COLD CREAM.
GALEN, the celebrated physician of Pergamos, in Asia, but who
distinguished himself at Athens, Alexandria, and Rome, about 1700 years
ago, was the inventor of that peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease and
water, which is now distinguished as cold cream in perfumery, and as
_Ceratum Galeni_ in Pharmacy.
The modern formula for cold cream is, however, quite a different thing
to that given in the works of Galen in point of odor and quality,
although substantially the same--grease and water. In perfumery there
are several kinds of cold cream, distinguished by their odor, such as
that of camphor, almond, violet, roses, &c. Cold cream, as made by
English perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at home, but
throughout Europe; the quantity exported, and which can only be reckoned
by jars in hundreds of dozens, and the repeated announcements that may
be seen in the shops on the Continent, in Germany, France, and Italy, of
"Cold Crême Anglaise," is good proof of the estimation in which it is
held.
ROSE COLD CREAM.
Almond oil, 1 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
White wax, }
spermaceti, } each, 1 oz.
Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm.
_Manipulation_.--Into a well-glazed thick porcelain vessel, which
should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable of holding twice
the quantity of cream that is to be made, place the wax and sperm; now
put the jar into a boiling bath of water; when these materials are
melted, add the oil, and again subject the whole to heat until the
flocks of wax and sperm are liquefied; now remove the jar and contents,
and set it under a runner containing the rose-water: the runner may be a
tin can, with a small tap at the bottom, the same as used for the
manufacture of milk of roses. A stirrer must be provided, made of
lancewood, flat, and perforated with holes the size of a sixpence,
resembling in form a large palette-knife. As soon as the rose-water is
set running, the cream must be kept agitated until the whole of the
water has passed into it; now and then the flow of water must be
stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down,
and incorporated with that which remains fluid. When the whole of the
water has been incorporated, the cream will be cool enough to pour into
the jars for sale; at that time the otto of rose is to be added. The
reason for the perfume being put in at the last moment is obvious--the
heat and subsequent agitation would cause unnecessary loss by
evaporation. Cold cream made in this way sets quite firmly in the jars
into which it is poured, and retains "a face" resembling pure wax,
although one-half is water retained in the interstices of the cream.
When the pots are well glazed, it will keep good for one or two years.
If desired for exportation to the East or West Indies, it should always
be sent out in stoppered bottles.
COLD CREAM OF ALMONDS
Is prepared precisely as the above; but in place of otto of roses otto
of almonds is used.
VIOLET COLD CREAM.
Huile violette, 1 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
Wax and spermaceti, each, 1 oz.
Otto of almonds, 5 drops.
VIOLET COLD CREAM. IMITATION.
Almond oil, 3/4 lb.
Huile cassie, 1/4 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
Sperm and wax, 1 oz.
Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm.
This is an elegant and economical preparation, generally admired.
TUBEREUSE, JASMINE, AND FLEUR D'ORANGE COLD CREAMS.
Are prepared in similar manner to violet (first form); they are all very
exquisite preparations, but as they _cost_ more than rose cold cream,
perfumers are not much inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter.
CAMPHOR COLD CREAM. (_Otherwise Camphor Ice_.)
Almond oil, 1 lb.
Rose-water, 1 lb.
Wax and Spermaceti, 1 oz.
Camphor, 2 oz.
Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm.
Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the oil, then manipulate as for
cold cream of roses.
CUCUMBER COLD CREAM. (_Crême de Concombre_.)
Almond oil, 1 lb.
Green oil, 1 oz.
Juice of cucumber, 1 lb.
Wax and sperm, each, 1 oz.
Otto of neroli, 1/4 drachm.
The cucumber juice is readily obtained by subjecting the fruit to
pressure in the ordinary tincture press. It must be raised to a
temperature high enough to coagulate the small portion of albumen which
it contains, and then strained through fine linen, as the heat is
detrimental to the odor on account of the great volatility of the otto
of cucumber. The following method may be adopted with advantage:--Slice
the fruit very fine with a cucumber-cutter, and place them in the oil;
after remaining together for twenty-four hours, repeat the operation,
using fresh fruit in the strained oil; no warmth is necessary, or at
most, not more than a summer heat; then proceed to make the cold cream
in the usual manner, using the almond oil thus odorized, the rose-water,
and other ingredients in the regular way, perfuming, if necessary, with
a little neroli.
Another and commoner preparation of cucumber is found among the
Parisians, which is lard simply scented with the juice from the fruit,
thus:--The lard is liquefied by heat in a vessel subject to a
water-bath; the cucumber juice is then stirred well into it; the vessel
containing the ingredients is now placed in a quiet situation to cool.
The lard will rise to the surface, and when cold must be removed from
the fluid juice; the same manipulation being repeated as often as
required, according to the strength of odor of the fruit desired in the
grease.
PIVERS' POMADE OF CUCUMBER.
Benzoinated lard, 6 lbs.
Spermaceti, 2 lbs.
Essence of cucumbers, 1 lb.
Melt the stearine with the lard, then keep it constantly in motion while
it cools, now beat the grease in a mortar, gradually adding the essence
of cucumbers; continue to beat the whole until the spirit is evaporated,
and the pomade is beautifully white.
_Melons_ and other similar fruit will scent grease treated in the same
way. (See "Essence of Cucumbers," p. 204.)
POMADE DIVINE.
Among the thousand and one quack nostrums, pomade divine, like James's
powder, has obtained a reputation far above the most sanguine
expectations of its concoctors. This article strictly belongs to the
druggist, being sold as a remedial agent; nevertheless, what _is_ sold
is almost always vended by the perfumer. It is prepared thus:--
Spermaceti, 1/4 lb.
Lard, 1/2 lb.
Almond oil, 3/4 lb.
Gum benzoin, 1/4 lb.
Vanilla beans, 1-1/2 oz.
Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature not
exceeding 90° C. After five or six hours it is fit to strain, and may be
poured into the bottles for sale. (Must be _stamped_ if its medicinal
qualities are stated.)
ALMOND BALLS.
Purified suet, 1 lb.
White wax, 1/2 lb.
Otto of almonds, 1 drachm.
" cloves, 1/4 drachm.
CAMPHOR BALLS.
Purified suet, 1 lb.
White wax, 1/2 lb.
Camphor, 1/4 lb.
Otto of French lavender or rosemary, 1/2 oz.
Both the above articles are sold either white or colored with alkanet
root. When thoroughly melted, the material is cast in a mould; ounce
gallipots with smooth bottoms answer very well for casting in. Some
venders use only large pill-boxes.
CAMPHOR PASTE.
Sweet almond oil, 1/2 lb.
Purified lard, 1/4 lb.
Wax and spermaceti, }
Camphor, } each, 1 oz.
GLYCERINE BALSAM.
White wax, }
Spermaceti, } each, 1 oz.
Almond oil, 1/2 lb.
Glycerine, 2 oz.
Otto of roses, 1/4 drachm.
Of the remedial action of any of the above preparations we cannot here
discuss; in giving the formulæ, it is enough for us that they are sold
by perfumers.
ROSE LIP SALVE.
Almond oil, 1/2 lb.
Spermaceti and wax, each, 2 oz.
Alkanet root, 2 oz.
Otto of roses, 1/4 drachm.
Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated
by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest
on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours;
finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it
cools.
WHITE LIP SALVE.
Almond oil, 1/4 lb.
Wax and Spermaceti, each, 1 oz.
Otto of almonds, 1/2 drachm.
" geranium, 1/4 "
After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron
must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat
radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it
an even face.
COMMON LIP SALVE
Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet
root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve.