Preface.
War is a hard, stern teacher, and its lessons are bitter in the
learning; yet some of its teaching we badly needed—and not the
least important of its many lessons is the one it inculcated on the
criminality of waste.
To so many of us “waste” was a word with a comparative meaning. What
was waste in one woman was not necessarily waste in another, we argued.
It was wrong for the factory girl to let her skirts drop off her for
lack of mending; but not wrong for better-off women to discard their
clothes directly they showed the least sign of wear, because they
could afford to buy more, we said; and, besides, it made it good for
trade—that was a favourite argument used by the extravagant to excuse
their wanton waste.
But we have all learnt the value of economy of recent years: and
we have seen how the saving and thrift of individuals may mean the
salvation of the State. It will be a long time before we can ever
return to that condition of easy-going plenty that we knew before the
war. In any case the cost of all commodities will remain higher in
price. The woman who can utilize oddments and make things with her own
hands is the woman who will be making money, as she will be supplying
one of the most expensive items of modern times—personal labour. The
hints in this book are intended as suggestions, which can be developed
in many new directions.
Part I.
Dress Economies.
The Brassiere.
The Brassiere, or bust bodice, is an essential garment for those who
wish to keep the form neat in appearance now when the low cut corset
is so much in vogue. It has the great advantage of correcting round
shoulders in those who are inclined to stoop when walking, and prevents
that ugly ridge so often seen in the back of the coat or blouse caused
by the top of the corset.
[Illustration: The Crochet Trimming gives a pretty finish.]
They are so very easily made that every woman and girl should make as
many as she requires, for they are expensive articles to buy, and the
garments one makes for one’s self are likely to outlast three or four
of the bought kind and this, too, at about one-third the cost.
[Illustration: This Section of the Front shows the actual size of the
Crochet.]
The pattern for the Brassiere shown here is in three parts, the front,
side-front and back. Half a yard of 36 inch wide linen or cambric is
sufficient. The material used must be strong but fine, and linen is, of
course, the best for wearing qualities.
Having cut out the sections, join all seams with a row of stitching
less than a quarter of an inch from the edge, open out the seams flat
and cover each with a casing made by a strip of the linen with the edge
turned inwards, each should then be half an inch wide. Stitch close to
the edge at each side. The three centre casings have buttonholes worked
in the centre of the casing, in an upward direction, each an inch in
length. These are to admit of a strip of whalebone, eight inches in
length and which can readily be removed for washing.
Turn in a narrow hem at each side of the shoulder section and stitch in
place. Make the insertion and place in position on the front, mark the
lines at each side, cut the material along the centre where the various
strips are to be, turn in a narrow hem and stitch all round. Then turn
a hem all round the edge and stitch.
[Sidenote: With an Irish Crochet Insertion.]
With the crochet hook, put a row of 8 ch 1 d c into the edge of the hem
from the lower edge of the back round to the opposite point and around
each armhole. Into each loop put 7 ch 1 d c twice, with 5 ch 1 d c from
loop to loop.
Sew a patent fastener to the top edge of the back, and a long strip of
tape to the lower edge. The tapes are crossed at the back and brought
round to the front to regulate the fit of the brassiere.
The Insertion.
This is the pretty Rose beading in Irish crochet, and is made with
Manlove’s Irish lace thread, No. 50, with a No. 6 crochet hook.
Form 6 ch into a ring.
_1st Row._—6 ch 1 tr into the ring, 3 ch 1 tr into the ring 4 times, 3
ch 1 s c into the 3rd of the 6 ch.
_2nd Row._—1 d c 7 tr 1 d c into each loop.
_3rd Row._—5 ch 1 d c into the d c between the petals in last row.
_4th Row._—1 d c 10 tr 1 d c into each loop.
_5th Row._—Same as 3rd, but 6 ch instead of 5.
_6th Row._—1 d c 12 tr 1 d c into each loop.
_7th Row._—8 ch, picot 5 of them, 3 ch 1 d c into the 3rd tr on 1st
petal in last row; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same
petal; 6 ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 3rd tr on next petal; 6
ch, picot 5 of them, 1 d c into the 9th tr on same petal.
_8th Row._—Turn with 8 ch and repeat the 4 picot loops as in last row,
for 8 rows of the 4 loops.
_16th Row._—Turn with 5 ch, 1 tr into 1st loop, 2 ch 1 tr into each of
the others, turn.
_17th Row._—10 ch 1 d c into the 2nd of the 5 ch at the turning of last
row.
_18th Row._—Repeat the 4 picot loops over the 10 ch and form 5 rows.
Then repeat the 16th and 17th rows and form 8 rows more of the picot
loops.
Make another rose and join to the picot loops in the last row to
correspond with the joining of the first one.
When the front strip is of sufficient length, make the strip for each
shoulder and the front piece, joining each to the loops in the straight
strip.
Make the straightening rows at each side with 1 tr 2 ch into each loop
and petal along the sides, placing the trs so that the chs may form a
straight line.
Work a 2nd row of 2 ch 1 tr into each space of 1st row, then finish
with 3 d c into each space.
Now top-sew the insertion in place and join the shoulders with a flat
“run and fell” seam.
Sew a piece of tape ending with a loop on the point of the front to
fasten the Brassiere to the corset.