A BULL-FIGHT

"I wish no living thing to suffer pain."--SHELLEY: _Prometheus

Unbound_.

From our first crossing of the Pyrenees we were impressed, even beyond

our expectation, with the Spanish passion for the bull-fight. The more

cultivated Spaniards, to be sure, are usually unwilling to admit to a

foreigner their pleasure in the pastime. "It is brutal," said a young

physician of Madrid, as we discussed it. "It is a very painful thing

to see, certainly. I go, myself, only two or three times a year, when

the proceeds are to be devoted to some religious object--a charity or

other holy work."

No sight is more common in streets and parks than that of a group of

boys playing _al toro_--one urchin charging about with sticks fastened

to his shoulders for horns, or with a pasteboard bull's head pulled

over his ears, and others waving scarlet cloths and brandishing

improvised swords and lances. It is said that in fierce Valencia

youths have sometimes carried on this sport with knives for horns and

swords, the spectators relishing the bloodshed too well to interfere.

Not easily do such lads as these forgive the little king for crying,

like the sensitive child he is, the first time he was taken to the

bull-ring.

The _corridas de toros_, although denounced by some of the chief

voices in Spain, are held almost a national shibboleth. Loyal

supporters of the queen regent will add to their praises the sigh, "If

only she loved the bull-fight!" Cavaliers and ladies fair reserve

their choicest attire to grace these barbarities. It is a common

saying that a Spaniard will sell his shirt to buy a ticket to the

bull-ring, but whatever the deficiencies of the inner costume, the

dress that meets the eye is brave in the extreme. It is recently

becoming the fashion for _caballeros_, especially in the north of

Spain, to discard those very fetching cloaks with the vivid

linings--cloaks in which Spaniards muffle their faces to the eyebrows

as they tread the echoing streets of cities founded some thousand or

fifteen hundred years ago. But for a good old Spanish bull-fight, the

good old Spanish costumes are out in force, the bright-hued _capas_

and broad _sombreros_, and for the ladies, who also are beginning to

discard the customary black mantilla for Parisian headgear, the

exquisite white mantillas of early times and the largest and most

richly decorated fans.

It is in such places as the grim Roman amphitheatre of Italica, whose

grass-grown arena has flowed so red with martyrdoms of men and beasts,

that one despairs most of Spanish ability to give up the bull-fight.

It is in the air, in the soil, in the blood; a national institution,

an hereditary rage. "But it is the link that holds your country bound

to barbarism. The rest of the world is on the forward move. I tell

you, the continuance of the bull-fight means the ruin of Spain," urged

a gigantic young German, in our hearing, on his Spanish friend. The

slight figure of the Madrileno shook with anger. "And I tell _you_" he

choked, "that Spain would rather perish with the bull-fight than

survive without it." _Isabel la Catolica_, who earnestly strove to

put down these savage contests, wrote at last to her Father Confessor

that the task was too hard for her. The "Catholic Kings" could take

Granada, unify Spain, establish the Inquisition, expel Moors and Jews,

and open the Americas; but they could not abolish bull-fighting. Nor

was Pius V, with his denial of Christian burial to all who fell in the

arena, and his excommunication for princes who permitted _corridas de

toros_ in their dominions, more successful. The papal bull, like the

bulls of flesh and blood, was inevitably overthrown.

Spanish legend likes to name the Cid as the first _torero_.

"Troth it goodly was and pleasant

To behold him at their head,

All in mail on Bavieca,

And to hear the words he said."

In mediaeval times the sport was not without chivalric features.

Knights fought for honor, where professionals now fight for _pesetas_.

When the great Charles killed a bull with his own lance in honor of

the birth of Philip II, the favor of the Austrian dynasty was secured.

The Bourbons looked on the sport more coldly, but as royalty and

nobility withdrew, the people pressed to the fore. Out of the hardy

Spanish multitude rose a series of masters,--Romero the shoemaker,

who, in general, gave to the art its modern form; Martincho the

shepherd, who, seated in a chair with his feet bound, would await the

charging brute; Candido, who would face the bull in full career and

escape by leaping to its forehead and over its back; Costillares, who

invented an ingenious way of getting in the death-stroke; the famous

Pepe Hillo, who, like Candido, perished in the ring; a second Romero,

said to have killed five thousand six hundred bulls; Montes the

brick-layer, and a bloody band of followers. Andalusia is--alas!--the

classic soil of the bull-fight, as every peasant knows, and Seville

the top of Andalusia.

"I have a handsome lover,

Too bold to fear the Devil,

And he's the best _torero_

In all the town of Seville."

The extravagance of the popular enthusiasm for these _fiestas de

toros_ is often ridiculed on the stage, where dramas dealing with

bull-fighting, especially if they bring in the heroes of the arena,

Pepe Hillo, Romero, Costillares, are sure to take. One _zarzuela_

represents a rheumatic old _aficionado_, or devotee of the sport,

trying, with ludicrous results, to screw his courage to the point of

facing the bull. Another spends its fun on a Madrid barber, who is

likewise a brain-turned patron of the ring. Disregarding the shrill

protests of his wife, he lavishes all his time, love, and money on the

_corridas_ and encourages his daughter's _novio_, an honest young

paper-hanger, to throw over his trade and learn to _torear_. After two

years of the provincial arenas, the aspirant, nicknamed in the ring

The Baby, has nothing but torn clothes and bruises to show for his

career, and his sweetheart, eager to recall him from the hazardous

profession, vows a waxen bull, large as life, to the Virgin, in case

he returns to papering, with its humble security and its regularity of

wages. Mary hears. On that great occasion, The Baby's debut at Madrid,

the barber, who has just been lucky in the lottery, rents for him a

gorgeous suit of second-hand finery, but in the _Plaza de Toros_ not

even a rose-and-silver jacket can shield a quaking heart. The Baby is

a coward born, and from the first rush of the first bull comes off

with a bloody coxcomb, crying out his shame on the shoulder of his

Pilar, who shall henceforth have him all her own.

The little artist and I went into Spain with the firm determination

not to patronize the bull-fight. Half our resolution we kept,--her

half. Wherever we turned we encountered suggestions of the _corrida_.

Spanish newspapers, even the most serious, devote columns to _Los

Toros_. Bull-fighting has its special publications, as _El Toril_ and

_El Toreo Comico_, and its special dialect. On the morning after a

holy day the newspapers seem actually smeared with the blood of

beasts. In the bull-fight season, from Easter to All Saints,

_corridas_ are held every Sunday in all the cities of southern and

central Spain, while the smaller towns and villages butcher as many

bulls as they can possibly afford. The May and June that I passed in

the capital gave me a peculiar abhorrence of the Madrid Sunday,--that

feverish excitement everywhere; the rattle of all those extra

omnibuses and cars with their red-tasselled mules in full gallop for

the _Plaza de Toros_; that sense of furious struggle and mortal agony

hanging over the city all through the slow, hot afternoon; those

gaping crowds pressing to greet the _toreros_, a gaudy-suited company,

on their triumphal return in open carriages; that eager discussion of

the day's tragedy at every street-corner and from seat to seat along

the _paseos_, even at our own dainty dinner table and on our own

balconies under the rebuking stars. At this strange Sabbath service

the Infanta Isabel, whose mother's birth was celebrated by the

slaying of ninety-nine bulls, is a regular attendant, occupying the

royal box and wearing the national colors. A French bull-fighter,

visiting the Spanish capital, was invited by the Infanta to an

audience and presented with a diamond pin. Not even the public

mourning for Castelar could induce Madrid to forego the _corrida_ on

that Sunday just before his burial. Past the very senate-house where

his body lay in state rolled the aristocratic landaus, whose ladies

displayed the gala-wear of white mantillas.

But the Sundays were not enough. Every Catholic feast-day called for

its sacrifice. Granada could not do fitting honor to Corpus Christi

with less than three "_magnificas corridas_." The royal saint of

Aranjuez, Fernando, must have his pious birthday kept by an orgy of

blood. At the _fiesta_ of Christ's Ascension all Spain was busy

staining his earth with the life-stream of His creatures. Valladolid

was, indeed, ashamed to have torn to death only seven horses, but

Segovia rejoiced in an expert who sat at his work and killed his bulls

with drawing-room ease. Bordeaux improved the occasion, with aid of

two celebrated Spanish _espadas_, by opening a French _Plaza de

Toros_, and Valencia had the excitement of sending to the infirmary

one _torero_ with a broken leg and another with a crushed foot. Such

accidents are by no means uncommon. A _matador_ was mortally wounded

in the Valencia ring that summer, a _banderillero_ was trampled at the

Escorial, and those favorite stabbers, Reverte and Bombita, were

themselves stabbed by avenging horns.

If there is a temporary dearth of saint days, Spanish ingenuity will

nevertheless find excuse for _corridas_. Bulls must bleed for holy

charity,--for hospitals, foundling asylums, the families of workmen

out on strike. If the French squadron is at Cadiz, hospitality demands

a bull-fight. In the interests of popular education, an historical

_corrida_ was arranged, with instructed _toreros_ to display the

special styles of bull-killing that have prevailed from the Cid to

Guerrita. Again, as a zoological by-play, an elephant was pitted

against the bulls. This, too, had precedent, for did not Philip IV

once keep his birthday by turning in among the horned herd a lion, a

tiger, a camel, and a bear, "all Noah's ark and AEsop's fables"? A bull

of Xarama vanquished them every one and received the gracious reward

of being shot dead by Philip himself.

It was on a Wednesday afternoon, at one of the three grand _corridas_

of the Seville _Feria_, that I became an accomplice in this Spanish

crime. Our friends in Seville, people of cultivation and liberal

views, had declared from the first that we could have no conception of

Spanish life and character without sharing in the national _fiesta_.

"We ourselves are not enthusiasts," they said. "In fact, we disapprove

the bull-fight. We regard it as demoralizing to the community at

large. It is, nevertheless, a thing scientific, artistic, heroic,

_Spanish_. Besides, a large portion of the proceeds goes to charity.

We do not attend the _corridas_, except now and then, especially when

we have foreign guests who wish to see them. Before going they all

regard bull-fighting as you do, as an atrocity, a barbarity, but

invariably they return from the _Plaza de Toros_ filled with delight

and admiration. They say their previous ideas were all wrong, that it

is a noble and splendid spectacle, that they want to see it again and

again, that they cannot be too grateful to us for having delivered

them from prejudice."

I winced at the word. I have a prejudice against being prejudiced, and

to the bull-fight I went.

My yielding came too late for securing places in a box or in any part

of the house from which one can make exit during the performance. Our

gory-looking tickets admitted us to the uppermost row of high,

whitewashed, stone seats of the circus proper, where we were soon

inextricably wedged in by the human mass that formed around and below

us. The hour of waiting passed merrily enough. The open amphitheatre,

jammed to its full capacity of fourteen thousand, lay half in

brilliant sunlight and half in creeping shadow. Above us arched the

glowing blue sky of Seville, pricked by the rosy Giralda, and from

time to time a strong-winged bird flew over. The great arena, strewn

with yellow sand, was enclosed by a dark red barrier of wood, about

the height of a man. This was encircled, at a little distance, by a

more secure and higher wall of stone. The concourse was largely

composed of men, both roughs and gentles, but there was no lack of

ladies, elegantly dressed, nor of children. Two sweet little girls in

white-feathered hats were just in front of us, dancing up and down to

relieve the thrills of expectancy. White mantillas, pinned with

jewels, bent from the boxes, while the daughters of the people dazzled

the eye with their festival display of Manila shawls, some pure white,

some with colored figures on a white ground or a black, and some a

rainbow maze of capricious needle-work. The rich-hued blossoms of

Andalusia were worn in the hair and on the breast. The sunny side of

the circus was brightly dotted by parasols, orange, green, vermilion,

and fans in all the cardinal colors twinkled like a shivered

kaleidoscope. The men's black eyes glittered under those broad

_sombreros_, white or drab, while they puffed their cigarettes with

unwonted energy, scattering the ashes in soft gray showers over their

neighbors on the seats below. The tumult of voices had a keener note

of excitement than I had yet heard in Spain, and was so loud and

insistent as often to drown the clashing music of the band. The cries

of various venders swelled the mighty volume of noise. Water-sellers

in vivid blouses and sashes, a red handkerchief twisted around the

neck, on the left shoulder a cushion of folded carpeting for the

shapely, yellow-brown jar, and a smart tin tray, holding two glasses,

corded to the belt, went pushing through the throng. Criers of

oranges, newspapers, crabs, and cockles, almond cakes, fans, and

photographs of the _toreros_, strove with all the might of their lungs

against the universal uproar.

"Crece el entusiasmo;

Crece la alegria;

Todo es algazara;

Todo es confusion."

A tempest of applause marked the entrance in a box above of a popular

_prima donna_, who draped a resplendent carmine scarf over the railing

before her seat. Immediately the complete circuit of the rail was

ablaze with color, cloaks and shawls instantly converting themselves

into tapestry.

At last two attendants entered the arena, walked up to a hydrant in

the centre, fastened on a hose, and watered the great circle. They

pulled out the hydrant and raked sand over the hole. Simple as these

actions were, a dreadful quiet fell on all the circus.

A trumpet blared. Mounted _alguaciles_, or police, tricked out in

ancient Spanish costume, on blue saddles, and with tall blue plumes in

their hats, rode in and cleared the arena of all stragglers. A door

opened, and forth issued the full circus troupe, making a fine show of

filigree, and urging their wretched old nags to a last moment of

equine pride and spirit. Amid roars of welcome, they flaunted across

the sanded enclosure and saluted the presiding officer. He dropped the

key of the _toril_, that dark series of cells into which the bulls had

been driven some hours before. An _alguacil_ caught the key and handed

it to the _torilero_, who ran with it toward a second door, ominously

surmounted by a great bull's head. Then there was a twinkling of the

pink stockings and black sandals. Most of the gay company leaped the

barrier, and even the _chulos_ who remained in the ring placed

themselves within convenient distance of the rail. Some of the

_picadores_ galloped out, but a few awaited the coming charge, their

long pikes in rest. The door on which all eyes were bent flew open,

and a bellowing red bull rushed in. The fierce, bloodthirsty, horrible

yell that greeted him checked his impetuous onset. For a few seconds

the creature stood stock-still, glaring at the scene. Heaven knows

what he thought of us. He had had five perfect years of life on the

banks of the Guadalquivir,--one baby year by his mother's side, one

year of sportive roving with his mates, and then had come the trial of

his valor. He had found all the herdsmen gathered at the ranch one

morning, and, nevertheless, flattered himself that he had evaded those

hateful pikes, _garrochas_, that were always goading him back when he

would sally out to explore the great green world. At all events, here

he was scampering alone across the plain. But promptly two horsemen

were at his heels, and one of these, planting a blunt _garrocha_ on

his flank, rolled the youngster over. Up again, panting with surprise

and indignation, he felt a homesick impulse to get back to the herd,

but the second horseman was full in his path. So much the worse for

the horseman! The mettlesome young bull lowered his horns and charged

the obstacle, only to be thrown back with a smarting shoulder. If he

had yielded then, his would have been the quiet yoke and the long,

dull life of labor, but he justified his breed; he charged anew, and

so proved himself worthy of the arena. Three more years of the deep,

green river-reeds and the sweet Andalusian sunshine, three years of

free, far range and glad companionship, and then the end. His days had

been exempt from burden only to save his wild young strength for the

final tragedy. One summer morning those traitors known as decoy-oxen,

with bells about the neck, came trotting into the herd. The noble

bulls, now at their best hour of life, the glory of their kind,

welcomed these cunning guests with frank delight and interest, and

were easily induced to follow them and their tinkling bells across the

rich pastures, along rough country roads, even to the city itself and

the fatal _Plaza de Toros_. The herdsmen with their ready pikes

galloped behind the drove, and everywhere along the way peasants and

townsfolk would fall in for a mile or two to help in urging the

excited animals onward to their cruel doom.

In that strange, maddening sea of faces, that hubbub of hostile

voices, the bull, as soon as his blinking eyes had effected the change

from the darkness of the _toril_ to the glaring light and gaudy

colors of the coliseum, caught sight of a horseman with the familiar

pike. Here was something that he recognized and hated. Lowering his

head, the fiery brute dashed with a bellow at that tinselled figure.

Ah, the pike had never been so sharp before! It went deep into his

shoulder, but could not hold him back. He plunged his horns, those

mighty spears, into the body of the helpless, blindfolded horse, which

the _picador_, whose jacket was well padded and whose legs were cased

in iron, deliberately offered to his wrath. The poor horse shrieked,

plunged, reeled, and fell, the _chulos_ deftly dragging away the

armored rider, while the bull ripped and trampled that quivering

carcass, for whose torment no man cared, until it was a crimson,

formless heap.

Such sickness swept over me that I did not know what followed. When I

looked again, two bloody masses that had once been horses disfigured

the arena, and the bull, stuck all over like a hedge-hog with

derisive, many-colored darts, had gone down under Guerrita's steel.

My friends, observing with concern that I was not enjoying myself as

much as they had promised, tried to divert my attention to the

technical features of their ghastly game. It was really, they

explained, a drama in three acts. It is the part of the mounted

_picador_ to draw off the first rage and vigor of the bull, weakening

him, but not slaying him, by successive wounds. Then the jaunty

_banderilleros_, the streamers of whose darts must correspond in color

with their costumes, supply a picturesque and amusing element, a comic

interlude. Finally an _espada_, or _matador_, advances alone to

despatch the tortured creature. The death-blow can be dealt only in

one of several fashions, established by rule and precedent, and the

_espada_ who is startled into an unprofessional thrust reaps a bitter

harvest of scoffs and hisses.

A team of gayly-caparisoned mules with jingling bells had meanwhile

trundled away the mangled bodies of the slaughtered animals, fresh

sand had been thrown over the places slippery with blood, and the band

pealed the entrance of the second bull. This was a demon, black as a

coal, with a marvellous pride and spirit that availed him nothing.

Horse after horse crashed down before his furious rushes, while the

circus, drunk with glee, shouted for more victims and more and more.

It was a massacre. At last our hideous greed was glutted, and the

_banderilleros_ took their turn in baiting the now enfeebled but

undaunted bull. Wildly he shook himself, the fore half of his body

already a flood of crimson, to throw off the ignominy of those

stinging darts. The _chulos_ fretted and fooled him with their waving

cloaks of red and yellow, till at last the creature grew hushed and

sullen. A strain of music announced that the _matador_ Fuentes was

asking beneath the president's box permission to kill the bull. For my

part, I gave the bull permission to kill the man. Fuentes, all pranked

out in gray and gold, holding his keen blade behind him and

flourishing a scarlet square of cloth, swinging from a rod, the

_muleta_, advanced upon the brute. That bleeding body shook with a new

access of rage, and the other _espadas_ drew near and stood at watch.

But even before a blow was struck the splendid, murdered creature sank

to his knees, staggered up once more, sank again with crimson foam

upon his mouth, and the music clashed jubilantly while Fuentes drove

the weapon home. And again the team of mules, with foolish tossing of

their bright-ribboned heads, jerked and jolted their dead kindred off

the scene.

The third bull galloped in with a roar that was heard far beyond the

_Plaza_ and gored his first two horses so promptly and so frightfully

that, while the hapless beasts still struggled in their agony, the

amphitheatre howled with delirious joy. Several _capas_ were caught

away on those swift, effective horns, and one _picador_ was hurt. But

the rain of darts teased and bewildered the bull to the point of

stupidity, although he was dangerous yet.

"Dark is his hide on either side, but the blood within doth boil;

And the dun hide glows, as if on fire, as he paws to the turmoil.

His eyes are jet, and they are set in crystal rings of snow;

But now they stare with one red glare of brass upon the foe."

It was the turn of Bombita, a dandy in dark-green suit with silver

trimmings; but his comrades, pale and intent, stood not far off and

from time to time, by irritating passes, drew the bull's wrath upon

themselves, wearying him ever more and more, until at last Bombita had

his chance to plant a telling blow.

Would it never end? Again the fatal door swung open, and the fourth

bull bounded in to play his tragic role. He was of choicest pedigree,

but the utter strangeness of the scene turned his taurine wits. He

made distracted and aimless rushes hither and thither, unheeding the

provocations of the horsemen, until he came upon the spot drenched

with his predecessor's life-blood. He pawed away the hasty covering of

sand, sniffed at that ominous stain, and then, throwing up his head

with a strange bellow, bolted back to the door by which he had

entered, and turned tail to the arena. The fourteen thousand, crazy

with rage, sprang to their feet, shook their fists, called him _cow_.

The _chulos_ brandished their cloaks about his horns; men leaned over

from the barrier and prodded him with staffs. Finally, in desperation,

he turned on the nearest horse, rent it and bore it down. The

_picador_, once set up by the _chulos_ upon his stiff, iron-cased

legs, his yellow finery streaked with red from his lacerated horse,

tugged savagely at the bridle to force that dying creature to a second

stand. One attendant wrenched it by the tail, another beat it

viciously over the face; the all-enduring beast, his entrails swinging

from a crimson gash, struggled to his feet. The _picador_ mounted,

drove in the spurs, and the horse, rocking and pitching, accomplished

a few blind paces toward those dripping horns that horribly awaited

him. But to the amazement and scandal of the _aficionados_, the circus

raised a cry of protest, and the discomfited rider sprang down in the

very moment when his horse fell to rise no more. A _chulo_, at his

leisurely convenience, quieted those kicking hoofs by a stab,--the one

drop of mercy in that ocean of human outrage.

Straw-colored darts, wine-colored darts, sky-colored darts, were

pricking the bull to frenzy. I wished he had any half-dozen of his

enemies in a clear pasture. Those glittering dragon-flies were always

just out of reach, but he stumbled on the sodden shape of the unhappy

horse and tossed it again and again, making the poor carcass fling up

its head and arch its neck in ghastly mockery of life. Cowardice

avails a bull as little as courage. This sorry fighter had been deeply

pierced by the _garrochas_, and now, as he galloped clumsily about

the arena, in unavailing efforts to escape from his tormentors, his

violent, foolish plunges made the dark blood flow the faster. It was

Guerrita, Guerrita the adored, Guerrita in gold-laced jacket and

violet trousers, who struck the ultimate blow, and so cleverly that

_sombreros_ and cigarettes, oranges and pocket-flasks, came raining,

amid furies of applause, into the arena. This was such a proud moment

as he had dreamed of long ago in the Cordova slaughter-house, when,

the little son of the slaughter-house porter, he had stolen from his

bed at midnight to play _al toro_ with the calves, and then and there

had solemnly dedicated himself to the glorious profession. Now the

master of his art and the idol of all Spain, easily making his

seventy-five thousand dollars a year, earning, in fact, three thousand

on that single afternoon, Guerrita little foresaw that with the coming

autumn he should go on pilgrimage to _La Virgen del Pilar_, and before

her beloved shrine at Saragossa cut off his bull-fighter's pigtail and

renounce the ring.

The fifth bull was black as ebony. He dashed fearlessly into the

arena, charged and wheeled and tossed his horns in the splendor of his

strength, sending every red-vested _chulo_ scrambling over the wall.

Then he backed to the middle of the sanded circle, snorting and pawing

the earth. Another instant, and the nearest horse and rider went

crashing against the barrier. The _picador_, with a bruised face,

forced up the gasping horse, mounted and rode it, the beast treading

out its entrails as it went, to meet a second charge. But the swaying

horse fell dead before it reached those lowered horns again. The next

_picador_, too, went down heavily under his jade and received an

awkward sprain. He mounted once more, to show that he could, and the

circus cheered him, but his horse, torn to death, could not bear his

weight. He gave it an angry push with the foot as he left it writhing

in its life-blood. This whirlwind of a bull, who shook off all but one

of the _banderillas_, mortified even the _matadores_. Disregarding the

red rag, he rushed at Fuentes himself. The nimble _torero_ leapt

aside, but the bull's horn struck his sword and sent it spinning half

across the arena. His comrades immediately ran, with waving _capas_

and bright steel, to his aid, but that too intelligent bull, fighting

for his life, kept his foes at bay until the circus hissed with

impatience. The _toreros_, visibly nettled, gathered closer and

closer, but had to play that death-game cautiously. This bull was

dangerous. The coliseum found him tedious. He took too long in dying.

Stabbed again and again and again, he yet agonized to his feet and

shook those crimsoned horns at his tormentors, who still hung back. It

really was dull. The _matadores_ buzzed about him, worrying his dying

sight, but he stood sullen in their midst, refusing the charges to

which they tempted him, guarding his last drops of strength, and,

cardinal offence in a _toro_, holding his head too high for the

professional stroke. His vital force was ebbing. Red foam dripped from

his mouth. That weary hoof no longer pawed the earth. The people

shouted insults even to their pet Guerrita, but Guerrita, like the

rest, stood baffled. At last that formidable figure, no longer black,

but a red glaze of blood and sweat and foam, fell in a sudden

convulsion. Then his valiant murderers sprang upon him, the stabs came

thick and fast, and the jingling mule-team pranced in to form his

funeral cortege.

One more,--the sixth. I was long past indignation, past any acuteness

of pain, simply sickened through body and soul and unutterably

wearied with this hideous monotony of slaughter. The last bull, a

white star shining on his black forehead, tore into the arena, raced

all about the circle, and struck with amazing rapidity wherever he saw

a foe. Three horses were down, were up again, and were forced, all

with trailing intestines, to a second charge. The bull flashed like a

thunderbolt from one to another, rending and digging with his savage

horns, until three mangled bodies writhed on the reddened sand, and

stabbers watched their chances to run forward and quiet with the knife

the horrible beating of those hoofs in air. The circus yelled delight.

It had all been the work of a moment,--a brave bull, a great

sensation! For the performers it was rather too much of a good thing.

Those disembowelled carcasses cluttered up the arena. The scattered

entrails were slippery under foot. The dart-throwers hastened to the

next act of the tragedy. Theirs was a subtlety too much for the

fury-fuddled wits of that mighty, blundering brute. He galloped to and

fro, spending his strength in useless charges and, a score of times,

ignoring the men to hook wildly at their brandished strips of colored

cloth. The darts had been planted and he was losing blood. The

_matador_ went to his work, but the uncivil bull did not make it easy

for him. Bombita could not get in a handsome blow. The house began to

hoot and taunt. A stentorian voice called to him to "kill that bull

to-morrow." Exasperated by the laughter that greeted this sally,

Bombita drove his Toledo blade to its mark. While the final scene of

general stabbing was going on, boys, men, even women vaulted into the

arena, played over again with one another the more memorable

incidents, ran to inspect those shapeless carcasses of what God

created horses, and escorted the funeral train of the bull, one

small boy riding in gleeful triumph on top of the great black body,

harmless and still at last. As we passed out by a hallway where the

dead animals had been dragged, we had to pick our way through pools of

blood and clots of entrails. Thus by the road of the shambles we came

forth from hell.

[Illustration: THE GIRALDA]

"I do not understand at all," sincerely protested my Spanish host,

disconcerted by the continued nausea and horror of red dreams which,

justly enough, pursued me for weeks after. "It was a very favorable

_corrida_ for a beginner,--no serious accident, no use of the

fire-darts, no houghing of the bull with the demi-lune, nothing

objectionable. And, after all, animals are only animals; they are not

Christians."

"Who were the Christians in that circus?" I asked. "How could devils

have been worse than we?"

He half glanced toward the morning paper but was too kindly to speak

his thought. It was not necessary. I had read the paper, which gave

half a column to a detailed account of a recent lynching, with

torture, in the United States.

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