Crochet Ribbons for Underwear Beadings.
A very pretty and economical substitute for the silk lingerie ribbon
is found in the new crochet ribbons for this purpose. Fine mercerised
cotton, or crochet silk thread is used with a fine hook.
[Illustration: The above illustration shows ribbons No. 1, 2, 3 and 4.]
No. 1.
12 ch, turn, miss next ch, 5 d c into next 5 ch, 3 d c into next ch, 5
d c into last 5 ch, * turn with 1 ch, miss 1st d c, 5 d c into next 5 d
c, 3 d c into next d c (that is the centre d c of the 3 d c into 1 ch),
5 d c into next 5 d c, miss last d c, and repeat from *.
No. 2.
This is a corded design, and is worked over a single stout cotton
thread, such as No. 10. Form a knot on the end of the No. 10 cotton,
over the cord put 8 d c, keep the cord gently pulled, to have the
stitches close together and the line perfectly straight. Turn, miss
1st 3 d c, 15 d c over the cord into the 15 d c *, 3 d c over the cord
alone, 15 d c into the 15 d c; * repeat.
No. 3.
11 ch, turn, miss 1st ch, 1 d c into next ch, 3 ch, 2 tr into same ch
as last d c, 1 d c into next 3rd ch, 3 ch, 2 tr into same ch, 1 d c
into next 3rd ch, 3 ch, 2 tr into same ch, 1 d c into last ch, * turn,
1 ch, 1 d c into last d c, 3 ch, 2 tr into same d c, 1 d c, 3 ch, 2 tr
over each 3 ch except the last, where you put only the 1 d c; repeat
from *.
No. 4.
13 ch, 1 tr into the 10th ch, over the tr put 1 d c, 4 tr, 1 tr into
the 7th ch, over the tr put 1 d c, 4 tr, 1 tr into the 4th ch, over the
tr 1 d c, 4 tr, 1 tr into the 1st ch, * turn, 4 ch, 1 tr into the space
between the groups of tr with 1 d c, 4 tr over each, 1 tr over the 4
ch, at the turning 1 d c, 4 tr over this tr; * repeat.
No. 5.
14 ch, 1 d c into the 11th ch, 3 ch, 1 d c into every 2nd ch, * turn, 4
ch, 1 d c, 3 ch into each loop; * repeat.
[Sidenote: Designs that will wear well.]
No. 6.
10 ch, turn, 3 long tr into the 5th ch, retaining last loop of each
on the hook until working off the 3rd, then work off all the loops
together, and put 1 d c around the top, 3 ch, 3 long tr into same ch as
last trs, 3 long tr into 1st ch, 3 ch, 3 long tr into same ch, 1 long
tr beside last group, turn, * 5 ch, two groups of long trs with 3 ch
between into each 3 ch space, 1 long tr between last trs and following
chs; * repeat.
No. 7.
13 ch; into the 10th and 7th, 4th and 1st ch put 2 tr with 2 ch
between, 1 tr beside last tr, * turn, 3 ch, into each 2 ch space put 2
tr with 2 ch between, 1 tr between last tr and next chs; * repeat.
No. 8.
15 ch, turn, into the 10th ch put 1 d c, 5 ch, 1 d c, 3 ch, into the
7th ch, 1 d c, 5 ch, 1 d c, 3 ch, into the 4th ch, 1 d c, 5 ch, 1 d c,
3 ch, 1 d c into the 1st ch, * turn, 5 ch, into each picot 1 d c, 5
ch, 1 d c, 3 ch between the picots, 3 ch, 1 d c into the 3rd ch at the
turning; * repeat.
The illustrations show the actual size of the crochet ribbons, so
the worker can easily gauge what width pattern she wishes to work.
These are so varied in design as to give plenty of choice. If a firm,
close pattern is preferred, either No. 1 or No. 2 would be suitable,
the latter being particularly strong, the padding cord giving extra
durability.
For an easily and quickly worked pattern, it would be difficult to find
anything to beat design No. 5. This has the very even flat appearance,
which renders it particularly suitable for ribbon purposes. Similar in
appearance, though somewhat different in the working, is No. 7.
No. 8 is a very lacy pattern, particularly suitable for finer kinds of
underwear.
[Illustration: Above are shown ribbons 5, 6, 7 and 8.]
These crochet ribbons will launder excellently.
Bead Fancies.
The fashion of the present day runs towards beads in every colour and
design, and although the making of beads is not exactly a needlework
economy, it is a dress economy, and that is very nearly related to
needlework.
I have been very successful in making all sorts of articles for
ornamentation—from beads, sealing-wax, broken china, a little
gold paint and some glue, not to mention a little grease and a
knitting-needle.
I began my home-made bead-making from necessity, because I was unable
to find any beads to match a particular frock I very much wanted a
string for. Also, in hunting everywhere for them, I found that the
really artistic and barbaric ones ran into a great deal of money,
especially if they were large.
Now I wanted an odd shade of blue, which was really no shade at all,
because the material was old and had faded to the beautiful tint which
it now possesses. I could not procure any that were even remotely like
it, and so my idea of making some for myself was born.
To begin with, I bought for sixpence a large box of assorted beads,
such as are sold for children to string at kindergarten.
Sealing-wax is an Essential.
At a stationer’s I bought up a whole lot of broken sealing-wax for a
very little money, purchasing at the same time two good sticks, one of
gold and one of silver. These I carried home and sorted as best I could
into shades of different colouring.
You will be surprised to find what a lot of different tones there are
to be had in sealing-wax, though, when buying, be careful not to be
taken in by the outside of the stick! I bought what I thought was a
beautiful shade of lavender, but fortunately was told by the assistant
that it was really a dark blue, which had been in the window and faded!
Blues will often fade mauve, and reds will become pink. But you will
easily avoid mistakes by looking at the box which gives a description
of its contents.
Broken China the next Requisite.
Having secured what I wanted at the stationer’s, I next looked through
the china pantry and kitchen cupboards to see what I could find in the
way of broken china and glass.
I turned out quite a nice little heap from here, and then went to the
tool-house, where I had a little store, which I had dug up out of the
garden.
I never can understand where all the broken china comes from which is
always to be found in every garden when the earth is turned up. I have
a small basket full of all sorts, of odd pieces in bright blues, reds,
and yellows, which appear to be chips from plates or saucers. I should
think it would take a generation of families, and their tea, dinner and
breakfast services, to account for the quantity and colouring I have by
me.
All this china I washed carefully in soapy water, rinsing in very hot
clear water, and drying whilst still hot. By this means the china and
glass keeps its shine, and if set in the sun for a little while it will
greatly improve the lustre.
Next I sorted the colours, and then, with the aid of a wooden hammer
and a piece of felt, I cracked the china into tiny pieces. Be careful
in doing this to put the coloured side of the china downwards, and lay
on a piece of felt, with another piece on top. Hit gently, but firmly,
and where the piece is cracked insert a nail or strong pin in the crack
and hit with the hammer. The cracks will split and will leave a nice
edge, which is very useful for sticking in the sealing-wax. Break the
pieces as small as possible, but leaving the colour to show on one
side. If you smash at the pieces they will powder and be of no use at
all.
[Illustration: A Diagram for working the cross-stitch design on the Bag
illustrated on page 107.