This shows some handsome Hardanger patterns, also Natural
Designs in Cross-stitch for Violets, Cyclamen, Creeping
Jenny, Nasturtiums, Daisies, Roses, Fern, Daffodils, Clover,
Cherries, and Wild Birds. The book is uniform in style and
price with “Needlework Economies,” and issued by the same
publishers.
Utilizing Partly-Worn Garments.
Garments are often discarded as being of no use, just because they are
worn in certain parts, whereas a little thought and careful cutting
will often transform them into something quite useful. It is often
possible, for instance, to make garments for the little ones by using
the least worn portions of larger sized clothes. Partly worn woollen
vests can be admirably re-made into babies’ pants.
To make these take the old vest and cut along the line A B, shown on
the little diagram. This cuts away the most worn part of the garment.
Curve out at the bottom, along the lines C D and E F.
The stitches required in the little garments are very simple. Join
by seaming together the edges from D to E. Turn down a fold of about
½-inch round the curved portions, and herringbone or machine-stitch. At
the top, turn down a hem of 1 inch, and stitch in the same way. Make
two eyelet holes in the back of this, and insert a draw-string. A cosy
little garment for baby is the result.
[Illustration: The original garment and what it eventually becomes. The
lines and lettering show where the cutting is done.]
A Use for Old Stockings.
A delightfully warm pair of bloomers for a little girl of 5 or 6 can
be made from the legs of winter stockings, the feet of which are too
worn for further mending. Two pairs are needed. First cut off the legs
just above the darns on the heel, then cut up the back seam and lay
them open. Now lay your pattern on, and you will probably find that you
can just cut the four pieces, bearing in mind that the stocking will
stretch, so can be cut considerably narrower than ordinary material.
When the seams are machined up (once stitching is quite sufficient),
and a hem, wide enough for elastic to be run in, made at the waist and
bottom of the legs, you have as comfortable and cosy a garment as you
could wish for. If the legs of the stockings are hardly wide enough
for your pattern, corners can easily be cut from the ankle or front of
the foot, and joined on to each piece. This sounds very lumpy, but the
seams can be machined quite narrow (you find they don’t fray out at
all), and being of wool are perfectly soft, and will not be noticed in
the wearing.
Grandma was cutting out new garments from old, and her
little grand-daughter was an interested spectator.
“Grandma,” remarked Mollie, “You do cut and contrive, don’t
you?”
“No,” said Grandma, “first I contrive, and then I cut.”
Collars for Cold Days.
Furs are a very expensive item at the best of times, and increasingly
so just now. Yet some additional warmth at the throat and neck is very
necessary in the cold weather. The difficulty is admirably settled in
the collars here shown. Besides being warmer, they are a change from an
ordinary scarf, and with a careful choice of colour, can give a very
stylish finish to any coat.
A Collar with very little shaping.
This nicely fitting collar is worked in plain knitting with very little
shaping, and is afterwards given a fur-like appearance by means of a
Teazle Brush.
Materials required.
3 oz. Teazle Wool. Two No. 8 Celluloid Knitting Needles. A large button
mould. Two or three dress-fasteners.
This Collar should be worked at a tension to produce about 6 stitches
and 12 rows to the inch.
Cast on 45 stitches.
Work 8 rows in plain knitting.
* _9th Row._—K 5, turn.
_10th Row._—K 5.
[Illustration: A COLLAR WITH LITTLE SHAPING.]
[Illustration: A SAILOR-SHAPED COLLAR.]
_11th Row._—K 5, lift up the stitch before the next and knit it
together with the next stitch (thereby preventing a hole), K 4, turn.
_12th Row._—K 10.
_13th Row._—K 10, lift up the stitch before the next and knit it
together with the next stitch, K 4, turn.
_14th Row._—K 15.
Continue in this manner, knitting in 5 extra stitches every alternate
row, until all the 45 stitches are on one row again *.
Knit without shaping until the shortest side measures 9 inches.
Finish at the wide edge, then repeat from * to * once.
Knit 9 rows without shaping, then repeat again from * to *.
Knit 9 inches without shaping. Repeat from * to * once more.
Knit 8 rows without shaping. Cast off.
The Button.
Cast on 3 stitches.
Knitting plain, increase once at the beginning of each row until 15
stitches are on the needle.
Knit 6 rows without shaping. Then decrease once at the beginning of
each row until only 3 stitches remain. Cast off.
Raise the surface of each piece lightly with a Teazle Brush, until a
fluffy effect is obtained.
[Sidenote: To Save the Cost of Fur.]
Cover the button-mould with the small round of knitting and sew it on
the right front. Sew dress-fasteners in place on to each front.
If required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen.
A Pretty Sailor Collar.
This sailor shaped collar is a stylish addition to any coat, while at
the same time giving the extra warmth so necessary during cold winter
days. Worked in plain knitting the shaping will be found quite easy to
follow.
Materials required.
3½ oz. Teazle Wool. Two No. 8 Celluloid Knitting Needles. A large
button mould. Two or three dress-fasteners.
This Collar should be worked at a tension to produce about 6 stitches
and 12 rows to the inch.
Commencing along the lower edge at the back of the collar, cast on 126
stitches.
Knitting plain, decrease once at the beginning and end of every 12th
row until 4 stitches have been decreased at each side (leaving 118
stitches in the row).
Then increase once at the beginning and end of every 14th row until two
increasings have been made at each side, making 122 stitches on the
needle, and 76 rows (6½ inches) from the commencement.
The stitches now require to be divided for the neck opening as
follows:—K 42, cast off 38, K 42. On the last 42 stitches, continue
for the first shoulder piece as follows:—On the outside edge continue
increasing once every 14th row, while at the neck edge, decreasing once
every 2nd row until 6 stitches are decreased, then once every following
12th row until 3 more stitches have been decreased.
Knit back to the neck edge then, continuing to decrease once (at
the neck) in every 12th row, shape for the front and shoulder as
follows:—Knit to within 5 stitches of the shoulder edge, turn and knit
back.
Knit to within 5 stitches from the end of the previous row (_i.e._, 10
stitches from the shoulder edge), turn and knit back.
* Knit to within 5 stitches of the end of the last row, turn and knit
back. Repeat from * until only 5 stitches remain in the last short row.
In the next row the stitches require to be all knitted into one row
again, but to prevent little holes from appearing at the turnings
of the short rows a loop from the row below should be lifted up and
knitted together with the next stitch above the turning.
Knit 8 rows without shaping. Cast off.
Join up the wool again at the neck where the 42 stitches were left,
then work the second shoulder on these stitches to correspond with the
first.
The Button.
Cast on 3 stitches.
Knitting plain, increase once at the beginning of each row until 15
stitches are on the needle.
Knit 6 rows without shaping. Then decrease once at the beginning of
each row until only 3 stitches remain. Cast off.
Raise the surface of each piece lightly with a Teazle brush until a
fluffy effect is obtained. Cover the button mould with the small round
of knitting and sew it on the right front. Sew dress-fasteners in place
on each front.
If required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen.
To Freshen a Last Season’s Jersey.
It is always the neck and wrist edges that show the first signs of wear
on a knitted sports coat or jersey, and often a garment is discarded as
done for just because these parts are shabby or out-of-date.
Have you ever thought of knitting an entirely fresh set of collar and
cuffs to replace the soiled parts, or to be added to a collarless
jersey or coat? The existing collar and cuffs can quite easily be cut
away and the raw edges neatly buttonholed with wool before sewing on
the new set.
[Illustration]
You will probably not be successful in getting wool the exact colour
of your jersey, so it will be best to use a striking contrast, such as
purple on a pale blue jersey, or emerald green on a white one; or if
you already have two colours in the jersey, or it is of a specially
brightly-hued tint, black makes a pleasing contrast. And this year
particularly contrasts of colour are very much in vogue, so that your
re-modelled jersey will be quite fashionable.
Here is a practical little set that you will find quite easy to make.
The Collar.
This is of the ever-popular sailor shape that will be quite easily
adapted to most garments.
“Sirdar” Sports Wool has been used for the making on No. 9 bone
needles; or a 5-ply “Sirdar” Scotch Fingering would work up at a
similar tension. Three ounces of wool will be sufficient for the set.
Abbreviations Used.
K = knit; P = purl; N = narrow (k two st together); st = stitch or
stitches.
Commence from the back edge and cast on 78 st.
K 17 rows plain.
_18th Row._—K 8, P to 8 st from the end of the row, K 8.
_19th Row._—Knit plain.
Repeat the 18th and 19th rows twice.
_24th Row._—K 8, P 4, * K 6, P 6, repeat from * 3 times, K 6, P 4, K 8.
_25th Row_—K 12, * P 6, K 6, repeat from * 3 times, P 6, K 12.
Repeat the 24th and 25th rows once.
_28th Row._—K 8, P 10, * K 6, P 6, repeat from * twice, K 6, P 10, K 8.
_29th Row._—K 18, * P 6, K 6, repeat from * twice, P 6, K 18.
Repeat the 28th and 29th rows once.
Repeat from the 24th row once, and then from the 24th to the 27th row
once. This completes the pattern.