Patchwork Quilts.
That useful branch of oldtime needlework, the patchwork quilt, has been
revived, and this revival is due to the exigency of economy during
war-time. The price of all kinds of materials being so very high, and
the need for economy so great, have led to many useful devices, in
order to maintain a reasonable amount of comfort during these trying
times, and not the least of these is the patchwork quilt.
[Illustration: To form the sides of the padded quilt illustrated on the
next page.]
The smallest scraps of cotton, silk, or other material can be utilised
and made into coverings, which in many cases may be made very artistic,
and durable. In order to carry out the colour scheme of the bedroom for
which it is intended, it is necessary to combine only those colours
which are found in the other furnishings.
The usual size of a quilt for a double bed is 6 ft. by 5 ft., or if the
bed be very large, 6 ft. by 6 ft. The single bed size is 5 ft. by 4 ft.
For a child’s cot, 4 ft. by 3 ft. is the average size.
[Illustration: A simple pattern showing triangles in three colours.]
Many of the more artistic kind are made up into bedspread size, which
is longer than the quilt, and allows for a fall over each side. The
size of a bedspread is usually from 72 to 90 inches, by from 90 to 100
inches.
[Illustration: An effective design for silk patchwork: black and white
squares, machined or quilted diagonally in green.]
The pieces of material, which are all of the same kind in each quilt,
are cut up into triangles, squares, points, circles, etc., and care
must be taken to have the sizes of the different shapes exactly alike.
The edges are turned in, then the various pieces topsewn together on
the wrong side according to the pattern. It is a good plan to make the
quilt in sections, then unite all together.
[Illustration: To form a padded quilt.]
A quilt of this kind must have a lining, and if wanted to give
additional warmth an interlining of some kind. Cotton wadding, strips
of old white flannel, or any colour which will not run in the washing,
sewn together. Old woollen underwear _thoroughly_ washed and with worn
pieces cut away, can be made use of, as well as light colour tweeds,
etc., but all pieces must be lightly sewn together with flat seams,
then tacked on the lining. See that this lining fits the quilt exactly,
turn in the edges of both, tack together, then machine stitch or sew
the edges together. Blanket stitch may be worked over the edge with
coarse coloured silk, embroidery thread, or No. 5 “Peri-Lusta.”
[Illustration: A diagram showing a two-colour star design.]
The quilt is now ready for the “quilting,” without which it would
not be complete. This is done on the sewing machine if one be at
hand, otherwise hand-sewing with coloured thread, matching or
contrasting with the work, is done in running stitch, with here and
there a backstitch to make it secure. Use a long sewing needle with
“Peri-Lusta” thread, any required colour, No. 8. The lines of sewing
can be formed into diamond shape, squares, herringbone shape, zig-zag,
or any other form liked.
[Sidenote: About Quilting.]
The following designs are easily made, and will only require scraps of
material found lying idle in most households. Old sheets can be made
use of for the lining, or perhaps faded casement curtains, which can be
washed and bleached, or tinted to match.
[Illustration: An appliqué design to border a plain bedspread. This was
carried out in two shades of blue.]
Triangles in Three Colours.
This is intended for scraps of silk too small to allow of variety in
the shape. They are all cut into triangles, and the colours arranged to
form hexagonal shapes. There are only three colours, and of each you
will require two triangles to form the hexagonal shape. Place the six
triangles with a point of each in the centre, no two of same colour
coming together, turn in and topsew the edges of each of two sides
together. Make several of this shape before joining together, then
topsew all the hexagonals, which will be found to fit into each other.
Finish in the manner already directed.
A Variety of the “Star” Shape Design.
The design shown on page 82 is a variety of the “star” shape design,
and three colours are used. Each star has a plain six-sided figure in
the centre. In the design this centre is green. Then each of these
six sides has a triangle in white. The space between the points being
filled with pink, the outer edge of which is, of course, twice as long
as one side of the centre.
Suitable for Silk Patchwork.
The design at the bottom of page 79 is the very latest design, and is
suitable for scraps of silk, the fashionable colours of black and white
being combined in the sample. Blue and white, pink and white, green
and white, or any other colours can be substituted. The border has an
appliqué of roses cut from cretonne. Each motif has its edges turned
under, then tacked to the quilt or bedspread when the quilting is
finished. The edge is worked over with green “Peri-Lusta” of the same
shade as that with which the “quilting” was done, using outline stitch.
To Form a Padded Quilt.
The design at the bottom of page 80 is intended for forming a padded
quilt out of small pieces of silk, sateen, or other material. The
hexagonal shape is used here, and the lining of contrasting colour is
cut to the same size, then five sides of the shape are sewn together,
and the little bag so formed is stuffed with vegetable down, then the
other side sewn up. One side of this can be silk and the other cotton.
The long narrow strips for the sides are formed of the principal
material in strips of the required length, and double the width the
band is to be. Sew the edges together, then stuff with the down through
one end, sew the corners together, and these must be cut at right
angles, so as to give a nice corner. When all the padded pieces are
sewn together, a pretty effect is obtained by going over all the seams
with black cotton in feather-stitch. Vegetable down is cheap, and about
three pounds will be ample for a large size quilt.
[Illustration: A three-colour design for a patch-work quilt, in
diamonds, triangles, and hexagonals.]
Patchwork Appliqué Bedspreads.
Another economical bed-covering is found in the patchwork appliqué. In
this bedspread there is no lining required, and cheap cotton material
serves for the foundation, or old sheets, casement curtains, bolton
sheeting, etc., that have served their purpose can be utilised. They
can be tinted any shade desirable and, of course, must contrast with
the colours chosen for the appliqué. A deep border turned up on
the foundation in the form of a hem is attractive, as seen in the
“Fleur-de-lis” design on page 81. Here the foundation is cream sateen,
and the appliqué with border cut from similar material, but in a deep
shade of pink. The motif is simply outlined with black “Peri-Lusta” in
stem stitch, when attaching to the bedspread.
Repairing Table Linen.
[Illustration: Fig. 1. Plain Darning.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2. Twill Darning.]
[Illustration: Fig. 3. Darning for a Straight Tear or Gash.]
Now more than ever is it absolutely necessary to preserve our linen
household napery, for the price asked for new linen is enormous, owing
to its scarcity, and it is said that in the near future it will be
almost impossible to obtain it at any price.
It may not be generally known that linen is liable to the attack of
minute insects, which bore through it, just as the moth does through
wood, and so weaken it that it soon wears into holes, if precaution is
not taken to prevent them. When storing linen, camphor, lavender, cedar
wood, etc., are just as necessary for its preservation as they are for
woollen goods, and it is said that an apple, hung up till quite dry,
then studded all over with cloves, stuck in up to the head, is very
potent when attached to the top of the drawer of the chest, or hung on
the inside of the door, if the chest be made in this way. All linen
should be well aired before putting away. The repairs should be made
before sending the linen to the laundry, and if it has been stiffened
and glazed, the part requiring mending should be steeped in warm water
to take out the starch, and then dried.
When a part becomes threadbare, the best method of repairing is to
darn it neatly with fine linen thread, obtained by ravelling a piece
of the material. In the case of a table cloth this thread can be got
by ripping the hem at one end and unravelling the edge for a few rows.
Wind the thread on a reel and keep for the repairing of this cloth,
then remake the hem.
Fig. 1 shows the method of doing plain darning, and Fig. 2 shows the
twill darning or plain damask stitch.
Insert the part to be darned in the embroidery tambour with the wrong
side turned towards you, as all darning must be done on this side of
the material. The darning should go well up into the sound part of the
surrounding material, and the stitches should be small and even.
[Sidenote: Repairing Table Linen.]
Run in the lengthwise stitches first, taking care to have them a little
loose, as they will shrink when washed, and leave a small loop of the
thread at each turning, to allow for the taking up of these threads
when working across them. Run the stitches according to the thread of
the material in perfectly straight lines, taking up only two or three
threads and skipping the same number. In alternate rows take up those
threads skipped in the preceding rows.
When the weak portion is covered with the lengthwise stitches and about
half an inch beyond it at each end, work across in the same way, taking
up and leaving alternate stitches, and having the same space between
the rows as at first.
[Illustration: These specimens show some of the patterns that are to be
met with in damask.]
[Sidenote: Darning and Patching.]
When there is a hole in the linen, it is necessary to cut away the worn
edges and make the sides even, then darn as in the preceding case, but
have the threads much closer together, continue each lengthwise thread
across the hole and darn down below it, leave the loop at the end when
turning. (See Fig. 1). The darn when finished should have the threads
so close together as to replace the original piece.
For twilled linen fabric Fig. 2 shows the method of proceeding. Begin
by working the darning stitch lengthwise across the hole in the same
manner as before, then study the material to see how many threads of
the fabric are crossed over to form the twill, and proceed to make the
crossing stitches, passing over two or three threads and taking up one
or two according to the pattern. In each succeeding row advance one or
two threads in the same direction.
Even coloured borders can be very successfully repaired, and a correct
copy of the original design be obtained in this way, using thread
matching in colour with those of the border.
Fig. 3 shows how to repair a rent in the material, or a gash made by a
knife, when the edges fit close together. Place a strip of stiff paper
underneath the opening and tack securely all round. Darn across the
rent, drawing the edges close together, and picking up the threads in
each row which were passed over in the preceding. Leave the small loop
at each turning as before.
[Illustration: Fig. 4. A Hemmed and Stitched Patch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 5. A Top-sewn Patch.]
Patching the Linen.
When the piece to be repaired is too large for darning, it must be cut
out and replaced with a patch of the same material and, if possible,
the patch should be cut from linen which has been in use about the same
length of time as that requiring the mending. If new material must be
used, then let it be somewhat thinner in texture than the other, for
if the same material in a new piece be used the patch would be very
conspicuous.
[Sidenote: Repairing Table Linen.]
Use fine linen thread and a fine sewing needle when patching. Cut the
edges of the hole to a thread of the material, taking away the worn
parts completely, cut the patch to fit over the hole and about an inch
beyond it each way. Turn in the edges of the hole, making a diagonal
slit at each corner, to get a perfect angle and flat seam. Turn in the
edges of the patch and tack on the wrong side evenly over the hole,
turn to the right side and hem the patch to the edge of the hole with
neat small stitches, then backstitch on this right side to the outside
edge of the patch, keeping the lines straight and the angle at each
corner acute. See Fig. 4.
Fig. 5 shows the inset patch which is less noticeable than the
preceding, and suitable for articles which do not have to stand very
frequent use and washing. The edges of the hole are arranged as in the
preceding, the patch is cut to fit it exactly, with its edges turned in
a seam of the same width as that in the hole. Both edges are topsewn
together on the wrong side, then the seam opened out and pressed quite
flat. If neatly done and the pattern evenly matched, a patch of this
kind is scarcely noticeable. The raw edges of the material should be
neatly overcast to prevent ravelling.
Darning Damask Table Linen.
When darning damask linen it is quite possible to imitate the design so
closely as to render the mending invisible. A close study of the design
is necessary to see the number of threads taken up and passed over. In
all cases the best thread to use is the ravelling obtained by picking
out the threads from the edges of the material.
The illustration page shows the most common damask patterns and the
method of darning them. In all cases the lengthwise stitches are worked
as in Fig. 2. The pattern is worked by the crossing stitches, taking up
and passing over a certain number of threads in each successive row.
The samples are worked with two coloured threads, so that the stitches
forming the design can be easily copied.
When doing drawn thread work wind all the pulled threads on a reel, and
keep them for mending linen of all kinds, they are the best threads for
the purpose.
When Cloths are frayed at the Laundry.
Table cloths and serviettes are usually sent to the laundry, even when
the bulk of the washing is done at home, as it is so difficult for the
amateur to get the evenly glazed surface that the professional worker
gives the cloths. The result is that tablecloths soon show signs of
wear and tear, and invariably “go” first down the edges.
As soon as holes and fraying appear at the sides or ends, cut the strip
right off, unless it is quite a small rent and can easily be mended.
As a rule, when the edges once start to go, they do the job pretty
thoroughly. And the best way is to cut off the weak part, before it
tears far into the material, and turn a new hem.
If the cloth is then too narrow to use on the dining table, it can be
widened or lengthened, by applying a deep hem, which can be joined with
fagotting to the cloth. It will be necessary to tack both the cloth
that has been cut and re-hemmed, and the new hem on stiff paper to keep
it even as you work the faggoting.
Mending a Sheet.
Nowadays, when economy must be the watchword with most of us, a great
saving can be effected in our household by paying attention to the
requirements of the contents of the linen chest and remembering the old
proverb, “a stitch in time saves nine.”
When a piece of bedroom or table-napery shows signs of wear in any part
by becoming thin, patching can be avoided by carefully darning the spot
with soft cotton or linen thread, running the stitches well up into the
sound portion surrounding the weak. But when, as in the case of sheets,
a large portion gets thin all over, patching must be resorted to.
The best way to repair a sheet that has become well worn in the centre
is to cut it right up the middle and turn the selvedged edges to the
centre. Tack these in a flat seam, overlapping the edges for somewhat
less than the quarter of an inch (do not turn in the selvedge edge for
there must not be a thick seam), using fine sewing cotton of a soft
make, stitch along the extreme edge of the seam at both sides, or use
the machine if one be handy; in the latter case do not have the tension
tight. If the part now turned to the sides shows any holes or any
portion of it be very thin, it is better to cut this portion out and
replace by a patch.
The piece for this patch should be lighter than the material of the
sheet, but of the same kind, and it is always well to keep pieces of
the old sheets which can no longer be used for this purpose.
[Illustration: Showing the centre of the sheet with selvedge edges in
overlapping seam, and hem-stitching reworked over the seam.]
Cut the patch to the required size by a line in the threads of the
material, allowing two or three inches beyond the weak edges in the
sheet. Turn in the edges neatly along the three sides of the piece
which come in on the sheet, tack the two edges together and spread the
patch in place on the sheet, making it perfectly smooth, now tack round
the three edges. Hem down this side of the patch.
[Illustration: Showing the patch set into the side of the sheet before
hemming, with method of cutting away the worn part under the patch.]
Turn the other side of the sheet and cut away the portion over the
patch, leaving half an inch margin, turn in the edges of the margin,
snipping the corners to make an angle, tack the seam, then hem or
machine-stitch along the edge. The sheet is now ready for hemming the
sides, turn in a half inch hem at each side and sew in place. If the
sheet has been hem-stitched at both ends a few stitches of this hemming
must be undone at each side of the centre seam and then reworked so as
to preserve the pattern and give a neat finish to the work.