BY THE WAYSIDE--A HALF-SHAVED PARTY--CONSTERNATION OF A
CLERGYMAN--NATIVES IN NEW YORK--DOCTORING A CORN-DOCTOR--RELIGIOUS
RAILWAYS--THE BRIGHTON BUGLE BUSINESS--CASH AND CONSCIENCE--CASTLES
IN THE AIR--A DELUDED ANTIQUARIAN--GAMBLING AND POLITICS--IRISH
WIT--ABOUT CONDUCTORS--DR. CHAPIN AS A PUNSTER--FOWL ATTEMPTS--A
PAIR O’ DUCKS--CUTTING A SICK FRIEND--REV. RICHARD VARICK DEY--HIS
CRIME AND ITS CONSEQUENCES--FORE-ORDINATION--PRACTICAL JOKING BY MY
FATHER--A VALUABLE RACE-HORSE--HOW HE WAS LET AND THEN
KILLED--AGONY OF THE HORSE-KILLER--THE FINAL “SELL”--FOREIGN AND
DOMESTIC FRENCH--COCKNEYISM--WICKED WORDS IN EXETER HALL.
And now as a traveller, when almost home, sits down by the wayside to
rest, and meanwhile discourses to his companion about minor matters
relating to the journey, or revives reminiscenses of home and foreign
lands, so I stop to sum up in this chapter some of the incidents and
anecdotes which seem pertinent to my story.
The old adages, “Every man to his vocation,” and “Nature will assert
herself” are oftentimes amusingly illustrated. Every one knows the fable
of the man who prayed to Jupiter to convert his cat into a woman, and
Jupiter kindly gratified him and the man married the woman. This was
well enough, till one night the feline female heard a mouse scratching
at the door, when she jumped out of bed and began a vigorous hunt, to
the consternation of her husband, if not of the mouse. Something almost
as absurd and quite as illustrative of “instinct,” or “nature” occurred
during my management of the Museum.
I had brought out a play entitled “The Patriot Fathers,” or something of
the sort; it was patriotic at any rate, and required a great many
people, who had very little to do excepting to dress, group themselves,
and go on and off the stage at the proper times demanded by the
incidents or situations of the play. One night I suddenly found myself
short of supernumeraries to do these subordinate parts, so I sent up to
Centre Market for a supply of young men who were willing to be soldiers,
Indians, or anything else which the exigencies of Revolutionary times
not less than my own immediate necessities demanded.
Now, it fortunately happened that an engine company near by, the famous
“Forty” of by-gone days, had just returned from a fire, and my messenger
proposed to these men to come down and help me out of my difficulty. The
boys wanted no better fun. At least thirty of them came headed by their
foreman, Mr. William Racey. They were soon dressed, one as a woman, a
mother of the Revolution; others as Indians, British soldiers, Hessian
grenadiers, and Continentals. A very little drilling sufficed to put
these new recruits in order for presentation on the stage, for they had
little to do but to follow directions as to where they must stand, and
when they must go on and off. Numbers, not talent, were needed. They
were apt pupils, and did excellently well from the start.
But in the very midst of one of those convulsions which threatened the
fate of the struggle for Independence, the City Hall bell sounded out
the alarm for fire. That was enough. Racey shouted out on the stage:
“Boys, there’s a fire in the Seventh! Put for ‘Forty’”; and the thirty
incontinently fled in post haste for “Forty,” and soon after appeared in
the street, followed by a jeering, cheering crew, the most motley
company that ever dragged a fire engine through the streets of New York.
They were in full costume as they left the Museum. The red-coated
British troops, the Hessians in their tall bear-skin caps, the Indians
in their paint and feathers, and even the “woman” helped to drag the
machine, and at the fire these strange people, including the woman,
helped to “man” the brakes. It is unnecessary to say that they succeeded
in creating in the street, what I hoped they would have done on the
stage, a positive sensation.
I confess that I am fond of story-telling as well as fun, and I inherit
this I think from my maternal grandfather, whom I have already
chronicled in these pages as a “practical joker of the old school.” One
of the best illustrations of his peculiar fondness for this amusement
appears in the following:
Danbury and Bethel were and still are manufacturing villages. Hats and
combs were the principal articles of manufacture. The hatters and comb
makers had occasion to go to New York every spring and fall, and they
generally managed to go in parties, frequently taking in a few
“outsiders,” who merely wished to visit the city for the fun of the
thing. They usually took passage on board a sloop at Norwalk, and the
length of their passage depended entirely upon the state of the wind.
Sometimes the run would be made in eight hours, and at other times
nearly as many days were required. It, however, made little difference
with the passengers. They went in for a “spree,” and were sure
[Illustration: _A GROTESQUE FIRE COMPANY._]
to have a jolly time whether on land or water. They were all fond of
practical jokes, and before starting they usually entered into a solemn
compact, that any man who got angry at a practical joke should forfeit
and pay the sum of twenty dollars. This agreement frequently saved much
trouble; for occasionally an unexpected and rather severe trick would be
played off, and sadly chafe the temper of the victim.
Upon one of these occasions a party of fourteen men started from Bethel
on a Monday morning for New York. Among the number were my grandfather,
Capt. Noah Ferry, Benjamin Hoyt, Esq., Uncle Samuel Taylor, (as he was
called by everybody,) Eleazer Taylor, and Charles Dart. Most of these
were proverbial jokers, and it was doubly necessary to adopt the
stipulation in regard to the control of temper. It was therefore done in
writing, duly signed.
They arrived at Norwalk Monday afternoon. The sloop set sail the same
evening, with a fair prospect of reaching New York early the next
morning. Several strangers took passage at Norwalk, among the rest a
clergyman. He soon found himself in jolly company, and attempted to keep
aloof. But they informed him it was of no use, they expected to reach
New York the next morning, and were determined to “make a night of it,”
so he might as well render himself agreeable, for sleep was out of the
question. His “reverence” remonstrated at first, and talked about “his
rights”; but he soon learned that he was in a company where the rights
of “the majority” were in the ascendant; so he put a smooth face upon
affairs, and making up his mind not to retire that night, he soon
engaged in conversation with several of his fellow-passengers.
The clergyman was a slim, spare man, standing over six feet high in his
stockings; of light complexion, sandy hair, and wearing a huge pair of
reddish-brown whiskers. Some of the passengers joked him upon the
superfluity of hair upon his face, but he replied that nature had placed
it there, and although he thought proper, in accordance with modern
custom, to shave off a portion of his beard, he considered it neither
unmanly nor unclerical to wear whiskers. It seemed to be conceded that
the clergyman had the best of the argument, and the subject was changed.
Expectation of a speedy run to New York was most sadly disappointed. The
vessel appeared scarcely to move, and through long weary hours of day
and night, there was not a ripple on the surface of the water.
Nevertheless there was merriment on board the sloop, each voyager
contributing good humor to beguile the tediousness of time.
Friday morning came, but the calm continued. Five days from home, and no
prospect of reaching New York! We may judge the appearance of the beards
of the passengers. There was but one razor in the company; it was owned
by my grandfather, and he refused to use it, or to suffer it to be used.
“We shall all be shaved in New York,” said he.
On Saturday morning “all hands” appeared upon deck, and the sloop was
becalmed opposite Sawpits (now Port Chester)!
This tried the patience of the passengers sadly.
“I expected to start for home to-day,” said one.
“I supposed all my combs would have been sold at auction on Wednesday,
and yet here they are on board,” said another.
“I intended to have sold my hats surely this week, for I have a note to
pay in New-Haven on Monday,” added a third.
“I have an appointment to preach in New York this evening and
to-morrow,” said the clergyman, whose huge sandy whiskers overshadowed a
face now completely covered with a bright red beard a quarter of an inch
long.
“Well, there is no use crying, gentlemen,” replied the captain; “it is
lucky for us that we have chickens and eggs on freight, or we might have
to be put upon allowance.”
After breakfast the passengers, who now began to look like barbarians,
again solicited the loan of my grandfather’s razor.
“No, gentlemen,” he replied; “I insist that shaving is unhealthy and
contrary to nature, and I am determined neither to shave myself nor loan
my razor until we reach New York.”
Night came, and yet no wind. Sunday morning found them in the same
position. Their patience was well nigh exhausted, but after breakfast a
slight ripple appeared. It gradually increased, and the passengers were
soon delighted in seeing the anchor weighed and the sails again set. The
sloop glided finely through the water, and smiles of satisfaction forced
themselves through the swamps of bristles which covered the faces of the
passengers.
“What time shall we reach New York if this breeze continues?” was the
anxious inquiry of half a dozen passengers.
“About two o’clock this afternoon,” replied the good-natured captain,
who now felt assured that no calm would further blight his prospects.
“Alas! that will be too late to get shaved,” exclaimed several
voices--“the barber shops close at twelve.”
“And I shall barely be in time to preach my afternoon sermon,” responded
the red-bearded clergyman. “Mr. Taylor, do be so kind as to loan me your
shaving utensils,” he continued, addressing my grandfather.
The old gentleman then went to his trunk, and unlocking it, he drew
forth his razor, lather-box and strop. The passengers pressed around
him, as all were now doubly anxious for a chance to shave themselves.
“Now, gentlemen,” said my grandfather, “I will be fair with you. I did
not intend to lend my razor, but as we shall arrive too late for the
barbers, you shall all use it. But it is evident we cannot all have time
to be shaved with one razor before we reach New York, and as it would be
hard for half of us to walk on shore with clean faces, and leave the
rest on board waiting for their turn to shave themselves, I have hit
upon a plan which I am sure you will all say is just and equitable.”
“What is it?” was the anxious inquiry.
“It is that each man shall shave one half of his face, and pass the
razor over to the next, and when we are all half shaved we shall go on
in rotation and shave the other half.”
They all agreed to this except the clergyman. He objected to appearing
so ridiculous upon the Lord’s day, whereupon several declared that any
man with such enormous reddish whiskers must necessarily always look
ridiculous, and they insisted that if the clergyman used the razor at
all he should shave off his whiskers.
My grandfather assented to this proposal, and said: “Now, gentlemen, as
I own the razor, I will begin, and as our reverend friend is in a hurry
he shall be next--but off shall come one of his whiskers on the first
turn, or he positively shall not use my razor at all.”
The clergyman seeing there was no use in parleying, reluctantly agreed
to the proposition.
In the course of ten minutes one side of my grandfather’s face and chin,
in a straight line from the middle of his nose, was shaved as close as
the back of his hand, while the other looked like a thick brush fence in
a country swamp. The passengers burst into a roar of laughter, in which
the clergyman irresistibly joined, and my grandfather handed the razor
to the clerical gentleman.
The clergyman had already well lathered one half of his face and passed
the brush to the next customer. In a short time the razor had performed
its work, and the clergyman was denuded of one whisker. The left side of
his face was as naked as that of an infant, while from the other cheek
four inches of a huge red whisker stood out in powerful contrast.
Nothing more ludicrous could well be conceived. A deafening burst of
laughter ensued, and the poor clergyman slunk quietly away to wait an
hour until his turn should arrive to shave the other portion of his
face.
The next man went through the same operation, and all the rest followed;
a new laugh breaking forth as each customer handed over the razor to the
next in turn. In the course of an hour and a quarter every passenger on
board was half shaved. It was then proposed that all should go upon deck
and take a drink before operations were commenced on the other side of
their faces. When they all gathered upon the deck, the scene was most
ludicrous. The whole party burst again into loud merriment, each man
being convulsed by the ridiculous appearance of the rest.
“Now, gentlemen,” said my grandfather, “I will go into the cabin and
shave off the other side. You can all remain on deck. As soon as I have
finished, I will come up and give the clergyman the next chance.”
“You must hurry or you will not all be finished when we arrive,”
remarked the captain; “for we shall touch Peck Slip wharf in half an
hour.”
My grandfather entered the cabin, and in ten minutes he appeared upon
deck, razor in hand. He was smoothly shaved.
“Now,” said the clergyman, “it is my turn.”
“Certainly,” said my grandfather. “You are next, but wait a moment, let
me draw the razor across the strop once or twice.”
Putting his foot upon the side rail of the deck, and placing one end of
the strop upon his leg, he drew the razor several times across it. Then,
as if by mistake, the razor flew from his hand, and dropped into the
water! My grandfather, with well-feigned surprise, exclaimed in a voice
of terror, “Good heavens! the razor has fallen overboard!”
Such a picture of consternation as covered one-half of all the
passengers’ faces, was never before witnessed. At first they were
perfectly silent as if petrified with astonishment. But in a few minutes
murmurs began to be heard, and soon swelled into exclamations. “An
infernal hog!” said one. “The meanest thing I ever knew,” remarked
another. “He ought to be thrown overboard himself,” cried several
others; but all remembered that every man who got angry was to pay a
fine of twenty dollars, and they did not repeat their remarks. Presently
all eyes were turned upon the clergyman. He was the most forlorn picture
of despair that could be imagined.
[Illustration: _HALF-SHAVED._]
“Oh, this is dreadful!” he drawled, in a tone which seemed as if every
word broke a heart-string.
This was too much, and the whole crowd broke into another roar.
Tranquillity was restored! The joke, though a hard one, was swallowed.
The sloop soon touched the dock. The half-shaved passengers now agreed
that my grandfather, who was the only person on board who appeared like
a civilized being, should take the lead for the Walton House, in
Franklin Square, and all the rest should follow in “Indian file.” He
reminded them that they would excite much attention in the streets, and
enjoined them not to smile. They agreed, and away they started. They
attracted a crowd of persons before they reached the corner of Pearl
Street and Peck Slip, but they all marched with as much solemnity as if
they were going to the grave. The door of the Walton House was open. Old
Backus, the landlord, was quietly enjoying his cigar, while a dozen or
two persons were engaged in reading the papers, etc. In marched the file
of nondescripts, with the rabble at their heels. Mr. Backus and his
customers started to their feet in astonishment. My grandfather marched
solemnly up to the bar--the passengers followed, and formed double rows
behind him. “Santa Cruz rum for nineteen,” exclaimed my grandfather to
the barkeeper. The astonished liquor-seller produced bottles and
tumblers in double-quick time, and when Backus discovered that the
nondescripts were old friends and customers, he was excited to
uncontrollable merriment.
“What in the name of decency has happened,” he exclaimed, “that you
should all appear here half shaved?”
“Nothing at all, Mr. Backus,” said my grandfather, with apparent
seriousness. “These gentlemen choose to wear their beards according to
the prevailing fashion in the place they came from; and I think it is
very hard that they should be stared at and insulted by you Yorkers
because _your_ fashion happens to differ a trifle from theirs.”
Backus half believed my grandfather in earnest, and the bystanders were
quite convinced such was the fact, for not a smile appeared upon one of
the half-shaved countenances.
After sitting a few minutes the passengers were shown to their rooms,
and at tea-time every man appeared at the table precisely as he came
from the sloop. The ladies looked astonished, the waiters winked and
laughed, but the subjects of this merriment were as grave as judges. In
the evening they maintained the same gravity in the bar-room, and at ten
o’clock they retired to bed with all due solemnity. In the morning,
however, bright and early, they were in the barber’s shop, undergoing an
operation that soon placed them upon a footing with the rest of mankind.
It is hardly necessary to explain that the clergyman did not appear in
that singular procession of Sunday afternoon. He tied a handkerchief
over his face, and taking his valise in his hand, started for Market
Street, where it is presumed he found a good brother and a good razor in
season to fill his appointment.
Let me give an illustration of a “practical joke,” which is quite
professional as well as practical with the operator, and in nine cases
out of ten, no doubt, profitable withal. When I was in Paris in 1845,
there came one day to my room in the Hotel Bedford, where I was
staying, a smart little Frenchman with a case of instruments under his
arm. He announced himself as a chiropodist who could instantly remove
the worst corns, not only without pain, but he promised by means of a
mysterious liniment in his possession to immediately heal the spot from
which he removed the corn.
Now I had not a corn on my feet, but willing to test his wonderful
powers, I told him to examine my left foot, and to remove a troublesome
corn on the little toe. Surely enough he did remove and exhibit such a
corn as I am sure would have prevented my walking, had I known that I
was so grievously afflicted. He then poured some of his red oil on the
toe and triumphantly showed me that the place had already entirely
healed. Pretending to be delighted with his skill, I held out another
toe for “operation,” and watching him carefully I saw him slip a
manufactured corn into his oil bottle, which, after fumbling awhile and
pretending to pare the unoffending toe, he “extracted.” More delighted
than ever, I rang the bell, and told the servant to send up the
landlord, as I wished him to witness the extraordinary skill of the
corn-doctor. The landlord arrived, and, after a few words of eulogy upon
the chiropodist, I submitted another healthy toe, and forth came another
monstrous corn; for the same process of extraction, with the same
results, could have been performed on the foot of a marble statue.
It was now my turn, to “operate,” so I rose and bolted the door and took
off my coat, telling the “doctor” that I greatly admired his gold
mounted instruments and the brazen impudence with which he swindled the
public, but that this time he had “caught a Tartar,” and that he could
not leave the room till he had been searched.
The quack bristled up in grand style at what he termed my ungentlemanly
behavior, and threatened if I touched him to bring me before the
“Tribunal.” I remarked that I rather thought the “Tribunal” was the last
place on earth at which he desired to appear, and then assuring the
landlord that the fellow was an arrant imposter, and that if he would
assist me in searching him I would prove it and warrant that no harm
should come to the searchers, he consented, and collared the
chiropodist. The fellow seeing that we were resolved, quietly submitted.
We first searched his pockets and found nothing; but upon examining his
morocco instrument case, we discovered a drawer in which were eighty
ready-made corns and a small piece of horn which furnished the raw
material for the manufacture! Fortunately, my right foot was not bare,
and I forthwith gave the chiropodist a lesson in the shape of a warm
visitation of shoe-leather, which sent him flying down stairs, where the
dose was doubled by an attentive servant till the chiropodist reached
the street. He did not call at the Hotel Bedford again during my stay.
I was a good deal amused when I was in Brighton, England, during the
same year, to see how some people manage to reconcile cash and
conscience. Every one knows that Brighton is a fashionable
watering-place, frequented by all sorts of people; but the actual
residents, many of whom are very wealthy, are supposed to be quite
removed from the fashionable and other follies of the visitors from
abroad during the “season.” The millionnaires of Brighton, when I was
there, were great church-goers, and at the same time were extensive
owners in the stock of the railway which brought so many visitors to the
place. It was therefore for their interest that trains should run on
Sundays, as well as on other days, but as such a course would clash with
their religious professions, it was necessary that some plan should be
devised by which a compromise could be effected between profits and
profession, cash and conscience,--for the idea of ever sacrificing
interest to principle never enters the minds of those whose religion may
be in their heads while it never reaches their hearts. The compromise
between the duty and the dividends of the Brighton railway shareholders
was effected as follows:
After a great deal of talk _pro_ and _con_ on the subject, the trains on
Sunday were permitted to arrive and depart on the following conditions.
But little noise and confusion was manifest and there were fewer porters
employed about the station than on week-days, obliging the arriving and
departing passengers not only to look after, but to lift their baggage,
and as bell-ringing, that is, locomotive bell-ringing, would disturb the
sanctity of the Sabbath, a bugle gave notice of the incoming and
outgoing of the trains. But even this was not enough; it was expressly
stipulated that the bugle-player should play nothing but sacred music!
Thus trains came in to “Old Hundred,” or some similar Psalm tune, and
went out to the air of “Dismission” common to the hymn commencing,
“Lord, dismiss us with thy blessing.” I do not know that this custom is
still kept up at Brighton, but it certainly was so when I was there in
1845; and it was gravely recommended to others who favored a very strict
observance of Sunday, and yet liked their dividends, or were eager for
Sunday mails. In common phrase, it was whipping the Evil One round the
stump in a curious way.
It reminded me of the good old deacon in Connecticut who was in the
habit of selling milk to his neighbors on all days in the week. One
Sunday, however, his parson came home with him to tea, and while they
were at the table a little girl came in for a quart of milk. The deacon
was afraid of being scandalized in the presence of the parson, and so he
told the girl he did not sell milk on Sunday. The girl, who had been
accustomed to buy on that day as on other days, was much surprised and
turned to go away, when the sixpence in her hand was too much of a
temptation for the deacon, who called out:
“Here, little girl! you can leave the money now, and call and get the
milk to-morrow!”
During my journeyings abroad I was not wholly free from the usual
infirmity of travellers, viz, a desire to look at the old castles of
feudal times, whether in preservation or in ruins; but there was one of
our party, Mr. H. G. Sherman, who had a peculiar and irresistible taste
for the antique. He gathered trunks full of stone and timber mementos
from every place of note which we visited; and, if there was anything
which he admired more than all else, it was an old castle. He spent many
hours in clambering the broken walls of Kenilworth, in viewing the
towers and dungeons of Warwick, and climbing the precipices of
Dumbarton. When travelling by coach, Sherman always secured an outside
seat, and, if possible, next to the coachman, so as to be able to make
inquiries regarding everything which he might happen to see.
On our journey from Belfast to Drogheda, Sherman occupied his usual seat
beside the driver, and asked him a thousand questions. The coachman was
a regular wag, with genuine Irish wit, and he determined to have a
little bit of fun at the expense of the inquisitive Yankee. As we came
within eight miles of Drogheda, the watchful eye of Sherman caught the
glimpse of a large stone pile, appearing like a castle, looming up among
some trees in a field half a mile from the roadside.
“Oh, look here! what do you call that?” exclaimed Sherman, giving the
coachman an elbowing in the ribs which was anything but pleasant.
“Faith,” replied the coachman, “you may well ask what we call that, for
divil a call do we know what to call it. That is a castle, sir, beyond
all question the oldest in Ireland; indade, none of the old books nor
journals contain any account of it. It is known, however, that Brian
Borrhoime inhabited it some time, though it is supposed to have been
built centuries before his day.”
“I’ll give you half-a-crown to stop the coach long enough for me to run
and bring a scrap of it away,” said Sherman.
“Sure, and isn’t this the royal mail coach? and I would not dare detain
it for half the Bank of Ireland,” replied the honest coachman.
“How far is it to Drogheda?” inquired Sherman.
“About eight miles, more or less,” answered the coachman.
“Stop your coach, and let me down then,” replied Sherman; “I’ll walk to
Drogheda, and would sooner walk three times the distance than not have a
nearer view, and carry off a portion of the oldest castle in Ireland.”
With that Sherman dismounted, and, raising his umbrella to protect him
from the cold rain which was falling in torrents, he marched off in the
mud, calling out to me that I might expect him in Dublin by the next
train to that which would take us from Drogheda, the railroad being then
completed only to that point from Dublin.
We arrived in Dublin about five o’clock, cold and uncomfortable; but
warm apartments and good fires were in waiting for us, and in a few
hours we had partaken of an excellent supper, and were as happy as
lords. About nine o’clock in the evening, the door of our parlor was
opened, and who should come in but poor Sherman, drenched to the skin
with cold rain,--the legs of his boots pulled over the bottoms of his
pantaloons, and covered with thick mud to the very tops, and himself
looking like a half-famished, weary and frozen traveller.
“For Heaven’s sake, let me get to the fire!” exclaimed Sherman, and we
were too much struck with his suffering appearance not to heed it.
“Well, Sherman,” I remarked, “that must have been a tedious walk for
you,--eight long Irish miles through the rain and mud.”
“I guess you would have thought so if you had walked it yourself,”
replied Sherman, doggedly.
“I hope you have brought away trophies enough from the castle to pay you
for all this trouble,” I continued.
“Oh, curse the castle!” exclaimed Sherman.
“What do you mean by that?” I asked, in astonishment.
“Oh, you need not look surprised,” replied Sherman; “for I have no doubt
that you and that bog-trotting Irish coachman have had fun enough at my
expense before this time.”
I assured him that I positively had not heard the coachman speak on the
subject, and begged him to tell me what had occurred to vex him in this
manner.
“Why, if you don’t already know,” replied Sherman, “I would not have you
know for twenty pounds, for you would be sure to publish it. However,
now your curiosity is excited, you would be certain to find it all out,
if you had to hire a post-chaise, and ride there on purpose; so I may as
well tell you.”
“Do tell me,” I replied, “for I confess my curiosity is excited, and I
am unable to guess why you are so angry; for I know you love to see
castles, and that pleasure you surely have enjoyed, for I caught a
glimpse of one myself.”
“No, you have not seen a castle to-day, nor I either!” exclaimed
Sherman.
“What on earth was it, then?” I asked.
“A thundering old lime-kiln!” exclaimed Sherman; “and I only wish I
could pitch that infernal Irish coachman into it while it was under full
blast!”
It was many a long day before Sherman heard the last of the lime-kiln;
in fact, this trick of the Irish coachman rendered him cautious in
making inquiries of strangers.
One day we rode to Donnybrook, the place so much celebrated for its
fairs and its black eyes; for it would be quite out of character for Pat
to attend a fair without having a flourish of the shillelah, and a
scrimmage which would result in a few broken heads and bloody noses.
Near Donnybrook we saw something on the summit of a hill which appeared
like a round stone tower. It was probably sixty feet in circumference
and twenty-five feet high.
“I would like to know what that is,” said Sherman.
I advised him to inquire of the first coachman that came along, but,
with a forced smile, he declined my advice.
“It can’t be a lime-kiln, at any rate,” continued Sherman; “it must be a
castle of some description.”
The more we looked at it the more mysterious did it appear to us, and
Sherman’s castle-hunting propensities momentarily increased. At last he
exclaimed: “A man who travels with a tongue in his head is a fool if he
don’t use it; and I am not going within a hundred rods of what may be
the greatest curiosity in Ireland, without knowing it.”
With that he turned our horse’s head towards a fine-looking mansion on
our right, where we halted. Sherman jumped from the carriage, opened the
small gate, proceeded up the alley of the lawn fronting the house, and
rang the bell. A servant appeared at the door; but Sherman, knowing the
stupidity of Irish servants, was determined to apply at head-quarters
for the information he so much desired.
“Is your master in?” asked Sherman.
“I will see, sir. What name, if you plaze?”
“A stranger from the United States of America!” replied Sherman.
The servant departed, and in a minute returned and invited Sherman to
enter the parlor. He found the gentleman of the mansion sitting by a
pleasant fire, near which were also his lady and several visitors and
members of the family. Sherman was not troubled with diffidence. Being
seated, he hoped he would be excused for having called without an
invitation; but the fact was, he was an American traveller, desirous of
picking up all important information that might fall in his way.
The gentleman politely replied that no apology was necessary, that he
was most happy to see him, and that any information which he could
impart regarding that or any other portion of the country should be
given with pleasure.
“Thank you,” replied Sherman; “I will not trouble you except on a single
point. I have seen all that is important in Dublin and its vicinity, and
in and about Donnybrook; there is but one thing respecting which I want
information, and that is the stone tower or castle which we see standing
on the hill, about a quarter of a mile south of your house. If you could
give me the name and history of that pile, I shall feel extremely
obliged.”
“Oh, nothing is easier,” replied the gentleman, with a smile. “That
‘pile,’ as you call it, was built some forty years ago by my father; and
it was a lucky ‘pile’ for him, for it was the only windmill in these
parts, and always had plenty to do: but a few years ago a hurricane
carried off the wings of the mill, and ever since that it has stood as
it now does, a memorial of its former usefulness. Is there any other
important information that I can give you?” asked the gentleman, with a
smile.
“Not any,” replied Sherman, rising to depart: “but perhaps I can give
you some; and that is, that Ireland is, beyond all dispute, the meanest
country I ever travelled in. The only two objects worthy of note that I
have seen in all Ireland are a lime-kiln and the foundation for a
windmill!”
Upon resuming his seat in the carriage, Sherman laughed immoderately,
although he evidently felt somewhat chagrined by this second mistake in
searching for ancient castles.
Calling one day in one of the principal hotels in Dublin, I noticed
among the “rules” framed and hung in the coffee-room for the warning,
instruction, or entertainment of the guests of the house, the following:
“No Gambling or Politics will be allowed to _take place_ in this house,
by any parties whatever.”
How politics could “take place” in an Irish hotel, or elsewhere, would
have been a mystery to me, if I did not remember that the “scrimmages”
and rows, which often follow the mere discussion of politics, seemed to
warrant the landlord in classing politics with gambling, or any other
dangerous amusement which might take place in the coffee-room of an
Irish inn.
Speaking of Irishmen, I am reminded of an illustration of ready Irish
wit, which is located on the line of the Boston and Fitchburg Railroad.
Some years ago, the Reverend Thomas Whittemore, a wealthy Universalist
minister, who was a large stockholder in the road, was appointed
president of the company; and, as he was exceedingly conscientious in
the discharge of his duty, he once took upon himself to walk over every
foot of the route, to see if every part of the road was in complete
order. Walking along in this way and alone, he came to a place where a
loose rail lay alongside of the track; and, seeing an Irishman near by,
who was apparently employed on the road, Mr. Whittemore called out to
him:
“Here, Pat, pick up this rail, and lay it alongside of the fence out of
the way, till it is wanted.”
It never occurred to Mr. Whittemore that every man whom he met did not
know him and his official position; but Pat, not dreaming that his
virtual employer, the president of the railroad company, was giving him
an order, sharply answered:
“Jist go to the divil, will ye?”
“My dear friend,” said the smiling Whittemore, who instantly
comprehended “the situation”--that is, that Pat did not know him, and no
particular wonder, either--“‘go to the devil?’ why, that is the last
place I should desire to go to!”
“An’ faith, an’ I think it’s the last place you _will_ be goin’ to,”
responded Pat.
Of railroads and railroad travel and employees I have heard and told no
end of stories; but one of the latest and best, I think, is told of a
man in a town “down East,” who had some difficulty with a conductor, and
vowed that not another cent of his money should ever go into the
treasury of that company.
“But,” said the conductor of the road, “you own property in one place on
the line, and do business in another place, and are obliged to go back
and forth almost every day: how are you going to help paying something
to the company?”
“Oh! hereafter I shall pay my fare to you in the cars,” was the reply.
It may be a joke, but conductors themselves, that is, some of them, are
more or less facetious on the subject of what in the vernacular is known
as “knocking down.” Soon after the conductors on the New York and New
Haven Railroad were put in costume while on duty, and were obliged to
wear a badge bearing the initials of the company, my friend Rev. Dr.
Chapin was accompanying me over the road to my Bridgeport home, when
along came a conductor, whom we both knew well, to collect our fares.
“Ah, I see,” said Dr. Chapin, pointing to the letters on the new badge,
“N. H., N. Y.,--‘Neither Here, Nor Yonder.”
“No,” whispered the conductor confidentially in the Doctor’s ear; “it
means, ‘New House, Next Year.’”
It is scarcely necessary to tell the thousands who know Dr. Chapin that
he is a man of most ready wit, and an inveterate punster. One day, when
we were dining together, I was carving a chicken, which the Doctor
pronounced a “hen-ous offence,” when, having some difficulty with a
tough wing, I exclaimed:
“How shall I get the thing off, anyhow?”
“Pullet,” gravely answered the Doctor.
“Eggsactly,” said I.
Then began what the Doctor called a “battle of the spurs,”--I trying to
“crow” over the Doctor, and he endeavoring to upset my “cackle-ations”;
urging me meanwhile to “scratch away,” till at last I told him, if he
made another pun on that “lay,” he would knock me off the roost.
“Oh, then,” said the Doctor, finally feathering his nest, “Sha’n’t I
clear?!”
An equally fowl pun of the Doctor’s was perpetrated in cold blood, or
rather in very cold water, down at Rockport, Massachusetts. Thither
every summer season were wont to congregate, for their vacation, such
celebrated clergymen as Starr King, Dr. Chapin, and others, mainly for
the fine sea-bathing there. One season Dr. Chapin arrived at least a
fortnight behind the rest; and, when they went down bathing together,
the acclimated visitors pronounced the water to be “delightful,” “just
right,” and so on.
“But isn’t it cold?” asked Dr. Chapin.
“Oh, no,” replied Starr King; “you have only to go down and up twice,
and you are warm enough.”
“Ah, I see how it is,” said Dr. Chapin, who tried the experiment and
came up half frozen; “you are warm after down and up twice? Why, that’s
a pair o’ ducks!”
Fowls naturally suggest the market, and this brings to mind a neighbor
of mine in New York who keeps two things,--a boarding-house, and “bad
hours.” His wife justly suspected him of gambling; but he generally
managed to get in before midnight, and always had money enough in his
pocket to go to market with in the morning. On one occasion, however,
after gambling all night, he did not come home till six o’clock in the
morning, when, after a sound scolding from his wife for staying out all
night and “gambling,” as she insisted, he was sent to market to get
something for breakfast. Returning, he was again berated by his wife for
gambling, he protesting all the while that he had been “spending the
night with a sick friend.”
His wife might have believed him, if he had not sat down at the head of
the table, half asleep, and solemnly passed the bread to the nearest
boarder with the exclamation,--
“Cut!”
“_That’s_ your ‘sick friend!’” exclaimed the wife, while a general roar
around the table woke the host to the fact that he was passing bread,
and not a pack of cards.
This story-telling carries me back to my boyhood days at Bethel, and
brings to mind an old clerical acquaintance whom I knew long before I
met Dr. Chapin. The Rev. Richard Varick Dey, who resided at Greenfield,
Connecticut, was in the habit of coming to Bethel to preach on Sabbath
evenings. He was a very eloquent preacher, and an eccentric man. He
possessed fine talents; his sermons were rich in pathos and wit; and he
was exceedingly popular with the world’s people. The more
straight-laced, however, were afraid of him. His remarks both in and out
of the pulpit would frequently rub hard against some popular dogma, or
knock in the head some favorite religious tenet. Mr. Dey was therefore
frequently in hot water with the church, and was either “suspended,” or
about to be brought to trial for some alleged breach of ministerial
duty, or some suspected heresy. While thus debarred from preaching, he
felt that he must do something to support his family. With this view he
visited Bethel, Danbury, and other towns, and delivered “Lectures,” at
the termination of which, contributions for his benefit were taken up. I
remember his lecturing in Bethel on “Charity.” This discourse overflowed
with eloquence and pathos, and terminated in a contribution of more than
fifty dollars.
It was said that on one occasion Mr. Dey was about to be tried before an
ecclesiastical body at Middletown. There being no railroads in those
days, many persons travelled on horseback. Two days before the trial was
to take place, Mr. Dey started for Middletown alone, and on horseback.
His valise was fastened behind the saddle; and, putting on his large
great-coat surmounted with a half a dozen broad “capes,” as was the
fashion of that period, and donning a broad-brimmed hat, he mounted his
horse and started for the scene of trial.
On the second day of his journey, and some ten miles before reaching
Middletown, he overtook a brother clergyman, also on horseback, who was
wending his way to the Consociation.
He was a man perhaps sixty years of age, and his silvered locks stood
out like porcupine quills. His iron visage, which seemed never to have
worn a smile, his sinister expression, small, keen, selfish-looking
eyes, and compressed lips, convinced Mr. Dey that he had no hope of
mercy from that man as one of his judges. The reverend gentlemen soon
fell into conversation. The sanctimonious clergyman gave his name and
residence, and inquired those of Mr. Dey.
“My name is Mr. Richard,” replied Rev. Richard V. Dey, “and my residence
is Fairfield.” (Greenfield is a parish in the town of Fairfield.)
“Ah,” exclaimed the other clergyman; “then you live near Mr. Dey: do you
know him?”
“Perfectly well,” responded the eccentric Richard.
“Well, what do you think of him?” inquired the anxious brother.
“He is a wide-awake, cunning fellow, one whom I should be sorry to
offend, for I would not like to fall into his clutches; but, if
compelled to do so, I could divulge some things which would astonish our
Consociation.”
“Is it possible? Well, of course your duty to the Church and the
Redeemer’s cause will prompt you to make a clean breast of it, and
divulge everything you know against the accused,” responded the excited
clergyman.
“It is hard to destroy a brother’s reputation and break up the peace of
his family,” answered the meek Mr. Richard.
“It is the duty of the elect to expose and punish the reprobates,”
replied the sturdy Puritan.
“But had I not better first tell our brother his fault, and give him an
opportunity to confess and be forgiven?”
“Our brother, as you call him, is undoubtedly a heretic, and the true
faith is wounded by his presence amongst us. The Church must be purged
from unbelief. We must beware of those who would introduce damnable
heresies.”
“Are you sure that Mr. Dey is an unbeliever?” inquired the modest Mr.
Richard.
“I have heard that he throws doubt upon the Trinity,--shrugs his
shoulders at some portions of the Saybrook Platform, and has said that
even reprobates may sincerely repent, pray for forgiveness, and be
saved; ay, that he even doubts the damnation of unregenerate infants!”
“Horrible!” ejaculated Mr. Richard.
“Yes, horrible indeed! But I trust that our Consociation will
excommunicate him at once and forever. But what do you know concerning
his belief?”
“I know nothing specially against his belief,” responded Mr. Richard;
“but I have witnessed some of his acts, which I should be almost sorry
to expose.”
“A mistaken charity. It is your duty to tell the Consociation all you
know regarding the culprit, and I shall insist upon your doing so.”
“I certainly desire to do that which is right and just; and, as I am but
young in the ministry, I shall defer to your judgment, founded on age
and experience. But I would prefer at first to state to you what I know,
and then will be guided by your advice in regard to giving my testimony
before the Consociation.”
“A very proper course. You can state the facts to me, and I will give
you my counsel. Now what do you know?”
“I know that on more than one occasion I have caught him in the act of
kissing my wife,” replied the injured Mr. Richard.
“I am not at all astonished,” responded the clergyman; “such conduct
coincides exactly with the opinion I had formed of the man. I
commiserate you, sir, but I honor your sense of duty in divulging such
important facts, even at the expense of exposing serious troubles in
your domestic relations. But, sir, justice must have its course. These
facts must be testified to before the Consociation. Do you know anything
else against the delinquent?”
“I know something more; but it is of a nature so delicate, and concerns
me personally so seriously, that I must decline divulging it.”
“Sir, you cannot do that. I will not permit it, but will insist on your
telling the whole truth before our Consociation, though your
heart-strings were to break in consequence. I repeat, sir, that I
sympathize with you personally, but personal feelings must be swallowed
up in the promotion of public good. No sympathy for an individual can be
permitted to clash with the interests of the true Church. You had better
tell me, sir, all you know.”
“Since you say that duty requires it, I will do so. I have caught him,
under very suspicious circumstances, in my wife’s bedroom,” said the
unfortunate Mr. Richard.
“Was your wife in bed?” inquired the man with the iron face.
“She was,” faintly lisped the almost swooning Mr. Richard.
“Enough, enough,” was the response. “Our Consociation will soon dispose
of the Rev. Richard V. Dey.”
The two clergymen had now arrived at Middletown. The Rev. Mr.
Vinegarface rode to the parsonage while Mr. Dey, _alias_ “Mr. Richard,”
went to a small and obscure inn.
The Consociation commenced the next day. This ecclesiastical body was
soon organized, and, after disposing of several minor questions, it was
proposed to take up the charges of heresy against the Rev. Mr. Dey. The
accused, with a most demure countenance, was conversing with his quondam
travelling companion of the day previous, who upon hearing this
proposition instantly sprang to his feet, and informed the reverend
Chairman that providentially he had been put in possession of facts
which must necessarily result in the immediate expulsion of the culprit
from the Church, and save the necessity of examining testimony on the
question of heresy. “In fact,” continued he, “I am prepared to prove
that the Rev. Richard V. Dey has frequently kissed the wife of one of
our brethren, and has also been caught in a situation which affords
strong evidence of his being guilty of the crime of adultery!”
A thrill of horror and surprise ran through the assembly. Every eye was
turned to Mr. Dey, who was seated so closely to the last speaker that he
touched him as he resumed his seat. Mr. Dey’s countenance was as placid
as a May morning, and it required keen vision to detect the lurking
smile of satisfaction that peeped from a corner of his eye. A few
minutes of dead silence elapsed.
“Produce your witnesses,” finally said the Chairman, in an almost
sepulchral voice.
“I call on the Rev. Mr. Richard, of Fairfield, to corroborate under oath
the charges which I have made,” responded the hard-visaged Puritan.
Not a person moved. Mr, Dey looked as unconcerned as if he was an utter
stranger to all present, and understood not the language which they were
speaking.
“Where is the Rev. Mr. Richard?” inquired the venerable Chairman.
“Here he is,” responded the accuser, familiarly tapping Mr. Dey on the
shoulder.
The whole audience burst into such a roar of laughter as probably never
was heard in a like Consociation before.
The accuser was almost petrified with astonishment at such inconceivable
conduct on the part of that sedate religious assembly.
Mr. Dey alone maintained the utmost gravity.
“That, sir, is the Rev. Richard V. Dey,” replied the Chairman, when
order was restored.
The look of utter dismay which instantly marked the countenance of the
accuser threw the assembly into another convulsion of laughter, during
which Mr. Dey’s victim withdrew, and was not seen again in Middletown.
The charges of heresy were then brought forward. After a brief
investigation, they were dismissed for want of proof, and Mr. Dey
returned to Greenfield triumphant.
I have often heard Mr. Dey relate the following anecdote. A young couple
called on him one day at his house in Greenfield. They informed him that
they were from the southern portion of the State, and desired to be
married. They were well dressed, made considerable display of jewelry,
and altogether wore an air of respectability. Mr. Dey felt confident
that all was right, and, calling in several witnesses, he proceeded to
unite them in the holy bonds of wedlock.
After the ceremonies were concluded, Mr. Dey invited the happy pair (as
was usual in those days) to partake of some cake and wine. They thus
spent a social half-hour together, and, on rising to depart, the
bridegroom handed Mr. Dey a twenty-dollar bank note; remarking that this
was the smallest bill he had, but, if he would be so good as to pay
their hotel bill (they had merely dined and fed their horse at the
hotel), he could retain the balance of the money for his services. Mr.
Dey thanked him for his liberality, and went at once to the hotel with
the lady and gentleman, and informed the landlord that he would settle
their bill. They proceeded on their journey, and the next day it was
discovered that the bank-note was a counterfeit, and that Mr. Dey had to
pay nearly three dollars for the privilege of marrying this loving
couple.
The newspapers in various parts of the State subsequently published
facts which showed that the affectionate pair got married in every town
they passed through,--thus paying their expenses and fleecing the
clergymen by means of counterfeits.
One of the deacons of Mr. Dey’s church asked him if he usually kissed
the bride at weddings. “Always,” was the reply.
“How do you manage when the happy pair are negroes?” was the deacon’s
next question. “In all such cases,” replied Mr. Dey, “the duty of
kissing is appointed to the deacons.”
My grandfather was a Universalist, and for various reasons, fancied or
real, he was bitterly opposed to the Presbyterians in doctrinal views,
though personally some of them were his warmest and most intimate
friends. Being much attached to Mr. Dey, he induced that gentleman to
deliver a series of Sunday evening sermons in Bethel; and my grandfather
was not only on all these occasions one of the most prominent and
attentive hearers, but Mr. Dey was always his guest. He would generally
stop over Monday and Tuesday with my grandfather, and, as several of the
most social neighbors were called in, they usually had a jolly time of
it. Occasionally “mine host” would attack Mr. Dey good-naturedly on
theological points, and would generally come off second best; but he
delighted, although vanquished, to repeat the sharp answers with which
Mr. Dey met his objections to the “Confession of Faith.”
One day, when a dozen or more of the neighbors were present, and
enjoying themselves in passing around the bottle, relating anecdotes,
and cracking jokes, my grandfather called out in a loud tone of voice,
which at once arrested the attention of all present:
“Friend Dey, I believe you pretend to believe in foreordination?”
“To be sure I do,” replied Mr. Dey.
“Well, now, suppose I should spit in your face, what would you do?”
inquired my grandfather.
“I hope that is not a supposable case,” responded Mr. Dey, “for I should
probably knock you down.”
“That would be very inconsistent,” replied my grandfather, exultingly;
“for if I spat in your face it would be because it was foreordained I
should do so: why then would you be so unreasonable as to knock me
down?”
“Because it would be foreordained that I should knock you down,” replied
Mr. Dey, with a smile.
The company burst into a laugh, in which my grandfather heartily
joined.
My father, as well as my grandfather, was very fond of a practical joke,
and he lost no occasion which offered for playing off one upon his
friends and neighbors. In addition to his store, tavern, and
freight-wagon business to Norwalk, he kept a small livery-stable; and on
one occasion, a young man named Nelson Beers applied to him for the use
of a horse to ride to Danbury, a distance of three miles. Nelson was an
apprentice to the shoe-making business, nearly out of his time, was not
over-stocked with brains, and lived a mile and a half east of our
village. My father thought that it would be better for Nelson to make
his short journey on foot than to be at the expense of hiring a horse,
but he did not tell him so.
We had an old horse named “Bob.” Having reached an age beyond his teens,
he was turned out in a bog lot near our house to die. He was literally a
“living skeleton,”--much in the same condition of the Yankee’s nag,
which was so weak his owner had to hire his neighbor’s horse to help him
draw his last breath. My father, in reply to Nelson’s application, told
him that the livery horses were all out, and he had none at home except
a famous “race-horse,” which he was keeping in low flesh in order to
have him in proper trim to win a great race soon to come off.
“Oh, do let me have him, Uncle Phile” (my father’s name was Philo; but,
as it was the custom in that region to call everybody uncle, or aunt, or
squire, or deacon, or colonel, or captain, my father’s general title
among his acquaintances was “Uncle Phile”). “I will ride him very
carefully, and not injure him in the least; besides, I will have him
rubbed down and fed in Danbury,” said Nelson Beers.
“He is too valuable an animal to risk in the hands of a young man like
you,” responded my father.
Nelson continued to importune, and my father to play off, until it was
finally agreed that the horse could be had on the condition that he
should in no case be ridden faster than a walk or slow trot, and that he
should be fed four quarts of oats at Danbury.
Nelson started on his Rosinante, looking for all the world as if he was
on a mission to the carrion crows; but he felt every inch a man, for he
fancied himself astride of the greatest race-horse in the country, and
realized that a heavy responsibility was resting on his shoulders, for
the last words of my father to him were: “Now, Nelson, if any accident
should happen to this animal while under your charge, you could not pay
the damage in a lifetime of labor.”
Old “Bob” was duly oated and watered at Danbury, and at the end of
several hours Mr. Beers mounted him and started for Bethel. He concluded
to take the “great pasture” road home, that being the name of a new road
cut through swamps and meadows as a shorter route to our village.
Nelson, for the nonce forgetting his responsibility, probably tried the
speed of his race-horse and soon broke him down. At all events something
occurred to weaken old Bob’s nerves, for he came to a stand-still and
Nelson was forced to dismount. The horse trembled with weakness and
Nelson Beers trembled with fright. A small brook was running through the
bogs at the roadside, and Beers, thinking that perhaps his “race-horse”
needed a drink, led him into the stream. Poor old “Bob” stuck fast in
the mud, and, not having strength to withdraw his feet, quietly closed
his eyes, and, like a patriarch as he was, he dropped into the soft bed
that was awaiting him, and died without a single kick.
No language can describe the consternation of poor Beers. He could not
believe his eyes, and vainly tried to open those of his horse. He placed
his ear at the mouth of poor old Bob, but took it away again in utter
dismay. The breath had ceased.
At last Nelson, groaning as he thought of meeting my father, and
wondering whether eternity added to time would be long enough for him to
earn the value of the horse, took the bridle from the “dead-head,” and
unbuckling the girth, drew off the saddle, placed it on his own back,
and trudged gloomily towards our village.
It was about sundown when my father espied his victim coming up the
street with the saddle and bridle thrown across his shoulders, his face
wearing a look of the most complete despair. My father was certain that
old Bob had departed this life, and he chuckled inwardly and quietly,
but instantly assumed a most serious countenance. Poor Beers approached
more slowly and mournfully than if he was following a dear friend to the
grave.
When he came within hailing distance my father called out, “Why, Beers,
is it possible you have been so careless as to let that race-horse run
away from you?”
“Oh, worse than that,--worse than that, Uncle Phile,” groaned Nelson.
“Worse than that! Then he has been stolen by some judge of valuable
horses. Oh, what a fool I was to intrust him to anybody!” exclaimed my
father, with well-feigned sorrow.
“No, he ain’t stolen, Uncle Phile,” said Nelson.
“Not stolen! Well, I am glad of that, for I shall recover him again;
but where is he? I am afraid you have lamed him.”
“Worse than that,” drawled the unfortunate Nelson.
“Well, what is the matter? where is he? what ails him?” asked my father.
“Oh, I can’t tell you,--I can’t tell you!” said Beers with a groan.
“But you must tell me,” returned my father.
“It will break your heart,” groaned Beers.
“To be sure it will if he is seriously injured,” replied my father; “but
where is he?”
“He is dead!” said Beers, as he nerved himself up for the announcement,
and then, closing his eyes, sank into a chair completely overcome with
fright.
My father groaned in a way that started Nelson to his feet again. All
the sensations of horror, intense agony, and despair were depicted to
the life on my father’s countenance.
“Oh, Uncle Phile, Uncle Phile, don’t be too hard with me; I wouldn’t
have had it happen for all the world,” said Beers.
“You can never recompense me for that horse,” replied my father.
“I know it, I know it, Uncle Phile; I can only work for you as long as I
live, but you shall have my services till you are satisfied after my
apprenticeship is finished,” returned Beers.
After a short time my father became more calm, and, although apparently
not reconciled to his loss, he asked Nelson how much he supposed he
ought to owe him.
“Oh, I don’t know; I am no judge of the value of blood horses, but I
have been told they are worth fortunes sometimes,” replied Beers.
“And mine was one of the best in the world,” said my father, “and in
such perfect condition for running,--all bone and muscle.”
“Oh, yes, I saw that,” said Beers, despondingly, but with a frankness
that showed he did not wish to deny the great claims of the horse and
his owner.
“Well,” said my father, with a sigh, “as I have no desire to go to law
on the subject, we had better try to agree upon the value of the horse.
You may mark on a slip of paper what sum you think you ought to owe me
for him, and I will do the same; we can then compare notes, and see how
far we differ.”
“I will mark,” said Beers, “but, Uncle Phile, don’t be too hard with
me.”
“I will be as easy as I can, and endeavor to make some allowance for
your situation,” said my father; “but, Nelson, when I think how valuable
that horse was, of course I must mark something in the neighborhood of
the amount of cash I could have received for him. I believe, however,
Nelson, that you are an honest young man, and are willing to do what you
think is about right. I therefore wish to caution you not to mark down
one cent more than you really think, under the circumstances, you ought
to pay me when you are able, and for which you are now willing to give
me your note of hand. You will recollect that I told you, when you
applied for the horse, that I did not wish to let him go.”
Nelson gave my father a grateful look, and assented to all he said. At
least a dozen of our joke-loving neighbors were witnessing the scene
with great apparent solemnity. Two slips of paper were prepared; my
father marked on one, and after much hesitation, Beers wrote on the
other.
“Well, let us see what you have marked,” said my father.
“I suppose you will think it is too low,” replied Beers, handing my
father the slip of paper.
“Only three hundred and seventy-five dollars!” exclaimed my father,
reading the paper; “well, there is a pretty specimen of gratitude for
you!”
Nelson was humbled, and could not muster sufficient courage to ask my
father what _he_ had marked. Finally one of our neighbors asked my
father to show his paper--he did so. He had marked, “_Six and a quarter
cents_.” Our neighbor read it aloud, and a shock of mirth ensued, which
fairly lifted Beers to his feet. It was some time before he could
comprehend the joke, and when he became fully aware that no harm was
done, he was the happiest fellow I have ever seen.
I might fill a volume with these reminiscences of my younger days, but
turning once more to my foreign notebooks, I find material there which
seems to claim a place in this story-chapter. I am never tired of
telling and laughing at some of my mishaps and adventures in trying to
use the French language, when I first went abroad. It was no unusual
thing to travel half a day in a “diligence,” or in the cars, with some
Englishman, as I would afterwards discover, both of us doing our best to
make ourselves intelligible to each other in French, till at last, in
despair, one or the other would utter the conventional conundrum:
“_Parlez-vous Anglais?_”
“Why, of course; I am an American” (or an Englishman); and then a mutual
roar would follow.
American, or English, or Dutch French is generally quite a different
thing from “French French.” Thus I could always understand the Dutchmen
who spoke to me in French in Amsterdam, and I may add, they could
perfectly understand me. We spoke the same _patois_. I wrote to my wife,
I remember, from Amsterdam, that I found they spoke much purer French in
that city than in Paris!
Once on arriving in Paris at the station of the Northern Railway, I,
with other passengers, was in the room devoted to the examination of
baggage. Among the rest, was a party consisting of a New York merchant
and his wife, with their daughter, a young lady of eighteen, who was at
once volatile and voluble. Undoubtedly, she had spoken the best
Madison-Avenue school French for five years or more; and with this she
fairly overwhelmed the official interpreter who was present. After
hearing her for full five minutes, the interpreter gravely asked:
“Do you speak English, Miss?”
“Certainly,” was the reply.
“Well, speak English then, if you please, for I can understand your
English better than I can your French.”
I was one evening at the house of my friend, Mr. John Nimmo, in Paris,
and while waiting for him and his family to return from the theatre, was
entertained for an hour or more by two very agreeable young ladies, to
whom I made such reply in French, from time to time, as I could. At last
came the inevitable inquiry as to the capacity of the young ladies in
the English language:
“Why, bless us, Mr. Barnum,” was the reply; “we are Scotch governesses,
who are here in Paris simply to learn French!”
The last time I went from France to England, arriving late at night, I
stopped in Dover, at the hotel nearest the custom-house, so as to look
after my luggage next day. Ringing my bell early in the morning, for
shaving-water, half asleep I called out to the serving-maid for “_l’eau
chaude_.”
“Please, sir,” was the reply, “I do not speak French.”
“Nor I, either,” said I, promptly; “just bring me some hot water, if you
please.”
But some of the English have a queer way of speaking their own language,
and the cockney’s management of what he would call the “haspirate” is
sufficiently familiar. Crowding into Exeter Hall, London, at an
entertainment, one evening, I heard the usher just before me shouting
out seats, as he looked at the checks, in this fashion:
“Letter Ha, first row; letter Hef, sixth row; letter He, fifth row;
letter Hi, ninth row”; and so on. Seeing that my own check was “L,” I
showed it to him, and quietly inquired:
“Where do I go to, usher?”
“You go to Hell,” was the prompt response; which was not intended to be
either profane or impolite.
But I must bring this story-telling chapter--an episode in the narrative
of graver events in my autobiography--to a close, and discourse of
Sea-side Park and Waldemere.
CHAPTER XLVI.
SEA-SIDE PARK.
INTEREST IN PUBLIC IMPROVEMENTS--OLD PARK PROJECTS--OPPOSITION OF
OLD FOGIES--THE SOUND SHORE AT BRIDGEPORT--INACCESSIBLE
PROPERTY--THE EYE OF FAITH--TALKING TO THE FARMERS--REACHING THE
PUBLIC THROUGH THE PAPERS--HOW THE LAND WAS SECURED FOR A GREAT
PLEASURE-GROUND--GIFTS TO THE PEOPLE--OPENING OF SEA-SIDE PARK--THE
MOST BEAUTIFUL GROUND BETWEEN NEW YORK AND BOSTON--MAGNIFICENT
DRIVES--THE ADVANTAGES OF THE LOCATION--MUSIC FOR THE MILLION--BY
THE SEA-SIDE--FUTURE OF THE PARK--A PERPETUAL BLESSING TO
POSTERITY.
From the time when I first settled in Bridgeport and turned my attention
to opening and beautifying new avenues, and doing whatever lay in my
power to extend and improve that charming city, I was exceedingly
anxious that public parks should be established, especially one where
good drive-ways, and an opportunity for the display of the many fine
equipages for which Bridgeport is celebrated, could be afforded. Mr.
Noble and I began the movement by presenting to the city the beautiful
ground in East Bridgeport now known as Washington Park,--a most
attractive promenade and breathing place and a continual resort for
citizens on both sides of the river, particularly in the summer
evenings, when one of the city bands is an additional attraction to the
pleasant spot. Thus our new city was far in advance of Bridgeport proper
in providing a prime necessity for the health and amusement of the
people.
Our park projects in the city date as far back as the
[Illustration: _SEA-SIDE PARK_]
year 1850. At that time, by an arrangement with Deacon David Sherwood,
who lived in Fairfield, a few rods west of the Bridgeport line, and who
owned land adjoining mine, we agreed to throw open a large plot of
ground free to the public, provided State Street, in Bridgeport, was
continued west so as to pass through this land. But a few “old fogies”
through whose land the street would pass, thereby improving their
property thousands of dollars in value, stupidly opposed the project in
the Fairfield town-meeting, and the measure was defeated. Seventeen
years afterwards, in 1867, after a long sleep, these same old fogies
managed to awake, as did the citizens of Fairfield generally, and then
State Street was extended without opposition; but property, to some
extent, had changed hands and had largely increased in value, so that
the chance of having a free park in that locality was forever lost, and
the town was actually obliged to pay Deacon Sherwood for the privilege
of continuing the highway through his land. How many similar
opportunities for benefiting the public and posterity in all coming time
are carelessly thrown away in every town, through the mere stupidity of
mole-eyed land-owners, who stand as stumbling-blocks not only in the way
of public improvements, but directly in opposition to their individual
interests, and thus for scores of years rob the community of the
pleasures to be derived from broad avenues lined with shade-trees and
from open and free public grounds.
Up to the year 1865, the shore of Bridgeport west of the public wharves,
and washed by the waters of Long Island Sound, was inaccessible to
carriages, or even to horsemen, and almost impossible for pedestrianism.
The shore edge in fact was strewn with rocks and boulders, which made
it, like “Jordan” in the song, an exceedingly “hard road to travel.” A
narrow lane reaching down to the shore enabled parties to drive near to
the water for the purpose of clamming, and occasionally bathing; but it
was all claimed as private property by the land proprietors, whose farms
extended down to the water’s edge. On several occasions at low tide, I
endeavored to ride along the shore on horseback for the purpose of
examining “the lay of the land,” in the hope of finding it feasible to
get a public drive along the water’s edge. On one occasion, in 1863, I
succeeded in getting my horse around from the foot of Broad Street in
Bridgeport to a lane over the Fairfield line, a few rods west of
“Iranistan Avenue,” a grand street which I have since opened at my own
expense, and through my own land. From the observations I made that day,
I was satisfied that a most lovely park and public drive might be, and
ought to be opened along the whole water-front as far as the western
boundary line of Bridgeport, and even extending over the Fairfield line.
Foreseeing that in a few years such an improvement would be too late,
and having in mind the failure of the attempt in 1850 to provide a park
for the people of Bridgeport, I immediately began to agitate the subject
in the Bridgeport papers, and also in daily conversations with such of
my fellow-citizens as I thought would take an earnest and immediate
interest in the enterprise. I urged that such an improvement would
increase the taxable value of property in that vicinity many thousands
of dollars, and thus enrich the city treasury; that it would improve the
value of real estate generally in the city; that it would be an
additional attraction to strangers who came to spend the summer with
us, and to those who might be induced from other considerations to make
the city their permanent residence; that the improvement would throw
into market some of the most beautiful building-sites that could be
found anywhere in Connecticut; and I dwelt upon the absurdity, almost
criminality, that a beautiful city like Bridgeport, lying on the shore
of a broad expanse of salt water, should so cage itself in, that not an
inhabitant could approach the beach. With these and like arguments and
entreaties I plied the people day in and day out, till some of them
began to be familiarized with the idea that a public park close upon the
shore of the Sound was at least a possible if not probable thing.
But certain “conservatives,” as they are called, said: “Barnum is a
hair-brained fellow, who thinks he can open and people a New-York
Broadway through a Connecticut wilderness”; and the “old fogies” added:
“Yes, he is trying to start another chestnut-wood fire for the city to
blow forever; but the city or town of Bridgeport will not pay out money
to lay out or to purchase public parks. If people want to see green
grass and trees, they have only to walk or drive half a mile either way
from the city limits, and they will come to farms where they can see
either or both for nothing; and, if they are anxious to see salt water,
and to get a breath of the Sound breeze, they can take boats at the
wharves, and sail or row till they are entirely satisfied.”
Thus talked the conservatives and the “old fogies,” who unhappily, even
if they are in a minority, are always a force in all communities. I soon
saw that it was of no use to expect to get the city to pay for a park.
The next thing was to see if the land could not be procured free of
charge, or at a nominal cost, provided the city would improve and
maintain it as a public park. I approached the farmers who owned the
land lying immediately upon the shore, and tried to convince them that,
if they would give the city free, a deep slip next to the water, to be
used as a public park, it would increase in value the rest of their land
so much as to make it a profitable operation for them. But it was like
beating against the wind. They were not so stupid as to think that they
could become gainers by giving away their property.’ Such trials of
patience as I underwent in a twelvemonth, in the endeavor to carry this
point, few persons who have not undertaken like almost hopeless labor
can comprehend. At last I enlisted the attention of Messrs. Nathaniel
Wheeler, James Loomis, Francis Ives, Frederick Wood, and a few more
gentlemen, and persuaded them to walk with me over the ground, which to
me seemed in every way practicable for a park. These gentlemen, who were
men of taste as well as of enterprise and public spirit, very soon
coincided in my ideas as to the feasibility of the plan and the
advantages of the site; and some of them went with me to talk with the
land-owners, adding their own pleas to the arguments I had already
advanced. At last, after much pressing and persuading, we got the terms
upon which the proprietors would give a portion and sell another portion
of their land which fronted on the water, provided the land thus
disposed of should forever be appropriated to the purposes of a public
park. But unfortunately a part of the land it was desirable to include
was the small Mallett farm, of some thirty acres, then belonging to an
unsettled estate, and neither the administrator nor the heirs could or
would give away a rod of it. But the whole farm was for sale,--and, to
overcome the difficulty in the way of its transfer for the public
benefit, I bought it for about $12,000, and then presented the required
front to the park. I did not want this land or any portion of it for my
own purposes or profit, and I offered a thousand dollars to any one who
would take my place in the transaction; but no one accepted, and I was
quite willing to contribute so much of the land as was needed for so
noble an object. Indeed, besides this, I gave $1,400 towards purchasing
other land and improving the park; and, after months of persistent and
personal effort, I succeeded in raising, by private subscription, the
sum necessary to secure the land needed. This was duly paid for, deeded
to and accepted by the city, and I had the pleasure of naming this new
and great public improvement, “Sea-side Park.”
Public journals are generally exponents of public opinion; and how the
people viewed the new purchase, now their own property, may be judged by
the following extracts from the leading local newspapers, when the land
for the new enterprise was finally secured:
OUR SEA-SIDE PARK.
[_From the “Bridgeport Standard,” August 21, 1865._]
Bridgeport has taken another broad stride of which she may well be
proud. The Sea-side Park is a fixed fact. Yesterday Messrs. P. T.
Barnum, Captain John Brooks, Mr. George Bailey, Captain Burr Knapp,
and Henry Wheeler generously donated to this city sufficient land
for the Park, with the exception of seven or eight acres, which
have been purchased by private subscriptions. Last night the Common
Council appointed excellent Park Commissioners, and work on the
sea-wall and the avenues surrounding the Park will be commenced at
once. Besides securing the most lovely location for a park to be
found between New York and Boston, which for all time will be a
source of pride to our city and State, there is no estimating the
pecuniary advantage which this great improvement will eventually
prove to our citizens. Plans are on foot and enterprises are
agitated in regard to a park hotel, sea-side cottages, horse
railroad branch, and other features, which, when consummated, will
serve to amaze our citizens to think that such a delightful
sea-side frontage has been permitted to lie so long unimproved. To
Mr. P. T. Barnum, we believe, is awarded the credit of originating
this beautiful improvement, and certainly to his untiring,
constant, and persevering personal efforts are we indebted for its
being finally consummated. Hon. James C. Loomis was the first man
who heartily joined with Barnum in pressing the plan of a sea-side
park upon the attention of our citizens, but it is due to our
citizens themselves to say that, with an extraordinary unanimity,
they have not only voted to appropriate $10,000 from the city
treasury to making the avenues around the Park, and otherwise
improving it, but they have also generously aided by private
contributions in purchasing such land as was not freely given for
the Park. Of course, we shall not only, at an early day, publish
the names of such citizens as have subscribed money for this
purpose, but they will also be handed down to posterity, as they
will richly deserve, in the publication of the Park Commissioners.
[_From the “Bridgeport Standard,” August 21, 1865._]
The names of P. T. Barnum, Capt. John Brooks, Mr. George Bailey,
Capt. Burr Knapp and Henry Wheeler have gone into history as the
generous contributors to the best enterprise ever attempted for the
benefit of our city; and the city has accepted the trust with the
most commendable promptness, and appointed its commissioners, who
have already entered upon their duties. We shall watch now with
eager interest the unfolding and development of such a park as can
nowhere be found on either side of the Sound, and one which shall
be “a thing of beauty and a joy forever” to our city.
It needs but the hand of skilful art, assisted by a proper public
spirit, to render the Sea-side Park a charmed spot of delightful
resort for public drives or private walks. The commissioners chosen
to superintend the inauguration of the laying out and improvements
of the grounds are men of correct taste, of good judgment and of
liberal and comprehensive views as to the wants and demands of a
growing city like Bridgeport. They understand that Nature is here
to be made so attractive by Art, that all classes shall be drawn
hither not merely for the pleasure of enjoying a favorite resort
but also for the profit which comes to the nobler impulses of our
nature, by the contemplation of cunning handicraft upon the
landscape, as God left it for man to adorn and beautify. Here will
be planted trees of every variety that will endure the temperature
of this latitude, and flowers of every hue and perfume; here will
walks serpentine through shady groves, and anon lead out to behold
the broad expanse of the beautiful Sound.
Some one has aptly said, that one work of art was worth a thousand
lectures on art. Here, then, let the statues of the artist be
placed, to educate the masses by their silent teachings, and win
them to higher ideas and better views of life by their mute
eloquence. One feature of American parks is especially worthy of
mention: they are essentially and emphatically democratic. They are
made for the people, and are in turn appreciated by the people.
They are open alike to the millionnaire with his coach-and-six, and
the poor pedestrian without a penny. The advantages possessed by
Bridgeport as a manufacturing city are becoming daily more and more
appreciated by business-men from various portions of the country.
There is no city in the State which can compare with ours in the
recent erection of large and permanent manufacturing
establishments. This fact brings into our midst a large industrial
population, for which, even now, the supply of dwellings is
inadequate to the demand. This population, commingling and
combining with our own, and possessing energy, enterprise, business
tact and intelligence, will rapidly develop the resources of our
city and its surroundings for mechanical pursuits, and the
productions of the various manufacturing establishments already
erected, or in process of erection. To such a class, the benefits
of a Park, possessing such facilities for recreation and
improvement as the Sea-side Park will present, will be
incalculable, in fostering the health, promoting the happiness, and
elevating the taste of all who can avail themselves of its
beneficial influences.
To the public-spirited gentlemen who have so generously donated to
the city the land for the Sea-side Park, Bridgeport owes a debt of
gratitude which she can never repay. Their names will descend to
posterity, and be remembered with pride and exultation as among the
noblest of public benefactors, so long as the flowers bloom and the
waves wash the margin of the Sea-side Park. No citizen of
Bridgeport, identified with her growth and prosperity, and having
the future welfare of the city at heart, should fail to contribute,
in such a manner as best he may, to such a grand improvement. Let
our citizens take hold of this noble enterprise with that large and
liberal spirit in which it has been conceived and thus far
consummated, and Bridgeport will ere long possess an attraction
which will draw hither for permanent residence much of the wealth
and intelligence, refinement and virtue of the great metropolis,
which now sequesters itself along the banks of the Hudson, or among
the sand-knolls of New Jersey.
Thus was my long-cherished plan at length fulfilled; nor did my efforts
end here, for I aided and advised in all important matters in the laying
out and progress of the new park; and in July, 1869, I gave to the city
several acres of land, worth at the lowest valuation $5,000, which were
added to and included in this public pleasure-ground, and now make the
west end of the park.
At the beginning, the park on paper and the park in reality were two
quite different things. The inaccessibility of the site was remedied by
approaches which permitted the hundreds of workmen to begin to grade the
grounds, and to lay out the walks and drives. The rocks and boulders
over which I had more than once attempted to make my way on foot and on
horseback were devoted to the building of a substantial sea-wall, under
the able superintendence of Mr. David W. Sherwood. Paths were opened,
shade-trees were planted; and fortunately there was in the very centre
of the ground a beautiful grove of full growth, which is one of the most
attractive features of this now charming spot; and a broad and
magnificent drive follows the curves of the shore and encircles the
entire park. Although work is constantly going on and much remains to be
done, yet a considerable portion of the park presents a finished
appearance: a large covered music-stand has been built; and, on a rising
piece of the ground, a substantial foundation has been built for a
Soldiers’ Monument. The corner-stone of this monument was laid with
impressive ceremonies and a military display, in the presence of a large
concourse of citizens and soldiers, among whom were Major-General Alfred
H. Terry, U. S. A.; Major-General and Governor Joseph H. Hawley;
Adjutant-General Charles T. Stanton; Quartermaster-General Julius S.
Gilman; Surgeon-General Philo G. Rockwell; Paymaster-General William B.
Wooster; Aides-de-Camp and Colonel John H. Burnham, Alford P. Rockwell,
William H. Mallory, Charles M. Coit, General S. W. Kellogg, of the First
Brigade; Colonel S. E. Merwin, jr., Colonel Crawford, and other officers
of the Governor’s staff, and of the Connecticut State Militia.
The branch horse-railroad already reaches one of the main entrances, and
brings down crowds of people every day and evening, and especially on
the evenings in which the band plays. At such times the avenues are not
only thronged with superb equipages and crowds of people, but the whole
harbor is alive with row-boats, sail-boats and yachts. The views on all
sides are charming. In the rear is the city, with its roofs and spires;
Black Rock and Stratford lights are in plain sight; to the eastward and
southward stretches “Old Long Island’s sea-girt shore”; and between lies
the broad expanse of the salt water, with its ever “fresh” breezes, and
the perpetual panorama of sails and steamers. I do not believe that a
million dollars to-day would compensate the city of Bridgeport for the
loss of what is confessed to be the most delightful public
pleasure-ground between New York and Boston.
For these magnificent results, accomplished in so short a time, the
people of Bridgeport are indebted to the park commissioners, and
especially to Mr. Nathaniel Wheeler, whose untiring energy and exquisite
taste have been mainly instrumental in bringing this work forward to its
present state of completion.
There is easy and cheap access to this ground by means of the
horse-railroad from East Bridgeport and Fairfield, and numerous avenues
open directly upon the park from Bridgeport. It is the daily resort of
thousands, who go to inhale the salt sea-air; and the main drive is
already, on a lesser scale, to the citizens of Bridgeport, what the
grand avenue in Central Park is to the people of New York; with this
priceless advantage, however, in favor of Sea-side Park, of a frontage
on the Sound, and a shore on which the waves are ever breaking, and
sounding the grand, unending story of the mysteries of the great deep.
On the western and northern margins of this public ground, in sight of
the Sound and in full view of every part of the park, will hereafter be
built the villas and mansions of the wealthiest citizens, and, when the
hand that now pens these lines is stilled forever, and thousands look
from these sea-side residences across the water to Long-Island shore,
and over the groves and lawns and walks and drives of the beautiful
ground at their feet, it may be a source of gratification and pride to
my posterity to hear the expressions of gratitude that possibly will be
expressed to the memory of their ancestor who secured to all future
generations the benefits and blessings of Sea-side Park.
CHAPTER XLVII.
WALDEMERE.
MY PRIVATE LIFE--PLANS FOR THE PUBLIC BENEFIT IN
BRIDGEPORT--OPENING AVENUES--PLANTING SHADE-TREES--OLD
FOGIES--CONSERVATISM A CURSE TO CITIES--BENEFITING BARNUM’S
PROPERTY--SALE OF LINDENCROFT--LIVING IN A FARM-HOUSE--BY THE
SEA-SHORE--ANOTHER NEW HOME--WALDEMERE--HOW IT CAME TO BE
BUILT--MAGIC AND MONEY--WAVEWOOD AND THE PETREL’S NEST--MY
FARM--THE HOLLAND BLANKET CATTLE--MY CITY RESIDENCE--COMFORTS OF
CITY LIFE--BEGGING LETTERS--MY FAMILY--RELIGIOUS REFLECTIONS--MY
FIFTY-NINTH BIRTHDAY--THE END OF THE RECORD.
What I can call, without undue display of egotism or vanity, my “public
life,” may be said to have closed with my formal and final retirement
from the managerial profession, when my second Museum was destroyed by
fire, March 3, 1868. But he must have been a careless reader of these
pages, which record the acts and aspirations of a long and industrious
career, who does not see that what, in opposition to my “public life,”
may be considered my “private life,” has also been largely devoted to
the comfort, convenience, and permanent prosperity of the community with
which so many of my hopes and happiest days are thoroughly identified. I
speak of these things, I trust, with becoming modesty, and yet with less
reluctance than I should do, if my fellow-citizens of Bridgeport had not
generally and generously awarded me sometimes, perhaps, more than my
need of praise for my unremitting and earnest efforts to
[Illustration: _WALDEMERE._]
promote whatever would conduce to the growth and improvement of our
charming city.
When I first selected Bridgeport as a permanent residence for my family,
its nearness to New York and the facilities for daily transit to and
from the metropolis were present and partial considerations only in the
general advantages the location seemed to offer. Nowhere, in all my
travels in America and abroad, had I seen a city whose very position
presented so many and varied attractions. Situated on Long Island Sound,
with that vast water-view in front, and on every other side a beautiful
and fertile country with every variety of inland scenery, and charming
drives which led through valleys rich with well-cultivated farms, and
over hills thick-wooded with far-stretching forests of primeval
growth,--all these natural attractions appeared to me only so many aids
to the advancement the beautiful and busy city might attain, if
public-spirit, enterprise, and money grasped and improved the
opportunities the locality itself extended. I saw that what Nature had
so freely lavished must be supplemented by yet more liberal Art.
Consequently, and quite naturally, when I projected and established my
first residence in Bridgeport, I was exceedingly desirous that all the
surroundings of Iranistan should accord with the beauty and completeness
of that place. I was never a victim to that mania which possesses many
men of even moderate means to “own everything that joins them,” and I
knew that Iranistan would so increase the value of surrounding property
that none but first-class residences would be possible in the vicinity.
But there was other work to do, which, while affording advantageous
approaches to my property, would at the same time be a lasting benefit
to the public; and so I opened Iranistan Avenue, and other broad and
beautiful streets, through land which I freely purchased and as freely
gave to the public, and these highways are now the most convenient as
well as charming in the city.
To have opened all these new avenues, in their entire length, at my own
cost, and through my own ground, would have required a confirmation of
Miss Lavinia Warren’s opinion, that what little of the city of
Bridgeport and the adjacent town of Fairfield was not owned by General
Tom Thumb, belonged to P. T. Barnum. It is true that, apart from my East
Bridgeport property, I became a very large owner of real estate on the
other side of the river, in Bridgeport proper and in Fairfield, my
purchases in Fairfield lying on and so near to the boundary
line--Division Street--as virtually to be in Bridgeport. Everywhere
through my own lands I laid out and threw open to the public, streets of
the generous width which distinguished the old “King’s roads” in the
colonies, before grasping farmers and others encroached upon, and fenced
in as private property, land that really belonged to the public forever;
and on both sides of every avenue I laid out and planted a profusion of
elms and other trees. In this way, I have opened miles of new streets,
and have planted thousands of shade-trees in Bridgeport; for I think
there is much wisdom in the advice of the Laird of Dumbiedikes, in
Scott’s “Heart of Mid-Lothian,” who sensibly says: “When ye hae naething
else to do, ye may be aye sticking in a tree; it will be growing when
ye’re sleeping.” But, in establishing new streets, too often, when I had
gone through my own land, the project came literally to an end; some
“old fogy” blocked the way,--my way, his own way, and the highway,--and
all I could do would be to jump over his field, and continue my new
street through land I might own on the other side, till I reached the
desired terminus in the end or continuation of some other street; or
till, unhappily, I came to a dead stand-still at the ground of some
other “old fogy,” who, like the original owners of what is now the
shore-front of Sea-side Park, “did not believe there was money to be
made by giving away their property.”
And this is the manner in which these old fogies talked: “We don’t
believe in these improvements of Barnum’s. What’s the use of them? We
can get to the city by the old road or street, as we have done for forty
years. The new street will cut the pasture or mowing-lot in two, and
make a checkerboard of the farm. It was bad enough to have the railroad
go through, and we would have prevented that if we could; but this new
street business is all bosh!” And then, singularly enough, every old
fogy would wind up with: “I declare, I believe the whole thing is only
to benefit Barnum, so that he can sell land, which he bought anywhere
from sixty to two hundred dollars an acre, at the rate of five thousand
dollars an acre in building-lots, as he is actually doing to-day.”
It is strange indeed that these men, who could see the benefit to
“Barnum’s property” by opening new streets which would immediately
convert cheap farm and pasture land into choice and high-priced
building-lots, should not see that precisely the same thing would
proportionately increase the value of their own property. Conservatism
may be a good thing in the state, or in the church, but it is fatal to
the growth of cities; and the conservative notions of old fogies make
them indifferent to the requirements which a very few years in the
future will compel, and blind to their own best interests. Such men
never look beyond the length of their noses, and consider every
investment a dead loss unless they can get the sixpence profit into
their pockets before they go to bed. My own long training and experience
as a manager impelled me to carry into such private enterprises as the
purchase of real estate that best and most essential managerial quality
of instantly deciding, not only whether a venture was worth undertaking,
but what, all things considered, that venture would result in. Almost
any man can see how a thing will begin, but not every man is gifted with
the foresight to see how it will end, or how, with the proper effort, it
may be made to end. In East Bridgeport, where we had no “conservatives”
to contend with, we were only a few years in turning almost tenantless
farms into a populous and prosperous city. On the other side of the
river, while the opening of new avenues, the planting of shade-trees,
and the building of many houses, have afforded me the highest pleasures
of my life, I confess that not a few of my greatest annoyances have been
occasioned by the opposition of those who seem to be content to simply
vegetate through their existence, and who looked upon me as a restless,
reckless innovator, because I was trying to remove the moss from
everything around them, and even from their own eyes.
In the summer of 1867, the health of my wife continuing to decline, her
physician directed that she should remove nearer to the sea-shore; and,
as she felt that the care of a large establishment like Lindencroft was
more than she could bear, I sold that place. I have already spoken of my
building of this residence. It was emphatically a labor of love. All
that taste and money could do was fairly lavished upon Lindencroft; so
that, when all was finished, it was not only a complete house in all
respects, but it was a perfect home. And a home I meant it to be, in
every and the best sense of the word, for my declining years.
Consequently, from basement to attic, everything was constructed, by
days’ work, in the most perfect manner possible. Convenience and comfort
were first consulted, and thereafter, with no attempt at ostentation,
elegance, pure and simple, predominated and permeated everywhere. No
first-class house in the metropolis was more replete with all that goes
to constitute a complete dwelling-place. Under this new roof I gathered
my library, my pictures, my souvenirs of travel in other lands, and
assembled my household “gods”; while the surrounding grounds, adorned
with statuary and fountains, displayed also, in the walks, the arbors,
the lawns, the garden, the piled-up rocks even, the profusion of trees
and shrubbery, and the wealth of rare and beautiful flowers, my wife’s
exquisite taste, which in times past had made the grounds of our loved
and lost Iranistan so celebrated as well as charming. It was hard indeed
to tear ourselves from this fascinating spot, but there are times when
even the charms of home must be sacrificed to the claims of health.
Lindencroft was sold July 1, 1867, and we immediately removed for a
summer’s sojourn to a small farm-house adjoining Sea-side Park. During
the hot days of the next three months we found the delightful sea-breeze
so bracing and refreshing that the season passed like a happy dream, and
we resolved that our future summers should be spent on the very shore of
Long Island Sound. I did not, however, perfect my arrangements in time
to prepare my own summer residence for the ensuing season; and during
the hot months of 1868 we resided in a new and very pretty house I had
just completed on State Street, in Bridgeport, and which I subsequently
sold, as I intended doing when I built it. But, towards the end of the
summer, I added by purchase to the Mallett farm, adjoining Sea-side
Park, a large and beautiful hickory grove, which seemed to be all that
was needed to make the site exactly what I desired for a summer
residence. It will be remembered that I bought this Mallett farm, not
for myself, but so that a portion of it could be devoted to the public
park; and, a generous slice having been thus given away, there were
several acres remaining which were admirably adapted to one or more
residences, and the purchase of the grove property made the location
nearly perfect.
But there was a vast deal to do in grading and preparing the ground, in
opening new streets and avenues as approaches to the property, and in
setting out trees near the proposed site of the house; so that ground
was not broken for the foundation till October. I planned a house which
should combine the greatest convenience with the highest comfort,
keeping in mind always that houses are made to live in as well as to
look at, and to be “homes” rather than mere residences. So the house was
made to include abundant room for guests, with dressing-rooms and baths
to every chamber; water from the city throughout the premises; gas,
manufactured on my own ground; and that greatest of all comforts, a
semi-detached kitchen, so that the smell as well as the secrets of the
cuisine might be confined to its own locality. The stables and gardens
were located far from the mansion, on the opposite side of one of the
newly opened avenues, so that in the immediate vicinity of the house, on
either side and before both fronts, stretched large lawns, broken only
by the grove, single shade-trees, rock-work, walks, flower-beds and
drives. The whole scheme as planned was faithfully carried out in less
than eight months. The first foundation stone was laid in October, 1868;
and we moved into the completed house in June following, in 1869.
It required a regiment of faithful laborers and mechanics, and a very
considerable expenditure of money, to accomplish so much in so short a
space of time. Those who saw a comparatively barren waste thus suddenly
converted to a blooming garden, and, by the successful transplanting and
judicious placing of very large and full-grown forest trees, made to
seem like a long-settled place, considered the creation of my new summer
home almost a work of magic; but there is no magic when determination
and dollars combine to achieve a work. When we moved into this new
residence, we formally christened the place “Waldemere,”--literally, but
not so euphoniously, “Waldammeer,” “Woods-by-the-Sea,”--for I preferred
to give this native child of my own conception an American name of my
own creation.
On the same estate, and fronting the new avenue I opened between my own
property and the public park, I built at the same time two beautiful
cottages, one of which is known as the “Petrel’s Nest,” and the other,
occupied by my eldest daughter, Mrs. Thompson, and my youngest daughter,
Mrs. Seeley, as a summer residence, is called “Wavewood.” From the east
front of Waldemere, across the sloping lawn, and through the reaches of
the grove, these cottages are in sight, and before the three residences
stretches the broad Sound, with nothing to cut off the view, and
nothing intervening but the western portion of Sea-side Park. Sea-side
and sea-breezes, however, do not include the sum of rural felicities in
summer; and so I still keep possession of the fine farm which, years
ago, was the scene of the elephant-plowing feats. On this property,
which is in charge of a judicious farmer, I have some very fine imported
stock, including several head of the celebrated white-blanket “Dutch
cattle,” which excite the curiosity and attract the attention of all who
see them. These cattle are black, with a distinctly defined white
“blanket” around their bodies, giving them a very unique appearance; and
when they struck my fancy in Holland, some years ago, I imported several
of them: nor is their singular appearance their best recommendation, for
they are excellent milkers, and my dairy and farm products keep my table
constantly supplied with fresh fruits and vegetables, poultry, and that
choicest of country luxuries, pure cream.
Amid such comforts, advantages, and luxuries the summer months speed
swiftly and sweetly by. My well-supplied stables afford the means of
enjoying the numberless delightful drives which abound in the vicinity;
and my salt-water-loving friend, Mr. George A. Wells, is always ready to
minister to the pleasure of myself or my guests by tendering the use of
anything in his Sound fleet, from a row-boat to a yacht. The five months
in the year which I devote to rural rest seem all too short for the
enjoyment which is necessarily compressed in the twenty weeks. But I can
feel at the end of the season that it is a consolidation as well as
compression, not only of pleasure, but of capital, in the way of health
and vigor for the winter’s campaign of city living and metropolitan
excitement.
For, at my time of life, and especially for a man who has had so much to
do with the metropolitan million as I have done, I am convinced that the
city is the most congenial residence during the cooler season of the
year. No matter how active may have been one’s life, as a man grows
older, if he does not become a little lazy, he at least learns to crave
for comfortable ease and seeks for quiet. To such a man, the city in
winter extends numberless pleasures. There is a sense of satisfaction
even in the well-cleared sidewalks after a snow-storm, and an almost
selfish happiness in looking out upon a storm from a well-warmed library
or parlor window. One loves to find the morning papers, fresh from the
press, lying upon the breakfast-table; and the city is the centre of
attractions in the way of operas, concerts, picture-galleries,
libraries, the best music, the best preaching, the best of everything in
æsthetical enjoyments. Having made up my mind to spend seven months of
every year in the city, in the summer of 1867 I purchased the elegant
and most eligibly situated mansion, No. 438 Fifth Avenue, corner of
Thirty-ninth Street, at the crowning point of Murray Hill, in New York,
and moved into it in November. My residence therein in the winter season
has fully confirmed my impressions in its favor. The house is replete
with all that can constitute a pleasant home, and the location is so
near to Central Park that we spend hours of every fine day in that great
pleasure-ground. While I am in town, it is scarcely more than once or
twice a week that I take pains to ascertain by personal observation that
I am living on the edge of a toiling, excited city of a million
inhabitants. My pecuniary interests in Connecticut and in New York
occupy my attention sufficiently to keep me from _ennui_, and an
extended correspondence--for which I do not yet feel the need of a
private secretary--employs an hour or more of every day. I have had
letters from New Zealand, and other remote quarters of the globe,
respecting curiosities, and addressed simply to “Mr. Barnum, America,”
and the post-office officials, knowing of no other Barnum who would be
likely to receive letters from such out-of-the-way places, regularly put
these vaguely addressed letters in my New York box.
Yet I suppose that not less than two-thirds of all the letters I receive
are earnest petitions for pecuniary aid. This begging-letter business
began to persecute me as long ago as the time of the Jenny Lind
engagement, and even before. Many of these letters ask money as a free
gift, and some of them demand assistance; while others request temporary
loans, or invite me to furnish the capital for enterprises which are
certain to bring the richest returns to all concerned therein. When I
was travelling with Jenny Lind, I received a letter from a woman in
Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, who informed me that she had named her
just-born boy-and-girl twins “P. T. Barnum” and “Jenny Lind,” coolly
adding that we might send $5,000 for their immediate wants, and make
such provision for their future education and support as might be
determined upon at the proper time! In some of these letters, the
amusement afforded by the orthography and grammar was almost a
compensation for the annoyance and impudence of the requests. One very
bad speller, referring me to a former employer of the letter-writer,
wrote: “I Can rePhurr you too Him”; another, urging his petition,
declared; “god Nose I am Poore”; and not long ago I received a
communication from an old man who claimed to be too decrepid to earn a
support, but he urged that he was a religious man, and added: “I tak
grait pleshur in Readin my bibel, speshily the Proffits”; and it did
look a little as if he had a sharp eye to the “Proffits.”
I have said but little in these pages of the immediate circle which is
nearest and dearest to me. My wife, with whom I have lived so many happy
years, and who has been my support in adversity and my solace in
prosperity, still survives. Our children are all daughters: Caroline C.,
the eldest, was married to Mr. David W. Thompson, October 19, 1852;
Helen M., my second daughter, was married to Mr. Samuel H. Hurd, October
20, 1857; Frances J., the third daughter, was born May 1, 1842, and died
April 11, 1844; and Pauline T., the fourth daughter, was married on her
birthday, March 1, 1866, to Mr. Nathan Seeley. For my eldest daughter I
built and furnished a beautiful house on ground near Iranistan, and she
moved into it immediately after her marriage, though of late years she
has resided in New-York in winter and in Bridgeport in summer. For Helen
and Pauline, I bought and furnished handsome houses in Lexington Avenue,
in New-York, within a short distance of my own city residence in Fifth
Avenue. A fine young rising generation of my grandchildren is growing up
around them and me.
I have written as little as might be, too, about my religious principles
and profession, because I agree with the man who, in answer to the
pressing inquiry, declared that he had “no religion to _speak_ of”; and
I believe with him that true religion is more a matter of work than of
words. When I am in the city, I regularly attend the services and
preaching of the Rev. Dr. E. H. Chapin, and I usually go to the
meetings of the same denomination in Bridgeport. “He builds too low who
builds beneath the skies”; and I can truly say that I have always felt
my entire dependence upon Him who is the dispenser of all adversity, as
well as the giver of all good. With a natural proclivity to look upon
the bright side of things, I am sure that under some of the burdens--the
Jerome entanglement, for instance--which have borne so heavily upon me,
I should have been tempted, as others have been, to suicide, if I had
supposed that my troubles were brought upon me by mere blind chance. I
knew that I deserved what I received; I had placed too much confidence
in mere money and my own personal efforts; I was too much concerned in
material prosperity; and I felt that the blow was wisely intended for my
ultimate benefit,--a chastening, which, like the husks to the prodigal
son, should cause me to “come to myself,” and teach me the lesson that
there is something infinitely better than money or position or worldly
prosperity in our “Father’s house.”
And I should be ungrateful indeed, if on my birthday, this fifth of
July, 1869, when I enter upon my sixtieth year in full health and vigor,
with the possibility of many happy days to come, I did not reverently
recognize the beneficent Hand that has crowned me with so many comforts,
and surrounded me with so many blessings. It is on this day, in my own
beautiful home of Waldemere, that I write these concluding lines, which
record a long and busy career, with the sincere hope that my
experiences, if not my example, will benefit my fellow-men.
(844th page, including engravings.)
APPENDIX.
REST ONLY FOUND IN ACTION.
A NEW EXPERIENCE--“DOING NOTHING” A FAILURE--EXCITEMENT
DEMANDED-VISIT OF ENGLISH FRIENDS--I SHOW THEM OUR COUNTRY--NIAGARA
FALLS--WE VISIT CUBA--NEW ORLEANS--MAMMOTH
CAVE--WASHINGTON--“CASTLE THUNDER”--TRIP TO CALIFORNIA--SALT LAKE
CITY--I OFFER BRIGHAM YOUNG TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND DOLLARS TO “SHOW”
HIM “DOWN EAST”--AM “INTERVIEWED” AT SACRAMENTO AND SAN
FRANCISCO--THE CHINESE--SEA LIONS--THE GEYSERS--MARIPOSA--THE BIG
TREES--INSPIRATION POINT--YOSEMITE VALLEY--THE REMARKABLE TOWN OF
GREELEY, IN COLORADO--QUEBEC--SAGINAW RIVER--SARATOGA--ALICE
CARY--WILD BUFFALO HUNT IN KANSAS--MY GREAT TRAVELLING SHOW--THE
WINTER EXHIBITION IN NEW YORK--THE EMPIRE RINK--SUCCESS OF THE
SHOW--OPINIONS OF THE PRESS--CURIOSITIES FROM CALIFORNIA--MY
IMITATORS--ATTEMPTS TO DECEIVE AND SWINDLE THE PUBLIC.
Every one knows the story of the Emperor Charles the Fifth. His ambition
gratified to satiety in the conquest of kingdoms, and the firm
establishment of his empire, he craved rest. He abdicated his throne,
“retired from business,” content to live on his laurels in the peaceful
shades of the Cloister at Yustee. The tradition is that here he forgot
the world without, withdrew in thought as in person from the cares and
turmoils of state, and found rest and cheerfulness by alternating his
devotions with the tinkering of clocks. Perhaps every one is not so
familiar with the somewhat recent correction by Mr. Stirling of this
romantic story. In fact, the Emperor was never so restless as when he
was taking rest; was never so full of the perplexities of empire as
when, in “due form,” he had shaken them off. In the Cloister he was the
same man that he was in the Camp and the Court, and when he sought to
repress his energies, they simply tormented him.
Not denying that my egotism is equal to a good deal, I must beg my
readers not to suppose that I assume for my own history a very extended
similarity to that of the greatest monarch of his time. In fact, the
points of difference are quite as striking as those of resemblance. It
is true, we both tried the “clock business;” but I must claim that my
tinkering in that way throws that of the Emperor entirely in the shade.
I was not, however, fool enough to go into a cloister. Let not an
illustration any more than a parable “run on all fours.” But I want a
royal illustration; and the history of Charles the Fifth, in the
particular of abdicating for rest, I find very pertinent to my own
experience. I took a formal, and as I then supposed, a last adieu of my
readers on my fifty-ninth birth-day. I was, as I had flattered myself,
through with travel, with adventure, and with business, save so far as
the care of my competence would require my attention. My book closed
without a suspicion that in any subsequent edition “more of the same
sort” would make possible an ADDITIONAL CHAPTER. It is with a sense of
surprise, and withal a feeling akin to the ludicrous, that in this new
edition, I cannot bring my career up to my sixty-second year, without
filling a few more pages, in their contents not unlike in kind to those
which make the bulk of my book.
As stated on page 768, my final retirement from the managerial
profession closed with the destruction of my Museum by fire, March 3,
1868. But when I wrote that sentence I had not learned by a three years’
cessation of business, how utterly fruitless it is to attempt to chain
down energies which are peculiar to my nature. No man not similarly
situated can imagine the _ennui_ which seizes such a nature after it has
lain dormant for a few months. Having “nothing to do,” I thought at
first was a very pleasant, as it was to me an entirely new sensation.
“I would like to call on you in the summer, if you have any leisure, in
Bridgeport,” said an old friend.
“I am a man of leisure and thankful that I have nothing to do; so you
cannot call amiss,” I replied with an immense degree of
self-satisfaction.
“Where is your office down-town when you live in New York?” asked
another friend.
“I have no office,” I proudly replied. “I have done work enough, and
shall play the rest of my life. I don’t go down-town once a week; but I
ride in the Park every day, and am at home much of my time.”