze. We sailed from Cape

Palmas yesterday, steering up the coast.

I have been conversing with young Ben Johnson, one of our Kroomen, on the

conjugal and other customs of his countrymen. These constitute quite a

curious object of research. The Kroomen are indispensable in carrying on

the commerce and maritime business of the African coast. When a Kroo-boat

comes alongside, you may buy the canoe, hire the men at a moment's

warning, and retain them in your service for months. They expend no time

nor trouble in providing their equipment, since it consists merely of a

straw hat and a piece of white or colored cotton girded about their loins.

In their canoes, they deposit these girdles in the crowns of their hats;

nor is it unusual, when a shower threatens them on shore, to see them

place this sole garment in the same convenient receptacle, and then make

for shelter. When rowing a boat, or paddling a canoe, it is their custom

to sing; and, as the music goes on, they seem to become invigorated,

applying their strength cheerfully, and with limbs as unwearied as their

voices. One of their number leads in recitative, and the whole company

respond in the chorus. The subject of the song is a recital of the

exploits of the men, their employments, their intended movements, the news

of the coast, and the character of their employers. It is usual, in these

extemporary strains, for the Kroomen attached to a man-of-war to taunt,

with good-humored satire, their friends who are more laboriously employed

in merchant vessels, and not so well fed and paid.

Their object in leaving home, and entering into the service of navigators,

is generally to obtain the means of purchasing wives, the number of whom

constitutes a man's importance. The sons of "gentlemen" (for there is such

a distinction of rank among them) never labor at home, but do not hesitate

to go away, for a year or two, and earn something to take to their

families. On the return of these wanderers--not like the prodigal son, but

bringing wealth to their kindred--great rejoicings are instituted. A

bullock is killed by the head of the family, guns are fired, and two or

three days are spent in the performance of various plays and dances. The

"boy" gives all his earnings to his father, and places himself again under

the parental authority. The Krooman of maturer age, on his return from an

expedition of this kind, buys a wife, or perhaps more than one, and

distributes the rest of his accumulated gains among his relatives. In a

week, he has nothing left but his wives and his house.

Age is more respected by the Africans than by any other people. Even if

the son be forty years old, he seldom seeks to emancipate himself from the

paternal government. If a young man falls in love, he, in the first place,

consults his father. The latter makes propositions to the damsel's father,

who, if his daughter agree to the match, announces the terms of purchase.

The price varies in different places, and is also influenced by other

circumstances, such as the respectability and power of the family, and the

beauty and behavior of the girl. The arrangements here described are often

made when the girl is only five or six years of age, in which case she

remains with her friends until womanhood, and then goes to the house of

her bridegroom.

Meantime, her family receive the stipulated price, and are responsible

for her good behavior. Should she prove faithless, and run away, her

purchase-money must be refunded by her friends, who, in their turn, have a

claim upon the family of him who seduces or harbors her. If prompt

satisfaction be not made (which, however, is generally the case), there

will be a "big palaver," and a much heavier expense for damages and costs.

If, after the commencement of married life, the husband is displeased with

his wife's conduct, he complains to her father, who either takes her back,

and repays the dowry, or more frequently advises that she be flogged. In

the latter alternative, she is tied, starved, and severely beaten; a mode

of conjugal discipline which generally produces the desired effect.

Should the wife be suspected of infidelity, the husband may charge her

with it, and demand that she drink the poisonous decoction of sassy-wood,

which is used as the test of guilt or innocence, in all cases that are

considered too uncertain for human judgment. If her stomach free itself

from the fatal draught by vomiting, she is declared innocent, and is taken

back by her family without repayment of the dower. On the other hand, if

the poison begin to take effect, she is pronounced guilty; an emetic is

administered in the shape of common soap; and her husband may, at his

option, either send her home, or cut off her nose and ears.

There is one sad discrepancy in the moral system of these people, as

regards the virtue of the women. No disgrace is imputed to the wife who

admits the immoral advances of a white man, provided it be done with the

knowledge and consent of her husband. The latter, in whose eyes the white

man is one of a distinct and superior order of beings, usually considers

himself honored by an affair of this nature, and makes it likewise a

matter of profit. All proposals, in view of such a connection, must pass

through the husband; nor, it is affirmed, is there any hazard of wounding

his delicacy, or awakening his resentment, whatever be his rank and

respectability. The violated wife returns to the domestic roof with

undiminished honor, and confines herself as rigidly within the limits of

her nuptial vow, as if this singular suspension of it had never taken

place.

In spite of the degradation indicated by the above customs, the

Kroo-women are rather superior to other native females, and seem to occupy

a higher social position. The wife first married holds the purse, directs

the household affairs, and rules the other women, who labor diligently for

the benefit of their common husband and master. Their toil constitutes his

wealth. It is usual for a man to live two, three, or four days, with each

of his wives in turn. As old age advances, he loses the control of his

female household, most of the members of which run away, unless he is wise

enough to dispose of them (as usage permits) to his more youthful

relatives. As a Krooman of sixty or seventy often has wives in their

teens, it is not to be wondered at that they should occasionally show a

disposition to rove.

Journal of an African Cruiser Comprising Sketches of the Canaries, the Cape De Verds, Liberia, Madeira, Sierra Leone, and Other Places of Interest on the West Coast of Africa · 第 3 / 22 章