A FUNCTION IN GRANADA

"O Love Divine, Celestial Purity,

Pity my cries!

My soul is prone before a clouded throne.

Let thy keen light arise,

Pierce this obscurity

And free my dream-bound eyes!"

--_Ganivet's Last Poem._

The civilization of Spain, streaked as it is with Oriental barbarisms,

belated and discouraged as the end of the nineteenth century finds it,

is still in many respects finer than our own. In everything that

relates to grace and charm of social intercourse, to the dignified

expression of reverence, compassion, and acknowledgment, Spain puts us

to the blush. I was especially touched in Granada by the whole-souled

sympathy and veneration with which the city rendered public honors to

one of its sons, Angel Ganivet, who died in the preceding winter, a

poet hardly thirty.

Although I had glanced over obituary notices of this Spanish writer in

the Paris papers, I had but a vague idea of his work and life, and

sought, before the night of the memorial ceremonies, for further

information. I appealed, first of all, to our table waiter, whose

keen black eyes instantly turned sad and tender.

"_Pobre! Pobre!_ He threw himself into the river at Riga, in Russia,

where he was consul. It was at the close of the war. And he such a

genius! So young! So true a Spaniard! But all Granada will be at the

theatre. He left his play to Granada, asking that it be seen here

first of all. I have never read his books, but I have met him in the

streets, and lifted my hat to him for a wise _caballero_ who cared

greatly for Spain."

My next appeal was to our kind neighbor, the English consul, who

assured me laughingly that he, like myself, was vainly ransacking the

few bookstores of Granada for Ganivet's works.

"The first time I ever heard the name," he added, "was some three or

four years ago, when I noticed an old gentleman standing often in

front of my house, and gazing at the British coat-of-arms above my

door. He told me one day when I drew him into talk that he had a

nephew, Angel Ganivet, roaming in foreign lands. 'But he does not

forget his old uncle,' said he. 'I always receive my little pension

prompt to the day, and so I like to look at the foreign shields about

the city, and remember my nephew, far away, who remembers me.' That

was a trifle, of course, but it gave me a kindly feeling for the young

fellow, and I'm sorry he came to such an end. They found him in the

river, you know. I dare say it was suicide, and likely enough the

defeat of Spain had its share in causing his despondency; but nobody

knows. He was a zealous patriot, I understand, and all Granada seems

to take his death to heart."

My next authority was an aged Granadine, a man of letters; but he had

not read Ganivet's books.

"I have heard of him often," he said, "but I never met him. He was not

much in Granada, although he seems to have had a romantic affection

for the place. _Bueno!_ Its pomegranates are worth remembering. But

Ganivet liked to live in foreign countries, with the idea of

understanding his own better by comparison. He was young; he still had

hopes for Spain. Eighty years are on my head, and I have long done

with hoping. I have served in my country's armies, I have served in

her Government, I have seen much of Church and State, and since the

night when they murdered General Prim I have seen nothing good. But

Ganivet had faith in the national future, and the people, without

waiting to ask on what that faith was founded, love him for it, and

mourn his loss as if he had been their benefactor. They are all going

to pour into the theatre to-morrow night to hear his symbolic drama,

that not one in a hundred of them will try to understand, and the

hundredth will get it all wrong."

The "function" took place in the _Gran Teatro de Isabel la Catolica_,

a name to conjure with throughout all Spain, and especially in

Granada. The day set for the performance, and widely advertised by

newspapers and posters for a month in advance, was a Wednesday. On

Tuesday, in a fever lest we be too late, we arrived at the ticket

office. We had our hurry all to ourselves. Apparently nobody else had

as yet taken a seat. The office was empty, save for us and our

attendant train of boys and beggars.

The official in charge, deaf, slow, and courteous, invited us into a

private room and gave us rocking-chairs by the _brasero_, while he,

with paper and pencil, laboriously added the price of our _entradas_

to the price of our modest box, and spent five minutes in subtracting

the amount from the figure of the small bill we handed him. The

counting out of the change was another strain on his arithmetic, and,

after all these toils, we were still without tickets. He said he would

"write them out at home," and we might send some one for them the next

day. But he affably offered to show us the theatre, and led us through

black passages to a great dusky space, where, while he struck match

after match, we could catch glimpses of pit and balconies, and even a

far-off stage, with a group of actors gathered about a lamp,

rehearsing the play. In Wednesday morning's paper, however, they

announced with entire nonchalance that they were not ready yet, and

would postpone the representation until Thursday.

On Thursday evening the theatre, choking full though it was, hardly

presented a brilliant appearance. Granada is not Madrid, nor Seville,

and the best the Granadines had to offer their dead poet was the

tribute of their presence in such guise as they could command. The

big, barnlike theatre, with its rows of broken lamp-chimneys, looked

shabby, and the rag-tag proportion of the audience was so great that

it overflowed the _Paraiso_ into the aisles and doorways and all

conceivable corners. People were so jumbled and crumpled together

that, with reminiscences of my traveller's hold-all, I found myself

wondering if they would ever shake out smooth again.

Whole families were there, from the infant in arms that invariably

screamed when the actors were reciting any passage of peculiar

delicacy, to the dozing old grandfather, who kept dropping his

cigarette out of his mouth in a way that threatened to set us all on

fire. The gentlemen, even in the boxes and the stalls, were generally

ungloved, and we did not see a dress suit in the house. Cloaks and

neckties were ablaze with color as usual, but the masculine toilets

eluded our stricter observation; for when the curtain was up, our eyes

were all for the stage, and between acts your Spaniard sits with hat

on head, enveloped in a cloud of tobacco smoke.

But the Andalusian ladies made amends for everything. By some

prehistoric agreement, Spanish women have yielded the rainbow to the

men, reserving for their own attire the quiet elegance of black or the

festive beauty of pure white. The dress that evening, even in the

principal boxes, was conspicuously simple. But the clear brunette

complexions, the delicate contours, the rich black hair worn high and

crowned with natural flowers, the waving fans and flashing glances,

cast a glamour over the whole scene.

The memorial rites themselves made up in quantity whatever they might

lack in quality, continuing from eight o'clock till two. An orchestra,

organized from Granada musicians for this occasion, opened the

programme. The bust of Ganivet, wrought by a young Granada sculptor,

was reverently unveiled. The star actor, Fuentes of Granada, who had

undertaken with his troupe to present his fellow-townsman's drama

purely as a labor of love, read an interpretation written by one of

Granada's leading critics. The orchestra was in evidence again,

introducing the first act, entitled "Faith." After this the orchestra

played Breton's serenade, "In the Alhambra," and the curtain rose for

the second act on so natural a scene-painting of the famous fortress

that the audience went wild with enthusiasm, and the blushing artist,

also a Granadine, had to be literally shoved from the wings upon the

stage to receive his plaudits.

Between the second act, "Love," and the last act, "Death," came an

_andante elegiaco_, "written expressly for this artistic solemnity" by

a Granada composer. Here, again, the appreciation of the audience was

unbounded, and nothing would do but the reluctant master must leave

his box, struggle through the packed multitude to the conductor's

stand, and take the baton himself for a second rendering from the

first chord to the last. At the close of the third act the orchestra

did its part once more, and the celebration ended, somewhat

incongruously, with a lively bit of modern comedy.

There was imperfection enough, had one been disposed to look for it.

The fifty members of the impromptu orchestra had hardly brought

themselves into accord, the acting was not of the best Spanish

quality, and the players had not half learned their parts. Every long

declamation was a duet, the prompter's rapid undertone charging along

beneath the actor's voice like a horse beneath its rider. But the

audience understood, forgave, were grateful, and sat with sublime

patience through the long pauses between the acts, repeating one to

another, "They say Fuentes is studying his speeches." As the caustic

old scholar had predicted, most of them, apparently, did not try to

understand the allegory. They applauded the obviously poetic touches,

the palpably dramatic situations, and when, in the Alhambra act, a

gypsy air was sung, the galleries delightedly caught it up and

chorused it over again.

But in general that nondescript assembly looked on in passive gravity

while _El Escultor de su Alma_ was rendered, as their poet had

bidden, in their own theatre and for them. They may have gathered

hints and snatches of that mystical message from the dead, whose lofty

look, fixed in shining marble, dominated all the house.

The restless Spirit of Man, seeking the perfect Truth, tears himself

loose from the bride of his youth, Heavenly Faith, and wanders in

beggary through the world. Yet Truth for him can only be the child of

his union with Faith, and in parting from one he has parted from both.

In old age, almost maddened by his wanderings and woes, he meets his

Truth again, full-grown and beautiful, but is so fierce and wild in

his desire to possess her that only Death can reconcile them--Death

and that Heavenly Faith who could not abandon him, though he had

forsaken her.

Ganivet's mother, who, with his brothers, witnessed the play from

behind the scenes, is said to have rejoiced in it as a last solemn

assurance from her son of his secure repose in the Catholic faith of

his fathers. It may not have meant so much to that great audience,

many of whom could neither read nor write, but those tiers upon tiers

of dark Spanish faces were full of earnestness and of a proud content.

However it may have baffled their heads, this legacy of a play, in its

Alhambra setting, spoke clearly to their hearts. One ragamuffin said

to another, as an all-sufficient criticism, "He was thinking of

Granada when he wrote it."

A few days later, I found and eagerly read Angel Ganivet's most

significant booklet, _Idearium_, published in the autumn of 1896, in

which he sets forth his dream for the future of his beloved country.

Ganivet claims that the deepest moral element in Spanish character is

stoicism, "not the brutal and heroic stoicism of Cato, nor the serene

and majestic stoicism of Marcus Aurelius, nor the rigid and extreme

stoicism of Epictetus, but the natural and humane stoicism of Seneca."

He holds that Seneca, himself a Spaniard, found his philosophy in the

inherent genius of the country, and only gave voice to the indwelling

soul of Spain. The Spanish church, cherishing this element, became a

thing apart from the general Catholicism of Europe. The long warfare

and incidental intercourse with the Moors stamped Spanish Christianity

with its two other characteristic features of mysticism and

fanaticism. "Mysticism was like a sanctification of African

sensuality, and fanaticism was a turning against ourselves, when the

Reconquest ended, of the fury accumulated during eight centuries of

combat."

The author, _muy espanol_, is naturally _muy catolico_, yet he

protests against violence in the repression of other forms of

religion. "Liberty should bring with it no fear." He believes that

Spain is, above all, _sui generis_, independent and individual. The

representative Spaniard is a free lance, striving and conquering by

his own impulse and under his own direction, like the Cid of old or

Cortes in the field of arms, like Loyola in the church, like Cervantes

in letters. He lays stress on the achievements of Spanish art--the

master paintings of Velazquez and Murillo, the master dramas of Lope

de Vega and Calderon, as expressing, better than political history has

expressed, that intensification of Spanish life resulting from the

struggle against the Arabs "and making of our nation a Christian

Greece."

[Illustration: THE COLUMBUS MONUMENT IN GRANADA]

He finds it logical and right that Spain, after her successive

periods of Roman influence, Visigothic influence, Arab influence,

and her modern era of colonial expansion, should now abandon foreign

policies and concentrate all her vitality within her own borders. Not

by the sword, but by the spirit, would he have Spain henceforth hold

sway over mankind, and especially over the Spanish-descended peoples

of South America.

He winces under the monopoly of the term "American" by the citizens of

the United States--"a formidable nation," he admits, "very populous,

very rich, and apparently very well governed." He notes, in contrast,

the poverty and comparative anarchy of the South American republics,

but he urges still that the Spanish character, shaped through such

eventful centuries, is an entity, clear and firm, with qualities well

defined, whereas the Yankees are yet in the fusing pot. He would have

all the peoples of Hispanian descent recognize and realize in

themselves this Spanish individuality, effecting not a political

union, but a "confederation, intellectual and spiritual," whose first

aim should be the preservation of Spanish ideas and ideals, and the

second, the free gift of these to all the nations of the earth.

The ancient glory of Spain, he says, has vanished like a dream; let a

new and whiter glory dawn. Her career of material conquest is ended.

Those savage struggles have left her faint and spent. Let her now seek

to attain, through purification and discipline, such fresh fulness of

life as shall insure the triumph of her spiritual forces--her fervent

faith and her unworldly wisdom. "Our Ulysses is Don Quixote."

V

Spanish Highways and Byways · 第 21 / 82 题