If the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is seldom very nicely done;
but those in great towns wash it beyond what is necessary for cleaning,
and by perpetual watering diminish the flavor. When quite clean, if to
be boiled, some salt and a little vinegar should be put to the water to
give firmness; but cod, whiting and haddock, are far better if a little
salted, and kept a day; and if not very hot weather they will be good in
two days.
Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by taking more at a time than
they want for one day, often get it cheap, and that which will hang by
sprinkling, may then be bought to advantage.
The fish must be put into the water while cold, and set to do very
gently, or the outside will break before the inner part be done.
The fishplate on which it is done, may be drawn up to see if it be
ready; it will leave the bone when it is. It should be then immediately
taken out of the water, or it will be woolly. The fishplate should be
set crossways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving, and a clean
cloth should cover the fish to prevent its losing its colour.
Small fish, nicely fried in egg, and crumbs, make a dish of fish far
more elegant than served plain. Great attention should be paid to
garnishing fish; plenty of horseradish, parsley, and lemon.
When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more attended to than
almost any other dish. The liver and roe should be placed on the dish,
so conspicuously that the lady may see them, and help a part to every
one. The sound of the cod, its head, and the head of carp are reckoned
the prime parts; and it is a part of necessary attention to help, or at
least offer some of the best to one’s friends; nor is it any excuse for
the mistress’s negligence, that it is the fashion of the present day for
those who sit at her right or left hand to help the company, which she
must see they do properly.
If salmon is to be dressed, great care is necessary that it be done
enough. No vinegar should be boiled with it.
If fish is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapt in a nice soft
cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. When perfectly dry, wet with
an egg, if the former way, and sprinkle the finest crumbs of bread over
it; then having a thick bottomed fryingpan on the fire, with a large
quantity of lard or dripping boiling hot, plunge the fish into it, and
let it fry middlingly quick, till the colour be a fine brown yellow, and
it be judged ready: if the latter take place first, the cook should draw
the pan to the side of the fire, lest the colour be spoiled. She should
then carefully take it up, and either place it on a large sieve turned
upwards, and to be kept for that purpose only, or on the underside of a
dish, to drain; and if wanted very nice, a sheet of cap paper must be
put to receive the fish, which should look a beautiful colour, and all
the crumbs appear distinct; the fish being free from all grease.
Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or parsley fried, which
must be thus done: when washed and picked, throw it again into clean
water; when the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it
immediately from the water, and instantly it will be green, and crisp,
and must be taken up with a slice. This may be done after the fish is
fried.
If fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned and floured, and put on a
gridiron that is very clean; and when hot, it should be rubbed with a
bit of suet to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled on a
very clear fire, that it may not taste of smoke; and not too near, that
it may not be scorched.
_An excellent imitation of Sturgeon._
Take a fine large, but not an old turkey; pick it most nicely; singe it,
and make it very clean; bone, wash, and dry it; tie it across and
across, with a bit of mat string, washed clean, as they tie sturgeon.
Put into a very nice tin saucepan a quart of water, the same of vinegar,
and of white wine, that is not sweet, and a very large handful of salt.
Let boil, and skim well, then put in the turkey: when done, take it out
and tighten the strings. Let the liquor boil half an hour after, and
when cold put it on the turkey. If salt or vinegar be wanting, add when
cold. This will keep some months. You eat it with oil and vinegar, or
sugar and vinegar. It is more delicate than sturgeon, and makes a pretty
variety, if the real is not to be had. Cover it with fennel when brought
to table.