ROYAL CRANES. — SCRUPLES OF FEÏZULLA CAPITAN. — COMPOSITION OF
THE SHORES. — DESCRIPTION OF THE DHELLÈB—PALM AND ITS FRUIT. —
FORM OF EGYPTIAN PILLARS DERIVED FROM THIS TREE. — DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN EGYPTIAN AND GREEK ARCHITECTURE. — DESCRIPTION OF THE
SUNT-TREE. — DEATH OF AN ARABIAN SOLDIER. — VISIT OF A MEK OR
CHIEF. — DANGEROUS RENCONTRE WITH A LION ON SHORE. — PURSUIT OF
THIS BEAST BY THE AUTHOR AND SULIMAN KASHEF WITH HIS MEN. — FEAR OF
THE NATIVES AT THE TURKS. — PLUNDER OF THEIR TOKULS BY THE CREW. —
BREAD-CORN OF THE DINKAS. — ANTELOPE HUNT. — DIFFERENT SPECIES OF
THESE ANIMALS. — IMMENSE HERDS ON THE BANKS OF THE WHITE NILE. —
LIONS AGAIN. — BAD CONDITION OF THE VESSELS.
12th March.—We set out at half-past nine o’clock, and sail to
S.E. by E. Shrubs on the higher shore to the right. A quarter before
ten, from S.E. by E.; further to the left round a corner, to which
a bend corresponds on the opposite shore: this is often the case
on the Nile. To E.N.E., and immediately again with a short tract
to N.E. The river flows with all its force against the left shore,
and therefore the latter is higher, more perpendicular, and disrupt,
than the right, which soon, however, becomes similar. We go a short
tract libàhn, and see a few miserable small straw tokuls with _thin_
doors, on the left, in the little green underwood, which seems to
be nourished by the inundation, and is mostly young döbker.
The shores display again iron oxyde. A quarter before eleven: from
E. by N., to the right, E.S.E., where we sail. The shores on the right
and left are higher, according to the current, and the falling of
the river is accurately marked out on the shore by little gradations,
which are exceedingly regular, and one to two inches high. We crawl
on only slowly with the faint south wind, and make now one mile; for
the current being stagnant below towards the Nile, told me directly
that the floating companion of the mountain dissipates quickly its
water, differently from the slow, crawling Nile, which is obliged
to work through the plain of a lake-basin.
Eleven o’clock. The wind freshens, and we go S.E. and E.S.E. On the
left a solitary dhellèb-palm rises on the shore, with its beautiful
and really symmetrical head; its slender base without rings, and
its elegant foliage. From hence in the bend, further to the right,
in S., where five dhellèb-palms break the uniformity of the high
shore on the left. A low ridge of a hill lies near them, on which a
village must have once stood. If I could but transplant the tallest
dhellèb to Louisa’s island, near Berlin, to make it the common
property of all the northern nations! It is hot, for the high shores
keep the refreshing breeze from the deep water, and only the sail
enjoys a cheerful gust of wind, with the assistance of which we go,
at a quarter before twelve, from S.W., where a regular forest before
us presents itself to the eye, to the left, in S.W. by S. We make two
miles; a quarter of a mile, perhaps, being derived from the current. A
quarter after twelve, from S.W., to the left, E. by N. We hardly move
from the place till it blows from N.E., and then we go better, having
four miles’ course. An old sailor runs on shore close by the vessel,
to find crocodiles’ eggs; tumbles into holes, falls in the grass,
and is using every exertion to find a convenient sand-path instead
of the clay. The crew call him to come off, but he wants to shew
that he is a nimble fellow—thus every one has his hobby-horse.
The river winds continually in a bend to the left: a wretched stunted
forest on the right, and miserable tokuls, without people, here and
there on this shore. One o’clock; from E. by N., where the river
winds again to the right, S.E. by S. We halt at a quarter before
two, at the right shore, yet not to let the men rest; that would
be against the Turkish custom, for they think there are no human
beings except themselves. At three o’clock we go with libàhn to
S.E., and immediately to the left E. Half-past three, in a bend to
the right, S.S.E.; and four o’clock, on the left, in the bend,
to E.S.E. Five o’clock, from E.N.E., on the right to E., where we
stop at the right shore.
Last night I awoke up several times, and the wild geese on the
neighbouring lake, seemed to call to me in a friendly manner, and
scream “Here _we_ are, for you have not had for a long time either
sheep, goats, or fowls.” I was on the wing therefore at day-break,
but saw only four royal cranes (grus royal, Arabic gornu, or chornu),
one of whom I shot, for they are very delicious when dressed in
a ragout. Feïzulla, although he has been seven years in England,
drinks drams and wine like a Turk, and scruples to dine with me,
because I had not cut the bird’s throat immediately after it was
shot, whilst it was yet alive, and made it debièg (koscher, as the
Jews say). These beautiful birds, with a tuft of golden hair and
shining feathers, appear in flocks on the White River: my Sale killed
a brace in a moment, and would have brought us more if he could have
followed them. The geese would only surrender at discretion to the
“longue carabine,” and I had only my short double-barrel.
I visited once more, on this occasion, the hill above-mentioned,
which I found quite adapted for the situation of a village. I had seen
already the remains of potters’ ware, and solitary flower-gardens,
or plots of ground trodden down, where once tokuls stood, but where
now neither grass nor shrubs could grow; and I came to the conclusion
that a considerable village must have stood there, which could have
belonged only to the Nuèhrs, and was probably destroyed by the
Shilluks. Thermometer, sunrise, 21°; half-past nine o’clock,
28°; noon, 29°; no rise beyond that was perceptible afterwards.
_13th March._—Departure at seven o’clock, with libàhn to
E.S.E. by E.; then to the left, E.N.E., and we sail with a good
north-east wind. A quarter before eight: from E., in the bend to S.E,;
on the left some straw tokuls. The wind becomes strong, and we make
six miles for the present; the mountain stream seems to be here at
its lowest pitch, and has only a quarter of a mile rapidity. Eight
o’clock; from S.E. by S.; to the left, E. by S., where we are
obliged to go libàhn. A quarter after eight, to the left, but we
halt before the corner of the bend till noon, owing to the violent
east wind. I made a little excursion into the immeasurable plain,
which was tree-less and comfortless; and found two villages, better
built than usual, to which I was not able to approach, and likewise
a long and dried-up marsh. I could not, unfortunately, discover any
guinea-fowls in the durra-stubble.
At twelve o’clock, we proceed with libàhn to N.E., where our
Bach’r el Makàda winds again to the right. Half-past twelve. The
shores, with few exceptions, attain a height of fifteen to eighteen
feet: the upper surface of the soil consists of humus to two or
three feet deep (which may be deeper in the low ground, old gohrs,
and several tracts), and under it nothing is seen but clay or mud,
having a yellowish colour on the shore, from the iron oxyde, with
which it is strongly impregnated, and generally more so than on
the White Nile, where this is only the case in layers. A fertile
country, but requiring human hands, canals, and sakiën. We see from
its shores, and in the dried-up pools, which receive very little
nourishment here from vegetable matter, particularly on the upper
land, that the Sobàt brings down fruitful earth or slime.
From half-past twelve to two, in a bend to the left, S.E., where we
go again left in N.E. by N. On the same side there is a tolerably
well built little village on the shore. A quarter before three, still
further to the left, N. by E. Four o’clock, we wheel to the right
in E.N.E., where we get the view of a genuine low forest, and notice
on the left a village in the winding to S. by E. Half-past four,
also further; a hamlet on the right with straw tokuls, the first on
this side. We see here also reed-boats, as among the Nuèhrs and
Shilluks on the Nile. At five o’clock to S., where we at first
halt at the right shore, before the bend to the left. Two large
villages lie from half to three-quarters of an hour distant, and
I see an immeasurable bare plain cracked from drought,—a summer
shallow lake without any verdure. We go then to the left shore,
the soil of which is less mixed with sand than that of the right,
and gives us some hope of shooting and fishing. The huntsman Sale
returned, however, disconsolate, for he had seen nothing at all.
The left shore is still more precipitous and higher here than the
right one, because the stream forces itself into this bend. When we
disembark, we find that the land again rises to a gentle acclivity,
and we have the prospect of a large lake about three quarters of an
hour distant, which overflows perhaps deeper into the Sobàt. Many
lakes of this kind must be found in the country of the Dinkas, because
springs, as in the Taka country, are not sufficient for the watering
of the cattle of this merissa-loving, dancing and singing tribe;
and besides, the drawing of the water would cause too much trouble.
The Sobàt is stagnant here in the proper sense of the word, and no
log can determine anything else.
_14th March._ We navigate again on the right side, and go at half-past
seven o’clock with libàhn from S. by E., immediately S.E.,
where the north-east wind remains contrary to us, notwithstanding
the narrow water-tract. Some small and still green reed-huts hang
on the shore, sheltered from the north wind: these are stations for
hunters of hippopotami and crocodiles, or for fishermen, who, however,
have gone away, and taken with them their working implements, for
they are frightened of us. The durra seems to thrive famously on the
half-sandy shore, and rises cheerfully above the reeds; probably it is
sown,—that is, a handful thrown here and there on the vacant spots.
Eight o’clock—E. by N., and N.E. by E. The upper margin of
the right shore is planted throughout with durra, and some small
fishing-huts shew that men dwell there. Ten o’clock.—Hitherto
always N.E. within considerable deviations, and then N. by E.; where
we halt at the corner of the right shore on account of the wind,
for the river goes still further to the left: level land above,
some underwood, and a village at a little distance. A quarter before
one.—N. by W., and about one, in a bend to the right. When the
crew relieve one another at the rope, they imitate to perfection
the Uh-uh-i-ih of the tribes on the upper part of the White Stream,
and during the towing itself they sing the song à-à-à-jòk-jòk,
which would be difficult for a white man to do. The force of the
water is directed here against the right shore, which is without any
crust of vegetation, and seems to ascend to the uppermost margin,
as is proved by the gradations being washed away, and the thin layer
of humus, one foot to one and a half high, decreases perpendicularly,
whilst the lower part of the soil displays unmixed clay. It certainly
required a powerful pressure of water to wash this primary deposit
to such a depth; the left shore, on the contrary, has a coating of
slime and vegetation down to the water.
Two o’clock.—E. by N.; twenty-one dhellèb-palms on the left,
with a pastoral hamlet of thirty new straw-tokuls. The crew are
beginning to shoot down the dhellèb-fruits, and I also disembark on
the shore, beyond which the ground, with the beautiful group of trees,
is still imperceptibly elevated. We are quite comfortable there,
but I gaze far and wide for a point to break the unbounded flat waste
that shews not a thorn or a bush; the river winds melancholy between
the naked shores. These palms stand in luxuriant growth,—a proof
that the soil is capable of other things, and may look for a better
future. The very pretty straw-huts present nothing worth having to
our rapacious eyes, and near them we remark the sleeping-places,
and a large, glimmering heap of dung, serving at night for fire and
a bed. The cow-dung is collected in little heaps in the enclosure,
surrounded with palings, where the beast is tied, and is still quite
fresh: notwithstanding this, it is very certain that we expect in vain
the return this evening of these beautifully spotted cattle. Standing
on an old trunk of a tree, I remarked a large village on the right
shore at a quarter of an hour up the river.
The dhellèb-tree has the same fibrous texture of bark, and of the
interior of the trunks, as the dates and dome-palms; but it is far
finer, thicker, and stronger. The outside of the bark shews rings from
below upwards, and the tree itself shoots forth slenderly from the
earth, and swells gradually towards the centre to a spheroid form,
when it decreases again to the top, and rises stately, separating
the head from the stem. The fruit is as large as a child’s head,
and in clusters, as in the palms before named, but on far stronger
stalks, from which it hangs down immediately close to the stem. It is
smooth outside, and of a golden colour, like its pulp; the latter is
fibrous, of a bitter-sweet taste, like chewing soft wood and leaves
behind in the mouth an astringent taste, which may arise here from
the fruit not being fully ripe. There are from four to six kernels
in this gold apple of the size of a child’s hand, or of those of
the dome-palms: the stalk has a scaly covering, surrounding about a
third part of the fruit. The kernels, or the nuts, have themselves
a solid pulp, shining like dark glass, being exactly similar to
that of the dome-fruit: at first it is like milk, but on coming to
maturity becomes of the consistency of horn. The trunk of palms is
surrounded with the same kind of rings as the date-tree, the rind
feeling smooth, like planed wood; consequently it was impossible
to climb these trees to gather any fruit, owing principally to the
swelling in the centre, and therefore it was shot down. After several
attempts, we drove large nails in the stem, to hold the rope by,
and then we ascended gradually.
The bark falls off on the ground, as is the case with the other
palms, for the tree throws out foliage like grass from the interior:
the thick rootlets spread themselves in all directions through the
ground, like polypi, with a thousand veins of life.
There seems to me to be no doubt that the Egyptian pillars, protruding
in the middle, derived their origin from the dhellèb-palms, which
might have been transplanted in the Thebaïs; for it was impossible
that the Egyptians should not take notice of the unusual shape of
this tree—they who borrowed all their forms and embellishments, even
to those of their spoons and salve-boxes, from the kingdom of nature.
Lifeless figures having no meaning are never represented by them;
flowers, foliage, leaves, sacred animals, or parts of them properly
introduced, are intermixed with hieroglyphics, like a garland, without
beginning or end. The Greeks quickly seized what was beautiful in
this, discarded what was heavy and confused, and pleased themselves
and succeeding ages by lighter and more elegant forms. They placed
the acanthus and horns, or volutes on the capitals of their pillars,
and the Germans planted a stone-forest as the holiest of holy.
A large village of the Nuèhrs (judging from several potsherds) stood
on our hill: this nation dwells up the river from hence and in the
direction of the White Stream, where we had seen them last. I had
found also on the last landing-place fragments and the foundations
of a village, and heard from our blacks that the Shilluks, several
years ago, had a great war with the Nuèhrs, drove them from these
parts, and took possession of the lake abounding in fish, which I
have previously mentioned. We have not remarked any sunt among the
mimosas from the country of Bari up to the Sobàt, and even on this
river, but we see talle. The latter tree has a reddish bark; the long
white prickles grow by couples; the flowers are whitish and without
any particular scent; the bark, however, is used for pastilles, and,
when rubbed, sprinkled on the merissa. It affords the best gum (gamme,
semmag), which is white like that from sunt, while that from the sejal
(or sayal) is blackish. Thermometer yesterday morning 22°, and did
not rise beyond 27°, and this morning 18°; noon 26° to 29°.
_15th March._ We leave our beautiful palms at half-past nine
o’clock, and go from E. by N., and notwithstanding the strong
north-east wind, slowly in the bend to the right. A quarter after
ten, S.E. by E., then a very short tract S.S.E.: some grass huts
of fishermen, and crocodile and hippopotami hunters at the lower
declivity of the shore on the left. Half-past ten, to the left
S.E., and further to the left, S.E. by E., where we halt at eleven
o’clock, because an Arabian soldier has just cried himself to death
before our cabin! He wept at having to die in a foreign land and not
seeing his mother any more. Nearly all these people lose their courage
directly they are attacked by any illness, the nature of which they
cannot visibly perceive as they can a wound, &c. He died with a piece
of bread in his mouth, because the Arabs believe, and with justice,
that so long as you can chew bread you will not die. It is shameful
that we dare not take even medicine from the fine black physician we
have on board, and much less can we expect assistance or salvation
from him. Ten minutes have flown; the deceased is carried to the upper
part of the shore, and yet the worthy disciple of Clot-Bey has never
even looked at him! We leave at half-past two the place where the
soldier was buried in dead silence, after having received five more
cows, upon whom the crew fell like wolves, and navigate to the left,
E.S.E.; then again slowly to the right. Three o’clock, to S.E. We
sail about five minutes, and stop again at the right shore, by the
corner where it turns to the left, and then again, “Jo hàmmet, Ja
mohammed!” is chaunted at the rope. In the winding below the left
shore we saw a water-hunting establishment of seven straw tokuls. A
quarter before three, from E.S.E. to E. by S. A quarter after four,
E.S.E. Half-past four, E. Some few trees on the right entirely or
partly withered, and soon afterwards a few green ones, of which
those standing lower shew that the water has poured into the shores,
even to the margin. Five o’clock, E. by N., then slowly right to
E., where we halt at a quarter of an hour later. The river makes a
strong bend to the right, and we hope to sail to-morrow.
This afternoon, when the cows were brought us, I procured a ring,
with much difficulty, for sug-sug, and though badly manufactured,
it is at least peculiar to the country. I saw several such rings
among them, but not one of them had a circular form, and by this
we may measure the standard of their skill. Those which are better
worked, are found among the Nuèhrs. The five cows came from the Mek,
who presented himself in person to Suliman Kashef, with whom Selim
Capitan also happened to be: he was clothed in a ferda, which he had
received from the Shilluks. He wore a very thick copper ring on his
hand, and was of opinion that dress is the privilege of sheikhs. An
old woman and a man preceded him; the former attired like an ancient
Queen of the Witches. We dressed the mek in a red caftan, put a
gay-coloured red handkerchief round his head, and hung glass beads
on him. Another cow was brought to us, but they wanted an enormous
quantity of sug-sug for it, (these trinkets are generally held in
little value here, because the Gelabis frequent these regions,)
and still more for goats and sheep. Thermometer, sunrise, 18°;
noon and subsequently, 28° to 30°.
_16th March._—Man is not appalled in the midst of danger
itself,—if it were so, he would be lost; but the frail human
heart throbs afterwards. Yesterday evening I left the vessel, in
company with Thibaut, to get at a swarm of finches, which birds are
said to give a delicious flavour to a pillau, of which we wanted to
be joint partakers. We were soon obliged to separate, in order to
salute the birds on both sides of their settlement. In my excursion,
however, on the shore, I came all of a sudden within a few steps
of a lion, without having the least distant idea that this fearful
enemy could be in the neighbourhood of all our vessels, and I had
only my double-barrel, which was loaded merely with small shot;
whilst my huntsman Sale, was pursuing a gazelle, at a long distance
off. Possibly our firing had awakened this supreme chief from his
sleep, for otherwise I must have seen him before, although my eye
was directed to a brace of birds at the left; because the underwood
could not have concealed an object of such size, as it only reached
up to the knee, and was merely interspersed here and there with a
higher bush. I was just taking aim slowly and almost irresolutely
at the two beautiful birds, who were looking at me with surprise
and confidence, contrary to the custom of the cunning finches,
when the lion stood before me on the right, as if he had sprung
from the earth. He was so close to me that he appeared to stand as
high as up to my breast, but yet I stood, my poor weak weapon in my
hand, holding it close to my side, with perfect presence of mind,
so as to keep my face free, and to wait for the attack; I was firm,
and he seemed also to be resolute.
At first we stared at each other mutually; he measured me from top
to toe, but disregarded the Turkish accoutrements and sun-burnt
countenance, for my red cap which he seemed not to despise. I, on
my side, recognized in him the dreaded king of beasts, although he
wore no mane, according to his usual custom, but I did not appeal to
his magnanimity. At last he turned his face from me, and went away
slowly with a dreadfully pliable movement of his hinder parts, and
his tail hanging down, but could not restrain himself from turning
round to look at me once more, while I was trusting to the effect of
one or two shots in the eyes or jaws, if it came to a contest of life
or death; and really I remained standing immovable, with too much of
the _lion_ in me to tremble, and to bring certain destruction on my
head by untimely flight. However, away he went, looking round several
times, but not stopping, as if he feared pursuit, and I turned my
back to him equally slowly, without even calling out a farewell;
but I cast a searching look over my shoulders every now and then,
right and left, expecting that he might make a spring like a cat,
and I kept him in sight before me, when I was about to jump down
from the shore on to the sand where the vessels and crew were. I
confess openly that I now felt an evident throbbing of the heart,
and that my nose seemed to have turned white. Taken unawares as I
had been by the lion, the distance of five paces, according to the
measurement I made, was nearly too close for me: on his side it was
only necessary for him to have smelt me, which probably I should
not have allowed. I stood a moment on the margin of the shore, in
order that I might tranquilly summon Suliman Kashef to the pursuit
of the beast, without betraying any pallor of countenance, and then
I jumped down on the sand. When I swore by the prophets to Suliman
Kashef that my account was true, he was ready immediately with his
sharpshooters. At my advice we formed a line of riflemen above, though
I could not obtain a couple of bullets for my gun; but the Turks soon
crawled together again, except a tall black slave of Suliman’s,
who was at the right wing. When the latter soon afterwards pointed
and made signs that the lion was near at hand, his master motioned
with his hand and gun that he would shoot him if he did not join us,
for he held himself as lost, being left quite alone. We set off at
a slight trot, because the lion continued his walk, until at last
Suliman, as it began to get dark, ordered three of his boldest
warriors to go in advance. Three shots were fired, but the men
came back, and described the lion as a real monster. I was actually
glad that the magnanimous beast, according to all probability, was
not even wounded. They called me again an “Agù el bennaht,”
because I accompanied the expedition to see my lion a second time,
and they expressed themselves rejoiced that God had preserved me,
and wished me happiness, with pious phrases from the Koràn.
To-day we sailed at half-past six o’clock from the place to
S.E. and S.E. by S.; at seven o’clock; E. by S., a village on the
high shore at the right.
We saw yesterday, from our landing-place, four villages, lying
together on the right and left shore, which the Dinkas have taken into
their possession. At half-past seven o’clock, after we had sailed
only slowly (two miles), owing to the wind being partly adverse,
we proceeded to E.S.E. and S.E. by E. The strong breeze caught the
sails, and we make seven miles clear of deduction: unfortunately,
the tract will not be long. A quarter before eight we stop before
the corner, where a winding to the left commences, in order to go
libàhn, because the vessels ahead do it. Some huntsmen’s huts, with
their inhabitants, stand on the right shore, and I procure, on this
occasion, a horn of the Tete species of antelope. We proceed, sailing,
to S.E. by E., and E.S.E., and halt a quarter after eight. Again at
S.E. by E., to go libàhn round the left. Unfortunately, the wind has
torn the sail, which I had feared for a long time would be the case;
for it was ripped up in several places, and the Tailor Capitan did
not trouble himself about it. “Allàh kerim!” A large village at
some distance above. At a quarter before one, we go libàhn to S.E. by
E.; then E.S.E. and E. by S. On the right shore a village with Dinka
tokuls and sleeping-places. It is not yet, however, decided whether
the Dinkas dwell there, although the style of architecture of the
tokuls, their grooved and arched roofs, without eaves, seem rather to
denote that they belong to this tribe than to that of the Nuèhrs. The
wind is very strong, and the crew are obliged to tow with all their
might; but the river winds now to the right, and we can, perhaps,
sail. A quarter before two. From E. by N., slowly in the bend to
the right: a village on the right shore, in the bend to the left,
exactly like that on the left side. Half-past two, E. by S. We cannot
see anything of the village here, owing to the high shore; and the
blacks, who stood shortly before in large numbers on the shore, have
fled because they saw the Turkish countenances of Suliman Kashef’s
halberdiers. The Turk is pleased at such fear, which is associated
with hatred and contempt on the part of the negroes. A quarter before
three; S. by W. The wind makes the men at the rope run; but we are not
able to sail, because the river winds immediately to the left. We have
a low sand-island at our right. Our men will let nothing lie by the
huntsmen’s huts: tortoise-shells (water-tortoises), vessels,—such
as gadda, burma, gara—everything is carried off; for the blacks
have imbibed the Turkish notion of “Abit,” and are now askari
(soldiers), who pretend to know nothing of their countrymen.
Three o’clock. To the left in S. and S.S.E.; then again to the
right. Half-past three. We sail a little S. by W. and S. by E.; a
village on the left. The Dinkas appear to mix everything called corn
to make bread; such as durra, lubiën of different species, gourd or
melon stones, &c., of which I have a specimen; and also lotus seeds,
found here in great quantities, and therefore denoting that there are
several lakes in the interior, and the small rice I have mentioned
previously. A large hippopotamus shewed himself on the flat left
shore: he was afraid of the vessels and the shouting of the crew,
and trotted in a semicircle, like an immense wild boar, in order to
plunge into the water with a greater roar. Four o’clock. To the
left E.S.E. Five o’clock. From E. further to the left.
The crawling along these cheerless shores, notwithstanding the
shouting, jokes, teasing, and stumbling on board the vessels from
side to side, and sometimes into the water, and the huzzaing when that
takes place—notwithstanding all the various kinds of occupation and
non-occupation which may amuse us for a short time—is exceedingly
wearisome; and it is well for me if I retain my senses to sketch
here and there an idea, which may be followed out or rejected by
those whose attainments are higher, and who have the advantage of
an enlightened circle, where opinions and views can be expressed and
discussed. Such a circle, however, cannot be found in Bellet Sudan,
or on board my vessel. We halt a little after six o’clock in E.N.E.,
at the right shore. Thermometer, sunrise, 18°; noon, 27° and 28°;
sunset, 27°.
_11th March._—We had a great antelope-hunt yesterday
evening. Amongst others, there was an Ariel with twenty-five rings
on its horns, and a Tete, and three female Tilli. The latter, also
a species of antelopes, are of lighter colour than the Ariels, and
almost white, whilst the Tete has a dark-brown coat with white breast
and belly. The female Tilli are distinguished by having long tails,
but the males are said to be bare behind. I was not able to leave
the vessel sufficiently early to see a herd of more than a thousand
antelopes that were going to the watering-place. My huntsman,
also, who had struck into another road, saw some hundred together;
all the others agreed that there were these thousand which I have
mentioned. But they soon dexterously divided to the right and the
left on the immeasurable level of this land, where there was merely
low grass, wild bamie and a quantity of basil, which latter was also
met with on all sides in the countries further up; and Suliman Kashef
only shot four, and my Sale not a single one. I myself could only see
some antelopes on the horizon, because it was already getting dusk,
and I stopped with Sabatier close to the vessels, in case some beast
should be scattered from the herd, but in vain. On this occasion,
also, I saw two lions at a distance.
At night the wind blew in coldly at the door and windows, and even
this morning the north-east wind was cool. At half-past six we proceed
E.N.E., and in a bend further to the right E. and E. by S., where
we make a stronger evolution to the right. Eight o’clock. Libàhn
from S.E. by S. to S. We glide over shallows apparently consisting
of rubble-stone; the wind becomes strong and tosses the waves. A
quarter before nine, S.E. by S. to S., then still more to the left,
where we are soon thrown by the wind on the left shore, and stop in
E.S.E. Thibaut is with me, and they are calling for him; his ship is
full of water, and all the crew are summoned there: it is fortunate
that we are near land. Selim Capitan neglected to have the vessels
caulked at Khartùm, or to order at least gotrahm (instead of tar)
to be applied to the parts which we had stopped up with some oakum.
At five minutes’ distance above, a large village deserted by people;
we are magnanimous enough on our side to keep the crew from plundering
it. It is slightly elevated: the same is also the case with the shore,
so that shallow lakes are formed right and left, at present dry,
and having vents to the water, which apparently are kept open by
human hands for the sustentation of the soil,—on which, however,
nothing is seen. A number of snail-shells are lying together on the
surface just as I have seen in other places, and it seems that snails
are eaten. We remain here on account of the accident to Thibaut’s
vessel, but the shores, _à talus_, do not allow us to bring it on
the dry land. Thermometer 17° and 24°.