This is full of beautiful ideas for table cloths, toilet
covers, curtain tops, sideboard cloths, tea cosies, dressing
table runners. Uniform with this volume in style and price,
and issued by the same publishers.
A Camisole Yoke of Embroidered Filet Net and Crochet.
Machine-made filet net was used in making this pretty yoke, on which
the trefoil is worked in darning stitch with Tenax embroidery silk in
a moss-rose shade of pink. Other lovely shades can be had in the Tenax
silk, and blue, green, or mauve will answer quite as well. The shape is
cut out from the net, allowing two meshes for a margin at all edges.
[Illustration: From this diagram the Shamrock Design can be worked in
darning.]
Using No. 70 Peri-Lusta crochet cotton, overcast the two rows of meshes
left as a margin with an overcasting through each mesh, then with a No.
5 crochet hook work a row of d c all round the edges, 2 d c into each
mesh.
Around the edge of the sleeve part, neck, and fronts of the yoke, work
a row of 9 ch loops, 1 into every 4th d c.
Then into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice.
The trefoil is then worked in simple darning stitch. Have the wrong
side turned towards you while doing the embroidery, as all fastenings
of the thread must be made on this side.
The trefoil can readily be copied from the diagram.
[Illustration: This kind of trimming would also be pretty for a Blouse
or Jumper.]
A Pretty Camisole Yoke.
Use No. 70 Peri-Lusta Crochet for this pretty yoke.
Form 5 ch into a ring, into which put 8 d c, and close the row with a s
c into the 1st d c, 6 ch 1 tr into next d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each d c, 3
ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch to close a row of 8 spaces.
_3rd Row._—5 d c into each sp.
_4th Row._—7 ch, 1 long tr into the 1st ch (thread 3 times over the
needle)—the 7 ch stands for a long tr—work off the loops of the long
tr, two at a time, but retain the last on the needle; make another long
tr through the same ch stitch, work off as before, then work off all
the loops together. Make 7 ch, and repeat the 2 long tr through the
1st of the 7 ch, 1 ch, 1 d c into the d c over the next tr in the row
below, repeat this long tr loop into the d c over each tr (8 loops).
_5th Row._—6 ch, bring these up behind the 1st loop and fasten with a d
c on centre of the loop, 10 ch 1 d c into centre of each loop.
_6th Row._—12 d c over each 10 ch.
_7th Row._—10 ch, 6 triple tr into the d c on centre of 1st loop below,
3 ch between the trs, * 10 ch, 1 d c over the d c on centre of next
loop, 10 ch 6 triple tr with 3 ch between into the d c over centre of
next loop, and repeat from *.
_8th Row._—12 d c over each 10 ch, over each 3 ch put 1 d c 7 ch 1 d c.
To Join the Motifs.
[Illustration: Twenty-three motifs are required for this yoke.]
Work the last row to the 3rd group of picots, form 2 of the picots as
before; for the 3rd picot make only 2 ch, join to the 3rd picot on
preceding motif with a d c, make 2 ch, then continue on to next picot
on the motif in hands, and join the next two in the same way; 12 d
c over next 10 ch, 6 ch 1 d c into the d c between the two bars on
preceding motif after the joining, come back on the 6 ch with 2 ch, 1 d
c over the centre of the 6 ch, 3 ch, 12 d c over next chs on the motif,
then join next 3 picots as before and finish off the motif.
The extension of the front at each side is formed of a motif and the
point. For the point, make the ring as in the centre of the motif, then
6 ch 1 tr into the 1st d c, 3 ch 1 tr into each of next 2 d c, turn.
_2nd Row._—9 d c into 1st loop, 5 d c into each of next two, turn, and
put three of the long tr loops into the d c’s over the trs in the same
manner as in the motif.
_4th Row._—Turn, 10 ch, 1 d c into top of long tr loop; put the 6
triple trs into the d c’s as before with the 3 ch between and the two
10 ch loops.
_5th Row._—Make the picots and d c’s as in the motif, joining to the 2
lower groups of triple trs as before.
There are 23 motifs in all required, 4 for each front, 5 for the back,
4 for each shoulder and the two extensions.
To Re-sole Cashmere Stockings.
Stockings re-soled according to the following directions can be worn
with slippers, and will be found comfortable.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
Place the stocking as shown in Fig. 1, cut off the sole at the dotted
line a—b; then cut off the toe at the line c—d. As the heel of the
sole piece will not lie flat it must be slit, until, when laid out, it
resembles fig. 2. Cut pieces to these patterns from the leg of another
stocking, allowing turnings as follows:
Fig. 1, the toe piece, ½-inch at c—d where it joins the stocking;
fig. 2. ½-inch all round except at the lines a—b, c—b, where ¼-inch
only must be allowed. If the stocking is short this can be remedied
by leaving the extra length required at fig. 1, a, and fig. 2, d, in
addition to the turnings previously mentioned.
Machine the new toe piece to the stocking at c—d (fig. 1), open and
press the seam. Machine a—b to b—c, of the sole piece (fig. 2), open
and press the seam. Machine this new sole to the stocking, open and
press the seam. Fasten down all seams with small slip stitches.
It is advisable to use mercerised cotton or silk, and to leave the
tension of the machine rather slack.
Three Pretty Aprons.
In a Christmas parcel sent to me from Italy this year, I found two of
the dearest little aprons I have ever seen—much less owned.
[Illustration: AN EASILY SLIPPED-ON APRON.]
They were so very unusual and yet so simple of make, that I feel every
girl who is fond of aprons would love to have one. To these two I have
added one other, equally simple, and which costs but a few pence all
told.
An Easily-Slipped-on Apron.
The first one of the three is one of the Italian ones, and is made of
two yards of ordinary kitchen roller towel. This particular one is made
from unbleached linen, utterly free from coloured stripes or borders.
From a two yard length of towelling, cut off a strip ten inches long,
which will be used for the waistband.
At one end of the long length make a three inch hem, this being the
front.
Now lay this strip on the table, and measuring 39 inches from the hem,
make a dot with a lead pencil, and take this dot as the centre of a
circle 33 inches in circumference, which also mark out with the pencil
with the help of a compass. Next cut out this circle and neatly turn
in the raw edge, making a tiny hem. At the back of the apron, that is
the end unhemmed, make three pleats—one box pleat in the centre and two
outward turning ones on either side of the centre pleat.
Cut the ten inch strip into two 5 inch ones, and join in the middle to
form a long band. Fold this neatly in the middle and point one end,
letting the other end be straight.
Join to the back of the apron and stitch on firmly by machine. Put a
fastening in the form of a button and button-hole, or hook and eye, or
patent fastener, on each end of the belt, to complete the apron.
Slip the head through the circular opening and let the apron fall on to
the shoulders, and join the waistband in the front, and there you have
the simplest and quickest made apron one could possibly imagine.
The decoration on my little apron consists of a design of three
conventional red roses with green leaves and stalk, separated by 5
graduated dots, the largest being in the middle. This occurs across the
foot of the apron, about half an inch from the front hem, and again
around the neck, but three inches from the edge of the circle. Right
round the circle is a line of stitching in brown silk, then a row of
green French knots, and then another line of brown, making a narrow
band.
In the centre of the belt is a large button covered in linen, and a
single red rose, minus the stalk, worked on it.
An Apron with Smocking.
[Illustration: AN APRON WITH SMOCKING AND RICHELIEU EMBROIDERY.]
The second apron is also Italian, but this one is more suitable for
needlework or knitting, when one’s frock is apt to pick up pieces of
thread or fluff from the wool. It is easily made from a piece of white
alpaca, 22 inches long by 27 inches wide. A straight piece of material
is used, and the edges are scalloped in three inch wide scallops. Down
both sides and along the bottom there is embroidered in white silk, a
design of leaves, with a centre flower worked in Richelieu openwork,
and the effect of this on the alpaca is really very beautiful.
At the top the apron is narrowed by means of three groups of honeycomb
or diamond smocking, terminating in points. A tiny pocket on the right
hand side has also a little smocking at the base to correspond. This
pocket is made from a 6 inch square of the material and is fastened to
the apron by means of feather-stitching.
The band consists of a piece of alpaca, one yard long and about an inch
wide. This band is stitched all around by machine.
A Pleated Work Apron.
[Illustration: A PLEATED APRON.]
Last of all comes the little odd apron, but I should not be at all
surprised if many of you did not prefer it to either of the others.
For this, one yard of zephyr is needed in a pretty check or plaid
design, and a quarter of a yard of plain zephyr to match or tone in
colour. One of the many that I have made was of white zephyr, with a
plaid design of pale blue and brown. To go with this I chose a plain
chocolate brown, and it really looked exceedingly pretty when finished.
From the yard of check material cut a strip three inches wide along the
selvedge. Then from the remaining piece, cut a strip six inches wide on
the width of the material. This will leave a piece 27 inches wide and
30 long. Most zephyrs run 30 inches wide in the single width.
Lay the material flat on the table and turn down a narrow hem, where
the selvedge has been cut off, also making a hem the selvedge side as
well. Then take two corners of the square and join them together to
form a mitre, being very careful to match the design of the material.
This forms a pocket, which is useful for holding anything. Next cut the
plain material into three strips of 3 inches each, and join into one
long piece. Then the 6 inch piece of checked zephyr should be cut into
two pieces, each measuring 3 inches wide, and also joined into one long
strip.
This leaves you with one long strip of plain, one middle-sized piece of
check, and one shorter strip of check.
Take the short piece of check, which measures just a yard long, and cut
off a piece of plain one inch shorter. Lay the plain material on top
of the check, and tack them together with a line of thread down the
centre. Fold the check material over the plain to form a narrow border
either side, and stitch with machine. Leave one end of this band rough,
and the other end round off, continuing the little border the same as
the sides.
From the 60-inch strip of check, cut off a yard length, and the same
from the plain, proceeding exactly as before, only finishing off one
end quite straight. This makes the shoulder straps and band of the
apron, and should leave two strips of material, one check measuring
24 inches and one plain measuring 18 inches. This latter cut into two
strips one-and-a-half inches wide, and join into one strip again. Turn
down either side of this strip to make a band, and sew along the top
edge of the pocket, slanting each end to make a pretty finish.
When this is done, take a stitch with a needle through the centre of
the pocket and the apron, and this prevents it from gaping.
Take the top of the apron next and lay in twelve half inch tucks, six
going one way and six the reverse, but both facing in towards the
centre of the apron. Before doing this, turn down the rough edge to
make a neat heading. Sew on the two straps at either end of the top.
From the remaining piece of zephyr, cut a strip one-and-a-half inches
wide and the length of the top of the apron bib. Turn in each side and
both ends, and stitch across the bib top to cover the straps.
To finish the apron, work a buttonhole in the rounded end of one of the
strings, and sew a button on the other strap. Then take an iron and
pleat the whole apron from top to bottom in half-inch pleats, using the
stitched pleats of the bib as a guide.
When wearing the apron the straps should go over the shoulders and
cross at the back, and come round the waist and button in the centre
front.
The description of this apron may sound a little difficult, but it is
really simplicity itself, and very quickly made, besides being very
inexpensive.