EXAMINATION OF AN ARM OF THE NILE. — FORESTS ON THE BANKS. —
PRICE OFFERED IN ENGLAND FOR A LIVE HIPPOPOTAMUS. — THESE ANIMALS
RARELY MET WITH IN EGYPT. — THE LIÈNNS. — ROPES MADE FROM THE
LEAVES OF THE DOUM-PALM. — UÈKA. — CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION
OF THE LIÈNNS. — THE EMEDDI-TREE. — DÖBKER-TREE. —
COTTON-TREES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — TRIBES OF THE BODSCHOS
AND KARBORAHS. — LABYRINTHS OF THE WHITE STREAM. — BARTER
WITH THE KARBORÀHS. — THEIR DRESS, ARMS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. —
MOUNT NERKANJIN. — ISLAND OF TUI. — THE KOKIS. — CONTEST WITH
HIPPOPOTAMI. — CROCODILES’ EGGS. — HOSTILITY OF THE TSHIÈRRS TO
THE ELLIABS. — EBONY CLUBS. — THE BÒHRS: THEIR SONGS, ORNAMENTS,
ETC. — ANT-HILLS. — “IRG-EL-MOJE” OR WATER-ROOT, A SPECIES
OF VEGETABLE. — VETCHES. — THE ANDURÀB OR ENDERÀB-TREE. —
THE DAKUIN-TREE. — A SOLDIER STABBED BY A NATIVE. — ANTIQUITY
OF DUNG-FIRES.
6th February.—Yesterday the doubtful river was indeed investigated,
but only for a very short distance, for the wind was contrary, and
the sailors and soldiers murmured loudly, because they knew that
this intermediate voyage, which threatened to delay their arrival in
Khartùm, arose from the Franks. Under such circumstances, even the
expressions of the natives of the country cannot be depended upon,
for our black soldiers can translate just what pleases them. At
first the river was said to come from the mountains above, and
now they make it take its origin as a gohr near the Liènns. We
had an interpreter with us, who is familiar with its shores, and
who returned to us at this opportunity. When he also confirmed the
new assertion, the further examination was provisionally given up
after a course of about an hour long. Where it flows down N.W. by
N., we turned round and navigated W. by N. out of it back to
our encampment. The projecting shore had deceived me, therefore,
when previously passing by, with respect to the direction of this
arm of the Nile. It is called Kiehr, which is the often-heard kir
(water), thence Kirboli, Kirti, Kiti. There is therefore no doubt
that the name of the White Stream, the main arm of which is called
also here Kir-Te, is originally Te, from Barì to Khartùm, for it
is even called Te Uri by the Nubas, the former word not being used
for drinkable water. The country of these four arms of the Nile is
called Kofon, corresponding to the Arabic mogren (conflux).
I repaired this morning on board Selim Capitan’s vessel, and shall
remain with him to-day, on account of his interpreter. It was not
till this morning that it was at last determined to follow further the
questionable arm of the Nile, which we navigated for a short tract the
day before yesterday. Seven o’clock. We leave our landing-place,
and proceed up the Kièhr in a westerly direction. After a quarter
of an hour the latter serves as a gohr to N., appearing soon to
disembogue itself into the stream, which we navigated previously.
We go some paces here S.W., where quite a little island, with high
reeds, rises in the middle of the river. From W. to S.W., from W. to
N.W. The Kièhr seems to be rapid at its tide, and to exercise great
force: we see it by the torn and indented shores, and especially
by the devastations on a little gohr, now dry. Half-past seven
o’clock. A broad gohr flows away to N., and winds immediately
N.W. Our river, which increases considerably in breadth above this
Nile arm, winds W.S.W., and S.W. Before us a large forest; near it
we halt immediately afterwards.
At eight o’clock, a north-wind gets up, and we sail S.S.W.,
and S. by E.; after a quarter of an hour, S.W., and W., and with
a short bend, immediately to S. Right and left pastoral villages,
with lowing herds and natives on the ant-hills. The huts have the
form of a bee-hive, are five to six feet high, and plastered with
Nile slime. The ash-grey people dance and jump, and want to keep
us by force. The women run and sing by us, their hands thrown over
their heads in real despair because we will not stop. Half-past eight
o’clock. S. by E. The depth of the water not more than a fathom. On
the left a long summer village and a harim of several tokuls close
to it. We halt a moment at the right shore, take the wood which
the negroes had already brought for us to the shore, give them some
sug-sug, and proceed. The women, with large leathern aprons, who have
gone away empty-handed, jump and make gestures as if they were mad.
A quarter before nine o’clock, S. Clouds threatening rain. At the
right the forest close at hand. E.S. On the right a large pastoral
village, with plastered beehives, looking like the bakers’ ovens in
the land of Sudàn. The cattle stand with their beautifully-twisted
horns, close pressed together, and low at us, probably because they
recognise us as deadly enemies, and would rather be in the meadow than
waiting here for us. We do not halt for the sake of the oxen, but on
account of the vessels stopping behind, although we ought to take
advantage of the favourable wind, as the water is falling more and
more. Elliàbs are there, who are unarmed, but yet immediately begin
their war-dance. The vessels have, fortunately, not been stranded,
and we sail on at nine o’clock. The village is called Kiùi or
Quùi, and is the boundary of the Elliàbs on the right side of the
river. After a quarter of an hour, E.S.E. Half-past nine o’clock,
S.E. by S., and in a bend to S. A quarter before ten o’clock,
S.S.E., and S.E., where, at the corner, the crocodiles make a great
rustling in the shallow water, and seem to be engaged in violent
combat. At ten o’clock, S.S.E.
I am again very weak to-day, and cannot yet recover myself,
for I want a glass of good wine; every moment I sink back upon
the cushion, and can scarcely hold a pen. The Haba accompanies us
continuously at a slight distance from the right shore. A quarter
after ten o’clock. From S.E. to S.W., and again to S.E. We see many
crocodiles wallowing about in the water, who do not look at us in a
very friendly manner. Half-past ten o’clock. From S.E. by S. to
S.W. The hippopotami, thirteen in number, are crowded like smooth
rocks in the water before us. They spout up the water from anger
at still larger swimming animals approaching, as they may conceive
our vessels to be, for it does not seem that they are in conflict
amongst themselves, or that they want to take the field against the
crocodiles, who are keeping behind us.
A little before eleven o’clock some armed ash-grey men shew
themselves, without any ornaments, on the right shore. From S.W. by
W. to S. by W. We halt at the right shore to receive some elephants’
teeth, but they are too old, and we bear off immediately again to
S.E. In the forest at the right hand we perceive a number of birds and
a considerable herd of gazelles, who stand in an attitude of curiosity
like goats. Up to here the Elliàbs ran after us from the village of
Kiùi. Half-past eleven o’clock. From S.E. by E. to S., yet not for
long, but to the left S.E. At half-past twelve o’clock. We halt a
second time at the right shore, owing to want of wood. I saw here
a large oval shield of neat’s hide, held simply by a stick. It
belonged to an Elliàb; these shields are said to be used more in
contests with animals than in war. This is perhaps likewise the case
with the few larger shields in the country of Bari.
At half-past one o’clock we navigate again to S.E., and a quarter
before two to S. by E. We see that the forest lies lower than the
shores, and that the water enters it. This local quality of ground is
the case generally, perhaps, in the forests. Either they lie behind
the dam of the old shore, which prevents the mass of waters of the
periodical rains from flowing into the river, or the Nile enters
through the chasms of the shores, if they do not lie in recesses
or old river-beds, where the rain water collects and remains on the
clayey substratum, which is the very same even as far as the mountains
of Bari. How could it be possible else that these vigorous trees
(the Tihl or elephant-tree is particularly seen here), should retain
their magnificent verdure abstractedly from the atmospheric moisture.
Two o’clock. The thermometer this morning 18°, noon 26°, and now
27° Reaumur. From S. to S.S.E. and soon again to S. The north wind
has slackened since noon; we navigate slowly, and must even content
ourselves with libàhn, for no one has yet thought of taming river
buffaloes to tow us in the water itself. Laughable as this may appear
at the moment, yet I do not consider it impossible, for according to
the crew, a young hippopotamus is as tame as a calf. The apothecary
Laskaris possessed shortly before my arrival in Khartùm such a
Nile calf. He wanted to make a vast sum of money by it, for they had
offered in England a reward of some thousand pounds sterling to any
one who would bring a live hippopotamus to London. It is well known
that a living species has never yet been seen in Europe. His avarice
did not allow him, however, to place the beast in some garden close
to the Nile; nor did he provide a cow and fresh milk. He was even
foolish enough to lower it into the cold cistern, where it died in
a few days. Although this primitive animal was formerly indigenous
in Egypt, yet now it very rarely descends over the cataracts to
that country. Mohammed Ali had received such a beast as a present
from Upper Nubia, which was kept for some years as a curiosity in
a reservoir in the Nile at Bulak, the lower port of Kàhira.
Half-past three o’clock.—From S. to S.E. by S. On the right, in
the badly planted Haba, the first doum-palms again, standing at the
corner, which we pass by at a quarter before three, for a very short
tract to S.S.W., and equally rapidly S.S.E., to go at three o’clock
again S.S.W., and immediately to S. A half-finished tokul-village
rises very humbly between some old low huts. There were here benches
in the form of couches, which I had not yet seen on the White Stream,
although I had not exactly regretted their absence. They consist of
cudgels, and every single tokul has its seat of repose. Half-past
three o’clock. From S.W. to S. by E. Near the doum-palms, we see
also solitary and unusually high poison-trees in the forest, at the
right hand. The country appears very little populated; perhaps a
sign that we are really in a tributary arm or gohr. This was also
the case even where the Kièhr disembogues near the Elliàbs. The
scantier population may arise, in part, from the more recent lines
of the shore being less constant. The solitary tokuls belong to
fishermen, if we may judge from the sürtuks and fish-baskets set
up. Four o’clock. From S. in a bend to S.E. On the left a long and
miserable village stretches along the shore, with nine carcases of
tokuls, and small tobacco-plantations. This appears also to be a
village of fish-eaters.
Half-past four o’clock. Still the solitary tokuls, with fishing
implements and sürtuks. From S.E. by S., a short tract to S. The
natives are of a friendly disposition, and laughed immoderately,
when the sailors, among whom our Abu Hashis play the principal part,
imitated the cry and laughter of the women. By the short stakes,
which are already sufficiently known to us, we perceive that their
icthyophagism has a flesh-side. They also use the word matta (lord
and king) when they address us. It may, therefore be a borrowed
word among them; it is said also to be used in Habesh. A quarter
before five o’clock, from S.S.W. to S. by E. A miserable village,
with tobacco-plantations, on the left shore, but the divine smoke
rising close by, asserts the old attractive power of meat. We stop
for a moment, at five o’clock, at the right shore, as if we were
about to land, but the drum is beat, and the tired crew must again
to the rope. S.E. by S. The village at the right shore, before
which a little sycamore hangs over the river, is better built,
and its several magazines testify that the people apply themselves
to agriculture. Half-past five o’clock. At the upper end of the
village the river winds in an arch S.E. by E. We see continually
doum-palms in the forest of the left shore, whereon a village rises.
At last we are again close to the main stream, and near the Island of
Buko. At sunset we halt at the right shore S.S.E. We see from hence
the trees near which, a few days ago, we lay at anchor by the village
of Buko, and also the village itself, but separated from it by land,
and our gohr,—the presumed river, winds to the right.
The Liènns dwell here; and the interpreter already dismissed,
Gùmberi, who had left us in Berize, the capital of the Bambers,
came to us again. Clothing appears here to be the privilege only
of the chiefs, for Gùmberi was obliged to take off his red shirt,
it being against the Ethiopian regulations about dress, and he was
asked whether he was a sheikh. (I use here, as throughout my book,
the word sheikh of the Arabic language, as the most significant in
analogous circumstances.) There are many doum-palms here, especially
young copse, upon which the sailors pounce, and take the leaves to
make cords of them. I see, to my sorrow, that they do not even spare
the narrow convoluted hearts, which are four to five feet long. The
leaves are plucked, laid in bundles upon a stone, and worked with a
stick, till they are split into fibres; then they are again twisted
together, sorted anew, and laid, like coarse hemp, in the sun to
dry. The very same process takes place with the inside bark of
various trees. I got, subsequently, in the country of the Shilluks,
a small handful of flax, which, according to my Tshauss Marian, was
prepared from the bark of the Baobàb: this tree is called in the
Nuban language, Omràh; its fruit, however, Tabeldi. It is whiter
than flax, shining like raw silk, and feels exactly like the latter.
_7th February._—The beating of the doum-leaves goes on again at
daybreak, as if the crew wanted to acquire enormous treasures by
them in Khartùm. It appears as if we shall remain here to-day,
on account of the doum-palms and hunting. Our encampment is an old
bean-field, from which my servants brought me, in a very short time,
a number of beans, quite young, to eat as a salad. Unfortunately I
must begin to be sparing of my vinegar, for it is truly welcome to
me in these regions, as the most refreshing restorative, although
it causes thirst afterwards. I have almost entirely renounced meat,
and live principally on coffee, biscuit and uèka. The people cannot
subsist without this dried bamie, and therefore my men have laid
in a plentiful stock. Rubbed to a meal on the murhaka, I have it
boiled to a thick pap, with onions and the pepper of the country,
(fillfill bèlladi), and I afterwards pour vinegar over it. I remarked
this morning that Arnaud noted 82° atmospheric moisture, although
the hygrometer has entirely left off working. I made him comprehend
that this was somewhat too much here; he took the thing, however,
as a bagatelle, and said that it would rectify itself afterwards!
The race of the Liènns, who dwell here, is called Kikin, and the
Tshièrrs live opposite. The Liènns are friendly, and even sociable:
they allow themselves to be joked with, and take the blows with reeds,
which the sailors deal them, as play; but do not venture to return
them. Though these people are inclined generally to jesting, and merry
scenes often take place with our wags, during which the former are a
pattern of good humour, yet they still remain extremely mistrustful
in barter. It is not till they have grasped the beads firmly in their
hands, that they let the goods go which are to be given for them. I
remark that the number of the stippled lines on their forehead is
usually from three to five; we see many also with quite a smooth
forehead. Their weapons are better than those of the Elliàbs, and
they exhibit, on the whole, more wealth, not only by their ornaments,
which, indeed, _per se_, are insignificant, but, in particular,
by a certain plumpness of body, denoting better nourishment.
They bring us baskets, very neatly plaited, of split bamboo reeds,
square at the top, and protruding spherically at the bottom. I get
some bows and arrows, perfectly similar to those of Bari. The arrows,
with wooden or bone points, are principally only destined for the
chase, as also the spears, with barbs. Iron is dear here, and they
did not like, therefore, to sell their javelins, some specimens of
which I had acquired previously. They tell us that there are several
lions in the neighbouring Haba, and want to prevent us from hunting
on that account. We remained on land to-night, with just confidence
in the good disposition of the people, as we had done previously
among the Elliàbs, and set sentinels on the shore.
_8th February._—I repaired early this morning to the forest,
and returned in two hours, just as Arnaud was setting out, in
company with Suliman Kashef and his men. Suliman altered his mind
suddenly, alleging, as a pretext, the heat; and Arnaud also, who,
before sunrise, was going to slaughter lions and tigers, composed
himself very submissively to return. The doum-palms, if they do
not form a single species, have a meagre appearance, and but little
height; the doum-copse, on the contrary, stands very luxuriantly, and
measures sixty fingers’ breadth in a fan. The negroes have really
no dome-fruit left, and the elephants may have had the beginning of
it, and the gleanings. The poison-trees are unusually large here.
A tree attracted my attention, by its size and light-coloured
branches, similar to those of the sycamore. Unfortunately it had lost,
like the baobàb, its leaves, except a few. The ends of its boughs,
from which the leaves develope themselves, have buds similar to those
of the chesnut-trees. Mariàn says that this tree is called Emeddi,
and is present on all the mountains of Nuba. According to him it has
small flowers, and little fruits of a reddish colour. These are as
large as clusters of grapes, and hang together in the same manner,
only somewhat looser, are very sweet and eaten. The elephant-tree
(in the language of the Nubas Tihl, or also Or Omul—Or, tree, omul,
elephant) stood in abundant verdure, with long young fruits. As I now
hear, its fruit is eaten by the Nubas only in case of necessity. If we
consider this tree, with its shady roof of leaves and its magnificent
long clusters of flowers and fruits, we feel inclined to look upon
_it_ as the Persea, or arbor cœlestis of the hieroglyphics, and
not the leafless baobàb, which is mostly a ruin without shade. In
Kordofàn, the Or Omul or Tihl sheds, moreover, its leaves, as the
beautifully foliated Emeddi does here.
Another tree pleased me, which was covered with white flowers, as
if with snow. The small, pointed, and succulent leaves are something
like those of the pear-tree, as well as the tree itself. Four white
leaves are arranged around eighteen long blue stamina. The fruit
is said to be as large as an egg, and is eaten. The tree is called
döbker, and is also indigenous in Nuba. Among the mimosas we remarked
only talle; sunt seems not to present itself at all in these upper
regions. Nearly all the wood of these trees is soft, and was felled
to be worked into pulleys and other things for the vessels. As the
bark of the muddus-tree is better than all the others for ropes,
and does not appear on the great Nile, it was eagerly sought for. I
found also some cotton-trees with small leaves, in the Haba, which
lies tolerably high, and presents an extensive view. Honey is found
here in the ground, and on the trees, but the little cakes contain
only a small quantity. A large durra-field in the Haba lies, on
the whole, high, and falls away to E. and S.; the soil is strongly
mixed with sand. It must rain here, therefore, for a long time, and
continuously, as the powerful growth of the trees bespeaks, because
otherwise durra, even were it ever so rapid in coming to maturity,
could not thrive without artificial irrigation.
The Tshièrrs live in friendship with the Liènns, whose language
they use, and have the very same _insignia_ of race on their
foreheads. Wherever there are boundaries, such as the river here,
then there appears jealousy and discord. A little slave of Selim
Capitan’s begged to be allowed to throw into the water the other
boy, who was not, like himself, a Tshièrr, but a Liènn, because
he dwelt on the other side of the river. In other respects both
these tribes live in peace; and yesterday a Tshièrr brought us a
young slave-girl purchased from the Liènns, and she was bought in
exchange by Suliman Kashef. We have already become too intimate with
the natives by our two days’ abode for the Turks not to commence
civilising them after their manner. At the head stands Selim Capitan,
who is really earnest about the matter; at his side, Suliman Kashef,
who is not behind the worthy son of Crete in cultivation, and likes
laughing and amusement. The thermometer had this morning 20°, noon
until three o’clock, 27° to 29°, and after sunset 27° Reaumur.
_9th February._—At half-past seven o’clock this morning we leave
our encampment, and go by the rope E.S.E., and soon S.E. A summer
village lies at the right shore, and an island in the water, which
is low and covered with green vegetables. Two tokuls are upon it,
surrounded with high fish-baskets and hedges of cut simsim, which
appears to be dried in this way. I remark on the island as well as
on the steep disrupt shores, that the lower thick layer of earth
consists of black mould, whilst the middle stratum is red with iron
particles, and the upper one strongly impregnated with sand. The
arable land here appears not to arise from a general deposition, but
has its commencement from the slime of a lake, and the remains of a
subjacent vegetation for its formation. The north wind has set in,
and we navigate round the island in S.W., S.E., and S., and sail at
eight o’clock S. by E. Immediately afterwards S.S.W., a small island
before the forest on the left shore. Eight o’clock, S.E. Here the
island will soon end. Then to S.; solitary farm-yards on the right and
left on the low shores; cultivation before the rising Haba. A quarter
before nine o’clock, S.S.W. The left shore is covered with young
dome-palms, and a large widely scattered village ascends gradually
with the shore to the height of the Haba, in which we remark a number
of large dome-palms. The margin of the shore stretches flat along the
river, and before it lies a completely shallow island, or peninsula,
whereon a quantity of fishing implements are lying about. Nine
o’clock S., then S.S.E., and S.E. Right and left, the level land
is well cultivated with durra, simsim, and especially lubiën.
The wind changes after nine o’clock to E. We furl the sails, and
halt at half-past nine o’clock, at the left shore, after we had
first gone a short tract to E. by the rope. There is a very little
isle in the river, and near the trees on the left shore a hamlet,
under which the edge of the shore is also cultivated. From deck we
perceive five other villages, of which one is large, at a slight
distance from the water. The Haba retreats for an hour. At the right
shore are two villages, and the Haba is still further distant.
The people of the Lienns are, on the whole, poor in ornaments and
weapons, although individuals carry two or three spears, and a
bow with arrows, without quivers, in the left hand. They have the
heads of the spears generally turned towards the ground, which was
not the case further up. This is perhaps rather a sign of friendly
sentiments than their usual custom. They fear, as I saw yesterday
and the day before, even the smacking of the great, long whips, that
the sailors have made from bark for their amusement. They like to
look at the beating of the palm-leaves, and then the sailors cannot
forbear dealing cracking blows right and left, with the dome-leaves,
and running after them. The Liènns understand a joke, and laugh,
run away, and return immediately again to let themselves be cudgelled
anew. They are great children, who are happy at seeing us and our
doings, and playing with the soldiers, although the jests of the
latter are often rude, and at times even end with plunder.
Ten o’clock.—We proceed with the libàhn E. by S. Half-past
ten o’clock. From S.E. to S.W. At the left lie four villages,
tolerably close together, and on the right rises, at a quarter of an
hour distant, a considerable village between trees, on the gentle
height of the Haba; before it a large level field descends to the
edge of the river. Soon again to the left round to S. by E. A crowd
of natives, amongst whom are also some coloured red, welcome us from
all sides. Our gohr is not above fifty paces broad, but has a strong
fall. Nothing is yet to be discovered of the main stream, and we
begin now to doubt in our very tedious voyage, whether we did see on
the 6th instant our old anchorage at the island of Buko. A quarter
before eleven o’clock, S.E. by S. Not far from the right shore,
a large village, near which we hear the lowing of herds. The shore
is cultivated, and we see there some magazine tokuls, and whilst we
are going S. by E., we perceive from the deck another large city in
the Haba. Opposite, on the left shore, some tokuls, and a numerous
herd of cows.
Eleven o’clock. From S.S.W. to S.E. and E.S.E. Half-past
eleven. From E.N.E. to S.E. At twelve o’clock we stop near some
tokuls on the right shore, to allow the crew to eat. The upper
boundary of the Bodshos, who follow the before-mentioned Kikins, is
in the neighbourhood, and the Karboràhs begin here, who also belong,
with the first named tribe, to the nation of the Liènns. They dwell
on both sides of the river, and live at war with each other. In a
quarter of an hour we move on again, and go in short bends S. by E.,
E.S.E., S.E., and S.S.W. From the deck—four villages on the right,
and three on the left. Half-past twelve o’clock. For a finger’s
length to S.E., and then S and S.W.; a quarter before one to S. One
o’clock, S.S.E. On the left two villages seen from the deck; on
the right an island, covered with high grass. We must think no more
of an island of Buko, for this gohr is said by the negroes to lead
up to the mountains; and I had therefore heard quite correctly,
at the very beginning, near the Kofon of the Elliàbs and Bohrs,
where this very same thing was said plainly enough.
If we suppose that we shall again be connected with other arms of
the Nile, for we were near such a one on the 6th inst., which I
still hold to be that of the island of Buko, our return voyage,
with the present waste of time, might become more difficult than
is expected. We should be obliged to wait for the commencement of
the hariff (rainy season), or to seek to regain King Làkono’s
sympathy, which we have forfeited. The want of good bread-corn,
already beginning to be felt, is the only thing that makes me fear
the crew would not then be induced to follow further the White Stream
beyond Bari.
The Abu Hashiff of Suliman Kashef proclaimed this morning a punishment
of five hundred blows of the cudgel to any soldier or sailor who
should be found to have delayed slaughtering his goats or sheep
till to-morrow. They had collected together at different times,
by purchase, theft, and robbery, several beasts, whom they were
fattening with durra, to sell them in Khartùm.
Sand-banks also appear with the increase in width of the gohr, and
render the navigation difficult. A quarter before two o’clock, a
short tract, S.S.W. and W.S.W. Two o’clock, W. by S. A broad gohr
flows here from our arm to S.E., and makes the land at our left a
large island. We go, however, up the stream, and wind W.S.W., where
we halt at the right shore. It is asserted very positively that we
have navigated up and down that broad gohr flowing from here, and
that therefore the continued ascending in the gohr, in which we are
at this moment, and which also is becoming broader, has no object. It
matters not, however, whether we are blind and do not see, or whether
we see as we wish, so that we only go again downwards. Our river
arm has suddenly here again a width of three hundred paces. This,
as well as the depth of the water, speaks, certainly, in favour of
the sailors’ opinion, that we are again on the main stream. The
supreme council would fain, of course, assent to this opinion, but,
to my great astonishment, I hear it is very much feared that we shall
lose our way in another stream territory, and not come out at all
by Khartùm. In order to prevent our returning by the very same road
in our gohr, I propose to navigate up even as far as the mountains,
to set ourselves right, or at least to find some memorials, such as
a village or natives that we had seen previously. Our men, however,
put no more confidence in what the latter say, and the crocodiles and
hippopotami give us no intelligence. The blue-green broken corals
which we had found already in the kingdom of Bari, are still the
same here, and are preferred by far to those of a white colour.
At half-past two o’clock a north-east wind set in, which blew the
_wise council_ asunder. A short tract to E.S.E. by the rope, and
we sail then S.W. by S. in a flat arch to S.W. with two miles’
course. The shores are low and only three to four feet high. The
green forest developes itself behind the slender, half-dried reeds. A
quarter after three o’clock. From S.W. with a short bend to E.S.E.;
at half-past three o’clock E. by N., and at four o’clock S.W. by
W. The shores have been for a long time without cultivation, and
only here and there we see some negroes, but yet there are two large
villages, a quarter of an hour distant from the left shore.
It is scarcely four o’clock when Fadl tells me from the mast that
he sees a high mountain W.S.W. I remark its peak also immediately
from the deck. To judge by the outline of it, it appears to be the
Nerkanjin, but I do not wish it, as I would rather see another
beautiful mountain country. Whilst we are sailing S.S.W. a gohr
issues on the right from our mysterious river to W.N.W., and makes,
therefore, the land at our right, a large island. What a happy
combination of natural canals, and what nations may be still
drinking of this water! A quarter after four o’clock, S.E. by
S. Right and left a village on the shores. There are low tokuls
with clay walls and square doors: the roof consists of leaves of
the dome palm. Their large baskets are also composed of the hearts
of these trees. The village of the right shore has many open tokuls
or cattle-stalls, and enters tolerably far into the land, where we
observe several herds. Half-past four o’clock. From S.E., with the
broad beautiful bend of the river to S. by E. At five o’clock we
stop opposite a large village on the right shore, where many natives
are collected. The thermometer, 20°, 28°, 30°, and 27° Reaumur.
_10th February._—At the first sight of the morning dawn we heard
the great wooden kettle-drum (nogàra) sounding opposite in the large
village of Karborah, which instrument is beaten for amusement, as well
as for driving out the cattle. The watch-houses of the cow-herdsmen
stand in the centre of the enormous herd; the employment of these
men may be taken in turns like that of the night-watch. The tribe
of the Karboràhs, who, as I have said before, are a branch of the
Liènns, and independent, is here likewise not entirely stippled on
the forehead. Yesterday evening we traded with them, and I received
many a pretty thing, principally of iron; for they dwell nearer
the mountains, the source of iron wealth. Thus, I purchased ivory
bracelets, with black streaks; bows of bamboo, with iron ends, and
narrow bands of iron; ropes of bark, which, according to Mariàn, are
from the muddus-tree, and the strongest; some hair-lines, said to be
made from giraffes; thin iron chains, which they sling round their
ribs; but I could neither see a kettle-drum nor an antelope-horn
for blowing. It was with much trouble that I got a surprisingly
beautiful little he-goat, with a head like a gazelle, although the
other little goats have compressed noses. Selim Capitan was looked
upon here also as our matta; and they wanted to take by force a large
elephant’s tooth, which I had already bought, to present to him,
not returning, however, my thick glass beads. Several Nile buffaloes
are found in the river—a sign in the present season of the year,
that agriculture is diligently attended to in the vicinity.
At eight o’clock, we set off from S. to S.W.; a quarter before
nine o’clock, from S.E. by S. to S.S.E.; on the left a hamlet. A
quarter after nine o’clock, S.E.; and we sail with the good east
wind immediately again S. and S.S.W., and make three miles. Half-past
nine o’clock, S.E. Cultivation at the right side, and a watch-house
in the tobacco plantations. It seems as if tobacco were considered,
in the opinion of our people, an article of luxury which may be taken
whenever they like, without injustice. The tobacco plantations are
sheltered here also with reed-mats erected on sticks three feet high,
as a protection against the scorching solar rays. Immediately again
S. Dancing, clapping, huzzaing, and young girls and women singing
on the right shore.
A quarter before ten o’clock. From S.S.W. to S.E. The wind is very
contrary, and drives us together to the right shore, where we make
use of the rope for a short time. The merry girls and women are
adorned with rings and necklaces; only the head is shaved, as in
the other places, and they wear no rings in their ears. They have
the sitting-skin already mentioned behind, and the narrow rahàt
before. Moreover, most of them are armed with bows and arrows,
probably for self-defence in the absence of the men. A quarter after
ten o’clock. We sail again to S. We remark no villages, and yet
there are several people on the right shore; the habitations seem,
therefore, to be up the country in the Haba. It was not till after
a quarter of an hour that a large village appeared: soon afterwards
a second, the inhabitants of which have collected on the right
shore. About eleven o’clock we double a little island on the right,
and at the left a broad gohr, with a strong fall, flows in from S.E.;
near it lies a still smaller island, like a grass-shield, bulging
out in the middle, which we also leave on the left. Half-past eleven
o’clock. From S. Libàhn, E.S.E. Herds right and left; shady roofs
on four stakes. My men have bought a large wooden drum for me, and
throw it down the shore; but several natives, who are against the
sale, jump after it, and take it back by force; it seems to be the
property of the community. Twelve o’clock. From E.S.E to S.S.W. In
the background an island ascends.
The negroes wear frequently small animals’ skins on their heads,
which hang down over the nape of their necks. The sun has as
injurious an effect here on the former as on the vertebral columns
of the latter. A quarter of an hour later to S., and our corpulent
friend, Mount Nerkanjin, steps forward from S.W., blue and boldly,
from the background over the above-named island, near which a gohr
flows from W.S.W. At half-past twelve o’clock we lie to at the
right shore, near the same, to let the men rest and eat. I could
not tell what made me so hot, but the thermometer shews just 33°,
although this morning it was only 20°, as usual. We only stop twenty
minutes, and the poor crew must again to the rope, S.S.E. After
one o’clock, we halt a second time near a little island, the
narrowest arm of which we soon follow, on account of the greater
depth. The current in this canal, which has fifty to sixty paces,
is uncommonly strong. Two o’clock.—From S.S.E. to S.W. by S.,
and immediately to the left S. by E., and right S.S.W. A quarter
after two o’clock.—A magnificent east wind: we shall make four
miles to S. by W. and S.S.W.; but it slackens immediately after
casting out the log, and only refreshing breezes breathe through
the windows. In order to get from this place, we assist the hoisted
sails by libàhn. A small island before us closes the narrow reach
of our course, which our ship, until half-past two, nearly fills
up. Three o’clock, S.E. by S, and on the right round a corner
S.S.W., a few paces, then immediately left to S., where we stop
a moment. “El Bah’r kebir!” our people are shouting on all
sides; for they take the broad stream, wherein we are now sailing,
for the White Nile itself. An arm separates from it to N.N.W.; the
last land on the right is therefore also an island. We go by the left
shore of the main stream, where it winds from S.S.W. to E.N.E. It
is called here, as up the river, Kirboli, and both sides of it are
inhabited by the Elliàbs; therefore there is no doubt that it is
the main stream. The great island just mentioned is called Tui. We
proceed at four o’clock to S.S.W., and Mount Nerkanjin remains
in a south-westerly direction as previously. Half an hour later, we
go from S.S.W. to S.; still no village, nor familiar tree appears;
even the sailors begin again to doubt—for aught I care,—only
forward; so that at last it must be resolved to wait for the rainy
season. At half-past four o’clock S.S.E.; we halt on the sand,
and no one appears to be sure of his point, least of all Arnaud,
who cannot comprehend his own journal.
Every doubt is removed, after considerable questioning of the natives;
we return a quarter before five o’clock from this ascent, and
stop above the Kièhr, which we had come up from the White Nile,
in order to examine it, even to its issue, and had taken hitherto
for an independent mountain stream. At six o’clock we go to the
neighbouring island, between the Nile and the gohr Kièhr. At sunset
29°; this will be a hot night.
_11th February._—We remain near the large island of Tui, make a
section of the Nile, and find the main stream below the bay, where it
divides into three arms, a hundred and twenty-eight mètres broad. It
is called here Landofò; the Kokis inhabit its left shore. The Liénns
possess the right, together with our island, and the shores of the
gohrs, between which is the island of Tobo. Only a few of the latter
tattoo the forehead; some, the shoulders, as far as the upper part
of the arm; and others, the upper part of the back: some have also
coloured themselves with ochre.
_12th February_—Observations are to be made also to-day, in order
to start in the afternoon. I purchase for a few large glass beads,
the first _fine_ elephant’s tooth, and I design it, being the
largest of all, as a cabinet specimen for my country. Now, at last,
it is evident to every one, that we are navigating back our old
road. It is fortunate for me that I am able to set up continuously
and write my journal, affected as I am with fever all the day after
the hot nights. At half-past two o’clock we bear off, and reach
at half-past four the end of the island of Tobo, near which we land
at sunset by the left shore, having made four miles and a half with
a strong current, and the stroke of the oar. Thermometer, in the
morning, 20°; noon, 32°; evening, 30°.
_13th February._—We are to set out half an hour after sunrise;
in the meantime the men are slaughtering in haste some cows,
which natives of uncommon size have brought us. We do not proceed,
therefore, till seven o’clock, in a north-westerly direction. The
river makes such short bends that we bound every moment against the
shore, notwithstanding the very strong fall, and we tear off also
a corner of the loose earth. This, as well as the carelessness
in steering, causes the vessel to draw water continually. Nine
o’clock. We stop at the left shore, near some dome-palms; the
water is a little deeper here, as if a broad arm of the Nile,
from E.S.E., joins with our narrow one, or we with it. Here also
they bring us cotton for sale. Eleven o’clock. We go on with a
favourable east wind. The tokuls for dwellings are the peristyles
already described. At noon we see several hippopotami, some of
them real monsters; these may remain here pretty constantly, being
perhaps their hunting district, because the river is, on the whole,
of great depth in this place.
We get on a sand-bank, close to which several crocodiles are
encamped. The first of these beasts (in truth a fearful leader)
attacks the men who are pushing the vessel off the sand-bank; then
a soldier jumps overboard, armed only with a hatchet (Chadàn),
boldly meets it, and really drives it back into the water. At this
moment shots were fired by the soldiers on board the vessels at the
whole congregation, but so badly aimed that not one remained dead on
the spot; they all made a slow retreat into the water, and we found
afterwards, in the moist sand on the shore, fifty-three of their
eggs lying together all of a layer. The shells were a little broken,
as if cracked, which may be caused by the sun and the humid sand. At
first I thought, indeed, that these eggs might be near hatching; but
I was persuaded of their freshness, when the crew eat them, roasted in
ashes, with much goût. I tried also a little one, and found the usual
taste of eggs, only it seemed to me particularly dry, and the white
was more spongy and not compact. My servants had preserved eight of
the eggs, which I put among those found in the neighbourhood of the
crocodile shot by Suliman Kashef. I see that the latter are smaller,
but thicker and rounder than the first-named. In general they do not
exceed the size of a goose’s egg, and differ from birds’ eggs,
especially by both ends being uniformly arched. When I compared
these eggs subsequently, in Khartùm, with another one, found by me
lying openly in the sand of the shore of the united stream, on our
journey to Sennaar, I found the latter to be considerably larger
than those of the White Stream. Without wishing to decide by this
on the different species of crocodiles, I remark that the people
here well know that there are such distinctions. At one o’clock,
we halt at the right shore, near a pastoral village, but do not
find the expected oxen. About five o’clock we push off again,
and a Nile arm divides to N.E.; then comes another from S.E., and
winds E.S.E. This is the arm, according to the general assertion,
which we previously ascended.
_14th February._—We at eight o’clock, navigate, the gohr, which
is new to us, and goes from N. to N.W. Right and left dwell the
Elliàbs; also on both shores of the gohr from whence we came. The
Tshiérrs follow the Elliàbs; their boundary is determined by some
dome-palms. The former made, yesterday, a marauding and murderous
attack on the island-land enclosed by the gohr, and killed several
men; they were, however, put to flight by the Elliàbs, who hastily
collected, and were driven over the water, by which they left three
dead. The Elliàbs mean now to make a great war against them, and
would not, on that account, sell us any of the few spears which these
poor pastoral people possess. The Kièhrs dwell, according to the
inquiries made by Selim Capitan over the island, on the right shore
of the Nile arm, which we ascend, the river being also called there
Kièhr, as we have already mentioned. This circumstance may have led
Selim wrong, for the Bohrs dwell there, as I ascertained with the
assistance of my Jengàh. After a quarter of an hour, we again stop
close to the left shore, where our river-arm, called here the Kir,
flows to N.W. Hardly any people come to us, and the few we see are
dirty, covered with ashes, and without ornaments. Their spears, small
in number, are however kept polished, as the negroes generally clean
carefully every thing pertaining to weapons, and iron decorations,
except when they have coloured red with ochre their entire bodies,
and then every thing they carry on them and with them is dyed
with the same colour. We see clouds, foreboders of rain, almost
uninterruptedly in the sky. Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; from
twelve to three o’clock not more than 30°, at sunset 29°. The
Frenchmen add still more degrees, and see also more, in order to
frighten their readers at such a country.
We go, after a short halt, to the right shore, where there is
a large cattle village, with many sleeping-places and plastered
bee-hives, or tokuls, their tops being lightly covered with straw
or reeds: large herds there. We navigate, with the stern of the
vessel foremost, although the captain is on deck, towards N.N.W.,
and shall halt immediately at the left shore near a little pastoral
village. The red colour of the large heaps of ashes arises only from
the burnt cows’ dung. 3 o’clock. Selim Capitan has just returned
after a long voyage downwards. No water; therefore libàhn again,
back into the gohr traversed previously. I procured to-day, from
the herdsmen, four heavy breakers of beads or hassaeis of ebony,
without ornament; and I see also here old woollen morions, of which
I possess already one specimen. The Frenchmen still keep their
windows hung with curtains or closed, so as not to be disturbed by
the exterior world. At half-past four o’clock we are so fortunate
as to enter our old gohr E.S.E., and come soon to the old encampment
(I am again ill, as I was then,) turn the bow foremost, go N.W.,
and stop at sunset to N. at the left shore. I purchase a miserable
little stool, which is rare here, from the Elliàbs.
_15th February._—I have received, from Selim Capitan, a Bohr, as
drogman, but he will do nothing at first, for he is too hungry. The
river flows at half-past six, and up to seven o’clock, continually
to N., with declinations to N.W., where a small island appears on
the right. Again N.; on the left a large pastoral village of the
name of Uadir, belonging to the Elliàbs, or as our Bohrs call
them, Alliababe. The Bohrs possess the right shore, between whom
and the Elliàbs eternal war prevails. N.N.W.: on the left a little
island. Half-past seven o’clock. Over the dry straw of the shore on
the left green copse is sprouting, the tree-tops of the neighbouring
forest. Some drops of rain fell to-night on Feïzulla Capitan’s
fiery brandy-nose, as if on a hot stone, while he was sleeping on
deck; now, also, I feel some drops on my cool, pale nose. A fine
prospect! for neither are our corn magazines well covered, nor our
cabins air-tight above, thanks to Selim Capitan’s negligence. From
N.N.E. immediately again N.N.W. Eight o’clock. Right and left a
forest, preceded by a narrow border of the shore. A little island on
the right displays its green margin of reeds and creepers, as we see
in all of them. We halt at the sandy right shore: the left is fertile
soil, which is also the case on the right, though only for a short
tract. Suliman Kashef’s mallem was buried here the preceding year,
and Suliman visited now his grave under the trees. Opposite to us
lies the tolerably large pastoral village of Kelagò, a portion of
which only I draw, because it is like all the others. Thibaut also
has applied himself to the ivory trade; he has just acquired three
elephants’ teeth. Half-past nine o’clock. Away to N. and N.W.;
at ten o’clock, a small pastoral village on the left, with ash-grey
people. The forest extends at one side, and was refreshing to us,
with its various tints of green. Here and there the sun breaks
through the clouds, and casts picturesque gleams of light around;
I can even enjoy it, for I feel myself again better after the very
strong perspiration I had in the night.
The Bohrs have lines on their foreheads like the Elliàbs, not
waved, however, like the latter, but straight, and also broader. The
drogman has five, which appear to consist of double lines. A quarter
after ten o’clock, N.N.W.; to the left an islet, with flowering
creepers and reeds. We are welcomed with a song, for this is the
usual custom with the tribes below Bari. One leads the choir,
and the chorus joins continually with “jok, jok, are o jok;”
but they have several refrains, among which their “abande jok”
should not be forgotten. At eleven o’clock N., uninterruptedly,
like our direction, with the former deviations to W. and E., the
eternal enumeration of which would only be tiresome. I know enough of
the previous ascent to be able to control my French companions. We
stop at half-past twelve o’clock at the right shore by the Haba,
and push off at half-past one again to N.N.W. The nation of the Bors,
or Bohrs, is likewise poor, and nothing was to be purchased from them
but some teeth, which Matta Selim Capitan appropriated to himself. The
tribes hitherto seen have, on the whole, the same sort of weapons,
although some arms are only similar; everywhere we see solitary
spears, similar to those of Bari. It seems generally that all iron
work is manufactured in that country, according to the taste of the
different tribes, which is frequently indeed very bad, and sent away
from thence; many, however, may have been introduced by intercourse
with nations dwelling at their side. It is a cool north-west wind.
Thermometer, Sunrise 23° to 24°. Noon 27°. A quarter of an hour
later an island five minutes long shews itself to the left in the
middle of the river. We go N.N.W. At the foot of this island, another
one, small and low, and, as it appeared to me at first, cultivated;
but this, however, was not subsequently confirmed. Our course passes
between yellow and light-green copse and other trees. Only here and
there, there is still a dome-palm, quite small or young; yet they
probably serve for the canoes here, for I observed several of these
boats on the shore. Two o’clock. N.W. An island in the centre of
the river which we leave at our right; then N.N.W. I have convinced
myself, by _new_ ant-hills, that these insects, which are somewhat
larger here than the common ant, raise the earth from a depth where
it is entirely wet, black, and without admixture of sand (such as
on the level of the Nile, and in its neighbourhood), to make their
buildings durable. On the other hand, I remember the fallen-down
craters of the ant-hills among the Dinkas. It is now evident to me
that they openly seek a protection against the weather by getting
under the trees when there are any in their neighbourhood. The shores
shew here already a little oxyde earth. Half past two o’clock. From
N.N.E. to N., whereupon we halt at the right shore; for the Frenchmen
want to go hunting.
_16th February._—Thermometer yesterday evening, 24°; this morning,
19°. I made an excursion into the interesting forest: it lies upon
slightly-elevated sandy bottom, on which the dome-palms do not grow
so luxuriantly as in the country of the Tshièrrs, where I counted
sixty lances on one leaf, whilst here there are only from forty-two to
forty-six. I had preserved previously a vegetable, though not knowing
the nature of its root: here the sailors grubbed up some of the
same sort, and I saw tubers on them three feet and a quarter thick,
running towards the upper part to a round form, but appearing to
branch out below like enormous roots. Slender roots shoot from these
main tubers, and on them rises an insignificant-looking vegetable,
a foot high, covered at the top with small oval pale-green leaves,
like those of the box-tree: the clusters of gossamer-flowers are of
a yellowish colour. It is called “Irg-el-moje” (water-root)—in
Nuban, “Otto;” is very full of juice, but of a nauseous, sweet
taste, and is sold in Kahira. The suckers, properly speaking, must by
virtue of the soil here, go to a great depth. Our liquorice tastes
perhaps better, owing to its dryness. The large specimens were cut
to pieces and torn, by reason of their softness, and in consequence
of the greediness of our crew, who are like children, and yet laugh
at the blacks. I took a specimen for myself. The beautiful red peas
or vetches were also found. This vegetable was gathered; but no one
at first knew the foliage, until I discovered at last a few slender
tendrils of vetches, which were still green, and hung together with
the dry peas in the pods, which were burst open. The blacks and men
of Belled Sudàn make use of them as an ornament. They are small,
hard, and rough, like beads, have a black eye, with a white and
scarcely visible line, and are called hap-el-arùss (bride-grain). I
have in my possession several of them. The anduràb or enderàb,
a large tree with willow-like laciniated bark, is very common here:
it has little green clusters of flowers on its lower branches,
hanging in wild disorder; small round fruit, at present green, and
willow-like, yet truncated leaves. Besides many other trees, such
as talles, geïlids, and others, there is also a very large tree,
now thoroughly leafless, deserving notice, from its short prickles,
and little apples. Mariàn tells me that it has small round leaves,
which make their appearance in the hariff, together with a white
flower, and that it is called, in the Nuban language, dakuin. The
fruit is not eaten, but gathered green, and strung round the necks
of children, as a preventive against fever and other diseases.
We do not perceive grass anywhere, and therefore there are not
any cattle or human beings; but there may be, perhaps, many wild
beasts. Wild buffaloes, as I had been assured previously in the
upper Haba, and several of which animals Suliman Kashef and Capitan
Mohammed Agà, the Arnaut, with the halberdiers of the former, pretend
to have seen, are said to be frequently found here, and larger than
those of Egypt. We are more inclined to believe this assertion,
because it is well known to all our blacks that such beasts often
appear among the Shilluks, Hassanïes, and elsewhere. This animal
is called “Gamùs el galla.”
This morning, unfortunately, a soldier was stabbed by a Bohr with
a spear, because, as I suspect, he was about to take it away
from the latter according to the favourite Belesh manner, that
is, without paying for it. We were magnanimous, and did not take
any revenge on another Bohr, who was dragged to us instead of the
proper criminal. So likewise I see the _voluntary_ slaves of Selim
Capitan chained together on the shore. At one o’clock we leave our
beautiful landing-place. On the left a little village appears, then
also a Haba; but it is too scantily furnished with trees, and soon
retreats ashamed before the magnificent forest opposite. After some
minutes a reed island divides the river. Then we proceed with W.N.W.,
our sails swollen by the east wind, and leave it to the right whilst
we go more westerly, but soon again N. The burning of the reeds has
an unpleasing effect to the eye, but the country rises new-born like a
phœnix from the ashes. The island is fifteen minutes long. Half-past
one o’clock. From N.E. by E. to W. by S. A hamlet in the Haba to
the right of the shore, which is here high and precipitously disrupt,
owing to the narrow pass, lies picturesquely. A quarter before two
o’clock, N.W., on the right a little island. At two o’clock from
N.E. to N.W. in the bend, but the Haba has disappeared. A quarter
after two o’clock N.N.E.; on the right an island ten minutes
long. At the end of it N.E.; on the left an old village containing
tokuls with six to seven indentations on the roofs. The Haba, with
several dhellèbs, has approached us on the avulsed high shore; it
shews the genuine marks of the ancient or high shores. Half-past two
o’clock, near the bend to N.W.; on the right many dhellèbs, which
are not, however, of remarkable appearance, especially as the lower
dry branches are upon them. A quarter before three o’clock. From
the short E.N.E. tract to N.N.W. The forest on the right rises
upon sandy deposits of downs, somewhat in the form of a hill. The
sand was once deposited, perhaps, by an unusual inundation, on the
underwood, and has remained there since that time. The shores are
still intermixed with ochre here and there. A glistening long course
before us towards N.N.W., such as we had not had for a long time, with
the exception of the small inlets right and left; also a little island
there. Thermometer 19° and 29° to 30°. Three o’clock. The Haba
has retreated, yet N.N.W. On the left a small tokul village as before;
immediately under it to the right E.N.E. and W.N.W., again a forest,
the only break of the monotonous shores, islands, and villages. A
quarter after three o’clock. From a short westerly direction to
N.N.W. We halt at the right shore; perhaps Selim Capitan’s vessel
draws water—yet, no; the French gentlemen had not come up.
A quarter after four o’clock: off again, and we go N.E. On the
right side Bohrs, and on the left Elliàbs. Half-past four o’clock,
N.W. The Haba on the right rises on downs; we see dome-palms also
on it, but upon firm, dark earth, whilst the sand lies only on the
surface. Moreover, these dome-palms are considerably higher than
the dhellèbs. Violent storms cannot take place in these regions; I
have never seen a single tree torn up by the wind. A quarter before
five o’clock, from N.E. to N.N.W. The Haba remains and consoles
us more than sufficiently for the arid shore, although green reeds
and weeds struggle up here and there, and strike the roots deep into
the vivifying water.
To N.N.W., a long row of tokuls appears in parade before us, without
any other background than the horizon. On the right a narrow arm goes
to E., and places the barren tokul-city on an island. In the bend from
N.W. to W. The tokuls have, in part, the screen mentioned before,
as the entrance; the sleeping-places in the neighbourhood are built
of new reeds, and sixty tokuls without sleeping-places, and huts join
them. This place, inhabited by Bohrs, is called Jemàhl. Immediately
to the left also, by N.W, a tokul-village opposite; the lower walls,
being proportionably high, are partly plastered with Nile slime. The
knowledge of my drogman Joi is already at an end: he does not know
the name of this long village, lying on the margin of the river
like a crescent. Five o’clock from S.W. to N.E. by N. I remark
the circumference of a red cone of ashes in the centre part of the
broken shore: the reeds brush the vessel, and some of them fall on
the plank before my window.
That custom of dung-fires for the encampment of the herds already
mentioned, appears very ancient; for the earth deposited by the river
lies from three to four feet high near them. About sunset we stop,
on account of good neighbourhood, near a pastoral village on the
right shore, where the river winds to N. The goats and sheep jump
from the vessels with delight to the green grass on the shore. We
hoped to get some oxen here, but not any were brought us.